another fine lesson on how to use material to make tools to make parts out of material, especially if multiple parts need to be made. just wow. simple, brilliant, efficient. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
I've never worked metal in my life, nor do I intend to, but I still find great enjoyment through your calm explanations of your craftsmanship. Thankyou!
I appreciate these videos more than I can say, for their combination of engineering, craft and art. Showing people how to make beautiful and practical things is one of the most honourable callings.
I've just met with CycleKart building, and started to search how to bend metal sheets, and a whole new world opened (I am from Information Technology industry). And your videos are fascinating, your works are unbelievable beautiful. Thank you!
Yeah - it's sort of counter-intuitive that you can get a smooth bend by forming over a bumpy surface. For the record, I am not the one who invented this process, but it really made an impression on me when I first saw it, and it has served me well over the years.
By just about 7:00 everyone who isn't from the US just got completely lost and had to rewind it to 6;30 to figure out what the heck you were doing. Thanks for another great video, Ron.
I recognize that only the U.S., Liberia and Myanmar use the Imperial measuring system, and the rest of the world agrees that the Metric system is better in every way. Nevertheless, I use 'the tools in my toolbox', because I am only fluent with the Imperial system, as awkward as it is. For several years now, I have been putting metric conversions in my RUclips videos, but after giving the conversion for 1/8-inch, it didn't seem necessary to list each one of the 'chain' of 1/8-inch additions I did to layout the cone-shaped form.
Instead of saying "almost perfect" we say "plumb nearly". I will notify the crew we will be using "almost perfect" from now on. Thank you very much for sharing your great video's.
Always greatly enjoying watching your videos many times over I'm always amazed. Looking forward to next bomder seat video your making. Much respect Ron.
I really like watching your videos, although I don't really know why. I do almost no metal work. I don't have ambitions to do metal work. I guess I just like your gentle style, your clear explanations, and the smooth shiny things you make. Thanks.
Wow this is just perfect for an application I have at work making an air duct for the front of a car. Thanks Ron! You're helping people even at the ends of the earth! Hello from New Zealand
I've never tried sheet metal work. I'm more comfortable with lathes and mills and precise metrology, but I have some ideas for microwave antenna feeds that are made from sheet. After watching all your videos, I'm feeling as though I might be able to make a reasonable attempt at forming the shapes I need and TIG welding the seams successfully.
Thanks Ron, perhaps a video about marking out techniques and common errors? I see a lot of self taught fabricators that might benefit from a summary of the basics. Thanks for sharing your time and experience, greatly appreciated 👍
Thanks for another great video sharing your years of experience Ron. There's definitely some ideas I can take from that for panels I need to form (remake actually!) on my mid-engine Locost-style project. Proud to be a Patron of this quality content.
Symmetrical radius's on panels just got a whole lot easier. And the forms can be used over and over which will be a HUGE time saver with dramatically increased quality. I will be sure to give you credit when making the cowl for my widened Model A project. I learned a lot about this stuff, but nothing this advanced from my shop teacher, Mr. Howell at Alameda High.
Wow, thanks for that simple and elegant solution. I ordered your English wheel and bead rolling DVD's and they just turned up yesterday. I'm exited to get started watching them tonight.
Now we need to buy the C-clamps as big as Maser Rons so we can become as good as he is one day :^] Master Ron you help a lot across the globe, please keep those excellent educative lessons going!
Just stumbled across your channel. Its such a shame we learn all these tricks over a life time and then we die! I have become an expert in my own field of manual machining but sadly I have never trained anyone. Modern technology allows your teachings to go thru the generations. You are certainly a great craftsman and a wonderful teacher.
Well, I'm very glad you found me. Yes, RUclips, and other online platforms have become vital platforms for passing knowledge down to the upcoming generations!
I have very limited tools, in the past I've used a hydraulic press to make faceted bends in ~1/8" alu, then gradually smooth them out with a hammer to achieve a desirable finish. Never occured to me to use that technique to make a form instead. Always learn something from your vids, thanks Ron!
This is good stuff to know. I've done similar work carving a wooden leading edge form but for some projects this seems like a faster method. One thing I've learned to do when the parts get long and the material is thin is to put a piece of L-angle or square tube between the clamp and the work, to help keep the metal from puckering in the middle. Same reason bending brakes have flanges and tensioned bracing across their span. For these as shown in the video parts it probably isn't needed, but even so we can see in some parts the bend has a little give between the ends. Just the same, when doing a longer part I use a nice thick and stiff flanged beam, like some 2x2 L-angle, and maybe with some plastic tape on one face for grip and scratch avoidance, to pull the sheet around, vs using my hands. It really helps spread the load a little better, again avoiding any bulging towards the middle of the bend but more importantly to prevent localized deformation because of your hands. I've found it really easy to put a crease in a sheet where hands are putting a lot of pressure on trying to bend say a 3 foot piece over a form, even if you have 2 people going at it; especially if doing stiffer metals like 6061-T6, and especially when using aircraft materials in the .020-.032 thickness range. Lastly if one was doing some rather large sheet with a very nuanced bend we can't forget the power of vacuum bagging. Vacuum bends thin sheet amazingly well over a form and this method could be very useful for that if the right circumstance were to call for it.
Thanks for the excellent tips! I had never thought of vacuum-bagging sheetmetal parts, but I can see how that would be helpful - especially for very large, very thin panels!
@@RonCovell Vacuum indeed is great for thin and large panels. We use it to bend light aircraft leading edges quite often. Some thick painter's drop cloth and plastic tape and a shop vac will do the trick. Anyone can search "leading edge vacuum bend" and find some results of aircraft builders using it. I've been able to make custom forms and get quite accurate tapered airfoil shapes and other bends with this method. Of course above a certain thickness vacuum isn't enough. For thinner sheet metal with enough surface area it's a winner. I'm curious to try this bump-bending method combined with rolling and vacuum bending with thinner sheet. It might work a treat especially if one has a lot of repeat bends to make. Plus, I always spend a lot of time on wooden forms making sure my surface is sanded smooth with a perfectly smooth, curved surface and filling any imperfections; and your video makes me think I'm being far too picky! Will be worth experimenting with larger stepovers leaving more visible facets to see how much spacing some .032 can handle before it prints into the final part.
Mr Covell, the only thing I don't like about your vids is that they make me want to drain my bank acct, find a project and set up a shop just to try some of this out.
Hi Ron, You make it look so easy! What thickness material do your use for you pan/press brake form, and how do you work out your allowance for spring back when doing the final piece?
I used .062-inch (1.6mm) aluminum for these forms, and of course thicker or harder material would work too. I normally make a narrow test piece, perhaps 2-inches (50mm) wide to work out the springback before I make a full-sized form.
Would that work for shapes like a street rod hood where the length might be 48”? There would be a little trouble man handling it and keeping the shape consistent left to right I think. But I totally will try it next time I get one to build. Always like your lessons, thank you.
This process would certainly work for a street rod hood, but for a one-off hood I would bend it freehand. Perhaps I'll make a video on that process in the future.
I don't have a video on the process, but it was included in a magazine article I wrote years ago. If you send me an email at covell@cruzio.com, I can send you a PDF of the article. I did find the video below on RUclips, but the way I show does not require a beading machine: ruclips.net/video/3LbmvG7Zd3k/видео.html
Hi Ron! Thanks for your tutorial videos. I would like to hear your opinion on the lighting in the metal workshop. Especially when working with sheet metal, its markings and so on. Which is the best type of light to use and how to position it. Surely you have personal advice on this matter that would be useful to everyone.
I set up my current shop about 25 years ago. The shop measures 25-feet by 50-feet, and I ran three rows of double-tube fluorescent lighting from one end to the other. (I'm sure you can convert to metric if necessary). A couple of years ago I swapped all the fluorescent tubes for LED replacements, and that made a huge improvement in light coverage! Plus, the new LED lighting will probably last longer than I do!
@@RonCovell So are you enjoying tube-lights? Got it I'll try them. I decided to use square office-type LED lamps, similar to softboxes, and I was faced with the fact that if such a lamp is above the table, then the reflected light will blind you. Therefore, you have to turn it off and turn on the other two on the sides. Therefore, I decided to find out what you think about point and diffused light sources :) After all, sheet metal is like a mirror
Well, all things being equal, I believe diffused light is better. It was much easier (and less expensive) to simply swap out my old fluorescent tubes with modern LED replacements rather than replace all the fixtures, and I really appreciate the increased light output. My light fixtures are about 12-feet above the floor. I think that with lower fixtures, the light could be more concentrated.
Thank you for sharing that technique. Your fixtures are made out of what material??? Is it the same or thicker? Like usual I learn buckets with every video. Stay safe and be well. Cheers
The fixtures could be made of any metal - aluminum and steel are the ones I normally use. For this video, the forms were .063-inch (1.6mm) aluminum, and the metal formed was .050-inch (1.2mm). You can actually form metal the same thickness as the form, although it can sometimes deflect a small amount.
Brilliant. I would have never thought to do that.
This is why I treasure each video you release.
Thank you so much for sharing.
You are so welcome!
Was going to post this exact comment. Such a brilliant concept.
This man is a national treasure. We must protect him at all costs.
Thanks for the kind words!
another fine lesson on how to use material to make tools to make parts out of material, especially if multiple parts need to be made. just wow. simple, brilliant, efficient. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
Glad you liked it!
You always make metal bending look so easy and simple. It really inspires me to do better. I'm retired but love too work with metal now in my life.
Go for it!
Literally the Bob Ross of metalworking videos. Such a simple trick and the bends look perfect. 🤌👍
Glad you like this process - it's a 'keeper'!
I like the simple solution to a complex problem. I will have to try it out on 2024 t3. Keep up the great content.
This should work on 2024 T3, but of course it will spring back much more, and it will crack if you try to bend it too tightly.
I've never worked metal in my life, nor do I intend to, but I still find great enjoyment through your calm explanations of your craftsmanship. Thankyou!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks Ron we are learning quite a lot. You are awesome. God bless you and yours.
Thanks, you too!
I appreciate these videos more than I can say, for their combination of engineering, craft and art. Showing people how to make beautiful and practical things is one of the most honourable callings.
I'm honored to have an audience for this kind of video!
I've just met with CycleKart building, and started to search how to bend metal sheets, and a whole new world opened (I am from Information Technology industry). And your videos are fascinating, your works are unbelievable beautiful. Thank you!
Welcome aboard!
The meat & potatos is the maximum distance between facets! Only experience gets that detail.
Thanks for sharing.
Very true!
wow!
this is one of those things that is obvious only AFTER someone has shown it to you. brilliant!!
Yeah - it's sort of counter-intuitive that you can get a smooth bend by forming over a bumpy surface. For the record, I am not the one who invented this process, but it really made an impression on me when I first saw it, and it has served me well over the years.
Thank you Ron for sharing all of your knowledge. True craftsmanship is always great to watch.
More to come!
I hadn't thought of that. That old pexto brake is beautiful. Thanks Ron.
I'm glad you enjoy my videos!
By just about 7:00 everyone who isn't from the US just got completely lost and had to rewind it to 6;30 to figure out what the heck you were doing. Thanks for another great video, Ron.
I recognize that only the U.S., Liberia and Myanmar use the Imperial measuring system, and the rest of the world agrees that the Metric system is better in every way. Nevertheless, I use 'the tools in my toolbox', because I am only fluent with the Imperial system, as awkward as it is. For several years now, I have been putting metric conversions in my RUclips videos, but after giving the conversion for 1/8-inch, it didn't seem necessary to list each one of the 'chain' of 1/8-inch additions I did to layout the cone-shaped form.
I feel the same as I watched Bob Ross videos. Cooling and easy going. Perfect.
Great video, never used the brake this way. Thanks for investing your time to share this. Headed to your website.
Yes, there are many non-conventional ways to use a bending brake. This is just one of them.
Yet another skill to explore! Love the minimalist approach, smarts and a few tools go a long way.
Thanks!
It is really a great solution, practical and quick to make excellent bends. You are always great.
Thank you very much!
Just another gem to put in the toolbox. Thanks Ron.
I hope it will be helpful some day!
Thats a lovely chunky Pexto brake you have too!!!, looks super solid!
Yes, that brake is made from cast iron, and it's quite stout!
Instead of saying "almost perfect" we say "plumb nearly". I will notify the crew we will be using "almost perfect" from now on. Thank you very much for sharing your great video's.
Always greatly enjoying watching your videos many times over I'm always amazed.
Looking forward to next bomder seat video your making. Much respect Ron.
Thank you very much!
The work you do Ron is 1st class. The hammer and dolly set you offer is on my list 👍
Thanks so much. Remember, Christmas is not that far away!
I wanted to say thank you for sharing some of the knowledge and wisdom you have . You Sir, are truly a Craftsman of the trade . Blessings .
Wow, thanks so much, and I'm delighted that you enjoy my videos!
Another fine job my friend! Thanks for sharing your skills with us.
My pleasure!
I really like watching your videos, although I don't really know why. I do almost no metal work. I don't have ambitions to do metal work. I guess I just like your gentle style, your clear explanations, and the smooth shiny things you make. Thanks.
That is awesome!
Most exciting tips yet! That last form is my imaginary 32 ford hood!
Yes, you certainly could make a hood this way!
Like always, you are great. I'm making a custom '39 Ford 3 windows, out of a 4 door, and probably will using this technique. Thanks ron
I hope it works well for you!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and for taking the time to do these videos. You are an amazing Craftsman/ artist.
Glad you like them!
Muchas gracias !!!! Aprender con usted es algo impagable!!! No hay precio !!! Usted me hace acordar de mí abuelo .....
Estoy muy contento de que disfrutes mis videos!
Wow this is just perfect for an application I have at work making an air duct for the front of a car. Thanks Ron! You're helping people even at the ends of the earth! Hello from New Zealand
I'm so glad you enjoyed this video. I have traveled quite a bit in New Zealand, and I know there are LOTS of very creative people there!
Absolutely wonderful. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and sharing with us
Glad you enjoyed it!
I've never tried sheet metal work. I'm more comfortable with lathes and mills and precise metrology, but I have some ideas for microwave antenna feeds that are made from sheet. After watching all your videos, I'm feeling as though I might be able to make a reasonable attempt at forming the shapes I need and TIG welding the seams successfully.
I hope this can work for your application. Let me know if I can help!
This is a really fast way of making nice rolls Ron, awesome technique!! Always learning from you, thank you so much!!
Glad you liked it!
I always love watching you work.
Thank you! Cheers!
The things you do seem like magic. I love the fact you let us know how the trick is done.
Well, if you do it the way I do it, your results will be the same, so it's definitely not magic!
Thanks Ron, always a pleasure to watch.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great technique Ron. I enjoyed meeting and talking with you at Jere's.
Randy - the pleasure was mine. My brand-new knocker is resting on my mill table, ready for action!
@@RonCovell Nice
I'm honored to learn from you. Even if I don't work with sheet metal i still find uses for some of the techniques. Ur a true gem !
Hey, that's great to hear. Cheers!
Thanks Ron, perhaps a video about marking out techniques and common errors? I see a lot of self taught fabricators that might benefit from a summary of the basics. Thanks for sharing your time and experience, greatly appreciated 👍
Thanks for watching, and commenting!
I've made a few dragster cowls over a round tube, I like that progressive bend much better! Thanks Ron!
Yes, I think the progressive bend has a much nicer look.
Unique AND useful. This one will go in the toolbox.
Jere
Thanks so much, Jere! It's pretty hard to come up with something that you haven't already done!
Thanks for another great video sharing your years of experience Ron. There's definitely some ideas I can take from that for panels I need to form (remake actually!) on my mid-engine Locost-style project. Proud to be a Patron of this quality content.
I truly appreciate your continued support!
I have really enjoyed learning from your videos. It's helped me with machine guard making. Now my guards are formed and not just bent lines.
I'm very glad to hear that the quality of your work is improving!
Wow thankyou for the inspiration to have a go please never stop making videos best regards mark
I'm glad you liked it, and there will be many more videos to come.
The Master does it again.
Thanks!
Nicely done, Ron.
Simple and effective.
Joe
Joe - I hope it can prove useful for you someday!
Your tips are always welcome, thanks
Glad to hear that
Awesome work! Every time I learn something from your videos. Clear and concise.
Great to hear!
Symmetrical radius's on panels just got a whole lot easier. And the forms can be used over and over which will be a HUGE time saver with dramatically increased quality. I will be sure to give you credit when making the cowl for my widened Model A project. I learned a lot about this stuff, but nothing this advanced from my shop teacher, Mr. Howell at Alameda High.
I'm very glad you have a project this technique can help with!
Wow, thanks for that simple and elegant solution.
I ordered your English wheel and bead rolling DVD's and they just turned up yesterday. I'm exited to get started watching them tonight.
Great news - I hope you will learn a lot from them. RUclips is great, but my DVDs go into a lot more depth.
I've learned two more things already watching 2 of your videos. Already liked and subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Excelent Ron - Its a joy to watch your vids and I always learn something new to try.
A true craftsman👍, a pleasure to watch. 👍.
Wow, thanks!
Now we need to buy the C-clamps as big as Maser Rons so we can become as good as he is one day :^]
Master Ron you help a lot across the globe, please keep those excellent educative lessons going!
Well, I have made a sizable investment in C clamps, but you can do much of this work with simpler tools.
@@RonCovell we do, but have i had those it would be a breeze at moments XD
Ron ,thanks , always looking forward to your how to's ,, as usual brilliant ,, all the best from Aus ...
I'm so glad you liked this one, and there are many more on the way!
Ron, as always thanks for sharing you’re knowledge
Thanks for watching!
Great tip! Thanks for sharing. Wish I could give more than one thumbs up.
Glad it was helpful!
Another great lesson. This is new to me and it is great learning on metal forming, very useful. Thank you for the video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is a great idea. I really enjoy learning new techniques like this. Another great video. Thank you.
You are so welcome!
Wonderfull job! Thanks from Brazil!
Thank you too!
Thank you Ron. i learn so much from your work.
I appreciate that!
Excellent video thanks Ron
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great to watch and learn some awesome skills I wish I was 20 again ,thanks ( Melb Australia )🐸
Well, it's been a long time since I was 20, and I'm still learning new things!
@@RonCovell Ron you are a very humble individual .... Keep safe.🐸
Hi Ron, Once again another great tip. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Are you back from your travels?
@@RonCovell Yes, I plan to cut the Radius gauge and the English wheel gauge this week..Ill send a phot of the sample. Always amazed with your work.
Thanks again Ron.
You are very welcome!
Another great video! Thanks so much.
Excellent! Very clear instructions. Must get a press brake 😃
Glad it was helpful!
Just stumbled across your channel. Its such a shame we learn all these tricks over a life time and then we die! I have become an expert in my own field of manual machining but sadly I have never trained anyone. Modern technology allows your teachings to go thru the generations. You are certainly a great craftsman and a wonderful teacher.
Well, I'm very glad you found me. Yes, RUclips, and other online platforms have become vital platforms for passing knowledge down to the upcoming generations!
Thanks Ron. Amazing stuff.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have very limited tools, in the past I've used a hydraulic press to make faceted bends in ~1/8" alu, then gradually smooth them out with a hammer to achieve a desirable finish.
Never occured to me to use that technique to make a form instead. Always learn something from your vids, thanks Ron!
Well, this technique could definitely save you some time, especially if you are making multiple parts!
Good stuff Ron. Thank You for sharing your skills with us.
You bet!
Looks great
Thanks!
Thank you for sharing
My pleasure
Thank you for best solutions 👍
Glad you enjoyed the video!
your a good teacher
Thank you very much!
Thank you for teaching
You are welcome. Thanks for watching, and commenting!
@@RonCovell Anytime sir
Thanks for another great video Ron.
Love your work mate!
Simply amazing! Imagine if you had a 10 th of his knowledge.
I'm so glad you enjoy my videos. If you watch 10 of them, you should know as much as I do!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
always great work
Thank you so much!
This is really cool! Thanks for sharing!
Glad you liked it!
love it, the last piece could be a hood for a locost
Yes, it certainly could be!
OMG, perfect, so clear, the best!
Thank you! 😃
This is good stuff to know. I've done similar work carving a wooden leading edge form but for some projects this seems like a faster method.
One thing I've learned to do when the parts get long and the material is thin is to put a piece of L-angle or square tube between the clamp and the work, to help keep the metal from puckering in the middle. Same reason bending brakes have flanges and tensioned bracing across their span. For these as shown in the video parts it probably isn't needed, but even so we can see in some parts the bend has a little give between the ends.
Just the same, when doing a longer part I use a nice thick and stiff flanged beam, like some 2x2 L-angle, and maybe with some plastic tape on one face for grip and scratch avoidance, to pull the sheet around, vs using my hands. It really helps spread the load a little better, again avoiding any bulging towards the middle of the bend but more importantly to prevent localized deformation because of your hands. I've found it really easy to put a crease in a sheet where hands are putting a lot of pressure on trying to bend say a 3 foot piece over a form, even if you have 2 people going at it; especially if doing stiffer metals like 6061-T6, and especially when using aircraft materials in the .020-.032 thickness range.
Lastly if one was doing some rather large sheet with a very nuanced bend we can't forget the power of vacuum bagging. Vacuum bends thin sheet amazingly well over a form and this method could be very useful for that if the right circumstance were to call for it.
Thanks for the excellent tips! I had never thought of vacuum-bagging sheetmetal parts, but I can see how that would be helpful - especially for very large, very thin panels!
@@RonCovell
Vacuum indeed is great for thin and large panels. We use it to bend light aircraft leading edges quite often. Some thick painter's drop cloth and plastic tape and a shop vac will do the trick.
Anyone can search "leading edge vacuum bend" and find some results of aircraft builders using it. I've been able to make custom forms and get quite accurate tapered airfoil shapes and other bends with this method.
Of course above a certain thickness vacuum isn't enough. For thinner sheet metal with enough surface area it's a winner.
I'm curious to try this bump-bending method combined with rolling and vacuum bending with thinner sheet. It might work a treat especially if one has a lot of repeat bends to make.
Plus, I always spend a lot of time on wooden forms making sure my surface is sanded smooth with a perfectly smooth, curved surface and filling any imperfections; and your video makes me think I'm being far too picky! Will be worth experimenting with larger stepovers leaving more visible facets to see how much spacing some .032 can handle before it prints into the final part.
Genius - thank you Ron. 😄
I have many more videos planned - glad you like them!
absolutely beautiful as always, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You are so welcome!
Thanks you Ron! 👍👍😎👍👍
You are very welcome!
always great videos
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
Cool. Hope you are doing well. Happy Holidays.
Thanks! You too!
Mr Covell, the only thing I don't like about your vids is that they make me want to drain my bank acct, find a project and set up a shop just to try some of this out.
Hi Ron,
You make it look so easy!
What thickness material do your use for you pan/press brake form, and how do you work out your allowance for spring back when doing the final piece?
I used .062-inch (1.6mm) aluminum for these forms, and of course thicker or harder material would work too. I normally make a narrow test piece, perhaps 2-inches (50mm) wide to work out the springback before I make a full-sized form.
Looks sooo easy to make, but without you techniq ... Think Terrible how make easy =) Thx & greetz from Germany
You can do it!
Would that work for shapes like a street rod hood where the length might be 48”? There would be a little trouble man handling it and keeping the shape consistent left to right I think. But I totally will try it next time I get one to build. Always like your lessons, thank you.
This process would certainly work for a street rod hood, but for a one-off hood I would bend it freehand. Perhaps I'll make a video on that process in the future.
Interesting technique Ron. Have to think how I can use that one too...
I hope it proves useful someday!
Do you have a DIY video on making sheetmetal louvers?
I don't have a video on the process, but it was included in a magazine article I wrote years ago. If you send me an email at covell@cruzio.com, I can send you a PDF of the article.
I did find the video below on RUclips, but the way I show does not require a beading machine:
ruclips.net/video/3LbmvG7Zd3k/видео.html
Hi Ron! Thanks for your tutorial videos. I would like to hear your opinion on the lighting in the metal workshop. Especially when working with sheet metal, its markings and so on. Which is the best type of light to use and how to position it. Surely you have personal advice on this matter that would be useful to everyone.
I set up my current shop about 25 years ago. The shop measures 25-feet by 50-feet, and I ran three rows of double-tube fluorescent lighting from one end to the other. (I'm sure you can convert to metric if necessary). A couple of years ago I swapped all the fluorescent tubes for LED replacements, and that made a huge improvement in light coverage! Plus, the new LED lighting will probably last longer than I do!
@@RonCovell So are you enjoying tube-lights? Got it I'll try them. I decided to use square office-type LED lamps, similar to softboxes, and I was faced with the fact that if such a lamp is above the table, then the reflected light will blind you. Therefore, you have to turn it off and turn on the other two on the sides. Therefore, I decided to find out what you think about point and diffused light sources :) After all, sheet metal is like a mirror
Well, all things being equal, I believe diffused light is better. It was much easier (and less expensive) to simply swap out my old fluorescent tubes with modern LED replacements rather than replace all the fixtures, and I really appreciate the increased light output. My light fixtures are about 12-feet above the floor. I think that with lower fixtures, the light could be more concentrated.
Thank you for sharing that technique. Your fixtures are made out of what material??? Is it the same or thicker? Like usual I learn buckets with every video. Stay safe and be well. Cheers
The fixtures could be made of any metal - aluminum and steel are the ones I normally use. For this video, the forms were .063-inch (1.6mm) aluminum, and the metal formed was .050-inch (1.2mm). You can actually form metal the same thickness as the form, although it can sometimes deflect a small amount.