Wow! What a great video. So clear and concise, and the extra little tips are a godsend. Well done. I will be watching this video when I change my driveshaft
Well it took a pandemic but I finally managed to make this repair happen. Your video was perfect. Clear and easy to use. Thanks. The passenger side is MUCH easier to access than the driver’s side but otherwise, pretty easy repair.
Thanks for the video. I've literally just finished changing mine using the same replacement driveshaft as you (the price has gone up a bit). It all went smoothly. I did not have to adjust the torsion bar nut, probably because my van is lowered anyway. I gave everything a good soaking in penetrating oil the day before and everything came undone with the help of a breaker bar. Thanks again 👍
Great vid! I do my cv boots once-twice a year. To losen the torsion bars you can put a jack under the arm right next to the nut, then jack it up. when its high enough you can take the whole spindle out, that way you save a lot of time with turning the nuts down and setting the height back to normal.
This. I did mine today, and the Torsion bar nut (down by fuel tank) was seized solid, even after two goes with a blow torch (careful to shield the fuel tank) and a long lever, it wouldn't budge, but eventually the T bar (which the nut travels up/down) fell down and later I realised that with a jack and some pieces of wood I could wind the torsion bar back up and push the little T bar ends back into their holes in the frame. They only go in one way, the smaller end faces FRONT. So if people can't undo the torsion bar, they can still lift it off and lift it back.
Very well explained for the less experienced amongst us. Instead of sticking it in gear to hold the shaft, just pop a screw driver into the brake disk near the calliper. You can also use the screwdriver in the brake disk to rotate the shaft for the hidden bolts then repeat. There isn't enough torque in those bolts to damage the disk.
Very helpful. I’ve done one on a different car and after the blowout that job was I’ve watched your vid Rasti and about to get cracking with hopefully all the steps I need! Thsnks
You only have to unbolt 2 bolts from lower ball joint. Then remove bolts on the gearboxside and central bolt on the hub and you can slide out the whole driveshaft. For the rest good video 👍
Three things to note: 1) For non-ABS brakes models, you might find that the M12 head (for lower ball joint) is actually a 10mm Hex head. 2) For non-ABS brakes models, the driveshaft will have an ABS ring (looks like toothed cog) around the end which goes into the wheel. This can be knocked off with a hammer and screwdriver. 3) For me, the Torsion bar nut (down by fuel tank) was seized solid, even after two goes with a blow torch (being careful to shield the fuel tank) and a long lever, it wouldn't budge, but eventually the T bar (which the nut travels up/down) fell down and later I realised that with a jack and some pieces of wood I could wind the torsion bar back up and push the little T bar ends back into their holes in the frame. They only go in one way, the smaller end faces FRONT. So if people can't undo the torsion bar, they can still lift it off, do the job, then lift it back on again after.
Hi buddy, followed this video last year on my first halfshalf job. I've since bought the same one as you in the video. Question, with the new sealed end, does this affect the length of the 6 bolts that hold it in place? Thanks.
Hey Thanks for this video. It has helped me replace mine. Can I ask what year is your T4? Also did you have any problems with the splines not bedding in as far on the hub end? Mine doesn't seem to go all the way in but the bolt does up tight...without pulling it in more? Any advice woud be greatly appreciated. I can see this video is a couple of years old so maybe your memory won't be as clear... Thanks
Rasti Breza Thanks, good to hear the other one is still working ok, I have just ordered one today as the near side drive shaft has been on the way out for a while, outer boot just split so it is time to get it sorted.
This driver's side CV joint/axle/driveshaft is the most hidden axle I've ever encountered. I tried everything I could... Need to remove this ball joint.
Followed your video, kept the end cap on but it didn't sit correctly, I'm told the end cap should come off, it's a generic shaft for various vehicles, I now have to strip and rebuild, wish I had listened to my gut and not watched this video
Wow! What a great video. So clear and concise, and the extra little tips are a godsend. Well done. I will be watching this video when I change my driveshaft
Well it took a pandemic but I finally managed to make this repair happen. Your video was perfect. Clear and easy to use. Thanks. The passenger side is MUCH easier to access than the driver’s side but otherwise, pretty easy repair.
Driveshaft changed, followed this vid all the way through. I can highly recommend. Brilliant video.
Thanks for the video. I've literally just finished changing mine using the same replacement driveshaft as you (the price has gone up a bit). It all went smoothly. I did not have to adjust the torsion bar nut, probably because my van is lowered anyway. I gave everything a good soaking in penetrating oil the day before and everything came undone with the help of a breaker bar. Thanks again 👍
Great vid!
I do my cv boots once-twice a year. To losen the torsion bars you can put a jack under the arm right next to the nut, then jack it up. when its high enough you can take the whole spindle out, that way you save a lot of time with turning the nuts down and setting the height back to normal.
This. I did mine today, and the Torsion bar nut (down by fuel tank) was seized solid, even after two goes with a blow torch (careful to shield the fuel tank) and a long lever, it wouldn't budge, but eventually the T bar (which the nut travels up/down) fell down and later I realised that with a jack and some pieces of wood I could wind the torsion bar back up and push the little T bar ends back into their holes in the frame. They only go in one way, the smaller end faces FRONT. So if people can't undo the torsion bar, they can still lift it off and lift it back.
Just the job. Gotta do this job and was dreading it. Feel a lot better now watching your video mate
Very well explained for the less experienced amongst us. Instead of sticking it in gear to hold the shaft, just pop a screw driver into the brake disk near the calliper. You can also use the screwdriver in the brake disk to rotate the shaft for the hidden bolts then repeat. There isn't enough torque in those bolts to damage the disk.
Very helpful. I’ve done one on a different car and after the blowout that job was I’ve watched your vid Rasti and about to get cracking with hopefully all the steps I need! Thsnks
Many thank you rastikucirek.
Your clarify video help me something. Congratulations
Cheers
Thank you Rasti. I am going to change my lefthand driveshaft in a few days time, so found your video very useful. KEEP ON TRUCKIN' Bob in Brittany.
did you do it after? how did it go
Video was very helpful, thank you! 👍
Your English is good 👍 needn't worry about it a lot of people that live in England that are native or can't speak it properly anyway 😂
You only have to unbolt 2 bolts from lower ball joint. Then remove bolts on the gearboxside and central bolt on the hub and you can slide out the whole driveshaft. For the rest good video 👍
Nice video, thanks 👍!
thanks for the tip for tierod!
Three things to note:
1) For non-ABS brakes models, you might find that the M12 head (for lower ball joint) is actually a 10mm Hex head.
2) For non-ABS brakes models, the driveshaft will have an ABS ring (looks like toothed cog) around the end which goes into the wheel. This can be knocked off with a hammer and screwdriver.
3) For me, the Torsion bar nut (down by fuel tank) was seized solid, even after two goes with a blow torch (being careful to shield the fuel tank) and a long lever, it wouldn't budge, but eventually the T bar (which the nut travels up/down) fell down and later I realised that with a jack and some pieces of wood I could wind the torsion bar back up and push the little T bar ends back into their holes in the frame. They only go in one way, the smaller end faces FRONT. So if people can't undo the torsion bar, they can still lift it off, do the job, then lift it back on again after.
Hi buddy, followed this video last year on my first halfshalf job. I've since bought the same one as you in the video. Question, with the new sealed end, does this affect the length of the 6 bolts that hold it in place? Thanks.
great vid thanks. Have an mot soon and think it might fail as there is grease coming out.
Hey Thanks for this video. It has helped me replace mine. Can I ask what year is your T4? Also did you have any problems with the splines not bedding in as far on the hub end? Mine doesn't seem to go all the way in but the bolt does up tight...without pulling it in more? Any advice woud be greatly appreciated. I can see this video is a couple of years old so maybe your memory won't be as clear...
Thanks
Loosen the big nuts to the torsion first. That way you release all the tension and dont have to use the jack.
Great work, plenty of detail, looking forward to future videos. How is the new drive shaft performing, any problems?
Rasti Breza Thanks, good to hear the other one is still working ok, I have just ordered one today as the near side drive shaft has been on the way out for a while, outer boot just split so it is time to get it sorted.
Good job
This driver's side CV joint/axle/driveshaft is the most hidden axle I've ever encountered. I tried everything I could... Need to remove this ball joint.
Great video about to attempt this, anyone tried it
yeah with success 👍🏼
The inner cv cover should be removed and cv grease added to the cv joint connecting to the gearbox.
Followed your video, kept the end cap on but it didn't sit correctly, I'm told the end cap should come off, it's a generic shaft for various vehicles, I now have to strip and rebuild, wish I had listened to my gut and not watched this video
J&R driveshafts are rubbish you'll be changing it again soon if it hasnt caused you massive problems already
Yeah. I fitted a new one and now it vibrates as fuck if i drive over 50 m/h.