To reflow the corroded joints I usually use the engraving tool to go over the old solder first to scratch off the some of the oxide on the surface. After that the fresh solder can intrude into the joints through the cleaned spots much easier.
I repaired a game gear with bad caps a while ago and like you say its like trying to solder concrete. I tried a tiny drop of white vinegar and it totally worked, it let me get some new solder on. Obviously I washed the vinegar off after.
I suspect the cleaning fluid did a similar action - I think it's basic though - not acid. But I think it helped. Though Necroware's suggestion is probably the best, I've seen how well those engraves dislodge corrosion. I somehow cannot persuade me to buy one :)
Wow, what a tedious work to get this Apple Computer to work! Congrats on getting that far - and I am really impressed by this bag of replaced capacitors! Hopefully, you will be able to fix the remaining issues of this MAC. Nice video!
For cleaning contacts I'd suggest against wedging cotton-swabs into them, the little hook shapes in the back tend to snag the excessively loose fibers, find a reasonable thickness of plastic and wrap a paper towel over the edge(not too wide), pinch on both sides, IPA or dry. Ideally something even more sturdy like a lintless cloth. The pressure applied to the pins is a function of the plastic thickness picked, and it focuses the cleaning effort all on the areas that will be able to touch the pads.
I see what you mean, thanks for mentioning. I do use a teethless pliers to "flatten" the cotton bud before I stick it in the connector. It didn't feel like it was getting stuck but I see your point, I'll be careful! :) A small piece of plastic sounds like a good idea - but I'd need to use some cloth, blue towel would probably break easily. Thanks again!
How about something like an old credit card, with lintless cloth folded over the edge and taped onto the card to keep it tight. This is basically how the cleaning cartridges for game boys worked.
I've restored quite a few CC in my time for customers. I usually remove the EGRET/CUDA and clean the pads. Nice to see you had no major failure points!
Yes, maybe I could have removed it as well - sometimes it's a balance between "restore it" and "leave it in peace as much as possible as it might break"! :) Thank you!
Leakage is just a given with these Macs. That bath of cleaning solution works real nice. That rubber is the "Varta" of old Quantums! You're so close to a fully working Mac!
@@tony359 Quantums, till you power it up it might still work, though generally it will not. Have had way too many of them do a Deathstar on me, before they vanished off the market.
My colour classic had the filter cap on the RTC battery go electrically leaky, not just physically. This meant that the always on 5v was being pulled down and the computer couldn't be turned on as a result
After a avarage working day on my end, you really cheered me up with this video and especially with your great reaction when the Mac came alive 😊. Really made me smile big time! Thanks!
I have a Macintosh Lisa that was in full working condition up to a decade ago: Hard drive failure.😢 I have kept it well maintained up to that point, but had it in storage until more recently. It still powers up, the screen is out of alignment (Needs adjusting), but it can't read the hard drive anymore, and I have nothing on floppy for it (or anything else for that matter), nor used the floppy drive in decades, only cleaned and lubed it as part of yearly maintenance, which I have done, complete with using (playing with) it for an hour or two, to all of my computers as a practice since since 1980. Id love to sell it, which would do much better in fully working condition, which I don't think it's too far from, even with some other hard drive and a hack of some kind, and have read it's possible (has been done), but that was a long time ago. Side note: I'm on Linux; I don't do Windows, nor Microsoft anything at all for that matter, so no suggestions implying their use considered, and I probably have more suitable tools on Linux for that sort of thing anyhow.
Hard drives will inevitably all fail at some point. I'm not familiar with the Lisa but I'm sure there are alternatives - maybe something you can fit in the HDD casing so it retains the overall look? Well done for giving some yearly TLC to your machines and thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I'm surprised it lasted that long. Yeah, the plan would be to make it go unnoticed, and I am fully capable of making a good and durable mount for it... Taking care of ones stuff, has a much higher return than the little bit of time one saves not doing it. When moving to a more modern computer, I always use the old one on the network, and demote the rest down the chain, so my network also improves over time.
Another great video, cheers! I have had my share of projects like this . . . one thing leads to another, very frustrating but also greatly challenging!
It's rewarding when (IF) you can fix it at the end but yes, it's challenging. Particularly because I don't have spares so it might be even more challenging! Thank you!
Hard drives break when they are opened, if everything works well with the FDD the machine will surely work. Let's assume the power supply is working fine, maybe the problem is coming from the HDD but it's hard to find one of those nowadays (at least without digging through the trash haha) Excellent work as always, a big hug for you!
Yes, I am aware that opening the HDD is not great. To me it was already dead, I opened it for curiosity mostly. That said, older HDDs might be a bit more tolerant to some specks of dust. But it's gone anyways. I now have a BlueSCSI to test but I have also found an issue with the logic board so more tinkering will be required :) Watch this space and thanks for watching!
@@tony359 In computers, the top 3 hardware problems are disk, memory, and power supply (even if you read the correct PSU voltages). I look forward to the next video in 3, 2, 1... 😅
Have a look at the 5v rail with an oscilloscope - you might find the voltage is wildly unstable. The analogue board may need a thorough wash to remove any traces of leaked electrolyte.
Very good point, I shall do - though meanwhile I found a fault with the board and I hope that that is the cause of the instability. I cleaned the analogue board but didn't wash it - I don't feel comfortable in washing the flyback and the various transformers (but I could remove them from the board of course). I'll definitely check the 5V with a scope, thank you!
@@tony359 yeah it's a bit of a pain. I had to do this with a Classic II Analogue board recently. Removed all transformers, coils and the flyback of course. Soaked for a while in hot soapy water then rinsed with distilled water. Seemed to improve things immensely with regard to the voltage stability, which was causing all kinds of failures to boot and wobbly screens. Not sure why, but the voltage regulation seems to be hyper sensitive to whatever leaks out of those capacitors.
@@curtisator42 Ok thanks for that. I spent some time with cotton balls and isopropyl cleaning things around but you might be right. It's a single layer board so removing those big components is not too hard. I'll definitely check the voltages thanks!
41:55 A readily available option is an old SCSI Zip drive. Those aren’t nearly as unreliable as people claim they are, and their performance is quite comparable to the hard drives these Macs shipped with. I booted my Performa 475 from Zip many times.
I thought about that but then I need another scsi ZIP for my windows desktop I guess? Or I could use a bridge Mac system - sometimes I have to consider the space required by those solutions unfortunately🙂 I happen to have an (internal) Zip drive in my quicksilver but I don’t have disks 🙂 I think a bluescsi is a good option for me! Thank you!
@@tony359 For the Windows system (or a modern Mac) it could also be a USB or ATA Zip drive, 100MB or 250MB. Just avoid the ancient parallel port Zip drives, which are hobbled to unbearably slow speeds by the parallel port. 750MB Zip drives can only read, but not write, 100MB Zip disks. 250MB drives can write 100MB disks, but at reduced speed than a 100MB drive.
I had the parallel one and I remember how slow it was :) If I had a USB/ATA Zip, I'd probably buy a SCSI one. But I don't feel like buying two ZIP drives and relevant disks just for that. A BlueSCSI seems to be a better option! You'll see one in the next episode! :)
Thanks! I forgot to share that: it's called "Electrolube SWAS" - it's not cheap but I've been re-using mine for many years. It's water based, so no nasty fumes. But you'll need gloves.
Awesome! Great work Tony. Older PC's seem more straight forward than modern stuff. I have a 2014 Macbook with corrosion damage thats been on my bench. PP3V42 has 1-2.5 ohms of resistance. Got a bench supply to inject voltage into it, and it'd only take 460mA. So some other folks and I have come to the conclusion the SMC is shorted or maybe has some corrosion under it. I need to pickup some stencils and a new SMC. Stencils for some old ram modules I can practice on since I haven't done BGA stuff yet. Hoping my 858D doesn't let me down, its not a very big chip so I should be able to get it. Fingers crossed!
I also have an old macbook - older than that - to look at. It's some friends'. It was shipped to me as "it shuts down after a bit" but it arrived making just a white screen. It might be my next video, I haven't decided yet :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Sounds good! I look forward to maybe seeing it! Still debating on what to do with mine. I got it for $20 without the battery, and a firmware locked 2012 logic board. If I cant fix the 2014 logic board I'll have a chassis doing nothing which is a shame. They're only worth $50 for the entire laptop and the logic boards are listed at $50 on ebay. Not very economical or worth fixing at that point. :( Very good practice and is what I ultimately want to do for work.
With the rust on the pins you could put some "comformal coating" on them to prevent more oxygen getting in to continue the corrosion. It will still continue to rust but it will be slowed down significantly.
capacitors can certainly test ok with test meter but fail under voltage, i had this with one in a Roberts R505 radio, it would go very low resistance when powered but go 'ok' when voltage removed.. they seemed to use one with insufficient voltage rating,
The old dead quantum issue is a nuisance! I laid in a stock of bluescsi boards (I had pcbway make the pcbs and got all the components from LCSC, ended up being pretty cost effective to make 5 boards. Plus lots of tiny fiddly smt work, which is always a good time :) Fun and great video as always!
See if you have the A/ROSE extension in your extensions folder, if you do, remove it. I believe System 7.5 likes to install that one and the only thing that it's good for is crashing the system during the boot process :) (only used by certain really old nubus cards and was never something that caught on so good to remove as it's not applicable to the CC).
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I've got a BlueSCSI to test and I have now found a fault with the board so something is definitely wrong - watch this space :)
I used to repair Video Cassette Recorders back in the day and there was a brand that was renowned to use that same green grease on the plastic deck parts. It sets into a form of solid resin after a few years and locks the deck up solid and, just as you found here in your video, it was a pain to remove. I am not sure what the grease is called or which brand of VCR Deck used it but it is worth noting as you may come across it again in another MAC restore ;)
Hi Georg - the older Quantum drive is terminated - at least I see the resistor packs. But I am assuming it's working. I now have a BlueSCSI for further tests! :) Thanks again!
@@tony359 Dear Tony, yes, Adrian also works with the BlueSCSI. But he also had termination problems (at least on the MacPlus) and had to make a small modification to the Plus board (adding in a diode)... That's why I had the idea that your Color Classic might also have some problems with the termination... But on the other hand: the second hard drive that you took out of the SE works perfectly in the SE (as you said). Perhaps your Color Classic also has an error related to the SCSI controller on the Classic motherboard?!?
@@Mediateritorist the newer Quantum is 100% dead - it doesn't initialise. The older quantum (from the SE) works on the SE. I'll test blueSCSI on the CC soon. And yes, just yesterday I added that diode on the Plus to have termination power. I suspect that if termination was a problem, the drive wouldn't work at all. But the BlueSCSI will tell us if the LB has a problem! (Which it does, little spoiler here!)
I have them - cheap ones, fair enough. I don't think they work with SMD caps, the area to be heated up is very small and there is plastic around it. I guess maybe a proper JBC/Hakko tool might work better than my chinese version though. They work beautifully with SMD components such as ceramic caps and resistors though.
It might be time to consider a good one again though. Like a proper set. I de-solder hundreds of caps - some are stubborn and really require the biggest tips I have - they are soldered on power and ground planes. Hot tweezers won't work there for sure. But for the more "normal" ones... Though, using two irons it only takes 1-2 seconds on the "easy" caps. But thanks for mentioning!
Tony, you have the patience of a Saint, my friend. I use Borax disolved in warm water for everything, but it has been banned in the UK. I buy it in the supermarket here. Cleaning Gold contacts. Just white eraser for pencils. What is the green one you used? That big HDD, they will pull the 12volt rail down to 11.1v at startup. I had 10 in a NAS Raid Array, with 900 watt power supply. Had to mod the psu to 14volts for startup. The battery you replaced, is it rechargeable?
No, the battery is non-rechargeable so a 2032 will work with no mods. The green fluid is Electrolube SWAS. I remember Borax here, I didn't realise it had been banned. Eheh, I like those little challenges, assuming I can get to a working system!
@tony359 Big Clive said about the Borax ban. I use it on carpet, upholstery, clothing. Deodorizing the washing machine. Ant poison is made from Borax + sugar.
5:40 WOW! That big bag stuffed full of caps is only 6 _months_ worth! You _really_ HAVE been busy. Must be a thousand in there, _at least_ . Did these all come from macs?
Unfortunately, this won't work for long with Kontakt 60. Like many contact sprays, Kontakt 60 is corrosive and must be completely removed after a few minutes of exposure, otherwise there won't be much left of the contact surfaces after a while.
Hello - the directions for use of Kontact 60 recommend to rinse it afterwards but not because the spray is corrosive, but because without protection the corroded parts will corrode again. I do have Kontact 61 as well which I usually apply after applying 60 - I rinse with dry contact cleaner in between. But I don't think 60 is corrosive: it's just that it might expose unprotected areas to air, leading to further corrosion. For undamaged gold-plated contacts, Kontact 60 won't corrode them and there won't be any damaged part which might get corroded again later on. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Hi, look on the verdigris and dark coating in the area of application after a while. That is the reason why the technical datasheet recommends to wash it away. Kontakt 60 is very aggressive, if you use it e.g. on a crackling potentiometer (radio), not only will the crackling noise come back, it even eats away the resistance track. Kontact 60 is good for heavily oxidized contacts such as switches, but for electronics it is usually overkill and can cause permanent damage if used incorrectly. Teslanol T6 or maybe even Kontakt 61 is the better option and suitable for permanent application. By the way, gold contacts do not corrode, so no need for Kontakt 60. If they do corrode, the gold plating is already in bad shape and you don't want to damage it further.
@@FooBar-sf2qk Verdigris will be affected of course, that is why it's a good idea to have 61 as a final treatment, to protect with an oil film so air exposure cannot oxidise again. But you don't have uncoated copper contacts on a connector, they would oxidise very rapidly - if you see raw copper, there has been corrosion which has eaten up the coating and that's why using 60 only will "make things worse", but not because the 60 is corrosive! I sent Kontakt kemie and email anyways to clarify.
@@tony359 When verdigris appears after using Kontakt 60 that has not appeared in the same place for decades, then Kontakt 60 cannot be innocent. Verdigris only forms in a short time in corrosive environments. It is not without reason that radio hobbyists warn against the incorrect use of Kontakt 60.
Apologies, I forgot to mention. Electrolube SWAS - it's expensive but I've been re-using it for years. it's designed for ultrasonic but ok for manual as well. It's water based so no nasty fumes - but you'll have to wear gloves.
ahahaha! Maybe, but storing a computer in a shed or uninsulated garage is like storing it in your garden. I know because my "workshop" was one of them before I noticed everything was getting damaged and I decided to insulate it. But yes, a plastic bag would have done wonders... :)
I have to agree with Adrian. What you are doing when removing caps is highly damaging for the circuit board. I’m glad you’ve been lucky until now but you won’t be so happy when you destroy a rare piece of history. The stress you cause with all those heat prolonged heat cycles make the solder pad come loose off the PCB. In fact I find it extremely rude and unprofessional that you take on paid work and doing that to the boards. YOU might get lucky getting it swapped now. But no regard for the future of the product. What a shame to see.
This is a such a strong comment! I appreciate and respect your opinion - though pads and components are designed to get to those temperatures. Yes, those are 30 years old and weakened but between pushing my luck applying torque to them, I'd rather push my luck by working within the original manufacturer specifications. As I said, if that works for you, then happy days. Thanks for watching!
To reflow the corroded joints I usually use the engraving tool to go over the old solder first to scratch off the some of the oxide on the surface. After that the fresh solder can intrude into the joints through the cleaned spots much easier.
Thank you - yes, I learnt that from Bit und Bolts - I just don't have the engraving tool yet :)
Yep, me too! Works for me . . . most of the time!
I repaired a game gear with bad caps a while ago and like you say its like trying to solder concrete. I tried a tiny drop of white vinegar and it totally worked, it let me get some new solder on. Obviously I washed the vinegar off after.
I suspect the cleaning fluid did a similar action - I think it's basic though - not acid. But I think it helped. Though Necroware's suggestion is probably the best, I've seen how well those engraves dislodge corrosion. I somehow cannot persuade me to buy one :)
@@tony359 They cost 15€ incl shipping. Definitely worth it. One of my most used tools.
Wow, what a tedious work to get this Apple Computer to work! Congrats on getting that far - and I am really impressed by this bag of replaced capacitors! Hopefully, you will be able to fix the remaining issues of this MAC. Nice video!
Tedious? Oh no, it's fun! :) Scary sometimes :)
Thank you, fingers crossed!
42:21 Seems like the HDD was trying to play "They Don't Care About Us".
is that a song? :D
@@tony359MJ the King of Pop ;-)
Ah of course! You're right :)
For cleaning contacts I'd suggest against wedging cotton-swabs into them, the little hook shapes in the back tend to snag the excessively loose fibers, find a reasonable thickness of plastic and wrap a paper towel over the edge(not too wide), pinch on both sides, IPA or dry. Ideally something even more sturdy like a lintless cloth. The pressure applied to the pins is a function of the plastic thickness picked, and it focuses the cleaning effort all on the areas that will be able to touch the pads.
I see what you mean, thanks for mentioning. I do use a teethless pliers to "flatten" the cotton bud before I stick it in the connector. It didn't feel like it was getting stuck but I see your point, I'll be careful! :) A small piece of plastic sounds like a good idea - but I'd need to use some cloth, blue towel would probably break easily. Thanks again!
How about something like an old credit card, with lintless cloth folded over the edge and taped onto the card to keep it tight. This is basically how the cleaning cartridges for game boys worked.
@@tookitogoyes that’s also a good idea thanks
Cool stuff. Fingers crossed you manage to get this Mac fully up and running!
Fingers crossed - not it's the coolest part! :)
I've restored quite a few CC in my time for customers. I usually remove the EGRET/CUDA and clean the pads. Nice to see you had no major failure points!
Yes, maybe I could have removed it as well - sometimes it's a balance between "restore it" and "leave it in peace as much as possible as it might break"! :) Thank you!
@@tony359 if you ever need help with a Mac hit me up. I run Amiga of Rochester…guess same holds true for amigas
Thanks Thomas! I found your website! I'll bear that in mind - thanks again for offering!
Leakage is just a given with these Macs. That bath of cleaning solution works real nice. That rubber is the "Varta" of old Quantums! You're so close to a fully working Mac!
Such a shame those HDDs are all failing... :(
@@tony359 Quantums, till you power it up it might still work, though generally it will not. Have had way too many of them do a Deathstar on me, before they vanished off the market.
Best "OMG floppy moved" jump scare in the history of retro channels. :))) Keep it up.
ahahaha yes! I always expect things are exploding on me... :D Thank you!
My colour classic had the filter cap on the RTC battery go electrically leaky, not just physically. This meant that the always on 5v was being pulled down and the computer couldn't be turned on as a result
Those caps need to be replaced as standard... I wish it was a supply issue on mine. I scoped 5V and 12V and they are fine!
After a avarage working day on my end, you really cheered me up with this video and especially with your great reaction when the Mac came alive 😊.
Really made me smile big time! Thanks!
Thanks for that, it makes me happy to know that my video is improving someone else's day :)
Another fascinating and educational journey. Good luck with the further diagnosis, Tony.
Thank you! I look forward to continuing!
I have a Macintosh Lisa that was in full working condition up to a decade ago: Hard drive failure.😢 I have kept it well maintained up to that point, but had it in storage until more recently. It still powers up, the screen is out of alignment (Needs adjusting), but it can't read the hard drive anymore, and I have nothing on floppy for it (or anything else for that matter), nor used the floppy drive in decades, only cleaned and lubed it as part of yearly maintenance, which I have done, complete with using (playing with) it for an hour or two, to all of my computers as a practice since since 1980.
Id love to sell it, which would do much better in fully working condition, which I don't think it's too far from, even with some other hard drive and a hack of some kind, and have read it's possible (has been done), but that was a long time ago.
Side note: I'm on Linux; I don't do Windows, nor Microsoft anything at all for that matter, so no suggestions implying their use considered, and I probably have more suitable tools on Linux for that sort of thing anyhow.
Hard drives will inevitably all fail at some point. I'm not familiar with the Lisa but I'm sure there are alternatives - maybe something you can fit in the HDD casing so it retains the overall look?
Well done for giving some yearly TLC to your machines and thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I'm surprised it lasted that long. Yeah, the plan would be to make it go unnoticed, and I am fully capable of making a good and durable mount for it...
Taking care of ones stuff, has a much higher return than the little bit of time one saves not doing it. When moving to a more modern computer, I always use the old one on the network, and demote the rest down the chain, so my network also improves over time.
The title of this video alone deserves a like. Excellent use of the word breadth. Great job.
ahah thanks!
Another great video, cheers! I have had my share of projects like this . . . one thing leads to another, very frustrating but also greatly challenging!
It's rewarding when (IF) you can fix it at the end but yes, it's challenging. Particularly because I don't have spares so it might be even more challenging! Thank you!
Hard drives break when they are opened, if everything works well with the FDD the machine will surely work. Let's assume the power supply is working fine, maybe the problem is coming from the HDD but it's hard to find one of those nowadays (at least without digging through the trash haha)
Excellent work as always, a big hug for you!
Yes, I am aware that opening the HDD is not great. To me it was already dead, I opened it for curiosity mostly. That said, older HDDs might be a bit more tolerant to some specks of dust. But it's gone anyways. I now have a BlueSCSI to test but I have also found an issue with the logic board so more tinkering will be required :)
Watch this space and thanks for watching!
@@tony359 In computers, the top 3 hardware problems are disk, memory, and power supply (even if you read the correct PSU voltages). I look forward to the next video in 3, 2, 1... 😅
Have a look at the 5v rail with an oscilloscope - you might find the voltage is wildly unstable. The analogue board may need a thorough wash to remove any traces of leaked electrolyte.
Very good point, I shall do - though meanwhile I found a fault with the board and I hope that that is the cause of the instability. I cleaned the analogue board but didn't wash it - I don't feel comfortable in washing the flyback and the various transformers (but I could remove them from the board of course).
I'll definitely check the 5V with a scope, thank you!
@@tony359 yeah it's a bit of a pain. I had to do this with a Classic II Analogue board recently. Removed all transformers, coils and the flyback of course. Soaked for a while in hot soapy water then rinsed with distilled water. Seemed to improve things immensely with regard to the voltage stability, which was causing all kinds of failures to boot and wobbly screens. Not sure why, but the voltage regulation seems to be hyper sensitive to whatever leaks out of those capacitors.
@@curtisator42 Ok thanks for that. I spent some time with cotton balls and isopropyl cleaning things around but you might be right. It's a single layer board so removing those big components is not too hard. I'll definitely check the voltages thanks!
Those hard drives have a rubber bumper under the platter actually too that turn to goo…
Some do have it yes. At that point you see the goo everywhere I think? Sad.
41:55 A readily available option is an old SCSI Zip drive. Those aren’t nearly as unreliable as people claim they are, and their performance is quite comparable to the hard drives these Macs shipped with. I booted my Performa 475 from Zip many times.
I thought about that but then I need another scsi ZIP for my windows desktop I guess? Or I could use a bridge Mac system - sometimes I have to consider the space required by those solutions unfortunately🙂
I happen to have an (internal) Zip drive in my quicksilver but I don’t have disks 🙂
I think a bluescsi is a good option for me! Thank you!
@@tony359 For the Windows system (or a modern Mac) it could also be a USB or ATA Zip drive, 100MB or 250MB. Just avoid the ancient parallel port Zip drives, which are hobbled to unbearably slow speeds by the parallel port. 750MB Zip drives can only read, but not write, 100MB Zip disks. 250MB drives can write 100MB disks, but at reduced speed than a 100MB drive.
I had the parallel one and I remember how slow it was :)
If I had a USB/ATA Zip, I'd probably buy a SCSI one. But I don't feel like buying two ZIP drives and relevant disks just for that. A BlueSCSI seems to be a better option! You'll see one in the next episode! :)
Excellent video and work!! What cleaning solution are you using? Thanks for sharing
Thanks! I forgot to share that: it's called "Electrolube SWAS" - it's not cheap but I've been re-using mine for many years. It's water based, so no nasty fumes. But you'll need gloves.
Awesome! Great work Tony. Older PC's seem more straight forward than modern stuff. I have a 2014 Macbook with corrosion damage thats been on my bench. PP3V42 has 1-2.5 ohms of resistance. Got a bench supply to inject voltage into it, and it'd only take 460mA. So some other folks and I have come to the conclusion the SMC is shorted or maybe has some corrosion under it. I need to pickup some stencils and a new SMC. Stencils for some old ram modules I can practice on since I haven't done BGA stuff yet. Hoping my 858D doesn't let me down, its not a very big chip so I should be able to get it. Fingers crossed!
I also have an old macbook - older than that - to look at. It's some friends'. It was shipped to me as "it shuts down after a bit" but it arrived making just a white screen. It might be my next video, I haven't decided yet :)
Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Sounds good! I look forward to maybe seeing it! Still debating on what to do with mine. I got it for $20 without the battery, and a firmware locked 2012 logic board. If I cant fix the 2014 logic board I'll have a chassis doing nothing which is a shame. They're only worth $50 for the entire laptop and the logic boards are listed at $50 on ebay. Not very economical or worth fixing at that point. :( Very good practice and is what I ultimately want to do for work.
oh yes, the vast majority of repairs I do are "not worth the money" 100% :D
Let's call it permanent training! :)
With the rust on the pins you could put some "comformal coating" on them to prevent more oxygen getting in to continue the corrosion. It will still continue to rust but it will be slowed down significantly.
Thanks - I'll think of something, your idea is good!
capacitors can certainly test ok with test meter but fail under voltage, i had this with one in a Roberts R505 radio, it would go very low resistance when powered but go 'ok' when voltage removed.. they seemed to use one with insufficient voltage rating,
yes, I had that myself on several occasions!
Great video!
Thanks!
Thank you for your hard work! A great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
The old dead quantum issue is a nuisance! I laid in a stock of bluescsi boards (I had pcbway make the pcbs and got all the components from LCSC, ended up being pretty cost effective to make 5 boards. Plus lots of tiny fiddly smt work, which is always a good time :) Fun and great video as always!
I'll have a look myself - I'd like to have one. The owner of the CC sent me one but it will go with the CC. Thanks for watching!
a lot of them caps from the 90's and early 2000's like that have fish oil... they smell great.
aehm... I'm not sure I like that smell! :D
Power supply only regulates the 5V rail, so the 12V rail will not be regulated well.
of course - I was just not expecting 11V :)
@@tony359 I have seen them go anywhere from 10 to 14V, depending on the load on the 5V rail and the load on the 12V rail.
well good to know then! Thank you!
See if you have the A/ROSE extension in your extensions folder, if you do, remove it. I believe System 7.5 likes to install that one and the only thing that it's good for is crashing the system during the boot process :) (only used by certain really old nubus cards and was never something that caught on so good to remove as it's not applicable to the CC).
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I've got a BlueSCSI to test and I have now found a fault with the board so something is definitely wrong - watch this space :)
I used to repair Video Cassette Recorders back in the day and there was a brand that was renowned to use that same green grease on the plastic deck parts. It sets into a form of solid resin after a few years and locks the deck up solid and, just as you found here in your video, it was a pain to remove. I am not sure what the grease is called or which brand of VCR Deck used it but it is worth noting as you may come across it again in another MAC restore ;)
horrible thing! Thankfully those gears can be 3D printed! Thanks for watching!
The video can't get too long, not possible! ;)
ahaha thanks - this is already longer than my mental limit! 48 minutes!!! :)
there must be thousonds of old kaps in that bag! i bet it stinks of fish lol
ahah yes! No, those never leaked, they dried out and read silly numbers but never leaked. The caps on this Mac DID stink though! :D
Very great job, Tony!
Couldn't it be a termination issue to the hard drive to fail? Only a suggestion ;-)
Best Regards, Georg
Hi Georg - the older Quantum drive is terminated - at least I see the resistor packs. But I am assuming it's working. I now have a BlueSCSI for further tests! :) Thanks again!
@@tony359 Dear Tony, yes, Adrian also works with the BlueSCSI. But he also had termination problems (at least on the MacPlus) and had to make a small modification to the Plus board (adding in a diode)... That's why I had the idea that your Color Classic might also have some problems with the termination...
But on the other hand: the second hard drive that you took out of the SE works perfectly in the SE (as you said).
Perhaps your Color Classic also has an error related to the SCSI controller on the Classic motherboard?!?
@@Mediateritorist the newer Quantum is 100% dead - it doesn't initialise. The older quantum (from the SE) works on the SE. I'll test blueSCSI on the CC soon. And yes, just yesterday I added that diode on the Plus to have termination power. I suspect that if termination was a problem, the drive wouldn't work at all. But the BlueSCSI will tell us if the LB has a problem! (Which it does, little spoiler here!)
@@tony359 Oh, thanx for the spoiler 😂 I'm really very excited...
I think it's time for you to buy a pair of hot tweezers. That would be better than using two irons with those caps.
I have them - cheap ones, fair enough. I don't think they work with SMD caps, the area to be heated up is very small and there is plastic around it. I guess maybe a proper JBC/Hakko tool might work better than my chinese version though.
They work beautifully with SMD components such as ceramic caps and resistors though.
@@tony359 Interesting. I admit I haven't tried myself.
It might be time to consider a good one again though. Like a proper set. I de-solder hundreds of caps - some are stubborn and really require the biggest tips I have - they are soldered on power and ground planes. Hot tweezers won't work there for sure. But for the more "normal" ones... Though, using two irons it only takes 1-2 seconds on the "easy" caps. But thanks for mentioning!
Tony, you have the patience of a Saint, my friend.
I use Borax disolved in warm water for everything, but it has been banned in the UK. I buy it in the supermarket here.
Cleaning Gold contacts. Just white eraser for pencils. What is the green one you used?
That big HDD, they will pull the 12volt rail down to 11.1v at startup. I had 10 in a NAS Raid Array, with 900 watt power supply. Had to mod the psu to 14volts for startup.
The battery you replaced, is it rechargeable?
No, the battery is non-rechargeable so a 2032 will work with no mods.
The green fluid is Electrolube SWAS. I remember Borax here, I didn't realise it had been banned.
Eheh, I like those little challenges, assuming I can get to a working system!
@tony359
Big Clive said about the Borax ban. I use it on carpet, upholstery, clothing. Deodorizing the washing machine.
Ant poison is made from Borax + sugar.
If rust or corrosion on chip pins reaches the chip case, the chip is 99% dead.
The Egret is not something you can buy easily unfortunately so I guess it's good until it dies :) Fingers crossed!
Great video. 👍👍
Thanks 👍
22:22 does that tantalum have a small hole in the top? Either blown or about to blow. 🤔
Well spotted! I suspect it's just dirt but I'll double check for safety! I didn't even notice there were tantalums on that board!!
@@tony359no problem. Really enjoying all your videos.😊
5:40 WOW! That big bag stuffed full of caps is only 6 _months_ worth! You _really_ HAVE been busy. Must be a thousand in there, _at least_ . Did these all come from macs?
eheh no, it's a different project! I don't know what to do now, the bag is full... :)
Unfortunately, this won't work for long with Kontakt 60. Like many contact sprays, Kontakt 60 is corrosive and must be completely removed after a few minutes of exposure, otherwise there won't be much left of the contact surfaces after a while.
Hello - the directions for use of Kontact 60 recommend to rinse it afterwards but not because the spray is corrosive, but because without protection the corroded parts will corrode again. I do have Kontact 61 as well which I usually apply after applying 60 - I rinse with dry contact cleaner in between. But I don't think 60 is corrosive: it's just that it might expose unprotected areas to air, leading to further corrosion.
For undamaged gold-plated contacts, Kontact 60 won't corrode them and there won't be any damaged part which might get corroded again later on.
Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Hi, look on the verdigris and dark coating in the area of application after a while. That is the reason why the technical datasheet recommends to wash it away. Kontakt 60 is very aggressive, if you use it e.g. on a crackling potentiometer (radio), not only will the crackling noise come back, it even eats away the resistance track. Kontact 60 is good for heavily oxidized contacts such as switches, but for electronics it is usually overkill and can cause permanent damage if used incorrectly. Teslanol T6 or maybe even Kontakt 61 is the better option and suitable for permanent application.
By the way, gold contacts do not corrode, so no need for Kontakt 60. If they do corrode, the gold plating is already in bad shape and you don't want to damage it further.
@@FooBar-sf2qk Verdigris will be affected of course, that is why it's a good idea to have 61 as a final treatment, to protect with an oil film so air exposure cannot oxidise again. But you don't have uncoated copper contacts on a connector, they would oxidise very rapidly - if you see raw copper, there has been corrosion which has eaten up the coating and that's why using 60 only will "make things worse", but not because the 60 is corrosive!
I sent Kontakt kemie and email anyways to clarify.
@@tony359 When verdigris appears after using Kontakt 60 that has not appeared in the same place for decades, then Kontakt 60 cannot be innocent. Verdigris only forms in a short time in corrosive environments. It is not without reason that radio hobbyists warn against the incorrect use of Kontakt 60.
@@FooBar-sf2qk Do you have a link where this is being discussed?
I would love to know the name of the antioxidant soap so I can try to find it or a similar concoction here.
Apologies, I forgot to mention. Electrolube SWAS - it's expensive but I've been re-using it for years. it's designed for ultrasonic but ok for manual as well. It's water based so no nasty fumes - but you'll have to wear gloves.
You said "cleaning fluid", what is the cleaning fluid that you're using?
it's called Electrolube SWAS, it's a bit expensive but I have been re-using mine for years. Water based (so no nasty fumes) but you'll need gloves.
After solving this mistery you can Apply ;) for a Macintosh Rebuilder Certificate ;)
I'll be a Genius too! :D
When was the plastic bag invented? A simple trash bag, airtide sealed around the Mac and all rust and dirt stay outside over the years.
ahahaha! Maybe, but storing a computer in a shed or uninsulated garage is like storing it in your garden. I know because my "workshop" was one of them before I noticed everything was getting damaged and I decided to insulate it. But yes, a plastic bag would have done wonders... :)
You are right but I sure don’t do that with my stuff in storage but great idea!
buy a lotto ticket if your that lucky by chance at repairing floppy drives :)
ahahaha noooo, it only works with rusted drives unfortunately! :D
I have to agree with Adrian. What you are doing when removing caps is highly damaging for the circuit board. I’m glad you’ve been lucky until now but you won’t be so happy when you destroy a rare piece of history. The stress you cause with all those heat prolonged heat cycles make the solder pad come loose off the PCB. In fact I find it extremely rude and unprofessional that you take on paid work and doing that to the boards. YOU might get lucky getting it swapped now. But no regard for the future of the product. What a shame to see.
This is a such a strong comment! I appreciate and respect your opinion - though pads and components are designed to get to those temperatures. Yes, those are 30 years old and weakened but between pushing my luck applying torque to them, I'd rather push my luck by working within the original manufacturer specifications.
As I said, if that works for you, then happy days. Thanks for watching!