You might mention to use fresh blasting media as often times oils and grease can make it into the blast media from previous blasting projects . Just a thought.
Thank you for the c-186, Piston top coating video and the c-110, Piston skirt coating video. I've been interested in having this done but we don't have anybody near me. Now that I know how it's done, I thank you. Can you please elaborate on the before and after differences of performance, mileage, temp etc, anything that you have noticed, Post rebuild, after the coatings were sprayed and engine put back together and driven?? I noticed you said a 5-day waiting period with no oven cure, does this brand cure without heat before engine start up? I usually see people buying toaster ovens from the second hand store to bake their pistons after being sprayed.. is that really needed? Or are they just going the extra mile? I have read cerakote articles where people spray the bottoms of their exhaust valves and the insides of their combustion Chambers.. do you plan on doing this in the future? If so, can you please make a video? Also, where did you purchase your piston coatings? I noticed when you applied the c-110 micro slick, to the Piston skirt, that you left bare metal around the edges. Is that done on purpose for a specific reason? Or can the whole skirt from bottom ring down to the very skirt bottom be coated?? Thanks,
The coating will wear away, as long as it’s not scraping off as you’re putting in cylinder bore I think it’ll be fine. Oil filter needs to be changed after engine brake in anyways
Appreciate you posting this video. I'm in the process of putting together a vw mk4 1.8t. Question: Was the 4oz boytle enough for your application? Thanks.
Sorry brother, I dont. I just eyeballed the thickness and got it as close to stock as possible. I figure if the coating is too thick, itll rub off and make a perfect fit inside the bore.
Hey, the engine is together and prepared for all the peripherals (alternator, pumps, manifolds, etc). Should be running in 1-2 months if my wallet allows me to finish the turbo setup haha. But this is a really good idea. Ill think about it, and maybe ill come back after i do some burnouts, high engine load circumstances, etc.. and then inspect the coatings. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@JakeSublime I was emailing the guy today. I told him you had done 2 vids and that he should sign you up, because you were more relatable and gave very good info. Hope I don't see that, after 1000 miles video unless they sign you up😉
@@JakeSublime have you considered coating the underside of the piston?. Coating the top side on an engine will rub off when the engine is used for long periods So i was thinking it wouldnt hurt coating the bottom side which will further keep the heat away from the oil and never rub off
I like where your head is at. It sounds like youre talking about the ceramic coating for the piston. The ceramic SHOULDNT come off of the top of the piston. It molecularly bonds to it, so no matter what the ceramic is a part of the piston now. That said, the ceramic's job is to act like a mirror, and like insulation, both at the same time. That way, the piston absorbs less heat from the combustion chamber, keeping it cooler. In any engine, it is beneficial to have oil splash against the piston some how. This assists the piston's rings in removing heat from the piston (as piston rings primary/secondary jobs are to remove heat from the piston). Coating the bottom of the piston would reduce the amount of heat the oil can remove from the piston, and that would be bad.
@@JakeSublime i agree. I was more focused on trapping the heat inside the chamber and not caring about cooling the piston. It was because I read somewhere that a guy had his pistons lose 40% of the ceramic coating. I was also wondering about iron sleeves in high performance engines. Why dont they ceramic coat the Outside of the iron sleeves before they press them this will help keep the heat inside the chamber as the piston moves down and the cooling of the aluminum block will not be effected if anything improved
Not sure. The engine hasnt spit anything out, and the combustion chambers just look BLACK lmao. Too much racing it i suppose. I will eventually pull the pan and check everything, down the road. When i do, ill check the pistons and their coatings.
I thought these pistons looked familiar. I'm looking for an OM606.962 to stuff into my W124. The 606.910 leaves me a little wanting 😅. Did you do this to restore the original coating that had warn off?
Nice, I say do it!! And yes, the factory coating had worn off a little bit, that and i wanted to put an updated coating on it. Not saying mercedes doesnt know their engine stuff, im sure the factory coating would have been okay in its worn condition. But, i just figured a piston coating designed by a name brand in 2019-2020 would be a good bet. Plus, this coating with the other coating i did on the tops, now i have custom "high performance" pistons. :D
@@JakeSublime I would in a heartbeat, but time and money restrictions right now. I'm just keeping my ear to the ground waiting for one to pop up. I'm guessing modern materials are better, but MB did some cool stuff back in the day. You think their modern engines have piston treatments? Maybe their high dollar or performance oriented cars, but otherwise I kinda doubt it.
My guess is most engines in general have sideskirt lube coats (modern engine designs). So yes, mercedes probably does that with all their engines. I doubt most manufacturers coat the piston tops with ceramic, however. Maybe a select few models from a few manufacturers, or possibly some high end cars like lambo or something.
I followed manufacturer directions and used the proper equipment. This should perform as advertised. The only thing i would do differently is reduce airflow, and wear as mask (to reduce dust getting in coatings).
Why does dinner taste like.... like.... *smacks lips*.... engine oil? Bro don't use your oven. I had to bake my cases to get the bearings out. Use an old grill with a low flame and get it up to temp. Works like a charm. I did however get some funny looks from my neighbors when I was loading a grill with a cookie sheet of engine parts.
Very impressive work. Where could I get the coating paint? My Merc 90 hp is slapping, so I think the easy way is to build up the piston skirt wearing surface for reducing friction.
If you pop a quick google, Cerakote C-110 is available on their own online store. Both C-110 and C-186 can be purchased over there. "Tester" size is what i used, and it's enough for 2 small/med engines (4-6 cyl) or 1 large engine (8-12 cyl). However, if youve truly got piston slap, its possible that sideskirt coatings are not the answer. You might need new pistons, brother. Then, coat the new pistons with C-110, and maybe C-186 while youre in there lol. I might be wrong about that, so unless you know otherwise, id give it a try at least.
Hi Osborne, am in same situation and rather than spend £400 on new pistons & liners will try the £35 tester bottle of this stuff. My engineer says we only need to make up 3 thou on the skirt - so is about 9 coats of this C-110. Did you try this yet.? work for you.?
It surely would at least reduce slapping, yes. However, if I were you, I'd try to source used pistons from a motor in a salvage yard or something. Just a thought
@@JakeSublime No it will not, It will cease the piston in the wall & cause the rod to protrude from the block. You cannot DIY piston skirt coating. The paint has to be heat treated onto the piston at certain temperature & also you have to chemically clean the piston prior to coating it. This is entire fail attempt. Do not try this, your engine will throw a rod or two I a sure you. Not to mention you will have paint flakes in circulation internally.
And also your dry film thickness is 0,0001 to 0,0005 as per cerakote recommendation. Basically 2 light coats worth at 30psi. In this case slightly overdone but OK
In my mind, as long as its not so tight in wont go in, itll be perfect. In fact, the tighter, the better. Any extra material the piston doesnt want on it can be worn off and at th4e least depo'd into the cylinder wall, creating a more slick surface. If nothing else, the piston will find its own clearance. I only say this in this circumstance, because were talking about a "lubricant". So on short, i sprayed and prayed i guess haha.
I was spraying 6 pistons. After i got to the last piston, i circled back around to the first again. So anywhere between 10 and 20 minutes between coats.
Hey, the goal for this engine is to run 400-500 hp, reliably, for 100k miles/160k kilometers. Its going to be my daily driver, ive got to make sure its going to last! Im going to road trip in this car, all across the US!
This process entirely is a fail attempt. Do not try this, your engine will throw a rod or two I a sure you. Not to mention you will have paint flakes in circulation internally. The correct way to coat is you gave to chemically clean the piston it self first & you bake the paint coating onto the piston like powder coating process.
![Are Piston Coatings Worth Having AND Can Coatings Save Your Engine? [TECH TALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1MZZrCWqWm4/mqdefault.jpg)
Im preparing to do this and I am so nervous!!!
But I felt I was able to do it based on this video. Thanks!!
You might mention to use fresh blasting media as often times oils and grease can make it into the blast media from previous blasting projects . Just a thought.
Thank you for the c-186, Piston top coating video and the c-110, Piston skirt coating video. I've been interested in having this done but we don't have anybody near me. Now that I know how it's done, I thank you. Can you please elaborate on the before and after differences of performance, mileage, temp etc, anything that you have noticed, Post rebuild, after the coatings were sprayed and engine put back together and driven?? I noticed you said a 5-day waiting period with no oven cure, does this brand cure without heat before engine start up? I usually see people buying toaster ovens from the second hand store to bake their pistons after being sprayed.. is that really needed?
Or are they just going the extra mile?
I have read cerakote articles where people spray the bottoms of their exhaust valves and the insides of their combustion Chambers.. do you plan on doing this in the future? If so, can you please make a video? Also, where did you purchase your piston coatings?
I noticed when you applied the c-110 micro slick, to the Piston skirt, that you left bare metal around the edges. Is that done on purpose for a specific reason? Or can the whole skirt from bottom ring down to the very skirt bottom be coated??
Thanks,
It's worth mentioning to not spray paint if any sort towards cars in the background... 20 feet away still ruins a car's finish with over spray.
I’d like to try it on crankshaft rod and journal bearings
The coating will wear away, as long as it’s not scraping off as you’re putting in cylinder bore I think it’ll be fine. Oil filter needs to be changed after engine brake in anyways
I’m going to to try on my diesel pistons along with the top coat, fingers crossed 😅
Appreciate you posting this video. I'm in the process of putting together a vw mk4 1.8t.
Question: Was the 4oz boytle enough for your application?
Thanks.
Same question I was going to ask. Any replies?
@Nitrousedstang For our build, 4oz was more than enough. We have some leftover.
Any chance you have a before and after skirt diameter measurement? Thanks!
Sorry brother, I dont. I just eyeballed the thickness and got it as close to stock as possible. I figure if the coating is too thick, itll rub off and make a perfect fit inside the bore.
Looking good!
What did you spray on ???
When's the update video?
Very cool!
Have you put it to use yet? How's the pistons holding up. Hey you may need a 3rd video for that and show the pistons after a thousand miles😂
Hey, the engine is together and prepared for all the peripherals (alternator, pumps, manifolds, etc). Should be running in 1-2 months if my wallet allows me to finish the turbo setup haha.
But this is a really good idea. Ill think about it, and maybe ill come back after i do some burnouts, high engine load circumstances, etc.. and then inspect the coatings. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@JakeSublime I was emailing the guy today. I told him you had done 2 vids and that he should sign you up, because you were more relatable and gave very good info. Hope I don't see that, after 1000 miles video unless they sign you up😉
@@JakeSublime have you considered coating the underside of the piston?.
Coating the top side on an engine will rub off when the engine is used for long periods
So i was thinking it wouldnt hurt coating the bottom side which will further keep the heat away from the oil and never rub off
I like where your head is at. It sounds like youre talking about the ceramic coating for the piston.
The ceramic SHOULDNT come off of the top of the piston. It molecularly bonds to it, so no matter what the ceramic is a part of the piston now. That said, the ceramic's job is to act like a mirror, and like insulation, both at the same time. That way, the piston absorbs less heat from the combustion chamber, keeping it cooler.
In any engine, it is beneficial to have oil splash against the piston some how. This assists the piston's rings in removing heat from the piston (as piston rings primary/secondary jobs are to remove heat from the piston). Coating the bottom of the piston would reduce the amount of heat the oil can remove from the piston, and that would be bad.
@@JakeSublime i agree. I was more focused on trapping the heat inside the chamber and not caring about cooling the piston.
It was because I read somewhere that a guy had his pistons lose 40% of the ceramic coating.
I was also wondering about iron sleeves in high performance engines. Why dont they ceramic coat the Outside of the iron sleeves before they press them
this will help keep the heat inside the chamber as the piston moves down and the cooling of the aluminum block will not be effected if anything improved
After a year, how are the coatings holding up? Assuming that you have the engine running
Not sure. The engine hasnt spit anything out, and the combustion chambers just look BLACK lmao. Too much racing it i suppose.
I will eventually pull the pan and check everything, down the road. When i do, ill check the pistons and their coatings.
I thought these pistons looked familiar. I'm looking for an OM606.962 to stuff into my W124. The 606.910 leaves me a little wanting 😅. Did you do this to restore the original coating that had warn off?
Nice, I say do it!! And yes, the factory coating had worn off a little bit, that and i wanted to put an updated coating on it. Not saying mercedes doesnt know their engine stuff, im sure the factory coating would have been okay in its worn condition. But, i just figured a piston coating designed by a name brand in 2019-2020 would be a good bet.
Plus, this coating with the other coating i did on the tops, now i have custom "high performance" pistons. :D
@@JakeSublime I would in a heartbeat, but time and money restrictions right now. I'm just keeping my ear to the ground waiting for one to pop up. I'm guessing modern materials are better, but MB did some cool stuff back in the day. You think their modern engines have piston treatments? Maybe their high dollar or performance oriented cars, but otherwise I kinda doubt it.
My guess is most engines in general have sideskirt lube coats (modern engine designs). So yes, mercedes probably does that with all their engines. I doubt most manufacturers coat the piston tops with ceramic, however. Maybe a select few models from a few manufacturers, or possibly some high end cars like lambo or something.
Is this a tried and tested job or is this a suck it and see and make a video while at it
I always thought the coating were done to specific tolerances
I followed manufacturer directions and used the proper equipment. This should perform as advertised. The only thing i would do differently is reduce airflow, and wear as mask (to reduce dust getting in coatings).
@@JakeSublime are the pistons in the block then ? Did they go in ok if so...
I'll be interested to see how this works out
@@beltdrivetypea6534engine blew up after running for about a month
m103 engine? or m104?
Why does dinner taste like.... like.... *smacks lips*.... engine oil? Bro don't use your oven. I had to bake my cases to get the bearings out. Use an old grill with a low flame and get it up to temp. Works like a charm. I did however get some funny looks from my neighbors when I was loading a grill with a cookie sheet of engine parts.
Very impressive work. Where could I get the coating paint? My Merc 90 hp is slapping, so I think the easy way is to build up the piston skirt wearing surface for reducing friction.
If you pop a quick google, Cerakote C-110 is available on their own online store. Both C-110 and C-186 can be purchased over there. "Tester" size is what i used, and it's enough for 2 small/med engines (4-6 cyl) or 1 large engine (8-12 cyl).
However, if youve truly got piston slap, its possible that sideskirt coatings are not the answer. You might need new pistons, brother. Then, coat the new pistons with C-110, and maybe C-186 while youre in there lol. I might be wrong about that, so unless you know otherwise, id give it a try at least.
Hi Osborne, am in same situation and rather than spend £400 on new pistons & liners will try the £35 tester bottle of this stuff. My engineer says we only need to make up 3 thou on the skirt - so is about 9 coats of this C-110. Did you try this yet.? work for you.?
@@pbocking44 this wont work. Its paint not metal. And its air cure. This will scuff off
If you were to put a thick enough coat on, do you think this could help/eliminate piston slap? Looking for a cost effective way, low on funds.
It surely would at least reduce slapping, yes. However, if I were you, I'd try to source used pistons from a motor in a salvage yard or something. Just a thought
@@JakeSublime No it will not, It will cease the piston in the wall & cause the rod to protrude from the block. You cannot DIY piston skirt coating. The paint has to be heat treated onto the piston at certain temperature & also you have to chemically clean the piston prior to coating it. This is entire fail attempt. Do not try this, your engine will throw a rod or two I a sure you. Not to mention you will have paint flakes in circulation internally.
And also your dry film thickness is 0,0001 to 0,0005 as per cerakote recommendation. Basically 2 light coats worth at 30psi. In this case slightly overdone but OK
Nah, it says all over that it doesn't change the dimensions...
Hey that looked really good. How much do you allow on your piston to wall clearance for the product?
In my mind, as long as its not so tight in wont go in, itll be perfect. In fact, the tighter, the better. Any extra material the piston doesnt want on it can be worn off and at th4e least depo'd into the cylinder wall, creating a more slick surface. If nothing else, the piston will find its own clearance.
I only say this in this circumstance, because were talking about a "lubricant". So on short, i sprayed and prayed i guess haha.
The cerakote material is less than a mm thick, it has negligible effect on clearance.
@@JVR_Funwithdesign you mean um ( micro meter ) probably :)
@@flappingflight8537 Nope..the tech sheet for it says 1mil ;)
@@flappingflight8537 images.nicindustries.com/cerakote/documents/146/c-186q-piston-coat-dt20200115005806228.pdf
How long did you wait between coats?
I was spraying 6 pistons. After i got to the last piston, i circled back around to the first again. So anywhere between 10 and 20 minutes between coats.
How many oz is the bottle?
Im like 99% sure it was the "Tester" 4oz for $35
And the coating name and where to buy it???
Cerakote c110 micro slick
Oh so this is w210 build everybody has different preferences I guess 🧐
Hey, the goal for this engine is to run 400-500 hp, reliably, for 100k miles/160k kilometers. Its going to be my daily driver, ive got to make sure its going to last! Im going to road trip in this car, all across the US!
Bad Idea! Better to add light grooves or knurling the skirts! coatings wear off quick!
Why do it? No advantage to it
This process entirely is a fail attempt. Do not try this, your engine will throw a rod or two I a sure you. Not to mention you will have paint flakes in circulation internally. The correct way to coat is you gave to chemically clean the piston it self first & you bake the paint coating onto the piston like powder coating process.
CeraKote Micro Slick is an air-dry product.
This literally makes no sense what you said the fk would it make you throw a rod and what do you think acetone is
Throw a rod! Lol . Thats funny. Blinker fluid would cause rod failure before this would.