Neat to see a person working in metric, wow it makes so much more sense than Imperial here in the states. 40 years ago as a kid we learned metric because the US was to switch over to match the rest of the world, well we never did. Perfect example of our error was the Hubble mirror snafu, some of the telescope was done in Imperial and Metric, the result was a few million dollar oopsie and a few returns using the Space Shuttle. You'd think we would learn. Great video Andy
Thanks :-) Appreciate your feedback. I do really struggle with Imperial, taught the metric system only though sometimes I catch myself saying 'ah, a couple of foot long'....or 'that's about an inch...' cant help myself! Lol
Put a drill handle on that battery drill and less chance of sprained wrists. Plus drill at eg waist level so more positive push against the large drill bit.Can use square washers with hole punched to avoid drilliing keeper holes in axle tube as well.
Very excellent video. Glad you didn’t put a lot of fluff and stuff very good one of the better ones I’ve ever seen. I’m doing this job on a trailer I got and I’m just gonna cut the axles in half and re-tube them.
I had no intention of watching this whole video... but every time i wanted to fast forward... there was a bit of useful information and tips. Great content, Future me thanks you for all this information!
Good Lord bearings are expensive in New Zealand!! You can get those bearings here in the states for around $75 for the pair, just a little more for new hubs with bearings included.
In Australia, this type of axle seal is called a marine seal, used mostly on boat trailers. They are designed so you can put a grease nipple (Zerk fitting) on the grease cap and fill the hub and bearings with grease. I build a lot of trailers and my preferred seal even for conventional trailers.
Ah.....great info, very helpful. I didn't know it had a specific name. I can now pass this info on to other viewers that ask. Really appreciate your feedback. Cheers Andy
Good job most trailer axles have a small amount of camber in it. Some time you can just put a weld in the center of the axle and heat shrink it. Cheers
Tip. Use shims . Thin plates. . U can drill all holes on small bit fist all of them and than all with the large bit. Saves time. I like that u do a great job.
I have a 1970 home built trailer. Axle is pre BMC so older than 1950s. Have the great task of doing bearings and some welding and painting on it. It was built so well and I have been using it daily for over six years for my lawn and gardening business. I found your video very informative and interesting.
Here in the States, the axle is given a counter arc for when there's a load on it to keep the wheels flat to the road. I've found that brake cleaner spray is a good insecticide for wasps. Can reach from one side of the truck to the other and not get stung. Thanks for the video.
I just bought a new 45mm solid axle 1955mm tip to tip for $174 delivered . And bought a full hub kit with mechanical brakes for $250 delivered . I've got about 1/2 hrs work welding on the brake plates and spring plates then just fit the axle and wheels . Seems like a he'll of a lot of work you've got for standard hubs .
I really enjoyed your video! Wasn't even what I was looking for but but could not stop watching. I also have a couple of my wife's horse trailer axles she was previously told were bent. I am a retired architect and luv learning/teaching new things! You made this VERY understandable! Thank You. Hmmm? I have an old wood shop that needs cleaned up between feeden 'n teachen the Kiddies Ski'en. Just finished spliting black locust for the shop stove too! I love projects!
You have the old axel so I always place parts side by side, mark them and save all the measuring and lost time, as long as spring holes are the same ans the machined area for the seals are there you have it made.
The rims & hubs are of a different spec too (different off-set on the rims) & measurements had to be bang on or tyres would have protruded beyond the wheel arches. I had to take all the measurements before I could cut the box section axles down to the required length first. Cheers Andy
For centering/squaring I can picture 2 tapped holes on each flat face of square tube. 2 bolts like a set screw to adjust in/out for a total of 8 around tube. Measure length of bolts protruding and center the spindle inside. Snug down bolts. Weld then remove bolts 1 by 1 and add more welds in hole. In case anyone is wondering, the Drill Doctor does actually work well and quickly for sharpening these bits.
MrMotofy: I replaced an early Ford dropped I-beam axle for a trailer I bought in '72, although it was still in very good condition I decided to replace the beam and everything else with a new square tube axle, etc., since my Wife bought a new Harley Trike after we paid off our mortgage a few years ago and wanted to carry it in style when we go out of State to visit my daughters. I like your idea about securing the square shaft against the inside of the tube, since I've done this as well, but after drilling the shaft on the top and the aft end of the tube, I thread the spindle and then weld it in place after making sure it is as Square as it can be and then run a light weld around all four bolts to ensure they never come loose, ( 2 on the top and 2 on the back wall of the axle since this is where the spindle will be pressed-up against due to rearward pressure exerted against the spindle and doneard pressure against it as well which results in the spindle resting against the inside top wall of the axle. This way there will never be any problems with the spindle working it's way out of alignment.
Really enjoyed watching this video, I have been doing up trailers for years. I would have done the spring mount a little different. I would have welded a plate on rather than drilling into the axle. But all told an excellent job.
What I do to parallel the stubs in the tube is drill a hole on the corner of the tube and tack weld a nut. put a bolt in it to squeeze the stub into the opposite corner. weld in my rosettes on the side the stub is toward first then the other two. then weld the stub perimeter. Grind off the nut and weld the hole shut after.
You just earned a new subscriber. I clicked on the video just because it looked interesting, but the amount of detail you put into the work made me want to sub. I have a Harbor Freight trailer that I have been wanting to beef up and this axle video showed how easy it will be and how to take of the axle. So thank you.
I've found that small wasp nests can be dealt with quite quickly with a can of brake cleaner...... Especially if, two or three seconds into spraying you introduce a lit Zippo into the equation. :D
The 2 components of a taper roller bearing are called the cup and cone and have different part numbers. The LM 11949/11910 is a very common wheel bearing assembly readily available at Repco, BNT, TWL etc.
Thanks John, I still question why the bearing suppliers struggled to match up the original bearings & put in such a high price for what they did find? The job turned out much better given that new wheels & tyres were needed too. It's on easy to find components now so will be much easier to maintain moving forward :-) Thanks for your feedback. Cheers Andy
Andy, great channel. I'm a auto parts guy in the States. The LM11749/11710 is still common here. Timkin # Set 1 or BCA # A1. The others are usually sold separately. Like I saw someone else post, just older imperical measurements.
Thanks Ed, yes, it seems like the bearing guy here that priced it all up didn't really do a very good job & price was crazy high! Pleased you enjoy the channel - livestream on Sunday 8.30am NZ time :-)
One thing I would mention is what are you using for wire? I remember getting a welder that came with a roll of flux core. I didn't think much about it, and we were using argon and standard wire. The polarity of the weld cables needs to be switched between the use of the 2 different types of wire. Switching that on that welder between the 2 different wires way back that solved the problem. It sounds to me like if that isn't the problem the wire speed is to fast or the welder isn't up to the task of welding metals that thick. I had a welder that wasn't up to the task of welding things as thick as I was welding and often used a torch to bring the heat up.
Thanks Robert, this was filmed a while ago now. The issue turned out to be a poor ground. I have since upgraded the power supply to the workshop & now have a dedicated 40 amp, 240v AC supply for the Mig, these two changes have completely eliminated the issue thankfully! Appreciate your comment. I have never used flux core welding wire, always use plain 0.8mm wire & Argon gas. All the best Andy
Just turn the trailer upside down with axle facing up to take axle off. A lot easier and you’re not underneath it. Nice job though saving the trailer with the upgrade.
Very impressive Andy, so good to see anyone being attentive enough about doing the job right and thinking of the rest of the population that could be at risk from shoddy work. No fears with your projects on the road. Thank You Hoka Hey
Aha, you've struck the same problem I have with the trailer I built 50 years ago. The Timken 1997X/1922 and LM 11949/11910 are imperial sizes and from Ford Zephyr and Consul 1956 onwards, so I'm sure these were Zephyr hubs and stubs welded on. Off the shelf trailer units weren't available in NZ back then, so we had to use car components from the scrapyard. I did think of making up a whole new axle as you did, but my axle is a 3 inch drop using the Mk 1 Zephyr bolt on stubs, which were very popular for kiwi trailers back in the day. The LM 11949/11910 are easy to find and not expensive, and I watched ebay UK for a few months until I picked up a couple of NOS 1997X/1922 combos that had been sitting in workshops for years for about £20 plus a few pounds postage each. They are available new but as you found, horrendously expensive. You certainly did the right thing for your customer. You certainly couldn't spend a few months solving the problem fairly cheaply as I did.
Thanks Brian, awesome info, I'm sure some of the viewers will be grateful for your knowledge. Yes, I do believe I did the right thing for the customer although they were not particularly happy with the cost in the end even though it probably worked out a bit cheaper & a far better setup. You cant win them all! Cheers Andy
New sub, Andy! Once I saw the intro, I knew I'd get some info about good lubrication practices and ensuring a proper fit! What a great group of helpers you're training!
in the US axles and trailer wheels are an universal standard hub face and spring center is 15 in different, 7.5in each side so 95in hub face is 81in spring center
Excellent well detailed video my friend. Your accent, phrases, and mannerisms are remarkably more closely English and American than Australian. I was very surprised by them.
Thanks for the comment but I disagree, in England & New Zealand the axles are made from straight box section unless it's a boat trailer where the centre of the axle has a V in the middle section to allow clearance on the hull. On a side note, with this video been made for the DIY Trailer builder can you imagine how difficult it would be for them to ensure the two ends of the axle were parallel if they were to do as you suggest? Thanks again for your input & it's not often I take a strong standing on my views but I hope I have explained my reasons why Thanks Andy
Hi Andy I do a bit of welding still learning my brother in law is a professional welder he also said my welder does’t sound right , I was tig welding he checked my polarity was wrong with out gas my ground should be on + positive when not using gas and the clamp should be as close as possible to the work area , but I think it’s a more practic for me , l really enjoyed watchING THANKS AL.
Thanks Al, pleased you enjoyed the video & the tip on the polarity aspect. I always run gas, Argoshield universal to be accurate so it's not a polarity issue. I'm confident it's likely to be with the current power supply to the workshop - the new 200 Amp supply should be up & running in the next few weeks so I'll probably do a short video showing the improvement (hopefully there will be!) Cheers for now Andy
To get the stubs concentric with the square axle tube put some rod in each inside corner, they only need to be in a few cm then weld over them. Yes you will need to work out what dia they need to be, if your lucky it might be a common size rod if not you have a lathe! Subscribed :)
For centering/squaring I can picture 2 tapped holes on each flat face of square tube. 2 bolts like a set screw to adjust in/out for a total of 8 around tube. Measure length of bolts protruding and center the spindle inside. Snug down bolts. Weld then remove bolts 1 by 1 and add more welds in hole
I have a trailer with a slip leaf spring axle at the rear of trailer and want to put another axle onto the front making a double axle trailer ,can I use a double eyed leaf spring with shackles on the new front axle and slip spring axle at the back.??? Or is it best to have all the same.
I don't know when New Zealand went metric but that trailer axle was probably made either before or during transition and in Imperial sizes (feet and inches). In Britain, one side would be a left hand thread on stub (at least when I made a couple of trailers in 1980's) Tack weld one of the plug welds only, then it's easy to move stubs around to get them concentric You may find an old leather sofa or chair thrown out sometime, cut out some leather 'sheet' to use over lathe bed or anything else that meeds protection from spatter. Use old engine oil on leather to help protect stuff from rusting, I tend to cover lathe chuck and bed if I won't be using it for a few days (Florida is real high humidity #often 90+%. Drill bits seem to be rubbing and not cutting clean?
*timepoint **46:30**, why don't you just use strips of masking tape, to square it up by getting rid of the wiggle room? layer a strip of tape on 4 sides until you get a snug fit.*
Seeing the pin up girl in the background at the end was worth the video by itself! Nice axle.. I will be buying a factory made one and bolting it on. Now I need to find a pin up girl poster. bwuahahahaaa
Hi Andy. Watching this video, when you made a comment about someone welded the plate to the axle. I own a horse trailer which has a similar setup as that axle and the plate welded to the axle and bolts sandwiching the springs. Many years ago I removed that plate and replaced it with u bolts. Some of the older trailer companies said in the 1970's this is how axles were made.
I find that often as well, no two rulers are ever the same! very odd. Mostly just fast fudge it, as if you try too hard to get it bang on spot on perfectly perfect exact - it usually comes out more out of whack than ever!
Take a piece of braided copper wire and just wad it up and put under the original ground clamp when you clamp it to the metal. That way you will have many points of contact.
Yes, in the UK & New Zealand you can build your own trailer. In the UK there are no regular safety checks either! In NZ there is a 3 year check then every year thereafter. There is no requirement to use branded parts, you could machine up the stub axles yourself :-)
@@AndyMechanic new trailers without brakes is so priced there is no deal built one of your own...and if you wanna change axel you buy one (torrision sprung)and put it there as if it hs been there all time otherwise you must go thru a registercheckas if you changed the chassi for more expensive money. here trailers is free checks if they are older than 50years...and 2-years if newer
Hi Drew, my workshop is down near Taupo. I can do the work, no problem but won't be able to schedule until mid March at the earliest due to been very busy. Does the trailer have a WoF?
It's been 2 years since this video has been released. Did your axle nut ever come off? It's about... 180-300lbs under the recommended torque. Give or take a few bumps on the road.
Just curious what the wall thickness is on that square tubing ? I was going to put together a trailer, and was wondering just how light I could go on the axle tubes.
Hi, thanks for your feedback & pleased you found the video helpful. The box section is 50mm x 50mm & has a wall thickness of 6mm. It's pretty heavy stuff & needs to be as it supports the entire weight of the trailer & load plus impacts such as potholes etc. Enjoy the build. Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic Thank you. I guess that's almost 1/4" in the u.s. That's pretty heavy wall . Most of the 3500 pound capacity trailers here seem to be using 3/16" wall tube, or even less...
@@hamscanner The only axles that I've seen here in the u.s. that are solid are axles on buggys that horses pull. And they're usually about 1-1/8" solid square bar. I can't imagine a trailer that a car pulls, having a solid axle of 2 or 3" diameter. Automobiles use tube axles because they have gears inside them, and I've never heard of one ever bending. Even off roading, usually the internal parts break first. What size solid axles do they use down under??
Mr. Andy I I’m a trailer mechanic and was a trailer fabrication technician for a small trailer manufacturer 20 years ago and when we fabricated an axle to get the spindles to run true we’ve used a metal square and measured from the outside edge of the axels stock to the end of the bearing placement on the axel stub to get the same distance all the way around. 🧐 never had any axels return for warranty disputes ever ! The only problem I found is from the people who cut an axel in half to shorten the length and not take it out of one side and put in the axel end the same way as installing it from new fabrication have a safe and secure in place for now. Lawrence Dunkin 📫
I'm not REALLY upset, but a little tab of beer can aluminum between the chuck jaws and axle wouldn't have gone amiss. That or chuck onto the rough portion of the axle instead of the seal race.
Cheers Shane, thanks for the great feedback - it's good to know the videos are helpful. I have never really raced but do get to meet lots of very talented riders with my day job Cheers for now Andy
Hy Andy. You need to slow down that drill so you can drill faster ! How have you been? Fancy seeing you here, last time I saw you was when you still worked for Paul! Rgds, Henk
Neat to see a person working in metric, wow it makes so much more sense than Imperial here in the states. 40 years ago as a kid we learned metric because the US was to switch over to match the rest of the world, well we never did. Perfect example of our error was the Hubble mirror snafu, some of the telescope was done in Imperial and Metric, the result was a few million dollar oopsie and a few returns using the Space Shuttle. You'd think we would learn. Great video Andy
Thanks :-) Appreciate your feedback. I do really struggle with Imperial, taught the metric system only though sometimes I catch myself saying 'ah, a couple of foot long'....or 'that's about an inch...' cant help myself! Lol
I’ve been a mechanic since the 80s and built many trailers and done similar repairs. Yet I still watched well done.
I bet the 80’s where Magical Times to live in !!!
@@josefastboats5874 I grew up then...it was magical lol
“I still watched” cus of the girls lol
Put a drill handle on that battery drill and less chance of sprained wrists. Plus drill at eg waist level so more positive push against the large drill bit.Can use square washers with hole punched to avoid drilliing keeper holes in axle tube as well.
Very excellent video. Glad you didn’t put a lot of fluff and stuff very good one of the better ones I’ve ever seen. I’m doing this job on a trailer I got and I’m just gonna cut the axles in half and re-tube them.
I had no intention of watching this whole video... but every time i wanted to fast forward... there was a bit of useful information and tips. Great content, Future me thanks you for all this information!
Good Lord bearings are expensive in New Zealand!! You can get those bearings here in the states for around $75 for the pair, just a little more for new hubs with bearings included.
In Australia, this type of axle seal is called a marine seal, used mostly on boat trailers. They are designed so you can put a grease nipple (Zerk fitting) on the grease cap and fill the hub and bearings with grease. I build a lot of trailers and my preferred seal even for conventional trailers.
Ah.....great info, very helpful. I didn't know it had a specific name. I can now pass this info on to other viewers that ask. Really appreciate your feedback. Cheers Andy
Good job most trailer axles have a small amount of camber in it. Some time you can just put a weld in the center of the axle and heat shrink it. Cheers
Tip. Use shims . Thin plates. . U can drill all holes on small bit fist all of them and than all with the large bit. Saves time. I like that u do a great job.
Thanks, great tip. Cheers Andy
I have a 1970 home built trailer. Axle is pre BMC so older than 1950s. Have the great task of doing bearings and some welding and painting on it. It was built so well and I have been using it daily for over six years for my lawn and gardening business. I found your video very informative and interesting.
Love the repair not replace mantra. Awesome to see people extending the life of their purchases
Here in the States, the axle is given a counter arc for when there's a load on it to keep the wheels flat to the road.
I've found that brake cleaner spray is a good insecticide for wasps. Can reach from one side of the truck to the other and not get stung.
Thanks for the video.
alignment can be achieved by using shims between the stub insu=ide the square tubing 3 sides only needed. do your weld and then side the shims out.
Grand job Andy, I'm doing my trailer axle at moment. Steve, Nottingham.
Cheers Steve, have fun :-)
I just bought a new 45mm solid axle 1955mm tip to tip for $174 delivered . And bought a full hub kit with mechanical brakes for $250 delivered . I've got about 1/2 hrs work welding on the brake plates and spring plates then just fit the axle and wheels .
Seems like a he'll of a lot of work you've got for standard hubs .
That's very good deal indeed. Things are a lot more expensive here in New Zealand, especially due to the inflated shipping costs now.
Great job
Andy
Very informative very detail-oriented one of the best how to videos I've watched bravo
I really enjoyed your video! Wasn't even what I was looking for but but could not stop watching. I also have a couple of my wife's horse trailer axles she was previously told were bent. I am a retired architect and luv learning/teaching new things! You made this VERY understandable! Thank You. Hmmm? I have an old wood shop that needs cleaned up between feeden 'n teachen the Kiddies Ski'en. Just finished spliting black locust for the shop stove too! I love projects!
1:17:10 the standard unit of all measurements in the universe. Great video!
I am just about to start and make a small trailer to tow broken mobility scooters. Your video has helped me a lot. Thank you
You have the old axel so I always place parts side by side, mark them and save all the measuring and lost time, as long as spring holes are the same ans the machined area for the seals are there you have it made.
The rims & hubs are of a different spec too (different off-set on the rims) & measurements had to be bang on or tyres would have protruded beyond the wheel arches. I had to take all the measurements before I could cut the box section axles down to the required length first.
Cheers Andy
I’ve never seen your channel before but your intro really caught my attention. The girls are AMAZING!
Subscribed.
Strangely we don't have trailer inspections in the UK.
No. I thought it was odd that trailers were inspected in NZ - I lived in the UK for 37 years so no inspections was the norm for me.
Cheers Andy
For centering/squaring I can picture 2 tapped holes on each flat face of square tube. 2 bolts like a set screw to adjust in/out for a total of 8 around tube. Measure length of bolts protruding and center the spindle inside. Snug down bolts. Weld then remove bolts 1 by 1 and add more welds in hole.
In case anyone is wondering, the Drill Doctor does actually work well and quickly for sharpening these bits.
MrMotofy: I replaced an early Ford dropped I-beam axle for a trailer I bought in '72, although it was still in very good condition I decided to replace the beam and everything else with a new square tube axle, etc., since my Wife bought a new Harley Trike after we paid off our mortgage a few years ago and wanted to carry it in style when we go out of State to visit my daughters.
I like your idea about securing the square shaft against the inside of the tube, since I've done this as well, but after drilling the shaft on the top and the aft end of the tube, I thread the spindle and then weld it in place after making sure it is as Square as it can be and then run a light weld around all four bolts to ensure they never come loose, ( 2 on the top and 2 on the back wall of the axle since this is where the spindle will be pressed-up against due to rearward pressure exerted against the spindle and doneard pressure against it as well which results in the spindle resting against the inside top wall of the axle.
This way there will never be any problems with the spindle working it's way out of alignment.
Really enjoyed watching this video, I have been doing up trailers for years. I would have done the spring mount a little different. I would have welded a plate on rather than drilling into the axle. But all told an excellent job.
What I do to parallel the stubs in the tube is drill a hole on the corner of the tube and tack weld a nut. put a bolt in it to squeeze the stub into the opposite corner. weld in my rosettes on the side the stub is toward first then the other two. then weld the stub perimeter.
Grind off the nut and weld the hole shut after.
That'll work :-)
You just earned a new subscriber. I clicked on the video just because it looked interesting, but the amount of detail you put into the work made me want to sub.
I have a Harbor Freight trailer that I have been wanting to beef up and this axle video showed how easy it will be and how to take of the axle. So thank you.
Aye could I cut a trailer axle in middle and make it longer by welding a tube in the middle to extend kt
Yep :-)
@@AndyMechanic thank you boss
I've found that small wasp nests can be dealt with quite quickly with a can of brake cleaner...... Especially if, two or three seconds into spraying you introduce a lit Zippo into the equation. :D
Lol
You make it so completely simple. Thank you so much.
Hey Andy ,Nice Job ,I was looking for trailer axle videos and found your's ,glad I did ,thanks from Canada >
Many thanks for the feedback Yves, I'm pleased you found it helpful. Good Luck with your project. Cheers Andy
The 2 components of a taper roller bearing are called the cup and cone and have different part numbers. The LM 11949/11910 is a very common wheel bearing assembly readily available at Repco, BNT, TWL etc.
Thanks John, I still question why the bearing suppliers struggled to match up the original bearings & put in such a high price for what they did find?
The job turned out much better given that new wheels & tyres were needed too. It's on easy to find components now so will be much easier to maintain moving forward :-)
Thanks for your feedback. Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic I agree, was a good upgrade, but your bearing supplier is taking the piss mate 👍🏿
No longer my bearing supplier! For this very reason! Thanks John.
Andy
ugh....what a pain.... gotta love Tractor Supply Co in the states. complete 3500lb trailer axle 5 lug $219usd.
how about putting a STRAIGHT BAR between the tube and axle the will serve a a space ang will keep the hub PARALLEL AND TRUE...
Subscribed love a straight shooter looking for the best for the customer and proud of the work they do. Great job
Very helpful video for a lot of applications. Thank you for sharing.
Love the videos. And the 2020 calendar over your left shoulder.
Thank you for your time👍👌✌️🤙🏻😁
Use a wedge to force the round spindle up and back into the inside corner of the tube. Then use the same corner on the other end.
Good idea :-) Cheers Andy
Well loading this up to my workshop tv n better get started,Pokeno NZ....a beer first....for confidence 😁
Good Luck :-)
Andy, great channel. I'm a auto parts guy in the States. The LM11749/11710 is still common here. Timkin # Set 1 or BCA # A1. The others are usually sold separately. Like I saw someone else post, just older imperical measurements.
Thanks Ed, yes, it seems like the bearing guy here that priced it all up didn't really do a very good job & price was crazy high!
Pleased you enjoy the channel - livestream on Sunday 8.30am NZ time :-)
And it maybe more about availability on your side of the globe...lol
One thing I would mention is what are you using for wire? I remember getting a welder that came with a roll of flux core. I didn't think much about it, and we were using argon and standard wire. The polarity of the weld cables needs to be switched between the use of the 2 different types of wire. Switching that on that welder between the 2 different wires way back that solved the problem. It sounds to me like if that isn't the problem the wire speed is to fast or the welder isn't up to the task of welding metals that thick. I had a welder that wasn't up to the task of welding things as thick as I was welding and often used a torch to bring the heat up.
Thanks Robert, this was filmed a while ago now. The issue turned out to be a poor ground. I have since upgraded the power supply to the workshop & now have a dedicated 40 amp, 240v AC supply for the Mig, these two changes have completely eliminated the issue thankfully!
Appreciate your comment. I have never used flux core welding wire, always use plain 0.8mm wire & Argon gas.
All the best
Andy
Good job, I learnt from your video
With this pandemic we have time enough to learn something new, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the feedback Arnold :-)
love all your helpers
Don't most new axles come with a camber built in to them so that when its fully loaded it evens the tires out perfectly?
No
Only if you mount them upside down. They are supposed to be mounted with the curve used to camber the wheels inward a little.
The lighter duty axles do indeed come with camber, unless the manufacturer requests otherwise.
Yes, they have a little bit of positive camber built-in. That's how Dexter makes them in the US.
The outer race is an SAF Holland race. Still in business. They make trailer axles. Maybe bearing was replaced at some point but race wasn't?
Great job Andy! Cheers from Cape Cod!
Thanks Brian, pleased you enjoyed it. Cheers Andy
Just turn the trailer upside down with axle facing up to take axle off. A lot easier and you’re not underneath it. Nice job though saving the trailer with the upgrade.
Excellent video very detailed, step-by-step detail explained very well thank you!
I put a new trailer axle in last week how long do I drive it before rechecking the hub bearings foreplay
Oh 30 miles or 50km should be fine
Cheers Andy
Very impressive Andy, so good to see anyone being attentive enough about doing the job right and thinking of the rest of the population that could be at risk from shoddy work. No fears with your projects on the road. Thank You
Hoka Hey
Aha, you've struck the same problem I have with the trailer I built 50 years ago. The Timken 1997X/1922 and LM 11949/11910 are imperial sizes and from Ford Zephyr and Consul 1956 onwards, so I'm sure these were Zephyr hubs and stubs welded on. Off the shelf trailer units weren't available in NZ back then, so we had to use car components from the scrapyard. I did think of making up a whole new axle as you did, but my axle is a 3 inch drop using the Mk 1 Zephyr bolt on stubs, which were very popular for kiwi trailers back in the day. The LM 11949/11910 are easy to find and not expensive, and I watched ebay UK for a few months until I picked up a couple of NOS 1997X/1922 combos that had been sitting in workshops for years for about £20 plus a few pounds postage each. They are available new but as you found, horrendously expensive. You certainly did the right thing for your customer. You certainly couldn't spend a few months solving the problem fairly cheaply as I did.
Thanks Brian, awesome info, I'm sure some of the viewers will be grateful for your knowledge. Yes, I do believe I did the right thing for the customer although they were not particularly happy with the cost in the end even though it probably worked out a bit cheaper & a far better setup. You cant win them all!
Cheers Andy
Use old race --thin edge to the new race and drive it in --always works and no damage to new race
New sub, Andy! Once I saw the intro, I knew I'd get some info about good lubrication practices and ensuring a proper fit! What a great group of helpers you're training!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
in the US axles and trailer wheels are an universal standard hub face and spring center is 15 in different, 7.5in each side so 95in hub face is 81in spring center
Excellent well detailed video my friend. Your accent, phrases, and mannerisms are remarkably more closely English and American than Australian. I was very surprised by them.
Ah...that's because I'm English, from Yorkshire. Moved to New Zealand in 2009.
Pleased you enjoyed the video.
All the best. Andy
Total price 😊 cheers…
tires are sq. bed sq. but tung is off 1.5 in will this stress the tires
This is a GREAT video for someone making their own axle....no bullshit or foolishness just TO THE POINT...WELL DONE.
Cheers Mark, appreciate your feedback. Thanks Andy
The axle tube needs to have a crown put in the tube. The center of the tube should be about 18mm higher than the ends.
Thanks for the comment but I disagree, in England & New Zealand the axles are made from straight box section unless it's a boat trailer where the centre of the axle has a V in the middle section to allow clearance on the hull.
On a side note, with this video been made for the DIY Trailer builder can you imagine how difficult it would be for them to ensure the two ends of the axle were parallel if they were to do as you suggest?
Thanks again for your input & it's not often I take a strong standing on my views but I hope I have explained my reasons why
Thanks Andy
@@AndyMechanic I set up my axles with 1/8 toe in but have never added any camber
Hi Andy I do a bit of welding still learning my brother in law is a professional welder he also said my welder does’t sound right , I was tig welding he checked my polarity was wrong with out gas my ground should be on + positive when not using gas and the clamp should be as close as possible to the work area , but I think it’s a more practic for me , l really enjoyed watchING THANKS AL.
Thanks Al, pleased you enjoyed the video & the tip on the polarity aspect. I always run gas, Argoshield universal to be accurate so it's not a polarity issue. I'm confident it's likely to be with the current power supply to the workshop - the new 200 Amp supply should be up & running in the next few weeks so I'll probably do a short video showing the improvement (hopefully there will be!)
Cheers for now Andy
I think it was SKF Holland, i've never heard of Rolland brand.
To get the stubs concentric with the square axle tube put some rod in each inside corner, they only need to be in a few cm then weld over them.
Yes you will need to work out what dia they need to be, if your lucky it might be a common size rod if not you have a lathe!
Subscribed :)
For centering/squaring I can picture 2 tapped holes on each flat face of square tube. 2 bolts like a set screw to adjust in/out for a total of 8 around tube. Measure length of bolts protruding and center the spindle inside. Snug down bolts. Weld then remove bolts 1 by 1 and add more welds in hole
I have a trailer with a slip leaf spring axle at the rear of trailer and want to put another axle onto the front making a double axle trailer ,can I use a double eyed leaf spring with shackles on the new front axle and slip spring axle at the back.???
Or is it best to have all the same.
9TH
That was great and if you don't have a lathe you can make a jig to hold everything in place. Thank you Andy I learnt something.
Rather than using a lathe, could use some shims to make the stub parallel to the box section steel. It might not be centred but it will be parallel.
Yes, or some angle clamped to the box section protruding over the stub axle so you can centre it easier. Good ideas
Good Video Excellent set up
What is the wall thickness of the square tubing for the axle?
or "box section" as you call it?
6mm
We have a place called Tristate bearn have not yet get a baren we are looking for yet thy sell Timken barens.
I don't know when New Zealand went metric but that trailer axle was probably made either before or during transition and in Imperial sizes (feet and inches).
In Britain, one side would be a left hand thread on stub (at least when I made a couple of trailers in 1980's)
Tack weld one of the plug welds only, then it's easy to move stubs around to get them concentric
You may find an old leather sofa or chair thrown out sometime, cut out some leather 'sheet' to use over lathe bed or anything else that meeds protection from spatter. Use old engine oil on leather to help protect stuff from rusting, I tend to cover lathe chuck and bed if I won't be using it for a few days (Florida is real high humidity #often 90+%.
Drill bits seem to be rubbing and not cutting clean?
Thanks for the tips, very helpful indeed. I'll keep my eye open for an old leather sheet, great idea & will definitely save the lathe!
Cheers Andy
*timepoint **46:30**, why don't you just use strips of masking tape, to square it up by getting rid of the wiggle room? layer a strip of tape on 4 sides until you get a snug fit.*
my question is what calibre is the square pipe
6mm wall from memory. Cheers Andy
hahaha...always a pain in the ass putting the cap....had the same problem...
Does "Holland" for the larger bearing make any better sense?
Seeing the pin up girl in the background at the end was worth the video by itself! Nice axle.. I will be buying a factory made one and bolting it on. Now I need to find a pin up girl poster. bwuahahahaaa
Hi Andy. Watching this video, when you made a comment about someone welded the plate to the axle. I own a horse trailer which has a similar setup as that axle and the plate welded to the axle and bolts sandwiching the springs. Many years ago I removed that plate and replaced it with u bolts. Some of the older trailer companies said in the 1970's this is how axles were made.
I find that often as well, no two rulers are ever the same! very odd. Mostly just fast fudge it, as if you try too hard to get it bang on spot on perfectly perfect exact - it usually comes out more out of whack than ever!
Strange we dont have an MOT or any test for trailers in the UK
Do tape measures not exist down under?
Yes....why do you ask?
Thank you for this info. I need to do the same thing for my trailer
A fine job -- the trailer is now ready for service for many years
Take a piece of braided copper wire and just wad it up and put under the original ground clamp when you clamp it to the metal. That way you will have many points of contact.
Wouldn't measuring the distance from hub face to hub face have been sufficient?
No because the new wheels have a different off-set too unfortunately
Cheers Andy
lol! never seen this guy...20 seconds in and this guy knows how to sell it!
That Förch calendar at your shop is awesome
Thanks you did a great job 🎉
I’m planning o make one also thanks for sharing your video
Hi is this trailer streetlegal...here in sweden we must use axels that is fabricated and not homemade for to have it on the road legaly
Yes, in the UK & New Zealand you can build your own trailer. In the UK there are no regular safety checks either! In NZ there is a 3 year check then every year thereafter.
There is no requirement to use branded parts, you could machine up the stub axles yourself :-)
@@AndyMechanic new trailers without brakes is so priced there is no deal built one of your own...and if you wanna change axel you buy one (torrision sprung)and put it there as if it hs been there all time otherwise you must go thru a registercheckas if you changed the chassi for more expensive money. here trailers is free checks if they are older than 50years...and 2-years if newer
are you based in auckland? can you convert tandem to single axle for my boat trailor ples?
Hi Drew, my workshop is down near Taupo. I can do the work, no problem but won't be able to schedule until mid March at the earliest due to been very busy. Does the trailer have a WoF?
@@AndyMechanic ohok dang too far then, but no will need fresh wof and lights also
4 pieces of wire in "L" shape can slide along each corner of the tube to centre the hub as you push it in place
I love that clamp. Wow
where do you get the square tube for the axle? isn't it hardened steel??
are the nuts in the southern hemisphere left hand thread. How would you line it up if you don't have a lath.
Good question
hi,
can anyone tell me what the rubber thing is called at the front of the a frame
mine needs replacing.
It's been 2 years since this video has been released.
Did your axle nut ever come off? It's about... 180-300lbs under the recommended torque. Give or take a few bumps on the road.
Just curious what the wall thickness is on that square tubing ? I was going to put together a trailer, and was wondering just how light I could go on the axle tubes.
Hi, thanks for your feedback & pleased you found the video helpful. The box section is 50mm x 50mm & has a wall thickness of 6mm. It's pretty heavy stuff & needs to be as it supports the entire weight of the trailer & load plus impacts such as potholes etc.
Enjoy the build. Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic Thank you. I guess that's almost 1/4" in the u.s.
That's pretty heavy wall . Most of the 3500 pound capacity trailers here seem to be using 3/16" wall tube, or even less...
@@spartaeus Ha That’s why keep I see them failing in America (on RUclips) Lots of trailer axles here in NZ are solid
@@hamscanner The only axles that I've seen here in the u.s. that are solid are axles on buggys that horses pull. And they're usually about 1-1/8" solid square bar. I can't imagine a trailer that a car pulls, having a solid axle of 2 or 3" diameter. Automobiles use tube axles because they have gears inside them, and I've never heard of one ever bending. Even off roading, usually the internal parts break first. What size solid axles do they use down under??
Mr. Andy I I’m a trailer mechanic and was a trailer fabrication technician for a small trailer manufacturer 20 years ago and when we fabricated an axle to get the spindles to run true we’ve used a metal square and measured from the outside edge of the axels stock to the end of the bearing placement on the axel stub to get the same distance all the way around. 🧐 never had any axels return for warranty disputes ever !
The only problem I found is from the people who cut an axel in half to shorten the length and not take it out of one side and put in the axel end the same way as installing it from new fabrication have a safe and secure in place for now.
Lawrence Dunkin 📫
Mate didn't even skip a second and watched it right to the end
I'm not REALLY upset, but a little tab of beer can aluminum between the chuck jaws and axle wouldn't have gone amiss. That or chuck onto the rough portion of the axle instead of the seal race.
Like your work Andy new to your channel love garage repairs myself ,used to race superstocks here in nelson , cheers, shaneo nelson, nz
Cheers Shane, thanks for the great feedback - it's good to know the videos are helpful.
I have never really raced but do get to meet lots of very talented riders with my day job
Cheers for now
Andy
Hy Andy. You need to slow down that drill so you can drill faster ! How have you been? Fancy seeing you here, last time I saw you was when you still worked for Paul! Rgds, Henk
I subscribed as soon as the babes started rolling through before I even saw if this video was going to be of any use to me at all 🤷♂️
Great job