Thanks Dave - that was a very good demo of what you can expect to see if you are not experienced with finishing a guitar. I needed this because I am getting ready to do a few. Thanks again !!
Although I'm not into full instrument building, especially painting them, I find these vids incredibly interesting. And if you told me I would find the material to use as a grain filler in my own workshop, the last thing I'd reach for is drywall compound. Thanks Dave, every day is a school day.
My drummer is an auto body repair guy. He used high build primer on my strat body. Then painted it with Ford race red. And finished with automotive clear lacquer. I wanted it to took look like a Brad Gillis Fernandez. Turned out better than I ever thought it would.
Dave, you are a genius, my friend. I am sure going to use this method, 'cause I normaly fill the grain with watered down kneedable wood. And then you need sanding paper instead of a rag to get rid of the lumps.
I'm curious which wood species has been the easiest to work with. What splinters/cracks while working and what doesn't? If you had to chose a species to build/repair? Love your channel eh!
Thanks for this...I've heard about the technique, never seen it done. Could probably tint the stuff with artist acrylics too, cheaper and easier to handle. Get it with your popsicle sticks at the craft store!
“They sell these without the pop cycle part on it” I laughed so hard! Then felt bad for the imaginary guy who got the pop cycle without the pop cycle part on it.
Is this method only for paint finishes or would it be acceptable for natural staining? I can see how adding tint to the compound might give the grain some "pop" for natural staining, but would it work also for a more natural stain without tint in the compound?
Edit: nevermind you got it 😂 Tiniest spec of compound on the lens Dave. Dont know if you noticed after the upload, doesn't effect the lesson obviously, just concerned about your lens.
I trust you completely Dave. BUT, for my first try at finishing a mahogany guitar body that is happening soon, I am going to use the CrystaLac products I have already purchased. No hard feelings okay?
I HATE that true tone dye, or whatever it's called. I did cut the top off, it was a mess and I DID touched stuff that I liked. That stuff isn't allowed in the house anymore...
With porous Swamp Ash--the trickier than Alder, etc--I use AquaCoat tinted with StewMac&Cheese water-soluble dye, flat-sand down to 300, 3 x coats of Solarez (I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer Brush On), flat sand again with 300 and 400. Then the top finish. I still use old-fashioned lacquer for color and clear. For color coats, I now like what Oxford Supply Windsor ON Canada sells. For top clear I use Belens/Mohawk Finishers Choice or alt String Instrument nitro lacquer. The real stuff. Let that all dry for about 48 hours... or more if I'm busy... buff on my buffing wheel station using StewMac comp sticks. True lacquers without other crap, Mohawk vs. StewMac Colortone dry fast enough to buff in 24 to 48 hours if you do it right in the right conditions. With Colortone you have to wait weeks to not risk screwing your work.
The build streams are always great. Drywall compound...wow, cool.
Thanks Dave - that was a very good demo of what you can expect to see if you are not experienced with finishing a guitar. I needed this because I am getting ready to do a few. Thanks again !!
Although I'm not into full instrument building, especially painting them, I find these vids incredibly interesting. And if you told me I would find the material to use as a grain filler in my own workshop, the last thing I'd reach for is drywall compound. Thanks Dave, every day is a school day.
Cool, thanks!
Wish I had seen this video prior to my last project! Really useful information, thanks Dave!
No worries!
I like these videos Dave, nice change up from the usual repair. cheers from Etobicoke🍺
Glad you like them!
My drummer is an auto body repair guy. He used high build primer on my strat body. Then painted it with Ford race red. And finished with automotive clear lacquer. I wanted it to took look like a Brad Gillis Fernandez. Turned out better than I ever thought it would.
Dave, you are a genius, my friend. I am sure going to use this method, 'cause I normaly fill the grain with watered down kneedable wood. And then you need sanding paper instead of a rag to get rid of the lumps.
Nice finish to begin my day . . . .
Cement Pimple-now that's a band name!!🤘
Ha! Beat me to it.
@@mattliebenau9083 😹
great demo,👍👍
thanks , refinishing an Epiphone les Paul now.
I'm curious which wood species has been the easiest to work with. What splinters/cracks while working and what doesn't? If you had to chose a species to build/repair? Love your channel eh!
ash or mahogany
Good info - good tips. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for scraping the smegma off the lens...for a minute there I though my phone had developed some dead pixels...
Hell yeah love it
Thanks for this...I've heard about the technique, never seen it done. Could probably tint the stuff with artist acrylics too, cheaper and easier to handle. Get it with your popsicle sticks at the craft store!
Go for it!
How does lacquer interact with the drywall compound?
spray some on an see.. what could go wrong it is hidden under sanding sealer.how does that react
The reason I ask is I tried using shellac as a sealer once and it caused the lacquer to develop checking cracks.@@DavesWorldofFunStuff
@@lonnieo3943 If you are looking for a grain filler that is clear and works with any sealer, try GoodFilla's CLEAR grain filler!
Great video.
Thanks for the visit
“They sell these without the pop cycle part on it”
I laughed so hard!
Then felt bad for the imaginary guy who got the pop cycle without the pop cycle part on it.
Tape the stick to that guitar
tuner screwdriver thing in the
background and use that to
whisk it.
i enjoy watching you do this. but im not going to build a guitar lol. nope
Is this method only for paint finishes or would it be acceptable for natural staining? I can see how adding tint to the compound might give the grain some "pop" for natural staining, but would it work also for a more natural stain without tint in the compound?
I don't stain..I use tinted grain filler and shader coats over the sanding sealer
What grit sandpaper did you use in this video?
320
Thanks
Who knew 😊🎉
Edit: nevermind you got it 😂
Tiniest spec of compound on the lens Dave. Dont know if you noticed after the upload, doesn't effect the lesson obviously, just concerned about your lens.
Dan Erlewine calls them hobby sticks.
I trust you completely Dave. BUT, for my first try at finishing a mahogany guitar body that is happening soon, I am going to use the CrystaLac products I have already purchased. No hard feelings okay?
no
I HATE that true tone dye, or whatever it's called. I did cut the top off, it was a mess and I DID touched stuff that I liked. That stuff isn't allowed in the house anymore...
it's not for household use
@@DavesWorldofFunStuff I got the stewmac version. Kinda looks the same...
Would love to watch this but won't watch anything with cursing ..... so .... good luck~
GFO
With porous Swamp Ash--the trickier than Alder, etc--I use AquaCoat tinted with StewMac&Cheese water-soluble dye, flat-sand down to 300, 3 x coats of Solarez (I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer Brush On), flat sand again with 300 and 400. Then the top finish.
I still use old-fashioned lacquer for color and clear. For color coats, I now like what Oxford Supply Windsor ON Canada sells. For top clear I use Belens/Mohawk Finishers Choice or alt String Instrument nitro lacquer. The real stuff. Let that all dry for about 48 hours... or more if I'm busy... buff on my buffing wheel station using StewMac comp sticks.
True lacquers without other crap, Mohawk vs. StewMac Colortone dry fast enough to buff in 24 to 48 hours if you do it right in the right conditions. With Colortone you have to wait weeks to not risk screwing your work.
Dave, noticed your very sensitive to liquids, solids, and air....wtf?
over exposure during my prop shop days= low tolerance. i can not go near fiber glass resin..break out all red
Is Spackle the same as the drywall compound your using?
No they are different
no no no