Have you tore this engine down since this vid I am curious how they held up. I just started experimenting with this. I have been putting this stuff on everything. It crazy how well this paint bonds even with minimal to no prep.
Hey, sorry guys, I've been doing a lot of stuff for the holidays, as well as working on a 94 honda civic with the d15 motor. I'm going to finish that project soon and ill post more videos. Gotta make $$$ to fund the build!
This is a very interesting idea I've never thought of that we have a m104 2.8 that we plan to boost and quite possibly fit into a w210 e class thank you for putting this idea out here and giving great instructional video it's great to see mercedes cars being tuned more often as the engines are great just not built to be revved to 6500rpm we have more experience with the m111 in the UK as that's most common over here kompressor model anyway but there is a lot shared between these two engines
Hey, yeah im all about going the extra mile (or kilometer (lol)) to ensure the strong health of my engines. And yes, I plan to aim for a flat torque curve to combat the low rev limit. Ive considered adding a second set of mercedes genuine springs (smaller design, meant for another engine) to the valves to make the head better to rev to 7-7.5k but I havent pulled the trigger on that yet. Mercedes has made some truely great engines though, 100%. I love my m104.
@@JakeSublime I absolutely agree with you there the main reason m111 and m104 rods break is sometimes people treat them like a BMW or Honda engine and rev the out or past 8000rpm which unless it's got forged rods in it the end result won't be very good but an m104 with double valve springs should be perfectly fine at a max rpm of 7500 with some cautious timing on the top end but great videos I might have ago at this in the future keep up the great work look forward to seeing more videos
Checked up on this from cerakoat there are 2 different piston coatings one air dry and one oven dry and they are both the same price and both have same temp tolerances and durability? it is not recommended to oven dry the air dry product so which one you use is totally up to you. I would have to say buy the air dry because if the pistons are already on rods with pressfit pins then no need to have them separated. price I found was $35 for 4 oz
Bro, so glad to interest you! Thats my w210 1997 e320 with m104 inline 6. Im turboing it to 450-500hp on stock internals. Check out my channel to watch the progress. Im close to having everything i need to finish the build. In fact, stuff is in the mail right now to complete the project.
When I spray I try to use a dust free environment . spraying in a garage With the door open is not advisable as dust and debris is likely to float around !
You need to drown the top of the pistons with acetone after you sand blast. You probably had some left over media on the tops. This is what cerakote recommends. You can also get a cheap tiny oven so you can "outgas" the pistons to also help in burning off any contaminants. Those contaminants will cause the ceramic to flake most likely.
I followed Cerakote's instructions, as their data sheet describes. The only thing i did not do was cook the pistons in an oven, as that was not required. Its likely best to bake the pistons first, however i do not have a shop oven.
some time down the road i will check the pistons and see how well they held up. Theyre in the car though, its got 3500 miles on those painted pistons so far.
Yes, it gives a rough surface for the ceramic to bond too. If the surface is new and shiny and smooth, the ceramic has no nooks and crannies to grab into.
@@JakeSublime Did you use #120 Grit Premium Brown Fused Aluminum Oxide for sand blasting correct? Did you clean your new spray gun before use it? All of them comes greasy!!
I used what i said in the video, it was some grit aluminum oxide. Its to spec with Cerakote's instructions. And, ive used that blaster with soda and glass bead several times before, it was clean. If i had known that they come oily, i would have mentioned it in the video.
@@FirstLast-tx3yj Nope, just what you see here. It would be cool to coat the inside of the exhaust/turbo manifold though. This would improve the life of the manifold, and improve exhaust gas velocity! Maybe one day ill try this out.
Yes thats where i purchased mine from. The best way to purchase from them if youre in Europe is through their Europe branch, i think. www.cerakote.com/europe At the end of the day, if you spend $100 or $150 to coat your pistons, id still say its worth it in my opinion.
Great question. For my application, i still need to do some research on the best plugs to use. I may just use my original Ruthenium plugs, however. Now, Im going to do my best to answer your question. I assume youre talking about ceramic coating the head side of the combustion chamber as well as the valves. Firstly, make sure you know EXACTLY what youre doing, you dont want to accidentally ceramic coat something you dont mean to. And, i would 100% bake the head prior to coating it with ceramic, to off-gas anything in the head's pores. Secondly, i wouldnt coat the back side of the valves, as i wouldnt want to cover the valves seat and then have to grind through the ceramic to reseat the valve. That goes for the head side, and the valve side, of the valve seating surfaces. Lastly, in a circumstance where 98% of the surface area of the combustion chamber is lined with ceramic, i would certainly take in to consideration the increase in combustion temperatures. This would likely impact the performance of the ignition source, and possibly require an engine tune to adjust for the increase in combustion efficiency. I sincerely hope this helps you. If you have more questions, or need clarification, just reply.
yeah, its what it looks like sadly.. The downside of doing this work in an extremely dry environment, in my garage. However, it should still work. I have high confidence! haha hopefully not misplaced.
@@JakeSublime yeah dirt us usually fine just doesn't look the best. Good tip is to slightly mist the floor with water to keep dust down and if you have a drain I'd just do a quick once over with a hose
So I just stumbled across this today. I was reading the Cerakote instructions and it says it is for piston sideskirts, is a dry lubricant product, and only withstands up to 1200 F combustion so not going to hold up too well for direct combustion. How did you come across the idea of using it as a piston coating on the top of the piston? www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/C-110/micro-slick-dry-film-lubricant-coating-air-cure. I'm thinking you may have wanted to use something different, say perhaps the C-186 or V-136 Piston top coat material. I just was researching it some myself and came across your video and hopefully it is not anything that you can't check into and fix before you have run your motor!!! Not trying to be a know it all, just a legit observation in regards to the difference in products for my own personal projects as well!
Hey, i used c-186 for the tops and c-110 for the skirts. All instructions are accurate, i just didnt mention using an oven to bake the pistons before coating. Instructions list this as an optional step.
Nice explanation. I like the format and length for an informational video.
Have you tore this engine down since this vid I am curious how they held up. I just started experimenting with this. I have been putting this stuff on everything. It crazy how well this paint bonds even with minimal to no prep.
Thank you so much for sharing this info, may I ask you how it was the efficiency till now and if that coating it is good for nitro ? Thanks
Hey, sorry guys, I've been doing a lot of stuff for the holidays, as well as working on a 94 honda civic with the d15 motor. I'm going to finish that project soon and ill post more videos. Gotta make $$$ to fund the build!
I just discovered your channel today and I have really enjoyed the Merc build videos. Can't wait for more!
This is a very interesting idea I've never thought of that we have a m104 2.8 that we plan to boost and quite possibly fit into a w210 e class thank you for putting this idea out here and giving great instructional video it's great to see mercedes cars being tuned more often as the engines are great just not built to be revved to 6500rpm we have more experience with the m111 in the UK as that's most common over here kompressor model anyway but there is a lot shared between these two engines
Hey, yeah im all about going the extra mile (or kilometer (lol)) to ensure the strong health of my engines. And yes, I plan to aim for a flat torque curve to combat the low rev limit. Ive considered adding a second set of mercedes genuine springs (smaller design, meant for another engine) to the valves to make the head better to rev to 7-7.5k but I havent pulled the trigger on that yet.
Mercedes has made some truely great engines though, 100%. I love my m104.
@@JakeSublime I absolutely agree with you there the main reason m111 and m104 rods break is sometimes people treat them like a BMW or Honda engine and rev the out or past 8000rpm which unless it's got forged rods in it the end result won't be very good but an m104 with double valve springs should be perfectly fine at a max rpm of 7500 with some cautious timing on the top end but great videos I might have ago at this in the future keep up the great work look forward to seeing more videos
I plan to do the same as you are doing, thank you very much for this detail how to tutorial and lead by example.
We were waiting for next step,bro...
Wait no longer
Did you ever tear your coated engine down after use? How did the coating stand up to use?
This is the big question
Can you please film the process of putting the engine back together ! That would be great!!!
Buckle up buddy
Checked up on this from cerakoat there are 2 different piston coatings one air dry and one oven dry and they are both the same price and both have same temp tolerances and durability? it is not recommended to oven dry the air dry product so which one you use is totally up to you. I would have to say buy the air dry because if the pistons are already on rods with pressfit pins then no need to have them separated. price I found was $35 for 4 oz
Thanks for the info.
came for the piston coating vid, stayed once i saw the 4 round headlights under the garage door
Bro, so glad to interest you!
Thats my w210 1997 e320 with m104 inline 6. Im turboing it to 450-500hp on stock internals. Check out my channel to watch the progress. Im close to having everything i need to finish the build. In fact, stuff is in the mail right now to complete the project.
U needed to clean the paint gun with acetone because inside the parts of the paint gun it's still coated with a little bit of residual assembly Lube.
When I spray I try to use a dust free environment . spraying in a garage With the door open is not advisable as dust and debris is likely to float around !
You need to drown the top of the pistons with acetone after you sand blast. You probably had some left over media on the tops. This is what cerakote recommends. You can also get a cheap tiny oven so you can "outgas" the pistons to also help in burning off any contaminants. Those contaminants will cause the ceramic to flake most likely.
I followed Cerakote's instructions, as their data sheet describes. The only thing i did not do was cook the pistons in an oven, as that was not required. Its likely best to bake the pistons first, however i do not have a shop oven.
I would check the directions to make sure using a plastic paint cup is acceptable.
so have anyone ranned the ceramic piston and then pulled it out after x amount of miles to see if it actually sticks to it and not just comes off
some time down the road i will check the pistons and see how well they held up. Theyre in the car though, its got 3500 miles on those painted pistons so far.
Good and helpful video! Do you have to sand blast the top of piston even if there are brand new? I guess yes but asking just in case. Thanks
Yes, it gives a rough surface for the ceramic to bond too. If the surface is new and shiny and smooth, the ceramic has no nooks and crannies to grab into.
@@JakeSublime Did you use #120 Grit Premium Brown Fused Aluminum Oxide for sand blasting correct? Did you clean your new spray gun before use it? All of them comes greasy!!
I used what i said in the video, it was some grit aluminum oxide. Its to spec with Cerakote's instructions.
And, ive used that blaster with soda and glass bead several times before, it was clean. If i had known that they come oily, i would have mentioned it in the video.
Wouldnt you want to coat down to at least top ring since its all exposed to combustion
What kind of engine control are you planning to use with this build?
Ill be using an MS2 most likely. Its possible ill go MS3 or something else with more research, but for now thats what my plan is.
Did it worth it?
Nice prep work! I love the coating and color! What was the hardener to base mix ratio for the cerakote?
Look up the product number, there was no hardener. Just shake and spray!
@@JakeSublime have you ever ceramic coated the exhaust ports?
Or the inside of the exhaust tubes?
@@FirstLast-tx3yj Nope, just what you see here. It would be cool to coat the inside of the exhaust/turbo manifold though. This would improve the life of the manifold, and improve exhaust gas velocity!
Maybe one day ill try this out.
Where can i buy that coating
Check google, find cerakote's website, and buy there. thats what i did
Where do you buy cerakote ?
Only on official website ?
Shipping to Europe is very expensive from them website ...
Yes thats where i purchased mine from. The best way to purchase from them if youre in Europe is through their Europe branch, i think. www.cerakote.com/europe
At the end of the day, if you spend $100 or $150 to coat your pistons, id still say its worth it in my opinion.
@@JakeSublime this is the same website, there is no european seller. Btw Thx for helping
I'd wear a respirator!
Dangerous to inhale any of it
Hello. If i cerakote pistons and chambers, do i need use colder spark plugs and do i need to cerakote bottom side of valve stem with valve face?
Great question. For my application, i still need to do some research on the best plugs to use. I may just use my original Ruthenium plugs, however.
Now, Im going to do my best to answer your question. I assume youre talking about ceramic coating the head side of the combustion chamber as well as the valves.
Firstly, make sure you know EXACTLY what youre doing, you dont want to accidentally ceramic coat something you dont mean to. And, i would 100% bake the head prior to coating it with ceramic, to off-gas anything in the head's pores.
Secondly, i wouldnt coat the back side of the valves, as i wouldnt want to cover the valves seat and then have to grind through the ceramic to reseat the valve. That goes for the head side, and the valve side, of the valve seating surfaces.
Lastly, in a circumstance where 98% of the surface area of the combustion chamber is lined with ceramic, i would certainly take in to consideration the increase in combustion temperatures. This would likely impact the performance of the ignition source, and possibly require an engine tune to adjust for the increase in combustion efficiency.
I sincerely hope this helps you. If you have more questions, or need clarification, just reply.
@@JakeSublime thanks, your answer explained everything)
WHERE IS YOUR RESPIRATOR ????
THESE ARE TINY CERAMIC PARTICLES THAT ARE NOW EMBEDDED IN YOUR LUNGS FOR LIFE !!!!!!!!
The imperfections just looks like dirt/dust
yeah, its what it looks like sadly.. The downside of doing this work in an extremely dry environment, in my garage.
However, it should still work. I have high confidence! haha hopefully not misplaced.
@@JakeSublime yeah dirt us usually fine just doesn't look the best. Good tip is to slightly mist the floor with water to keep dust down and if you have a drain I'd just do a quick once over with a hose
Fantastic tip, thankyou!
So I just stumbled across this today. I was reading the Cerakote instructions and it says it is for piston sideskirts, is a dry lubricant product, and only withstands up to 1200 F combustion so not going to hold up too well for direct combustion. How did you come across the idea of using it as a piston coating on the top of the piston? www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/C-110/micro-slick-dry-film-lubricant-coating-air-cure. I'm thinking you may have wanted to use something different, say perhaps the C-186 or V-136 Piston top coat material. I just was researching it some myself and came across your video and hopefully it is not anything that you can't check into and fix before you have run your motor!!! Not trying to be a know it all, just a legit observation in regards to the difference in products for my own personal projects as well!
Hey, i used c-186 for the tops and c-110 for the skirts. All instructions are accurate, i just didnt mention using an oven to bake the pistons before coating. Instructions list this as an optional step.
@@JakeSublime Very good, I skipped a little through the video so maybe I missed it, sorry about that!