Good video. It was interesting to contrast your laminated approach to the stem with Johan (of RAN sailing) and his three piece fabrication. Good to have Finland onboard with NATO.😀👍
I find your videos fascinating, my Grand Dad was a shipwright and taught me to always embrace new ways of doing things. He would have loved watching your project . Much success going forward. tm
A great thank you, giving me a happy face after viewing your work. Best wishes to your sale build. Now thinking of the future of the day of lauching the sale boat, I will be glad to be there to see....... :)
Great progress keep on. There are a few tools you could be using to whip those parts into shape. Chain saw, bansaw and circular saw make quick work getting the angles where you want them..
Hi, Great achievement so far and very educational. For your 3d routing you may consider to use an router bit with an angle to finish the actual shape. It might reduce your manual work.
Would you consider using steam to bend tight corners? You don’t need to steam the whole board, just steam where it’s going to bend. Steam, then clamp in the form, let it set and dry. Then epoxy and reclamp.
Steaming also needs days to dry them back which would increase the work time alot. Just heating could work. But I think it's not really necessary. I could use steaming in future some tight things like knees for the deck joint. We'll see.
@@wmillios Steam iron on tightest bend. Small puffs steam and heat, after bending little more heat to dry. Spreading epoxy not so easy on curved boards but I think it's worth. Way less force needed.
I will want to see this floating. I and my brother build a 52 foot ferro boat. We launched 2005. We still sail her. The hull is like it was 2005 Strong no faults
Just found your channel. That is lovely pine for your stem. Do you have enough stock for a could moulded dingy? An excellent pallet cleanse for such a long project. You will need a appropriate tender for your project.
I don’t think there’s enough for dinghy. But you’re right, boat needs a dinghy. Haven’t yet made my mind what kind it should be. I’d like it to be sailing dinghy, most definitely electric. So inflatable might be out of question…
How do you set the initial position of the bit? Could you show that sometime please? With a ball mill or a radiused end mill you should be able to cut the beveled sections of the stem pretty close, then a (power) hand plane should bring you even closer, rather than having a stair-step to work down. Kiitos videoista.
I use now the wasteboard surface as zero for Z and to do that I just use piece of paper between the bit and board to find “contact”. It’s pretty easy. I could use ball mill to make “perfect” surface but I also would need to model the surface differently. These steps are just easier to handle and visualise and smoothing them later isn’t that big of a job afterwards. I’m however probably going to shape the rudder with the CNC some day… 😉
If you started fixing the slats to the mold from the center of the curve outwards, wouldn't it avoid, or at least minimize the risk of cracks? Keep up the good work!
Hi! Where ever I start the bending I need to put the dowel to keep the slats still. It’s just way easier to start from the end and I think there’s not really difference for the cracking possibility with that. The curve profile is the reason. In this case the bow curve just is quite tight. Especially with the first slats.
You should have no problem getting wood, your slow growing timber must be the best, I've found our Irish grown timber is useless for any GOOD project except fence posts, good luck with this massive project
It's really really hard to find slowly grown timber in Finland nowadays. All forests are grown as quickly as possible to give maximum profit for paper factories. Woods are being fertilized and too wet areas has digged ditches etc. Wood quality is very bad and all timber have knots all over. Quality trees are always very old and slowly grown. It can take two hundred years to grow good pine tree with no knots on it. Too slow for modern human... That's one reason I cannot do things from massive wood but make the properties better by laminating it.
Very nice video showing the front structure of the boat. I like your decision to make the stem (is that right?) in two haves as by having the middle flat, mounting the stem half for the CNC to carve becomes a much easier project. Now that you have 1 cm steps, when you do the actual piece will you make more passes reducing the steps to 5 mm or even less or do you intend to smooth it all by hand? The only problem once a video comes out...is we can't wait to see the next one!
The 1cm steps are pretty easy to shape down. But nothing really prevents using 5mm steps. Just need to add some lines. I could actually do that. It wouldn't bring up the milling time if I'm doing 5mm cuts anyway.
Great video. Your videos keep me watching we’re other boat videos I just kinda listen/watch. I have a question about your cnc router. Is it possible to use a fly cutter type head like metal machinist do? I under stand the larger diameter cutter would require a slower rotation. But then again a hand planer would probably work fast to level the laminated wood.
Hi! That might be possible but the minimum rpm with the spindle is specified to 9000. So I don’t think fly cutter would be a good idea with those speeds! But the planing bit I used here is super nice and fast! Gonna use that to smooth the surface of the stem! 🙂 And actually, going to do that today! Fingers crossed! 😅
I know lamination is your thing, and for the frames I can see the advantages of that method but I can’t help but wonder if making a 3 piece stem, knee and gripe structure out of solid timber might be a lot quicker and easier. Still needs to be shaped but the whole process of ripping, thicknessing, laminating, trimming, joining sides, etc is avoided. I’d be interested to know why you’ve taken this approach… is it a cost issue perhaps? Solid timber of those dimensions is not cheap - at least in my neck of the woods. : ) Cheers
Well the starting point here was the plans that defined the stem to be laminated and I really didn't question it 🙂 But of course as you said, good quality timber in large dimensions is expensive and also very hard to find! Also making from solid wood brings up the problems using wood in first place. Like checking, swallowing and crooking. And of course this also would prevent using softwoods like pine in most cases. By laminating you can basically eliminate most of the "wooden problems" with cost of a bit extra work.
@@ArcticSeaCamel Sure. Every method has its pluses and minuses - you would need good timber. However I also wonder about using pine in an impact zone like the bow on such a large boat. Conventionally it would be hardwood like oak, not soft pine, although the lamination would add some solidity… it’s the “crush” factor I’d be wondering about… 🤔 Anyway keep up the good work. Having built a couple of boats, both timber and pvc/epoxy sandwich, I’m really enjoying the different processes with this one. Cheers
Nice work but maybe you can use a larger end mill to reduce the time it takes to mill? why not run a roughing pass with the planing bit you have, it would be considerably faster.
I don't have larger end mill at the moment. Maybe I'll get one when I'm cutting the stem... The planing bit could work but I think I'll save it just to make very shallow cuts for now.
Well, the CNC is always vertical so making the actual angle would need very long cutting times and also different kind of model. This is perhaps the simplest way to go.
Sir if you going to Keep the Planner get a new Insert cutter roller for your Planner to help you plan your Plywood. Also the Glue in the Plywood can’t be helping you.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Grand, love that pine!
Good video. It was interesting to contrast your laminated approach to the stem with Johan (of RAN sailing) and his three piece fabrication. Good to have Finland onboard with NATO.😀👍
I find your videos fascinating, my Grand Dad was a shipwright and taught me to always embrace new ways of doing things. He would have loved watching your project . Much success going forward. tm
A great thank you, giving me a happy face after viewing your work. Best wishes to your sale build. Now thinking of the future of the day of lauching the sale boat, I will be glad to be there to see....... :)
Still plenty to do before that day! Remember to subscribe to support that goal! 😄
The new mikrofon works great, even with the wind we hear you perfekt 😊
Great progress keep on. There are a few tools you could be using to whip those parts into shape. Chain saw, bansaw and circular saw make quick work getting the angles where you want them..
And CNC :)
The sound is fine, also in the workshop.
Good job and video, can not wait for the next one.
Hi,
Great achievement so far and very educational.
For your 3d routing you may consider to use an router bit with an angle to finish the actual shape. It might reduce your manual work.
That might be an option. Though the angle changes all the time. What I actually might do is to double the amount and do them with 5mm steps.
Would you consider using steam to bend tight corners? You don’t need to steam the whole board, just steam where it’s going to bend. Steam, then clamp in the form, let it set and dry. Then epoxy and reclamp.
Or look at the heating element they use to bend guitar sides.
Steaming also needs days to dry them back which would increase the work time alot. Just heating could work. But I think it's not really necessary.
I could use steaming in future some tight things like knees for the deck joint. We'll see.
@@wmillios Steam iron on tightest bend. Small puffs steam and heat, after bending little more heat to dry. Spreading epoxy not so easy on curved boards but I think it's worth. Way less force needed.
I used a wallpaper stripper which uses very little water but you would need to build a steam box
keepin on'
I will want to see this floating. I and my brother build a 52 foot ferro boat. We launched 2005. We still sail her. The hull is like it was 2005 Strong no faults
Just found your channel. That is lovely pine for your stem. Do you have enough stock for a could moulded dingy? An excellent pallet cleanse for such a long project. You will need a appropriate tender for your project.
I don’t think there’s enough for dinghy. But you’re right, boat needs a dinghy. Haven’t yet made my mind what kind it should be. I’d like it to be sailing dinghy, most definitely electric. So inflatable might be out of question…
How do you set the initial position of the bit? Could you show that sometime please? With a ball mill or a radiused end mill you should be able to cut the beveled sections of the stem pretty close, then a (power) hand plane should bring you even closer, rather than having a stair-step to work down. Kiitos videoista.
I use now the wasteboard surface as zero for Z and to do that I just use piece of paper between the bit and board to find “contact”. It’s pretty easy.
I could use ball mill to make “perfect” surface but I also would need to model the surface differently. These steps are just easier to handle and visualise and smoothing them later isn’t that big of a job afterwards.
I’m however probably going to shape the rudder with the CNC some day… 😉
If you started fixing the slats to the mold from the center of the curve outwards, wouldn't it avoid, or at least minimize the risk of cracks? Keep up the good work!
Hi! Where ever I start the bending I need to put the dowel to keep the slats still. It’s just way easier to start from the end and I think there’s not really difference for the cracking possibility with that. The curve profile is the reason. In this case the bow curve just is quite tight. Especially with the first slats.
You should have no problem getting wood, your slow growing timber must be the best, I've found our Irish grown timber is useless for any GOOD project except fence posts, good luck with this massive project
It's really really hard to find slowly grown timber in Finland nowadays. All forests are grown as quickly as possible to give maximum profit for paper factories. Woods are being fertilized and too wet areas has digged ditches etc. Wood quality is very bad and all timber have knots all over.
Quality trees are always very old and slowly grown. It can take two hundred years to grow good pine tree with no knots on it. Too slow for modern human...
That's one reason I cannot do things from massive wood but make the properties better by laminating it.
Very nice video showing the front structure of the boat. I like your decision to make the stem (is that right?) in two haves as by having the middle flat, mounting the stem half for the CNC to carve becomes a much easier project. Now that you have 1 cm steps, when you do the actual piece will you make more passes reducing the steps to 5 mm or even less or do you intend to smooth it all by hand?
The only problem once a video comes out...is we can't wait to see the next one!
The 1cm steps are pretty easy to shape down. But nothing really prevents using 5mm steps. Just need to add some lines. I could actually do that. It wouldn't bring up the milling time if I'm doing 5mm cuts anyway.
Great video. Your videos keep me watching we’re other boat videos I just kinda listen/watch. I have a question about your cnc router. Is it possible to use a fly cutter type head like metal machinist do? I under stand the larger diameter cutter would require a slower rotation. But then again a hand planer would probably work fast to level the laminated wood.
Hi! That might be possible but the minimum rpm with the spindle is specified to 9000. So I don’t think fly cutter would be a good idea with those speeds!
But the planing bit I used here is super nice and fast! Gonna use that to smooth the surface of the stem! 🙂
And actually, going to do that today! Fingers crossed! 😅
I know lamination is your thing, and for the frames I can see the advantages of that method but I can’t help but wonder if making a 3 piece stem, knee and gripe structure out of solid timber might be a lot quicker and easier.
Still needs to be shaped but the whole process of ripping, thicknessing, laminating, trimming, joining sides, etc is avoided. I’d be interested to know why you’ve taken this approach… is it a cost issue perhaps? Solid timber of those dimensions is not cheap - at least in my neck of the woods. : ) Cheers
Well the starting point here was the plans that defined the stem to be laminated and I really didn't question it 🙂
But of course as you said, good quality timber in large dimensions is expensive and also very hard to find! Also making from solid wood brings up the problems using wood in first place. Like checking, swallowing and crooking. And of course this also would prevent using softwoods like pine in most cases. By laminating you can basically eliminate most of the "wooden problems" with cost of a bit extra work.
@@ArcticSeaCamel Sure. Every method has its pluses and minuses - you would need good timber. However I also wonder about using pine in an impact zone like the bow on such a large boat. Conventionally it would be hardwood like oak, not soft pine, although the lamination would add some solidity… it’s the “crush” factor I’d be wondering about… 🤔 Anyway keep up the good work. Having built a couple of boats, both timber and pvc/epoxy sandwich, I’m really enjoying the different processes with this one. Cheers
Waxing the table tops may help the boards feed thru.
Yep, I’ve done that some time ago. The latter roller shaft seems to be snapped or something…
Nice work but maybe you can use a larger end mill to reduce the time it takes to mill? why not run a roughing pass with the planing bit you have, it would be considerably faster.
I don't have larger end mill at the moment. Maybe I'll get one when I'm cutting the stem...
The planing bit could work but I think I'll save it just to make very shallow cuts for now.
Hy congratulations for joining the NATO .
I was wondering can you router the the sternn in a angle or is that too complicated..
Nice job by the way .
Well, the CNC is always vertical so making the actual angle would need very long cutting times and also different kind of model. This is perhaps the simplest way to go.
Now you know how they built the pyramids ;)
👏👏
Sir if you going to Keep the Planner get a new Insert cutter roller for your Planner to help you plan your Plywood. Also the Glue in the Plywood can’t be helping you.
I have never seen pine with zero knots.
Welcome to NATO! Sorry that it was necessary.
U should be using High helix single or 2 flute carbide cutters for cnc , and balst some air to clear the tool path...
Yep, I’m gonna buy bigger upcut bit for those deep cuts.