Same here. Just bought a house and I live where trees are all.around my property. Just installed a wood stove. It just made sense. But need an axe. Great video and the sience behind his explination made sense.
Each has its' own advantage. The maul can be used to hammer in wedges with the sledge end. The maul can be sharpened and will split big pieces. The axe is better for making smaller pieces through tough wood. One is a heavy splitter, one is a finer splitter.
I never had the joys of getting to split a lot of straight grain. My father would cut good wood though (oak, hickery, walnut, cherry and every once in a blue moon hedge) but some of the pieces he got where to big to handle into his log splitter so my brother and I got really good at using the splitting maul. I still use it to this day and enjoy every minute of it because it brings memories back of the days doing this at mom and dads. We still cut for wood together but not as much anymore because he got away from the wood burning stove. Great job and keep up the great work.
Had a fiskars camp ax original before they made other models, absolutely loved it. The handle ended up breaking where it attached to the head after much abuse, contacted them and mailed the ax to them they sent a brand new one. Amazing company, amazing products
I love my Fiskars splitting axe. It is what travels with me now on camping trips and trips to adventure land. Also does the majority of my fireplace wood.
Been on this earth for 32 years…. Today was the first time I’ve ever used a splitting Maul… went out yes and bought a cheap one…. growing up we only ever owned axes and wow what a difference with an 8lb Maul trying to split big logs, specially wet ones you just drop from a tree. Some say you use more energy with a maul but infact I find it energy saving, due to less swings to break the logs, you don’t feel the wood when hitting it, you hit a bad spot with a axe and it lets you know it.
He's not using a traditional ax. It's called a splitting axe and is kinda an in between of an ax and a maul. But leaning towards the maul side. I've had one for a few years and always used a maul before and the splitting ax is my go to for sure. If you need to drive a wedge I still use the maul but 90 percent of the time the splitting ax does the job
This can all be explained with a simple equation: Kinetic energy = 1/2*m*v^2 If you double the mass, you double the energy. But if you double the veloity, your energy increases 4-fold!
I’m an 18 year old in charge of my own firewood business, bc my family had three giant oak (?) trees chopped down from our property. I’ve chopped thru all the stuff I can lift, but the rest of it is stacked on top of each other thanks to the genius tree fellers that came by. It’s next to impossible to move them, but I could get a shove or two before they get embedded in the dirt. I have a log splitter, but the issue is like, moving it… What would you suggest?
I swing a titanium hammer and use a 3 1/2lb plumb on a california handle and hands down prefer them to my dad's maul and 32oz framer. He taught me a valuable lesson when I was young "if it has a handle made of wood, it will put a hurtin on you after the day is over" I believe it and still frame and do concrete and firewood constantly. And I did finally get a hydraulic splitter last year at age 30 thank God. Dad still gets out at sixty years old and splits about 2 chords a year, says it keeps him young
L.O.L. I had to re-read to catch it was Dad that still swings a 32oz. framer. The estwing ? I learned in the 90's about the folly of the 32oz. wrist destroyer and didn't think anyone used them anymore.
X27 Fiskars over a traditional splitting maul all day long for exactly the reasons you mentioned. I also have the shorter handled X25 which gives you more control at the expense of leverage and speed but may work better for shorter people. I was perfectly happy with the Fiskars until I tried a friend’s Gransfors Bruks Splitting Maul and immediately bought one. It combines the best traits of the splitting axe and Maul into one purpose built tool. At 7.2lbs it’s just 1.5lbs more than the X27 so still has the speed and less tiring than a traditional maul. The wedge is slight wider than the X27 but slimmer than a traditional maul. The blade is narrow and convex like the X27 so doesn’t stick as much. The shorter handle puts the overall length at 31” which is in between the 28” X25 and 36” X27. Plus you can drive a steel wedge with the Gransfors Bruks. All that said the Fiskars splitting axes are an excellent choice especially considering the modest price. I don’t regret buying them and would never go back to big ol heavy maul. It’s just the GFB splitting maul is just a little bit better, and it’s traditional pretty lol.
I have split wood for over 30yrs started out like my dad taught me using a sledgehammer and wedges then I bought a trouper 6lb splitting maul which I used for yrs then I was introduced to a Fiskars x27 with the 36" handle and now it's the only splitting maul/axe I use besides my 35ton hydraulic splitter. I bought them for around $54/each but one day a local Walmart was putting their inventory clearance I bought 7 of them for $15/ea. SCORE !!!!!
Question does wood have to be seasoned to split, I have the fishers x27 and trying to split wood that has already been split but still very big, for some reason the axe ether bounces and barely makes a dent??? Thanks
you can swing those 36" handle fiskars so damn fast it sounds like theyre breaking the sound barrier when they hit the wood. i'll take speed over weight any day
I’m pounding on some old maple just cut and it’s pretty twisted with my maul I’ve used for many years but I will try to get me one of them splitting axes and give it a go . Nice video .
Dead on. A friend that used to split semi loads of wood professionally said Force=Mass by Acceleration. So go with lighter weight and swing faster is way more force.
Great demonstration, I think you really did a good job explaining the differences. I do not have experience swinging a hammer or axe all day, to be honest not sure why this video was recommended to me, a middle aged, office worker who has done little to no manual labor since his 20's but it still makes sense. The lighter tool uses energy more efficiently then the heavier one. Where conventional wisdom may have always been that the better tool was the heavier one, the newer approach understand the heavier tool does have a higher cost over time so measures are made to minimize the energy cost(as long as its used correctly) while being as effective as the heavier tool.
Recognized that Fiskars head right away, been my favorite for 5 years now! Indestructible!!! Gotta say deerskin gloves take the shock out a touch, imo. You say "observe" like Stimpy did, lol! Respect.
A splitting axe is great for straight grain wood but for most of the wood I split a splitting axe just bounces off. I use a maul and a steel wedge for the first split and then either continue with the maul alone or switch to the splitting axe. If I had to rely just on a splitting axe I would have a very cold winter.
The second law of the Isaac Newton says "If you double the speed, the impact will be 4 times bigger". This is exactely what you are expérienced and explaining. Bravo!
Always wondered about this. Today my old maul finally cracked. Looks like I’ll be replacing it with a splitting axe. Sure looked easier than what I’m used to. Thanks.
I got sick of it and now use a tractor with a 20 ton on the back. Only complaint is it will split logs that are to big for me to move. It turns a few hour job into an all day "wonder if it can split THIS sum bitch!" Lol
Great Vid! It's all about which tool best does the job. And, that varies widely depending on the type and condition of the wood. I've got Fiskars' X27, Fiskars 8lb Maul, Fiskars 10lb Sledge, Fiskars 4lb Club Hammer, and several Estwing Sure Split E5 Wedges. Most often, if the X27 does it, that's what I'll use. However, when the X27 or the 8lb Maul simply bounce off a round, I've always been able to use 2 or 3 wedges and the 10lb Sledge to get the job done! Whatever it takes, it's always a great overall body workout!!
I have the x27 and a 8lb maul. When I’m on a tough log the maul just bounces off, I bought a husky wedge but could never get it to stick into the log. What am I doing wrong?
@@jimmiemacd3603Some wood types and fresh stuff can be very tough. If the wedge isn't embedding at all, make sure it has a sharp edge. Sometimes several soft to medium strikes with a 4lb club hammer (I have the Fiskar's IsoCore 14" version which works great) will get the wedge sufficiently embedding in the wood. If that doesn't work, a conical shaped wedge will get things started. These look like an slightly twisted ice cream cone. Once embedded if there's any slight cracks forming to either side of the wedge, that's where you use subsequent wedges to further exploit the crack. Leave some space between the wedges so they do not touch. This is why I have 3 of Estwing Sure Split E5 Wedges. I almost never need to use the conical shaped ones any more. Hope this helps. In extremely tough cases chainsaw an inch deep slot across the face of the round. Use the slot to give the wedges a head start. 😀
I'm a framer as well but I've been splitting wood since I was 5 years old 40 years and probably 2 thousands face split and I'm 5'9" 165 pounds and tried every way you can think and splitting maul can't be beat by anything else ash I don't even stand up golf swing all the way Plus instead of putting that piece of wood on top of another piece of wood you get a much better swing with a heavy maul basically by raising it you have taken the helping hand called inertia and gravity not to mention very unsafe splitting wood that high of the ground I used the same principle at the age of 14 ringing the bell 3 times back to back and actually getting a cigar just because the guy said see all you strong guys just got shown up by a 115 pound boy had the target been higher of the ground I definitely couldn't have hit the bell plus axes get stuck way to much and don't come out so easy fighting to get them out uses alot more energy you won't hurt the maul by driving it into the ground either better to have a blunt end works better
I have both. Definitely rely on the splitting axe more. The maul is good for that first crack in a large round. Also a dual use tool, since it has the sledge side, and can be used as a wedge. Get both. Leave the maul at home, take the Axe to the camp site.
Haven't split wood since teenage years but when I did use a maul not only did it bounce off a lot, even when sharp, but you also had the shock through the handle and had to control the maul after the bounce. It went wherever it wanted so you had to use extra energy to control the rebound. Axes take less energy to keep under control. If we got a real gnarly log we busted out the splitting wedges and sledges.
that's cause you were mauling seasoned ironwood in the middle of a giant round, I'm dead sure. Mauls work perfectly fine, when you rub 2 braincells together
I use a splitting axe for the easy stuff and a splitting maul for the hard stuff. Yes a splitting mall is heavier but you do not have to swing it anywhere near as many times or nearly as hard. The fiskars 8 lb splitting maul and the fiskars splitting axe make a perfect combination and of course that full lifetime warranty on them doesn't hurt either.
I have the fishers x27 and just can’t split easily. Does the wood have to be seasoned? Also the wood I’m trying to split is already split but they are very big still so trying to split them a bit smaller to burn better. Thanks
I use my fiskers isocore 8 lb splitting maul,to halve the big rounds,and then finish them with either my fiskers x27 super splitting axe or my fiskers x25 splitting axe, all are great tools for splitting firewood 🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
Ultimately it makes common sense. I'm sold. Great job on a basic lesson in the (Now logical) physics.. I think the same applies to the splitting of kindling. I'm thinking the x7 may be in the cards too. Stay warm'all.
Grew up using a regular axe. I have some extra large rounds that need to be split and the regular axe isn't gonna cut it, literally. So, I went in looking for a new axe and wedge plus a sledge hammer. I spent about an hour at HD trying to decide which axe to buy and ended up buying a splitting axe, a maul, and a wedge. Probably should have did my research first, but I think I have everything I need now to tackle the wood pile I have out back.
I know this is an older video, but I just found a Collins axe head from the 70's or 80's and a Klein & Logan Splitting Maul head (8lbs). I was able to find a handle for the Collins so restored the head and installed the handle, it splits smaller rounds pretty easily. I'm now trying to decide whether to look for a handle for the Klein and Logan Splitting Maul head, although the maul head is vintage it was rusting away in an old coffee can so I think I will still get a handle even if I don't use it. But the idea of a lighter splitter is appealing. So is there much of a difference between a 5lb splitting axe and a 5lbs splitting maul? Seems like they would perform equally.
If you put the wood on the ground instead of on another log you can add at least another foot of motion to your swing. If you are worried about going straight through the wood and hitting rocks or dirt learn to flick split the wood. You maximize your potential by doing both. If you use a flick split with a maul you can blow apart twisty grain stuff you may have thought only a splitter could do. Nice video showing you can use a lighter tool and get the same result. Oh and if you use a wood handle 6lb maul I will tell you that the hickory will shock your hands less than any plastic ever will. Also splitting around the edge will be easier to split. The hardest way to split wood is through the middle. If you’re doing a lot of splitting, going around the edge is the quickest if you’re results based. Faster for two reasons. One is that piece of wood on the edge has nothing pressing back on it inward. The other reason is usually a piece won’t have to pick the split piece back up after some is split off. At times.
I just bought one of each. Husky 34" 8 pound splitting maul and a 36" fiskars splitting axe. Going to go break up some firewood tomorrow at a neighbor's house. I'll report back on what I like better. Based on this video, I'm guessing I'm going to like the axe better, but who knows. Also, depends on if you want more of a work out I guess. I also bought an estwing wedge and a 10 pound husky sledge. I'm wondering if that will come in handy for more tricky logs or not. We'll see.
I like the splitting axe. I have that same fiskars. I prefer a wood handle for my axes i feel like it absorbs the shock better. I also enjoy carving them so i get why people are switch to the composites less things to worry about but a good wood handle as long as you arent totally missing and slamming it into the log holds up.
I was taught with an an axe. Start chunking off pieces from edges on larger pieces. Sled & wedge for the really bad stuff. Like to try splitting axe. Experience probably somewhere in the equation
I just bought a Fiskars 36" , I've used a 6lb American style Collins splitting maul for about 30 (at least) years. Saw some really good reviews on the Fiskars. I'm kind of an old fart now, and the whole idea of swinging something lighter makes a lot of sense to me. I understand that it's easier, that once you halve a large round, you can really peel it a lot quicker and easier with the Fiskars. Can't wait to try it in a couple of days.
@@RhythmMethodBand HUGE!! The Fiskars is an absolute beast. Very light, very fast. I don't feel beat to hell at the end of the day. I find that I can almost set the maul aside in about 98% cases. (in these cases, I wedge, and sledge) The lifetime guarantee is nice to know too if it ever breaks you get a new one free, but this sucker is like indestructible. Wish I knew about these years ago.
Stu your comparison really seemed to be as fair as possible! Hey... I recently ran across an online ad for a storm shelter from "Safe Shed" from Salem, IL. Have you heard of them? Any thoughts/recommendations on their products?
Something i learned when i started reloading bullets which would also apply to axes. Double the wieght but same speed gives double the energy but same wieght with double the speed increases the energy 4x
All depends on the wood. Elm, beech and the grain. Twisted grained wood, yes. Straight grained wood. Not necessary. Also where you're going to burn it. Kitchen stove, small stove, big stove, fireplace. Want all nighters. Split big. Quick heat, small. Cut and split the last of the elms in my town. Dutch elm disease. 3+ feet at the butt. Beautiful trees. A shame. 40 plus years ago. But definitely slab on a twisted grain. Buried a many wedges for my ignorance in the laws of physics and nature.
Tuna, sardines, dog food or cat food are great. I tend to use fishy baits by creeks/ponds were they're eating fish. But if there isn't any water I use dog food.
Mass times velocity squared. MxV2 (I know the 2 is not raised, but it's velocity to the second power. Meaning velocity multiplied by itself). When this Baby Boomer was in paramedic school learning about injury patterns and the effects of trauma, the text books and the instructors all emphasized the concept that with kinetic energy, whether it's in a hammer or a splitting ax, a speeding automobile or a bullet, it is the velocity of the thing that has the greater effect on how much energy, or umph, or whatever you want to call it, is transferred to whatever object receives said instrument. It is the velocity that stores, and transfers, the greater amount of kinetic energy (stored energy) let's say. It is the velocity that give us the most bang for our buck. Not so much the weight (or mass) of the thing that's moving. The kinematics of trauma and mechanisms of injury. It's bloody good reading...
I have 3 splitting axes or mauls if you want to call them that i have a 4 lb a 6lb and a 8 lb and I have tried them all and my preferred one is a 6lb maul and all of my handles are wooden I think it comes do to what you feel more comfortable with and for me it's a 6 pounder
It depends. Picking the maul back up is exhausting as well. I also do framing carpentry work & have found that swinging a lighter hammer hard is much less fatiguing, and damaging to my elbow. Lighter hammers most often win jobsite "nail-offs".
I prefer the splitting axe over the maul too! I use the Husqvarna 2800, and find it very good! I generally only use my maul on the odd occasion if my axe gets stuck, hitting the axe like a wedge!
The physics is that velocity matters more than mass in the energy equation. E=M x V² Since V is squared, a change in velocity makes a bigger affect than a similar magnitude change in mass. Same principle applies to firearms. Using the same cartridge, a loading with a lighter projectile moving faster usually has more energy...at least until you add in long range in which case the lighter round will slow down quicker, but that doesnt apply to splitting really.
I appreciate you explanation of the types of splitting options. Based on what you have shared with us, I am set on the brand of axe: Fiskers splitting axe. But I am a beginner to this, so I need your opinion on the right handle length to choose from 36” vs 31 inches? Any thoughts? Thanks
Great vid being a smaller male 150lbs I always thought & used a maul to give me more downward force being that it was heavier but realized you get fatigued easier. The lighter axe gives me more momentum on my swing and get same results and less fatigued in hands do to lighter weight.
Mass times speed (acceleration) equals force. Hitting something with more force is the goal. Ex. Golf club head speed, volleyball spike, aluminum base ball bats ( 5,6 oz under length). As said less fatigue. Nice job.
Energy is mass x velocity ² however mass is a major part but it's only counted once. Where the speed is square so it's M x V x V. Now if you want to really feel out put mass into grains... 7000 gr per pound then run your math. Divide by 480240 = fp
I added a pound of steel to the back of the head of the fiskars and worked out a way of adding 4 inches to the length of the haft and it worked much better. You can't actually swing the stock fiskars that much faster than a heavier maul. The start of the swing is faster but at time of impact there is not much difference. The shape of the head is important. The maul with a concave cheek won't work as well as the wedge of the fiskars just as the wedge won't work as well as a tool with a convex cheek design. Of course with red oak and ash a basic chopping ax works as well as the best designed maul!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve been searching axe videos all week, came across this one and I love how you explained it. It makes perfect sense.
Same here. Just bought a house and I live where trees are all.around my property. Just installed a wood stove. It just made sense. But need an axe. Great video and the sience behind his explination made sense.
Split that wood so good it split the audio right in half too 😂
🤣😂
Each has its' own advantage. The maul can be used to hammer in wedges with the sledge end. The maul can be sharpened and will split big pieces. The axe is better for making smaller pieces through tough wood. One is a heavy splitter, one is a finer splitter.
Great experiment. Was about to buy a splitting maul. Guess I'll be buying a splitting axe now. Didn't really know they existed. Thanks buddy.
How did the splitting axe work out for you? Did you regret not buying the maul?
Why not buy both and find out which works best for different tasks?
I just bought an X27, and I love it. I’m not an expert by any stretch, but the Fiskars make me feel like one lol!
I never had the joys of getting to split a lot of straight grain. My father would cut good wood though (oak, hickery, walnut, cherry and every once in a blue moon hedge) but some of the pieces he got where to big to handle into his log splitter so my brother and I got really good at using the splitting maul. I still use it to this day and enjoy every minute of it because it brings memories back of the days doing this at mom and dads. We still cut for wood together but not as much anymore because he got away from the wood burning stove. Great job and keep up the great work.
Had a fiskars camp ax original before they made other models, absolutely loved it. The handle ended up breaking where it attached to the head after much abuse, contacted them and mailed the ax to them they sent a brand new one. Amazing company, amazing products
Was about to buy a maul. So happy I saw this first. Very well done video
Cool, thanks for the informative video. It certainly helped me as a newcomer to wood splitting.
I haven’t split wood since a kid this year I’m splitting for the trapping garage! Boy piss elm whooped my butt lol
I love my Fiskars splitting axe. It is what travels with me now on camping trips and trips to adventure land. Also does the majority of my fireplace wood.
Picked up the splitting axe yesterday and put it to use. Split some big red oak rounds with ease!
Been on this earth for 32 years…. Today was the first time I’ve ever used a splitting Maul… went out yes and bought a cheap one…. growing up we only ever owned axes and wow what a difference with an 8lb Maul trying to split big logs, specially wet ones you just drop from a tree. Some say you use more energy with a maul but infact I find it energy saving, due to less swings to break the logs, you don’t feel the wood when hitting it, you hit a bad spot with a axe and it lets you know it.
He's not using a traditional ax. It's called a splitting axe and is kinda an in between of an ax and a maul. But leaning towards the maul side. I've had one for a few years and always used a maul before and the splitting ax is my go to for sure. If you need to drive a wedge I still use the maul but 90 percent of the time the splitting ax does the job
Very nice comparison!!! Thank you for insight and honesty on the subject!!!
This can all be explained with a simple equation:
Kinetic energy = 1/2*m*v^2
If you double the mass, you double the energy.
But if you double the veloity, your energy increases 4-fold!
I’m an 18 year old in charge of my own firewood business, bc my family had three giant oak (?) trees chopped down from our property. I’ve chopped thru all the stuff I can lift, but the rest of it is stacked on top of each other thanks to the genius tree fellers that came by. It’s next to impossible to move them, but I could get a shove or two before they get embedded in the dirt.
I have a log splitter, but the issue is like, moving it…
What would you suggest?
I swing a titanium hammer and use a 3 1/2lb plumb on a california handle and hands down prefer them to my dad's maul and 32oz framer. He taught me a valuable lesson when I was young "if it has a handle made of wood, it will put a hurtin on you after the day is over" I believe it and still frame and do concrete and firewood constantly. And I did finally get a hydraulic splitter last year at age 30 thank God. Dad still gets out at sixty years old and splits about 2 chords a year, says it keeps him young
L.O.L. I had to re-read to catch it was Dad that still swings a 32oz. framer. The estwing ? I learned in the 90's about the folly of the 32oz. wrist destroyer and didn't think anyone used them anymore.
Your dad's lesson was wrong. Wood handles feel great.
X27 Fiskars over a traditional splitting maul all day long for exactly the reasons you mentioned. I also have the shorter handled X25 which gives you more control at the expense of leverage and speed but may work better for shorter people. I was perfectly happy with the Fiskars until I tried a friend’s Gransfors Bruks Splitting Maul and immediately bought one. It combines the best traits of the splitting axe and Maul into one purpose built tool. At 7.2lbs it’s just 1.5lbs more than the X27 so still has the speed and less tiring than a traditional maul. The wedge is slight wider than the X27 but slimmer than a traditional maul. The blade is narrow and convex like the X27 so doesn’t stick as much. The shorter handle puts the overall length at 31” which is in between the 28” X25 and 36” X27. Plus you can drive a steel wedge with the Gransfors Bruks. All that said the Fiskars splitting axes are an excellent choice especially considering the modest price. I don’t regret buying them and would never go back to big ol heavy maul. It’s just the GFB splitting maul is just a little bit better, and it’s traditional pretty lol.
I have split wood for over 30yrs started out like my dad taught me using a sledgehammer and wedges then I bought a trouper 6lb splitting maul which I used for yrs then I was introduced to a Fiskars x27 with the 36" handle and now it's the only splitting maul/axe I use besides my 35ton hydraulic splitter. I bought them for around $54/each but one day a local Walmart was putting their inventory clearance I bought 7 of them for $15/ea. SCORE !!!!!
Why buy 7?
Question does wood have to be seasoned to split, I have the fishers x27 and trying to split wood that has already been split but still very big, for some reason the axe ether bounces and barely makes a dent??? Thanks
@@kevinpeyton33what kind of wood is it? That has alot to do with it. Red oak splits easily wet but hickory is horrible to split when wet.
I've got the exact same 36" Fiskers and love it. I'll take it any day over a maul. I also have the Fiskers hatchet for kindling.
you can swing those 36" handle fiskars so damn fast it sounds like theyre breaking the sound barrier when they hit the wood. i'll take speed over weight any day
I’m pounding on some old maple just cut and it’s pretty twisted with my maul I’ve used for many years but I will try to get me one of them splitting axes and give it a go . Nice video .
You gotta remember how sharp the fiskars axe is when dangling it around your shins with one hand while resetting pieces, trust me bro
Dead on. A friend that used to split semi loads of wood professionally said Force=Mass by Acceleration. So go with lighter weight and swing faster is way more force.
Great demonstration, I think you really did a good job explaining the differences. I do not have experience swinging a hammer or axe all day, to be honest not sure why this video was recommended to me, a middle aged, office worker who has done little to no manual labor since his 20's but it still makes sense. The lighter tool uses energy more efficiently then the heavier one. Where conventional wisdom may have always been that the better tool was the heavier one, the newer approach understand the heavier tool does have a higher cost over time so measures are made to minimize the energy cost(as long as its used correctly) while being as effective as the heavier tool.
Recognized that Fiskars head right away, been my favorite for 5 years now! Indestructible!!! Gotta say deerskin gloves take the shock out a touch, imo. You say "observe" like Stimpy did, lol! Respect.
I’ve never used the splitting axe but I have used the maul for years and anything lighter would be my choice.
A splitting axe is great for straight grain wood but for most of the wood I split a splitting axe just bounces off. I use a maul and a steel wedge for the first split and then either continue with the maul alone or switch to the splitting axe. If I had to rely just on a splitting axe I would have a very cold winter.
Bingo.
The second law of the Isaac Newton says "If you double the speed, the impact will be 4 times bigger". This is exactely what you are expérienced and explaining. Bravo!
Holy sheet I’m “ one of y’all “. Glad I could help with content haha.
Personally, if I split as much wood as you need each year, I would prefer a 20 ton hydraulic vertical splitter !😊
Always wondered about this. Today my old maul finally cracked. Looks like I’ll be replacing it with a splitting axe. Sure looked easier than what I’m used to. Thanks.
Never used a splitting ax only maul picked out a 8lb ata a yard sale rehandled it and love it
I got sick of it and now use a tractor with a 20 ton on the back. Only complaint is it will split logs that are to big for me to move. It turns a few hour job into an all day "wonder if it can split THIS sum bitch!" Lol
Great Vid! It's all about which tool best does the job. And, that varies widely depending on the type and condition of the wood. I've got Fiskars' X27, Fiskars 8lb Maul, Fiskars 10lb Sledge, Fiskars 4lb Club Hammer, and several Estwing Sure Split E5 Wedges. Most often, if the X27 does it, that's what I'll use. However, when the X27 or the 8lb Maul simply bounce off a round, I've always been able to use 2 or 3 wedges and the 10lb Sledge to get the job done! Whatever it takes, it's always a great overall body workout!!
I have the x27 and a 8lb maul. When I’m on a tough log the maul just bounces off, I bought a husky wedge but could never get it to stick into the log. What am I doing wrong?
@@jimmiemacd3603Some wood types and fresh stuff can be very tough. If the wedge isn't embedding at all, make sure it has a sharp edge. Sometimes several soft to medium strikes with a 4lb club hammer (I have the Fiskar's IsoCore 14" version which works great) will get the wedge sufficiently embedding in the wood. If that doesn't work, a conical shaped wedge will get things started. These look like an slightly twisted ice cream cone. Once embedded if there's any slight cracks forming to either side of the wedge, that's where you use subsequent wedges to further exploit the crack. Leave some space between the wedges so they do not touch. This is why I have 3 of Estwing Sure Split E5 Wedges. I almost never need to use the conical shaped ones any more. Hope this helps. In extremely tough cases chainsaw an inch deep slot across the face of the round. Use the slot to give the wedges a head start. 😀
@@musiclaw1486 no there we’ll seasoned but there some big oak rounds. Thanks for the advice
I bought that Fiskars axe 7 years ago and it's still going strong. Love it.
I'm a framer as well but I've been splitting wood since I was 5 years old 40 years and probably 2 thousands face split and I'm 5'9" 165 pounds and tried every way you can think and splitting maul can't be beat by anything else ash I don't even stand up golf swing all the way Plus instead of putting that piece of wood on top of another piece of wood you get a much better swing with a heavy maul basically by raising it you have taken the helping hand called inertia and gravity not to mention very unsafe splitting wood that high of the ground I used the same principle at the age of 14 ringing the bell 3 times back to back and actually getting a cigar just because the guy said see all you strong guys just got shown up by a 115 pound boy had the target been higher of the ground I definitely couldn't have hit the bell plus axes get stuck way to much and don't come out so easy fighting to get them out uses alot more energy you won't hurt the maul by driving it into the ground either better to have a blunt end works better
Any planned videos for the garage addition, I would love to see see the update since the concrete pouring videos
I have both. Definitely rely on the splitting axe more. The maul is good for that first crack in a large round. Also a dual use tool, since it has the sledge side, and can be used as a wedge. Get both. Leave the maul at home, take the Axe to the camp site.
Great video man, I have a maul but also an electric splitter for when it gets hard (and an inverter so I can run it off the lawn tractor's battery)
This was very usefull. Just restored an old gilpin 1905 splitting maul and was wondering what the difference was between axe and maul.
Great demo.
You made your point.
You should add these products in your description with an affiliate link. Great info!
The concept is to work smarter not harder. 👍👍👍.
Haven't split wood since teenage years but when I did use a maul not only did it bounce off a lot, even when sharp, but you also had the shock through the handle and had to control the maul after the bounce. It went wherever it wanted so you had to use extra energy to control the rebound. Axes take less energy to keep under control. If we got a real gnarly log we busted out the splitting wedges and sledges.
this could have been because of a poor edge or edge alignment maybe? But i agree axes are better
You should have sharpened the edge instead of using it blunt....
that's cause you were mauling seasoned ironwood in the middle of a giant round, I'm dead sure.
Mauls work perfectly fine, when you rub 2 braincells together
I use a splitting axe for the easy stuff and a splitting maul for the hard stuff. Yes a splitting mall is heavier but you do not have to swing it anywhere near as many times or nearly as hard. The fiskars 8 lb splitting maul and the fiskars splitting axe make a perfect combination and of course that full lifetime warranty on them doesn't hurt either.
I have the fishers x27 and just can’t split easily. Does the wood have to be seasoned? Also the wood I’m trying to split is already split but they are very big still so trying to split them a bit smaller to burn better. Thanks
Definitely taught me something... I appreciate it man. I got some splitt'n to do!
I use my fiskers isocore 8 lb splitting maul,to halve the big rounds,and then finish them with either my fiskers x27 super splitting axe or my fiskers x25 splitting axe, all are great tools for splitting firewood 🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
Ultimately it makes common sense. I'm sold.
Great job on a basic lesson in the (Now logical) physics..
I think the same applies to the splitting of kindling. I'm thinking
the x7 may be in the cards too.
Stay warm'all.
Grew up using a regular axe. I have some extra large rounds that need to be split and the regular axe isn't gonna cut it, literally. So, I went in looking for a new axe and wedge plus a sledge hammer. I spent about an hour at HD trying to decide which axe to buy and ended up buying a splitting axe, a maul, and a wedge. Probably should have did my research first, but I think I have everything I need now to tackle the wood pile I have out back.
I know this is an older video, but I just found a Collins axe head from the 70's or 80's and a Klein & Logan Splitting Maul head (8lbs). I was able to find a handle for the Collins so restored the head and installed the handle, it splits smaller rounds pretty easily. I'm now trying to decide whether to look for a handle for the Klein and Logan Splitting Maul head, although the maul head is vintage it was rusting away in an old coffee can so I think I will still get a handle even if I don't use it. But the idea of a lighter splitter is appealing. So is there much of a difference between a 5lb splitting axe and a 5lbs splitting maul? Seems like they would perform equally.
I worked on the railroad also setting spikes. . Be nice to see video on that. Has alot to add to wood splitting made easier.
Great video Stu 👍! My philosophy is: leave the piss elm in the woods 😂 hahaha
Like your style, with the splitting axe, your swing is giving you more energy and speed in the swing,🇮🇪🇮🇪
Do you heat your house with wood?if so, I'd like to see your heating system your have and how you have it set up.. thanks
I just bought the fiskar x27, great bit of kit👍
Awesome. Ordered on your recommendation
Is a maul sharp like a splitting axe? I'm new. But I assume the edge isn't as sharp
I have a maul. But don't know what an edge should look like.
If you put the wood on the ground instead of on another log you can add at least another foot of motion to your swing. If you are worried about going straight through the wood and hitting rocks or dirt learn to flick split the wood. You maximize your potential by doing both. If you use a flick split with a maul you can blow apart twisty grain stuff you may have thought only a splitter could do. Nice video showing you can use a lighter tool and get the same result. Oh and if you use a wood handle 6lb maul I will tell you that the hickory will shock your hands less than any plastic ever will.
Also splitting around the edge will be easier to split. The hardest way to split wood is through the middle. If you’re doing a lot of splitting, going around the edge is the quickest if you’re results based. Faster for two reasons. One is that piece of wood on the edge has nothing pressing back on it inward. The other reason is usually a piece won’t have to pick the split piece back up after some is split off. At times.
splitting on the ground is bad on the back, (In my experience). you have to bend over just that much more, and pick the axe up higher
I 100% agree with you on everything you said. Is that a Martinez hammer?
I just bought one of each. Husky 34" 8 pound splitting maul and a 36" fiskars splitting axe. Going to go break up some firewood tomorrow at a neighbor's house. I'll report back on what I like better. Based on this video, I'm guessing I'm going to like the axe better, but who knows. Also, depends on if you want more of a work out I guess. I also bought an estwing wedge and a 10 pound husky sledge. I'm wondering if that will come in handy for more tricky logs or not. We'll see.
Report?
Did you like the axe better?
This has got me wanting to know what brand hammer that is now.
Got my Fiskars splitting axe a while back. My maul has sat in the garage totally unloved ever since :)
the best video in this axe vs mauls
I like the splitting axe. I have that same fiskars. I prefer a wood handle for my axes i feel like it absorbs the shock better. I also enjoy carving them so i get why people are switch to the composites less things to worry about but a good wood handle as long as you arent totally missing and slamming it into the log holds up.
Love the Stiletto 15oz ti-bone
I agree with you.
I was taught with an an axe. Start chunking off pieces from edges on larger pieces. Sled & wedge for the really bad stuff. Like to try splitting axe. Experience probably somewhere in the equation
I just bought a Fiskars 36" , I've used a 6lb American style Collins splitting maul for about 30 (at least) years. Saw some really good reviews on the Fiskars. I'm kind of an old fart now, and the whole idea of swinging something lighter makes a lot of sense to me. I understand that it's easier, that once you halve a large round, you can really peel it a lot quicker and easier with the Fiskars. Can't wait to try it in a couple of days.
How’d it go? Big difference with the Fiskars?
@@RhythmMethodBand HUGE!! The Fiskars is an absolute beast. Very light, very fast. I don't feel beat to hell at the end of the day. I find that I can almost set the maul aside in about 98% cases. (in these cases, I wedge, and sledge) The lifetime guarantee is nice to know too if it ever breaks you get a new one free, but this sucker is like indestructible. Wish I knew about these years ago.
@@mickmcloughlin1646 I’m worried about the fiskers composite handle breaking in an over strike. I’ve done this with similar models
Looks like a splitting maul to me, but I'm sure this dude knows what he's talking about.
Stu your comparison really seemed to be as fair as possible!
Hey... I recently ran across an online ad for a storm shelter from "Safe Shed" from Salem, IL. Have you heard of them? Any thoughts/recommendations on their products?
Something i learned when i started reloading bullets which would also apply to axes. Double the wieght but same speed gives double the energy but same wieght with double the speed increases the energy 4x
I was taught bymy grandfather to split the corners off... not to try to split the center... wondering if you ever heard of that.
All depends on the wood. Elm, beech and the grain.
Twisted grained wood, yes.
Straight grained wood. Not necessary.
Also where you're going to burn it.
Kitchen stove, small stove, big stove, fireplace.
Want all nighters. Split big.
Quick heat, small.
Cut and split the last of the elms in my town.
Dutch elm disease. 3+ feet at the butt.
Beautiful trees. A shame.
40 plus years ago.
But definitely slab on a twisted grain.
Buried a many wedges for my ignorance in the laws of physics and nature.
I have some raccoons around my house, what do you use for bait? I hear dog food works great, is that true?
Tuna, sardines, dog food or cat food are great. I tend to use fishy baits by creeks/ponds were they're eating fish. But if there isn't any water I use dog food.
Mass times velocity squared. MxV2 (I know the 2 is not raised, but it's velocity to the second power. Meaning velocity multiplied by itself). When this Baby Boomer was in paramedic school learning about injury patterns and the effects of trauma, the text books and the instructors all emphasized the concept that with kinetic energy, whether it's in a hammer or a splitting ax, a speeding automobile or a bullet, it is the velocity of the thing that has the greater effect on how much energy, or umph, or whatever you want to call it, is transferred to whatever object receives said instrument. It is the velocity that stores, and transfers, the greater amount of kinetic energy (stored energy) let's say. It is the velocity that give us the most bang for our buck. Not so much the weight (or mass) of the thing that's moving. The kinematics of trauma and mechanisms of injury. It's bloody good reading...
I have 3 splitting axes or mauls if you want to call them that i have a 4 lb a 6lb and a 8 lb and I have tried them all and my preferred one is a 6lb maul and all of my handles are wooden I think it comes do to what you feel more comfortable with and for me it's a 6 pounder
Can you do another Opossum skinning video, like you did years ago?
What if the maul is a lighter maul? There is a variety of sizes and weights LOL
Nice Job good work.
Having to slam down the lighter axe head uses more energy than letting gravity do half the work when using a heavier maul
It depends. Picking the maul back up is exhausting as well. I also do framing carpentry work & have found that swinging a lighter hammer hard is much less fatiguing, and damaging to my elbow. Lighter hammers most often win jobsite "nail-offs".
I prefer the splitting axe over the maul too! I use the Husqvarna 2800, and find it very good! I generally only use my maul on the odd occasion if my axe gets stuck, hitting the axe like a wedge!
The physics is that velocity matters more than mass in the energy equation.
E=M x V²
Since V is squared, a change in velocity makes a bigger affect than a similar magnitude change in mass.
Same principle applies to firearms. Using the same cartridge, a loading with a lighter projectile moving faster usually has more energy...at least until you add in long range in which case the lighter round will slow down quicker, but that doesnt apply to splitting really.
I'm not great with physics but I'm pretty good at ordering a dump truck load of wood... 😂👍
im wondering how much edge geometry is a factor. how would the splitting axe blade geometry work with 8 pounds behind it?
I appreciate you explanation of the types of splitting options. Based on what you have shared with us, I am set on the brand of axe: Fiskers splitting axe. But I am a beginner to this, so I need your opinion on the right handle length to choose from 36” vs 31 inches? Any thoughts? Thanks
depends on how tall you are, but longer also means further away from your foot and more leverage, just saying.
that said fiskars is some real trash.
Might need to pick me up one of those axes
Work smarter not harder! Good Video.
Thanks buddy, this clears it right up! haha
Watching a fella chopping wood is oddly relaxing
Yep !! You are right about that !!😆
You gotta do a video on that smoker in the background
Great vid being a smaller male 150lbs I always thought & used a maul to give me more downward force being that it was heavier but realized you get fatigued easier. The lighter axe gives me more momentum on my swing and get same results and less fatigued in hands do to lighter weight.
Thanks for a great video
Gonna start splitting my own firewood rather than buying it and I just bought one of these.. glad I made the right choice lol..
A maul is what I always used, along with wedges. The splitting ax would've been very welcomed. And by the way, I'm a generation X....I think.
@Reel-Lentless my wood splitting days are behind me now. Did a lot of it growing up though. I actually miss it.
Mass times speed (acceleration) equals force. Hitting something with more force is the goal. Ex. Golf club head speed, volleyball spike, aluminum base ball bats ( 5,6 oz under length). As said less fatigue. Nice job.
Energy is mass x velocity ² however mass is a major part but it's only counted once. Where the speed is square so it's M x V x V. Now if you want to really feel out put mass into grains... 7000 gr per pound then run your math. Divide by 480240 = fp
Divide by 450240....... same math is used for calculating FPE in bullets.
Thanks, awesome video!
I added a pound of steel to the back of the head of the fiskars and worked out a way of adding 4 inches to the length of the haft and it worked much better. You can't actually swing the stock fiskars that much faster than a heavier maul. The start of the swing is faster but at time of impact there is not much difference. The shape of the head is important. The maul with a concave cheek won't work as well as the wedge of the fiskars just as the wedge won't work as well as a tool with a convex cheek design. Of course with red oak and ash a basic chopping ax works as well as the best designed maul!
Well after you said you swing ah hammer for ah living that was reason enough to listen an subscribe thanks for the video
Good vid man