I have a handful of mauls and splitting axes. The one I was most productive with was a Gerber (Fiskars) 4lb. on a 36" handle. I have a Fiskars Iso-core 8 lb. maul which is a beast and has a hardened poll, that will split better than anything, but tires me out with its weight. I haven't used my Husqvarna much for splitting, but it seems like it would do well on all but the most difficult applications. The more I split, the more I realized how much difference technique and strategy makes when splitting. Learning how to read the wood, and taking slabs off from the outside towards the middle really helped my efficiency. Also, knowing when to cut a notch with a chainsaw and resort to wedges and a sledge hammer saved wasted energy. I always enjoy your videos.
Dennis O'Brien I have the Fiskars ISO-Core splitter as well and you’re right, that sucker will tire you out but it’s the Ayatollah of spotting mauls! I use it on eucalyptus and other difficult wood. Most of my splitting is done with a Fiskars X-27, 4 lb. much more manageable and still very effective. I’ve busted way too many wooden handles overstriking a wedge so it’s Fiskars 100% for me.
I've took your advice and invested in the Ochsenkopf Bavarian Splitting Axe,I'm really impressed with it!.Works well as you said.Cracking video with good solid no nonsense info.
For splitting hardwood, like oak and hickory, I prefer my Gransfor Bruks splitting maul and my Tuatahi work axe. Both are impressive especially the Tuatahi.
Hello Ben. The 'German Maul' with the beard! I have had one of these since the 1980's when I had to split many rounds of Elm up in Yorkshire (up to 32" diameter). I have also had one of those 'Adler Pattern' Axes for about 10 years here in Canada, it is much lighter, but I like it, I rounded off the edges on it and that seems a slight improvement. I have a 5lb Norlund Splitting (sometimes called Rafting Pattern) axe that I recently acquired, the shaft is old and dry so O may need to replace it before frenzied beating of wood. If course wood splitting tools are somewhat dictated by the wood you have access to. Up to three years ago I only split and burned Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir (usually large dry rounds). Up to current date I process Spruce, various types of Birch, Aspen, Canadian Balsam (Noble Fir)? and small diameter Vine Maple (very hard, almost like Beech). Most of the latter species are no more than 18" diameter even though many of my trees are well over 120 feet high. Much of what I am bucking and splitting at the moment is one foot diameter so I prefer using a stubby old double bit axe (where I have more blade width, less weight). The Husqvarna Axe you have seems nice, but I typically keep away from plastic/fibre-glass handles because of the vibes and also cannot customize the handles. To be honest I am not totally convinced that Hickory is the best shafting material for axes either as I have a pile of shafts that have split longitudinally over time. What is your experience of the Husqvarna 'diamond profile' maul, I have often though one might be worth getting my hands on. Best wishes Ben, WS.
funnily enough I have found less problems with shock with my plastic husqvarna than a lot of the thicker hickory handles. The Diamond profile maul is my least favourite to be honest, its stubby at the bit so bounces on hardwood and not quite enough wedge for softwood. Its alright for knotty pieces but honestly the adler beats it in my book. The Poll is pretty much useless for wedges since its so small, at least its not sticky. The maul is a lot more practical than the 1.5kg splitting axe, which frankly i think is useless
Please sir, what kind of maul/axe would be better for really hard wood? Our main firewood here, is from Olive trees. It's realy dry sometimes curly, tough and hard wood. I would really appriciate your opinion. Is any type of Maul, that has worked better for you? Thanks in advance
@@greekveteran2715 Thanks for your question. You need to consider the typical diameter of the logs you will be splitting. I have split Russian Olive which grows in the area where I live, it rarely gets to be more than 9" diameter and is tough and stringy wood. I would say that with logs up to , 12" diameter, that are knotty and sinewy/twisted grained a 3.5lb TO 4lb axe with thicker cheeks would work. With larger diameters I would consider a maul somewhere around 3lbs to 6lbs in weight with a broader cutting edge (I think Husqvarna 5.5lb (total weight) Splitting Axe/maul 28" handle may be a good option if you want a robust tool with low maintenance. I am no fan of mauls or axes with 36" handles, I rarely go beyond 32", this might be different for you depending on your height and fitness. I am not sure of the need to spend a lot of money on a maul (such as HB, or Gransfors Bruk) they don't seem to perform any better than cheaper models.
Great reviews on splitting axes, I have fiskers x27 super splitting axe, fiskers isocore 8 lb splitting maul, husquavarna 2800 splitting axe,all great splitting tools, the secret to splitting rounds,is to put them into a truck tyre, with the inside walls removed, stack them 3 tyre high,and it will save your back,no end, you can fill your split logs into whatever way you wish, less handling involved,👍🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
I've been burning and cutting firewood commercially for over 40 years now and have used pretty much every kind of splitting maul. I can't really speak on splitting softwood as I split mostly oak and hickory. For that I find the Adler type axe to be superior. The only problem with them is I've yet to find one that is as heavy as I'd like. If they made them about a pound heavier they'd be monster splitters. When I have to split big twisted or knotty oak I find them lacking. I normally switch over to wedges or big heavyweight mauls for that. A trick a lot of people around here use to protect the handles from overstrikes is to wrap a few layers of duct tape around the handle, then wrap that with electric fence wire and cover that with more duct tape. Granted it's an ugly solution but it works really well on splitting mauls. Personally I don't worry about overstrikes but I keep a wrapped handle maul around for my less experienced helpers to use.
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks for letting me know! I may pick one up if I don't end up buying a wood splitter. I'm almost 60 so splitting wood isn't as easy as it once was. LOL I was just on a website that sells Muller actually. I'm thinking about getting a little hatchet for wood carving and I'm thinking about one made by Stubai but have never used or seen that brand in person. Have you any experience with them, if so are they any good?
@@benscottwoodchopper I'm sorry, I should have clarified which one I was asking about. I was asking about the Stubai axes. It's good to know about the Mueller brand though as there are a couple of those I'm interested in as well.
My ancient K. Werk maul looks like the German one you have, except for the mushrooming. Mine was likely 6# originally but is a bit less now from sharpening and some chunks broken off the mushroom. I wear safety glasses 🙂 . I should probably take the angle grinder to the poll but knowing my forbears made it the way it is from thousands of wedge strikes . . .
Great information Ben, thanks for sharing. I was thinking of getting a new axe to go along with my husky 2.4 70cm axe (which I also love!) for splitting larger half dried rounds. I see there is a lot of cheap copies of that Adler axe. Maybe I’ll try one of those. Or would you still grab the classic heavy maul?
So, what's the differences in terms of build quality and performance, between Gardena axes and Husqvarna axes? They look very similar, Please, are they exactly the same?
Ben, that was a really helpful video, thanks. Would be interesting to hear your thoughts on the Helko Werk Vario axe. Have you used one of those? thanks Phil, Snowdonia.
What do you think about a Binkelhacke,a 450 mm and 1300 g splitting hatchet, i think i will get one in a few weeks. I will buy one since: My problem was that i split some Spruce and Larch today (500 mm lenght, 300 mm diameter). I used an Aluminium Wedge first to make two halfes and the splitting axe to get 4 parts on a short woodblock since i have "Mini"stones as ground. The fourths are still to large so i holt them and used the splittingaxe singlehandily. It worked, but its too heavy for one hans and handle too long. I too had the issue of the "cutting part" being overweight on the splitting axe when using wedges. The edge wanted to turn downwards naturally. Not a big problem, but it gets tiring when you have to apply torsion to stop it from rotating and gliding off the wedge and hitting the floor again, instead of remaining on the wedge. Just a waste of energy lifting it a further 200 mm.
What is the brand and model of the German maul you like in this video? It looks like an Ochsenkopf / Stihl, but I’d like to know for sure. Love the videos by the way!
A bit late to this but I've only lately found your channel and subscribed. A bit boutique but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the Gransfors splitting axe. It has the concave cheek shape that seems to help maintain the split and reduce sticking. Needless to say I have one and think it's a good tool, probably one of the best they make just now. Have you have the chance to use one?
Yes, having tried the Fiskars I thought the same, very similar wedge shape too. No doubt one offers better value. I don't recall if the Fiskars is suitable for banging wedges but the Gransfors splitting axe specifically isn't. Good companion for a heavier conventional/ German pattern maul though, for the second stage or smaller splitting jobs where speed & agility counts. Again, much like the Fiskars.
Great review I agree with many of your conclusions you may have a better outlook on some if you start splitting on the edge of your round hitting in the middle accomplishes nothing hit on the edge and get a better Overall review
I guess the more recent developments in plastic composite handles have resulted in a better user experience than the earlier renditions. How much do those Husqvarna composite splitting axes cost?
Had I not been handed down my german “with wedges” style splitting axe I probably would’ve been leery of them as well. I’ve always seen them in big box stores with goofy hi-vis rubberized handles. I made one modification to mine that might make yours even more effective. I rounded off the wedges, slightly, so in theory it should release much easier in the unlikely occurrence you get it stuck. One thing I would’ve liked to see is the adler on the big beech rounds. Actually try to get it stuck or get defeated by a gnarly piece. Maybe you could send me a short vid later or something. Can you imagine one with a hardened sledge-like pole? It would be god tier. I think you’ve done it my boy. Most comprehensive and legitimately interesting splitting axe video I’ve watched (I’ve watched damn near all of them). Easy to understand and properly demonstrates the capabilities of readily available models. Seriously, great job Ben :)
That was exactly what i found offputing, that head design bieng seen mostly on cheap plasticy hardware store axes. I used it on that same beech tree but forgot to film. Worked just fine, not sticky
Any downside to the Steel collar of some Splitting axes? Balance issues? As far as i know only Bison and Ochsenkopf make them with Collars, kmow any else? Thank you.
I wish they would start back the Adler shape would help on the sticking. I started to buy the ochsenopf splitting axe but though there would be sticking problem due to the heavy weight so I bought the heaviest ochsenopf instead love the pickaroon on bottom of blade
Hardened pole or not, you can certainly bang plastic felling wedges with an axe with little to no damage to the axe. Over time, with heavy use, the head may come loose, but the pole takes no damage that I can see. Although my wedges are plastic not aluminum, and I’m just doing mild farm work, not heavy professional work. Now metal splitting wedges, No.
Yeah I do it all the time, I dont think it really matters however the hardened axes also have thicker steel around the eye which is less likely to be deformed. Its just a nice bonus if the manufacturer actually confirms it can handle the work
Do have any experience with Prandi axes? Do you think the little beard on the German-style maul is meant to maneuver the wood or to help with splitting?
Good to find such a knowledgeable video. I agree the fiskars X27 is very good. I came on here as I was looking to buy the Oxenkauf OX 635. The problem I find is that on knotty soft wood the X27 doesn't work aswell. Can anyone recommend anything. I also tend to get very large rounds of ash when I can. Again the X27 isn't quite up to it. I use a forest master splitter on the pine but could get more done with a maul I reckon
Very good conversation for splitting up the different uses for the different geometries
I have a handful of mauls and splitting axes. The one I was most productive with was a Gerber (Fiskars) 4lb. on a 36" handle. I have a Fiskars Iso-core 8 lb. maul which is a beast and has a hardened poll, that will split better than anything, but tires me out with its weight. I haven't used my Husqvarna much for splitting, but it seems like it would do well on all but the most difficult applications. The more I split, the more I realized how much difference technique and strategy makes when splitting. Learning how to read the wood, and taking slabs off from the outside towards the middle really helped my efficiency. Also, knowing when to cut a notch with a chainsaw and resort to wedges and a sledge hammer saved wasted energy. I always enjoy your videos.
I have used some fiskars axes and they are great. That isocore maul is a very well thought out tool
Dennis O'Brien I have the Fiskars ISO-Core splitter as well and you’re right, that sucker will tire you out but it’s the Ayatollah of spotting mauls! I use it on eucalyptus and other difficult wood. Most of my splitting is done with a Fiskars X-27, 4 lb. much more manageable and still very effective. I’ve busted way too many wooden handles overstriking a wedge so it’s Fiskars 100% for me.
I've took your advice and invested in the Ochsenkopf Bavarian Splitting Axe,I'm really impressed with it!.Works well as you said.Cracking video with good solid no nonsense info.
I’ve just managed to get an Adler axe from eBay solely on your recommendation. Really looking forward to doing some work with it Ben.
Thanks - good stuff. My favourite for the big stuff is the Fiskas 8 lb maul - boom, blows the big tough rounds apart.
Great video summary!
Great review I agree with many of your conclusions
Great presentation!
For splitting hardwood, like oak and hickory, I prefer my Gransfor Bruks splitting maul and my Tuatahi work axe. Both are impressive especially the Tuatahi.
Hello Ben. The 'German Maul' with the beard! I have had one of these since the 1980's when I had to split many rounds of Elm up in Yorkshire (up to 32" diameter). I have also had one of those 'Adler Pattern' Axes for about 10 years here in Canada, it is much lighter, but I like it, I rounded off the edges on it and that seems a slight improvement. I have a 5lb Norlund Splitting (sometimes called Rafting Pattern) axe that I recently acquired, the shaft is old and dry so O may need to replace it before frenzied beating of wood. If course wood splitting tools are somewhat dictated by the wood you have access to. Up to three years ago I only split and burned Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir (usually large dry rounds). Up to current date I process Spruce, various types of Birch, Aspen, Canadian Balsam (Noble Fir)? and small diameter Vine Maple (very hard, almost like Beech). Most of the latter species are no more than 18" diameter even though many of my trees are well over 120 feet high. Much of what I am bucking and splitting at the moment is one foot diameter so I prefer using a stubby old double bit axe (where I have more blade width, less weight). The Husqvarna Axe you have seems nice, but I typically keep away from plastic/fibre-glass handles because of the vibes and also cannot customize the handles. To be honest I am not totally convinced that Hickory is the best shafting material for axes either as I have a pile of shafts that have split longitudinally over time. What is your experience of the Husqvarna 'diamond profile' maul, I have often though one might be worth getting my hands on. Best wishes Ben, WS.
funnily enough I have found less problems with shock with my plastic husqvarna than a lot of the thicker hickory handles. The Diamond profile maul is my least favourite to be honest, its stubby at the bit so bounces on hardwood and not quite enough wedge for softwood. Its alright for knotty pieces but honestly the adler beats it in my book. The Poll is pretty much useless for wedges since its so small, at least its not sticky. The maul is a lot more practical than the 1.5kg splitting axe, which frankly i think is useless
Please sir, what kind of maul/axe would be better for really hard wood? Our main firewood here, is from Olive trees. It's realy dry sometimes curly, tough and hard wood. I would really appriciate your opinion. Is any type of Maul, that has worked better for you? Thanks in advance
@@greekveteran2715 Thanks for your question. You need to consider the typical diameter of the logs you will be splitting. I have split Russian Olive which grows in the area where I live, it rarely gets to be more than 9" diameter and is tough and stringy wood. I would say that with logs up to , 12" diameter, that are knotty and sinewy/twisted grained a 3.5lb TO 4lb axe with thicker cheeks would work. With larger diameters I would consider a maul somewhere around 3lbs to 6lbs in weight with a broader cutting edge (I think Husqvarna 5.5lb (total weight) Splitting Axe/maul 28" handle may be a good option if you want a robust tool with low maintenance. I am no fan of mauls or axes with 36" handles, I rarely go beyond 32", this might be different for you depending on your height and fitness. I am not sure of the need to spend a lot of money on a maul (such as HB, or Gransfors Bruk) they don't seem to perform any better than cheaper models.
Great reviews on splitting axes, I have fiskers x27 super splitting axe, fiskers isocore 8 lb splitting maul, husquavarna 2800 splitting axe,all great splitting tools, the secret to splitting rounds,is to put them into a truck tyre, with the inside walls removed, stack them 3 tyre high,and it will save your back,no end, you can fill your split logs into whatever way you wish, less handling involved,👍🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
Wich one you like more
And like you I have any ochsenkopf big Splitting maul and I love it By far one of my favorite splitters
Tomorrow I'm going to take a tour of the Adler factory. Do you have any questions you would like me to ask them?
Can't really think of any questions but it would be cool to know if you learn anything interesting
I've been burning and cutting firewood commercially for over 40 years now and have used pretty much every kind of splitting maul. I can't really speak on splitting softwood as I split mostly oak and hickory. For that I find the Adler type axe to be superior. The only problem with them is I've yet to find one that is as heavy as I'd like. If they made them about a pound heavier they'd be monster splitters. When I have to split big twisted or knotty oak I find them lacking. I normally switch over to wedges or big heavyweight mauls for that.
A trick a lot of people around here use to protect the handles from overstrikes is to wrap a few layers of duct tape around the handle, then wrap that with electric fence wire and cover that with more duct tape.
Granted it's an ugly solution but it works really well on splitting mauls. Personally I don't worry about overstrikes but I keep a wrapped handle maul around for my less experienced helpers to use.
Mueller hammerwerk make the adler type in wieghts up to 3kg or 8lb!
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks for letting me know! I may pick one up if I don't end up buying a wood splitter. I'm almost 60 so splitting wood isn't as easy as it once was. LOL
I was just on a website that sells Muller actually. I'm thinking about getting a little hatchet for wood carving and I'm thinking about one made by Stubai but have never used or seen that brand in person. Have you any experience with them, if so are they any good?
@@hildolfrdraugadrottin7279 ive used a few meullers, pretty good qaulity. Not the fanciest but solid workers
@@benscottwoodchopper I'm sorry, I should have clarified which one I was asking about. I was asking about the Stubai axes. It's good to know about the Mueller brand though as there are a couple of those I'm interested in as well.
@@hildolfrdraugadrottin7279 tried stubai too, good quality aswell. most german axes are like that, pretty even across the board
My ancient K. Werk maul looks like the German one you have, except for the mushrooming. Mine was likely 6# originally but is a bit less now from sharpening and some chunks broken off the mushroom. I wear safety glasses 🙂 . I should probably take the angle grinder to the poll but knowing my forbears made it the way it is from thousands of wedge strikes . . .
Oh thats cool, wasnt sure how old this design was and how far it goes back. Yeah I wouldnt like to tamper too much with history
Great information Ben
Cheers! I know you said you had some trouble with knotty wood. Maybe give one of those adler axes a try
@@benscottwoodchopper It is great to see the advantages and disadvantages explained Ben. I might just do that
Great information Ben, thanks for sharing. I was thinking of getting a new axe to go along with my husky 2.4 70cm axe (which I also love!) for splitting larger half dried rounds. I see there is a lot of cheap copies of that Adler axe. Maybe I’ll try one of those. Or would you still grab the classic heavy maul?
Try a copy of the adler
Funfact, even the husquarna is a german axe. It's originally from Gardena which was bought by husquarna. Still made in Germany.
So, what's the differences in terms of build quality and performance, between Gardena axes and Husqvarna axes? They look very similar, Please, are they exactly the same?
@@greekveteran2715 they are. Gardena isn't selling all the models under gardena but it is really just the collor.
@@daweed4255 That's good news! Thanks for the feedback!!
Ben is there anyway you put put individual links to the axes and mauls please in the description
Ben, that was a really helpful video, thanks. Would be interesting to hear your thoughts on the Helko Werk Vario axe. Have you used one of those? thanks Phil, Snowdonia.
No i havent used the vario but the geometry looks as good as any other
What do you think about a Binkelhacke,a 450 mm and 1300 g splitting hatchet, i think i will get one in a few weeks.
I will buy one since:
My problem was that i split some Spruce and Larch today (500 mm lenght, 300 mm diameter).
I used an Aluminium Wedge first to make two halfes and the splitting axe to get 4 parts on a short woodblock since i have "Mini"stones as ground. The fourths are still to large so i holt them and used the splittingaxe singlehandily.
It worked, but its too heavy for one hans and handle too long.
I too had the issue of the "cutting part" being overweight on the splitting axe when using wedges.
The edge wanted to turn downwards naturally. Not a big problem, but it gets tiring when you have to apply torsion to stop it from rotating and gliding off the wedge and hitting the floor again, instead of remaining on the wedge. Just a waste of energy lifting it a further 200 mm.
What is the brand and model of the German maul you like in this video? It looks like an Ochsenkopf / Stihl, but I’d like to know for sure. Love the videos by the way!
Its the same as the stihl ones
A bit late to this but I've only lately found your channel and subscribed.
A bit boutique but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the Gransfors splitting axe. It has the concave cheek shape that seems to help maintain the split and reduce sticking.
Needless to say I have one and think it's a good tool, probably one of the best they make just now.
Have you have the chance to use one?
I have used the maul and it is one of the few products from gransfors that I like, not much better than fiskars however
Yes, having tried the Fiskars I thought the same, very similar wedge shape too.
No doubt one offers better value. I don't recall if the Fiskars is suitable for banging wedges but the Gransfors splitting axe specifically isn't. Good companion for a heavier conventional/ German pattern maul though, for the second stage or smaller splitting jobs where speed & agility counts. Again, much like the Fiskars.
@@jncg2311 Fiskars also state no steel wedge hitting otherwise you void the waranty.
great video. what model husqvarna is that? the A2400 or the S2800
This one is a2400. S2800 is great also
Great review I agree with many of your conclusions you may have a better outlook on some if you start splitting on the edge of your round hitting in the middle accomplishes nothing hit on the edge and get a better Overall review
On beech I normally hit on the edge like you say but on some of the softwood with knots edge hits dont work well
Thanks for the reply I watch a lot of your videos i Look forward to many more
I guess the more recent developments in plastic composite handles have resulted in a better user experience than the earlier renditions. How much do those Husqvarna composite splitting axes cost?
I got mine for £45
Had I not been handed down my german “with wedges” style splitting axe I probably would’ve been leery of them as well. I’ve always seen them in big box stores with goofy hi-vis rubberized handles. I made one modification to mine that might make yours even more effective. I rounded off the wedges, slightly, so in theory it should release much easier in the unlikely occurrence you get it stuck. One thing I would’ve liked to see is the adler on the big beech rounds. Actually try to get it stuck or get defeated by a gnarly piece. Maybe you could send me a short vid later or something. Can you imagine one with a hardened sledge-like pole? It would be god tier. I think you’ve done it my boy. Most comprehensive and legitimately interesting splitting axe video I’ve watched (I’ve watched damn near all of them). Easy to understand and properly demonstrates the capabilities of readily available models. Seriously, great job Ben :)
That was exactly what i found offputing, that head design bieng seen mostly on cheap plasticy hardware store axes. I used it on that same beech tree but forgot to film. Worked just fine, not sticky
Ben Scott but but I wanna see it! come ooon :(
Is that husquvarna the splitting model or the universal model?
Mine is the universal a2400, still a great splitter though
Did you make any change to the favorite husqvarna after purchase, like angle of grind
Nope its pretty much factory with just some light filing
Great question!
What would you recommend is best tool,for sharping a splitting axe and splitting maul,🇮🇪🇮🇪
@@hotpoker4212 I use and prefer a flat file or bastard file
Any downside to the Steel collar of some Splitting axes? Balance issues? As far as i know only Bison and Ochsenkopf make them with Collars, kmow any else?
Thank you.
I think helko do too and some of the gransfors have them
@@benscottwoodchopper Oh right, forgot GB, Helko i need to check out.
I'd like to know what the German style bearded maul brand name is ifn anyone knows off hand thanks
Дякую👍
-Get a Fiskars
Lifetime warranty
They are good but the husqvarnas are better
Good show I wish they would cross a ox splitting axe with a adler
Ochsenkopf used to make one similar to the adler about 10 years ago
I wish they would start back the Adler shape would help on the sticking. I started to buy the ochsenopf splitting axe but though there would be sticking problem due to the heavy weight so I bought the heaviest ochsenopf instead love the pickaroon on bottom of blade
I'll stick with the good ole Vulcan.. I don't mess with splitting mauls
Vulcan?
@@benscottwoodchopper True Temper Vulcan
Hardened pole or not, you can certainly bang plastic felling wedges with an axe with little to no damage to the axe. Over time, with heavy use, the head may come loose, but the pole takes no damage that I can see. Although my wedges are plastic not aluminum, and I’m just doing mild farm work, not heavy professional work. Now metal splitting wedges, No.
Yeah I do it all the time, I dont think it really matters however the hardened axes also have thicker steel around the eye which is less likely to be deformed. Its just a nice bonus if the manufacturer actually confirms it can handle the work
Do have any experience with Prandi axes? Do you think the little beard on the German-style maul is meant to maneuver the wood or to help with splitting?
It is for moving wood around, and is very handy
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks. makes sense. Have you ever used, or heard much about, a Prandi axe? Another Italian company, I believe.
@@Abbbb225 Yes Prandi seem good but I have not tried, a friend has though and he has been impressed with the quality
The Adler Design is the most effective, but i hate how it looks, so unästethic.
Its ugly but works well, to me that is beautiful design
You haven't included the best splitting axe...Fiskars 27, long handle. Nothing I've found touches it and I split lots of wood.
As i said i cant own every axe, i have however used fiskars, its pretty much the same but not as good as the husqvarna one
Good to find such a knowledgeable video. I agree the fiskars X27 is very good. I came on here as I was looking to buy the Oxenkauf OX 635. The problem I find is that on knotty soft wood the X27 doesn't work aswell. Can anyone recommend anything. I also tend to get very large rounds of ash when I can. Again the X27 isn't quite up to it. I use a forest master splitter on the pine but could get more done with a maul I reckon
@@mattd23 What did you end up going for Matt? I’m in your exact situation, X27 can’t handle the large softwood rounds with massive knots
There's this mad Adler. The head looks a bit like a log grenade Adler or alder. German make. If I find a link I'll post it. forest master log splitter
@@Pr0vost Ive replied on here