Well for a first attempt that was simply an amazing effort. You used python to bringup the system and do a diagnostic by accessing the syscon chip. You determined the fault was dry paste or no paste under the heat spreader. And you very nearly did a successful de-lid. You can replace the CPU if you have a work station, if you want to try that I have some junk boards with good CPU chips on them, I'm happy to send these to you. We'll done on a excellent and informative recording. 👍 (I'm Timbo by the way, thanks for the shout out)
Hey Timbo, thank you! I really appreciate your comment! I do have an SMD station - hot air and pre-heating - even though I am still practicing on old XBox’s and my success rate is still… improvable to be fair! 😂 But I was indeed thinking of searching for a scrap board to transplant the CPU so your offer is much appreciated - I’ll keep practicing on the Xbox’s first though! Really thank you for all your help and for watching!
Good news we have you here Timbo! :) I was wondering what you've said, because some forums (donbt remember it by now) discussed that the RSX can be frankeinsteined, but the CELL no. Is it possible to get another CELL to the MB? They are not bond together, or it can be re-bonded? :)
@@timdark9282big question for you, I have 2 exact same boards, one with broken cell (during delid) and one with liquid damage but cell nand and sys are OK, can I swap the 3 elements on the board with the broken cell and save it?
@sdfggtfhhyy it is now possible to replace the CELL processor. Adjustments can now be made in syscon to fit a new CELL and marry it to the new motherboard. The problem is you need either specialised equipment or you can use a hot plate to preheat the board and use hot air with a large BGA nozzle to achieve the correct temperature to lift the processor. The bottom line is that it's not easy, and I would advise you to get onto PSX place and ask the community for a good preheat profile. You can also ask Felix how to build your own rework station as this will save you money. (He has already done this, and he may have a post , he can direct you to, on how to do this)
Hi, I just wanted to thank you because, even though you failed to repair your console, you showed me what might be the cause of my problem with the PS3 (exactly the same as yours). I followed your reasoning and your procedures, and now I will try to remove the IHS from the CPU. So I just wanted to thank you and tell you that probably, from your failure, many people like me will be able to solve their problem, so you did not fail. Sincerely, thank you for this video.
Thank you, it's amazing to hear that my video is helping others! That COK-002 board is still in a box, hoping that one day I might be able to fix that damage! Good luck with your PS3!!
Very informative and easy to watch. Gives me enough courage to read the syscon on my A01 that's been sitting in the closet since late 2007. Thank You...
A valiant effort, I'm very similar to you about fixing things, it's not just about the fix, its the journey. We learn alot along the way. Thank you for the content, you have another subscriber ;-)
I just did the EXACT same thing trying the floss method and saw almost the same result. I switched to use a razor blade sooner and saw the same "polishing" exposing some traces but thankfully none of the traces were cut in my case. I also went through a TON of floss and hurt my finger so I definitely feel your pain. Sorry it didnt work out for you in the end 🙂.
Just wanted to drop a thanks on this video. I was getting 1200 error as well and reproduced your syscon tests on my CECHE that I'd picked up years back in an unknown broken state. Saw similar behavior with tmp 0 shooting up and instant shutdown. Much like you with nothing left to lose I went for a CELL delid. Decided to go for the soda-can method (cut up an aluminum soda can into some strips, folding over one end to hold while keeping the other end flat). This seemed to work well as the aluminum somewhat retained its curl from the can before I cut it up, and I could run the strips under the IHS with the curled side "up" to trend away from the substrate. Also used some silicone grease on the bottom side of the pieces so it would glide instead of catch on the substrate whenever it made contact. Still sketchy as hell, but I got lucky and didn't damage the CELL. I did accidentally knock off a tiny capacitor between the CELL and RSX, but was able to bridge it with some solder and it seems ok. Booted it up and it runs like new. Bittersweet how yours turned out but thought you might find it interesting to know as I think your diagnosis was spot-on.
Amazing! Really happy to hear that my tinkering helped someone in bringing back their PS3! Thank you so much for letting me know - and thanks for sharing the "can" method... it looks like there are way too many methods for de-lidding a CELL! :)
@@tony359 That's for sure... was going to go with the nail file method, but all my files snapped when I tried to bend them into an L. Aluminum cans are very thin and easy to come by!
@@mimikomono I am planning to make one. I believe it has to be glowing red for it to bend without snapping. But I guess there are many types and materials around. I’m a bit busy with work, then (spoiler alert!) I have some other PS3 to rescue 🙂
Holy crap man, we're kindred spirits. I've been doing the exact same thing the last two weeks. Trying to revive my ps3. Barely starting to tinker with the Syscon. Literally just got done soldering the lines to the Rx and Tx. Now i gotta figure out how to do the software side and hopefully i can move forward.
For my first time it was ok to do. I didn't capture that part to keep the video to a reasonable length - it's not a syscon tutorial after all - but I can tell you that I didn't have to install any drivers for the UART adaptor. Windows 10 took care of that automatically. I then followed the guide from NSC for python and it just worked - well I had to swap RX with TX and that was it. Finger crossed for your PS3 but I'm sure you can do it! :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Hey boss, any chance you can do a vid showing more of the software side. Your video has been the most uniform of all the other videos when doing this type of thing with the ps3. I need insight, been having so many issues so far with the python script and running the cmd Auth.
@@Derik64 I'm sorry I did not link my source when I published the video - I have now. Please take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/ZvqJQVd5pBY/видео.html - besides being an excellent tutorial you will find a link in the description to a file containing all the documents you may need for the task. As I said the only thing I did differently was NOT to install the drivers, Windows 10 took care of that automatically. In the file you will also find a PDF guide which is basically guiding you through the setup step by step. I am a bit busy with work right now and it would take me a while to make a video on Syscon - what issues are you having? Did you get the right RS232 adaptor?
@@tony359 You're fine. I get it, we're always busy outside of youtube. I'll try uninstalling and reinstalling drivings. I have all the correct stuff and I'm familiar with NSC. Followed his video to the T until i started getting line errors after typing "AUTH". Actually you'll see that I left a comment on that same video XD. PSX Place has been down for almost two days at this point too and it's the only place that i've managed to find a result in google saying the exact same issue with the search results. I'll keep at it all the same. This whole thing started with just NEC Tokens and, well......yeah
@@Derik64 when you run the script, do you get a ‘>’? Is the error appearing when you type ‘AUTH’? And what error is that? In my understanding if you get ‘>’ that should confirm that the serial adaptor works. If you can’t authorise, then it should be a connection issue with syscon. Did you try swapping RX with TX at the adaptor and do you have the adaptor set to 3.3V with the jumper? Trying my best to help you here 🙂
Rsx bumpgate. When rsx bumps start to fail, the capacitor swap is a temporary solution to give more power to the remaining bumps. The remaining bumps are then even more stressed and the rsx fully fails when they burn out. Its not the bga balls that fail, its the bumps between the die and the spreader. There is a channel on youtube that explains it. Frankenmod is what you want. A 40nm rsx swapped in.
Great video. I used to fix them back in the day and found it was the mounting mechanism rather than TIM that was the problem. Cutting a square of 0.3mm copper and placing over the CPU and GPU IHS, then reinstalling almost always fixed the issue. Similar "fix" for the RROD on Xbox 360. Removing the xclamps, drilling the chassis, then installing machine screws and nylon spacers to sandwich the chassis, motherboard, CPU and heatsinks together would get at least an extra year out of failing flip-chip connections.
I suggest you check this video: ruclips.net/video/ZvqJQVd5pBY/видео.html - in the description you will find a package with instructions. Make sure you follow them exactly, your issue sounds like a Python issue.
Absolutely! I was so looking forward to seeing it booting up! Well, this has just become another project “finding a dead ps3 and transplant the CPU” 🙂 thanks for watching!
25:58 AFTER SETTING THE EEPROM TO 00 three beeps and flashing read while diag connected to the gnd is not powering up the f32ttl alone and in the cmd is always given the error scopen response invalid , what I m doing wrong?
@@tony359 got subbed. :D No worries. IT is pretty informative. And I have now some information with syscon reader, how n' where to start. So it will not sit around like it did in the past 3 months. ( have a GLOD under my table, waiting for it to get info what is going on) :)
Very good video on PS3 repair. One of the best on using SYSCON on YT. Those traces can be patched with wire as I believe they go to the RAM traces on the PCB above. On YT there is a video of a repair of a lot of 3 PS3s where these traces where patched. YT will not let me link it. The short on the fan thst killed the PSU could have damaged the temp monitor if it measures resistance. Looking forward to a follow up.
Thank you Dean, appreciated! All Syscon credit goes to NSC Modz though, I merely followed his tutorial! I tried patching those traces but the thinner copper wire I have (which I purchased to patch small traces TBH) was too big. Also I noticed the CPU was acting as a heatsink when I was trying to solder. But you're not the first one saying that it's possible so maybe I shall look into that. Can you tell me what's the user who published those videos? I'll search it myself. I'm told that to "marry" a new CPU to the motherboard there are a few Syscon commands to be issued. I am hoping for a follow up - whether to make a Frankenstein or to patch those broken traces I guess :) Thanks for watching!
The video is let’s fix ps3s in 2022 and user name jeffescortlx I think. On the Xbox 360 the temps can be affected by some of the resisters near the GPU from memory. Had one out of range that used to show hot from start that was one of those resisters. Still early day learning on PS3 myself. Good luck and look forward to more videos
i ENJOYED AND LEARNED ALOT I have a YLOD Fat Model CECHC02 with the exact same motherboard COK 002 so Im going to follow your syscon steps and see if I can fix it.
@@tony359 OH KNOW!!! I stuffed the very first step attaching cables to the points on the motherboard to read the syscon codes and burnt off the RX connector point. Is there another way I can solder to the Rx connector point? Please help.
Not rub salt in the wounds but i made a video on de-liding the both chips with a free tool that comes inside the ps3 case and a old tooth brush. works great. enjoyed the syscon info tho great stuff thanks for the video
I watched until the end. Really great vid. Very educational. If you had of been successful with de lidding what would of been the next steps. Were your chances of getting it working higher? Thanks
Thank you! I am told that the dry thermal paste was all that needed replacing on that unit. So sad. The final steps would be to replace/add thermal pads, new thermal paste of course and - recommended - a custom firmware which allows to run the fans harder: Sony apparently decided to have a quieter console rather than a reliable one :) Fan won't speed up until GPU and CPU reach stupid temps... Thanks for watching!
I smashed a ps3 super slim once because I couldn’t figure out why the fan was maxing out. Spent a weeks on it until I realized taking a sledgehammer to it was the end all cure all.
@@tony359 I know 😞 The GPU on the super slim actually doesn’t have an internal heat spreader. The copper heat pipe is directly on the die and for the life of me I could not either: get it tight enough to the die or get the paste just right. Idk definitely R.I.P.
Hello, you can find a list of known error codes here: www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Syscon_Error_Codes It seems that you might have Tokin capacitor issues. Those smoothen up the voltage for the CPU and GPU and they’re notorious for failing. They’re not super easy to replace, there are some videos around which might give you some ideas.
nice efforts! im surprised that dry paste under the ihs would shut it down so instantly. when the dental floss scoured the pcb was it when it was tripled up? i wonder if dental tape would be any better? anyways while its sad this ps3 isnt up again, it was only an 80gb, only 85% bc.
and i would love to know (but i dont want to take it apart and solder and buy that thing) the days my phat 60gb has on it, it ran 24/7 for 8 years, and now just sits quietly with its main power off, waiting to shine gain.
Likely when I tripled it up indeed! No need for floss, I've learnt how to de-lid using a knife. It's safe. I wouldn't have thought it would be safer than dental floss! The instant heat-up can happen, a friend had one with the same issue, removal of IHS and new thermal paste fixed it. Weird though. Thanks for watching!
I still haven't given up on that board. I tried soldering patches but those traces are too many and too close. I know it's doable but... Did you manage to fix yours? Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 it didn’t work. I tried before your reply. When the ferrite bead first blew up it took the solder pad with it. And some of the solder mask was peeling back, where the ferrite bead meets the resistor. And I knocked off the resistor by the cap
Things are so small in there! :) Can still be fixed though you might ask yourself "why did the bead fail in the first place?" :) I hope you can still recover it!
Impressive job! I was thinking, since 100% of laptops that uses those “bulky” caps (electrolytic or tantalum) mostly designed by NEC company, they suffer from the same disease, once windows was loaded cpu temp is like 70+ celsius. Changing them with regular tantalums fixes the issue. Isn’t this the same case here? Pc cpu thermal throttle and only after it reaches 90+ celsius shuts off. I think you can restore the damaged traces above apu pcb, you just need a very thin wire, i suggest using a mesh from a shielded wire (i often uses apple cables using those thin mesh wire) good luck and keep up good work!
Hey thank you for the nice comment! You are not the first one saying I could fix those traces. I tried hard, I bought a very fine tip and wire but I could not fix it. The wire is enameled which really does not work with me as it needs higher temps to melt the coating. I tried for several hours but I could not succeed. Sorry! Thanks for watching!
@@justinc9991 I have a super-fine tip which is kind of pointless as it does not have enough thermal mass and struggles with basically everything. I think I used 0.08mm wire, it's way thinner than most of the shielding found in cables. I think some microphone cable might have what I need - the shield has to be flexible for reliability. I'll check again, thank you!
My experience with the PS4 is limited but it doesn’t have an IHS in my knowledge. So I guess it’s just a matter of replacing thermal paste and make sure all is properly in place.
I've been trying for a while. Too small and too many. I know it can be done but so far I haven't been successful. But I'll keep trying! Thanks for watching!
Atleast it doesn't have the burned NEC tokens due to a bad reflow attempt like my flea market find. It's also YLod but still need to hook the syscon up and have a look at the errors.
I removed a tokin capacitor on a PS3 I am showing on one of my future videos and you do need pre-heating to do that right or you're burning the hell out of the PCB! This was such a nice board, I feel so sorry for breaking it! Thanks for watching!
Yes there was a manufacturing flaw with the earlier revisions of the RSX chip. I mentioned some details in my PS3 repairathon videos, check them out! 🙂
@@tony359 i have the same problem with my CECHA00 which is jailbroken, for a moment i got temps from webman and the CELL was overheating. trying to change the NEC CAPS no luck. some results. i was hoping near the end of the video that you will find a solution...but 😢 CELL delid is really a pain...
I tried. Twice! :) I know it can be done but I was unable to. That said, I used enamelled one which is not great. I might try again but I am not hopeful! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 thanks for replying and it is realy unlucky but you have learned from this mistake and you delidded now 2 cpus and 3 rdx chips successfully so its not a total loss (allways think positive)
@@hannescampidell indeed and thanks. A shame as this one would have been alive by now. It’s still on my bench, one day I might try a CPU replacement (or succeed in apply jumpers!)
@@tony359 yes or use it as a donor because the cpu is married to a few other components but i think it would be worth trying the jumper method it would make a good video
@@hannescampidell I need to try that again indeed. Need to find some non-enamelled copper wire and use a larger tip. I tried with a very small tip but that’s apparently not working (Rossman dixit) as a larger tip has more thermal mass. The issue is that there are just too many broken traces. Even if I fixed one, it would come apart when doing the next one. But I know I could be done.
Well for a first attempt that was simply an amazing effort. You used python to bringup the system and do a diagnostic by accessing the syscon chip. You determined the fault was dry paste or no paste under the heat spreader. And you very nearly did a successful de-lid. You can replace the CPU if you have a work station, if you want to try that I have some junk boards with good CPU chips on them, I'm happy to send these to you. We'll done on a excellent and informative recording. 👍 (I'm Timbo by the way, thanks for the shout out)
Hey Timbo, thank you! I really appreciate your comment! I do have an SMD station - hot air and pre-heating - even though I am still practicing on old XBox’s and my success rate is still… improvable to be fair! 😂
But I was indeed thinking of searching for a scrap board to transplant the CPU so your offer is much appreciated - I’ll keep practicing on the Xbox’s first though! Really thank you for all your help and for watching!
@@tony359 no worries, just private message me on psx place when your ready and I can make the arrangements, keep up the good work!
Good news we have you here Timbo! :) I was wondering what you've said, because some forums (donbt remember it by now) discussed that the RSX can be frankeinsteined, but the CELL no. Is it possible to get another CELL to the MB? They are not bond together, or it can be re-bonded? :)
@@timdark9282big question for you, I have 2 exact same boards, one with broken cell (during delid) and one with liquid damage but cell nand and sys are OK, can I swap the 3 elements on the board with the broken cell and save it?
@sdfggtfhhyy it is now possible to replace the CELL processor. Adjustments can now be made in syscon to fit a new CELL and marry it to the new motherboard. The problem is you need either specialised equipment or you can use a hot plate to preheat the board and use hot air with a large BGA nozzle to achieve the correct temperature to lift the processor. The bottom line is that it's not easy, and I would advise you to get onto PSX place and ask the community for a good preheat profile. You can also ask Felix how to build your own rework station as this will save you money. (He has already done this, and he may have a post , he can direct you to, on how to do this)
Hi, I just wanted to thank you because, even though you failed to repair your console, you showed me what might be the cause of my problem with the PS3 (exactly the same as yours). I followed your reasoning and your procedures, and now I will try to remove the IHS from the CPU. So I just wanted to thank you and tell you that probably, from your failure, many people like me will be able to solve their problem, so you did not fail. Sincerely, thank you for this video.
Thank you, it's amazing to hear that my video is helping others! That COK-002 board is still in a box, hoping that one day I might be able to fix that damage! Good luck with your PS3!!
Very informative and easy to watch. Gives me enough courage to read the syscon on my A01 that's been sitting in the closet since late 2007. Thank You...
Thank you for your kind words! Good luck with your A01, I hope you can revive it!
A valiant effort, I'm very similar to you about fixing things, it's not just about the fix, its the journey. We learn alot along the way. Thank you for the content, you have another subscriber ;-)
Hey thank you!
Thank you. Fantastic video. Loved it. Great process and deductions. I was absolutely gutted at the end. I know that feeling well.
Thank you! My first de-lid... It would been a great repair but no... :) Thanks for watching!
I just did the EXACT same thing trying the floss method and saw almost the same result. I switched to use a razor blade sooner and saw the same "polishing" exposing some traces but thankfully none of the traces were cut in my case. I also went through a TON of floss and hurt my finger so I definitely feel your pain. Sorry it didnt work out for you in the end 🙂.
I know the feeling, I used gloves if not mistaken for the same reason! Glad you stopped before I did! Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to drop a thanks on this video. I was getting 1200 error as well and reproduced your syscon tests on my CECHE that I'd picked up years back in an unknown broken state. Saw similar behavior with tmp 0 shooting up and instant shutdown.
Much like you with nothing left to lose I went for a CELL delid. Decided to go for the soda-can method (cut up an aluminum soda can into some strips, folding over one end to hold while keeping the other end flat). This seemed to work well as the aluminum somewhat retained its curl from the can before I cut it up, and I could run the strips under the IHS with the curled side "up" to trend away from the substrate. Also used some silicone grease on the bottom side of the pieces so it would glide instead of catch on the substrate whenever it made contact.
Still sketchy as hell, but I got lucky and didn't damage the CELL. I did accidentally knock off a tiny capacitor between the CELL and RSX, but was able to bridge it with some solder and it seems ok. Booted it up and it runs like new. Bittersweet how yours turned out but thought you might find it interesting to know as I think your diagnosis was spot-on.
Amazing! Really happy to hear that my tinkering helped someone in bringing back their PS3! Thank you so much for letting me know - and thanks for sharing the "can" method... it looks like there are way too many methods for de-lidding a CELL! :)
@@tony359 That's for sure... was going to go with the nail file method, but all my files snapped when I tried to bend them into an L.
Aluminum cans are very thin and easy to come by!
@@mimikomono I am planning to make one. I believe it has to be glowing red for it to bend without snapping. But I guess there are many types and materials around. I’m a bit busy with work, then (spoiler alert!) I have some other PS3 to rescue 🙂
Holy crap man, we're kindred spirits. I've been doing the exact same thing the last two weeks. Trying to revive my ps3. Barely starting to tinker with the Syscon. Literally just got done soldering the lines to the Rx and Tx. Now i gotta figure out how to do the software side and hopefully i can move forward.
For my first time it was ok to do. I didn't capture that part to keep the video to a reasonable length - it's not a syscon tutorial after all - but I can tell you that I didn't have to install any drivers for the UART adaptor. Windows 10 took care of that automatically. I then followed the guide from NSC for python and it just worked - well I had to swap RX with TX and that was it.
Finger crossed for your PS3 but I'm sure you can do it! :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Hey boss, any chance you can do a vid showing more of the software side. Your video has been the most uniform of all the other videos when doing this type of thing with the ps3. I need insight, been having so many issues so far with the python script and running the cmd Auth.
@@Derik64 I'm sorry I did not link my source when I published the video - I have now. Please take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/ZvqJQVd5pBY/видео.html - besides being an excellent tutorial you will find a link in the description to a file containing all the documents you may need for the task. As I said the only thing I did differently was NOT to install the drivers, Windows 10 took care of that automatically. In the file you will also find a PDF guide which is basically guiding you through the setup step by step.
I am a bit busy with work right now and it would take me a while to make a video on Syscon - what issues are you having? Did you get the right RS232 adaptor?
@@tony359 You're fine. I get it, we're always busy outside of youtube. I'll try uninstalling and reinstalling drivings. I have all the correct stuff and I'm familiar with NSC. Followed his video to the T until i started getting line errors after typing "AUTH". Actually you'll see that I left a comment on that same video XD. PSX Place has been down for almost two days at this point too and it's the only place that i've managed to find a result in google saying the exact same issue with the search results. I'll keep at it all the same. This whole thing started with just NEC Tokens and, well......yeah
@@Derik64 when you run the script, do you get a ‘>’? Is the error appearing when you type ‘AUTH’? And what error is that?
In my understanding if you get ‘>’ that should confirm that the serial adaptor works. If you can’t authorise, then it should be a connection issue with syscon. Did you try swapping RX with TX at the adaptor and do you have the adaptor set to 3.3V with the jumper? Trying my best to help you here 🙂
Rsx bumpgate. When rsx bumps start to fail, the capacitor swap is a temporary solution to give more power to the remaining bumps. The remaining bumps are then even more stressed and the rsx fully fails when they burn out. Its not the bga balls that fail, its the bumps between the die and the spreader.
There is a channel on youtube that explains it.
Frankenmod is what you want. A 40nm rsx swapped in.
Yes I watched that video AFTER I "fixed" this... I'll try a Frankenstein at some point :)
@@tony359 same here. Excited to get my
Fat backwards working again
Great video.
I used to fix them back in the day and found it was the mounting mechanism rather than TIM that was the problem.
Cutting a square of 0.3mm copper and placing over the CPU and GPU IHS, then reinstalling almost always fixed the issue.
Similar "fix" for the RROD on Xbox 360. Removing the xclamps, drilling the chassis, then installing machine screws and nylon spacers to sandwich the chassis, motherboard, CPU and heatsinks together would get at least an extra year out of failing flip-chip connections.
Great to know! Thanks for watching!
After select COM3 i got erro...
ImportError: No module named Crypto.Cipher
can help me?
I suggest you check this video: ruclips.net/video/ZvqJQVd5pBY/видео.html - in the description you will find a package with instructions. Make sure you follow them exactly, your issue sounds like a Python issue.
Oh no Tony! What a shame, so close too, oh well, you can't save them all.
Absolutely! I was so looking forward to seeing it booting up! Well, this has just become another project “finding a dead ps3 and transplant the CPU” 🙂 thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Oh well, I'll look forwards to the transplant video! Dr Frankenstein!
Nice video, you did a great job troubleshooting!
Thank you Sir! So sad that I ruined everything with that floss wire!!!
25:58 AFTER SETTING THE EEPROM TO 00 three beeps and flashing read while diag connected to the gnd is not powering up the f32ttl alone and in the cmd is always given the error scopen response invalid , what I m doing wrong?
I'm really not familiar with that part, I was only following instructions. I'd recommend you asked on PSX Place. Thanks for watching!
I've been looking since February for this. (Thank you psx place guys @ 002 GLOD thread for mentioning this vid.)
Amazing! Super glad my PS3's sacrifice is helping someone! :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 got subbed. :D No worries. IT is pretty informative. And I have now some information with syscon reader, how n' where to start. So it will not sit around like it did in the past 3 months. ( have a GLOD under my table, waiting for it to get info what is going on) :)
Very good video on PS3 repair. One of the best on using SYSCON on YT. Those traces can be patched with wire as I believe they go to the RAM traces on the PCB above. On YT there is a video of a repair of a lot of 3 PS3s where these traces where patched. YT will not let me link it. The short on the fan thst killed the PSU could have damaged the temp monitor if it measures resistance. Looking forward to a follow up.
Thank you Dean, appreciated! All Syscon credit goes to NSC Modz though, I merely followed his tutorial! I tried patching those traces but the thinner copper wire I have (which I purchased to patch small traces TBH) was too big. Also I noticed the CPU was acting as a heatsink when I was trying to solder. But you're not the first one saying that it's possible so maybe I shall look into that. Can you tell me what's the user who published those videos? I'll search it myself.
I'm told that to "marry" a new CPU to the motherboard there are a few Syscon commands to be issued. I am hoping for a follow up - whether to make a Frankenstein or to patch those broken traces I guess :) Thanks for watching!
The video is let’s fix ps3s in 2022 and user name jeffescortlx I think. On the Xbox 360 the temps can be affected by some of the resisters near the GPU from memory. Had one out of range that used to show hot from start that was one of those resisters. Still early day learning on PS3 myself. Good luck and look forward to more videos
@@deansmith6924 thank you, I'll take a look
@@deansmith6924 Found it. Watched it (I had watched before, could not remember). That seems easy LOL. I might give that a go then. Thank you again!
i ENJOYED AND LEARNED ALOT
I have a YLOD Fat Model CECHC02 with the exact same motherboard COK 002 so Im going to follow your syscon steps and see if I can fix it.
Thank you, good luck! Please don't use floss line :) I have some more recent videos where I go through the de-lid process!
@@tony359 OH KNOW!!! I stuffed the very first step attaching cables to the points on the motherboard to read the syscon codes and burnt off the RX connector point. Is there another way I can solder to the Rx connector point? Please help.
I really don't know but COK-002 schematics are available online.
Other than siscon method is there any way available through which we can check how many times and hours Play Station 3 was used?
I believe you can access everything if you ‘jailbreak’ the PS3 which is easy to do nowadays. I believe you can also access the error logs.
Not rub salt in the wounds but i made a video on de-liding the both chips with a free tool that comes inside the ps3 case and a old tooth brush. works great. enjoyed the syscon info tho great stuff thanks for the video
No worries, suggestions are always welcome! I’ll take a look and thanks!
I watched until the end. Really great vid. Very educational.
If you had of been successful with de lidding what would of been the next steps. Were your chances of getting it working higher? Thanks
Thank you! I am told that the dry thermal paste was all that needed replacing on that unit. So sad. The final steps would be to replace/add thermal pads, new thermal paste of course and - recommended - a custom firmware which allows to run the fans harder: Sony apparently decided to have a quieter console rather than a reliable one :) Fan won't speed up until GPU and CPU reach stupid temps... Thanks for watching!
Number 2 and number 4 painters knife removes the IHS easily without scratching anything on the cell/ cpu.
Thank you! I am trying to decide which one of the many methods to follow on my next PS3. thanks for your input and for watching! :)
I smashed a ps3 super slim once because I couldn’t figure out why the fan was maxing out. Spent a weeks on it until I realized taking a sledgehammer to it was the end all cure all.
Nooooo! 😂 I’m not familiar with the super slim but I think some still have the IHS on top of the CPU/GPU. It probably need de-lid. Rest in Peace 😂
@@tony359 I know 😞
The GPU on the super slim actually doesn’t have an internal heat spreader. The copper heat pipe is directly on the die and for the life of me I could not either: get it tight enough to the die or get the paste just right. Idk definitely R.I.P.
Ps3 fat eror cod A0093003 CELL_POW_FAIL poweroff state.. How fix?
Hello, you can find a list of known error codes here: www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Syscon_Error_Codes
It seems that you might have Tokin capacitor issues. Those smoothen up the voltage for the CPU and GPU and they’re notorious for failing. They’re not super easy to replace, there are some videos around which might give you some ideas.
@@tony359 power suply outo put is only 194 omeg is this meaning fulty power suply?!
@@mohandmohand2047 I’m not sure what 194 omeg is but the error code points to the capacitors on the motherboard. Not the power supply.
How did you make the gum soft!? Before flossing it
I think I used some hot air - but it was a long time ago :)
nice efforts! im surprised that dry paste under the ihs would shut it down so instantly. when the dental floss scoured the pcb was it when it was tripled up? i wonder if dental tape would be any better? anyways while its sad this ps3 isnt up again, it was only an 80gb, only 85% bc.
and i would love to know (but i dont want to take it apart and solder and buy that thing) the days my phat 60gb has on it, it ran 24/7 for 8 years, and now just sits quietly with its main power off, waiting to shine gain.
@@r4z4m4t4z You might want to look into custom firmware, it's easy to install nowadays and it might (not sure) give you that info.
Likely when I tripled it up indeed! No need for floss, I've learnt how to de-lid using a knife. It's safe. I wouldn't have thought it would be safer than dental floss! The instant heat-up can happen, a friend had one with the same issue, removal of IHS and new thermal paste fixed it. Weird though. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 i cant jailbreak my ps3, that be sacrilege!
@@r4z4m4t4z ahah I understand. My own PS3 is still stock :)
I have the same problem with my A01. Read the syscon and it was showing South Bridge codes.
I still haven't given up on that board. I tried soldering patches but those traces are too many and too close. I know it's doable but...
Did you manage to fix yours? Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I have not fixed it yet. But could I use a jumper wire from the little resistor by the ferrite bead to the fan connector leg?
is your fan not spinning? You can bypass the ferrite bead but the fan will inject some noise back into the PCB. As a test it should work though.
@@tony359 it didn’t work. I tried before your reply. When the ferrite bead first blew up it took the solder pad with it. And some of the solder mask was peeling back, where the ferrite bead meets the resistor. And I knocked off the resistor by the cap
Things are so small in there! :)
Can still be fixed though you might ask yourself "why did the bead fail in the first place?" :)
I hope you can still recover it!
I did the same thing the first time I delidded a cpu lol.
Frustrating, isn't it? :) Thanks for watching!
Impressive job! I was thinking, since 100% of laptops that uses those “bulky” caps (electrolytic or tantalum) mostly designed by NEC company, they suffer from the same disease, once windows was loaded cpu temp is like 70+ celsius. Changing them with regular tantalums fixes the issue. Isn’t this the same case here? Pc cpu thermal throttle and only after it reaches 90+ celsius shuts off. I think you can restore the damaged traces above apu pcb, you just need a very thin wire, i suggest using a mesh from a shielded wire (i often uses apple cables using those thin mesh wire) good luck and keep up good work!
Hey thank you for the nice comment! You are not the first one saying I could fix those traces. I tried hard, I bought a very fine tip and wire but I could not fix it. The wire is enameled which really does not work with me as it needs higher temps to melt the coating. I tried for several hours but I could not succeed. Sorry! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 wire from external mesh inside a data cable is not enameled. A fine tip is a must…
@@justinc9991 I have a super-fine tip which is kind of pointless as it does not have enough thermal mass and struggles with basically everything. I think I used 0.08mm wire, it's way thinner than most of the shielding found in cables. I think some microphone cable might have what I need - the shield has to be flexible for reliability. I'll check again, thank you!
@@tony359 if you need more thermal power u can always use a hot air station to help the job, or use a preheater for the whole board…
@@justinc9991 Hot air on a stand sounds better - with the pre-heater I would burn my wrists! :) Thank you!
Would anyone know anything that could help my PS4 overheating? Ty
My experience with the PS4 is limited but it doesn’t have an IHS in my knowledge. So I guess it’s just a matter of replacing thermal paste and make sure all is properly in place.
Can’t you do trace repair?
I've been trying for a while. Too small and too many. I know it can be done but so far I haven't been successful. But I'll keep trying! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 np best luck
Atleast it doesn't have the burned NEC tokens due to a bad reflow attempt like my flea market find.
It's also YLod but still need to hook the syscon up and have a look at the errors.
I removed a tokin capacitor on a PS3 I am showing on one of my future videos and you do need pre-heating to do that right or you're burning the hell out of the PCB! This was such a nice board, I feel so sorry for breaking it! Thanks for watching!
Replacing tokins require some tools - or a knife, I understand it’s the latest and greatest method 🙂 good luck!
It seems Play Station 3 fat model was having more faults than other models
Yes there was a manufacturing flaw with the earlier revisions of the RSX chip. I mentioned some details in my PS3 repairathon videos, check them out! 🙂
9:08
My heart!!! hahahahahahaahahahahahaha
my soul left the body for a moment! :)
@@tony359 i have the same problem with my CECHA00 which is jailbroken, for a moment i got temps from webman and the CELL was overheating. trying to change the NEC CAPS no luck. some results. i was hoping near the end of the video that you will find a solution...but 😢 CELL delid is really a pain...
Yes, you need to practice but in the end it's doable. But try on a scrap board please :)
Now get a new balled chip and replace it.
I need to try re-flowing it first. It’s on my to-do list! Thanks for watching!
please try to run tiny jumpers
I tried. Twice! :) I know it can be done but I was unable to. That said, I used enamelled one which is not great. I might try again but I am not hopeful! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 thanks for replying and it is realy unlucky but you have learned from this mistake and you delidded now 2 cpus and 3 rdx chips successfully so its not a total loss (allways think positive)
@@hannescampidell indeed and thanks. A shame as this one would have been alive by now. It’s still on my bench, one day I might try a CPU replacement (or succeed in apply jumpers!)
@@tony359 yes or use it as a donor because the cpu is married to a few other components
but i think it would be worth trying the jumper method it would make a good video
@@hannescampidell I need to try that again indeed. Need to find some non-enamelled copper wire and use a larger tip. I tried with a very small tip but that’s apparently not working (Rossman dixit) as a larger tip has more thermal mass. The issue is that there are just too many broken traces. Even if I fixed one, it would come apart when doing the next one. But I know I could be done.