I had one of those shorted motors. Customer didn't fix it and BIG transformer caught fire and fried the wiring harness. Big mess. Now I unplug that motor and quote the repair.
Mr.Harty your understanding and ability to convey knowledge of these units is exceptional, better than Trane tech. Support. THANK YOU 🙏 for sharing your knowledge. I have a question for you. I have a customer with several old Voyager rtu’s and two of the units have indoor blower motors that run constantly . Both units have had the main circuit boards replaced at some point. They both have the three lead high limit in blower compartment. One unit had the three lead high limit replaced by one of our techs last year. But when you turn the units disconnect off and back on the blower starts up instantly. You can remove the fan wire from Tstat and they still come on instantly. I sat on hold with Trane tech support for two hour on my last trip. The call was for no heat, found draft motor was defective, so I replaced draft motor assembly, and I cleaned the first screen and checked gas pressure. The unit heats properly and cools. However the indoor blower stays on. I tried replacing the three terminal high limit, tco2 . Trane said its probably a bad relay. But both units have newer main circuit boards. Any ideas would be appreciated.
c alessi / The 3 terminal secondary limit switch in the blower compartment will start the blower motor if it trips/opens on high temp in order to cool off a overheated unit. If the wires get misconnected to this limit it is possible to have the blower running all the time, disconnect the wires to the limit with the unit power on and see if the blower stops. If the blower stops, then your switch was likely miswired. **Check the wiring diagram for wire numbers and reconnect, on a known working 3 term limit you should have 24v in and 24v out to the NC term back to the board for the “limit” circuit, the other wire going back to the board is for the Blower relay. ** if the 2 wires going back to the board get misconnected the blower will run all the time.
@@davidharty3653 I Have a 36 Ton Trane Voyager The Gas Heat Is Not Coming On I Traced It Back To The Transformer It lost a Phase on the Primary side I Traced that Lost Phase to the Heating Relay.I Have it Calling For Heat On The BAS But Still Not Calling On Relay.
the old UPC has the test leads at the top right if the main test leads become difficult for jumping. it'll be the Blue/Purple connections. you get a better jump if the leads are clean.
Thanks for your informative video. I watched your part 1 for this unit but I didn't find what I need. My inlet pressure was -3.32 and need to adjust the pressure. This unit gas valve looks a little different to find inlet adjust knob. Is that the one with 2 tiny marking hole with 3 torxs screws on?
This is video was AWESOME!! Just worked on one of these today. Inducer Motor running constant, bumped it into heating mode and a bunch of water spit out the exhaust. Great diagnosis!! Sounds like I need a new motor and relay kit!! Is there a chance the Ignition board is bad or would your money be on how the inducer motor is wired with constant power on red?
Wow i spent 2 days on one of those damn units several years ago. Trane tech support no help as usual. We only have 1 and i shutter every time i see that damn thing pop up on my calendar for anything other than maintenance.
Hello David, have you had an issue where the ignition boardat the s1 and L1 have burnt? I've checked wiring and insulation is fine. I replaced the board and hsi, and a week later it did the same thing. Any suggestions?
This was a great video Dave. You covered some issues I have come across lol,wish I knew this then. Brotha no more Metrotech,I wonder how I can contact you. You mentioned including info about codes but I cannot find that email info. Wonder if it was pulled
How is that fan wired? Because i have one fan not working and one working. I should measure 220v on 2 of the wires (4 goes inside him; 2 speed fan) but I didn't measure 220 not even the working one. I'm doing somenting wrong, and I don't know what. On the fan i have a scheme that say this: in high speed: purple-line, black-line, orange-ins, red-ins. On low speed: purple and red line and line, and and black and orange are makeing a star(there are connection between them).
Redinciuc Andrei Cosmin / Purple is common, Purple to Red on the unit side of the plug should be hot 230V all the time / if not you possibly have a bad (Big) transformer (test Y! To Y2 on TNS2 the big trans, should be 220-230V there)
David Harty hey hey, Dave does the board send power out on black or orange...from what I'm understanding if red to purple(common) should always have 208/230v then the motor should always run? I know I'm missing this one...just odd
Hey David. What tells the inducer to come on? The board correct? If red has constant power and purple is common...what the heck is the black and orange for...I see one for N/c contacts and 1 for normally open? Any help brother
HVAC/R DUDE Black and Orange are Low and High Speed windings for Low Fire W! And High Fire W2 Black - Applying Voltage into black via Contacts in IGN Module is the High Speed / High Fire windings only / W2, and comes out on purple (Common) Orange - In Low speed/ Low fire Constant Power into motor on red, thru 1st set of windings and out on orange to IGN Module, IGN Closes a NO contact and sends power coming out of 1st set of windings on Orange back into motor on Black and thru 2nd set of windings (in series with 1st set of windings) and out on Purple to common. See Electrical Print for Induced Draft Motor Schematic
Hello Dave, I'm hoping you can offer some insight to an issue we are having with a 50 ton Voyager YCH600B. we recently installed the burner plate , comb blower , gas valve and ign to the modulating side (right), of this unit . The constant capacity side (Left) was left in-operational. Well , Gas pressure regulator was set perfectly 10 " wc inlet . and the outlet was - .3........... Ran fine for two weeks . now we find the screen blown out . Is there some way for you to email me ? E.L.
your videos have help me out on a couple of heating service calls for the voyager tranes rtus . Just wanted to say thankyou .
I had one of those shorted motors. Customer didn't fix it and BIG transformer caught fire and fried the wiring harness. Big mess. Now I unplug that motor and quote the repair.
Great video great tip greatly appreciated
Thanks so much! These videos were both very informative. Had one of these giving me a lot of grief this week and these videos were great
Thanks for tech tips keep that in mind about constant running inducer motor!
Thank you for your knowledge I had the same problem Whit a unit like this and figure what's the problem was cause of you thank you a lot !!!
Sure it will help thank you very much for your teaching,very helpful I’ve been learning allot from your videos,thank you
Great stuff. Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge.
Killer great and helpful tutorial...thank you much!
Excellent job and knowledge.
Mr.Harty your understanding and ability to convey knowledge of these units is exceptional, better than Trane tech. Support.
THANK YOU 🙏 for sharing your knowledge.
I have a question for you.
I have a customer with several old Voyager rtu’s and two of the units have indoor blower motors that run constantly .
Both units have had the main circuit boards replaced at some point.
They both have the three lead high limit in blower compartment.
One unit had the three lead high limit replaced by one of our techs last year.
But when you turn the units disconnect off and back on the blower starts up instantly.
You can remove the fan wire from Tstat and they still come on instantly.
I sat on hold with Trane tech support for two hour on my last trip.
The call was for no heat, found draft motor was defective, so I replaced draft motor assembly, and I cleaned the first screen and checked gas pressure.
The unit heats properly and cools.
However the indoor blower stays on.
I tried replacing the three terminal high limit, tco2 .
Trane said its probably a bad relay.
But both units have newer main circuit boards.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
c alessi / The 3 terminal secondary limit switch in the blower compartment will start the blower motor if it trips/opens on high temp in order to cool off a overheated unit.
If the wires get misconnected to this limit it is possible to have the blower running all the time, disconnect the wires to the limit with the unit power on and see if the blower stops.
If the blower stops, then your switch was likely miswired.
**Check the wiring diagram for wire numbers and reconnect, on a known working 3 term limit you should have 24v in and 24v out to the NC term back to the board for the “limit” circuit, the other wire going back to the board is for the Blower relay.
** if the 2 wires going back to the board get misconnected the blower will run all the time.
@@davidharty3653 I Have a 36 Ton Trane Voyager The Gas Heat Is Not Coming On I Traced It Back To The Transformer It lost a Phase on the Primary side I Traced that Lost Phase to the Heating Relay.I Have it Calling For Heat On The BAS But Still Not Calling On Relay.
Thank you for your knowledge sir,,
the old UPC has the test leads at the top right if the main test leads become difficult for jumping. it'll be the Blue/Purple connections. you get a better jump if the leads are clean.
Great video!
Thank you for the video.
Love the tips
VERY NICE
Thanks
Hey David . Do you still the relay isolation relay information .
What are some of the codes for the ignition board flashes
Great videos
Thank you much appreciated
Glad it helped
Thanks for your informative video. I watched your part 1 for this unit but I didn't find what I need. My inlet pressure was -3.32 and need to adjust the pressure. This unit gas valve looks a little different to find inlet adjust knob. Is that the one with 2 tiny marking hole with 3 torxs screws on?
This is video was AWESOME!! Just worked on one of these today. Inducer Motor running constant, bumped it into heating mode and a bunch of water spit out the exhaust. Great diagnosis!! Sounds like I need a new motor and relay kit!! Is there a chance the Ignition board is bad or would your money be on how the inducer motor is wired with constant power on red?
Wow i spent 2 days on one of those damn units several years ago. Trane tech support no help as usual. We only have 1 and i shutter every time i see that damn thing pop up on my calendar for anything other than maintenance.
Hello David, have you had an issue where the ignition boardat the s1 and L1 have burnt? I've checked wiring and insulation is fine. I replaced the board and hsi, and a week later it did the same thing. Any suggestions?
Hey David, you haven’t been turning out videos. Just wondering if you’re ok. We need some of your good new videos.
Can you point me to a part # for that isolation kit?
awsome thank you
David can you do a vid on D/C fault codes on the voyagers
That unit looks like the heat exchanger will soon have holes in it, if not already!!!
I would like info on the service bulletin on the inducer motor repair. my supplier knows nothing about the relay kit
Todd Helms www.dropbox.com/s/7rm915a5r4stohb/Combustion-Fan-Motor-Failure-Modified-07-24-142.pdf?dl=0
This was a great video Dave. You covered some issues I have come across lol,wish I knew this then. Brotha no more Metrotech,I wonder how I can contact you. You mentioned including info about codes but I cannot find that email info. Wonder if it was pulled
How is that fan wired? Because i have one fan not working and one working. I should measure 220v on 2 of the wires (4 goes inside him; 2 speed fan) but I didn't measure 220 not even the working one. I'm doing somenting wrong, and I don't know what. On the fan i have a scheme that say this: in high speed: purple-line, black-line, orange-ins, red-ins. On low speed: purple and red line and line, and and black and orange are makeing a star(there are connection between them).
Redinciuc Andrei Cosmin / Purple is common,
Purple to Red on the unit side of the plug should be hot 230V all the time / if not you possibly have a bad (Big) transformer
(test Y! To Y2 on TNS2 the big trans, should be 220-230V there)
David Harty hey hey, Dave does the board send power out on black or orange...from what I'm understanding if red to purple(common) should always have 208/230v then the motor should always run? I know I'm missing this one...just odd
Hey David. What tells the inducer to come on? The board correct? If red has constant power and purple is common...what the heck is the black and orange for...I see one for N/c contacts and 1 for normally open? Any help brother
HVAC/R DUDE Black and Orange are Low and High Speed windings for Low Fire W! And High Fire W2
Black - Applying Voltage into black via Contacts in IGN Module is the High Speed / High Fire windings only / W2, and comes out on purple (Common)
Orange - In Low speed/ Low fire Constant Power into motor on red, thru 1st set of windings and out on orange to IGN Module, IGN Closes a NO contact and sends power coming out of 1st set of windings on Orange back into motor on Black and thru 2nd set of windings (in series with 1st set of windings) and out on Purple to common.
See Electrical Print for Induced Draft Motor Schematic
David Harty YOU SIR ARE AWESOME!!! THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS!! AS MYSELF TRY AND PASS THE SKILLS ON HERE TOO🔩🔧🔩🔧✌👍👍👍
Hello Dave, I'm hoping you can offer some insight to an issue we are having with a 50 ton Voyager YCH600B. we recently installed the burner plate , comb blower , gas valve and ign to the modulating side (right), of this unit . The constant capacity side (Left) was left in-operational. Well , Gas pressure regulator was set perfectly 10 " wc inlet . and the outlet was - .3........... Ran fine for two weeks . now we find the screen blown out . Is there some way for you to email me ? E.L.
Turns out , The modulating sude should have been set to +.05" , not -.2. The primary fixed capacity work will be completed soon . Stand by ....
side
What's the codes for light in your email can't find
THANKS HELP ME
junk units