I was able to pick up and excellent used X1D II for 5K less than X2D. Also got an used XCD 45mm P for less than 1K and an used XCD F3.2 90mm for less than 2K. This camera perfectly fits my needs and the image quality is second to none. It makes you slow down, compose, and back to the basics of photography. Where I started from long ago. No run and gun or drive by shooters will like this camera. Those who savor quality on multiple levels will love it. This camera just fills my niche needs.
Keith. 🙏👍 thanks for making such useful content. Great respect for you 🫡😇. Just one little thing I must say, I by you did nt mention studio portraits or product photography?
Thanks. My testing is relatively limited in some ways [one reason I very rarely do comparative reviews.] Studio portraiture [or wedding photography] is never likely to feature in any review of mine - I'm an architectural and industrial photographer - the only time I ever photograph people, they are working, wearing PPE or operating machinery :-) As to product photography - this particular test only had the one lens available - not one I'd really choose for product work?
I've used both this and the Fuji GFX 50s, if I had to choose I think I would pick the Fuji. I enjoy the Fuji ergonomics and I feel it's a better all around camera for less money.
Yes, this is very much a camera you'd choose because you like using it. I often look at stuff I review and think "If this and some others were gifted to me, how often would I actually take it out to use?"
I'm surprised that no one who is talking about this camera fails to mention that it can be shot in Pano mode to be like the overly expensive and rather old Hasselblad XPan Film Camera that goes for almost the same as the X1D ii. So effectively you have a digital 50mp sensor when cropped into the Pano mode dials it down to 25mp and it is far more reliable and over time less costly than the XPan which shoots film that is getting more and more expensive. Oh and the XPan is a Rangefinder camera where the X1D ii is through the lens. Perhaps you should try the XPan simulation in the X1D ii before taking it back to the store?
Hi Keith been watching a few videos on RUclips about the hasselblad, but really there is not a lot, Saw the new 28 mm that as just come out but not on the XD1 ll have the the Leica q and thinking of buying the xd1 ll mainly for the waterproof and this 28 is fantastic
Yes, it's a very nice camera to use. I only tested this one with the 30mm I tested the 23mm on the X1D a while ago [before I started doing videos to supplement the written stuff]
06:40 Good one :D That's my thing exactly.. I'm no pro photographer and i'm interested in getting into Hassies. The X system is way handier than the H, but the used market for X-fit lenses is not as populated and/or "cheap" as the H-fit one
Keith, I suppose with 100MP the pixels are packed much closer together on the same size sensor. Wouldn't this affect the quality of the 'light gathering' compared to the 50MP 'little sister'? Has anyone made a comparison between the 50 Vs the 100 in terms of noise, dynamic range, performance etc?
Yes to some extent, but the differences are easily lost in other changes. The place to look at this would be the camera reviews on DPReview and the pixels to photons web site, where such stuff is covered in extreme detail, with zillions of graphs. Just remember that with all this data, precision does not equate with accuracy and lots of data does not equate with meaning or relevance ;-) Lots of people have made comparisons, but as to what they really mean... YMMV ;-)
As a none-professional I more or less always buy used. I don't mind buying lenses new as they don't tend go out of date quickly, but even then used is usually far cheaper. My logic is I can get yesterday's best for the price of today's entry level. A couple of years ago I got a very lightly used Nikon D800 for about £500. New D850 would be around £2,500. It's far more capable than me, and you still see professionals using them every day. I'd have to be nuts to buy a D850. I did once see someone with a D850 and the cheapest full frame Nikon standard zoom money can buy. Crazy! I'd love a digital Leica M. Just waiting for a used one to come up in the right condition. Purely as a little treat for me. Definitely recommend used. I've always had a very good experience with Wex.
I read your review last night. I think this and the mark 1 make for a very compelling buy. The colors are quite the enigma , similar to Red Cinema. Would be curious to hear your interpretation on the colors when printing.
The colour rendition is interesting [and I do like it], but I'm not one for nuances of colour between lenses and sensors. I hear people's comments but I often just don't see it very strongly. Perhaps I'm still looking for obvious Kodachrome/Velvia type differences ;-) Or it could be related to my raw file processing choices Thanks for reminding me of this whilst the camera is still here! Time to fire up a few more raw converters...
@@KeithCooper I have yet to find any comprehensive or compelling tutorials on raw processing. I think it’s a field which is far more nuanced than any of us realize . What the world needs is something akin to Davinci Resolve for stills , but that’s only half the problem. The other problem I see is the lack of knowledge and teachings. It’s a dark art and the “touch to taste” slider approach just feels so lacking. I think that people such as yourself with a background in printing are better wired for this stuff because you have both the subjective and objective context necessary. I’ve poured over discussions of film emulation and that’s just next level stuff. Unfortunately, nobody has been able to answer what makes Provia, Velvia, etc so magical. I believe this is one possible application of AI - reverse engineering old film spectral or tonal responses . Maybe we just need a modern version of tricolour (one shot cameras ). As an analogue, I would liken raw and photo processing to mastering audio - it’s a dark art.
One reason there is a shortage of information seems to be the proprietary nature of a lot of it. If you read about some of the open source developments, there is often a lot of significant information missing about exactly what goes on in getting data from photo sites into a raw file - the camera makers ensure quite a bit of reverse engineering is required ;-) I'm expecting to see some significant developments in machine learning based approaches to de-mosaicing appearing in converters for camera files. Should be enough to ignite some good spats on forums over what is 'real' ;-) It's one reason I also keep an eye on image processing in phones - the phone makers have more R&D money... Oh, and one admission - I've never liked the look of Velvia. Heresy I know... I'll get my coat ;-)
@@KeithCooper Thanks. I heard (read on a forum) camera companies keep white balance information a secret (ironically this was a Hasselblad color science discussion). It makes sense in a way, but if there's any truth to this it will really upend the entire notion of "raw is raw" floating around on forums. I suppose it's something similar to the Coke recipe or those lucious Leica colors (let's pour gasoline on this while we're at it). TBH I have fallen out of love with Velvia and instead learned to appreciate Provia. I feel like a guy who went from hip hop to jazz. However, what I would love to have is a digital recreation of Kodak TXP 320. Or better yet - what about what never made it to market? Steve Yedlin has some interesting insights on the matter. if you statement about Velvia is heresy then let me the first to state I allways thought HP5 looked like garbage. Have a great weekend and thank you so much for your insightful videos and awesome replies!
I like portraiture, in interesting locations, cityscapes, and also indoors, bedrooms, hotel rooms etc. Nighttime, atmospheric... Do you think this X1D II would be suitable? I do love that velvety image quality... 🤔
Yes the image quality is excellent. It's a camera I found easy to use, but I'm shooting relatively static subjects. Another issue might be the range of lenses, but if there is something which covers what you want, it will perform well. Personally I'd go for a GFX50 version, since it's the same sensor and feels more like the cameras I've used professionally for years.
Thanks - A lot depends on your definition of 'fall apart' ;-) I generally avoid such detailed testing with camera, since it's done far more rigorously by others... I used it up to 3200 quite happily, but 'better' shots I kept to 400 and below. Some 6400 ones responded very well to processing with DxO, which I will use for it's excellent noise handling. The place to look would be somewhere like DPReview where they do 'proper' testing - the files did not seem different in any meaningful way to the X1D files which I believe are listed?
I hope one day to watch one of your videos and hear you say "I decided to buy the more expensive camera because I just enjoy using it." We all know you'll buy the Fuji not the Hasselblad because it's what you do. You buy the practical shoes. You spend the vast majority of your life working. There comes a time when you should be good to yourself and buy the tools that feel good in your hands and are a joy to use.
Maybe, but part of my enjoying using something comes from choosing the right tools for the job, for me, whether that's a paying one or just for fun. If it's more expensive then so be it - the criteria don't change with the label on the front. Is it wrong to buy shoes that are comfortable and last? ;-)
If a leaf shutter matters, this is a definite bonus, but I'd say the number of people it's genuinely important to is limited. As to the colours, yes, I like the Hasselblad colour, but I'd be just as happy, for the sorts of images I take, with the Fuji. Once again, it depends massively on what you want to do (one reason I emphasise this in the main [written] review) But yes, used, they can be a great choice if the right camera for you...
Let me say, as someone who's lugged a Fuji GFX50S around the world for a year (2019) and now an owner of the first Hasselblad, I so wish I'd had the Hassy back then! The price difference at the time sent me to Fuji, and I love their APSC cameras but hated the GFX. My second hand little Hasselblad still has some glitches but I love it. The colour science is top notch.
I am thinking of upgrading my canon 700d to Fujifilm XT 5. I do a lot of landscaping and old churches, castles in my local area. But at the price £ … maybe one day?
Does weight make an ounce of difference to the final printed image quality? Eg same image on Gloss 240 paper and on Gloss 320 paper - framed and seen at a reasonable viewing distance. If there is no significant difference, why not use the cheapest (say) gloss paper? No need to worry about archivability, simply reprint when it gets old/yellows. I am basing this as a hobbyist photographer/printer - not a seller of prints where a single, unique print has (perceived) value.
Depends partly on size of the print - at four foot square, a thicker paper is easier to handle. For gloss papers, probably not a lot of difference - you just need to pay more attention to what's behind the print in the frame. For art papers, they naturally tend to be thicker, but yes a perception of weight=quality is not one paper marketing would wish to dispel ;-)
Ah yes, good point about handling larger prints where weight/sturdiness could play a part. When I do show people my A3+ prints, I leave the photo inside the card box it comes in - stops them handling the print with their dirty fingers and stops them bending the print.
I got the Fuji 50s in 2017 when the X1D was being launched. The sensors were the same size and the Fuji was much cheaper. It was a good camera. The next one was a Fuji 100, and although it is stabilized and that is important for some people, it is not a must for me. I was never fully happy with the definition of the lenses in the new sensor nor the color rendering. Now I use a Leica S2, much older, just 37 MP, but excellent definition and color, and I invested a major amount of savings and the Fuji in a friend’s Phase One. This is almost as complex to use as a 4x5 but it’s worth it when you need very large sizes. Otherwise the 37 Mp is large enough and both have excellent definition and neutral, accurate color. For anything else I work with a Leica M9 which is light and portable and looks innocent. Buying second hand is a sensible option and saves a lot of money. .
Yes, with the rate of technical advances levelling off, things retain their usefulness much longer. Bit of a moot point though since I couldn't afford any of them at the moment...
@@KeithCooper The Leica S2 or the 006/007 can be found very cheap. The S2 and 006 have a CCD kodak sensor (as you probably know they corrode) so it is a good thing to check that the sensor was changed. The 007 is CMOS. The S lenses are superb, and not that expensive because nobody is interested in them; but Mamiya 6x4.5 lenses work with an adapter and can be found at ridiculous prices. There is even a shift one.
Thanks, but very cheap still doesn't count I'm afraid - I have lots of serviceable equipment for work and the 'new stuff' budget is firmly at zero - i.e. it needs a firm business justification.
@@KeithCooper I fully understand. I don’t think I need anything else anymore. and not always my spending has been wise, or justified with a real and pressing work need. I apologize:-)
Absolutely no apology needed! I'm really grateful to get to test all the stuff I do get. Going out with any new [to me] camera is a bonus. That and I wouldn't have started making the YT videos unless someone from Canon had convinced me to have a go!
For my day to day [commercial] work, a Canon 5Ds. Lenses most used TS-E17 & 24, 24-70 2.8L 70-200 F2,8L IS 8-15 fisheye Quite a few others used as needed
@@KeithCooper Hi Keith, thanks for the prompt reply. Could you please tell me if you use any of the Hasselblad mirrorless system? Which of your lenses that you most use would you recommend for a beginner to architecture photography? Do you recommend the Hasselblad X series cameras and lenses for architecture photography? Cheers, Scott
Nope - I cannot justify the cost of the Hasselblad stuff - nor for that matter could I remotely afford it if I could :-( But more importantly, the X system doesn't have any tilt shift lenses - a show stopper for me for architectural work. TS-E24 is the lens - just learn to use it correctly ;-) www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-ts-e-24mm-3-5l-ii-review/ See here for what Hasselblad can do in this area if you have the money www.northlight-images.co.uk/hasselblad-h6d-50c-and-hts-adapter/
I already had the 2D and wanted a cheap second body, so bought a used 1D II. I found it unusable by comparison. Fortunately the store took it back and I bought a 2D.
Definitions of unusable do vary widely, and depend a lot on what you want to do ;-) It's the lens choice which most affects my own work, but I still reckon the X1D mk2 is not a bad camera - YMMV ;-)
@@KeithCooper I'm upgrading my Nikon F-system to 45 Mpix then I will get a Fuji for landscape and hopefully there will be a TS lens released. Not sure yet on getting a 60 Mpix Nikon Z8, that money is better spend on a used/2nd hand Fuji camera due to the sensor size and a better useful aperture range..
Currently the only tilt/shift 'solution 'is the HTS 1.5 T/S adapter [with a suitable adapter to fit the X1D/2D H6D 50C with HTS tilt/shift adapter www.northlight-images.co.uk/hasselblad-h6d-50c-and-hts-adapter/ H6d 100C with HTS tilt/shift adapter [video] www.northlight-images.co.uk/video-hasselblad-hts-h6d-tilt-shift/
X camera leaf shutters if not really quite, have imo less vibrations that focal plane shutters and associated with the high camera inertia (concentrated weight) I have less problems at low shutter speeds as with my FF reflex cameras.
@@KeithCooper I can wait. I will get three more lenses to my Nikon, an used 19mmPC?, AFS70-200mmF2.8 E VR and a an used AFS 400mmF2.8 G VR .Then an used D850 so it will take me 3-5 year. I think there is a Fuji TS lens in the pipeline, you talked about that in one of your videos. Is a price issue also if Fuji TS cost is high then I use the Nikon lenses for the PC/TS photos. I'm an amateur so lenses and cameras is not an investment.
Hello Keith, your reviews are exellent. I am ready to begin a greetings card business with a twist. I do intend to use photographs as well as verse(obviously). I am a complete novice when it comes to camera and a printer. The finished cards I want to look professional and I need to produce quite a few cards. Any suggestions before I starts spending money I don't have? Thanks
Yes - properly work out the business side, costs etc. first. As a 'complete novice', asking about cameras and printers is putting the cart miles before the horse... There is no way I could hazard the slightest guess as to what would be suitable I'm afraid ;-)
If there's one person I trust to give a no bullsh*t review of a MF camera, it's you. 🙂
Thanks - that's appreciated!
I was able to pick up and excellent used X1D II for 5K less than X2D. Also got an used XCD 45mm P for less than 1K and an used XCD F3.2 90mm for less than 2K. This camera perfectly fits my needs and the image quality is second to none. It makes you slow down, compose, and back to the basics of photography. Where I started from long ago. No run and gun or drive by shooters will like this camera. Those who savor quality on multiple levels will love it. This camera just fills my niche needs.
Yes - very nice to use.
That and 'used' saves a lot
Outstanding review and beautiful images. I'm so glad I found your channel.
Thanks!
Very professorial quality to your review and it's much appreciated. Lovely images as well.
Thanks - still a very nice camera to use.
Keith. 🙏👍 thanks for making such useful content. Great respect for you 🫡😇. Just one little thing I must say, I by you did nt mention studio portraits or product photography?
Thanks. My testing is relatively limited in some ways [one reason I very rarely do comparative reviews.]
Studio portraiture [or wedding photography] is never likely to feature in any review of mine - I'm an architectural and industrial photographer - the only time I ever photograph people, they are working, wearing PPE or operating machinery :-)
As to product photography - this particular test only had the one lens available - not one I'd really choose for product work?
I've used both this and the Fuji GFX 50s, if I had to choose I think I would pick the Fuji. I enjoy the Fuji ergonomics and I feel it's a better all around camera for less money.
Yes, this is very much a camera you'd choose because you like using it.
I often look at stuff I review and think "If this and some others were gifted to me, how often would I actually take it out to use?"
I'm surprised that no one who is talking about this camera fails to mention that it can be shot in Pano mode to be like the overly expensive and rather old Hasselblad XPan Film Camera that goes for almost the same as the X1D ii. So effectively you have a digital 50mp sensor when cropped into the Pano mode dials it down to 25mp and it is far more reliable and over time less costly than the XPan which shoots film that is getting more and more expensive. Oh and the XPan is a Rangefinder camera where the X1D ii is through the lens.
Perhaps you should try the XPan simulation in the X1D ii before taking it back to the store?
Indeed, a function I'd forgotten about.
However, a function fulfilled by the crop tool in Photoshop for myself ;-)
Hi Keith been watching a few videos on RUclips about the hasselblad, but really there is not a lot, Saw the new 28 mm that as just come out but not on the XD1 ll have the the Leica q and thinking of buying the xd1 ll mainly for the waterproof and this 28 is fantastic
Yes, it's a very nice camera to use. I only tested this one with the 30mm
I tested the 23mm on the X1D a while ago [before I started doing videos to supplement the written stuff]
06:40 Good one :D That's my thing exactly.. I'm no pro photographer and i'm interested in getting into Hassies. The X system is way handier than the H, but the used market for X-fit lenses is not as populated and/or "cheap" as the H-fit one
Thanks
It's a very nice camera to use and the images are of very good quality. 50MP on a sensor that size is very amenable to making big prints.
Keith, I suppose with 100MP the pixels are packed much closer together on the same size sensor. Wouldn't this affect the quality of the 'light gathering' compared to the 50MP 'little sister'? Has anyone made a comparison between the 50 Vs the 100 in terms of noise, dynamic range, performance etc?
Yes to some extent, but the differences are easily lost in other changes.
The place to look at this would be the camera reviews on DPReview and the pixels to photons web site, where such stuff is covered in extreme detail, with zillions of graphs.
Just remember that with all this data, precision does not equate with accuracy and lots of data does not equate with meaning or relevance ;-)
Lots of people have made comparisons, but as to what they really mean... YMMV ;-)
As a none-professional I more or less always buy used. I don't mind buying lenses new as they don't tend go out of date quickly, but even then used is usually far cheaper. My logic is I can get yesterday's best for the price of today's entry level. A couple of years ago I got a very lightly used Nikon D800 for about £500. New D850 would be around £2,500. It's far more capable than me, and you still see professionals using them every day. I'd have to be nuts to buy a D850. I did once see someone with a D850 and the cheapest full frame Nikon standard zoom money can buy. Crazy!
I'd love a digital Leica M. Just waiting for a used one to come up in the right condition. Purely as a little treat for me.
Definitely recommend used. I've always had a very good experience with Wex.
Yes - my first tilt/shift lenses were all purchased used!
I read your review last night. I think this and the mark 1 make for a very compelling buy. The colors are quite the enigma , similar to Red Cinema. Would be curious to hear your interpretation on the colors when printing.
The colour rendition is interesting [and I do like it], but I'm not one for nuances of colour between lenses and sensors. I hear people's comments but I often just don't see it very strongly.
Perhaps I'm still looking for obvious Kodachrome/Velvia type differences ;-) Or it could be related to my raw file processing choices
Thanks for reminding me of this whilst the camera is still here!
Time to fire up a few more raw converters...
@@KeithCooper I have yet to find any comprehensive or compelling tutorials on raw processing. I think it’s a field which is far more nuanced than any of us realize . What the world needs is something akin to Davinci Resolve for stills , but that’s only half the problem. The other problem I see is the lack of knowledge and teachings. It’s a dark art and the “touch to taste” slider approach just feels so lacking. I think that people such as yourself with a background in printing are better wired for this stuff because you have both the subjective and objective context necessary. I’ve poured over discussions of film emulation and that’s just next level stuff. Unfortunately, nobody has been able to answer what makes Provia, Velvia, etc so magical. I believe this is one possible application of AI - reverse engineering old film spectral or tonal responses . Maybe we just need a modern version of tricolour (one shot cameras ). As an analogue, I would liken raw and photo processing to mastering audio - it’s a dark art.
One reason there is a shortage of information seems to be the proprietary nature of a lot of it. If you read about some of the open source developments, there is often a lot of significant information missing about exactly what goes on in getting data from photo sites into a raw file - the camera makers ensure quite a bit of reverse engineering is required ;-)
I'm expecting to see some significant developments in machine learning based approaches to de-mosaicing appearing in converters for camera files.
Should be enough to ignite some good spats on forums over what is 'real' ;-) It's one reason I also keep an eye on image processing in phones - the phone makers have more R&D money...
Oh, and one admission - I've never liked the look of Velvia.
Heresy I know... I'll get my coat ;-)
@@KeithCooper Thanks. I heard (read on a forum) camera companies keep white balance information a secret (ironically this was a Hasselblad color science discussion). It makes sense in a way, but if there's any truth to this it will really upend the entire notion of "raw is raw" floating around on forums. I suppose it's something similar to the Coke recipe or those lucious Leica colors (let's pour gasoline on this while we're at it). TBH I have fallen out of love with Velvia and instead learned to appreciate Provia. I feel like a guy who went from hip hop to jazz. However, what I would love to have is a digital recreation of Kodak TXP 320. Or better yet - what about what never made it to market? Steve Yedlin has some interesting insights on the matter. if you statement about Velvia is heresy then let me the first to state I allways thought HP5 looked like garbage. Have a great weekend and thank you so much for your insightful videos and awesome replies!
I like portraiture, in interesting locations, cityscapes, and also indoors, bedrooms, hotel rooms etc. Nighttime, atmospheric... Do you think this X1D II would be suitable? I do love that velvety image quality... 🤔
Yes the image quality is excellent.
It's a camera I found easy to use, but I'm shooting relatively static subjects.
Another issue might be the range of lenses, but if there is something which covers what you want, it will perform well.
Personally I'd go for a GFX50 version, since it's the same sensor and feels more like the cameras I've used professionally for years.
I’ll like to see a print from the Hasselblad. What paper would you recommend for a BW
Ah - that depends on the image and the printer. Personally, for larger prints it tends to be a baryta or fine art paper.
Thank you, nice review, enjoyed a lot.
Thanks - time to see if I can borrow an X2D 100C to try as well!
@@KeithCoopergood luck!
Do the X2D next!
I'll need to have a word with Hasselblad about that one... ;-)
Thank You for the good review on the Hassy ! What would the max ISO that this camera can go with before the image starts to fall apart ?
Thanks - A lot depends on your definition of 'fall apart' ;-) I generally avoid such detailed testing with camera, since it's done far more rigorously by others...
I used it up to 3200 quite happily, but 'better' shots I kept to 400 and below.
Some 6400 ones responded very well to processing with DxO, which I will use for it's excellent noise handling.
The place to look would be somewhere like DPReview where they do 'proper' testing - the files did not seem different in any meaningful way to the X1D files which I believe are listed?
I hope one day to watch one of your videos and hear you say "I decided to buy the more expensive camera because I just enjoy using it." We all know you'll buy the Fuji not the Hasselblad because it's what you do. You buy the practical shoes. You spend the vast majority of your life working. There comes a time when you should be good to yourself and buy the tools that feel good in your hands and are a joy to use.
Maybe, but part of my enjoying using something comes from choosing the right tools for the job, for me, whether that's a paying one or just for fun.
If it's more expensive then so be it - the criteria don't change with the label on the front.
Is it wrong to buy shoes that are comfortable and last? ;-)
Both X1D cameras are fantastic value these days. The leaf shutter and colours set it apart from the GFX.
If a leaf shutter matters, this is a definite bonus, but I'd say the number of people it's genuinely important to is limited.
As to the colours, yes, I like the Hasselblad colour, but I'd be just as happy, for the sorts of images I take, with the Fuji.
Once again, it depends massively on what you want to do (one reason I emphasise this in the main [written] review)
But yes, used, they can be a great choice if the right camera for you...
Another interesting used camera to compare is the Leica S typ 007
@@SteveAshdown Indeed - if I can get someone to lend me one...
I can't afford to buy stuff for this testing.
Let me say, as someone who's lugged a Fuji GFX50S around the world for a year (2019) and now an owner of the first Hasselblad, I so wish I'd had the Hassy back then! The price difference at the time sent me to Fuji, and I love their APSC cameras but hated the GFX. My second hand little Hasselblad still has some glitches but I love it. The colour science is top notch.
I am thinking of upgrading my canon 700d to Fujifilm XT 5.
I do a lot of landscaping and old churches, castles in my local area.
But at the price £ … maybe one day?
For those subjects I'd get a Fuji MF body and an adapter for a Canon TS-E17 or 24 - or possibly use the Laowa 15/20 shift lenses.
Apreciate the article
Thanks
Does weight make an ounce of difference to the final printed image quality? Eg same image on Gloss 240 paper and on Gloss 320 paper - framed and seen at a reasonable viewing distance. If there is no significant difference, why not use the cheapest (say) gloss paper? No need to worry about archivability, simply reprint when it gets old/yellows. I am basing this as a hobbyist photographer/printer - not a seller of prints where a single, unique print has (perceived) value.
Depends partly on size of the print - at four foot square, a thicker paper is easier to handle.
For gloss papers, probably not a lot of difference - you just need to pay more attention to what's behind the print in the frame.
For art papers, they naturally tend to be thicker, but yes a perception of weight=quality is not one paper marketing would wish to dispel ;-)
Ah yes, good point about handling larger prints where weight/sturdiness could play a part. When I do show people my A3+ prints, I leave the photo inside the card box it comes in - stops them handling the print with their dirty fingers and stops them bending the print.
I got the Fuji 50s in 2017 when the X1D was being launched. The sensors were the same size and the Fuji was much cheaper. It was a good camera. The next one was a Fuji 100, and although it is stabilized and that is important for some people, it is not a must for me. I was never fully happy with the definition of the lenses in the new sensor nor the color rendering. Now I use a Leica S2, much older, just 37 MP, but excellent definition and color, and I invested a major amount of savings and the Fuji in a friend’s Phase One. This is almost as complex to use as a 4x5 but it’s worth it when you need very large sizes. Otherwise the 37 Mp is large enough and both have excellent definition and neutral, accurate color. For anything else I work with a Leica M9 which is light and portable and looks innocent. Buying second hand is a sensible option and saves a lot of money. .
Yes, with the rate of technical advances levelling off, things retain their usefulness much longer.
Bit of a moot point though since I couldn't afford any of them at the moment...
@@KeithCooper The Leica S2 or the 006/007 can be found very cheap. The S2 and 006 have a CCD kodak sensor (as you probably know they corrode) so it is a good thing to check that the sensor was changed. The 007 is CMOS. The S lenses are superb, and not that expensive because nobody is interested in them; but Mamiya 6x4.5 lenses work with an adapter and can be found at ridiculous prices. There is even a shift one.
Thanks, but very cheap still doesn't count I'm afraid - I have lots of serviceable equipment for work and the 'new stuff' budget is firmly at zero - i.e. it needs a firm business justification.
@@KeithCooper I fully understand. I don’t think I need anything else anymore. and not always my spending has been wise, or justified with a real and pressing work need. I apologize:-)
Absolutely no apology needed! I'm really grateful to get to test all the stuff I do get. Going out with any new [to me] camera is a bonus.
That and I wouldn't have started making the YT videos unless someone from Canon had convinced me to have a go!
Hi Keith, could you please tell me which camera and lenses you use?
For my day to day [commercial] work, a Canon 5Ds.
Lenses most used TS-E17 & 24, 24-70 2.8L 70-200 F2,8L IS 8-15 fisheye
Quite a few others used as needed
@@KeithCooper Hi Keith, thanks for the prompt reply. Could you please tell me if you use any of the Hasselblad mirrorless system? Which of your lenses that you most use would you recommend for a beginner to architecture photography? Do you recommend the Hasselblad X series cameras and lenses for architecture photography? Cheers, Scott
Nope - I cannot justify the cost of the Hasselblad stuff - nor for that matter could I remotely afford it if I could :-(
But more importantly, the X system doesn't have any tilt shift lenses - a show stopper for me for architectural work.
TS-E24 is the lens - just learn to use it correctly ;-)
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-ts-e-24mm-3-5l-ii-review/
See here for what Hasselblad can do in this area if you have the money
www.northlight-images.co.uk/hasselblad-h6d-50c-and-hts-adapter/
I already had the 2D and wanted a cheap second body, so bought a used 1D II. I found it unusable by comparison. Fortunately the store took it back and I bought a 2D.
Definitions of unusable do vary widely, and depend a lot on what you want to do ;-)
It's the lens choice which most affects my own work, but I still reckon the X1D mk2 is not a bad camera - YMMV ;-)
NO TS lenses so I waiting for a used Fuji GFX50SII or a 100S
Yes, that would be my choice...
Not that I didn't like the X1S II 50C, just I want more flexibility.
@@KeithCooper I'm upgrading my Nikon F-system to 45 Mpix then I will get a Fuji for landscape and hopefully there will be a TS lens released. Not sure yet on getting a 60 Mpix Nikon Z8, that money is better spend on a used/2nd hand Fuji camera due to the sensor size and a better useful aperture range..
Currently the only tilt/shift 'solution 'is the HTS 1.5 T/S adapter [with a suitable adapter to fit the X1D/2D
H6D 50C with HTS tilt/shift adapter
www.northlight-images.co.uk/hasselblad-h6d-50c-and-hts-adapter/
H6d 100C with HTS tilt/shift adapter [video]
www.northlight-images.co.uk/video-hasselblad-hts-h6d-tilt-shift/
X camera leaf shutters if not really quite, have imo less vibrations that focal plane shutters and associated with the high camera inertia (concentrated weight) I have less problems at low shutter speeds as with my FF reflex cameras.
@@KeithCooper I can wait. I will get three more lenses to my Nikon, an used 19mmPC?, AFS70-200mmF2.8 E VR and a an used AFS 400mmF2.8 G VR .Then an used D850 so it will take me 3-5 year. I think there is a Fuji TS lens in the pipeline, you talked about that in one of your videos. Is a price issue also if Fuji TS cost is high then I use the Nikon lenses for the PC/TS photos. I'm an amateur so lenses and cameras is not an investment.
Hello Keith, your reviews are exellent. I am ready to begin a greetings card business with a twist. I do intend to use photographs as well as verse(obviously). I am a complete novice when it comes to camera and a printer. The finished cards I want to look professional and I need to produce quite a few cards. Any suggestions before I starts spending money I don't have? Thanks
Yes - properly work out the business side, costs etc. first.
As a 'complete novice', asking about cameras and printers is putting the cart miles before the horse... There is no way I could hazard the slightest guess as to what would be suitable I'm afraid ;-)