Nicely done. I buy, sell, fix trailers and there are a few things you should know about your axles. First "Bearing Buddies" will not help at all with a non boat trailer. They are designed simply to not allow water to get sucked into the bearings when it is dunked into the lake after a tow to the lake and it cools down. They will do nothing on your trailer and you're better off with a cap. Side note, your new front axle is a grease gun able axle with a zerk and port to feed both bearings, your back/old axle will always have to be greased by hand. Second the bearing will always warm and expand as you tow so a little wheel wobble is what you want. Your bearing galled because it had no where to expand when it was warm. Looser is always better. Only with the wheel on should you adjust the bearing. Spin the wheel and tighten the nut to smash out the grease and seat the bearing against the race. Loosen it up until no pressure then lightly tighten it until you feel just a little drag and then back it off 1/4 turn; done. Now take your needle nose and channel locks on your first trip. After you drive a decent distance and stop for gas run around your trailer and put your hand on every hub. If you feel any warmth, that bearing is too tight and will fail. Take your cap off, pull the cotter and loosen the nut 1/4 turn. Trailer looks great and still love your lift to the ceiling contraption.
I don't think his frame is rated for 7000 lbs even though his axels can support 7k lbs. His frame needs to be thicker metal and probably 1 inch taller to support this weight.
@@HealthSupercharger Ya it should carry 7000, I built a trailer for my boss one time and he specified a 3" channel frame and the first load he carried was an E350 extended van . Steel is amazingly strong
I've always thought there should be some sort of bleeder added behind the rear bearing so as you add grease to a bearing buddy you could open the bleeder and it would push the old grease through the bearings and out the back rather than ultimately blowing out the rear seal. My boat trailer uses 90W gear lube bath this seems so much better than grease. Love your channel.
Hey Doug, looking at your old bearings, that pitting is called chatter. It happens when bearings aren’t properly greased and or to loose or to tight. Watching you pack your new bearings. I saw that you rubbed grease around the outside of them. But you didn’t pack grease on the inside. You have to force grease to the internal part of the bearing. They make a grease packing tool that is inexpensive or you can do it by hand. Put a small amount of grease in the palm of your hand and use your other hand to push the bearing into the grease around the edge of the bearing. I’m sure you can find a RUclips video on this procedure if you look. Just saying. The bearing you greased on this trailer will fail prematurely. Also makes me wonder about your bearings on ratchet and mauler. Maybe you did the proper grease packing procedure off camera that we didn’t see. I don’t know. Just trying to help you out.
Appreciate the advice, and I agree I need to get more grease in the bearings. Ironically I just purchased a tool that I can use with my grease gun to pack the bearings before I put them on the axles. I think that's what you're talking about. Don't worry about Wratchet, his hubs are from a 4Runner and come pre greased from the factory. Same for the rears on Mauler, it's just the fronts. But if I remember I packed those pretty good.
Great video. Let me add a few tricks of the trade for your bearings. Always use the cup grease method when loading your bearings. This insures every bearing gets fully covered. 2nd. Always grease your axle before sliding on the hub. 3rd. Always torque the axle nut to specs to seat the bearing rollers and the wheel seal. 4th. Just use caps for utility trailers. Bearing buddies are for boat trailers Thanks again for sharing. Waiting to see your next adventure.
When you add brakes, they should be fitted to the rear axle which sounds counter intuitive, but if placed on the front the equalizer will force the rear axle downward and lift the front making the tires more prone to locking up. My buddy has been in the travel trailer and RV business his whole life and informed a high end boat trailer company that they were putting their brakes on the wrong axle and they corrected from then on.
@@DougBugBuilder That's why I said it was counter intuitive. When he explained it to me after the boat trailer situation and you think about the torque reactions, it makes perfect sense.
I enjoy the way that you reason through things logically. Pro tip, with the outer bearing removed, thread the nut back on the spindle and use the hub as a slide hammer. Couple of shots and out comes the inner bearing and (usually) a reusable seal!
Nice video. I'm in the process of replacing my bearings right now and found this really helpful. Not sure what I'm in for since the grease fitting was damaged and I don't know how much grease was actually there. Thanks again.
Doug Bug, Since you used two different design of axles, the equalizer probably is not setting horizontally when the trailer tires is sitting on the ground. You can make it close to horizontal by installing the rear axle below the leaf springs to set the spindle height lower in relation to the spring. The equalizer can rock better to distribute the load in an uneven road surfaces. I included the correct procedure to pre-load trailer bearings. Stay Safe.
I think to level the equalizer I'll just make a set of shackles a bit longer to bring it back level. I knew it would be off, I just didn't know how far off it would be.
As a welder, I think you did a great job, but I would have welded up along the spring hangers instead of across the frame. Great video. Edit, One more thing I really like your square tube axle, looks home built and also looks strong, good job.
Watching you tap the edge of the bearing cup into the hub with the punch had me cringing, best way is to use the old bearing race to seat the cup. Sit the old race in the new cup and hit with a hammer or preferably a press, then throw it away. No damage to the hub and it fully seats the cup, quick and easy Have done heaps that way, use to buy and restore trailers.
@@DougBugBuilder Run the flapper wheel around the OD of the old race so that it is slightly smaller than the hub bore. Then it won't get stuck in there and still works as a driver.
Absolutely love that winch set up. Really need to do the same to my single axle trailer due to the fact that when I haul my SxS with its rear engine configuration the balance is not correct either. But since single axle load capacity is well within range of SxS weight maybe just going to move single axle rearward.
when I use equalizers for tandem axle setups, I always use either a greaseable bolt (has a grease passage going through with a grease fitting in the bolt head) or I drill and tap a grease fitting into the equalizer for all 3 pivot points (I usually make my own equalizers anyway and I incorporate greasing into the design anyway) I have seen way too many trailers where the equalizer pivot bolts wear to the point of breaking because they didn't get greased. I also make my own grease point chart attaching it to the trailer. what works better than those bearing buddies is tapping the backside of the hubs between the seal and the inner bearing, I then put a hole in the factory dust cap and use a push plug. pop the plug out hit the grease fitting with grease until fresh grease comes out the hole, pop the plug in and good to go.
This is so true. Have a trailer in my shop right now from this exact thing. Shame the manufacturers won’t install these new. It’s all about the end price I guess
golf ball size grease in palm slap bearing into ball pack ur bearing lol, neat gragae using one finger dante style lol.. fantastic film just gave u big hint clue how to look up packing ur bearings ..... great knowledge, try the hint latex or nytril gloves if grease scary for u lol
For a bump stop/travel limiter, you can put a piece of rubber hose through the middle spring hanger. Stuff the hose with rubber rope or a smaller diameter hose. When the equalizer travels up, it hits the rubber instead of the frame.
I'm guilty of welding/grinding without a respirator, but I don't think I'd ever prioritize the cleanliness of my garage over the healthiness of my lungs. Just food for thought.
I highly recommend water resistant grease such as one would use on a boat trailer. It resists moisture that will try to creep in after a long run and the weather is cold. Synthetic is best if you can find it.
It looks as if the bearings have been overtightened. Due to thermal expansion, when using the trailer, the initial preload became too tight. Thus the rollers sank through the grease and they got destroyed. Common rule on these types is; to tighten them, so that the washer under the nut still can be moved (just) with an screwdriver. If you have one, see the procedure in a VW Bug repair manual.
@@DougBugBuilder Some say: tight, -¼ turn, +⅛ turn, but I prefer the thrust washer check. Also, because you changed the races, and they might not be 100% seated, you might want to give them a check after a drive.
Could be wrong on this, but I think your problem with the pitting on your rollers and your race are the result of two different factors. One is the likelihood that your trailer was parked with a relatively high weight load on board without being moved over a protracted period of time. The second is the phenomena of compression electrolysis whereby two different metal alloys, when compressed, exchange metal due to interactive electrolysis. You cannot polish-out this disparity once it occurs because while it might work temporarily the reaction will recur so the solution is to increase the bearing quality as well as a higher-heat grease formula. Mike Kirwan - Kenmore, WA
Great work overall. But if you notice, the rear axle has a higher spindle than the front axle. Therefore the wheels will not be lined up! 2 front tires will be lower to the ground.
Good day Interesting video. A neighbour 's front wheel came off pick-up {back in 80's} outside bearing or little one let go, nothing too hold tire on. Thanks
You really need to get another straight axle, so your axles are the same type. It will be bad for the suspension to run 2 different kinds of axles. When you load your trailer correctly with tongue weight, you run the chance of the equalizer maxing out and a bump can actually cause the front shackle on the rear axle to invert when the rear axle unloads a little.
Yes the fact that there is a straight axle on the front and a drop axle in the rear is going to cause issues from suspension travel to possibly tire wear problems. I would invest is another rear axle as soon as possible. Another think to consider is to loosen all suspension hardware along with u bolts and tighten these with the trailer on the ground under load. Good luck and the trailer looks great!
Brakes are easier to put on than you think, the axles already have the flanges installed for the backing plates. I would put the brakes on both axles if you have the extra 250 bucks. Been there done that!
Nice job! I feel like your bearings failed because of poor lubrication. I normally place grease in my palm and force it into all of the voids in the cage.
Strange to see a car transporter trailer without brakes. I'm over in the UK, and any trailer over (IIRC) 750kg (1650ish lbs I think) needs to have braked hubs on it. I'm assuming it's all different over there?
I have never seen anyone afraid to get their hands dirty with grease. That is what soap and water is used for. Rubber gloves are also used so you do not get your hands dirty.
You won't regret it. This from a person who experienced a sidewall blowout on my travel trailer and didn't even notice it. I know it's a little late, but I replaced the whole axle on my boat trailer, hub to hub and it really wasn't that expensive. It was well worth the piece of mind.
At first the axles seem too far back, but then I remember you haul rear engine stuff. Curious of what your tongue weight will be when both are loaded and if your equalizers will be level.
The tongue weight was great with Mauler. Trailer was super stable. Not sure on Wratchet yet. I need to get him up there (between the tires) so I can weigh things. Then move him forward or back as needed. You are correct, most of the weight is back, so I kept the axles way back there.
I thoroughly enjoy the channel and the builds, BUT... there are so many red flags on this one. Two different axles (one round and straight, one square and a drop), no brakes for a trailer with 7000 pounds of total capacity (3500 pounds and above rated trailers are required to have brakes), IDK if this makes a difference but when you fit the springs the shackles were up and when you mounted the springs the shackles are down. Concerns Doug, I'll still watch and follow.
Hang in there buddy, this isn't done. In future videos I'll be adding brakes, fenders, and correcting the equalizer off balance from the different axles. It'll be carrying Wratchet which is my pride and joy, so I'll be sure the trailer is up to the task. But I appreciate you pointing out your concerns to keep me on the right track.
Does the axles sitting at two different heights above the springs affect the suspension at all? The old axle has an elevation to the spindle, the new axle has the spindle in line with the axle, causing them to be at two different heights from the springs....
It doesn't affect it in handling or anything like that. But it does make it so one axle is closer to the trailer frame. Going over large bumps sometimes I can hear it contact the frame. That's not good. I don't recommend it if you can avoid it.
Im first. Lol That is heat galling. It was melting the race surface and then smashing it back on. I would only tighten a little to seat your grease then undo and tighten finger tightness and run high temp pink fiber grease. I overloaded my trailer to 3800 on 1 ton axle & had no problem coming to Florida! I’ve never heard of any torque setting but I literally only use my fingers after preloading the grease once. I watched how you tightened it and it looked like what I do when I’m preloading. Not that my way is right. Also I take my laser gun and if they reach more than 130° at hwy speed I feel as if I’ve got them too tight. After about 50 miles they always run around 90° to 120° depending on Arizona winter or summer. Take care Hope that helps good luck
@@vicferrarisgarage not really now I feel 😔😞 I'm sorry I'm just really excited that I actually got to meet a real RUclipsr since nobody likes my tick tock videos
I'm glad for you that you can buid a trailer and it's legal in your country. In my country they are very strict no build no autorization nothing, it's sucks 😭😭😭
The issue you found on the bearing race is called pitting and is caused by moister getting into the bearing. There were either already wet when installed or introduced when you repack them. It could also be the grease you are using has too high of a water content.
FYI The "machining marks" on the edge of the seal/bearing area is not machining marks. That axle has pressed on stainless steel sleeves for a smooth and replaceable seal contact surface. Usually on axles meant for boat trailer usage as corrosion and pitting of that area is an issue.
hi caution how u place the centre suspension mount. No more forward than 50/50 of trailer deck . Double rockers in the centre mount is least desirable . Leaf suspension type of Double roller eye works smoother than what u fitted Leaf u bolts should behave Never seize applied on then threads, install a hardened washer then double nut The nuts your using are crimp lok /top lok /peened /crown lok can damage the threads going on/ off. Some shackle bolts can be had with lube points Brakes twin axle 12inch electric drum would be ideal , far far better than twin axle 10 inch . Betone clay grease is very water resistant
Pre-Loading Trailer Wheel Bearings Pre Loading Bearings: Whenever you install new hubs or new bearings and races into an old hub, you should pre-load the bearings. Pre-loading the bearings assures that the races in the hubs are 100% in place against their machined stop points and keeps the hub from wobbling after a few miles. To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place. Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque. Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the races. Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device (some reverse lubricating spindles use a tab washer for the retaining device).
I did preload them like you said, but after I loosen them and retighten them I go a little tighter than finger tight. I haven't packed them with grease yet, so I can still get in there and make adjustments if needed. Thanks for the tips.
•Helpful tip• When removing the oil seal, I just remove the outside bearings and then put the nut and washer back on the spindle, yank it hard a couple of times and the oil seal usually will pop out. Saves time and the possibility of scoring internals by driving a screwdriver in to knock it out.
I'm thinking you didn't check the bearings when you purchased the older Axle? I was taught. on a tandem axle trailer the forward axle is set back 1" per Foot of Trailer Deck Length..so a 12 Foot Trailer deck would put the Front axle 12" back from Center Line of the Deck. brakes will be a nice addition as well. You do great work!
The axle I just bought I actually disassembled, checked everything, painted, and repacked the bearings. It was the axle that was on the trailer that had the issue, and I though that one was fine. 🤷♂️
Hey Mate, I watched your video since I am in the process of building my own trailer. I am really interested in your lifting setup. Do you mind showing us how you set this up please. Or perhaps you have a video on it already. Thanks heaps. Great video btw. Frank
What’s the reason for going from single to tandem axles? I might have missed that. I have a single axle toy hauler for UTV, that I am thinking to convert it tandem axles.
I needed more capacity, it seemed better to go tandem axle verse a larger single axle. The tandem axle is smoother on the road for sure. But I do think going with a larger single axle would have been simpler.
The grease in that hub is light colored which means it’s had water in it for a long time. Water has mixed with the grease and over a period of time from sitting the water has corroded both the bearing and the race I suggest change both races check your seals change that check the seal on your hub put it back together and you’re good to go.
Me running to the comments to see everybody shredding his bearing packing skills. Unless he pulls this back apart or adds bearing buddies those bearings wont last 200 miles. After recently buying a new 14k trailer and having the bearings getting warm while towing the trailer completely unloaded just to get it home if found that that factory apparently used his method for greasing the bearings. Ended up adding almost 1-1/2 tubes of grease to get the (factory installed) greaseable spindles full.. CRAZY. Yes I know bearing buddies aren't installed to alleviate greasing the bearings but in this guys case (slight phobia of dirty hands) it would have been better than what he did. But that being said otherwise this guy has great fab skills and that ultra clean shop is outside my skill set. wink wink.
Good job on the work done but axles are back too far for load weight distribution. Good chance of trailer sway and/or too much weight put on the tongue depending on how the trailer is loaded. Either way.....not good in my opinion.
@@DougBugBuilder I just watched this video and it was my 1st video of yours i have watched but i actually said that to myself!! It looks like you REALLY didnt want to get any grease or dirt on you. HaHa You look like you do very good CLEAN work and thats a good thing but every now and then, a guys gotta get them fingernails in the grease! Im glad you addressed the bearings not getting greased right in your above comment because they were not even close to being done right. That old grease looked really thick and i have never seen that thick grey type before, could it have been too thick to actually lubricate the old bearing good enough? Anyway, really good job on the new axles.
hello I just Find your Channel it Looks Cool Im thinkng to Build my First Trailer Cuz I cant Offer to bay one my Question is Wher Did u Get Your Springs And Axels Did u Order From China or Local ? Thanks
Sure screwed that little project up. Wrong axle, improperly packed bearings, improperly adjusted bearings. Bearing buddies are useless on that application. Old bearings had rusted at some point. Rugs have no place in an area where your grinding and welding.
Mate those bearings are going to go again because of the way you greased them up. You really need to pack them in with lots of grease. Put a lump of grease in the palm of your hand, grab your bearing and pack it in from the back of the bearing until it comes out on the front side of the bearing.
A trick for removing inner bearings put the hub back on the spindle and reinstall the nut then pull out on the hub hard and fast pops the inner bearing and seal out easily
So one axle is a drop and the other is straight? That will put your equalizer out of balance so to speak. You might consider putting the rear axle under the springs.
These solid axles often have a tiny bit of castor and nose in built into their geometry, so it would mean cutting off the mounts and welding them back on the top. Not a huge job for a guy of his talents, but worth mentioning as a lot of folks just flip them upside down, then wonder why the trailers wandering all over the place on a bumpy road. Personally, I might have used this as an excuse to leave out the equaliser all together and stack the middle spring mount one above the other to get the wheels 5 or 6" closer together. With the straight axle on the back it could have the shackle links on the trailing edge of both springs, this would give it fewer wear points, and it would have less tyre scrubbing during tight manoeuvres. On flat roads he's not going to miss the equaliser, but on rutted tracks this setup would be slightly more likely to bottom out a spring if he's motoring alone while heavily loaded though.
I wasn't sure how much of an issue that was going to be. I think if I do anything I'll adjust the lengh of the shackles on the equilizer so it's level.
@@timgroh8616 As I said, a lot of these axes have a tiny bit of toe and camber built in to aid trailer stability, so from new they have a "This way up" and correct direction of travel. Most people don't know this and assume the stub axles are totally parallel, so when they see the spring perch plates welded on the bottom they just assume the easiest option for them is to just flip the axle upside down when putting it on the other side of the spring. This makes that built in geometry work against the trailer being stable at speed. Because of this, the CORRECT way to move an axle from one side of the springs to the other is to cut off the spring perches, and remake them on the other side of the axle rather than flipping it over.
The way you put grease in those new bearings is why they failed. Need to properly pack them to prevent future issues. Here is an oldie but goodie YT video on how to do it properly. ruclips.net/video/BhL1uAp_WCw/видео.html
Don't worry, the front axle is a Dexter E-Z lube. After I installed the hub I packed the entire thing with grease using the axle zerk. And I'm installing brakes on the rear axle. So when I grease those new hubs I'll be sure to grease properly. But I appreciate the honesty and watching out for me. 👍
Nice garage, grinding with expensive cars next to you isn’t good. When I seen your “packing” job I knew what. Check with your home insurance & make sure it’s paid up & covers fire. Grinding & welding with carpet is a sure way to start a fire.
That’s not how you pack bearings. You should go on RUclips and find out how to properly repack bearings. Maybe that’s why your bearings screwed up,hmmm
2:54 why is your axle welded in place?!! 13:02 from the way you DIDN’T pack the bearing that’s why 7:48 the bearing failed. Sorry, I know I sound like a critical jerk but I’ve likely done thousands of bearings at this point in life and I don’t recall any come-backs for early failures (or on my own stuff for that matter).
If you "Packed " the old Inner bearing like you did the new one that is why it failed, Not enough grease Repack that bearing. your axle position is wrong, You have to much tongue weight, Dexter Axle has a ton of information on the position and spacing. Take a look , Also In many states a Single axle trailer isn't required to have brakes, However In Washington and Idaho if the trailer has more than one, then all axles are required to have brakes ,might check your jurisdiction. not that anybody will hunt you down and cite you , however after the crash the citations are written. You carry expensive side by sides Why wouldn't you want to protect them in a panic stop? Like everybody I am an expert, I am a trailer parts distributor in the Northwest.
Nice trailer but, its illegal in most states where are your brakes, most require brakes on anything over 3000lb axles. Have a panic stop with that loaded Yikes
![HOW TO ACCURATELY PLACE AND SQUARE TRAILER AXLES ] Step by Step instructions](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/N08rpHeQnQA/mqdefault.jpg)
Nicely done. I buy, sell, fix trailers and there are a few things you should know about your axles. First "Bearing Buddies" will not help at all with a non boat trailer. They are designed simply to not allow water to get sucked into the bearings when it is dunked into the lake after a tow to the lake and it cools down. They will do nothing on your trailer and you're better off with a cap. Side note, your new front axle is a grease gun able axle with a zerk and port to feed both bearings, your back/old axle will always have to be greased by hand. Second the bearing will always warm and expand as you tow so a little wheel wobble is what you want. Your bearing galled because it had no where to expand when it was warm. Looser is always better. Only with the wheel on should you adjust the bearing. Spin the wheel and tighten the nut to smash out the grease and seat the bearing against the race. Loosen it up until no pressure then lightly tighten it until you feel just a little drag and then back it off 1/4 turn; done. Now take your needle nose and channel locks on your first trip. After you drive a decent distance and stop for gas run around your trailer and put your hand on every hub. If you feel any warmth, that bearing is too tight and will fail. Take your cap off, pull the cotter and loosen the nut 1/4 turn. Trailer looks great and still love your lift to the ceiling contraption.
Lots of good info in there, especially about the bearing expanding when they get warm. Thanks for all the tips! 👍
Wow, ... super informative! Thank you 🙏 😊
I don't think his frame is rated for 7000 lbs even though his axels can support 7k lbs. His frame needs to be thicker metal and probably 1 inch taller to support this weight.
@@HealthSupercharger Ya it should carry 7000, I built a trailer for my boss one time and he specified a 3" channel frame and the first load he carried was an E350 extended van . Steel is amazingly strong
I've always thought there should be some sort of bleeder added behind the rear bearing so as you add grease to a bearing buddy you could open the bleeder and it would push the old grease through the bearings and out the back rather than ultimately blowing out the rear seal. My boat trailer uses 90W gear lube bath this seems so much better than grease. Love your channel.
Hey Doug, looking at your old bearings, that pitting is called chatter. It happens when bearings aren’t properly greased and or to loose or to tight. Watching you pack your new bearings. I saw that you rubbed grease around the outside of them. But you didn’t pack grease on the inside. You have to force grease to the internal part of the bearing. They make a grease packing tool that is inexpensive or you can do it by hand. Put a small amount of grease in the palm of your hand and use your other hand to push the bearing into the grease around the edge of the bearing. I’m sure you can find a RUclips video on this procedure if you look. Just saying. The bearing you greased on this trailer will fail prematurely. Also makes me wonder about your bearings on ratchet and mauler. Maybe you did the proper grease packing procedure off camera that we didn’t see. I don’t know. Just trying to help you out.
Appreciate the advice, and I agree I need to get more grease in the bearings. Ironically I just purchased a tool that I can use with my grease gun to pack the bearings before I put them on the axles. I think that's what you're talking about.
Don't worry about Wratchet, his hubs are from a 4Runner and come pre greased from the factory. Same for the rears on Mauler, it's just the fronts. But if I remember I packed those pretty good.
I’ve just always used the palm of my had until the grease squeezed out around the bearings and move around the race until it’s completely packed.
I’m glad someone pointed that out already.
Great video. Let me add a few tricks of the trade for your bearings. Always use the cup grease method when loading your bearings. This insures every bearing gets fully covered.
2nd. Always grease your axle before sliding on the hub.
3rd. Always torque the axle nut to specs to seat the bearing rollers and the wheel seal.
4th. Just use caps for utility trailers. Bearing buddies are for boat trailers
Thanks again for sharing. Waiting to see your next adventure.
When you add brakes, they should be fitted to the rear axle which sounds counter intuitive, but if placed on the front the equalizer will force the rear axle downward and lift the front making the tires more prone to locking up. My buddy has been in the travel trailer and RV business his whole life and informed a high end boat trailer company that they were putting their brakes on the wrong axle and they corrected from then on.
Wow thanks for the tip! I would have absolutely put them on the forward axle thinking that was better.
@@DougBugBuilder That's why I said it was counter intuitive. When he explained it to me after the boat trailer situation and you think about the torque reactions, it makes perfect sense.
I enjoy the way that you reason through things logically.
Pro tip, with the outer bearing removed, thread the nut back on the spindle and use the hub as a slide hammer. Couple of shots and out comes the inner bearing and (usually) a reusable seal!
I'll give that a try, thanks for the tip.
Nice video. I'm in the process of replacing my bearings right now and found this really helpful. Not sure what I'm in for since the grease fitting was damaged and I don't know how much grease was actually there. Thanks again.
Doug Bug, Since you used two different design of axles, the equalizer probably is not setting horizontally when the trailer tires is sitting on the ground. You can make it close to horizontal by installing the rear axle below the leaf springs to set the spindle height lower in relation to the spring. The equalizer can rock better to distribute the load in an uneven road surfaces. I included the correct procedure to pre-load trailer bearings. Stay Safe.
I think to level the equalizer I'll just make a set of shackles a bit longer to bring it back level. I knew it would be off, I just didn't know how far off it would be.
As a welder, I think you did a great job, but I would have welded up along the spring hangers instead of across the frame. Great video. Edit, One more thing I really like your square tube axle, looks home built and also looks strong, good job.
Thanks, appreciate the kind words.
Damn Doug a jacket and shoes , must be cold. I’m in Florida and it was 38 this morning and I can’t move much further south. That hoist system is nice.
If I'm wearing shoes you know it's cold! 😉
Watching you tap the edge of the bearing cup into the hub with the punch had me cringing, best way is to use the old bearing race to seat the cup. Sit the old race in the new cup and hit with a hammer or preferably a press, then throw it away. No damage to the hub and it fully seats the cup, quick and easy
Have done heaps that way, use to buy and restore trailers.
That's a good tip, I'll use that next time. I hear you on using hardened steel on hardened steel. But that's how I've always done it. 🤷♂️
@@DougBugBuilder Run the flapper wheel around the OD of the old race so that it is slightly smaller than the hub bore. Then it won't get stuck in there and still works as a driver.
Absolutely love that winch set up. Really need to do the same to my single axle trailer due to the fact that when I haul my SxS with its rear engine configuration the balance is not correct either. But since single axle load capacity is well within range of SxS weight maybe just going to move single axle rearward.
when I use equalizers for tandem axle setups, I always use either a greaseable bolt (has a grease passage going through with a grease fitting in the bolt head) or I drill and tap a grease fitting into the equalizer for all 3 pivot points (I usually make my own equalizers anyway and I incorporate greasing into the design anyway) I have seen way too many trailers where the equalizer pivot bolts wear to the point of breaking because they didn't get greased. I also make my own grease point chart attaching it to the trailer. what works better than those bearing buddies is tapping the backside of the hubs between the seal and the inner bearing, I then put a hole in the factory dust cap and use a push plug. pop the plug out hit the grease fitting with grease until fresh grease comes out the hole, pop the plug in and good to go.
Good tip on the greaseable bolts, I'll look into that.
This is so true. Have a trailer in my shop right now from this exact thing. Shame the manufacturers won’t install these new. It’s all about the end price I guess
golf ball size grease in palm slap bearing into ball pack ur bearing lol, neat gragae using one finger dante style lol.. fantastic film just gave u big hint clue how to look up packing ur bearings ..... great knowledge, try the hint latex or nytril gloves if grease scary for u lol
For a bump stop/travel limiter, you can put a piece of rubber hose through the middle spring hanger. Stuff the hose with rubber rope or a smaller diameter hose. When the equalizer travels up, it hits the rubber instead of the frame.
You never used flip-flop bumpers before or sandals
Cleanest Shop ever, it is amazing
I love the ceiling mounted hoist for the trailer!
Thanks, Saves a ton of space in the garage. 👍
I'm guilty of welding/grinding without a respirator, but I don't think I'd ever prioritize the cleanliness of my garage over the healthiness of my lungs.
Just food for thought.
Yeah breathing spray paint fumes ain’t no good either. I was choking just watching him
I highly recommend water resistant grease such as one would use on a boat trailer. It resists moisture that will try to creep in after a long run and the weather is cold. Synthetic is best if you can find it.
It looks as if the bearings have been overtightened.
Due to thermal expansion, when using the trailer, the initial preload became too tight.
Thus the rollers sank through the grease and they got destroyed.
Common rule on these types is; to tighten them, so that the washer under the nut still can be moved (just) with an screwdriver.
If you have one, see the procedure in a VW Bug repair manual.
Interesting technique, I'm curious now, I might pop one of the caps off and see if mine can be moved. ✌
@@DougBugBuilder Some say: tight, -¼ turn, +⅛ turn, but I prefer the thrust washer check.
Also, because you changed the races, and they might not be 100% seated, you might want to give them a check after a drive.
Could be wrong on this, but I think your problem with the pitting on your rollers and your race are the result of two different factors. One is the likelihood that your trailer was parked with a relatively high weight load on board without being moved over a protracted period of time. The second is the phenomena of compression electrolysis whereby two different metal alloys, when compressed, exchange metal due to interactive electrolysis. You cannot polish-out this disparity once it occurs because while it might work temporarily the reaction will recur so the solution is to increase the bearing quality as well as a higher-heat grease formula. Mike Kirwan - Kenmore, WA
Great work overall. But if you notice, the rear axle has a higher spindle than the front axle. Therefore the wheels will not be lined up! 2 front tires will be lower to the ground.
I can’t say anything else but well done if I was able to do this I wouldn’t have to spend $6,000 plus on a trailer well done sir
Thanks!
Are brass punches better to use in this case? ... I mean for installing races and such?
Yes, the brass is soft. So when hitting against the hub or the races the brass will dent but the hub or the races will not.
Good day Interesting video. A neighbour 's front wheel came off pick-up {back in 80's} outside bearing or little one let go, nothing too hold tire on. Thanks
Nice job Mike, fun video to watch, my guess on the corroded bearing and race, (old boat trailer) yep, talk to you later buddy
Yeah, I think your right.
The grease seemed milky when he tore it down.
@@kevinhornbuckle that was a good fix , should be good to go now
@@kevinhornbuckle It was, definitely had some water emulsified in there. That was on the axle that was on the boat trailer when I bought it.
You really need to get another straight axle, so your axles are the same type. It will be bad for the suspension to run 2 different kinds of axles. When you load your trailer correctly with tongue weight, you run the chance of the equalizer maxing out and a bump can actually cause the front shackle on the rear axle to invert when the rear axle unloads a little.
I can't argue with your logic. I'm looking at replacing the drop axle with a round straight axle. Thanks for the feedback.
Yes the fact that there is a straight axle on the front and a drop axle in the rear is going to cause issues from suspension travel to possibly tire wear problems. I would invest is another rear axle as soon as possible. Another think to consider is to loosen all suspension hardware along with u bolts and tighten these with the trailer on the ground under load. Good luck and the trailer looks great!
The piece in the middle goes like a T not an upside down T. I made that mistake .
Brakes are easier to put on than you think, the axles already have the flanges installed for the backing plates. I would put the brakes on both axles if you have the extra 250 bucks. Been there done that!
Nice job! I feel like your bearings failed because of poor lubrication. I normally place grease in my palm and force it into all of the voids in the cage.
Excellent work I would trust your work 100% 😊
Thanks!
Strange to see a car transporter trailer without brakes. I'm over in the UK, and any trailer over (IIRC) 750kg (1650ish lbs I think) needs to have braked hubs on it. I'm assuming it's all different over there?
In my state if it's over 3,000 lbs it needs brakes. This will be a little over that, so I will be installing brakes on it for safer braking.
Glad to see the "inspectors" both approve!
They're always keeping an eye on me. 🐕
@@DougBugBuilder We care about you brother.
I have never seen anyone afraid to get their hands dirty with grease. That is what soap and water is used for. Rubber gloves are also used so you do not get your hands dirty.
Is it overkill to REALLY pack the bearings in grease compared to a more casual and less intense greasing?
Hard to tell, fully packed they will get a little hotter. But I think in this case more grease is better.
You won't regret it. This from a person who experienced a sidewall blowout on my travel trailer and didn't even notice it.
I know it's a little late, but I replaced the whole axle on my boat trailer, hub to hub and it really wasn't that expensive. It was well worth the piece of mind.
At first the axles seem too far back, but then I remember you haul rear engine stuff. Curious of what your tongue weight will be when both are loaded and if your equalizers will be level.
The tongue weight was great with Mauler. Trailer was super stable. Not sure on Wratchet yet. I need to get him up there (between the tires) so I can weigh things. Then move him forward or back as needed. You are correct, most of the weight is back, so I kept the axles way back there.
I thoroughly enjoy the channel and the builds, BUT... there are so many red flags on this one. Two different axles (one round and straight, one square and a drop), no brakes for a trailer with 7000 pounds of total capacity (3500 pounds and above rated trailers are required to have brakes), IDK if this makes a difference but when you fit the springs the shackles were up and when you mounted the springs the shackles are down. Concerns Doug, I'll still watch and follow.
Hang in there buddy, this isn't done. In future videos I'll be adding brakes, fenders, and correcting the equalizer off balance from the different axles.
It'll be carrying Wratchet which is my pride and joy, so I'll be sure the trailer is up to the task.
But I appreciate you pointing out your concerns to keep me on the right track.
Does the axles sitting at two different heights above the springs affect the suspension at all? The old axle has an elevation to the spindle, the new axle has the spindle in line with the axle, causing them to be at two different heights from the springs....
It doesn't affect it in handling or anything like that. But it does make it so one axle is closer to the trailer frame. Going over large bumps sometimes I can hear it contact the frame. That's not good. I don't recommend it if you can avoid it.
I searched but couldn't locate it. Maybe I just overlooked it. Is there a video on adding the brakes on this trailer available already?
I didn't do a video on the brakes. I think mainly because I used hydraulic surge brakes and it seems like most people do electric brakes.
Nice job. I'm about to do this to a boat trailer.
Thanks, good luck with your build. 👍
Im first. Lol
That is heat galling. It was melting the race surface and then smashing it back on. I would only tighten a little to seat your grease then undo and tighten finger tightness and run high temp pink fiber grease. I overloaded my trailer to 3800 on 1 ton axle & had no problem coming to Florida! I’ve never heard of any torque setting but I literally only use my fingers after preloading the grease once. I watched how you tightened it and it looked like what I do when I’m preloading. Not that my way is right.
Also I take my laser gun and if they reach more than 130° at hwy speed I feel as if I’ve got them too tight. After about 50 miles they always run around 90° to 120° depending on Arizona winter or summer. Take care
Hope that helps good luck
Haha you may be first I sold the axle 😂😂😂
@@looserdownfab5219 ok if it makes you feel better I give you win. 😂
@@vicferrarisgarage not really now I feel 😔😞 I'm sorry I'm just really excited that I actually got to meet a real RUclipsr since nobody likes my tick tock videos
You earned it Vic...👍😉
Don't worry, you're a part of the trailer history now! 😁
Nice trailer.... funny thing, you painted all the weldings, picked up the floor dust and you didn't paint the wheels.... lol
I'm glad for you that you can buid a trailer and it's legal in your country.
In my country they are very strict no build no autorization nothing, it's sucks 😭😭😭
All I had to do is bring it in and get it inspected when I was done originally. I had the title changed from a boat trailer to a utility trailer.
The issue you found on the bearing race is called pitting and is caused by moister getting into the bearing. There were either already wet when installed or introduced when you repack them. It could also be the grease you are using has too high of a water content.
Really ! Thanks
FYI The "machining marks" on the edge of the seal/bearing area is not machining marks. That axle has pressed on stainless steel sleeves for a smooth and replaceable seal contact surface. Usually on axles meant for boat trailer usage as corrosion and pitting of that area is an issue.
Ahh, did not know that. Thanks for the info.
I wanna see that cable lift system you have, I need something like that to store my trailer.
Been waiting for this video I'm so excited to see how you do this
The bearings on your axle were perfect, turns out mine were junk! 😁
@@DougBugBuilder 🤔🤔🤔🤔 weird 🤔🤔
hi caution how u place the centre suspension mount. No more forward than 50/50 of trailer deck .
Double rockers in the centre mount is least desirable .
Leaf suspension type of Double roller eye works smoother than what u fitted
Leaf u bolts should behave Never seize applied on then threads, install a hardened washer then double nut
The nuts your using are crimp lok /top lok /peened /crown lok can damage the threads going on/ off.
Some shackle bolts can be had with lube points
Brakes twin axle 12inch electric drum would be ideal , far far better than twin axle 10 inch .
Betone clay grease is very water resistant
Maybe roll the carpets up while you grind. It’s easier to clean the hard surface.
I didn't roll up the carpets but I did roll up the dog bed to keep that clean. 😁
Pre-Loading Trailer Wheel Bearings
Pre Loading Bearings:
Whenever you install new hubs or new bearings and races into an old hub, you should pre-load the bearings. Pre-loading the bearings assures that the races in the hubs are 100% in place against their machined stop points and keeps the hub from wobbling after a few miles.
To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place.
Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.
Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the races.
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device (some reverse lubricating spindles use a tab washer for the retaining device).
I did preload them like you said, but after I loosen them and retighten them I go a little tighter than finger tight. I haven't packed them with grease yet, so I can still get in there and make adjustments if needed. Thanks for the tips.
•Helpful tip• When removing the oil seal, I just remove the outside bearings and then put the nut and washer back on the spindle, yank it hard a couple of times and the oil seal usually will pop out. Saves time and the possibility of scoring internals by driving a screwdriver in to knock it out.
Are you saying that the washer and nut will go thru the hub hole and will push the inner seal out nicely???? really wow.
@@HealthSupercharger in most cases, yes. Some you may need just the nut.
That's actually a great tip, thanks!
Can you tell us the dimensions of that trailer, great job!!!
I'm thinking you didn't check the bearings when you purchased the older Axle? I was taught. on a tandem axle trailer the forward axle is set back 1" per Foot of Trailer Deck Length..so a 12 Foot Trailer deck would put the Front axle 12" back from Center Line of the Deck. brakes will be a nice addition as well. You do great work!
The axle I just bought I actually disassembled, checked everything, painted, and repacked the bearings. It was the axle that was on the trailer that had the issue, and I though that one was fine. 🤷♂️
Hey Mate,
I watched your video since I am in the process of building my own trailer.
I am really interested in your lifting setup. Do you mind showing us how you set this up please. Or perhaps you have a video on it already. Thanks heaps. Great video btw. Frank
Hey there, I did make this video a couple years ago. I think it shows most of how the lift works. If you have any specific questions let me know. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder thank you. I was just wondering how you arranged your pulley setup.
@@fsriccobon8279 Sorry, I meant to link this video. It has a lot of info on the lift system.
ruclips.net/video/slO5dDWQVQk/видео.html
Thanks for the video dude. I’m going to build my own trailer. And that axle built so simple, and did you built the lift?
I did build the lift.
Good luck with your trailer build. 👍
Nice job looks good and it’ll work OK to
Thanks 👍
I would be more worried about the sparks in the carpet, than the little dirt… but it is a nice trailer and garage.😅
Thanks!
What’s the reason for going from single to tandem axles? I might have missed that. I have a single axle toy hauler for UTV, that I am thinking to convert it tandem axles.
I needed more capacity, it seemed better to go tandem axle verse a larger single axle. The tandem axle is smoother on the road for sure. But I do think going with a larger single axle would have been simpler.
Great video and good tips. Where did you buy the axle equalizer kit from? Cheers..
Thanks, I bought that kit at ETrailer.com
You should have a 60/40 weigh distribution 40 rear 60 front or else you can get sway .
Need to put way more grease in them bearings
Informative, thank you.
You're welcome!
The grease in that hub is light colored which means it’s had water in it for a long time. Water has mixed with the grease and over a period of time from sitting the water has corroded both the bearing and the race I suggest change both races check your seals change that check the seal on your hub put it back together and you’re good to go.
Thanks for the tip!
Me running to the comments to see everybody shredding his bearing packing skills. Unless he pulls this back apart or adds bearing buddies those bearings wont last 200 miles. After recently buying a new 14k trailer and having the bearings getting warm while towing the trailer completely unloaded just to get it home if found that that factory apparently used his method for greasing the bearings. Ended up adding almost 1-1/2 tubes of grease to get the (factory installed) greaseable spindles full.. CRAZY. Yes I know bearing buddies aren't installed to alleviate greasing the bearings but in this guys case (slight phobia of dirty hands) it would have been better than what he did. But that being said otherwise this guy has great fab skills and that ultra clean shop is outside my skill set. wink wink.
Good job on the work done but axles are back too far for load weight distribution. Good chance of trailer sway and/or too much weight put on the tongue depending on how the trailer is loaded. Either way.....not good in my opinion.
I would love to get some information on you ceiling lift.
You can email me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com
I'll tell you whatever you want to know.
shouldn' t those bearings be packed with grease?
Yep......I don't have any grease for my grease gun. I should have noted that in the outro. I'll pack them when I get some grease.
@@DougBugBuilder when I did my ranger I pre packed them with the hungry hippo method, pretty messy but it gets the job done
@@grantlee5393 I can't get that greasy....😂
@@DougBugBuilder I just watched this video and it was my 1st video of yours i have watched but i actually said that to myself!! It looks like you REALLY didnt want to get any grease or dirt on you. HaHa You look like you do very good CLEAN work and thats a good thing but every now and then, a guys gotta get them fingernails in the grease! Im glad you addressed the bearings not getting greased right in your above comment because they were not even close to being done right. That old grease looked really thick and i have never seen that thick grey type before, could it have been too thick to actually lubricate the old bearing good enough? Anyway, really good job on the new axles.
@@DougBugBuilder haha fair enough
hello I just Find your Channel it Looks Cool Im thinkng to Build my First Trailer Cuz I cant Offer to bay one my Question is Wher Did u Get Your Springs And Axels Did u Order From China or Local ? Thanks
The axles I got local on Craigslist, they were used. The springs, shackles, brakes I got from a company called Trailer Supply Depot.
Awesome nice work
Thank you
Gonna take me a day or two to get my land legs back after that... And I'm a fisherman 👌😂 tidy job though.
Thank you.. I literally laughed out loud when I read that! 👌
Sure screwed that little project up.
Wrong axle, improperly packed bearings, improperly adjusted bearings. Bearing buddies are useless on that application.
Old bearings had rusted at some point. Rugs have no place in an area where your grinding and welding.
Awesome vid!
Thanks!
Mate those bearings are going to go again because of the way you greased them up. You really need to pack them in with lots of grease. Put a lump of grease in the palm of your hand, grab your bearing and pack it in from the back of the bearing until it comes out on the front side of the bearing.
It looks like who ever seated that race used the Bering by the way the stress fractures were on the races.
A trick for removing inner bearings put the hub back on the spindle and reinstall the nut then pull out on the hub hard and fast pops the inner bearing and seal out easily
Thanks for the tip. ✌
Good video, but no one is here to watch you vacuum your shop floor
I heard a mad scientist invented power tools.
So one axle is a drop and the other is straight? That will put your equalizer out of balance so to speak. You might consider putting the rear axle under the springs.
These solid axles often have a tiny bit of castor and nose in built into their geometry, so it would mean cutting off the mounts and welding them back on the top. Not a huge job for a guy of his talents, but worth mentioning as a lot of folks just flip them upside down, then wonder why the trailers wandering all over the place on a bumpy road.
Personally, I might have used this as an excuse to leave out the equaliser all together and stack the middle spring mount one above the other to get the wheels 5 or 6" closer together. With the straight axle on the back it could have the shackle links on the trailing edge of both springs, this would give it fewer wear points, and it would have less tyre scrubbing during tight manoeuvres. On flat roads he's not going to miss the equaliser, but on rutted tracks this setup would be slightly more likely to bottom out a spring if he's motoring alone while heavily loaded though.
I wasn't sure how much of an issue that was going to be. I think if I do anything I'll adjust the lengh of the shackles on the equilizer so it's level.
I thought about not using the equalizer. But like you noted I really want the equalizer to smooth things out over the bumps.
@@Reman1975 how would moving the axle below the spring change the castor or camber?
@@timgroh8616 As I said, a lot of these axes have a tiny bit of toe and camber built in to aid trailer stability, so from new they have a "This way up" and correct direction of travel. Most people don't know this and assume the stub axles are totally parallel, so when they see the spring perch plates welded on the bottom they just assume the easiest option for them is to just flip the axle upside down when putting it on the other side of the spring. This makes that built in geometry work against the trailer being stable at speed.
Because of this, the CORRECT way to move an axle from one side of the springs to the other is to cut off the spring perches, and remake them on the other side of the axle rather than flipping it over.
yer pit crew is restless and waiting for a buggy ride!!!!
Lol, yeah something like that. 😁
I believe they call that SCORING AND PEELING Timken has a guide for bearing failure online. " Tmken bearing damage analysis reference guide "
Always better to not over tighten bearings as they expand when used. A smidge of wobble is okay.
Yeah, can't argue with that. Thanks.
Aluminum wheels would look nice.
I can't argue with that. 😁
Whatever grease you were usng doesnt look right., grey color?? did you get water in the grease maybe??
Not really sure, those were packed by the previous owner. This was my first time taking these hubs apart since purchasing the trailer.
Except for greasing the new wheel bears, you did great !
Just saying….
Thanks!
I'm not sure why you didn't add brakes before you put the wheels on to begin with. Also, on a trailer like this both axles should have brakes.
The way you put grease in those new bearings is why they failed. Need to properly pack them to prevent future issues.
Here is an oldie but goodie YT video on how to do it properly.
ruclips.net/video/BhL1uAp_WCw/видео.html
I didn't pack the bearings that failed, but I get your point. Thanks for the link, good video actually. 👍👍
Plasma cutter my brotha
Rust from moisture. Take off yearly clean and repack. Bearing buddies do not clean out old grease laden with .oisture.
Referring to your inside bearing, those “ridges” are referred to as pits
The metal is pitted, porous and Not plane
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽 looking good
Thanks!
Just gotta mention one thing, before I do let me just say, you do incredible work, you really do…. But you ain’t packing those bearings correctly.
Don't worry, the front axle is a Dexter E-Z lube. After I installed the hub I packed the entire thing with grease using the axle zerk. And I'm installing brakes on the rear axle. So when I grease those new hubs I'll be sure to grease properly.
But I appreciate the honesty and watching out for me. 👍
Nice garage, grinding with expensive cars next to you isn’t good.
When I seen your “packing” job I knew what.
Check with your home insurance & make sure it’s paid up & covers fire.
Grinding & welding with carpet is a sure way to start a fire.
That’s not how you pack bearings. You should go on RUclips and find out how to properly repack bearings. Maybe that’s why your bearings screwed up,hmmm
Put the old wheels on one side of the trailer and repaint them. No one can see both sides of the trailer at the same time 😅
Not a bad idea there. 👍
Thanks
Welcome, thanks for the comment.
2:54 why is your axle welded in place?!!
13:02 from the way you DIDN’T pack the bearing that’s why 7:48 the bearing failed.
Sorry, I know I sound like a critical jerk but I’ve likely done thousands of bearings at this point in life and I don’t recall any come-backs for early failures (or on my own stuff for that matter).
👍
✌
If you "Packed " the old Inner bearing like you did the new one that is why it failed, Not enough grease Repack that bearing. your axle position is wrong, You have to much tongue weight, Dexter Axle has a ton of information on the position and spacing. Take a look , Also In many states a Single axle trailer isn't required to have brakes, However In Washington and Idaho if the trailer has more than one, then all axles are required to have brakes ,might check your jurisdiction. not that anybody will hunt you down and cite you , however after the crash the citations are written. You carry expensive side by sides Why wouldn't you want to protect them in a panic stop? Like everybody I am an expert, I am a trailer parts distributor in the Northwest.
That axle nut really shouldnt be any more than hand tight. You fried the bearing by having to much preload on it.
Nice trailer but, its illegal in most states where are your brakes, most require brakes on anything over 3000lb axles. Have a panic stop with that loaded Yikes
You are right, and since this video I have installed surge brakes on the rear axle.
I should do an update video with that.