Pretty neat to hear and glad to hear a personal anecdote validated by a GOAT. I noticed my rate of improvement went up substantially when I abandoned my personal standard of what was hard/doable because it was so far under what I was actually capable of.
The approach magnus takes resonates, I've been trying allsorts over the last few years listening and watching the various training videos. However a new gym 5mins from gome has opened up and it's simple, straight forward problems, no circuits no equipment and the only to improve is to try harder. I've also been listening to the philosophy of Mike mensor and stripping back the training to a few simple but effective exercises to supplement the trying harder approach with sufficient rest. I feel even after a few sessions at 43yrs is already having benefit, thanks to magus for affirming this basic but straight forward principle..just try harder each time. For the past 20yrs I've played to my strengths..no longer, its weird how sometimes the simplist insight can have the biggest impact. Thanks nugget climbing and magnus.
I think the lesson is there are no shortcuts. People think getting on a complex training program will make them strong faster but the reality is that either way you are going to have to continually try hard. That is the one constant. I personally don't like programs because they complicate my training and schedule to the point that it demotivates me so I just use self-assessment and intuition to identify my strengths and weaknesses and rely on a mental database of exercises I can go to to address each. But that said training programs definitely have their place for many people who may need the motivation or structure to train regularly. Additionally, benchmarking yourself in a somewhat scientific method for specific muscle groups or exercises can be very useful and interesting beyond a proprioceptive self-assessment.
Really cool hearing Magnus' take on this! I was lucky enough to just get back from a trip to Norway and France and getting to check out the Oslo Klatresenter was awesome, the gym is so big and nice. My flight landed in Oslo from NYC at 8:30am and I couldn't check in to my hostel until 3pm so of course I went straight to the gym from the airport! haha Sadly I didn't get to encounter a wild Magnus but I did have an absolute blast, that place is so nice and it was very strange as I had just watched the crack videos he did with Pete and I looked over and was like "Oh wow that's where they set it!" and was even more impressed at how insane that route must have been. I can't remember has name unfortunately but shout out to the Canadian guy who works there! Everyone was amazing but we talked for probably a couple hours that day and he happened to be on the same train as me and helped me figure out how to get to where I needed to go which was really cool of him. I'd planned this trip for several years but after I started climbing I decided to visit Fontainebleau while I was in Europe and it's genuinely all because of Magnus inspiring me to want to climb, I can never thank him enough for that!
The real number one trait: Started young. Edit: I also forgot be insanely lean. Like a level of lean that most people cannot maintain genetically. And have insanely strong fingers, like a level of finger strength that most humans cannot attain genetically.
Magnus just straight up telling us 6 second weighted hangs is how he got strong is really telling of how much bullshit the climbing community can come up with really. Calisthenics and hangboarding really is what you NEED to do to succeed.
Individual variance tends to be fairly massive in sports. Very simple hangboarding and calisthenics seems to work well for him, but that doesn't mean that someone else would respond to that equally. The key takeaway from this interview is I think: trying hard is important. If fancy complicated drills keep you trying hard, do that. If just climbing and simple calisthenics with some hangboarding works, then do that.
I think he actually means any injury that would force him to stop climbing, even for only a few days. I remember he had some distal biceps tendonitis in one video, but it didn't seem severe enough to stop him from climbing or reduce his ability. He seemed super concerned in that vid, as if it was the first time that's ever happened to him :D I think several of the most elite climbers these days, (Adam, Stefano, Jakob, Daniel, Shawn, Seb) are known for getting injured rarely if ever, they also started climbing at a pretty young age, extremely young in some cases like Adam, Shawn and Alex who all started before the age of ten. Their tendons grew naturally with the increasing forces they faced on the wall. This might make a difference compared to the vast majority of climbers who either start or get serious about climbing when their bodies are already fully developed.
I do agree you have to try really hard and want it, but climbing is becoming so competitive that a plan is needed. I don’t think he realizes how much training and planned training the youth climbers are getting now. I don’t think you need a good training plan to become good at climbing, but to be the best at competitive climbing you need a plan now.
It really wasn't that long ago that he was making world cup finals, and he trained along side the best in the world. Some of those people (like Jacob Schubert) are still the best in the world. I'm pretty sure he knows what's involved.
@@michaelmccluskey2044 I’m talking about current day competitive climbing. There was never a combined format of lead and bouldering in competition. The hold variations and movements are way different and require a much larger portfolio that can only be hit with a training plan. All these skills and new format can’t be hit with just climbing at random and trying really hard.
@@Lu_Thor I’m not really debating what the best training strategy is, just pointing out that Magnus would be fully aware of what the top competitors do for training. On a broader point, it’s all very well to talk about what the youth climbers are doing, but they’re not the best in the world yet. It remains to be seen whether their approaches are more effective than the current top climbers.
@@michaelmccluskey2044 He hasnt placed top 5 at a IFSC event in 10 years, and he was never at the real top of competition climbing were he was consistently making top3 placements (well maybe as a youth). I think oh.1697 comment is valid, you cannot be a winning contender today without proper training plan. Just look at something like Ondras programs when preparing for the olympics, the level of min/maxing is insane. But Magnus also have a point here, if you look at the top outdoors climbers today, a lot of them are no longer at the top of the competition game, they ofc probably still train alot, but most of them just seem to focus on climbing a lot, and climbing hard. But Im pretty sure non of them train as much as they did when competing. But he is downplaying his training a lot here, I've seen in multiple appearances he discussing his training routine while competing, and its nothing like what he describes here.
![Mariah Carey - We Belong Together [American Music Awards 50th Anniversary Special]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UnO2m2BEXDU/mqdefault.jpg)
I didn’t expect that eye thing magnus did, kinda tripped me out😅
Time?
@@Zevismaxedakuma 3:44
It's an editing trick though, he can't really do that 😉
Man, Magnus is amazing. I like how laid back he is :)
we meet again
Pretty neat to hear and glad to hear a personal anecdote validated by a GOAT. I noticed my rate of improvement went up substantially when I abandoned my personal standard of what was hard/doable because it was so far under what I was actually capable of.
No where near goat
The approach magnus takes resonates, I've been trying allsorts over the last few years listening and watching the various training videos. However a new gym 5mins from gome has opened up and it's simple, straight forward problems, no circuits no equipment and the only to improve is to try harder. I've also been listening to the philosophy of Mike mensor and stripping back the training to a few simple but effective exercises to supplement the trying harder approach with sufficient rest. I feel even after a few sessions at 43yrs is already having benefit, thanks to magus for affirming this basic but straight forward principle..just try harder each time. For the past 20yrs I've played to my strengths..no longer, its weird how sometimes the simplist insight can have the biggest impact.
Thanks nugget climbing and magnus.
I think the lesson is there are no shortcuts. People think getting on a complex training program will make them strong faster but the reality is that either way you are going to have to continually try hard. That is the one constant. I personally don't like programs because they complicate my training and schedule to the point that it demotivates me so I just use self-assessment and intuition to identify my strengths and weaknesses and rely on a mental database of exercises I can go to to address each. But that said training programs definitely have their place for many people who may need the motivation or structure to train regularly. Additionally, benchmarking yourself in a somewhat scientific method for specific muscle groups or exercises can be very useful and interesting beyond a proprioceptive self-assessment.
Really cool hearing Magnus' take on this! I was lucky enough to just get back from a trip to Norway and France and getting to check out the Oslo Klatresenter was awesome, the gym is so big and nice. My flight landed in Oslo from NYC at 8:30am and I couldn't check in to my hostel until 3pm so of course I went straight to the gym from the airport! haha Sadly I didn't get to encounter a wild Magnus but I did have an absolute blast, that place is so nice and it was very strange as I had just watched the crack videos he did with Pete and I looked over and was like "Oh wow that's where they set it!" and was even more impressed at how insane that route must have been. I can't remember has name unfortunately but shout out to the Canadian guy who works there! Everyone was amazing but we talked for probably a couple hours that day and he happened to be on the same train as me and helped me figure out how to get to where I needed to go which was really cool of him. I'd planned this trip for several years but after I started climbing I decided to visit Fontainebleau while I was in Europe and it's genuinely all because of Magnus inspiring me to want to climb, I can never thank him enough for that!
The real number one trait: Started young.
Edit: I also forgot be insanely lean. Like a level of lean that most people cannot maintain genetically. And have insanely strong fingers, like a level of finger strength that most humans cannot attain genetically.
There are execptions though...Alexey Rubtsov started in his late teens and was among the best in the world within a couple of years.
That's a copout.
@@michaelmccluskey2044 There are always exceptions.
Magnus should team up with Emil for an 8C outdoors🤞
The number of ads being inserted is destroying RUclips. Totally wrecks the enjoyment of content!
His words say: just for the videos.
But his smile says: two V-grades harder, bro.
Magnus just straight up telling us 6 second weighted hangs is how he got strong is really telling of how much bullshit the climbing community can come up with really. Calisthenics and hangboarding really is what you NEED to do to succeed.
Individual variance tends to be fairly massive in sports. Very simple hangboarding and calisthenics seems to work well for him, but that doesn't mean that someone else would respond to that equally.
The key takeaway from this interview is I think: trying hard is important. If fancy complicated drills keep you trying hard, do that. If just climbing and simple calisthenics with some hangboarding works, then do that.
When I hear people like magus say they’ve never had an injury, does that mean he’s never even had a tweak? If so, that’s mind blowing to me
I think he actually means any injury that would force him to stop climbing, even for only a few days. I remember he had some distal biceps tendonitis in one video, but it didn't seem severe enough to stop him from climbing or reduce his ability. He seemed super concerned in that vid, as if it was the first time that's ever happened to him :D I think several of the most elite climbers these days, (Adam, Stefano, Jakob, Daniel, Shawn, Seb) are known for getting injured rarely if ever, they also started climbing at a pretty young age, extremely young in some cases like Adam, Shawn and Alex who all started before the age of ten. Their tendons grew naturally with the increasing forces they faced on the wall. This might make a difference compared to the vast majority of climbers who either start or get serious about climbing when their bodies are already fully developed.
I did not climb 5.13 /8a until I was 35 and still there 30 years later...no injuries.
Maybe Magnus should set a goal for a 9A boulder, I think the challenge would motivate him a lot to improve again.
trait number 1 -be strong as fuck.
Is there going to be second episode with Magnus ?
you need both ultimately.
Are there video versiosn of the full podcast?
There's a lesson here: high level train 2x a week to maintain, 1x a week if normie. Train 3-5x a week if you want to improve.
I do agree you have to try really hard and want it, but climbing is becoming so competitive that a plan is needed. I don’t think he realizes how much training and planned training the youth climbers are getting now. I don’t think you need a good training plan to become good at climbing, but to be the best at competitive climbing you need a plan now.
It really wasn't that long ago that he was making world cup finals, and he trained along side the best in the world. Some of those people (like Jacob Schubert) are still the best in the world. I'm pretty sure he knows what's involved.
@@michaelmccluskey2044 I’m talking about current day competitive climbing. There was never a combined format of lead and bouldering in competition. The hold variations and movements are way different and require a much larger portfolio that can only be hit with a training plan. All these skills and new format can’t be hit with just climbing at random and trying really hard.
@@Lu_Thor I’m not really debating what the best training strategy is, just pointing out that Magnus would be fully aware of what the top competitors do for training. On a broader point, it’s all very well to talk about what the youth climbers are doing, but they’re not the best in the world yet. It remains to be seen whether their approaches are more effective than the current top climbers.
@@michaelmccluskey2044 He hasnt placed top 5 at a IFSC event in 10 years, and he was never at the real top of competition climbing were he was consistently making top3 placements (well maybe as a youth). I think oh.1697 comment is valid, you cannot be a winning contender today without proper training plan. Just look at something like Ondras programs when preparing for the olympics, the level of min/maxing is insane.
But Magnus also have a point here, if you look at the top outdoors climbers today, a lot of them are no longer at the top of the competition game, they ofc probably still train alot, but most of them just seem to focus on climbing a lot, and climbing hard. But Im pretty sure non of them train as much as they did when competing. But he is downplaying his training a lot here, I've seen in multiple appearances he discussing his training routine while competing, and its nothing like what he describes here.
Training: There are Sharma types and Ondra types. Magnus is one of the former.
He is a bit negative when it comes to climbing better, Sharma at 42 just sent a 9b+ why wouldn’t Magnus be able to to that?
Magnus seems sad.
i think the backing track is a bit sad sounding, which creates the impression of a sad Ma
People from Bergen usually do.
Yeah, heard that thru the lines in the podcast back when, guess he had a bad day.