Rescuing 2 gorgeous Vanda Orchids - Finally I have her!
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- Today we take a look at 2 wonderful orchids that were sent in this week to save, and surprise! It's a top wishlist one!
▼▼▼More info bellow!▼▼▼
The 2 Vandas that I received are Vanda Mimi Palmer and Vandachostylis Colmarie. The Mimi Palmer has been on my wishlist for ages now and she arrived with a few wonderful, fragrant flowers!
The problem is that they are sicker than I thought. I believe they had fusarium, probably caused by some stress periods. I proceeded to cutting all affected portions and sterilizing with hydrogen peroxide 3%. They will be maintained separate and I will try to provide the care and attention the need.
For a fungicide treatment watch this • Fusarium wilt on orchi...
More on the Fusarium purple ring www.scielo.br/s...
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Im here to say that i just bought a mimi Palmer because of you!!! Kkkkkkkkkkkkkk tks!!! 😘😘😘 💚 From Rio de janeiro!!!
These are two beautiful crosses. I'll keep my fingers crossed that they'll recover and bloom for you (again) very soon.
I'm still on the hunt for Mimi Palmer. 😍
Hi, Jess linked me to these sellers in the USA that have it Motes Orchids: www.motesorchids.com/new/si124-yrtzt
So Orchids: www.soorchids.com/store/p6/Papilionanda_Mimi_Palmer.html
Hope this helps :D
my Vanda which I got more than a year ago was in a similar condition (purple ring - I knew that it could be fusarium, cut almost all the roots and a good portion of the stem). Ok, now you wouldn't believe how gorgeous it looks ( I hung it close to humidifier until I saw new green root tips, then I put it in a big glazed ceramic pot with holes aka orchid pot cause I wanted to be able to put in on the dinner table when it blooms, not only hang it. I put some large leca on the bottom, then secured orchid and added mycrofiber strips). It has 10 times more roots than it have had a year ago and they circling the pot which looks like art =) BTW I really don't think that fusarium effects on orchids are well studied cause it doesn't make sense that it would affect growth of leaves, new pseudobulbs etc if it is localized to a small area you can cut
Happy to hear that you've finally got a vanda mimi palmer. :) PS:The more sun it was expose to, the more intense the fragrant was. The flower were very long lasting, up to 10 weeks. Enjoy! :)
Quite a beaut!
Given some proper adjustments I do believe the Vandas will come springing back in time.
this is so offtopic you can sue me, but i watched one of your older videos and i saw the Almond Oil Handsoap from Mega Image and i remembered you said once you have sensitive skin (or at least you burn easily from hydro perox). I decided to try it out. because it's so cheap and you get so much liquid soap for the price. and i'm loving it. thanks.
The colmarie looks as sad as my one phal zambia, I got Thrips on mine though and then fungus gnats invaded. So all my new additions are pretty much dying from bacterial infection from this mess now as well.
I can agree that the mimi palmer is gorgeous though. Vandas in general are such gems.
All I ever did to every vanda I got was to rescue them they lived but eventually faded away. My longest lived plant was more than half a year, the others gave it fusarium. Compared to phalaenopsis, I feel the vandas are more hardy while phalaenopsis are quite delicate.
_Paws_ agreed. I’ve killed several phals, but not one vanda. Only orchid that’s hardier seems to be den phals.
I would stronly suggest that you also check the roots of the vandas and cut them untill there is no purple, because, as you said the infection starts at the roots and the ends of those roots were dead and purple. So there might be a high chance that the infection might spread up the roots into the orchid. If I know how fungi works, those roots were the place where Fussarium produced it's spores, so they could disperse by water. Ofcourse if there is only a little bit of the fungus left in the body of the plant, it's immune system should manage, but only if the orchid is healthy, as I'm sure they will soon be under your care.
Like the microfiber - will have to do that!
Question for you - I have a Vanda that I know will come to me in bark - it will be small - in a 3" pot. How would you handle that? Would you leave in the bark for awhile to allow it to acclimate to the new environment before putting it a basket, or put it in a basket right away?
Thanks!
I need to go back to bucket soaking, the blooms open looking crispy and the spikes keep drying up. Vandas need more water than I thought. They are good at hiding dehydration
I'm wondering, if using a therapeutic grade tea tree oil on one piece of bark at the top would kill the fungus. Placing after watering, by the time you water next, most of the oil would be gone. I'm trying it. Let you know. BTW, the little phaleononpsis I've rescued has two good roots, the deeper root is growing but the leaves still aren't fully hydrated. Winter will be a challenge.
Be careful - many times Even roots that don’t look all that good with a mixture of the following will quickly start to branch and retip from seemingly dead branches. If you use a mixture of the next products for 30-45 days - then repot and get rid of dead and move on. The exception besides bifoliate Most times The exception is bifoliate - you can’t do them just anytime, willy nilly or you will send them into decline that may be their death. Or plants that onky root once a year. Bifoliates I only do when starting roots and well before the new lead(s) mature. I repot bifoliate when the roots start out and are about 1-2” if a standard say cattleya. You use a mixture of things like Kelpak, a Kelp based product in the US was called KelpMax but now in the US it’s been reverted to its original name and use once a month. Add in a probiotic/microbe product like Quantum Total or Quantum Orchid (same product and cheaper than the exact same product but now labeled for orchids by a vendor for like $15-20 higher - use at least once a week or every watering. But then also add a root booster like Hormex concentrate that you mix with water - not the powered rooting hormone under the Hormex line. This is used once you have roots or for existing roots, again used at least once a week or at every watering. It’s a little vague on when and how etc because your watering time may vary according to what your media is and your environment is. Orchids truly like a lot of water especially during active growing periods. In most of their natural habitats - they get downpours every day and then dry off but their humidity is still a minimum 50-60% at least and up to 70-80%. Or like cloud forest types they are in 80-90% humidity all the time. Keep in mind there are those species that don’t want high humidity or need harder dry downs etc. It’s important that you know your plants and where they started. With intergenics, it’s can be difficult try to match up those needs whether it’s moisture levels, humidity needs, light, temperature, etc. and if you can provide the high humidity needs - make sure that you keep both ventilation (removal of stagnant air and the intake of fresh air), and circulation (movement of air around the plants) approximate. On most orchids - you got to keep those leaves and roots in movement at all times to keep disease down but also allowing the plants to complete their respiratory process going and their photosynthesis going so they utilize their water and feed to high level. It’s also important that you don’t crowd your orchids so air movement is always around them. The old saying use to be and it’s just as true today - if a cat can’t move around and between plants - they are too close. Really plants shouldn’t touch - keep this “cat” through the plants in mind when you add to collections. Either make more room (add more benches, enlarge your greenhouse or lathe house) or sell some plants that you have decided you might not want anymore. Take pictures of your plants in bloom from the first or preferably the second blooming as they can change considerably in color, size, shape, put in vinyl packets, or have it laminated and keep it with the plant so you can decide if you want to sell. To be honest, hybrid crosses rarely come out as nice plants. The percentages of a super nice cross that suits showing qualifications or even particular tastes. Sometimes we keep them just because it’s sentimental or you love the fragrance, or it’s really a nice color but if you show, you know it won’t ever win a ribbon so you don’t want it to take up space on the bench that something really nice that will win, or you know it will turn out ie a mericlone.
Lol the caption's call u jenny danny haha
😁
Bonsoir''avez vous vendez vanda 'merci
hi Danny! I like too Vanda-type orchids, but unfortunately, there is not enough opportunity here! I live in Hungary and due to the long delivery, I only dared to order from Poland and Germany. Can you offer me a European site where I can find more special Vanda types? Mimi palmer is my old wish! Thanks for the help! Alice
There was a bug on the flower spike and and crawling on the flowersduring the close ups
my R.Colemarie is not fragrent, maybe it is her first bloom????
+Denise H could be yes :)
how are these girls doing now?
Very well actually, will make an update soon :D
just wondering. I have an orchid with a very long stem and i am wondering if i should cut it or not. Its becoming slightly annoying. However. Im scared that i will kill it by doing so. even if its dead tissue? should i cover the wound with cinnamon? shes a very happy Phal btw. any help??
Also. Its a phalaenopsis and i am wondering if i should get seramis and pot it in that. ive never used seramis before and its growing a new flower spike so i will wait till thats dry.
If the stem at the bottom is really dry and without roots, you can definitely cut it, but you don't necessarily have to. If it is still alive, do not cut! It is not reasonable to just cut away healthy tissue.
As to Seramis, it is a preference thing. The bark in the Seramis bark mix is higher quality, or at least ok-ish, but the Seramis itself is very very dusty and also retains more moisture. If you decide to get Seramis, flush it properly and watch how fast it will dry to adjust watering schedule.
Good luck :)
Lela Dol Well... Yed its dry but has alot of roots. i wont be cutting it for about a year but i just wanna be ready.