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I take a beautiful German shepherd out once a week from a rescue centre, he is dog reactive and has to wear a muzzle, he’s such a lovely clever and alert dog otherwise and so deserves a home. Is there anything I can do in the limited time I have with him to help him with his nerves and reactivity. I normally book him a secure pen as he hates wearing the muzzle and I want him to enjoy time out but I would love for him to find a home and I don’t think he will if he is reactive. He’s only about 12-18 months old.
I checked out your link and honestly it comes across like a phishing website. I do not know who wrote the text on there, but it looks like it was written by someone who has started learning English over the past 2 years. On top of that you claim it is free on RUclips, but on the website it clearly states you will show us 3 things. The first of which is "Proven training system". You state here the following: "Our step by step proven training system that we’ve used to train over 12,000 reactive dogs, we do not offer access to this anyone except our clients." Secondly: "Fix Your Dog's Reactivity How to solve your dog’s reactivity for PERMANENTLY, without having to constantly worry about when and where you’re able to take them." You just mentioned this for 5 seconds, then went on about what a great programme you have, but you did not fix reactivity or provide any information on how to fix it. Lastly: "Guaranteed Perfect Recall Our ‘Perfect Recall’ strategy that guarantees your dog will come back to you every time, regardless of what’s around them." YOU HAVE NOT EVEN SAID A WORD ABOUT THIS. The phonecall was rather disappointing. I do not recommend anyone to call you and listen to a 30 minute sales pitch. Money is clearly all you want. The phonecall is bait, does not teach people a thing and its sole purpose is convincing people to join the programme. This is on par with: "hello sir I would like to talk to you about your car's extended warranty" Please also note that this is basically false advertising and against the law. In the discovery call you have taught me nothing you said you would. I have informed my local authorities of these practices, reported this to RUclips and Google as well. You should be ashamed of the way you conduct business. Preying on desperate people for money.
The biggest mistake with socialisation is thinking it means up close interaction with other people and dogs but it’s Also learning to ignore other people and dogs if that’s what you ask for. A puppy should ‘wait’ for EVERYTHING…once wait becomes a well established command it’s easy to get puppy to wait while others move around them without too much drama. Both ways of socialising are equally important. Ignoring is as much socialising as playing is. Training is just building blocks but it’s incredible to see how many puppies get set up to fail.
I didn't learn this until taking my dog to puppy classes. I grew up reading a lot of training books and it's not really a concept that I remember being really discussed in the books. Saying "socialisation" brings up the idea of interacting with others and the world, not ignoring things. So even though the term is technically correct, I think it creates a mental short cut and people don't fully understand the definition of it, and think it's common enough sense not to ask. "Make sure you really socialize your puppy" easily sounds like "expose your puppy to a lot of things". Nothing in there really suggests it should involve training and structure.
@@Hi_Im_Akward Social to humans means interaction with other people. Which we all leave in the human society so it makes more sense when we listen to this word, socilazing a dog means that we bring an animal to our standars of society, with that been said what we need to do is introduce how our society works with rules and bountries. Exposing a dog to all these new informations is completly wrong without teaching them what calmness means and how to live to our society. We dont talk to all the people we meet on our way to our job for example so why my dog should be forced to do the same. Bountries needed in all kind of relationships for humans or dogs , so we are responsible to lead and guide our puppies to our society with correct and safe way for a better life for them. By training your dog you strenghthen your bond with them , building bridges for clear communication and it needs time and work. Its good if we get the information from books or social but applying them is a differnt story. Thats why dog trainer is and always will be a solid and needed proffesion. Cheers to that
Example #2 was where I was screwed from the start. By the time I 'acquired' him (more like he acquired me) this 'rotten/pit' had already been habituated to full on hyper excitement around other dogs (not aggressive but it looked like it because he saw every other dog as play time) and most dogs take that as aggression. The general public sees a rotty or a pit as nothing but a fight in the making - too bad. He had one of the best personalities of any dog I ever had (before that I had been exclusively a 'lab' person) but I never was able to get a handle on the excitement. I probably should have sought out professional help but having been a dog person my whole life I thought I would be able to make the proper corrections - wrong. We just had to do deal with it - that said, he was an absolute joy around the brand new 10 week old dachshund puppy....70lbs of muscle and teeth vs a 3lb terror and he couldn't have been a better playmate - they were great together. Many great memories of those two - Go figure... :)
When I trained my anxious rescue dog and even my two cats, I found that using massive and enthusiastic praise as a “base level treat” and only giving a major treat on rare occasions to make a point works well! But honestly, praise in a high pitched voice can be its own reward for pets who love and trust you
Yes this worked AMAZINGLY for my two blacklab/yorkie mixs and even my black cat. Does nothing for my German shepherd though. She couldn't care less about my praise. Buuuttt... bring out her favorite ball? She'd do anything for that ball. It's largely about finding out what motivates your specific dog. My dog Misty would jump through hoops (literally I trained her in agility) for a pat on the head and to be told she was a good girl, Bella (dog) only cares about food so I used treats for her, and Auri the German shepherd is 100% in it for the balls. Dogs with different personalities go for different rewards with different levels of interest.
It's not the high pitched voice, it's your demeanor and body language. In case of women/girls, this often boils down to their voices being at a higher pitch. In case of men, well, we're men. We usually do not have high pitched voices. BUT it is extremely important to acknowledge your dog's behavior when they obey/ignore a command and take action on it. The interaction between (hu)man and dog is what it important. Attention is key.
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
Thank you. My 3 month old pit mix rescue isn’t listening without treats. I’m tdoing my best daily and just a bit discouraged but am determined to get her trained.
@74TK08 The key with treats is that we want to use them every time the dog performs the behavior until they can do it 10/10 times without you having to lure them or entice them in that distraction level (we want to start over in each new environment). Then you can start to slowly ween them off the treats by giving them every other time the dog does the behavior for a while, then go to giving treats every two or three times, and so on. But, occasionally, you want to drop back down to every single time (for example: You're giving treats every 10 times he does it, so then start giving treats every single time for a few repetitions, then go back to every 10 times). The key is that we're mixing it up so he knows he's gonna get a treat, he just doesn't know WHEN. You want to ensure that he can do the behavior 10/10 times before starting this process, though, otherwise he may regress, because he doesn't know it well enough yet. You also want to do one behavior at a time. Don't just get rid of the treats altogether. Ween him off them for "sit," and then when you're giving treats every 20 or 30 times for that, you can start on "down," for example. And, finally, don't be afraid to take a step back. If you start weening off the treats, and he becomes less responsive, then go back to every single time for a little while, because he's telling you that he doesn't know the behavior well enough yet to do it without them yet. You've got this! If you need anything, please feel free to reach out anytime! 🐶❤️
Also, take a moment to check your emotions. If you're nervous, take a breath and shake it out. If you're getting frustrated, just stop for the day. And this depends on the dog, but with my dogs, I've figured out that if I am not making any kind of progress after about 4 tries and they don't seem to be getting it, then I'm probably doing something wrong. Usually I haven't broken it down into small enough steps.
It’s good to know that even the experts make mistakes. I personally have to unlearn trying to be nice to everyone. People always want to say hi to my dog, but he just doesn’t like being touched by strangers. Hence, barking and growling. I have to advocate for him better. (Trying to do better every day.)
I'm the opposite too blunt. GET YOUR DOG AWAY FROM MY DOG. My dog isn't reactive but I'm picky I want her to STAY balanced. Keep your overexcited dogs and humans away from us.
@toadhall5041 That's a great start. Please also get consent from the human handling the dog. They may know something you don't about the dog's triggers, or they may be working on certain things (such as only getting pets while the dog is sitting).
People seem to have forgotten that you should NEVER approach a dog you do not know without the owner's permission. As the owner is the best person to tell if the dog is ready for the interaction or not. I have 2 rehomed dogs with behavioral issues and it's been hard work training them. Any time someone tries to comeup to us without permission I will literally get upset with them and say: DO NOT EVER approach a strange dog like that. People do not seem to realize that animals aren't living stuffed toys for their entertainment. They mean well, surely. But when I grew up, this was common knowledge. It's all but forgotten now.
I taught my pup basic obedience commands right from day 1. The command ‘leave it’ works for everything out there. He’s a fiery little Yorkie mix who can walk right by other dogs AND squirrels when I say LEAVE it. I taught it using tiny bits of food at first. Once he got it I removed the food. For praise. Every time.
I have a dobdrman. I started taking her everywhere with me the day I got her. She was 8 weeks. I worried about her getting sick but I was more worried about the short window if I had waited till 16 weeks. She is very confident today. I'm glad I did it that way. She experienced so much at a young age! Made her a confident dog
@@heatherspenshawsame, some dogs are predisposed to it genetically which is why good breeders are so important. Backyard breeding is something I hate with a passion hoenslty, though mine was a rescue from finding her pregnant mother on the streets so it was a bit of a wild card getting her and I was prepared for that going into it. Now she's doing tons better with consistent training, she's not reactive like she used to be (not even close, I have to tell people she's reactive because it's no longer obvious)
We now have a 9 month old euro doberman and she is a social butterfly. She definitely has a working line in her genetics. She's just go go go. But we've socialized her by going out to places, stores, birthday parties etc. She absolutely loves everyone and every dog. She does play a little rough with other dogs, but not aggressive in any way. She plays with the doberman behind our house all the time. They're practically best friends. Very very good temperament. Just has that insane drive I have to deal with 😂😂
I think this is why street dogs make great pets. They just have so much experience in the world. My girl was a stray and she was such a smart girl - very confident in almost every situation. Those types of dogs are a complete joy and one is lucky to have them.
Should watch Beckman's Dog training and TheDogDaddy. Unfortunately, this video is superficial compared to that. And they teach nothing without making you pay first. The channels mentioned above are basically providing all of this information for free and more. The only thing you have to pay for with them, is when you physically go to a training session with them.
@@R0CKETMVNTV I think I've seen a little of Beckman's. I personally detest TDD's methods, as I think he is unwise in putting the dogs into situations the way he does, in how harshly he handles them, and in his "I handled the dog once and now it's fixed forever" mindset. I fear that he is causing those dogs more problems down the road, not fewer. I am not looking for direct training advice--I am a dog trainer myself, although amateur. I can learn from about anyone and appreciate the opportunity to do so. However, as I spent significant money, time, and stress to earn my knowledge and a degree of proficiency, I do not expect other trainers to give away their hard-won wisdom for free. I will say that I am quite grateful when they do, tho! I haven't watched many videos on this channel yet, but I can recommend Upstate Canine Academy and Canine Revolution Dog Training as channels I appreciate and whose methods seem quite well-balanced.
All of this is true. Wish i had known it years ago with my first Border Collie Dash, rip my sweet girl. On second baby boy now. Secret I learned, if you already exercised and played and they seem hyer. Especially a work/herding breed they are probably over stimulated and tired. Another walk makes it worse, make them sleep! ❤ Just like toddlers.
My cat does this 😅 if I'm going to bed real late and I've been playing with her, sometimes she'll seem to get extra crazy instead of tired out. I finally realized if we just go to bed she'll fall asleep almost right away
This is where schedule can play a big part. When a walk or playtime is at a specific time and a nap or bedtime is scheduled, the energy level tends to reflect that schedule. Our cat sometimes tries to get us to play after “bedtime” (which starts with closing him in the bedroom and our human tasks before sleep) but once the light goes out, he starts to settle down. Bird cages are often covered to help them settle when they’re overstimulated, so I assume it’s both reducing stimulation and the schedule/routine that leads to stopping zoomies at 10pm.
Holy shit man….you answered so many of my questions that nobody managed to answer ever…I cannot express how grateful I am for this video. I’m just at the part where you mentioned how to get a puppy to accept treats outside and use positive reinforcement. Ah god bless you really!
Best advice ever! I raised my GSD on a houseline until he was 18 months old and showing he was becoming trustworthy (earning his freedom). He is 5 years old now and still has not destroyed anything in my home. He is the most amazing dog ever. Yes, I also made several mistakes when he was a puppy and wish I could go back and do it all differently but heck, he still turned out to be incredible.
My 2 boys showed up on my front porch at 12 weeks, give or take. I was able to easily expose them to a number of situations, building their confidence and tolerance. Then Texas snowpocolypse happened in Feb 2021. The boys were about a year old. We got displaced and lived out of a hotel for 4 months. That, IMHO, was the best thing for them. Every day, a new dog, a new situation, and new people to meet. I have a Pyrenees/A.Akita/German Shep/Chowchow mix, and a Rat Terrier/Chihuahua mix. Since then, they have both become therapy dogs ❤
These are all essentially what i learned in puppy class, and all of it has been incredibly helpful. I do still think "jackpot" high rewards are useful to have on hand, but what i learned was those are used for particularly difficult things. Like if you have a dog struggling to understand something or it takes several steps to train it, jack pot high value rewards can help mark when they get something right and it can keep them working hard on the "minimum wage" because they know a "bonus" is possible. As for the reactivity, i think this actually has helped me understand it more than i ever have. I've had multiple reactive dogs and didn't know why. My two dogs now are a lot better than past dogs, but its still always a work in progress. I think i might have a better idea on how to work on it now. Thank you for the video this is very helpful.
@@tigertalks1567, My best behaved dog didn’t benefit from puppy class. She was singled out and picked on by the teacher, and we quit and got a refund after the third class, when the worst behaved dog’s owners pointed out what I had noticed about the teacher. Everyone we met asked me if they could have that dog. I think a lot of the behavior is genetic. I trained her myself, and made a few mistakes, like spaying her too young, but she was the best dog ever. My current youngest had a really bad trainer. She marketed herself as a positive only trainer, but she used sneaky negative tools. This dog has regressed considerably, _and I paid for it_ ($100/hour).
Great job explaining. I’ve been a dog trainer for over 40 years. I’m from the generation of “choke chains” as standard training equipment. I started transitioning to the positive reinforcement/reward based in early 2003. There is a bad habit all trainers tend to fall into. “The thinking, of my way is the best”. I however have always tried to listen to or watch how other trainers do it. The basics of training are the basics. But we “old dogs”. Me. Can get in a rut of terminology and always explaining things in our way. Language changes with each generation and us older trainers can fall off just sounding old.
Thanks for this video. My dog is Ranger Spirit I rescued him from the county shelter of seven years of age he was used a guard dog. I was his last chance. Socialization just means creating a sense of neutrality in different environments. It should be done strategically. What you are describing is reactivity to over socialization which is very common. Most folks do not understand what socialization is. There are so many dangerous myths out there on how to bring their best friend into the outside world. I think you are amazing for sharing this video. By the way I work with last chance dogs and fearful dogs. Preventative care is essential. Hope Ranger is doing well!
I can’t stop laughing listening to every point you make . . . . .all us right down the line! The only thing we got right was the house line . . . .no better puppy training tool out there. Dogs getting reactive at the door? Put them on a house line. They can’t behave better if they don’t understand what we want them to do. Thanks so much for sharing!
Really appreciate your channel, you get down to the basics of a dog’s chemistry and their resultive behavior based solely from their mechanics. I’ve always leaned towards “working dogs”. 65 years old and my latest is a Dutch Shepherd, got him as a rescue, didn’t know the breed, talk about over the top “reactivity”. Living in a large city, I’ve made every mistake you mentioned and with the help from people like you, am slowly trying to dial back what I thought I knew. Hopefully the old cliché, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks” doesn’t apply to my little over a year old, hope to be a great dog!!!
Love this, you crack me up because this is so true. We became displaced during a hurricane so now we are out in the country instead of town and he almost lost his mind when a deer went across the back yard. He is almost three, a minpin. H has been to high priced training so I know he can behave. We are going out today, alone. No grandkids, no mom’s dog, basically eliminating new distractions and headed for a field to do some focus work. I had to use a house line just yesterday because he is picking up the older house dogs bad habits. It really works.
Well I hear you.... but There is one flaw here...🥰 I adopt senior dogs. Yes you can teach old dogs new tricks. One 8 years old black lab mix.. highly reactive, barked uncontrollably... to bikes, door knocks, skate boarders, other dogs... in two months all bad habits were broken.. in 6 months I needed no leash, this alpha dog followed me everywhere. This was a backyard dog, that barked relentlessly.. with me, the only time Bell barked, was a knock at the door. B ut only one woof. What did I do. I made her follow me, behind me, or even at my side and if she reacted, she went into a two or three minute time out. She had to lay there, with my hand on her until she relaxed and surrendered. She attributed if she does that thing,.. she would get a time out. She and I were best buddies. Best dog ever. And yes I did not use treats... rarely. Good idea on the house line... but then again.. I never get puppies. Too many older dogs that need loving homes.
@catherinewheel4851 It is like a child time out, but the dog has to lay down right where he is misbehaving. I put the dog in a lay down pose, them laying on their side. I repeat the would calm., down. calm.. down... in a relaxed voice. I am firm... yet relaxing. I am not asking . It is a command. Yet my hand will be on the dog applying a gentle pressure so they know they must lay down. This is the best I can describe it.
@@kyrareneeLOAinteresting--we have an 8 year old pound dog that is reactive--we r not sure what to do and who to consult--the biggest issue though is that she seems to think my smaller shy chi is a squirrel and tries to bite his leg... seems like the new dog just has too many issues...
omg! i am so glad to have read your comment. i have the similar experience. my dog started training when he was 10 years old in human years by a k9 instructor in the military i served as a medical volunteer for about a month. no treats also coz my dog never liked it according to the instructor. but behold, just a month of training my dog was a fast learner as any other dog no matter the age that the instructor even asked if he had previously been trained. i told the instructor that just the basic, potty train, come and sit and after that nothing, not even socializing coz he was a house dog on a 360 square m lot. his only exposure outside was going to the vet.
I loved your video. I’ve made all the usual mistakes. And I have six dogs. Because of your video, things are going to get a lot better at my house. Thank you.
I wished I'd had this advice when my girl was a puppy, she is super reactive now at 15 months old Staffy x. I laughed at the beginning with the "at 12 weeks cramming in training & vets and everyone on the internet saying, don't take your puppy out until it's had its shots" part. Made all these mistakes as well, now at a loss and need a behaviourist to help reverse all these mistakes I have made! Won't be making any of these mistakes again in future, but feel for my girl that she had to pay for my lack of knowledge and listening to the wrong advice or advice overload.
Great video. I somehow avoided these mistakes and listened to the "balanced trainers". She had puppy classes and training with other dogs early. Another thing that worked is relying on me for guidance. She has to wait when I feed her till I release her. Wait at door openings until I go through and release her. When seeing other dogs she sits at my side until they pass or we agree to meet. She didn't have the run of the house when a puppy and we crate trained her not as a punishment but as a safe place to go. She likes the guidance and now is enjoy agility training and is now just over one. She is the most balanced, smart dog we have had.
This video answered so many questions! Still working on reactivity because I did this exact mistake. Not sure why the hate on Zach though, he has also said a lot of these things.
Wow. Speechless. This is hands down the most valuable information out there! Thank you for sharing and I hope every new dog owner watches this before they get a puppy!
i have 6 puppies, they all got the same experiences and training. Still, 2 of them are more reactive than others. 1 chases every bike, one barks on other dog, and 4 are cool calm babies. So it seems like it is not only nurture, nature plays huge force too.
another important part of early training process with pups is teaching them to switch from action and excitement to rest and relaxation. This also makes a huge difference when you start to teach them how to play with other dogs. I've noticed it's easier to maintain control when they learn how and when to quit the game and go into relaxation. That way they also learn how to better manage themselves in different kind of situations.
Facts! Kudos to you, self reflection is so important. I foster rescue dogs since 2010 and do exactly what you describe. Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪 Claudia
This is super useful! I’m a first time owner and used a house line from minute 1 and I’ve had zero destruction of house things (lots of toys have met their maker though 😂). I’ve also made a point of giving her outdoor experiences from 8 weeks old but I’ll definitely take your advice about high value treats.
I have done exactly the same as described here and ended up with a reactive caucasian shepherd now 2 yrs old who won't listen and if on lead pulls like a freight train towards other dogs, over socialised her at 4 months as a puppy to avoid her becoming reactive, exact opposite result obtained, also is over stimulated by cats or any small fluffy object, sorry squirrel too slow, recall only when nothing better to chase, sniff or pee on.
It’s not the breed or the dog, but the human behind the dog. Human can rationalize and realize the mistakes made & correct it, if we just blame the dog nothing gets fixed. Lease pulling is a symptom of over excitement. Chasing other smaller animals is a symptom of prey-drive. So possibly you have high prey drive mixed with over-excitement, which is red-zone with no leverage. There are techniques to fix these without even hurting your dog but involves it changing your mindset.
@@Sepo-i9eit really is the Breed! Breeds bred to work, highly intelligent.. bred to herd. Retrieve, guide , sniff, and fighting dogs. Can’t be trained usually to do other jobs ! It’s obvious
I found a method that stopped pulling in a day. You put the leash on the INSIDE the house and go a couple steps towards the door and then stop. If your dog doesn't stop give them a correction, pull on the leash sideways, for a caucasian you gotta pull pretty hard and then release. Your dog will probably go like "WTF bro", so go a couple of steps and check if your dog is still with you or not. If he also stop when you stop go to the door and fling it open but don't go out. If your dog starts going out give them a correction again and turn around. Leave the door open. Repeat this until your dog stops when you stop. Then step out the door but only go a few steps then stop. Check if your dog stops. And so on and so on. I almost gave up on my dog because walking was a torture but now he is doing soooooo good. I basically do this couple of steps towards the door then stop and pop the leash if he doesn't stop EVERY TIME before going out. It takes less than 1 minute to check if he is in the right state of mind to go out for a walk. We literally tried everything else but nothing helped except this method. You just don't head out the door if he doesn't stop when you stop. Even during the walk I randomly stop and reset him before we reach critical points on our way (crazy barking dog behind a fence etc.) and it is essential that you don't let him barge out any doors or gates. He needs to be with you.
This is so awesome and concisely explains so many pitfalls my clients used to go through before they called me! I wrote a free document to try and explain and try mitigate them! Thank you for sharing and your candor
I adopted a German shepherd at 14 months old and I had to learn very quickly but I have learnt a bit from you which was very positive. A bit from a positive only and I was just being mindful and building on my relationship. Playing games, using, food and trying to hold more value than anything else. I'm still learning but he's always been ok with me and he's not bothered by people and I can walk past dogs on the other side of the road with out any commotion and I find it quite entertaining when my dog ignores yapping little dogs. I am still working on things but the hardest problem is family but luckily I prefer my dogs company to all these ignorant asshole that create problems.
Spot on. We overstimulated our Welsh springer and we’re working to get his reactivity/ stress bucket back down. His food is given throughout the day with extra good kibble on recall ( could be the good shit could be praise or could be normal kibble: the 33% payout helps with anticipation). Dead right with if he can’t get to another dog. Very reactive where off lead he’s way better. It’s a bugger but he’s improving.
This was so helpful! My dog sounds + looks a lot like Ranger. She’s super smart + great in new situations, but she LOVES other dogs + has become quite reactive + doesn’t listen to me when she sees them. I couldn’t figure out how to fix the behavior + I’ve tried many things. But this helped me understand why the behavior started in the first place + provided guidance on how to redirect her attention. Really appreciate it! Xo
My first dog was out at 16 weeks ( she was a rescue pup, spent what little life she had at the time in a shelter) she's nervous, easily overwhelmed and ive had her for 8 years now. My newest pup I've had since he was 8 weeks and he was out in the sling for our walks 2 x a day from the get go, he came to the pub, wandered around the village (in a sling) . We also had access to a private field that nobody else is allowed in, low risk, so I used to let him run around in there. He's the most confident, friendly obedient dog I've ever had 😂
I didn't get my pup until he was 16 weeks old. I missed a very valuable learning window. Because of this, socialization and training took even longer, I think. He also thought every dog was a playmate. He's much better now, but it was a long road.
I use a house line even on fosters of all ages as well. I don’t have to worry about house training accidents or damage from a chewer. It also allows me to learn the dog and us to bond.
Even before I got my Connie I'd gotten one of those funky dog backpacks so I could move about and let her explore the world with me, she could run alongside me or even take a nap or keep distance as she needed to in her safe space. It's great to hear your slice of life experiences, as always your input is invaluable and shows its merit in Ranger and co. I wish modern training methods caught up to dogs rather than heel to sponsorships.
WOW! Thank you. Subscribed and can't wait to learn more. My 22kg staffy pulls on the leash. I've tried tips from YT vids and nothing works. She walks fine off the leash but laws require us to put her on the leash. When I put the leash on her it's like she suddenly thinks she is working. Think ....sled dog and she has to pull me everywhere. The closest thing I got to getting her out of this was to give her something to carry. While she was carrying something, she was happy that she had a job to do and didn't pull. But now, the novelty has worn off for carrying something and she won't even accept anything into her mouth to carry. Do you have a video I can hopefully pick up some ideas to get her to stop pulling? I'm 52 now and getting a bit too old to be dragged along.
Thank you! I’ve had adult rescue dogs but now have my first puppy. She is an Am Staffie with a bit of boxer mix. Now at 4 months. I’ve had her since 8 weeks. I use the house line, very helpful crate time is for sleeping, very well trained in this. She does have episodes where she loses it and the zoomers take over her brain. She will nip and not listen. I use the under the collar hold gently and get her to settle. She does a little. I notice when she’s tired and gets over stimulated she forgets all she’s learned. Thank you for the advice on treats. Very helpful. I’ve been giving her too much, too many. I’ll work on that. Socialization going well. I got her out from the time I’ve had her and notice her confidence building. Your advice is great.
Super video and some "new" information. My poodle has become semi-reactive through many of the reasons you explained. I've confused him with all my blah-blah. I can't say how frustrating it is to have him ignore me and my commands. Thanks for tips. Keep it up and wish you lots of success. Ciao for now, David Q.
Very helpful. I have a 16 month lab retriever who is pretty good mostly but likes to get hold of your hands with his teeth when in the garden. It is not biting but holding however it can hurt and when I say no he zooms around the garden like a loon! This is the one behaviour we have been unable to stop so we take him into the garden on a lead which is a total pain.
Your dogs were SO CUTE as puppies!! Their little faces and their wobbles are absolutely adorable ❤😢 my parents have had 2 dogs that are anxious and reactive with either dogs or people. Their current boy, Beau, is so wonderful and friendly and bright, it's refreshing. However, he has been getting more reactive since I'm not visiting as often to train him. If they hadn't inherited a little dog that keeps him socialized, I wouldn't be surprised if he became dog aggressive too. I'll definitely keep these tips in mind when working with him, and hopefully when I eventually get a dog of my own, too. Thanks for sharing your experiences and being transparent with mistakes--it can help prevent us from making the same ones.
Great video! Especially tip #3 is where I went wrong. After having raised five great Golden Retrievers with no behaviour issues at all, my now 18 months old male Shiloh Shepherd was a totally different story! I had focused too much on socialization, which let to frustration and a lot of leash reactivity. He's getting a lot better, but we're not all the way there yet...
Scroll up to the comment about over socialization. I think we did that with our GSD. In that comment, they said that socialization should create neutrality in a multi dog scenario (loose interpretation). We created or rewarded excitement. Addit: see @allisonlevy616 She said that socialization is creating neutrality in
I have an intact (for now) male Chihuahua who is not quite 1 & 1/2. I did all the things you said you would have done. I got a crossbody sling and took him everywhere I could think of, trains, buses, loud things like construction sites, cement mixer, busy city streets, near school when the kids were coming out, ‘meeting’ cows, sheep and horses. And yes, dogs. Only belonging to people I knew, trusted, and whose dogs were calm tempered, from a mini Dachshund to a very large Rottweiler. These dogs are still his core group. He is super friendly to everyone and thing. But, isn’t there always one. Around 10 months while on walks he would bark like mad when he met another dog. I trusted him and would ask their dog’s temperament and if we could approach. Once he got to the dog it was all the natural dog stuff. It was as if he knew he was almost invisible due to his size and was announcing himself (my imagination). Then it dawned on me that by getting to meet the dogs was rewarding him. Now he has 2 commands for this. If a dog is approaching and he is starting to get excited it’s ’Easy’ and sometimes that works and he just whines. When he barks it’s ’Enough’. I will usual have to hold him in a standing position. I then put him in a sit until he calms and I give him the ‘release’ command. This may have to be done more than once. This is a small, do-filled village and everyone knows each other by their dogs. I will sometimes ask people with calm dogs to help by just hanging around with their dog as if we weren’t there while I put Chester through those steps and adding staying in sit while the dog is still there. We seem to be making progress both ways but I just made this stuff up so I don’t know if I’m doing the ‘right’ thing. He’s my 7th dog and I’ve never experienced this before…
Thank you for this! Very informative! I always wondered where I went wrong with my dog, this is why. I truly thought I did everything right with socializing.
This all makes sense to me, especially since I have been doing it the way you first learned and I am seeing that results are so so and I can't trust them. Will start over and use all his kibble to train outdoors. Thank you so much!
From a dog trainer, good advices bro ! I would add and explain how to make a crate a positive and safe environment from the puppy, both for not giving access to things we don't want the dog to chew bite , eat ext while we are not focused on them or not at home.... And to avoid future separation problem . Good job tho
4 month old puppy, have worked on training every day, and hitting some really frustrating points with preteen behaviour. Going to work with some of these, thanks for the tips
Fantastic advice Incredibly frustrating that this isn't easily highlighted when you read all the stuff you do before getting dog or in "how to raise your puppy We read mountains before getting our first dog NO mention of reactivity or how to prevent Just lots of rubbish about how to get them to sit or give a paw However most of the people I know that got first time puppies with us DONOT Have reactive dogs and look at me as if I'm mad when I mention mine is We have put soooo much work in SO why aren't all "first time pups reactive? And as we can't turn back the clock how the heck do we undo it I am so frustrated with doing what 3 behaviourists have told me to do and still have a reactive dog
great video but what do we do if we made all of those mistakes already lol? we didn’t get our dog until he was 6 months old and we’ve made mistakes too, so now what? I appreciated you showing that even a dog trainer can make mistakes too.
This is amazing information! Thank you! Im hoping to get a puppy in the spring and will definitely be using these tips. My last dog, a 7 year old rescue, was scared of everything and definitely not socialized. Going for walks was so stressful for both of us. I really want to do right by my next dog.
Great advice. I've made all those mistakes too in the past. With my most recent dog I've only allowed socialisation at group training sessions but even there you can meet reactive dogs. Part of reactivity is genetics of the dog too and some are very feisty. Some dogs will never became reactive how ever many mistake you make, where as some are more prone to go down that route.
A house line have been essential for my dog, I gave up at using one point...he was chewing his off... I was going through leads like crazy. Eventually as he was 8 months I was going nuts as he was too fast to catch to redirect. (Staffyx kelpie) Finally I bought a chain house line. He spent months clanking around (I considered renaming him Jacob Marly😂) however it has made a huge difference in hid behaviour...taking time to be consistent and enforce boundaries has paid off now that he's a one 1/2. I find he is needing it less and less
Im getting a dog from the shelter next week so this is super timely for me. I mean it is not a puppy but Im pretty sure this advice works for dogs of any age
I got a dog stroller for this reason, I can take the puppy out into new sound sites and smells, and don't have to carry them. it made sense to be able to get a puppy that time in before they can be on the ground. also, every meal, make it a training time, they train for their food, their food and meal as a reward. As a puppy, they should not be fed out of a bowl; train with their meal. there is also high value, like a different treat other than food or a jackpot. There is meal food for the end of the session or a difficult spot, random, so the dog never knows when it's coming, using it as a boost basically. try to end on a positive. house line leash is also agree very important. I knew all 3 of these before this video, but it's good you put this out for some people; not everyone has heard this.
This is not necessarily just a training problem, it can be a temperament issue.. i had similar issues with my puppy but i dont think i could have done anything different..
I've never heard the term "house line" before, but I used that method with my Toller pup especially when he'd graduated from the crate but I still didn't trust him for the entire night. He was on a 6-foot leash to my wrist or the bedpost, which allowed him to move around a bit but still be close.
Used a lead inside ... Hoping that when she goes for walk she will happily walk beside me .. Puppy 6mths old ..we live on a back section so she doesn't see traffic..I take her to a park where I have her on an extension lead .. when she is worn out I take her to the car park to watch the traffic .. she knows stay .. by hand signal .. fetches ball and returns .. bit of nipping on hands when I take collar on or of .. worst is digging up lawn and tippy out potted plants .. I take her outside regularly for wees .. loved this video as I feel she won't be freaked out by traffic ..
We've been retraining a rescue dog who totally ignores treats outside, but is super motivated by attention. Once we clicker trained him, training outside was SO much easier
Hi JM, What an amazing video. Finally, a trainer takes the time to explain some of the most likely reasons and the importance of early development. The first time I see a trainer do that online. You are an ace! Naturally, there can also be other reasons such as genetics, past negative experiences, etc., etc. But more often than not, it's the early development. Professional breeders / trainers who have an in-depth understanding of canine behaviour start even earlier, at 3 weeks of age, with ENS (early neurological stimulation). Developmental periods differ slightly by breed, but only talking about a few days up to around 1.5 weeks. But it can make a huge difference, as during that first 3-8 weeks, there is, in simple terms, a non fear period, which starts to close from around week 6 to week 7. Using that period properly in early development can make a huge difference. To the ones who mentioned they are about to get a pup or plan to do so in the near future and are serious about having the best dog possible, here's some advice. 1) Follow JMs advice in this video. Also, it is great advice, you need to know what you are doing. Get assistance if you don't. 2) You can not unlearn what a dog has learned. Yes, you can modify and retrain, but you'll always run the risk of re-occurrence. Getting it right from the start is key. 3) If you can, get your pup at 6 -7 weeks old to maximise the time you have for early development. I you can't, make sure that the breeder you chose will do early development with the pup and agree on what that will include. 4) For first-time puppy owners, I would recommend that you get the book: DogInsight from Pamela Reid, Ph.D., CAAB. That book covers what JM mentions and much more, including some training. Pam Reid is one of the world's most respected scientists when it comes to canine behaviour and learning. It's an easy read, it will open your eyes and help you set you up for success. In my opinion, this book should be a mandatory read for every first-time dog owner before getting a dog. Unfortunately, many "trainers" lack the scientific knowledge of proper early development. Thanks again, JM, for sharing your knowledge, which I am sure will create a better world for canines and their owners. 🙂
This is all super good information. I did all the right things. It’s also mostly the kind of info that Zak George gives so I am confused on the ❌🤷♀️. Also if your vet is saying don’t take your puppy out get a new vet. They can still get used to the car and the park and all of that. Just carry them as shown here.
Great video - thanks..... We are four weeks into bringing a 9month old terrier-cross rescue dog into our lives... so far so good..... I will definitley try the house line tip...
Thank you for this video, the content is so helpful and thinking about my previous dogs and how I did exactly that - carried them around. To my current reactive dog, it makes loads of sense. These videos are perfect for people with puppies or thinking about getting one. Also for moving forward with a dog already reactive. Thank you is not enough 🙏
I have 5 months Cretan Hound we rescued him from street in Cyprus, I took him for his first walks when he was 6 weeks old to introduce him to our life. I use a leash whenever he is naughty, he’s doing well of course still needs to learn more but I think he is a good puppy specially that he was a wild dog before.
Thank you for this great video. My two-year-old lab mix is very reactive now. This didn’t seem to start until after she was spayed though. I definitely didn’t take her out much when she was a puppy because I was warned to not do that until they were fully vaccinated. I truly wish I could turn back the clock and start over with her because she’s so fun and loving.
Kennel. My dog was the Tasmanian Devil and learned that being annoying paid off. I wish I had just put him in a kennel inside and ignored him when he was trying to aggressively get attention and played with him when he went outside. A house line would not have been enough because he ate absolutely everything, then bit you. And structured play, and clear communication, and feeding in his kennel, and long line to practice heal and release, and no dog parks, and watching people go in front of the house, and the sound of kids...
High value treats absolutely have their place, but not every single time you train. Use them when you're teaching your dog something new to get them super engaged, then once they understand switch to lower value treats and eventually you can fade out the treats entirely
I had incredibly smart dogs for 20 yrs. Australian Shepherds. Best tool I learned to use was words. That breed has a large vocabulary. Chewing on a shoe. I would trade. “THAT is a bad dog” take the shoe. “THIS is a good dog” give approved chew toy. Repeat. Usually this was needed twice in the overall bad dog event. I seldom had chronic problems. I had one that was reactive out of 20 dogs that I lived with. She just needed the right job. Once she found her person, everything went smooth for her. The hardest thing I ever did was learn that not all dogs have a 200 word vocabulary. I thought my poor Golden Retriever was a special needs kid for the first six months. Until I figured out she would only listen to me when I used her name, and then take a second to process the command. She is great with recall and “leave it” (my favorite command to teach, by far).
My first beagle was socialized very young but as an adult he became protective right after being neutered. Our mistake was letting him sleep with us after that. Our current doesn’t sleep with us but hangs out with us on the sofa. He’s not protective at all. I thought he would be because he barked at everyone, adults, kids and other dogs down the street while pulling me. I ended up with a prong collar. He’s calmer but still does his beagle aroooh to people he knows. He’s more interested in dogs but because he’s a hound any treat stops him in his tracks. We used a house line we he was a puppy but got lazy and we have two holes in our area rug. Will definitely follow through next time.
😂 I need to remember these things with my cat. We carry him when exposing him to new or scary things (he’s less anxious going into Petco than he was, but it’s big and echoes). He never eats treats outside, even when hungry, so praise and scratches or pets are used. He does wait for the command before meeting someone new (dog, cat, or human), but it’s more he accepts that we say it’s safe than he’s eager to meet them. He passed today’s walk test- came when I called, circled back to check in with me periodically in his exploring (and enjoy some scratches), didn’t over-react to cars driving by or a neighbor outside on the phone. He was confused by the way the crows’ cacophony echoed off a house, a bit nervous, but didn’t crouch or hide. But we also didn’t encounter any squirrels. 😅
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If you’re struggling with a reactive dog, no matter where you are in the world, we can help! Book a FREE consultation call with our expert team and let's work together to tackle your dog's behaviour challenges. Click here to get started today: ycaonline.co.uk/youtube
I take a beautiful German shepherd out once a week from a rescue centre, he is dog reactive and has to wear a muzzle, he’s such a lovely clever and alert dog otherwise and so deserves a home. Is there anything I can do in the limited time I have with him to help him with his nerves and reactivity. I normally book him a secure pen as he hates wearing the muzzle and I want him to enjoy time out but I would love for him to find a home and I don’t think he will if he is reactive. He’s only about 12-18 months old.
@@charlottetaylor9867 get a real trainer and stop asking questions to RUclips “influencers.”
I checked out your link and honestly it comes across like a phishing website.
I do not know who wrote the text on there, but it looks like it was written by someone who has started learning English over the past 2 years.
On top of that you claim it is free on RUclips, but on the website it clearly states you will show us 3 things.
The first of which is "Proven training system". You state here the following: "Our step by step proven training system that we’ve used to train over 12,000 reactive dogs, we do not offer access to this anyone except our clients."
Secondly:
"Fix Your Dog's Reactivity
How to solve your dog’s reactivity for PERMANENTLY, without having to constantly worry about when and where you’re able to take them."
You just mentioned this for 5 seconds, then went on about what a great programme you have, but you did not fix reactivity or provide any information on how to fix it.
Lastly:
"Guaranteed Perfect Recall
Our ‘Perfect Recall’ strategy that guarantees your dog will come back to you every time, regardless of what’s around them."
YOU HAVE NOT EVEN SAID A WORD ABOUT THIS.
The phonecall was rather disappointing. I do not recommend anyone to call you and listen to a 30 minute sales pitch. Money is clearly all you want. The phonecall is bait, does not teach people a thing and its sole purpose is convincing people to join the programme.
This is on par with: "hello sir I would like to talk to you about your car's extended warranty"
Please also note that this is basically false advertising and against the law. In the discovery call you have taught me nothing you said you would.
I have informed my local authorities of these practices, reported this to RUclips and Google as well.
You should be ashamed of the way you conduct business. Preying on desperate people for money.
The biggest mistake with socialisation is thinking it means up close interaction with other people and dogs but it’s Also learning to ignore other people and dogs if that’s what you ask for.
A puppy should ‘wait’ for EVERYTHING…once wait becomes a well established command it’s easy to get puppy to wait while others move around them without too much drama. Both ways of socialising are equally important. Ignoring is as much socialising as playing is.
Training is just building blocks but it’s incredible to see how many puppies get set up to fail.
I didn't learn this until taking my dog to puppy classes. I grew up reading a lot of training books and it's not really a concept that I remember being really discussed in the books. Saying "socialisation" brings up the idea of interacting with others and the world, not ignoring things. So even though the term is technically correct, I think it creates a mental short cut and people don't fully understand the definition of it, and think it's common enough sense not to ask. "Make sure you really socialize your puppy" easily sounds like "expose your puppy to a lot of things". Nothing in there really suggests it should involve training and structure.
Exactly
@@Hi_Im_Akward Social to humans means interaction with other people. Which we all leave in the human society so it makes more sense when we listen to this word, socilazing a dog means that we bring an animal to our standars of society, with that been said what we need to do is introduce how our society works with rules and bountries. Exposing a dog to all these new informations is completly wrong without teaching them what calmness means and how to live to our society. We dont talk to all the people we meet on our way to our job for example so why my dog should be forced to do the same. Bountries needed in all kind of relationships for humans or dogs , so we are responsible to lead and guide our puppies to our society with correct and safe way for a better life for them. By training your dog you strenghthen your bond with them , building bridges for clear communication and it needs time and work. Its good if we get the information from books or social but applying them is a differnt story. Thats why dog trainer is and always will be a solid and needed proffesion. Cheers to that
I've recently been teaching a dog that got hyper whenever he saw another dog that we wait and ask first - it's a process... but we're getting there 😁
Example #2 was where I was screwed from the start. By the time I 'acquired' him (more like he acquired me) this 'rotten/pit' had already been habituated to full on hyper excitement around other dogs (not aggressive but it looked like it because he saw every other dog as play time) and most dogs take that as aggression. The general public sees a rotty or a pit as nothing but a fight in the making - too bad. He had one of the best personalities of any dog I ever had (before that I had been exclusively a 'lab' person) but I never was able to get a handle on the excitement.
I probably should have sought out professional help but having been a dog person my whole life I thought I would be able to make the proper corrections - wrong. We just had to do deal with it - that said, he was an absolute joy around the brand new 10 week old dachshund puppy....70lbs of muscle and teeth vs a 3lb terror and he couldn't have been a better playmate - they were great together. Many great memories of those two - Go figure... :)
When I trained my anxious rescue dog and even my two cats, I found that using massive and enthusiastic praise as a “base level treat” and only giving a major treat on rare occasions to make a point works well! But honestly, praise in a high pitched voice can be its own reward for pets who love and trust you
100% agree! I use praise for things he knows with treats at random then high value when something new clicks
Yes this worked AMAZINGLY for my two blacklab/yorkie mixs and even my black cat. Does nothing for my German shepherd though. She couldn't care less about my praise. Buuuttt... bring out her favorite ball? She'd do anything for that ball. It's largely about finding out what motivates your specific dog. My dog Misty would jump through hoops (literally I trained her in agility) for a pat on the head and to be told she was a good girl, Bella (dog) only cares about food so I used treats for her, and Auri the German shepherd is 100% in it for the balls. Dogs with different personalities go for different rewards with different levels of interest.
Works for my cats too!
It's not the high pitched voice, it's your demeanor and body language.
In case of women/girls, this often boils down to their voices being at a higher pitch.
In case of men, well, we're men. We usually do not have high pitched voices.
BUT it is extremely important to acknowledge your dog's behavior when they obey/ignore a command and take action on it.
The interaction between (hu)man and dog is what it important. Attention is key.
@@R0CKETMVNTV nah I cited my degree on that one but thanks for playing and making stuff up!
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
I needed to hear that today 😂
@@kellybramm 🐶❤️🐶❤️
Thank you. My 3 month old pit mix rescue isn’t listening without treats. I’m tdoing my best daily and just a bit discouraged but am determined to get her trained.
@74TK08 The key with treats is that we want to use them every time the dog performs the behavior until they can do it 10/10 times without you having to lure them or entice them in that distraction level (we want to start over in each new environment). Then you can start to slowly ween them off the treats by giving them every other time the dog does the behavior for a while, then go to giving treats every two or three times, and so on. But, occasionally, you want to drop back down to every single time (for example: You're giving treats every 10 times he does it, so then start giving treats every single time for a few repetitions, then go back to every 10 times). The key is that we're mixing it up so he knows he's gonna get a treat, he just doesn't know WHEN.
You want to ensure that he can do the behavior 10/10 times before starting this process, though, otherwise he may regress, because he doesn't know it well enough yet. You also want to do one behavior at a time. Don't just get rid of the treats altogether. Ween him off them for "sit," and then when you're giving treats every 20 or 30 times for that, you can start on "down," for example. And, finally, don't be afraid to take a step back. If you start weening off the treats, and he becomes less responsive, then go back to every single time for a little while, because he's telling you that he doesn't know the behavior well enough yet to do it without them yet.
You've got this! If you need anything, please feel free to reach out anytime! 🐶❤️
Also, take a moment to check your emotions. If you're nervous, take a breath and shake it out. If you're getting frustrated, just stop for the day. And this depends on the dog, but with my dogs, I've figured out that if I am not making any kind of progress after about 4 tries and they don't seem to be getting it, then I'm probably doing something wrong. Usually I haven't broken it down into small enough steps.
It’s good to know that even the experts make mistakes. I personally have to unlearn trying to be nice to everyone. People always want to say hi to my dog, but he just doesn’t like being touched by strangers. Hence, barking and growling. I have to advocate for him better. (Trying to do better every day.)
My puppy sometimes growls when I’m in a store with her and some people invade her space. I think the people need training!😊
I'm the opposite too blunt. GET YOUR DOG AWAY FROM MY DOG. My dog isn't reactive but I'm picky I want her to STAY balanced. Keep your overexcited dogs and humans away from us.
I will not try to pet any dog unless they approach me and indicate they want to interact. I give them respect.
@toadhall5041
That's a great start.
Please also get consent from the human handling the dog. They may know something you don't about the dog's triggers, or they may be working on certain things (such as only getting pets while the dog is sitting).
People seem to have forgotten that you should NEVER approach a dog you do not know without the owner's permission.
As the owner is the best person to tell if the dog is ready for the interaction or not.
I have 2 rehomed dogs with behavioral issues and it's been hard work training them. Any time someone tries to comeup to us without permission I will literally get upset with them and say: DO NOT EVER approach a strange dog like that.
People do not seem to realize that animals aren't living stuffed toys for their entertainment. They mean well, surely.
But when I grew up, this was common knowledge. It's all but forgotten now.
I taught my pup basic obedience commands right from day 1. The command ‘leave it’ works for everything out there. He’s a fiery little Yorkie mix who can walk right by other dogs AND squirrels when I say LEAVE it. I taught it using tiny bits of food at first. Once he got it I removed the food. For praise. Every time.
I have a dobdrman. I started taking her everywhere with me the day I got her. She was 8 weeks. I worried about her getting sick but I was more worried about the short window if I had waited till 16 weeks. She is very confident today. I'm glad I did it that way. She experienced so much at a young age! Made her a confident dog
Thats the best way
I did the same and now she's 6 months old and reactive
@@heatherspenshawsame, some dogs are predisposed to it genetically which is why good breeders are so important. Backyard breeding is something I hate with a passion hoenslty, though mine was a rescue from finding her pregnant mother on the streets so it was a bit of a wild card getting her and I was prepared for that going into it. Now she's doing tons better with consistent training, she's not reactive like she used to be (not even close, I have to tell people she's reactive because it's no longer obvious)
We now have a 9 month old euro doberman and she is a social butterfly. She definitely has a working line in her genetics. She's just go go go. But we've socialized her by going out to places, stores, birthday parties etc. She absolutely loves everyone and every dog. She does play a little rough with other dogs, but not aggressive in any way. She plays with the doberman behind our house all the time. They're practically best friends. Very very good temperament. Just has that insane drive I have to deal with 😂😂
I think this is why street dogs make great pets. They just have so much experience in the world. My girl was a stray and she was such a smart girl - very confident in almost every situation. Those types of dogs are a complete joy and one is lucky to have them.
That's very big of you to admit that about ones self. And thank you for sharing it with us
This is the best explanation of the reasons behind reactivity that I have seen. Totally saving it!!
Should watch Beckman's Dog training and TheDogDaddy.
Unfortunately, this video is superficial compared to that. And they teach nothing without making you pay first.
The channels mentioned above are basically providing all of this information for free and more. The only thing you have to pay for with them, is when you physically go to a training session with them.
@@R0CKETMVNTV I think I've seen a little of Beckman's. I personally detest TDD's methods, as I think he is unwise in putting the dogs into situations the way he does, in how harshly he handles them, and in his "I handled the dog once and now it's fixed forever" mindset. I fear that he is causing those dogs more problems down the road, not fewer.
I am not looking for direct training advice--I am a dog trainer myself, although amateur. I can learn from about anyone and appreciate the opportunity to do so. However, as I spent significant money, time, and stress to earn my knowledge and a degree of proficiency, I do not expect other trainers to give away their hard-won wisdom for free. I will say that I am quite grateful when they do, tho!
I haven't watched many videos on this channel yet, but I can recommend Upstate Canine Academy and Canine Revolution Dog Training as channels I appreciate and whose methods seem quite well-balanced.
All of this is true. Wish i had known it years ago with my first Border Collie Dash, rip my sweet girl. On second baby boy now. Secret I learned, if you already exercised and played and they seem hyer. Especially a work/herding breed they are probably over stimulated and tired. Another walk makes it worse, make them sleep! ❤ Just like toddlers.
Wow.,we would wonder how our sheltie puppy could still be full of energy after her third walk of the day. Makes sense!
My cat does this 😅 if I'm going to bed real late and I've been playing with her, sometimes she'll seem to get extra crazy instead of tired out. I finally realized if we just go to bed she'll fall asleep almost right away
This is where schedule can play a big part. When a walk or playtime is at a specific time and a nap or bedtime is scheduled, the energy level tends to reflect that schedule. Our cat sometimes tries to get us to play after “bedtime” (which starts with closing him in the bedroom and our human tasks before sleep) but once the light goes out, he starts to settle down. Bird cages are often covered to help them settle when they’re overstimulated, so I assume it’s both reducing stimulation and the schedule/routine that leads to stopping zoomies at 10pm.
Dogs sleep on average 16-20 hours a day. But theyre also fiercely loyal.
If you take them anywhere, they will come.
Excellent advice. We have a 11 month old standard smooth Collie and adhere to a daily crated uninterrupted nap.
Holy shit man….you answered so many of my questions that nobody managed to answer ever…I cannot express how grateful I am for this video. I’m just at the part where you mentioned how to get a puppy to accept treats outside and use positive reinforcement. Ah god bless you really!
Best advice ever! I raised my GSD on a houseline until he was 18 months old and showing he was becoming trustworthy (earning his freedom). He is 5 years old now and still has not destroyed anything in my home. He is the most amazing dog ever. Yes, I also made several mistakes when he was a puppy and wish I could go back and do it all differently but heck, he still turned out to be incredible.
My 2 boys showed up on my front porch at 12 weeks, give or take. I was able to easily expose them to a number of situations, building their confidence and tolerance. Then Texas snowpocolypse happened in Feb 2021. The boys were about a year old. We got displaced and lived out of a hotel for 4 months. That, IMHO, was the best thing for them. Every day, a new dog, a new situation, and new people to meet. I have a Pyrenees/A.Akita/German Shep/Chowchow mix, and a Rat Terrier/Chihuahua mix. Since then, they have both become therapy dogs ❤
This is probably the best training video on the internet.
These are all essentially what i learned in puppy class, and all of it has been incredibly helpful. I do still think "jackpot" high rewards are useful to have on hand, but what i learned was those are used for particularly difficult things. Like if you have a dog struggling to understand something or it takes several steps to train it, jack pot high value rewards can help mark when they get something right and it can keep them working hard on the "minimum wage" because they know a "bonus" is possible.
As for the reactivity, i think this actually has helped me understand it more than i ever have. I've had multiple reactive dogs and didn't know why. My two dogs now are a lot better than past dogs, but its still always a work in progress. I think i might have a better idea on how to work on it now. Thank you for the video this is very helpful.
Puppy class is the very best imo. I have raised 2 bomb proof dogs. Both went to puppy class.
@@tigertalks1567,
My best behaved dog didn’t benefit from puppy class. She was singled out and picked on by the teacher, and we quit and got a refund after the third class, when the worst behaved dog’s owners pointed out what I had noticed about the teacher.
Everyone we met asked me if they could have that dog.
I think a lot of the behavior is genetic.
I trained her myself, and made a few mistakes, like spaying her too young, but she was the best dog ever.
My current youngest had a really bad trainer. She marketed herself as a positive only trainer, but she used sneaky negative tools. This dog has regressed considerably, _and I paid for it_ ($100/hour).
Great job explaining.
I’ve been a dog trainer for over 40 years. I’m from the generation of “choke chains” as standard training equipment. I started transitioning to the positive reinforcement/reward based in early 2003.
There is a bad habit all trainers tend to fall into. “The thinking, of my way is the best”. I however have always tried to listen to or watch how other trainers do it.
The basics of training are the basics. But we “old dogs”. Me. Can get in a rut of terminology and always explaining things in our way.
Language changes with each generation and us older trainers can fall off just sounding old.
Thank you for this video. As a dog professional myself, I wish there were more trainers like you. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for this video. My dog is Ranger Spirit I rescued him from the county shelter of seven years of age he was used a guard dog. I was his last chance. Socialization just means creating a sense of neutrality in different environments. It should be done strategically. What you are describing is reactivity to over socialization which is very common. Most folks do not understand what socialization is. There are so many dangerous myths out there on how to bring their best friend into the outside world. I think you are amazing for sharing this video. By the way I work with last chance dogs and fearful dogs. Preventative care is essential. Hope Ranger is doing well!
I can’t stop laughing listening to every point you make . . . . .all us right down the line! The only thing we got right was the house line . . . .no better puppy training tool out there. Dogs getting reactive at the door? Put them on a house line. They can’t behave better if they don’t understand what we want them to do. Thanks so much for sharing!
Really appreciate your channel, you get down to the basics of a dog’s chemistry and their resultive behavior based solely from their mechanics. I’ve always leaned towards “working dogs”. 65 years old and my latest is a Dutch Shepherd, got him as a rescue, didn’t know the breed, talk about over the top “reactivity”. Living in a large city, I’ve made every mistake you mentioned and with the help from people like you, am slowly trying to dial back what I thought I knew. Hopefully the old cliché, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks” doesn’t apply to my little over a year old, hope to be a great dog!!!
Love this, you crack me up because this is so true. We became displaced during a hurricane so now we are out in the country instead of town and he almost lost his mind when a deer went across the back yard. He is almost three, a minpin. H has been to high priced training so I know he can behave. We are going out today, alone. No grandkids, no mom’s dog, basically eliminating new distractions and headed for a field to do some focus work. I had to use a house line just yesterday because he is picking up the older house dogs bad habits. It really works.
Well I hear you.... but There is one flaw here...🥰 I adopt senior dogs. Yes you can teach old dogs new tricks. One 8 years old black lab mix.. highly reactive, barked uncontrollably... to bikes, door knocks, skate boarders, other dogs... in two months all bad habits were broken.. in 6 months I needed no leash, this alpha dog followed me everywhere. This was a backyard dog, that barked relentlessly.. with me, the only time Bell barked, was a knock at the door. B ut only one woof. What did I do. I made her follow me, behind me, or even at my side and if she reacted, she went into a two or three minute time out. She had to lay there, with my hand on her until she relaxed and surrendered. She attributed if she does that thing,.. she would get a time out. She and I were best buddies. Best dog ever. And yes I did not use treats... rarely. Good idea on the house line... but then again.. I never get puppies. Too many older dogs that need loving homes.
@catherinewheel4851 It is like a child time out, but the dog has to lay down right where he is misbehaving. I put the dog in a lay down pose, them laying on their side. I repeat the would calm., down. calm.. down... in a relaxed voice. I am firm... yet relaxing. I am not asking . It is a command. Yet my hand will be on the dog applying a gentle pressure so they know they must lay down. This is the best I can describe it.
@@kyrareneeLOAinteresting--we have an 8 year old pound dog that is reactive--we r not sure what to do and who to consult--the biggest issue though is that she seems to think my smaller shy chi is a squirrel and tries to bite his leg... seems like the new dog just has too many issues...
omg! i am so glad to have read your comment. i have the similar experience. my dog started training when he was 10 years old in human years by a k9 instructor in the military i served as a medical volunteer for about a month. no treats also coz my dog never liked it according to the instructor. but behold, just a month of training my dog was a fast learner as any other dog no matter the age that the instructor even asked if he had previously been trained. i told the instructor that just the basic, potty train, come and sit and after that nothing, not even socializing coz he was a house dog on a 360 square m lot. his only exposure outside was going to the vet.
I loved your video. I’ve made all the usual mistakes. And I have six dogs. Because of your video, things are going to get a lot better at my house. Thank you.
I wished I'd had this advice when my girl was a puppy, she is super reactive now at 15 months old Staffy x. I laughed at the beginning with the "at 12 weeks cramming in training & vets and everyone on the internet saying, don't take your puppy out until it's had its shots" part. Made all these mistakes as well, now at a loss and need a behaviourist to help reverse all these mistakes I have made! Won't be making any of these mistakes again in future, but feel for my girl that she had to pay for my lack of knowledge and listening to the wrong advice or advice overload.
Great video. I somehow avoided these mistakes and listened to the "balanced trainers". She had puppy classes and training with other dogs early. Another thing that worked is relying on me for guidance. She has to wait when I feed her till I release her. Wait at door openings until I go through and release her. When seeing other dogs she sits at my side until they pass or we agree to meet. She didn't have the run of the house when a puppy and we crate trained her not as a punishment but as a safe place to go. She likes the guidance and now is enjoy agility training and is now just over one. She is the most balanced, smart dog we have had.
I hope you do sessions at the RSPCA where people adopt, and any shelters, you are good at making this simple for people who are going to adopt.
This video answered so many questions! Still working on reactivity because I did this exact mistake. Not sure why the hate on Zach though, he has also said a lot of these things.
Wow. Speechless. This is hands down the most valuable information out there! Thank you for sharing and I hope every new dog owner watches this before they get a puppy!
Great advice ..... I've been training my dogs this way for years, resulting in calm dogs at home and outside.
I didn’t over-socialize and ended up with an anxious greeter as well, sometimes you can’t win…
i have 6 puppies, they all got the same experiences and training. Still, 2 of them are more reactive than others. 1 chases every bike, one barks on other dog, and 4 are cool calm babies. So it seems like it is not only nurture, nature plays huge force too.
another important part of early training process with pups is teaching them to switch from action and excitement to rest and relaxation. This also makes a huge difference when you start to teach them how to play with other dogs. I've noticed it's easier to maintain control when they learn how and when to quit the game and go into relaxation. That way they also learn how to better manage themselves in different kind of situations.
Unbelievable how much truth you're talking about here in this video. I wish I had heard you two years ago. ❤
Facts! Kudos to you, self reflection is so important. I foster rescue dogs since 2010 and do exactly what you describe. Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪 Claudia
100% aligned - it is exactly what we try to convey to puppy owners in our dog school in Germany - really like your summary, spot on!
Love that you referred to the wheel of emotions!
This is super useful! I’m a first time owner and used a house line from minute 1 and I’ve had zero destruction of house things (lots of toys have met their maker though 😂). I’ve also made a point of giving her outdoor experiences from 8 weeks old but I’ll definitely take your advice about high value treats.
I have done exactly the same as described here and ended up with a reactive caucasian shepherd now 2 yrs old who won't listen and if on lead pulls like a freight train towards other dogs, over socialised her at 4 months as a puppy to avoid her becoming reactive, exact opposite result obtained, also is over stimulated by cats or any small fluffy object, sorry squirrel too slow, recall only when nothing better to chase, sniff or pee on.
Caucasian shepherd- theres your problem.
@@s.b.5259no
It’s not the breed or the dog, but the human behind the dog. Human can rationalize and realize the mistakes made & correct it, if we just blame the dog nothing gets fixed. Lease pulling is a symptom of over excitement. Chasing other smaller animals is a symptom of prey-drive. So possibly you have high prey drive mixed with over-excitement, which is red-zone with no leverage. There are techniques to fix these without even hurting your dog but involves it changing your mindset.
@@Sepo-i9eit really is the Breed! Breeds bred to work, highly intelligent.. bred to herd. Retrieve, guide , sniff, and fighting dogs. Can’t be trained usually to do other jobs ! It’s obvious
I found a method that stopped pulling in a day. You put the leash on the INSIDE the house and go a couple steps towards the door and then stop. If your dog doesn't stop give them a correction, pull on the leash sideways, for a caucasian you gotta pull pretty hard and then release. Your dog will probably go like "WTF bro", so go a couple of steps and check if your dog is still with you or not. If he also stop when you stop go to the door and fling it open but don't go out. If your dog starts going out give them a correction again and turn around. Leave the door open. Repeat this until your dog stops when you stop. Then step out the door but only go a few steps then stop. Check if your dog stops. And so on and so on. I almost gave up on my dog because walking was a torture but now he is doing soooooo good. I basically do this couple of steps towards the door then stop and pop the leash if he doesn't stop EVERY TIME before going out. It takes less than 1 minute to check if he is in the right state of mind to go out for a walk. We literally tried everything else but nothing helped except this method. You just don't head out the door if he doesn't stop when you stop. Even during the walk I randomly stop and reset him before we reach critical points on our way (crazy barking dog behind a fence etc.) and it is essential that you don't let him barge out any doors or gates. He needs to be with you.
This is a very good advice, and I love, how you turn your own mistakes into gold for others. Hats off, good sir.
Wow..straight talking no nonsense easily explained. Even if i do know all this stuff it’s like reset and serves as a reminder.
I’m glad you shared this because I did the EXACT same thing with my first border collie. He’s great now but I wish I’d started right from the start. 💔
This is so awesome and concisely explains so many pitfalls my clients used to go through before they called me! I wrote a free document to try and explain and try mitigate them! Thank you for sharing and your candor
I don't have a dog, but I know where I'm coming when I eventually get a dog! Brilliant information, thank you for sharing!
I adopted a German shepherd at 14 months old and I had to learn very quickly but I have learnt a bit from you which was very positive.
A bit from a positive only and I was just being mindful and building on my relationship.
Playing games, using, food and trying to hold more value than anything else.
I'm still learning but he's always been ok with me and he's not bothered by people and I can walk past dogs on the other side of the road with out any commotion and I find it quite entertaining when my dog ignores yapping little dogs.
I am still working on things but the hardest problem is family but luckily I prefer my dogs company to all these ignorant asshole that create problems.
Really underrated video every dog owner should see this
Spot on. We overstimulated our Welsh springer and we’re working to get his reactivity/ stress bucket back down. His food is given throughout the day with extra good kibble on recall ( could be the good shit could be praise or could be normal kibble: the 33% payout helps with anticipation). Dead right with if he can’t get to another dog. Very reactive where off lead he’s way better.
It’s a bugger but he’s improving.
This was so helpful! My dog sounds + looks a lot like Ranger. She’s super smart + great in new situations, but she LOVES other dogs + has become quite reactive + doesn’t listen to me when she sees them. I couldn’t figure out how to fix the behavior + I’ve tried many things. But this helped me understand why the behavior started in the first place + provided guidance on how to redirect her attention. Really appreciate it! Xo
My first dog was out at 16 weeks ( she was a rescue pup, spent what little life she had at the time in a shelter) she's nervous, easily overwhelmed and ive had her for 8 years now. My newest pup I've had since he was 8 weeks and he was out in the sling for our walks 2 x a day from the get go, he came to the pub, wandered around the village (in a sling) . We also had access to a private field that nobody else is allowed in, low risk, so I used to let him run around in there. He's the most confident, friendly obedient dog I've ever had 😂
Just watching this as it came up on my feed, wow I really appreciate your no bull theres the mistakes I made spin, subbed
I didn't get my pup until he was 16 weeks old. I missed a very valuable learning window. Because of this, socialization and training took even longer, I think. He also thought every dog was a playmate. He's much better now, but it was a long road.
I have a basenji mix, I am so thankful I finaly learned this. Beleave it or not he loves attenton from humans he doesnt know well.
My rescue dog Ethan has an insatiable lust for my cats. The house line is an EXCELLENT idea. Thanks .
I use a house line even on fosters of all ages as well. I don’t have to worry about house training accidents or damage from a chewer. It also allows me to learn the dog and us to bond.
Even before I got my Connie I'd gotten one of those funky dog backpacks so I could move about and let her explore the world with me, she could run alongside me or even take a nap or keep distance as she needed to in her safe space.
It's great to hear your slice of life experiences, as always your input is invaluable and shows its merit in Ranger and co.
I wish modern training methods caught up to dogs rather than heel to sponsorships.
WOW! Thank you. Subscribed and can't wait to learn more. My 22kg staffy pulls on the leash. I've tried tips from YT vids and nothing works. She walks fine off the leash but laws require us to put her on the leash. When I put the leash on her it's like she suddenly thinks she is working. Think ....sled dog and she has to pull me everywhere. The closest thing I got to getting her out of this was to give her something to carry. While she was carrying something, she was happy that she had a job to do and didn't pull. But now, the novelty has worn off for carrying something and she won't even accept anything into her mouth to carry. Do you have a video I can hopefully pick up some ideas to get her to stop pulling? I'm 52 now and getting a bit too old to be dragged along.
Thank you! I’ve had adult rescue dogs but now have my first puppy. She is an Am Staffie with a bit of boxer mix. Now at 4 months. I’ve had her since 8 weeks. I use the house line, very helpful crate time is for sleeping, very well trained in this. She does have episodes where she loses it and the zoomers take over her brain. She will nip and not listen. I use the under the collar hold gently and get her to settle. She does a little. I notice when she’s tired and gets over stimulated she forgets all she’s learned. Thank you for the advice on treats. Very helpful. I’ve been giving her too much, too many. I’ll work on that. Socialization going well. I got her out from the time I’ve had her and notice her confidence building. Your advice is great.
Super video and some "new" information. My poodle has become semi-reactive through many of the reasons you explained. I've confused him with all my blah-blah. I can't say how frustrating it is to have him ignore me and my commands. Thanks for tips. Keep it up and wish you lots of success. Ciao for now, David Q.
Very helpful. I have a 16 month lab retriever who is pretty good mostly but likes to get hold of your hands with his teeth when in the garden. It is not biting but holding however it can hurt and when I say no he zooms around the garden like a loon! This is the one behaviour we have been unable to stop so we take him into the garden on a lead which is a total pain.
Your dogs were SO CUTE as puppies!! Their little faces and their wobbles are absolutely adorable ❤😢 my parents have had 2 dogs that are anxious and reactive with either dogs or people. Their current boy, Beau, is so wonderful and friendly and bright, it's refreshing. However, he has been getting more reactive since I'm not visiting as often to train him. If they hadn't inherited a little dog that keeps him socialized, I wouldn't be surprised if he became dog aggressive too. I'll definitely keep these tips in mind when working with him, and hopefully when I eventually get a dog of my own, too. Thanks for sharing your experiences and being transparent with mistakes--it can help prevent us from making the same ones.
I've been having the same issues with my dog, she's going to be 1yo tomorrow and I can't stress enough how this video helped me understand.
Absolutely love your honesty! It’s easy to make these mistakes 😂 but we all learn with more experience
This info just saved me money 😅 I kinda felt I was paying way to much, and this just proved I need to slow down the “high value” treats a little
Very helpful video, i m from greece and we rarely hear any other opinion other than what u "must" do.
Great video! Especially tip #3 is where I went wrong. After having raised five great Golden Retrievers with no behaviour issues at all, my now 18 months old male Shiloh Shepherd was a totally different story! I had focused too much on socialization, which let to frustration and a lot of leash reactivity. He's getting a lot better, but we're not all the way there yet...
Scroll up to the comment about over socialization. I think we did that with our GSD. In that comment, they said that socialization should create neutrality in a multi dog scenario (loose interpretation). We created or rewarded excitement.
Addit: see @allisonlevy616
She said that socialization is creating neutrality in
I have an intact (for now) male Chihuahua who is not quite 1 & 1/2. I did all the things you said you would have done. I got a crossbody sling and took him everywhere I could think of, trains, buses, loud things like construction sites, cement mixer, busy city streets, near school when the kids were coming out, ‘meeting’ cows, sheep and horses. And yes, dogs. Only belonging to people I knew, trusted, and whose dogs were calm tempered, from a mini Dachshund to a very large Rottweiler. These dogs are still his core group. He is super friendly to everyone and thing. But, isn’t there always one. Around 10 months while on walks he would bark like mad when he met another dog. I trusted him and would ask their dog’s temperament and if we could approach. Once he got to the dog it was all the natural dog stuff. It was as if he knew he was almost invisible due to his size and was announcing himself (my imagination). Then it dawned on me that by getting to meet the dogs was rewarding him. Now he has 2 commands for this. If a dog is approaching and he is starting to get excited it’s ’Easy’ and sometimes that works and he just whines. When he barks it’s ’Enough’. I will usual have to hold him in a standing position. I then put him in a sit until he calms and I give him the ‘release’ command. This may have to be done more than once. This is a small, do-filled village and everyone knows each other by their dogs. I will sometimes ask people with calm dogs to help by just hanging around with their dog as if we weren’t there while I put Chester through those steps and adding staying in sit while the dog is still there. We seem to be making progress both ways but I just made this stuff up so I don’t know if I’m doing the ‘right’ thing. He’s my 7th dog and I’ve never experienced this before…
Thank you for this! Very informative! I always wondered where I went wrong with my dog, this is why. I truly thought I did everything right with socializing.
Zak George methods are great for PUPPIES. I follow Joel Beckman’s methods for training older dogs.
This all makes sense to me, especially since I have been doing it the way you first learned and I am seeing that results are so so and I can't trust them. Will start over and use all his kibble to train outdoors. Thank you so much!
Just goes to show that we learn as we go...even though we wish we could go back in time and not make the mistakes.
From a dog trainer, good advices bro !
I would add and explain how to make a crate a positive and safe environment from the puppy, both for not giving access to things we don't want the dog to chew bite , eat ext while we are not focused on them or not at home.... And to avoid future separation problem .
Good job tho
Awesome video we all make mistakes and this makes it so easy to hear what you have learned! Thank you, great job!
4 month old puppy, have worked on training every day, and hitting some really frustrating points with preteen behaviour. Going to work with some of these, thanks for the tips
Fantastic advice Incredibly frustrating that this isn't easily highlighted when you read all the stuff you do before getting dog or in "how to raise your puppy We read mountains before getting our first dog NO mention of reactivity or how to prevent Just lots of rubbish about how to get them to sit or give a paw However most of the people I know that got first time puppies with us DONOT Have reactive dogs and look at me as if I'm mad when I mention mine is We have put soooo much work in SO why aren't all "first time pups reactive? And as we can't turn back the clock how the heck do we undo it I am so frustrated with doing what 3 behaviourists have told me to do and still have a reactive dog
great video but what do we do if we made all of those mistakes already lol? we didn’t get our dog until he was 6 months old and we’ve made mistakes too, so now what? I appreciated you showing that even a dog trainer can make mistakes too.
❤ Excellent advice. Sharing with my group 🐾😊
This is amazing information! Thank you! Im hoping to get a puppy in the spring and will definitely be using these tips. My last dog, a 7 year old rescue, was scared of everything and definitely not socialized. Going for walks was so stressful for both of us. I really want to do right by my next dog.
Great advice. I've made all those mistakes too in the past. With my most recent dog I've only allowed socialisation at group training sessions but even there you can meet reactive dogs. Part of reactivity is genetics of the dog too and some are very feisty. Some dogs will never became reactive how ever many mistake you make, where as some are more prone to go down that route.
A house line have been essential for my dog, I gave up at using one point...he was chewing his off... I was going through leads like crazy. Eventually as he was 8 months I was going nuts as he was too fast to catch to redirect. (Staffyx kelpie) Finally I bought a chain house line. He spent months clanking around (I considered renaming him Jacob Marly😂) however it has made a huge difference in hid behaviour...taking time to be consistent and enforce boundaries has paid off now that he's a one 1/2. I find he is needing it less and less
Im getting a dog from the shelter next week so this is super timely for me. I mean it is not a puppy but Im pretty sure this advice works for dogs of any age
Thank you for seeking a shelter dog to adopt!
I got a dog stroller for this reason, I can take the puppy out into new sound sites and smells, and don't have to carry them. it made sense to be able to get a puppy that time in before they can be on the ground. also, every meal, make it a training time, they train for their food, their food and meal as a reward. As a puppy, they should not be fed out of a bowl; train with their meal. there is also high value, like a different treat other than food or a jackpot. There is meal food for the end of the session or a difficult spot, random, so the dog never knows when it's coming, using it as a boost basically. try to end on a positive. house line leash is also agree very important. I knew all 3 of these before this video, but it's good you put this out for some people; not everyone has heard this.
This is not necessarily just a training problem, it can be a temperament issue.. i had similar issues with my puppy but i dont think i could have done anything different..
I've never heard the term "house line" before, but I used that method with my Toller pup especially when he'd graduated from the crate but I still didn't trust him for the entire night. He was on a 6-foot leash to my wrist or the bedpost, which allowed him to move around a bit but still be close.
Used a lead inside ... Hoping that when she goes for walk she will happily walk beside me .. Puppy 6mths old ..we live on a back section so she doesn't see traffic..I take her to a park where I have her on an extension lead .. when she is worn out I take her to the car park to watch the traffic .. she knows stay .. by hand signal .. fetches ball and returns .. bit of nipping on hands when I take collar on or of .. worst is digging up lawn and tippy out potted plants .. I take her outside regularly for wees .. loved this video as I feel she won't be freaked out by traffic ..
We've been retraining a rescue dog who totally ignores treats outside, but is super motivated by attention. Once we clicker trained him, training outside was SO much easier
Hi JM,
What an amazing video.
Finally, a trainer takes the time to explain some of the most likely reasons and the importance of early development. The first time I see a trainer do that online. You are an ace!
Naturally, there can also be other reasons such as genetics, past negative experiences, etc., etc. But more often than not, it's the early development.
Professional breeders / trainers who have an in-depth understanding of canine behaviour start even earlier, at 3 weeks of age, with ENS (early neurological stimulation).
Developmental periods differ slightly by breed, but only talking about a few days up to around 1.5 weeks.
But it can make a huge difference, as during that first 3-8 weeks, there is, in simple terms, a non fear period, which starts to close from around week 6 to week 7. Using that period properly in early development can make a huge difference.
To the ones who mentioned they are about to get a pup or plan to do so in the near future and are serious about having the best dog possible, here's some advice.
1) Follow JMs advice in this video. Also, it is great advice, you need to know what you are doing. Get assistance if you don't.
2) You can not unlearn what a dog has learned. Yes, you can modify and retrain, but you'll always run the risk of re-occurrence. Getting it right from the start is key.
3) If you can, get your pup at 6 -7 weeks old to maximise the time you have for early development.
I you can't, make sure that the breeder you chose will do early development with the pup and agree on what that will include.
4) For first-time puppy owners, I would recommend that you get the book: DogInsight from Pamela Reid, Ph.D., CAAB. That book covers what JM mentions and much more, including some training. Pam Reid is one of the world's most respected scientists when it comes to canine behaviour and learning. It's an easy read, it will open your eyes and help you set you up for success. In my opinion, this book should be a mandatory read for every first-time dog owner before getting a dog.
Unfortunately, many "trainers" lack the scientific knowledge of proper early development.
Thanks again, JM, for sharing your knowledge, which I am sure will create a better world for canines and their owners. 🙂
This is all super good information. I did all the right things. It’s also mostly the kind of info that Zak George gives so I am confused on the ❌🤷♀️. Also if your vet is saying don’t take your puppy out get a new vet. They can still get used to the car and the park and all of that. Just carry them as shown here.
Great video - thanks..... We are four weeks into bringing a 9month old terrier-cross rescue dog into our lives... so far so good..... I will definitley try the house line tip...
Excellent your metaphors and tips stay in your mind training the owners beforethey train the dogs
Thank you for this video, the content is so helpful and thinking about my previous dogs and how I did exactly that - carried them around. To my current reactive dog, it makes loads of sense. These videos are perfect for people with puppies or thinking about getting one. Also for moving forward with a dog already reactive. Thank you is not enough 🙏
I have 5 months Cretan Hound we rescued him from street in Cyprus, I took him for his first walks when he was 6 weeks old to introduce him to our life. I use a leash whenever he is naughty, he’s doing well of course still needs to learn more but I think he is a good puppy specially that he was a wild dog before.
Thank you for this great video. My two-year-old lab mix is very reactive now. This didn’t seem to start until after she was spayed though. I definitely didn’t take her out much when she was a puppy because I was warned to not do that until they were fully vaccinated. I truly wish I could turn back the clock and start over with her because she’s so fun and loving.
I can relate bro. Carbon copy of my experience. I didn't know better 🤦.
Nonetheless that dog is my life. Couldn't live without him.
Great advice here, thank you
Kennel. My dog was the Tasmanian Devil and learned that being annoying paid off. I wish I had just put him in a kennel inside and ignored him when he was trying to aggressively get attention and played with him when he went outside. A house line would not have been enough because he ate absolutely everything, then bit you. And structured play, and clear communication, and feeding in his kennel, and long line to practice heal and release, and no dog parks, and watching people go in front of the house, and the sound of kids...
So how did you break Ranger from his reactivity?
High value treats absolutely have their place, but not every single time you train. Use them when you're teaching your dog something new to get them super engaged, then once they understand switch to lower value treats and eventually you can fade out the treats entirely
I had incredibly smart dogs for 20 yrs. Australian Shepherds. Best tool I learned to use was words. That breed has a large vocabulary. Chewing on a shoe. I would trade. “THAT is a bad dog” take the shoe. “THIS is a good dog” give approved chew toy. Repeat. Usually this was needed twice in the overall bad dog event. I seldom had chronic problems. I had one that was reactive out of 20 dogs that I lived with. She just needed the right job. Once she found her person, everything went smooth for her.
The hardest thing I ever did was learn that not all dogs have a 200 word vocabulary. I thought my poor Golden Retriever was a special needs kid for the first six months. Until I figured out she would only listen to me when I used her name, and then take a second to process the command. She is great with recall and “leave it” (my favorite command to teach, by far).
My first beagle was socialized very young but as an adult he became protective right after being neutered. Our mistake was letting him sleep with us after that. Our current doesn’t sleep with us but hangs out with us on the sofa. He’s not protective at all. I thought he would be because he barked at everyone, adults, kids and other dogs down the street while pulling me. I ended up with a prong collar. He’s calmer but still does his beagle aroooh to people he knows. He’s more interested in dogs but because he’s a hound any treat stops him in his tracks. We used a house line we he was a puppy but got lazy and we have two holes in our area rug. Will definitely follow through next time.
Spot on with the treats! My puppy just isn't interested in treats, so it's kibble only
😂 I need to remember these things with my cat. We carry him when exposing him to new or scary things (he’s less anxious going into Petco than he was, but it’s big and echoes). He never eats treats outside, even when hungry, so praise and scratches or pets are used. He does wait for the command before meeting someone new (dog, cat, or human), but it’s more he accepts that we say it’s safe than he’s eager to meet them.
He passed today’s walk test- came when I called, circled back to check in with me periodically in his exploring (and enjoy some scratches), didn’t over-react to cars driving by or a neighbor outside on the phone. He was confused by the way the crows’ cacophony echoed off a house, a bit nervous, but didn’t crouch or hide. But we also didn’t encounter any squirrels. 😅
Thank you so much for all your information.