My intentions of this video are directed towards helping people get exposed to a variety of splitting tools, and to spark some healthy discussion amongst you all. A lot of the points in this video are coming from my personal observations and could easily be argued for or against depending on a lot of factors. What works for one person might not be realistic for another. Feel free to add-in or make a point against anything that I said in the video. Cheers!
For those of you who heard him say "Not much is known about Japanese logging" I invite you to put that into your RUclips search bar. Quite a bit is known if you take the time to look.
@@Codi_Clapper You're welcome! Great video, I'm currently trying to decide what sort of axe I'll be adding to my collection next and this was very insightful.
Great video. Splitting soft woods has always been my nemesis. Finding the right axe in my arsenal is still something I am experimenting with. Some good tips that I am going to try next time out.
Thank you! I agree, softwoods are so inconsistent. If they were all straight-grained like the cedar that Buckin Billy Ray splits we’d all be having a great time😁😆
Once I got rid of the chopping block, I gained momentum and never had to pick up a round ever again. The Fiskars Isocore maul and X27 really shine then.
Well made vid! I don't have any experience splitting softwood so your thoughts on that were pretty interesting. Agreed on the japanese/husqvarna sledge axe pattern. Those plastic huskys are awesome. Love the slow mo's! 👍👍
Thanks Kurt! I’m not sure that I would choose gum over pine, but it’s definitely not the easiest splitting wood. All the knots from the limbs make it tricky to figure out. Glad to hear you’re still enjoying the plastic husky😁.
I have mostly lodgepole pine, spruce, fir and cottonwood in my area. I burn 4- 6 cords every winter. I used to use a maul but as I get older, it is getting hard on my shoulders, elbows, wrists and hands to use that heavy maul. I found a "Collins Axe" that has been doing a phenomenal job for me. Considerably less force required to accomplish the same job. I still have to use the maul on some harder splitting pieces. But overall, my arms feel way better using the Collins axe. To aid in splitting stroke, I screwed together 2 layers of 4X4s that are perpendicular to each other. Then I put on 1 more layer of perpendicular 2X4s. The 2X4 layer is the layer that I split on. It is easy and cheap to replace those pieces. I also installed a suitcase handle on the side. That gives me roughly 18 more inches of stroke and power on each swing. The splitting block moves easily and protects my edge from hitting dirt.
Great video, when folks ask what’s the best maul or axe, I tell them it depends on what your splitting. Just a suggestion, best splitting block I use is a half sheet of 3/4 plywood. I get full swing and when I glance my bit is protected from the dirt and rocks. Drill a hole in a corner and tie a leash to the plywood and you can easily drag the “block” to the pile, not bring the rounds to the block. Also, in the stringy dense stuff, keep you bit felling sharp, it really reduces the amount of swings it takes.
i have grinders for sharpening any of the few split mauls i own . any real tough stuff i will find a way to bust them open . i think it helps to chop stuff right on the ground although you dont want super soft ground .
I came across the Garant SUPER SPLITTER SPLITTING MAUL about 30 years ago and have never looked back. Go online and check it out. I don’t believe any other design of axe can touch it and I now see that other companies (fisker for one) have copied it. Due to its design it has far less metal touching the wood to cause friction and stall the cut combined with more force pushing sideways to split the wood apart. That along with good technique and a proper height splitting block makes splitting wood a joy to do. Far more efficient than the ones shown in the video. I have a wood/electric forced air furnace for my 2 story house and use about 17 face-cord a winter here in Canada.
Amen! I can't stand picking up logs and trying to balance them on a stump. I split everything on the ground with a golf club like swing. Just keep your feet in front of the wood your splitting. Great video.
Thanks man!! What axe do you like with the golf club swing? I have trouble doing it with heavier axes. A whippy 2.5 lb boys axes seems to work best for me.
I've used a bunch over the years from 4 to 8lbs but settled on the fiskers 6 1/2 lbs splitting axe. I get about 25 or 30 cords out of them before the heads brake of and them get another one. Lifetime warranty I'm on number 5 or 6 now. If I feel nostalgic I grab the old Rockwell patterned plumb felling axe but mostly used that for rough hewing.
@@jasonbowers4388 Wow, you're probably the first person to break that many of them haha. That's a ton of wood! Good to know they are serious about the warranty. That is one thing that the husqvarna axes don't have.
I have the wetterlings splitting mail #146 works great can be a little heavy for me anyway if I knew what I know now I’d get the same style head but a one or 2 pounds lighter.
That’s a sweet axe! Yeah I think there is a general movement towards lighter splitting tools now that more people are using axes, and a lot of buckin Billy Ray influence. I find a 4 pound axe to be pretty much unbeatable for splitting straight-grained wood like maple, ash, oak, and beech. I let my friends use splitting mauls lol.
Interesting video. I love my English Gilpin axe (1898) but am also partial to the Fiskars x27 and Isocore maul for the durability of their handles. I hate having to replace wood handles; it's a pain " in the place where the sun never shines". That Basque axe looks awesome.
I bet that is a really beautiful axe! I agree, why bust up wood handles when the synthetic ones take so much abuse. I love how functional the fiskars axes are, but I think all axe people can agree, they have no soul lol. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I've split a lot of wood, and have never found a better maul than the old rounded-convex-head one my dad had. They don't make 'em like that anymore. Too many are concave now which is stupid, they just get stuck in the wood. We have a lot of fir and pine up here in WA state and they are soft and fibrous as you said.
Nice video. I own several Jauregui Basque axes and they are very efficient in different jobs, from 750grs to 3kgs splitting are like the yours. You are a proudly owner of an axe from the last blacksmith that forge them. Greetings from Spain.
Excellent video codi !! Glad to see you back behind end axe !! I really enjoyed this man, jam packed full of information!! I learned a lot from this, great job man keep up the great work !!
Thanks Joey! Despite what all my friends think, I don’t get to go chop very often. Was a lot of fun😁. Really glad that you enjoyed and found it useful. Always enjoy watching your stuff too!
Good info in this video! Nice breakdown of different species and tools best suited to process them. I find myself gravitating towards the composite handles more and more for splitting simply because of the durability of the handle. Nothing hurts more than seeing a handle you just spend hours making with a big chunk taken out because you overstruck once. And I’m the king breaking handles that way! Haha.
Thanks Mat! I totally agree, I used to hate everything that those plasticky handles stood for, but after busting up some really nice handles I started leaning in their favor. The husqvarna axe was purchased less than 24 hours after breaking my favorite maul handle lol. Sometimes a beater axe is just what you need.
Most damage to handles happen when you strike the round on the side the further from you. When a round is wider than your axeblade strike on the side axebladewidth in from the side. Then turn the wood around and strike on the other side. Only hit further in if the wood is cracked open allready.
Always split rounds and aim for the edges closest to you. If you sink it in the middle of the round it will ruin your handle. Also dont split through knots. Split to the aide and between them. Use this knowledge and save alot energy.
@@Codi_Clapper you also totally ignored using the inversion technique. this is where old felling axes come into their own, as does the huskavarna, just get the axe to bite, dont be fussy, just get it to bite. use the axe as a picker so you dont move . then bring the axe that is now inbedded in the block, raise as normal, then whilst at the top, of your swing, invert it, and bring it pole down first onto the chopping block. nothing survives. it either splits, or the block flies off but mostly it splits, so you never have to deal with a stuck axe. once learned, and its not difficult you will never use the flick again
Someone been watching ole Buckin Billy Ray, Using the flick!!. Thats what he named and is a master at splitting wood with a regular ax vs a splitting maul
Yes sir! Lol. Flick is a game changer. I first picked up on it by accident when I was younger. I was trying to see if I could aim my wood into a pile and split it at the same time. So by striking the wood and angling my axe during the strike, I had found the flick. It wasn’t until a couple years after that I watched an axe to grind documentary. Then I saw that it was a real technique and put two and two together. Buckin has definitely made it popular amongst people today. He has a ton of experience in splitting firewood. Glad to see someone using axes instead of smashing splitting mauls into the dirt lol. Thanks for watching!
Hey Codi! Really good video with some high quality tips. Rare to be found. I've been am using two composite mauls and a composite axe from fiskars for the last few years. That worked pretty well and i would say in hardwoods it can't get any better. No chopping block and a long handle is my favourite to get speed and power. Now i am looking for a new axe because softwoods with knots is always a problem and i've discovered that its more the axe geometry than my technique. Those old style tasmanian axes or maybe a double bit with a pretty sharp edge should do the job much better, but axe industry doesn't have anything for me yet. Sharp, heavy head, long handle, convex geometry. If you know who builds this, tell me. Otherwise i will look for a old head to restaurate and put a long handle on it. Greetings Gerrit
Split away young man !!! but I like my log splitter at my age . I have a awesome axe collection and It looks like you do also . I’ll swing a axe to chop some kindling is about it . Cool video bubba .
Thank you sir! Splitting wood is good fun when you don’t have to do it haha. I will definitely be getting a hydraulic splitter one of these day. Axes is more or less a hobby for me. Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed watching your vid. In the realm of body mechanics, I see you over extending. As for the swing-speed, "economy of motion". I would place a round in the back of the chopping block (depending on diameter of chopping block for "missed strike(s)"... 1st safety. It is best to keep feet in an "A-Frame" posture" (2nd safety), no short cuts since ax can ricochet/ bounce. Nice to see you seem to be in a safe place. Im wooded areas. I do not advocate having all that wood around your feet. In the event of an animal changing you might trip and/ or twist your ankle, just a thought.
Thank you!! Glad you liked the video and my hat haha. This particular hat is a wool felt Outback style hat. It is sold online on Bailey’s Hats. The line of hats is called Wind River, with this model being called the Switchback. I picked it up years ago when my family made a trip out to the Dakotas. Got it at a western shop, but liked that it wasn’t too cowboy looking. It works great as a cool season hat, and is waterproof, so it is a big help in the rain too.
With the Fiskars XXL Maul that you used you destroy Pine. Dont know about Red Mapple but whats the problem with pine? I one shot every pine log with that axe
I run the Fiskars 8lb maul and haven't had any problems in pine or other soft woods. I keep it sharp and reprofiled the transition from edge to cheek to be smooth. I do not like the profile of most of the traditional American splitting mauls. I've tried the typical 5.5 pound Swedish style spitting maul with the long cheeks and also find them to be not very useful for basic splitting due to the long cheeks causing enough friction and binding and slowing the axe head speed down too much before getting to the thicker part of the head which the American patterns also tend to face though to a lesser extent. The German pattern splitting mauls I feel punch above their weight and are the best profile but I wish I could find one weighing 8 pounds instead of the common 6.6 pounds. I have the 3.5 pound Jersey pattern Council Tool and after using it and other axes of similar profile with those hollow cheeks, I now run a 4lb True Temper from the 80s as my main general purpose axe with more of a straight wedge pattern though not quite like the Maine wedge pattern. Despite not penetrating as deep when felling it sticks way less and is more efficient overall and that wedge shape definitely makes it a far better splitter and the extra weight helps. I also tend to split on the ground and I flick both mauls and axes when I can and I use a low stump a fair bit too. On tough stuff, which I deal with a lot of twisted knotty wood, I use splitting wedges, and sometimes big fat wooden wedges. Estwing makes probably the best overall splitting wedge with the wings that stick out. Twisted wedges are great but sometimes the twist works against you depending on the twist of the wood. I sharpen my wedges also. I haven't yet experimented with axes with a high centerline vs a more even profile. I have yet to get my hands on a decent Maine wedge pattern.
Excellent observations! I’d say we are pretty much on the same though process with everything. Those German mauls are sick. I thought ox head made a heavier one, but maybe not 8 pounds. Fiskars doesn’t even sell the 8 pounder overseas. They sell a 6 pound maul with an entirely different profile. Funny you mention that. In Europe, wood stoves are smaller and wood is generally sold in 12” lengths instead of our 16”+ in USA. I need to get around to reprofiling some of my splitting wedges, as they are too thick and pop out. That estwing does look nice. In theory, a main wedge would be stickier in splitting than a high centerline axe just because of the contact area. However, Maine wedges are usually thicker profile, so they don’t stick much. I also have a 4 pound true temper axe from the 70s or 80s. It’s a Dayton pattern. I’ll probably hang it on a 30 inch handle and use it for splitting. I have no need for a felling axe that heavy lol. Thanks for watching, appreciate the comment!
@@Codi_Clapper I've had some twisted slightly punky slippery elm launch my sharpened Estwing wedge over my head. Surprised me the first time but I did it on purpose for laughs 4 or 5 more times. First strike to set the wedge, and on the second strike to drive it in it would fly out that tough round. 3M Cubitron abrasive discs work fast at profiling and removing mushrooming on wedges while staying relatively cool. They eat metal so fast you have to be super careful but the work goes blazingly fast. The Muller 7259-50 5Kg (11 pound) maul and the 9 pound Halder Simplex Maul are probably 2 of the most interesting mauls I would love to try and compare profiles but they are both pricey and the Muller 7259-50 might be hard to source for me in America unless I can find a Muller dealer that might be able to special order it instead of ordering it directly from Australia. 11 pounds is a lot of weight for repeated splitting but it would be interesting to pit that vs the 12 pounds wedge shaped monster mauls on tough wood vs an 8 pound maul/sledge and wedges. Throwing in the 6.6 pound Stihl/Ox Head and the Fiskars 8 pound maul, Council Tools 8 pound maul, and it would be the ultimate battle of some of the big splitters representing different profiles from around the world that I haven't seen anybody do.
I think the axe or maul you have is probably the best one for you! You don't start in the middle, start close to the edge. I have a large axe head with a 40mm galvanized water pipe as a handle, primitive but effective and I split Australian hardwood. Have had this tool for 30 years never let me What's with the angle when you hit the wood you're doing that on purpose, that's absolutely ridiculous.
Did you watch the video when he explained what he did? Made pretty good sense to me. Anyone who would use a galvanized pipe as an axe handle is absolutely ridiculous
@@jordanbeyer7607 it's worked for 30 years and I split Australian hardwood knots, forks and anything else. Not much it can't split. So don't call me ridiculous because I know what I'm doing and saying. I was probably splitting wood before you were shitting your nappies.
Heck yeah! That is fantastic to hear. I think in most cases a splitting maul is more tiresome, a lot of people disagree until they try a splitting axe for awhile.
Splitting axes are not great. Especially with massive doug fir (30+ inch diameter rounds at 16" to 20" long). I've been splitting since I was a child and found an 8 to 12 lb mauls never disappoints. I just picked up a 7lb granfrok bruk maul to try.
Never split wood in my life, but stumbled in here just to learn. As a home cook, I can offer a theory on the Japanese tool. Japanese knives are designed to maximize sharpness and steel hardness, but they are also smaller, thinner, more brittle, and use a very low angle. The design is rooted in the forging techniques for samurai swords, and it wouldn't surprise me if all Japanese bladesmithing and adjacent forging (like forestry tools) started from that same tradition of smaller, sharper, more precise tools--regardless of how wood was being split. But that's just me speculating.
Hi Matthew! thanks for your insight. I agree that there is a recurring theme of small, precise tools coming from Japan. Since this video I have acquired a few Japanese tools. I have a hatchet, a few nata, and a pruning saw. All of the tools have very hard steel, and like you said, seem to be made smaller for more precise cutting work. I do not have experience with Japanese knives, but I have heard that unique knives are used depending on what type of fish is being prepared. Specialization and precision is clearly valued in Japanese culture. As for the splitting axe in the video, my best guess is that it was used for splitting longer logs down the middle when laying horizontal on the ground. Throughout history, logs weren’t bucked into firewood lengths and wasted as fuel wood. They would have been used for timber framing and house construction. Fuelwood was likely smaller branches that could be cut up by hand, or larger chunks turned into charcoal. So while I can see an axe like that being used for splitting smaller firewood, I think it was designed a specific purpose. Hope you enjoyed, thanks for watching! Best, Codi
Hi Codi, do you have any tips for my situation? We just brought down a tree and its about 6ft tall and as thick as what youre showing. what kind of axe would we use to break it down?
Thanks! They are Minnetonka moccasins. Soft suede leather with a thin foam insole. Not the best for working around rolling logs, but really comfy shoe for someone wanting to strengthen their feet. The leather will harden on the sole and is surprisingly durable. Thanks for watching!
I ave a question about first one, 6lbs splitting maul. Should it be straight? I mean, when You look from above on the top of head, the edge is in the center or should be asymmetric? I heard tat some designed it for purpose. You can feel like maul is going aside.
Very interesting! The 6 pounder that I have might have a slightly asymmetric edge just from the factory, but it is supposed to be symmetrical. I have not seen any mauls with single bevel, nor an intentionally asymmetric bit. I suppose it could help with flicking the wood, but in my experience, a single bevel tool will steer the axe off to the side. Meaning that it would dig into the wood instead of splitting it straight through.
@@Codi_Clapper You said also about this twisting technique. I just wonder if some producers designed it for purpose. The main, and actually only goal for this maul is to split wood. So knowing that fact and useful technique, may be they designed it. It is had to believe me that they sell so curved. I will not complain on sharpness. We can do it by ourselves. But when You have to remove so much material to make it balanced and straight...? It does not make sense. I just wanted to know Your experience and observation. When I use maul, it goes aside atomatically. I think, that directing forces to one side is exactly kind of "twisting". Thanks for response.
Hello! Yes, the flick absolutely works in oak. In fact, I would consider red oak one of the best woods for the technique. As long as your wood has straight grain, and is mostly clear of knots, flicking should work. Good question! Thanks for watching👍
Thanks! Also one thing I thought of while watching your flick... I *think* I remember Buckin' say that he kind of loosens his grip just as the head hits the log (in order to still hold the handle, but this lets it rotate freely in the palm on impact). I am not 100% certain but I think I recall him saying this. I mention it because I notice that it looks like the head of your axe may be wobbling relative to the rest of the handl (see 5m08s and 5m18s). I.e. the handle itself is twisting a bit on impact I think. So there is some twisting / torque stress on the handle I think that might eventually cause it to crack after much flicking (maybe)? I might be wrong though.
I see what you mean, I don’t think that the handle itself is twisting, but certainly could be flexing a bit. When I see the head wobble like that, I know that it was a good flick. Perfect amount of twist, with the right angle of attack. I’ve tried to put too much power into the flick and ended up smacking the side of the axe head, which sends a ton of shock into my hands. That I do think could break a handle, or even crack the eye of a double bit.
Hello I'm looking for an ax for a bug out bag something to chop wood for a fire or shelter if need be I'm not very strong I'm wondering what type of ax do you think would be the best you seem very knowledgeable. thank you for your time.
Good morning! Yes, I have a few suggestions. 😁 Council Tool makes a 22 inch axe called the Flying Fox. It should fit in a backpack. Not too heavy, it’s less than 2 lbs. Very stylish camp axe IMO. I recommend getting the straight handle version, making sure that you buy one with a hardened poll (hammer face). Then you can drive metal stakes and such without damaging the axe. I think the curved handle version is not hardened. If you want something cheap, durable and more suited to splitting wood than cutting it, I would recommend a fiskars x7 hatchet. By far the best value for a little splitting hatchet, and it’s very durable. Only downside is you cannot use the poll as a hammer. Lastly, if you have money to spend and want something more versatile and stylish, I recommend a Japanese Nata sold by Honmamon Japan. They have a $35 nata, single bevel, that is crazy heavy and splits like a beast. It has a nub of steel on the end that protects the edge from rocks if using on the ground. It is much more versatile than the first two option in that it functions well for carving and feathering as well. Unfortunately shipping from Japan might cost $30 to $50 depending on the item weight. Nevertheless, it is my favorite tool for cutting small saw cut rounds and kindling. I demonstrated using it in one of my videos for carving a bowl. You can tell how heavy it is compared to the hatchet I was using. Hope this helps, curious to hear what you decide. Best, Codi
Always used a splitting maul and a 6lb. Sledgehammer once you stick the maul then it becomes the wedge. Once I got a descent paying job I bought a machine.
That’s the way to go. I don’t burn wood, so I’m more or less using axes for the enjoyment. I’ll definitely end up getting a hydraulic splitter once I get the money.
bit stunning to watch splitting in usa . in aust.Most of what i see would give me an arm full for the day and maybe a broken handle.My log today when hit hard would often have the axe bounce back out . Cutting through the middle is usually the worst approach.Todays tree was an old swamp gum with the outer grain raping around in different directions.Its not all like that but SOO different .Maybe work out why your axe jams ?? Thanks any way
Wow, yeah Australian timber has always been notoriously tough. I have seen some of what Kurt S chops and it looks and sounds harder than anything I’ve dealt with. For bigger wood I definitely don’t try to split from the middle of the log, it’s really only longer pieces that are awkward to split. Sometimes if I can’t get a crack on the cross section, I will roll a log on its side and try to follow my line, working around the entire log. Usually it is just better to work from the outside-in. I would definitely like to try some Aussie hardwood someday haha. Anyone who has to deal with that stuff deserves a medal lol. Thanks for the comment, interesting stuff 👍
The flick doesn’t bother my wrists at all, but I have come across a few things that may cause discomfort. 1. The axe is too heavy. Heavy axes require more gripping, which generally leads to wrist injury. I like to use axes between 2.5-4 pounds. So fiskars x27 is an example of an axe too heavy. 2. The handle is too thick/ my grip is too open; similar to the heavy axe, a thick handle is going to make it difficult to hold on for long periods of time. The flick should be done with a handle thin-enough that your bottom hand (the hand at the palm swell) should be able to close, with your middle finger and possibly ring finger touching your palm. If you wrap your fingers around the handle and you cannot touch your palm, the handle is definitely too thick. Unfortunately synthetic axes do not allow modification, but wood handles can easily be corrected. Making the grip smaller makes it easy to loosely hold the axe. 3. Gripping the handle tightly rather than letting it do it’s thing; the grip should be rather loose, and the actual flicking motion is rather subtle. It looks fast on camera, but I am barely twisting my wrists before contact. If it bothers your wrists to flick like this, I recommend holding the axe at roughly a 30 degree angle before striking the wood. Look at how I split wood with the basque axe in the video. If you strike the wood at an angle, you don’t have to engage your wrists at all. Just grip it as you normally would, but not too tightly. 4. Using a full sized double bit, I have noticed that it generates too much of a flick and is quite jarring to the wrists. I only use my cruiser (26-28inch) double bit for flicking. I have used a few full sizes double bits and have though they all hurt my wrists. I think with a smaller axe, the center of balance on the head is much closer to center, putting less torque on the handle. Not to mention a full sized double bit is very difficult to control on a 30”+ handle length. I find it easier to use something with shorter cheeks like my council tool jersey. Hopefully something I said helps haha. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Hi Jim! I picked up on the flick when I first got into axes. I was big into watching and studying the old US Forest Service manuals and videos. One video called “An Axe to Grind” showed a quick demonstration of the flick when going over splitting with a lighter axe. The man in the video called it the twist. At the time I had no idea what was going on. But then at some point I did it by accident by splitting wood at a weird angle trying to protect my axe from hitting the ground. Picked it up pretty quick after that realizing that I just needed to loosen my grip and let the poll drop to one side. I came across Buckin a few years later, which is whom I owe the title “the flick.” Thanks for watching!
My buddy filming thought it would be funny is basically the only reason. It made me taller haha. I didn’t know he kept it in frame when we recorded lol. You aren’t the first person to ask.
I think i disagree with the wood not being on the block. Hours of using a maul on the gound height will kill your back and hips.Having a chopping block to have it a little higher will save your back in long the run. Especially for shorter folk. the power part of your argument is vaild if your using a ax instead of a maul.
I agree, it’s a damn good axe. I gave mine to a buddy and never got it back lol. Honestly not a fan of the handle length though, wish they’d make a 30 inch model. Wasn’t too attached to it myself, something about the hard plastic feel I guess. I like the husky better.
I'm not to sure about your splitting while standing on two different small chunks of wood seems like a very unstable platform to split from. U need to watch some videos of Bucks
All in good fun brother lol. Yeah not an advisable technique by any means. Was just being funny because the block that I was splitting on is too tall. I usually don’t split on a block, but it looked better on camera. Buckin does split like a beast, good recommendation. He does some things I wouldn’t advise a beginner either lol.
Thats disappointing - Not the video but that I have a maul axe and can't chop jack with it like these guys can. I was looking for a vid to show me some super duper slicing axe, seems I'm supposed to have one 😪
I disagree that a splitting maul is "ideal" for beginners, in fact it's the last axe a beginner should buy. A beginner should buy a standard length axe (26-28 inches handle), with a two to two and a half pounds head, get used to the proper SAFE handling of an axe. Also do yourself a favor, wear shoes that can protect your toes when you demonstrate axesmanship. The shoes you're wearing are a poor example of safety to a beginner watching your channel. Aside from that, Iappreciate your narration and the setting.
Hi Paul! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. My argument for a splitting maul as the first axe is because they typically have longer handles, and the extra weight means less force exerted from the user when swinging. Having a 36 inch handle makes it a lot less likely that someone will hit their feet when swinging a full arch (which shouldn’t be done with any axe, but is natural instinct for a beginner). Increased weight means the user can lift straight up and drop the axe down without worrying so much about the speed or power necessary to split wood with a light axe. I think getting frustrated with a light axe is a much more dangerous situation. Lastly, a maul is just a good beater tool that doesn’t need to be overly sharp. This makes it a much safer tool for beginners to handle without worrying about getting cut. I do see your argument in a boys axe as a good option for someone really wanting to learn how to maintain and use an axe for chopping wood, but for most people who just want to split firewood, I think the maul is best. In regard to my choice of footwear, I think with any axe, one should learn to bend at the knees and keep the handle parallel to the ground. There is no chance of hitting your feet if the axe is kept parallel. That is why I feel perfectly comfortable wearing casual shoes when splitting wood. Of course, rolling logs and splinters are a hazard, but that’s a risk I’m willing to take for being comfortable. Thanks for bringing attention to these points, I would have liked to share these thoughts in the video so that beginners have some background. Originally, I made this video for a small group of followers who know about axes already and wanted to have some discussion on splitting tools. I did not anticipate the video to be so popular, or I would have presented things differently to help beginners learn how to use an axe. Best regards, Codi
@@Codi_Clapper Thanks for your very complete reply Codi. """In regard to my choice of footwear, I think with any axe, one should learn to bend at the knees and keep the handle parallel to the ground. There is no chance of hitting your feet if the axe is kept parallel""" This is in my view an explanation that covers the reason why I suggest for a beginner the use of a lighter axe. We are of different minds when it comes to a "first" axe.
@Codi_Clapper nice video sir! People have their different opinions and some state them as if they are facts in the comments section. I keep my knees straight and bend at the waist, as you do, and I have found that it creates more power and is easier on the body. A 36 inch handle is great for a beginner or a seasoned splitter, in my opinion. It's very hard to hit yourself with one. People comment things to me a lot when it comes to splitting and I've got to the point to where I say "send an example please and we will compare". Great video and many great comparisons and techniques 👍
Lol. Gotta keep it interesting.😆 Thanks for the tips, I agree that it isn’t the best example to set for people, but I assure you I am not going to hit my feet. Even with my shortest axe (26 inches) I don’t come close to hitting my feet. Just gotta be edge conscious and bend at the knees when I swing. Thanks for watching!
Wtf wobbling on discs of wood in... Moccasins? Are you trying to split your foot up the middle, or step on a spike of wood? What are you thinking? No eye protection, either. If the stump is too high, dig a hole to seat it in, or cut it, or get a smaller one. C'mon now man.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate your concern. The blocks were just a joke, I should’ve made a note in the video that I wasn’t being serious about that. The moccasins reflect my understanding of safely swinging an axe. As long as I bend at the knees, keeping my axe parallel with the ground, I will never swing into my foot. You are correct that they were not a good choice of footwear for stepping around wood, however, I was willing to take that risk. I will cut the stump lower next time I split a bunch of wood, that was just a rare occasion for me to get some splitting footage, so I wasn’t that worried about getting everything set up how I’d like it. Eye protection is a good idea, I agree. I always wear eyes and ears when I use metal wedges, but sometimes forget to wear glasses when I split. Often not an issue, but I’ve had some grit get into my eyes before. Hopefully you hear where I’m coming from. Thanks.
Young Buck.... your videography is quality.... but your inexperience with wood, axes and axemanship is prevalent... and can't be masked even a with an eloquent script.... The Miners axe.... isn't a felling axe. It's otherwise known as a "Rail Splitter" for making split-rail fencing (like Abe Lincoln did before he was president). Can you fall a tree with it? Yes, but you can fell a tree with a Pulaski... but that doesn't make it a felling axe. The miners axe is an a more utilitarian axe. Driving tent stakes or timber nails, splitting fire wood, pounding wedges or brush work (during falling with a chainsaw but proximity to tree felling doesn't make it a felling axe)
I appreciate the feedback good sir. I can totally see how the miners axe was meant for railsplitting and pounding wedges. However, the head is the same as all of the other council tool jersey axes, minus the phantom bevels. In terms of geometry, it is a felling pattern, though I realize that this model is not optimized for that task. If I wanted to fell with it, I would mount on a longer handle and thin the bit down to 18 degrees. Nevertheless, it serves its purpose for what I use it for. As you said, it is a utilitarian axe. Thanks for watching.👍
My intentions of this video are directed towards helping people get exposed to a variety of splitting tools, and to spark some healthy discussion amongst you all.
A lot of the points in this video are coming from my personal observations and could easily be argued for or against depending on a lot of factors. What works for one person might not be realistic for another. Feel free to add-in or make a point against anything that I said in the video. Cheers!
For those of you who heard him say "Not much is known about Japanese logging" I invite you to put that into your RUclips search bar. Quite a bit is known if you take the time to look.
Thank you for sharing.
@@Codi_Clapper You're welcome! Great video, I'm currently trying to decide what sort of axe I'll be adding to my collection next and this was very insightful.
The mystical art of Japanese logging
Great video. Splitting soft woods has always been my nemesis. Finding the right axe in my arsenal is still something I am experimenting with. Some good tips that I am going to try next time out.
Thank you! I agree, softwoods are so inconsistent. If they were all straight-grained like the cedar that Buckin Billy Ray splits we’d all be having a great time😁😆
Once I got rid of the chopping block, I gained momentum and never had to pick up a round ever again. The Fiskars Isocore maul and X27 really shine then.
100%
Dude, thank you for putting all this info out in timely concise manner, saving whatever silly/ personality stuff for the end
Thanks brother, I appreciate it! Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed😁
Thank you for the video. It was clear and covered all of the key points a person would want to know about buying an axe.
Well made vid! I don't have any experience splitting softwood so your thoughts on that were pretty interesting. Agreed on the japanese/husqvarna sledge axe pattern. Those plastic huskys are awesome. Love the slow mo's! 👍👍
Thanks Kurt! I’m not sure that I would choose gum over pine, but it’s definitely not the easiest splitting wood. All the knots from the limbs make it tricky to figure out. Glad to hear you’re still enjoying the plastic husky😁.
I have mostly lodgepole pine, spruce, fir and cottonwood in my area. I burn 4- 6 cords every winter.
I used to use a maul but as I get older, it is getting hard on my shoulders, elbows, wrists and hands to use that heavy maul.
I found a "Collins Axe" that has been doing a phenomenal job for me. Considerably less force required to accomplish the same job.
I still have to use the maul on some harder splitting pieces. But overall, my arms feel way better using the Collins axe.
To aid in splitting stroke, I screwed together 2 layers of 4X4s that are perpendicular to each other. Then I put on 1 more layer of perpendicular 2X4s. The 2X4 layer is the layer that I split on. It is easy and cheap to replace those pieces. I also installed a suitcase handle on the side.
That gives me roughly 18 more inches of stroke and power on each swing. The splitting block moves easily and protects my edge from hitting dirt.
Great video, when folks ask what’s the best maul or axe, I tell them it depends on what your splitting. Just a suggestion, best splitting block I use is a half sheet of 3/4 plywood. I get full swing and when I glance my bit is protected from the dirt and rocks. Drill a hole in a corner and tie a leash to the plywood and you can easily drag the “block” to the pile, not bring the rounds to the block. Also, in the stringy dense stuff, keep you bit felling sharp, it really reduces the amount of swings it takes.
Awesome suggestion! Yeah I’ve never heard of that one before. I like the idea of a handle to pull it around. Will have to try it one day. Thanks!
ruclips.net/video/DhLaTUddhMo/видео.html
i have grinders for sharpening any of the few split mauls i own . any real tough stuff i will find a way to bust them open . i think it helps to chop stuff right on the ground although you dont want super soft ground .
@@tjlee9901
100% correct. The looser, or the more your chopping surface vibrates, the more energy is being taken from your swing.
Put wood in tire then split
Excellent video Codi! Very clear narrative with examples to help people select the best tool for the particular job/wood.
Thanks Brett! Glad you liked it😁
I came across the Garant SUPER SPLITTER SPLITTING MAUL about 30 years ago and have never looked back. Go online and check it out. I don’t believe any other design of axe can touch it and I now see that other companies (fisker for one) have copied it. Due to its design it has far less metal touching the wood to cause friction and stall the cut combined with more force pushing sideways to split the wood apart. That along with good technique and a proper height splitting block makes splitting wood a joy to do. Far more efficient than the ones shown in the video. I have a wood/electric forced air furnace for my 2 story house and use about 17 face-cord a winter here in Canada.
Nice to see the mauls. I’ve got a mini one with a shortened handle . 👍
Great video man! Useful information and I especially liked the acoustic music at the end!
awesome VIDEO ... with
crossed grain pieces I
resort to the splitting wedge ...
👍 ..
Amen! I can't stand picking up logs and trying to balance them on a stump. I split everything on the ground with a golf club like swing. Just keep your feet in front of the wood your splitting. Great video.
Thanks man!! What axe do you like with the golf club swing? I have trouble doing it with heavier axes. A whippy 2.5 lb boys axes seems to work best for me.
I've used a bunch over the years from 4 to 8lbs but settled on the fiskers 6 1/2 lbs splitting axe. I get about 25 or 30 cords out of them before the heads brake of and them get another one. Lifetime warranty I'm on number 5 or 6 now. If I feel nostalgic I grab the old Rockwell patterned plumb felling axe but mostly used that for rough hewing.
@@jasonbowers4388 Wow, you're probably the first person to break that many of them haha. That's a ton of wood! Good to know they are serious about the warranty. That is one thing that the husqvarna axes don't have.
Good point about the double and flick.
I have the wetterlings splitting mail #146 works great can be a little heavy for me anyway if I knew what I know now I’d get the same style head but a one or 2 pounds lighter.
That’s a sweet axe! Yeah I think there is a general movement towards lighter splitting tools now that more people are using axes, and a lot of buckin Billy Ray influence. I find a 4 pound axe to be pretty much unbeatable for splitting straight-grained wood like maple, ash, oak, and beech. I let my friends use splitting mauls lol.
Interesting video. I love my English Gilpin axe (1898) but am also partial to the Fiskars x27 and Isocore maul for the durability of their handles. I hate having to replace wood handles; it's a pain " in the place where the sun never shines". That Basque axe looks awesome.
I bet that is a really beautiful axe! I agree, why bust up wood handles when the synthetic ones take so much abuse. I love how functional the fiskars axes are, but I think all axe people can agree, they have no soul lol. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
@@Codi_Clapper : fiberglass handles do not compare with a good wood handle except for durability .
Sweet. Enjoyed the video. Splitting maple is so hard, really sticky wood
Thank you I was torn between 2.25lb council tool boys axe and 5lb splitting axe. After watching this I think I will go with boys axe
I've split a lot of wood, and have never found a better maul than the old rounded-convex-head one my dad had. They don't make 'em like that anymore. Too many are concave now which is stupid, they just get stuck in the wood. We have a lot of fir and pine up here in WA state and they are soft and fibrous as you said.
Nice video. I own several Jauregui Basque axes and they are very efficient in different jobs, from 750grs to 3kgs splitting are like the yours. You are a proudly owner of an axe from the last blacksmith that forge them. Greetings from Spain.
Thank you very much! They are very beautiful axes. Nice of you to comment. Cheers!
Thanks for the explanation!
Excellent video codi !! Glad to see you back behind end axe !! I really enjoyed this man, jam packed full of information!! I learned a lot from this, great job man keep up the great work !!
Thanks Joey! Despite what all my friends think, I don’t get to go chop very often. Was a lot of fun😁. Really glad that you enjoyed and found it useful. Always enjoy watching your stuff too!
Good info in this video! Nice breakdown of different species and tools best suited to process them. I find myself gravitating towards the composite handles more and more for splitting simply because of the durability of the handle. Nothing hurts more than seeing a handle you just spend hours making with a big chunk taken out because you overstruck once. And I’m the king breaking handles that way! Haha.
@The vintage axe hoarder sorry but I'm the king of breaking handles while splitting!
Thanks Mat! I totally agree, I used to hate everything that those plasticky handles stood for, but after busting up some really nice handles I started leaning in their favor. The husqvarna axe was purchased less than 24 hours after breaking my favorite maul handle lol. Sometimes a beater axe is just what you need.
@Chimmy 42 😆
Most damage to handles happen when you strike the round on the side the further from you. When a round is wider than your axeblade strike on the side axebladewidth in from the side. Then turn the wood around and strike on the other side. Only hit further in if the wood is cracked open allready.
I use the Husqvarna 2800, it does get stuck from time to time, but I just whack it with my Roughneck maul and job done!
Always split rounds and aim for the edges closest to you. If you sink it in the middle of the round it will ruin your handle. Also dont split through knots. Split to the aide and between them. Use this knowledge and save alot energy.
Good advice!
@@Codi_Clapper you also totally ignored using the inversion technique. this is where old felling axes come into their own, as does the huskavarna, just get the axe to bite, dont be fussy, just get it to bite. use the axe as a picker so you dont move . then bring the axe that is now inbedded in the block, raise as normal, then whilst at the top, of your swing, invert it, and bring it pole down first onto the chopping block. nothing survives. it either splits, or the block flies off but mostly it splits, so you never have to deal with a stuck axe. once learned, and its not difficult you will never use the flick again
Someone been watching ole Buckin Billy Ray, Using the flick!!. Thats what he named and is a master at splitting wood with a regular ax vs a splitting maul
Yes sir! Lol. Flick is a game changer. I first picked up on it by accident when I was younger. I was trying to see if I could aim my wood into a pile and split it at the same time. So by striking the wood and angling my axe during the strike, I had found the flick. It wasn’t until a couple years after that I watched an axe to grind documentary. Then I saw that it was a real technique and put two and two together. Buckin has definitely made it popular amongst people today. He has a ton of experience in splitting firewood. Glad to see someone using axes instead of smashing splitting mauls into the dirt lol.
Thanks for watching!
Hey Codi! Really good video with some high quality tips. Rare to be found. I've been am using two composite mauls and a composite axe from fiskars for the last few years. That worked pretty well and i would say in hardwoods it can't get any better. No chopping block and a long handle is my favourite to get speed and power. Now i am looking for a new axe because softwoods with knots is always a problem and i've discovered that its more the axe geometry than my technique. Those old style tasmanian axes or maybe a double bit with a pretty sharp edge should do the job much better, but axe industry doesn't have anything for me yet. Sharp, heavy head, long handle, convex geometry. If you know who builds this, tell me. Otherwise i will look for a old head to restaurate and put a long handle on it. Greetings Gerrit
Thanks Codi for sharing！🤩
You’re welcome 😁
Great stuff bud thanks for taking the time to make this well done video.
Thank you sir! Glad you enjoyed it😁
Split away young man !!! but I like my log splitter at my age . I have a awesome axe collection and It looks like you do also . I’ll swing a axe to chop some kindling is about it . Cool video bubba .
Thank you sir! Splitting wood is good fun when you don’t have to do it haha. I will definitely be getting a hydraulic splitter one of these day. Axes is more or less a hobby for me. Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed watching your vid.
In the realm of body mechanics, I see you over extending.
As for the swing-speed, "economy of motion". I would place a round in the back of the chopping block (depending on diameter of chopping block for "missed strike(s)"... 1st safety.
It is best to keep feet in an "A-Frame" posture" (2nd safety), no short cuts since ax can ricochet/ bounce.
Nice to see you seem to be in a safe place. Im wooded areas. I do not advocate having all that wood around your feet. In the event of an animal changing you might trip and/ or twist your ankle, just a thought.
I realized that the higher the log, the harder it is to chop. And the easiest way is to chop a log that is on the ground. Good job.
Thanks brother! Appreciate you watching👍
Really fantastic video, ahmen to pretty much everything said
Thank you, Ben! I appreciate the feedback👍
The info on axes are great, but I really want to know what your hats is. That thing is awesome!
Thank you!! Glad you liked the video and my hat haha. This particular hat is a wool felt Outback style hat. It is sold online on Bailey’s Hats. The line of hats is called Wind River, with this model being called the Switchback. I picked it up years ago when my family made a trip out to the Dakotas. Got it at a western shop, but liked that it wasn’t too cowboy looking. It works great as a cool season hat, and is waterproof, so it is a big help in the rain too.
With the Fiskars XXL Maul that you used you destroy Pine. Dont know about Red Mapple but whats the problem with pine? I one shot every pine log with that axe
Good info mate! Thanks
I run the Fiskars 8lb maul and haven't had any problems in pine or other soft woods. I keep it sharp and reprofiled the transition from edge to cheek to be smooth. I do not like the profile of most of the traditional American splitting mauls. I've tried the typical 5.5 pound Swedish style spitting maul with the long cheeks and also find them to be not very useful for basic splitting due to the long cheeks causing enough friction and binding and slowing the axe head speed down too much before getting to the thicker part of the head which the American patterns also tend to face though to a lesser extent. The German pattern splitting mauls I feel punch above their weight and are the best profile but I wish I could find one weighing 8 pounds instead of the common 6.6 pounds. I have the 3.5 pound Jersey pattern Council Tool and after using it and other axes of similar profile with those hollow cheeks, I now run a 4lb True Temper from the 80s as my main general purpose axe with more of a straight wedge pattern though not quite like the Maine wedge pattern. Despite not penetrating as deep when felling it sticks way less and is more efficient overall and that wedge shape definitely makes it a far better splitter and the extra weight helps. I also tend to split on the ground and I flick both mauls and axes when I can and I use a low stump a fair bit too. On tough stuff, which I deal with a lot of twisted knotty wood, I use splitting wedges, and sometimes big fat wooden wedges. Estwing makes probably the best overall splitting wedge with the wings that stick out. Twisted wedges are great but sometimes the twist works against you depending on the twist of the wood. I sharpen my wedges also. I haven't yet experimented with axes with a high centerline vs a more even profile. I have yet to get my hands on a decent Maine wedge pattern.
Excellent observations! I’d say we are pretty much on the same though process with everything. Those German mauls are sick. I thought ox head made a heavier one, but maybe not 8 pounds. Fiskars doesn’t even sell the 8 pounder overseas. They sell a 6 pound maul with an entirely different profile. Funny you mention that. In Europe, wood stoves are smaller and wood is generally sold in 12” lengths instead of our 16”+ in USA.
I need to get around to reprofiling some of my splitting wedges, as they are too thick and pop out. That estwing does look nice.
In theory, a main wedge would be stickier in splitting than a high centerline axe just because of the contact area. However, Maine wedges are usually thicker profile, so they don’t stick much. I also have a 4 pound true temper axe from the 70s or 80s. It’s a Dayton pattern. I’ll probably hang it on a 30 inch handle and use it for splitting. I have no need for a felling axe that heavy lol.
Thanks for watching, appreciate the comment!
@@Codi_Clapper I've had some twisted slightly punky slippery elm launch my sharpened Estwing wedge over my head. Surprised me the first time but I did it on purpose for laughs 4 or 5 more times. First strike to set the wedge, and on the second strike to drive it in it would fly out that tough round. 3M Cubitron abrasive discs work fast at profiling and removing mushrooming on wedges while staying relatively cool. They eat metal so fast you have to be super careful but the work goes blazingly fast.
The Muller 7259-50 5Kg (11 pound) maul and the 9 pound Halder Simplex Maul are probably 2 of the most interesting mauls I would love to try and compare profiles but they are both pricey and the Muller 7259-50 might be hard to source for me in America unless I can find a Muller dealer that might be able to special order it instead of ordering it directly from Australia. 11 pounds is a lot of weight for repeated splitting but it would be interesting to pit that vs the 12 pounds wedge shaped monster mauls on tough wood vs an 8 pound maul/sledge and wedges. Throwing in the 6.6 pound Stihl/Ox Head and the Fiskars 8 pound maul, Council Tools 8 pound maul, and it would be the ultimate battle of some of the big splitters representing different profiles from around the world that I haven't seen anybody do.
This axeually is a good video I learned a lot thanks
i see what you did there
Great video. The narration was well done.
Thanks!
Very well put together. 👏 I think you should start a separate channel featuring your musical abilities 😉
Thanks! I will try to incorporate more into my vids. I think this channel can feature many of my interests if I do it right.
I think the axe or maul you have is probably the best one for you! You don't start in the middle, start close to the edge. I have a large axe head with a 40mm galvanized water pipe as a handle, primitive but effective and I split Australian hardwood. Have had this tool for 30 years never let me What's with the angle when you hit the wood you're doing that on purpose, that's absolutely ridiculous.
Did you watch the video when he explained what he did? Made pretty good sense to me.
Anyone who would use a galvanized pipe as an axe handle is absolutely ridiculous
@@jordanbeyer7607 it's worked for 30 years and I split Australian hardwood knots, forks and anything else. Not much it can't split. So don't call me ridiculous because I know what I'm doing and saying. I was probably splitting wood before you were shitting your nappies.
Outro clip was great 🤣
Thank you for your insight brother
Awesome video, I like the variety of axes and wood types you showed off. The ending made me laugh really hard
Lol. Should have just started with that part. It’s all they needed to see😆
Wow, great video. Thank you.
You’re welcome!!😁
Great video and great information
I started splitting mostly Harwood for close to seventy years and my favorite are is still the spitting axe !!
Heck yeah! That is fantastic to hear. I think in most cases a splitting maul is more tiresome, a lot of people disagree until they try a splitting axe for awhile.
Splitting axes are not great. Especially with massive doug fir (30+ inch diameter rounds at 16" to 20" long). I've been splitting since I was a child and found an 8 to 12 lb mauls never disappoints. I just picked up a 7lb granfrok bruk maul to try.
Never split wood in my life, but stumbled in here just to learn.
As a home cook, I can offer a theory on the Japanese tool. Japanese knives are designed to maximize sharpness and steel hardness, but they are also smaller, thinner, more brittle, and use a very low angle. The design is rooted in the forging techniques for samurai swords, and it wouldn't surprise me if all Japanese bladesmithing and adjacent forging (like forestry tools) started from that same tradition of smaller, sharper, more precise tools--regardless of how wood was being split.
But that's just me speculating.
Hi Matthew! thanks for your insight. I agree that there is a recurring theme of small, precise tools coming from Japan. Since this video I have acquired a few Japanese tools. I have a hatchet, a few nata, and a pruning saw. All of the tools have very hard steel, and like you said, seem to be made smaller for more precise cutting work. I do not have experience with Japanese knives, but I have heard that unique knives are used depending on what type of fish is being prepared. Specialization and precision is clearly valued in Japanese culture.
As for the splitting axe in the video, my best guess is that it was used for splitting longer logs down the middle when laying horizontal on the ground. Throughout history, logs weren’t bucked into firewood lengths and wasted as fuel wood. They would have been used for timber framing and house construction. Fuelwood was likely smaller branches that could be cut up by hand, or larger chunks turned into charcoal. So while I can see an axe like that being used for splitting smaller firewood, I think it was designed a specific purpose.
Hope you enjoyed, thanks for watching!
Best,
Codi
@@Codi_Clapper Thanks for the info!
Which tool is better for splitting; the keyboard or the recorder?
Hi Codi, do you have any tips for my situation? We just brought down a tree and its about 6ft tall and as thick as what youre showing. what kind of axe would we use to break it down?
I enjoyed this video. Great information!
Glad to hear that Mr. Killinger! Thank you :)
trying to guess by the landscape, wondering what part of the US you’re in.
Nice Greetings from Germany Peter
Great video. What is the brand of shoes you’re wearing?
Thanks! They are Minnetonka moccasins. Soft suede leather with a thin foam insole. Not the best for working around rolling logs, but really comfy shoe for someone wanting to strengthen their feet. The leather will harden on the sole and is surprisingly durable.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this!
You’re welcome! 😁 thanks for watching
I use an old maul that is fairly dull that I use on dry hard pine. My son says I should sharpen it.
Anyone have an opinion about that?
I ave a question about first one, 6lbs splitting maul. Should it be straight? I mean, when You look from above on the top of head, the edge is in the center or should be asymmetric?
I heard tat some designed it for purpose. You can feel like maul is going aside.
Very interesting! The 6 pounder that I have might have a slightly asymmetric edge just from the factory, but it is supposed to be symmetrical. I have not seen any mauls with single bevel, nor an intentionally asymmetric bit. I suppose it could help with flicking the wood, but in my experience, a single bevel tool will steer the axe off to the side. Meaning that it would dig into the wood instead of splitting it straight through.
@@Codi_Clapper You said also about this twisting technique. I just wonder if some producers designed it for purpose. The main, and actually only goal for this maul is to split wood. So knowing that fact and useful technique, may be they designed it.
It is had to believe me that they sell so curved. I will not complain on sharpness. We can do it by ourselves. But when You have to remove so much material to make it balanced and straight...? It does not make sense.
I just wanted to know Your experience and observation.
When I use maul, it goes aside atomatically. I think, that directing forces to one side is exactly kind of "twisting".
Thanks for response.
I also learned about the "flick" from Buckin'. Do you think it can work in oak?
Hello! Yes, the flick absolutely works in oak. In fact, I would consider red oak one of the best woods for the technique. As long as your wood has straight grain, and is mostly clear of knots, flicking should work.
Good question! Thanks for watching👍
Thanks! Also one thing I thought of while watching your flick... I *think* I remember Buckin' say that he kind of loosens his grip just as the head hits the log (in order to still hold the handle, but this lets it rotate freely in the palm on impact). I am not 100% certain but I think I recall him saying this. I mention it because I notice that it looks like the head of your axe may be wobbling relative to the rest of the handl (see 5m08s and 5m18s). I.e. the handle itself is twisting a bit on impact I think. So there is some twisting / torque stress on the handle I think that might eventually cause it to crack after much flicking (maybe)? I might be wrong though.
I see what you mean, I don’t think that the handle itself is twisting, but certainly could be flexing a bit. When I see the head wobble like that, I know that it was a good flick. Perfect amount of twist, with the right angle of attack. I’ve tried to put too much power into the flick and ended up smacking the side of the axe head, which sends a ton of shock into my hands. That I do think could break a handle, or even crack the eye of a double bit.
Hello I'm looking for an ax for a bug out bag something to chop wood for a fire or shelter if need be I'm not very strong I'm wondering what type of ax do you think would be the best you seem very knowledgeable. thank you for your time.
Good morning! Yes, I have a few suggestions. 😁
Council Tool makes a 22 inch axe called the Flying Fox. It should fit in a backpack. Not too heavy, it’s less than 2 lbs. Very stylish camp axe IMO. I recommend getting the straight handle version, making sure that you buy one with a hardened poll (hammer face). Then you can drive metal stakes and such without damaging the axe. I think the curved handle version is not hardened.
If you want something cheap, durable and more suited to splitting wood than cutting it, I would recommend a fiskars x7 hatchet. By far the best value for a little splitting hatchet, and it’s very durable. Only downside is you cannot use the poll as a hammer.
Lastly, if you have money to spend and want something more versatile and stylish, I recommend a Japanese Nata sold by Honmamon Japan. They have a $35 nata, single bevel, that is crazy heavy and splits like a beast. It has a nub of steel on the end that protects the edge from rocks if using on the ground. It is much more versatile than the first two option in that it functions well for carving and feathering as well. Unfortunately shipping from Japan might cost $30 to $50 depending on the item weight. Nevertheless, it is my favorite tool for cutting small saw cut rounds and kindling. I demonstrated using it in one of my videos for carving a bowl. You can tell how heavy it is compared to the hatchet I was using.
Hope this helps, curious to hear what you decide.
Best, Codi
Always used a splitting maul and a 6lb. Sledgehammer once you stick the maul then it becomes the wedge. Once I got a descent paying job I bought a machine.
That’s the way to go. I don’t burn wood, so I’m more or less using axes for the enjoyment. I’ll definitely end up getting a hydraulic splitter once I get the money.
😎 Greetings from Germany Peter
Hello! Thanks for watching😁
Fire ass underrated video
Also where do you live and why do you and your friends just split wood randomly? Lol
Awesome content🎉
I love your moccasins whered you get em
Thanks! They are from a company called Minnetonka Moccasins. Maybe $50? Well worth it imo.
bit stunning to watch splitting in usa . in aust.Most of what i see would give me an arm full for the day and maybe a broken handle.My log today when hit hard would often have the axe bounce back out . Cutting through the middle is usually the worst approach.Todays tree was an old swamp gum with the outer grain raping around in different directions.Its not all like that but SOO different .Maybe work out why your axe jams ?? Thanks any way
Wow, yeah Australian timber has always been notoriously tough. I have seen some of what Kurt S chops and it looks and sounds harder than anything I’ve dealt with. For bigger wood I definitely don’t try to split from the middle of the log, it’s really only longer pieces that are awkward to split. Sometimes if I can’t get a crack on the cross section, I will roll a log on its side and try to follow my line, working around the entire log. Usually it is just better to work from the outside-in.
I would definitely like to try some Aussie hardwood someday haha. Anyone who has to deal with that stuff deserves a medal lol. Thanks for the comment, interesting stuff 👍
How is the flick technique affecting your wrists? I'm really hurting after a days work of cutting firewood. Maybe I'm doing it wrong?
The flick doesn’t bother my wrists at all, but I have come across a few things that may cause discomfort.
1. The axe is too heavy. Heavy axes require more gripping, which generally leads to wrist injury. I like to use axes between 2.5-4 pounds. So fiskars x27 is an example of an axe too heavy.
2. The handle is too thick/ my grip is too open; similar to the heavy axe, a thick handle is going to make it difficult to hold on for long periods of time. The flick should be done with a handle thin-enough that your bottom hand (the hand at the palm swell) should be able to close, with your middle finger and possibly ring finger touching your palm. If you wrap your fingers around the handle and you cannot touch your palm, the handle is definitely too thick. Unfortunately synthetic axes do not allow modification, but wood handles can easily be corrected. Making the grip smaller makes it easy to loosely hold the axe.
3. Gripping the handle tightly rather than letting it do it’s thing; the grip should be rather loose, and the actual flicking motion is rather subtle. It looks fast on camera, but I am barely twisting my wrists before contact. If it bothers your wrists to flick like this, I recommend holding the axe at roughly a 30 degree angle before striking the wood. Look at how I split wood with the basque axe in the video. If you strike the wood at an angle, you don’t have to engage your wrists at all. Just grip it as you normally would, but not too tightly.
4. Using a full sized double bit, I have noticed that it generates too much of a flick and is quite jarring to the wrists. I only use my cruiser (26-28inch) double bit for flicking. I have used a few full sizes double bits and have though they all hurt my wrists. I think with a smaller axe, the center of balance on the head is much closer to center, putting less torque on the handle. Not to mention a full sized double bit is very difficult to control on a 30”+ handle length. I find it easier to use something with shorter cheeks like my council tool jersey.
Hopefully something I said helps haha. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Great video👍
Thank you!
I don't know this for sure, but I would bet that you learned that "Flick" trick from "Buckin Billy Ray Smith"?
Hi Jim! I picked up on the flick when I first got into axes. I was big into watching and studying the old US Forest Service manuals and videos. One video called “An Axe to Grind” showed a quick demonstration of the flick when going over splitting with a lighter axe. The man in the video called it the twist. At the time I had no idea what was going on. But then at some point I did it by accident by splitting wood at a weird angle trying to protect my axe from hitting the ground. Picked it up pretty quick after that realizing that I just needed to loosen my grip and let the poll drop to one side. I came across Buckin a few years later, which is whom I owe the title “the flick.” Thanks for watching!
What's with standing on the short portions of a wood?
My buddy filming thought it would be funny is basically the only reason. It made me taller haha. I didn’t know he kept it in frame when we recorded lol. You aren’t the first person to ask.
Thank you 🙏🏽
Glad you liked it👍👍
great job.
Thanks!
The outro...😂😂😂 lmao
Thanks
Kenapa di Indonesia ga ada,kapak yg keren seperti ini
very skilled
Thank you!
Fiskars ,Stubai ,Bahco ....
The maul is always the answer when splitting wood. Thats what they are made for😅. Unless you're splitting pecker wood pine, use a maul.
I think i disagree with the wood not being on the block. Hours of using a maul on the gound height will kill your back and hips.Having a chopping block to have it a little higher will save your back in long the run.
Especially for shorter folk.
the power part of your argument is vaild if your using a ax instead of a maul.
Regular saw cut wood. Maul all day
You missed the best splitting axe that’s ever been made, x27 fiskars
I agree, it’s a damn good axe. I gave mine to a buddy and never got it back lol. Honestly not a fan of the handle length though, wish they’d make a 30 inch model. Wasn’t too attached to it myself, something about the hard plastic feel I guess. I like the husky better.
I do not care that it might not preform as well. I will use the doube bitted axe.
Respect! Love me a double bit.
Don't fight the maul, don't swing it more than once. If it doesn't split finish with a mini sledge. If it doesn't stick in, sharpen it.
Fiskars X27 is the best!
No. It's fine for the price though.
Place an old tire over the round and you won’t have to stand up the piece after each stroke
Good suggestion, definitely helpful with the flick.
Husqvarna not Huskuhvarna.
That is how we ’Muricans pronounce it though 😆
@@Codi_Clapper No, that is how you mispronounced it.
@@masterful7574 Oh… lol. I’ll work on it then👍
husqy ?
I'm not to sure about your splitting while standing on two different small chunks of wood seems like a very unstable platform to split from. U need to watch some videos of Bucks
All in good fun brother lol. Yeah not an advisable technique by any means. Was just being funny because the block that I was splitting on is too tall. I usually don’t split on a block, but it looked better on camera. Buckin does split like a beast, good recommendation. He does some things I wouldn’t advise a beginner either lol.
Thats disappointing - Not the video but that I have a maul axe and can't chop jack with it like these guys can. I was looking for a vid to show me some super duper slicing axe, seems I'm supposed to have one 😪
So that's why I got my ass handed to me from pine wood, I was using a splitting maul
Yeah imagine was like living in a pine Forest
I disagree that a splitting maul is "ideal" for beginners, in fact it's the last axe a beginner should buy. A beginner should buy a standard length axe (26-28 inches handle), with a two to two and a half pounds head, get used to the proper SAFE handling of an axe. Also do yourself a favor, wear shoes that can protect your toes when you demonstrate axesmanship. The shoes you're wearing are a poor example of safety to a beginner watching your channel. Aside from that, Iappreciate your narration and the setting.
Hi Paul! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. My argument for a splitting maul as the first axe is because they typically have longer handles, and the extra weight means less force exerted from the user when swinging. Having a 36 inch handle makes it a lot less likely that someone will hit their feet when swinging a full arch (which shouldn’t be done with any axe, but is natural instinct for a beginner). Increased weight means the user can lift straight up and drop the axe down without worrying so much about the speed or power necessary to split wood with a light axe. I think getting frustrated with a light axe is a much more dangerous situation. Lastly, a maul is just a good beater tool that doesn’t need to be overly sharp. This makes it a much safer tool for beginners to handle without worrying about getting cut. I do see your argument in a boys axe as a good option for someone really wanting to learn how to maintain and use an axe for chopping wood, but for most people who just want to split firewood, I think the maul is best.
In regard to my choice of footwear, I think with any axe, one should learn to bend at the knees and keep the handle parallel to the ground. There is no chance of hitting your feet if the axe is kept parallel. That is why I feel perfectly comfortable wearing casual shoes when splitting wood. Of course, rolling logs and splinters are a hazard, but that’s a risk I’m willing to take for being comfortable.
Thanks for bringing attention to these points, I would have liked to share these thoughts in the video so that beginners have some background. Originally, I made this video for a small group of followers who know about axes already and wanted to have some discussion on splitting tools. I did not anticipate the video to be so popular, or I would have presented things differently to help beginners learn how to use an axe.
Best regards,
Codi
@@Codi_Clapper Thanks for your very complete reply Codi.
"""In regard to my choice of footwear, I think with any axe, one should learn to bend at the knees and keep the handle parallel to the ground. There is no chance of hitting your feet if the axe is kept parallel"""
This is in my view an explanation that covers the reason why I suggest for a beginner the use of a lighter axe. We are of different minds when it comes to a "first" axe.
@Codi_Clapper nice video sir! People have their different opinions and some state them as if they are facts in the comments section. I keep my knees straight and bend at the waist, as you do, and I have found that it creates more power and is easier on the body. A 36 inch handle is great for a beginner or a seasoned splitter, in my opinion. It's very hard to hit yourself with one. People comment things to me a lot when it comes to splitting and I've got to the point to where I say "send an example please and we will compare". Great video and many great comparisons and techniques 👍
First!
You must have the reflexes of a caffeinated ninja! 28 seconds, very impressive sir😂
@@Codi_Clapper I set my caffeinated beverage down to click on your video 😂😂
Two words:
Tassie Pattern.
Yup 🪓👌
Oh my God I didn't notice the moccasins not good my friend I would suggest some boots and standing on the ground. Lol wtf
Lol. Gotta keep it interesting.😆 Thanks for the tips, I agree that it isn’t the best example to set for people, but I assure you I am not going to hit my feet. Even with my shortest axe (26 inches) I don’t come close to hitting my feet. Just gotta be edge conscious and bend at the knees when I swing. Thanks for watching!
👍👍👍👍👍✌✌✌
Wtf wobbling on discs of wood in... Moccasins? Are you trying to split your foot up the middle, or step on a spike of wood? What are you thinking? No eye protection, either.
If the stump is too high, dig a hole to seat it in, or cut it, or get a smaller one. C'mon now man.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate your concern. The blocks were just a joke, I should’ve made a note in the video that I wasn’t being serious about that.
The moccasins reflect my understanding of safely swinging an axe. As long as I bend at the knees, keeping my axe parallel with the ground, I will never swing into my foot. You are correct that they were not a good choice of footwear for stepping around wood, however, I was willing to take that risk.
I will cut the stump lower next time I split a bunch of wood, that was just a rare occasion for me to get some splitting footage, so I wasn’t that worried about getting everything set up how I’d like it.
Eye protection is a good idea, I agree. I always wear eyes and ears when I use metal wedges, but sometimes forget to wear glasses when I split. Often not an issue, but I’ve had some grit get into my eyes before.
Hopefully you hear where I’m coming from. Thanks.
Young Buck.... your videography is quality.... but your inexperience with wood, axes and axemanship is prevalent... and can't be masked even a with an eloquent script....
The Miners axe.... isn't a felling axe. It's otherwise known as a "Rail Splitter" for making split-rail fencing (like Abe Lincoln did before he was president). Can you fall a tree with it? Yes, but you can fell a tree with a Pulaski... but that doesn't make it a felling axe. The miners axe is an a more utilitarian axe. Driving tent stakes or timber nails, splitting fire wood, pounding wedges or brush work (during falling with a chainsaw but proximity to tree felling doesn't make it a felling axe)
I appreciate the feedback good sir. I can totally see how the miners axe was meant for railsplitting and pounding wedges. However, the head is the same as all of the other council tool jersey axes, minus the phantom bevels. In terms of geometry, it is a felling pattern, though I realize that this model is not optimized for that task. If I wanted to fell with it, I would mount on a longer handle and thin the bit down to 18 degrees. Nevertheless, it serves its purpose for what I use it for. As you said, it is a utilitarian axe. Thanks for watching.👍
ขอบคุณคับสำหรับเทคนิคดีๆ
Thanks 😊🙏
Great stuff, RIGHT UP MY ALLEY! SUBBED! Greetings from the PNW 🇺🇸 🪓🌲🪓🌲🪓🌲🪓🌲
Awesome! Thank you!