I use a clicker. But I also use a clear, short "Si" as my markerword instead of "Yes". I find it easier to be consistent wit it. And it is more distinct as I dont use it anywhere else.
I agree, more advice from the last two videos than the last four years of research. Honestly saved what seemed like a horrified rat with seven strikes against her... Now a proud Aussie and proud of her I am.
We just got a 3 month old puppy that has no training it seems. I've been training him to sit and wait but he's very lethargic from where he was before it seems like he just didn't get adequate attention or training and even is very skinny for his breed(great pyrenees and German shepard) and age. We could see his ribs very clearly and his back hip bones were stickin out. These videos are helping me understand what I actually need to help this puppy feel better. Thank you for making these videos!
Okay, I watched your 1st and 2nd Video... The way you deliver, the sincerity the obvious now that you said it... bs... Just took in a 6-Year-old Assie so frightened by everything day 3 in home... the point, applying just what you said in your 2 videos she is now loving, free of people fear, car fear, touch fear, tone fear, etc. I have searched 4 years to find actual good advice and you are the first honest to speak that I have found and including the phycological aspect... I, my Wive and a dog that even for me was her sixth strike thank you.
This is brilliant! Thank you so much, my daughter and I have been completely lost with our 18month old working line German shepherd! He is so intelligent and runs rings around whilst we are constantly trying to catch up! We are just starting your training program from the beginning and hope it will help our relationship with Søren as well helping us communicate with him clearly! He has a very short attention span and we will try to extend that in every training session. We look forward to watching more videos from you and your beautiful dogs! Xx
Thanks so much for the support, Nate. Really like your approach and methodology to training. Do you have any advice from your experience, with establishing the ‘pack leader role’ within the home? I have heard so many mixed messages about this; and as a female with a young daughter, we struggle with an intact male who is very strong willed? I control the food, (really got your message Re toys laying around the house), treats etc and try to ensure he does not sleep on our bed or sofa or pass through doorways before us etc....yet it seems we are still not getting his respect and obedience. Will this develop with better training or is there other ways to establish this role with him? Really appreciate your advice and videos and hope that you and yours are staying safe right now in lockdown.👍☺️
Awesome! If you havent done so already; I would suggest going through my basic obedience series in order. Then progress at the speed your dog is learning at. Cheers! ruclips.net/video/cc8hX4lCGiY/видео.html
Dude started watching your videos your in good shape I can’t even take care of myself let alone a dog life lesson thank you for the influence keep it up
That's the best channel on dog training by far. I have fixed things in my behavior that I'm doing with my dog. Nate describes things in such a clear and understandable way!
@@NateSchoemer sorry if you’ve mentioned this somewhere else, I’m still going through your (excellent) content but, what would your advice be on disciplining your dog when they do things that they’re not supposed to (for example - chew on a cable), I was badly advised to “spank” my puppy with a rolled up paper. I’ve done it 2-3 times, but it breaks my heart and I don’t want to do this ever again (also I can clearly see that my dog looks confused more than anything when I’ve done this). Since I found your channel I’ve come to the understanding that this is not the right way. Some other videos have advised that you “talk” to your dog - trust me, my puppy doesn’t listen or understand me. What would be an effective way to train him to respond to a “No!”?
@@dimitardimitrov3421 if you’ve used some physical correction on your dog, associate with a sound. And you have to correct it while he is doing it, not after he does it, since he wouldn’t understand what he did wrong. An easier way would be to hold his muzzle, say no angrily. Repeat over different times and behaviours that you don’t want him to do and in no time the pup should know that no means a correction. Also, when he understands no, you don’t need to catch his muzzle again. He’ll expect that it’s a correction and act accordingly. That’s how I have taught my puppy, what to do and what not to do. So when I say no, my pup stops whatever he’s doing. Hope that helps.
Great instruction. I’ve done clicker training in the past with my horses, but it’s definitely more inconvenient with a dog because I like to take advantage of any situation to train and I don’t always have the clicker on hand.
Great stuff. I love the hit with a stick and the POW analogies. I explained this to my kids this way and they immediately got it. They are getting really good. Also, I tried filming myself and I found that I am doing 2 things wrong. I am putting another hand gesture in between the verbal and the lure (I think i picked it up before I found your videos and its just another bad habit to break) and I sometimes pair the verbal and gesture when I'm trying to get more training done. Anyway, thanks for the videos and for breaking this down.
So am I to take from this video that the action step is to have some rewards in my hand, and simply do the "yes - reward" spaced at different intervals with the goal to associate the "yes" with getting a reward? And this should be done outside the context of training anything else, like heal or sit? The "yes - reward" conditioning will then be used in all other training?
7:15 Yeah, that’s why I said if you didn’t see the dog do it at that time then you don’t punish the dog because it’s too late and hitting the dog is bad because it will make the dog not listen to you.. not obey you… recall will be very bad and the dog won’t learn when being hit.
My favorite dog training channel by far! You’re professional and engaging and I’m interested from beginning to end! ... other channels, I find myself forwarding and skipping but def not here! Thank you Sir for your knowledge and time !
How does marking for positive or negative behaviour work when you have two dogs in the same vicinity? One dog doing a perfectly acceptable behaviour, and the other dog doing something you want to discourage with a negative mark?
I have a 11 month old cane corso who I’ve been using the word “yes” to since we started training at 4 months. I didn’t realize how beneficial the clicker is. Can I transition to the clicker to make sure I’m more consistent with the “sound” of the marker word?
I watched another of your videos to see if my puppy's marker word was loaded with value and used your advice: I said "Fine" and checked her reaction to it - no lip licking or opening the mouth or something like that. "Damn, I need to load up my marker word" I thought and said "Fine" while feeding her treats. Yeah... *while* as in "at the same time". Okay, I need to try again tomorrow. Go back to the basics a bit. Sigh. Well, I guess sometimes dog training is like that and you feel like you haven't moved forward at all. However, now at least I know where I made a mistake - thanks for your great videos.
So if I have the word fetch (representing go get me that and bring it back to me), and I throw it and the dog goes to get it and brings it to me, I can have a word that basically says "good job" before giving it the treat? Will this work with practice?
(Have posted on FB community as well) Hi Nate, I have a gsd who will turn 4 months on Sept 4th. The breeder handed her over to us (my husband and I) on Day 37. Yes, it's too early, but in India (where am at), unfortunately, there is no strict regulation. Due to this, she did not get a chance to learn from her mom appropriate socialization. With Covid, we are unable to get her to meet people much. Also, the place where we stay, dog friendly folks are hard to find. She is very scared of everything, with age she's becoming curious. A shopping bag scares her (any loud noise-maker). There are only strays around. No other pets in the vicinity for her to have an interaction with. My question is this: 1. How do I get her to come out of the shyness considering the ambiance we are surrounded by? On another note, I watched the Basic Behaviour Training Series. The dogs seem to be amped...mine, once she sits, slides down to a 'down'. (I resort to all kinds of actions to try and get her to move out of down). Treats are another story, she doesn't like one treat for too long. I have run out of options apart from high value treats which she loves. So for me to do the basic Yes and Free seems to be a task. Is this common in the initial stages? (inspite of this, I have taught sit, down, come, however, doesn't seem conditioned yet - I used apple slices as treats which seemed to work at that point of time and she wasn't interested in chicken flavoured biscuits) 2. So my 2nd question is this. What am I doing wrong? Is there hope? Sorry for the long post.
Jump to 7:30 in this video: ruclips.net/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/видео.html Remember, you can also use meal time as training time. Meaning, you use your dogs food for training. If your dog doesn't want to work for the food, no problem. Put the food up and try again at dinner. Once your pup knows that she needs to work for her food, her food motivation will go up. :)
@@NateSchoemer Thank you for taking time out to reply. I seemed to have missed that FAQ video. Will look into it. Also, I have gone through tons of videos but none compares to your videos. Thank you for making them. They are very easy to understand. Best wishes.
Hey Nate. I'm working with my 9 month old GSD who is incredibly smart and thankfully catches on quickly. He's the most energetic dog I've ever owned (and I have a heeler) and we've been having some issues as I think he needs a job. I found your channel and am starting for the very beginning, my question to you is how long should I work on a specific skill before moving on?
To begin training a dog, I prioritize teaching the main communication channels which are engagement training, luring, and leash pressure. Once the dog has a good understanding of these, I develop physical cues that guarantee the behavior of each command. After this, I start adding commands for multiple exercises, similar to what you can see in this video (ruclips.net/video/g9n1W_cP8fg/видео.html). Initially, we use continual reinforcement, but once the dog can perform the command on a verbal cue alone, we move to stage 2 in the reward process which you can learn about in this video (ruclips.net/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/видео.html). From there, training is all about bonding with the dog and keeping them happy and balanced. I hope this explanation is clear and helpful. Cheers!
I just want to say that your training videos are amazing and what you are doing as a trainer is wonderful and so helpful. I do want to mention that Pavlov's real experiments were incredibly gruesome and by today's standards very cruel. Many of Pavlov's dogs died due to trauma from surgeries and starvation.
Hello i just found this and im a little confused on the video heres my questions: Do you need to train them something then do the sound or you need to familiarize it with the sound first then start training?
I learn a lot from your videos and have understood the advantage of the clicker over verbal marker however I struggle handling the leash, treat and the clicker all at a time... So can you please help with handling all three with efficiency
Hi Ghansham, and great question. This is why I use my voice as a marker because it can be difficult to hold the leash, treat, and the clicker while training a dog. Try using verbal markers instead. I think that will make the process much easier for you. :)
Hi Nate, Love the videos very clear and direct. Quick question, Is it possible to use both the clicker and the verbal or is that too confusing for the dog? Thanks
I have been finding your videos so helpful while starting training with my 8 week old German Shepherd! Any suggestions for training an ESA for anxiety? Sometimes I have such bad panic attacks I freeze and can’t speak, I’d like to get him to eventually notice these and know to comfort without me having to verbally call him. Any advice helps, Thanks! 💛
Thanks! Yes, a command can be physical or verbal. Follow the step by step process in this video and when you get to the step of adding the command, use the physical cue as the command. Video: ruclips.net/video/XQRgci18tvY/видео.html Here's a section from my manual that may help: This process is the same even if you want to teach a service dog to perform a specific command based on an involuntary human behavior conducted by the person with the disability. For example, you’re training a service dog to nudge his handler when his handler reaches high levels of stress, such as with a veteran suffering from PTSD. First you would need to figure out what the veteran’s involuntary behavior is. For this example, we will say that the veteran looks up and starts to breathe heavily. Once we know this, then that will become the command for the behavior. The next step would be to present a physical cue that can get the dog to nudge your leg (which will be transitioned to the veteran later), let’s say tapping your own leg works for this dog. Now the process would go as follows: First look up and breathe heavily (the command). • Then you would tap on your leg to get the dog to nudge your leg (motivate). • Once the dog nudges you, you either give the reward within the first second or you mark and then reward. • You will continue to use the physical cues until the dog beats you to it. Meaning, you look up and breathe heavily and before you tap your leg-the dog is already nudging you. I hope this helps! :)
Just adopted a 4 year old dog. She was rehomed and never really trained. She is showing aggression when i want her to drop something or take away garbage. What do i do to curb this aggression?
Once the dog is conditioned to the markers, then I start using the markers in the training. However, I always like to do 30 seconds or so of engagement training before each session. ruclips.net/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/видео.html
I have a puppy that is 12 weeks olds and we've been working on conditioning training for some time now, but it doesn't seem that he is conditioned yet. Are there dogs that it can take a really long time to train conditioning or am I just missing the signs that he understands?
My guess is that you are pairing the delivery of the reward with the marker (conditioned reinforcer) sound. If you pair your physical with your verbal, the physical will override the verbal. Try filming yourself while you are training to see if you are making this mistake. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my channel, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
I'm curious. IF you start with using a clicker, and after you've solidified the behavior/reward with the clicker and treat, is the dog ALWAYS going to expect the clicker/treat? How much longer after the training has been done, can you begin to remove either/or? Or can you not go back to using a verbal "good job"/"Yes" affirmation ever?
Hi Sager! In the beginning we use continual reinforcement. Meaning, we reward every correct behavior. Once the dog knows the command on the verbal alone, then we start to space out the rewards. In addition, our words mean to our dogs what they predict. If a click predicts a reward, then that is what the click means to the dog. If the click stops predicting a reward, then the click will quickly loose the value that it once had to the dog. I've started dogs on clickers before and later transitioned them to the word "yes" without any issues. Check out this video on spacing out rewards: ruclips.net/video/a2OBoptftYs/видео.html Lastly, check out this video and jump to 39:00 where I discuss markers: ruclips.net/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/видео.html I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
Hi Nate. I have two questions: My dog is very confident exploring outside the house but very fearful of the small vacuum inside the house. I don’t know how to hold her confidence. Every time I start up the vacuum so the house gets cleaned, she gets nervous and unsettle even inside the crate.
Usually for one day, maybe two at the most. Also, before each session after that, I'll do 15 - 30 seconds of engagement training to get the dog into the right mindset to train. Thanks for the question and for supporting the channel. 😁🙏🐶🐕
@@NateSchoemer my belgian is very easily distracted by other things. If I will be playing with her then she sees other people walking by then she tries to bite them in their slippers and unintentionaly bites their feet. I am currently focusing on giving her treats whenever she looks at me in the eye or focuses on my voice. I really dont have any idea on how to make my puppy focus on training or even playing. Hoping for some tips from you. I am just a 1st time belgian owner. Thank you.
my dog is conditioned very well to her continuation and terminal marker words, but I really want to switch to a clicker to make it super clear (I have a tendency to do good gooooooood yes yessssss lol) - how do you condition the clicker for both the continuation marker and the terminal marker? (I want 1 click to mean good and 3 clicks to mean yes)
Hello Nate. So glad a found your channel 👏🏻How long should a training session last? I have a one year Anatolian Shepherd, that has very bad genetics and can no longer be a working dog. Is it going to be a challenge to get my dog who lived by sheep to now become a family dog?
Thanks for commenting and supporting the channel. Sorry to hear about the genetic issues you're having with your pup. I would suggest checking out this video. Most of the info applies to adult dogs as well. :) ruclips.net/video/OvdKDE326gs/видео.html
my chocolate lab comes home for the first time at 8 weeks old, and your videos are so helpful! i have a question about the clicker though; are you allowed to use tools like a pen as a clicker to engage that repetition sound, or is it the clicker only?
Hi! Silly question here: i am having trouble knowing what words to use. I understand “yes” for marking a correct behavior. And I’ve thought about using “break” as in you’re done u can go do your own thing now. But ive seen you use “free” as well. Is it ok if i stick to just these two. Or should I use “free” as well and if so how would i use it ?
You can use any words you like. A word only has value based on what it predicts. Jump to 39:00 in this video to learn more about markers: ruclips.net/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/видео.html 😁🐶🐕
Can a dog be trained to multiple people? Meaning can both my wife and I condition the dog to our own markers? I understand the importance of always sounding the same but obviously my "yes" would sound different than my wife's "yes".
Yes, you can train a dog to work with multiple people. Your dog will learn all the markers and commands from each person as long as that person is consistent with their own commands. Cheers! Nate
Hey Nate I’m wondering what you do to show the dog that peeing or pooping is bad to do in the house if you get home and they made an accident. I’m getting a dog in a week and for our last dog we put his face near the mess and told him no and bad boy. Have a nice day!
Below is a simple step-by-step process, involving a crate that's just big enough for the dog to stand up, spin around, and lay down (and not any larger). If the crate is larger, then the puppy would be able to go potty in one end of the crate and then sleep on the other end, which would slow the potty-training process. By having the crate the correct size, this will allow the dog to learn to hold their bladder. When your dog is fully potty trained, a larger crate will be acceptable. There are three crate-training principles to understand: The first guideline for crate-training is that you always want to make the crate a pleasant place for your dog and never a place of punishment, like as a time-out or something of the sort. The second most important guideline is to never put your dog in the crate only when you are leaving the house, or the dog will learn that the crate means that you are leaving, and this can create anxiety and further problems for the crate-training process. The third guideline is to keep your crate next to your bed at night to make it a more comfortable place for your puppy to sleep. List of crate to-dos: • Feed your dog in their crate with the door closed. • Put your dog into the crate randomly throughout the day (even when you are not leaving the house.) • Give your dog treats in the crate. • Have your dog sleep in the crate at night. • If your dog barks or whines in the crate, then directly hit the top of the crate with a metal bowl and this will usually make them quiet. Be sure to say “no” the moment they whine or bark BEFORE hitting the crate. As with any correction, it’s about cause and effect, never personal, so no yelling because you’re angry. This technique works on most dogs. Depending on the age of the dog, we have to consider how long they can hold their bladders. A simple rule to follow is a dog can stay in a crate for as many hours as months they have been alive. For example, a young pup at two months old can stay crated for two hours. Three months, three hours. Four months, four hours. All the way to eight hours being the max time in a crate. After the time in the crate, the puppy is taken out and given a chance to go potty. If they successfully go potty, the dog should be rewarded, perhaps taken on a walk or playing fetch. We try to reinforce that the bathroom break leads to more fun activities (however, when I wake up to potty a puppy in the middle of the night, I won't play after they go potty. I'll let them sniff around for a couple minutes and then I take them back inside). If the puppy doesn't go, then he or she is brought back to the crate. We wait 20 minutes, then repeat the process. The important factor is to make the dog associates going outside with going potty, and that it's something to look forward to. If the puppy happens to go inside the house, you don't need to rush at them yelling. You simply say "no," correct the puppy, then take the pup outside, and reward with positive reinforcement after they go potty. Often people will argue till they are blue in the face that they can teach a dog not to go potty in the house by catching them after the fact. However, out of the ten times they corrected the dog for this behavior one or two of the times they actually caught the dog in the act, and that’s when the dog learned. If the puppy has gone potty in the house, but you did not catch them in the act, then do NOT correct them. You must catch them immediately or else they won't understand. Please see the importance of timing discussed elsewhere in this book. Here’s an analogy I use for explaining this to people: Let’s say that you become a prisoner of war in a foreign country where you don’t speak the same language. You have your little prison cell with your toilet that you use every day with no issues. One day you become bored and you start to carve on the wall. One of the guards sees you carving on the wall and he runs into your cell, yelling at you in a language you don’t understand. They then take your face and shove it into the toilet. Are you going to think that they are shoving your face into the toilet because you used the toilet, or are you going to think they are shoving your face into the toilet because you were carving on the wall? Because that’s what you were doing when they started yelling at you. It is the same for our dogs and our puppies. If your dog or puppy goes to the bathroom in the house and you did not see them go to the bathroom, and the dog starts a different activity, then whatever that activity may be, if you start to yell at your dog during that activity and shove your dog’s face into their own mess, they are going to think that you are shoving their face into their own mess because of the activity they were doing when you started yelling at them. Note: if your puppy goes potty inside their potty-training crate, then it's your fault. Dogs do not go potty where they sleep or eat unless they simply can't hold it. However, if your puppy continues to potty in the crate even though you have been giving them plenty of opportunities to go potty outside, there is a possibility that the puppy has a UTI and should be looked at by your veterinarian. When training your puppy, remember, you want to make the training as fun as possible, creating a fun learning environment that the puppy wants to keep coming back to. Follow the training process as explained earlier in chapter 7: The science to teaching a dog any command. Be sure to work on multiple commands in each session. This makes the training more fun for your puppy and as a side effect, they will learn more quickly.
Thanks for checking out my channel. I would just start from the beginning. Your dog should be able to quickly make the adjustments to the new training. :)
But I did do that to my dog once, I went “you know that training session we did earlier, I really liked that, here’s a reward” because he’s a good boy 😊
Here's a section from my manual that should help: Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker (I like to use the word “yes”). This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay. However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay. In contrast, we have the terminal markers (I like to use the word “free”). These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished).
You would need to have 2 different distinct sounds if you wanted to use both the terminal and continuation marker. If you would like to only use one marker, then I would suggest using the clicker as the terminal marker. You can always build duration using verbal praise as feedback. In fact, this is what many trainers choose to do and you can still get really nice results. :)
Watching this to train my over-reactive dachshund. She also suffers from separation anxiety. She doesn't have the high bed but has a crate for sleeping because my house is extremely tiny
Hi William! I offer private lessons in Los Angeles and Phone Consultations or Facetime/Zoom training for those not in the Los Angeles area. Feel free to email me if you want to schedule a lesson. Thanks! NateSchoemer@gmail.com
Such awesome information. It helped me realize the small inconsistencies/mistakes I’ve been doing that have likely hindered the speed of my dog’s learning.
Hi Nate, We found a young dog in our neighbourhood that was probably abandoned, so she’s going to stay with us. I started her training about 5 days ago, and we already have some results: she is better at walking on a loose leash, she reacts to her name if no serious distraction around, etc. The only problem right now is markers. I thought that it’s the easiest part and don’t really understand what I’m doing wrong. If it’s ok, I attach the video: ruclips.net/video/CBxw70OkE2g/видео.html Here we practise her name (Hel), luring and markers («cen» and «zeu»). She reacts to her name (not perfect, but she does), follows the food but I can’t see any reaction to the markers. Could you point any mistakes? Or should we just continue and wait?
Jump to 4:30 in this video: ruclips.net/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/видео.html Notice how I talk to the dog a little after the marker to give her some additional encouragement. It will also help to make your markers more distinct sounding. Lastly, on a few of them you paired the physical with the verbal. Make those adjustments and add a little more playfulness and you should see better progress. :)
Okay so if the dog isn't going to remember taking a big crap at the front door, will it help to refresh the dogs memory by sticking his nose in it, and saying No?
@@judyives1832 I always thought it was cruel. I wanted to assist by eliminating that old cruel method by asking the question. I hope people will learn and practice the Four Quadrants for teaching their dogs that Nate has mentioned in many of his videos. In my opinion, the FQ is the key to developing a healthy successful relationship and bond. Thank you for the reply, I hope more people will take the time to bond and teach their dogs in a positive manner. I just found this channel and am already a supporter. If you have any methods that have worked for you that are different from Nate's, please share. I love learning from everyone. Lastly, let's help out Nate and get him to 100k.
I use a clicker. But I also use a clear, short "Si" as my markerword instead of "Yes". I find it easier to be consistent wit it. And it is more distinct as I dont use it anywhere else.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. Cheers! :)
Watching this series of videos over and over! Getting my GSD pup in a few weeks and trying to learn as much as I can. :)
Awesome! I hope it's helpful. Cheers!
I’m doing that with my Akita. Pick him up next weekend, I’ve easily watched 20hrs of content so far.
Still got time to rewatch some too. Lol
I agree, more advice from the last two videos than the last four years of research. Honestly saved what seemed like a horrified rat with seven strikes against her... Now a proud Aussie and proud of her I am.
We just got a 3 month old puppy that has no training it seems. I've been training him to sit and wait but he's very lethargic from where he was before it seems like he just didn't get adequate attention or training and even is very skinny for his breed(great pyrenees and German shepard) and age. We could see his ribs very clearly and his back hip bones were stickin out.
These videos are helping me understand what I actually need to help this puppy feel better. Thank you for making these videos!
I'm happy the videos are helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting. :)
Ur discussion is easy to understand and comprehensive. Ty
My pleasure. Thank you! :)
Okay, I watched your 1st and 2nd Video... The way you deliver, the sincerity the obvious now that you said it... bs... Just took in a 6-Year-old Assie so frightened by everything day 3 in home... the point, applying just what you said in your 2 videos she is now loving, free of people fear, car fear, touch fear, tone fear, etc. I have searched 4 years to find actual good advice and you are the first honest to speak that I have found and including the phycological aspect... I, my Wive and a dog that even for me was her sixth strike thank you.
Rescued a 2 year old dog now during COVID and your videos are exactly what we needed... so huge yyeeeeeeaahhssss (3:35) to your channel!! x'D
Thanks Rupert, I really appreciate that and I'm happy the videos are helping! :)
This is brilliant! Thank you so much, my daughter and I have been completely lost with our 18month old working line German shepherd! He is so intelligent and runs rings around whilst we are constantly trying to catch up! We are just starting your training program from the beginning and hope it will help our relationship with Søren as well helping us communicate with him clearly! He has a very short attention span and we will try to extend that in every training session. We look forward to watching more videos from you and your beautiful dogs! Xx
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your kind words. Let me know if you end up having any questions on the training. :)
Thanks so much for the support, Nate. Really like your approach and methodology to training. Do you have any advice from your experience, with establishing the ‘pack leader role’ within the home? I have heard so many mixed messages about this; and as a female with a young daughter, we struggle with an intact male who is very strong willed? I control the food, (really got your message Re toys laying around the house), treats etc and try to ensure he does not sleep on our bed or sofa or pass through doorways before us etc....yet it seems we are still not getting his respect and obedience. Will this develop with better training or is there other ways to establish this role with him? Really appreciate your advice and videos and hope that you and yours are staying safe right now in lockdown.👍☺️
Just wanna say God bless you bro. This info gonna hopefully save a lot of dogs unnecessary cruelty.
Thanks! I appreciate that!
These videos are so helpful. Our family is getting ready to get our first dog and we need lots of help lol!!!
Awesome! If you havent done so already; I would suggest going through my basic obedience series in order. Then progress at the speed your dog is learning at. Cheers! ruclips.net/video/cc8hX4lCGiY/видео.html
First time I understood what clicker training entails!
Excellent explanation!
I have cats though and I a trying to clicker train them!
Thanks! Good luck with the cat training. :)
Dude started watching your videos your in good shape I can’t even take care of myself let alone a dog life lesson thank you for the influence keep it up
That's the best channel on dog training by far. I have fixed things in my behavior that I'm doing with my dog. Nate describes things in such a clear and understandable way!
Thank you, Dimitar! 😁🙏🐕🐾
@@NateSchoemer sorry if you’ve mentioned this somewhere else, I’m still going through your (excellent) content but, what would your advice be on disciplining your dog when they do things that they’re not supposed to (for example - chew on a cable), I was badly advised to “spank” my puppy with a rolled up paper. I’ve done it 2-3 times, but it breaks my heart and I don’t want to do this ever again (also I can clearly see that my dog looks confused more than anything when I’ve done this). Since I found your channel I’ve come to the understanding that this is not the right way. Some other videos have advised that you “talk” to your dog - trust me, my puppy doesn’t listen or understand me. What would be an effective way to train him to respond to a “No!”?
@@dimitardimitrov3421 if you’ve used some physical correction on your dog, associate with a sound. And you have to correct it while he is doing it, not after he does it, since he wouldn’t understand what he did wrong. An easier way would be to hold his muzzle, say no angrily. Repeat over different times and behaviours that you don’t want him to do and in no time the pup should know that no means a correction. Also, when he understands no, you don’t need to catch his muzzle again. He’ll expect that it’s a correction and act accordingly. That’s how I have taught my puppy, what to do and what not to do. So when I say no, my pup stops whatever he’s doing. Hope that helps.
Great instruction. I’ve done clicker training in the past with my horses, but it’s definitely more inconvenient with a dog because I like to take advantage of any situation to train and I don’t always have the clicker on hand.
Love this series! Best training videos I found on RUclips
Awesome! Thank you!
I'm so glad I found your channel, makes so much sense what your saying. Subscribed
Awesome! Thanks, I really appreciate that! :)
Great stuff. I love the hit with a stick and the POW analogies. I explained this to my kids this way and they immediately got it. They are getting really good. Also, I tried filming myself and I found that I am doing 2 things wrong. I am putting another hand gesture in between the verbal and the lure (I think i picked it up before I found your videos and its just another bad habit to break) and I sometimes pair the verbal and gesture when I'm trying to get more training done. Anyway, thanks for the videos and for breaking this down.
Thanks Doug! Yeah, don't feel bad because those are the most common mistakes everyone makes. I even make them on occasions. Lol! :)
Thanks this is useful!!! I'm a part time dog waller who sometimes get puppies as clients who needs basic training.
Awesome! I'm sure this will really help you with your clients. Thanks for the comment! :)
So am I to take from this video that the action step is to have some rewards in my hand, and simply do the "yes - reward" spaced at different intervals with the goal to associate the "yes" with getting a reward? And this should be done outside the context of training anything else, like heal or sit? The "yes - reward" conditioning will then be used in all other training?
7:15 Yeah, that’s why I said if you didn’t see the dog do it at that time then you don’t punish the dog because it’s too late and hitting the dog is bad because it will make the dog not listen to you.. not obey you… recall will be very bad and the dog won’t learn when being hit.
Super clear explanation! Thx
Thank you, Hans! :)
Brilliant explanation of how to begin training. Its worked really well for my puppy. Thank u 😊
Awesome! :)
You channel is my best discovery this year ! Thank you !
Wow, thank you!😁🐶
My favorite dog training channel by far! You’re professional and engaging and I’m interested from beginning to end! ... other channels, I find myself forwarding and skipping but def not here!
Thank you Sir for your knowledge and time !
Awesome! Thank you! I appreciate that. :)
Great video! I've been trying to do the marker and reward together.
How does marking for positive or negative behaviour work when you have two dogs in the same vicinity? One dog doing a perfectly acceptable behaviour, and the other dog doing something you want to discourage with a negative mark?
I have a 11 month old cane corso who I’ve been using the word “yes” to since we started training at 4 months. I didn’t realize how beneficial the clicker is. Can I transition to the clicker to make sure I’m more consistent with the “sound” of the marker word?
Thank you 🙏
Thank you! :)
7:15 what SHOULD I do when I come home and I see my dog has gone to the bathroom? How do I correct that?
Yeeeeeeeaaaaasssss!!!
Great videos!
Thanks, Hunter!
I watched another of your videos to see if my puppy's marker word was loaded with value and used your advice: I said "Fine" and checked her reaction to it - no lip licking or opening the mouth or something like that. "Damn, I need to load up my marker word" I thought and said "Fine" while feeding her treats. Yeah... *while* as in "at the same time".
Okay, I need to try again tomorrow. Go back to the basics a bit. Sigh. Well, I guess sometimes dog training is like that and you feel like you haven't moved forward at all. However, now at least I know where I made a mistake - thanks for your great videos.
So if I have the word fetch (representing go get me that and bring it back to me), and I throw it and the dog goes to get it and brings it to me, I can have a word that basically says "good job" before giving it the treat? Will this work with practice?
Thank you for these videos! ❤ helped me a lot to understand how to train my dog
(Have posted on FB community as well)
Hi Nate, I have a gsd who will turn 4 months on Sept 4th.
The breeder handed her over to us (my husband and I) on Day 37. Yes, it's too early, but in India (where am at), unfortunately, there is no strict regulation.
Due to this, she did not get a chance to learn from her mom appropriate socialization. With Covid, we are unable to get her to meet people much. Also, the place where we stay, dog friendly folks are hard to find.
She is very scared of everything, with age she's becoming curious. A shopping bag scares her (any loud noise-maker). There are only strays around. No other pets in the vicinity for her to have an interaction with. My question is this:
1. How do I get her to come out of the shyness considering the ambiance we are surrounded by?
On another note, I watched the Basic Behaviour Training Series. The dogs seem to be amped...mine, once she sits, slides down to a 'down'. (I resort to all kinds of actions to try and get her to move out of down). Treats are another story, she doesn't like one treat for too long. I have run out of options apart from high value treats which she loves. So for me to do the basic Yes and Free seems to be a task. Is this common in the initial stages? (inspite of this, I have taught sit, down, come, however, doesn't seem conditioned yet - I used apple slices as treats which seemed to work at that point of time and she wasn't interested in chicken flavoured biscuits)
2. So my 2nd question is this. What am I doing wrong? Is there hope?
Sorry for the long post.
Jump to 7:30 in this video: ruclips.net/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/видео.html Remember, you can also use meal time as training time. Meaning, you use your dogs food for training. If your dog doesn't want to work for the food, no problem. Put the food up and try again at dinner. Once your pup knows that she needs to work for her food, her food motivation will go up. :)
@@NateSchoemer Thank you for taking time out to reply. I seemed to have missed that FAQ video. Will look into it.
Also, I have gone through tons of videos but none compares to your videos. Thank you for making them. They are very easy to understand.
Best wishes.
@@NateSchoemer Hi 😊 just wanted to update, training during meal time is working. There's been progress. Thank you!!!
What kind of treat do you use for a reward? When teaching heel do you use something that sticks better to your palm to keep the dog following?
You can see most of the products that I use with the dogs that I train (including treats) here: www.nateschoemer.com/store
Hey Nate. I'm working with my 9 month old GSD who is incredibly smart and thankfully catches on quickly. He's the most energetic dog I've ever owned (and I have a heeler) and we've been having some issues as I think he needs a job.
I found your channel and am starting for the very beginning, my question to you is how long should I work on a specific skill before moving on?
To begin training a dog, I prioritize teaching the main communication channels which are engagement training, luring, and leash pressure. Once the dog has a good understanding of these, I develop physical cues that guarantee the behavior of each command. After this, I start adding commands for multiple exercises, similar to what you can see in this video (ruclips.net/video/g9n1W_cP8fg/видео.html). Initially, we use continual reinforcement, but once the dog can perform the command on a verbal cue alone, we move to stage 2 in the reward process which you can learn about in this video (ruclips.net/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/видео.html). From there, training is all about bonding with the dog and keeping them happy and balanced. I hope this explanation is clear and helpful. Cheers!
Hey Nate, love your videos! I’m understanding the difference between the different markers, but unsure of how you train for them.
ruclips.net/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/видео.html
This is great information
Thanks, Jon! :)
Question! Am I using the clicker as a continuation or terminal marker? Can you use it for both?
I just want to say that your training videos are amazing and what you are doing as a trainer is wonderful and so helpful. I do want to mention that Pavlov's real experiments were incredibly gruesome and by today's standards very cruel. Many of Pavlov's dogs died due to trauma from surgeries and starvation.
Hello i just found this and im a little confused on the video heres my questions:
Do you need to train them something then do the sound or you need to familiarize it with the sound first then start training?
I learn a lot from your videos and have understood the advantage of the clicker over verbal marker however I struggle handling the leash, treat and the clicker all at a time... So can you please help with handling all three with efficiency
Hi Ghansham, and great question. This is why I use my voice as a marker because it can be difficult to hold the leash, treat, and the clicker while training a dog. Try using verbal markers instead. I think that will make the process much easier for you. :)
@@NateSchoemer Thanks for the advice... Henceforth Yes and Free it is 😊
@@NateSchoemer exactly.
And one carries one voice at all times..lol
This has been my struggle.
Hi Nate, Love the videos very clear and direct. Quick question, Is it possible to use both the clicker and the verbal or is that too confusing for the dog? Thanks
Thanks and Yes, absolutely. You can use both a clicker and a verbal marker. Thanks for the comment and for supporting my channel. :)
I have been finding your videos so helpful while starting training with my 8 week old German Shepherd! Any suggestions for training an ESA for anxiety? Sometimes I have such bad panic attacks I freeze and can’t speak, I’d like to get him to eventually notice these and know to comfort without me having to verbally call him. Any advice helps, Thanks! 💛
Thanks! Yes, a command can be physical or verbal. Follow the step by step process in this video and when you get to the step of adding the command, use the physical cue as the command.
Video: ruclips.net/video/XQRgci18tvY/видео.html
Here's a section from my manual that may help:
This process is the same even if you want to teach a service dog to perform a specific command based on an involuntary human behavior conducted by the person with the disability. For example, you’re training a service dog to nudge his handler when his handler reaches high levels of stress, such as with a veteran suffering from PTSD. First you would need to figure out what the veteran’s involuntary behavior is. For this example, we will say that the veteran looks up and starts to breathe heavily. Once we know this, then that will become the command for the behavior. The next step would be to present a physical cue that can get the dog to nudge your leg (which will be transitioned to the veteran later), let’s say tapping your own leg works for this dog. Now the process would go as follows:
First look up and breathe heavily (the command).
• Then you would tap on your leg to get the dog to nudge your leg (motivate).
• Once the dog nudges you, you either give the reward within the first second or you mark and then reward.
• You will continue to use the physical cues until the dog beats you to it. Meaning, you look up and breathe heavily and before you tap your leg-the dog is already nudging you.
I hope this helps! :)
Yes Thank you so much!
Just adopted a 4 year old dog. She was rehomed and never really trained.
She is showing aggression when i want her to drop something or take away garbage.
What do i do to curb this aggression?
How long do you repeat the click and reward without asking a command to then turn it into a command click reward?
Once the dog is conditioned to the markers, then I start using the markers in the training. However, I always like to do 30 seconds or so of engagement training before each session. ruclips.net/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/видео.html
I have a puppy that is 12 weeks olds and we've been working on conditioning training for some time now, but it doesn't seem that he is conditioned yet. Are there dogs that it can take a really long time to train conditioning or am I just missing the signs that he understands?
My guess is that you are pairing the delivery of the reward with the marker (conditioned reinforcer) sound. If you pair your physical with your verbal, the physical will override the verbal. Try filming yourself while you are training to see if you are making this mistake. I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my channel, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
I'm curious. IF you start with using a clicker, and after you've solidified the behavior/reward with the clicker and treat, is the dog ALWAYS going to expect the clicker/treat? How much longer after the training has been done, can you begin to remove either/or? Or can you not go back to using a verbal "good job"/"Yes" affirmation ever?
Hi Sager! In the beginning we use continual reinforcement. Meaning, we reward every correct behavior. Once the dog knows the command on the verbal alone, then we start to space out the rewards. In addition, our words mean to our dogs what they predict. If a click predicts a reward, then that is what the click means to the dog. If the click stops predicting a reward, then the click will quickly loose the value that it once had to the dog. I've started dogs on clickers before and later transitioned them to the word "yes" without any issues. Check out this video on spacing out rewards: ruclips.net/video/a2OBoptftYs/видео.html Lastly, check out this video and jump to 39:00 where I discuss markers: ruclips.net/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/видео.html I hope that helps and thank you for supporting my work, I really appreciate it. If my training videos have been helpful in any way, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. My goal is to improve the quality of life for all dogs by educating those who care for them. Your support helps me focus on that mission every day! www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
Hi Nate. I have two questions:
My dog is very confident exploring outside the house but very fearful of the small vacuum inside the house. I don’t know how to hold her confidence. Every time I start up the vacuum so the house gets cleaned, she gets nervous and unsettle even inside the crate.
How many days do you usually do this click reward thing before going to the proper obedience training?
I have a 2 month old belgian malinois by the way. Thank you!
Usually for one day, maybe two at the most. Also, before each session after that, I'll do 15 - 30 seconds of engagement training to get the dog into the right mindset to train. Thanks for the question and for supporting the channel. 😁🙏🐶🐕
@@NateSchoemer my belgian is very easily distracted by other things. If I will be playing with her then she sees other people walking by then she tries to bite them in their slippers and unintentionaly bites their feet. I am currently focusing on giving her treats whenever she looks at me in the eye or focuses on my voice. I really dont have any idea on how to make my puppy focus on training or even playing. Hoping for some tips from you. I am just a 1st time belgian owner. Thank you.
my dog is conditioned very well to her continuation and terminal marker words, but I really want to switch to a clicker to make it super clear (I have a tendency to do good gooooooood yes yessssss lol) - how do you condition the clicker for both the continuation marker and the terminal marker? (I want 1 click to mean good and 3 clicks to mean yes)
Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/guoK28P43AE/видео.html
if we will have our family training the dog is it better to use a clicker for consistency?
Yes, it can help. However, the dog can also learn multiple verbal markers, it just may take longer.
Hello Nate. So glad a found your channel 👏🏻How long should a training session last? I have a one year Anatolian Shepherd, that has very bad genetics and can no longer be a working dog. Is it going to be a challenge to get my dog who lived by sheep to now become a family dog?
Thanks for commenting and supporting the channel. Sorry to hear about the genetic issues you're having with your pup. I would suggest checking out this video. Most of the info applies to adult dogs as well. :) ruclips.net/video/OvdKDE326gs/видео.html
my chocolate lab comes home for the first time at 8 weeks old, and your videos are so helpful! i have a question about the clicker though; are you allowed to use tools like a pen as a clicker to engage that repetition sound, or is it the clicker only?
Thanks! It'll work as long as the sound is consistent. I've known other trainers to even use a small squeaker ball for a marker sound.
@nate hi, whats the best age to train GSD
I like to start training a dog as soon as the dog is comfortable in the new environment and at least 8 weeks of age.
Hi! Silly question here: i am having trouble knowing what words to use. I understand “yes” for marking a correct behavior. And I’ve thought about using “break” as in you’re done u can go do your own thing now. But ive seen you use “free” as well. Is it ok if i stick to just these two. Or should I use “free” as well and if so how would i use it ?
You can use any words you like. A word only has value based on what it predicts. Jump to 39:00 in this video to learn more about markers: ruclips.net/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/видео.html 😁🐶🐕
Nate Schoemer thank you so much!!!!!!
Hello, I just got my malinois puppy for 4 days. He is 7week old. I just wanna ask how long is the training for each ep. Thank you.
Progress at the speed your dog is learning at. :)
I see. Thanks a lot 😁
Can a dog be trained to multiple people? Meaning can both my wife and I condition the dog to our own markers? I understand the importance of always sounding the same but obviously my "yes" would sound different than my wife's "yes".
Yes, you can train a dog to work with multiple people. Your dog will learn all the markers and commands from each person as long as that person is consistent with their own commands. Cheers! Nate
You are amazing.🔥🔥
Thanks, Sudha Sri! 🔥
Hey Nate I’m wondering what you do to show the dog that peeing or pooping is bad to do in the house if you get home and they made an accident. I’m getting a dog in a week and for our last dog we put his face near the mess and told him no and bad boy. Have a nice day!
Below is a simple step-by-step process, involving a crate that's just big enough for the dog to stand up, spin around, and lay down (and not any larger). If the crate is larger, then the puppy would be able to go potty in one end of the crate and then sleep on the other end, which would slow the potty-training process. By having the crate the correct size, this will allow the dog to learn to hold their bladder. When your dog is fully potty trained, a larger crate will be acceptable.
There are three crate-training principles to understand: The first guideline for crate-training is that you always want to make the crate a pleasant place for your dog and never a place of punishment, like as a time-out or something of the sort. The second most important guideline is to never put your dog in the crate only when you are leaving the house, or the dog will learn that the crate means that you are leaving, and this can create anxiety and further problems for the crate-training process. The third guideline is to keep your crate next to your bed at night to make it a more comfortable place for your puppy to sleep.
List of crate to-dos:
• Feed your dog in their crate with the door closed.
• Put your dog into the crate randomly throughout the day (even when you are not leaving the house.)
• Give your dog treats in the crate.
• Have your dog sleep in the crate at night.
• If your dog barks or whines in the crate, then directly hit the top of the crate with a metal bowl and this will usually make them quiet. Be sure to say “no” the moment they whine or bark BEFORE hitting the crate. As with any correction, it’s about cause and effect, never personal, so no yelling because you’re angry. This technique works on most dogs.
Depending on the age of the dog, we have to consider how long they can hold their bladders. A simple rule to follow is a dog can stay in a crate for as many hours as months they have been alive. For example, a young pup at two months old can stay crated for two hours. Three months, three hours. Four months, four hours. All the way to eight hours being the max time in a crate.
After the time in the crate, the puppy is taken out and given a chance to go potty.
If they successfully go potty, the dog should be rewarded, perhaps taken on a walk or playing fetch. We try to reinforce that the bathroom break leads to more fun activities (however, when I wake up to potty a puppy in the middle of the night, I won't play after they go potty. I'll let them sniff around for a couple minutes and then I take them back inside).
If the puppy doesn't go, then he or she is brought back to the crate. We wait 20 minutes, then repeat the process.
The important factor is to make the dog associates going outside with going potty, and that it's something to look forward to.
If the puppy happens to go inside the house, you don't need to rush at them yelling. You simply say "no," correct the puppy, then take the pup outside, and reward with positive reinforcement after they go potty.
Often people will argue till they are blue in the face that they can teach a dog not to go potty in the house by catching them after the fact. However, out of the ten times they corrected the dog for this behavior one or two of the times they actually caught the dog in the act, and that’s when the dog learned.
If the puppy has gone potty in the house, but you did not catch them in the act, then do NOT correct them. You must catch them immediately or else they won't understand. Please see the importance of timing discussed elsewhere in this book.
Here’s an analogy I use for explaining this to people: Let’s say that you become a prisoner of war in a foreign country where you don’t speak the same language. You have your little prison cell with your toilet that you use every day with no issues. One day you become bored and you start to carve on the wall. One of the guards sees you carving on the wall and he runs into your cell, yelling at you in a language you don’t understand. They then take your face and shove it into the toilet. Are you going to think that they are shoving your face into the toilet because you used the toilet, or are you going to think they are shoving your face into the toilet because you were carving on the wall? Because that’s what you were doing when they started yelling at you.
It is the same for our dogs and our puppies. If your dog or puppy goes to the bathroom in the house and you did not see them go to the bathroom, and the dog starts a different activity, then whatever that activity may be, if you start to yell at your dog during that activity and shove your dog’s face into their own mess, they are going to think that you are shoving their face into their own mess because of the activity they were doing when you started yelling at them.
Note: if your puppy goes potty inside their potty-training crate, then it's your fault. Dogs do not go potty where they sleep or eat unless they simply can't hold it. However, if your puppy continues to potty in the crate even though you have been giving them plenty of opportunities to go potty outside, there is a possibility that the puppy has a UTI and should be looked at by your veterinarian.
When training your puppy, remember, you want to make the training as fun as possible, creating a fun learning environment that the puppy wants to keep coming back to. Follow the training process as explained earlier in chapter 7: The science to teaching a dog any command. Be sure to work on multiple commands in each session. This makes the training more fun for your puppy and as a side effect, they will learn more quickly.
Hello I am new in your channel and I have been training my dog in a wrong way, how easy is to get start again the way you are showing us. Thanks
Thanks for checking out my channel. I would just start from the beginning. Your dog should be able to quickly make the adjustments to the new training. :)
Nate Schoemer thank you so much and yes I will do
Can you use tongue clicks?
Yes. :)
But I did do that to my dog once, I went “you know that training session we did earlier, I really liked that, here’s a reward” because he’s a good boy 😊
Hahaha! 😁😁😁🐶🐶🐶
Like a Broken Record 😀👍🏼 (Point noted.. Thats a funny & will remember for ever) Thank you from Mumbai.
If your just saying yes isn’t that a continuation marker , should you say free instead, I’m getting confused with the two types
Here's a section from my manual that should help:
Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker (I like to use the word “yes”). This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay.
However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay.
In contrast, we have the terminal markers (I like to use the word “free”). These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished).
Nate what do you use for training treats?
Thanks! You can see most of the products that I use with my dogs here. www.nateschoemer.com/store Cheers! :)
5:50 Yeah, because I walk to go get where I put the treats at. Then the dog follows me to go get the reward while waiting for me to get the treat.
Good warm hello from Morocco
Thanks, Hicham! Cheers!
Just got a rescue COVID puppy. Hope we’ll be able to get him conditioned properly
I'm sure you'll do great! 😁🐶🐕
Best trainer ever ♥️♥️ love you teacher
Thanks, I really appreciate that! :)
How do you have a Continuation and Terminal Marker with a Clicker?
You would need to have 2 different distinct sounds if you wanted to use both the terminal and continuation marker. If you would like to only use one marker, then I would suggest using the clicker as the terminal marker. You can always build duration using verbal praise as feedback. In fact, this is what many trainers choose to do and you can still get really nice results. :)
Watching this to train my over-reactive dachshund. She also suffers from separation anxiety. She doesn't have the high bed but has a crate for sleeping because my house is extremely tiny
I’ve messed up mixing 1 and 2 for so long
If you ever make a mistake in training, just go back a step or two in the training process to fix the mistakes. :)
Do you offer dog training
Hi William! I offer private lessons in Los Angeles and Phone Consultations or Facetime/Zoom training for those not in the Los Angeles area. Feel free to email me if you want to schedule a lesson. Thanks! NateSchoemer@gmail.com
Such awesome information. It helped me realize the small inconsistencies/mistakes I’ve been doing that have likely hindered the speed of my dog’s learning.
Glad it was helpful! :)
Sir u r the best trainer on u tube.... Plz also use a doberman for ur videos...love from Indial(BHARAT)🇮🇳
Thank you sir and I'll try to do some videos with a doberman in the future. Cheers!
This is Pavlovian psych at its finest!
Thank you, Erika! :)
Hi Nate,
We found a young dog in our neighbourhood that was probably abandoned, so she’s going to stay with us. I started her training about 5 days ago, and we already have some results: she is better at walking on a loose leash, she reacts to her name if no serious distraction around, etc. The only problem right now is markers. I thought that it’s the easiest part and don’t really understand what I’m doing wrong. If it’s ok, I attach the video: ruclips.net/video/CBxw70OkE2g/видео.html
Here we practise her name (Hel), luring and markers («cen» and «zeu»). She reacts to her name (not perfect, but she does), follows the food but I can’t see any reaction to the markers. Could you point any mistakes? Or should we just continue and wait?
Jump to 4:30 in this video: ruclips.net/video/UkZ7ucpK9sc/видео.html Notice how I talk to the dog a little after the marker to give her some additional encouragement. It will also help to make your markers more distinct sounding. Lastly, on a few of them you paired the physical with the verbal. Make those adjustments and add a little more playfulness and you should see better progress. :)
Thank you for the answer!
We can do it :)
Okay so if the dog isn't going to remember taking a big crap at the front door, will it help to refresh the dogs memory by sticking his nose in it, and saying No?
Jump to 7:15 in this video. I explain your question.
NO NO NO NO!!!’
I hope you are being sarcastic.
@@judyives1832 I always thought it was cruel. I wanted to assist by eliminating that old cruel method by asking the question. I hope people will learn and practice the Four Quadrants for teaching their dogs that Nate has mentioned in many of his videos. In my opinion, the FQ is the key to developing a healthy successful relationship and bond. Thank you for the reply, I hope more people will take the time to bond and teach their dogs in a positive manner. I just found this channel and am already a supporter. If you have any methods that have worked for you that are different from Nate's, please share. I love learning from everyone. Lastly, let's help out Nate and get him to 100k.
2:53 to 2:58
Yes!!! Me
Sir it would be nice if you could make a potty nd pee command
ruclips.net/video/EKqy0j7tYi0/видео.html :)
Thanks! Very helpful. Btw...are you single?
Thanks and not single. :)