Thank you for posting this- I just bought a base '05 R230 in impecable condition. all Vario hydraulics working but looking to do some proactive updating. Klaus, is there a benefit from wiping on rod lubricant to the original components. Is this something to do as standard maintenance routine? Fantastic video series.
Congrats on your '05 R230 (not an R170 as shown in this video). Unless you are in a very corrosive environment, the only preventative maintenance that makes sense on the R230 is moving the top once or twice a year. The cylinder rods are corrosion resistant and actuating them already put a very thin film of oil on them. It is difficult to drain fluid from the R230 pump in model years '03-'05, so preventative fluid flush is not advisable.
@@TopHydraulics interesting - thank you- I note you do not have R230 videos, but the core systems are the same- excluding placement and additional rams. I was planning on winterinsing (Toronto location)and was wondering about removing the front locking ram. Do you have a line break solution, as pulling all the hose from Pump seems 'extensive'
Yes, we have a solution for your R230, but that is better discussed via email. After all, this video pertains to R170s and we don't want to confuse R170 owners. If you go to the contact link on our website www.tophydraulics.com/contact-us and send us a message, then we will be happy to reply.
Hello, I need to replace the front roof cylinder cause its failing. Then i need to refill the hidraulic cause its low, is there anything i have to take care with? Or is just an in and out change and then a refill like you do right there. Thanks a lot for de videos btw.
The system is under high pressure only while the pump is running. Theoretically, there can be a little air pressure in the pump's reservoir after the top has been lowered or after the trunk lid has flipped forward. However, this is a rare situation and it is not dangerous. If you want to be sure there is absolutely no pressure, then remove the fill plug on top of the pump.
Hello and thenk you for all the excellent info! Just one question, after i changed the oil and freed the solenoids to empty the oil from hydravlics as well, i can't prime the pump. There is air in the system and the roof is not working. Do you have any recomendation about how to fully prime the pump?
@@TopHydraulics Thanks for the answer. That's odd because before i ejected the solenoids to extract all of the old oil, roof worked perfectly. After the "full flush" i added oil just at the "top" mark but now the boot opens slowly and the roof never retracts. i even tried opening and closing manually the roof with the air vlve open in case there was air trapped in but nothing changed. I don't know what else to do.
Thank you for posting this- I just bought a base '05 R230 in impecable condition. all Vario hydraulics working but looking to do some proactive updating.
Klaus, is there a benefit from wiping on rod lubricant to the original components. Is this something to do as standard maintenance routine? Fantastic video series.
Congrats on your '05 R230 (not an R170 as shown in this video). Unless you are in a very corrosive environment, the only preventative maintenance that makes sense on the R230 is moving the top once or twice a year. The cylinder rods are corrosion resistant and actuating them already put a very thin film of oil on them. It is difficult to drain fluid from the R230 pump in model years '03-'05, so preventative fluid flush is not advisable.
@@TopHydraulics interesting - thank you- I note you do not have R230 videos, but the core systems are the same- excluding placement and additional rams. I was planning on winterinsing (Toronto location)and was wondering about removing the front locking ram. Do you have a line break solution, as pulling all the hose from Pump seems 'extensive'
Yes, we have a solution for your R230, but that is better discussed via email. After all, this video pertains to R170s and we don't want to confuse R170 owners. If you go to the contact link on our website www.tophydraulics.com/contact-us and send us a message, then we will be happy to reply.
Thanks to be an active person to post some tips to repair this beautiful car ! 🤩👏👍
The R170 SLK is a very well made car, definitely worth fixing
Hello, I need to replace the front roof cylinder cause its failing. Then i need to refill the hidraulic cause its low, is there anything i have to take care with? Or is just an in and out change and then a refill like you do right there. Thanks a lot for de videos btw.
Hello! How i do back the presure in the system if i change a cylinder from the roof?🤔Best Regards!
The system is under high pressure only while the pump is running. Theoretically, there can be a little air pressure in the pump's reservoir after the top has been lowered or after the trunk lid has flipped forward. However, this is a rare situation and it is not dangerous. If you want to be sure there is absolutely no pressure, then remove the fill plug on top of the pump.
Cuando las mangueras están vacías I los cilindros como los relleno ?
The system is self bleeding as long as there is enough fluid in the pump. This means you fill the pump, cycle the top, and fill the pump again.
.....thank you so much....
Hello and thenk you for all the excellent info! Just one question, after i changed the oil and freed the solenoids to empty the oil from hydravlics as well, i can't prime the pump. There is air in the system and the roof is not working. Do you have any recomendation about how to fully prime the pump?
Thanks for asking, the pump is self priming as long as there is enough fluid in it.
@@TopHydraulics Thanks for the answer. That's odd because before i ejected the solenoids to extract all of the old oil, roof worked perfectly. After the "full flush" i added oil just at the "top" mark but now the boot opens slowly and the roof never retracts. i even tried opening and closing manually the roof with the air vlve open in case there was air trapped in but nothing changed. I don't know what else to do.
¿Pudiste resolver?
👍👍👌👌