DO NOT HIT THE STUD FOR THE TIE ROD END!!!! That’s a good way to mushroom it and stop you from getting the nut on or off. The proper way is to smack the knuckle on the side where the tie rod bolt goes through.
I did the same to my 2014 but ended up adding the Rough Country Upper Control Arms as it was bottoming out on rebound. No issues and actually the RC Upper Control Arms are massive in comparison to stock. They are intended for 2" - 4" lifts and put the geometry of the ball joint back to more standard angles which should help in reducing potential wear and tear down the road.
Just a quick reminder, check your warranty first. Most warranty will void any recall items or any other factory issue if a lift and level kit is installed
put the motofab 3" on my truck, have yet to get rid of all the different noises coming from my front end. I have replaced, UCA's, sway bar links, tie rod ends, rotors, brakes, rims, tires, cv axles... the only thing stock is the rancho strut and the lower control arm. I may just go down to a 2.5"
When i initially tried this install, the directions had me putting the strut in a vice and attempting to turn that bottom portion of the strut. After a couple of attempt and being scared of snapping something on the strut, i gave up, reversed everything and sent it back. Wish i had seen your video first and attempted to just use a lift to get the holes to line up
I saw the exact same thing on some video. About using the vice for the strut. I just did basically what he did same thing lined up at the bottom first and the whole assembly actually came towards me when I was laying it up. Then all I had to do once the bolts were in just push it back and lower the control arm with my foot until I got it inside the groove for the holes.
Hey bud might wann be careful next time you do that with your brake lines bungee or tie that spindle to a hole on frame somewhere to support it overall good job
What is the height from the ground to the bottom of fenders? Front and rear? Edit, I'll answer my question lol 39¾ and 41½ rear. But with a 2 ¼ rear block.
Marcus Mendoza yeah, some 33’s would look nice. Probably going to go with BFG KO2’s though. Not sure, maybe something a little more aggressive than the KO2? As for control arms, not in the plans at the moment, but later down the road if there are any issues, then yes.
Chris Meacham personally I have the on my tahoe there great no issues I have 30k miles on them no issues and they still have more then half there life in them I’d recommend them over the KO2’s and so would my uncle he had some wear issues with them and once he put miles on them they got loud and he complained about wet traction issues and I convinced him to switch over to the toyos and he even likes them over his old KO2’s, the reason I brought up control arms is because if you look the upper control arm is resting on the droop limiter so you have 0 down travel in the suspension now
So 5 months or so, how's the balljoints? And any issues in other areas? I have a 2" RC on front now, and also have a 2.5 motofab sitting here. I'm looking at 2" rear blocks. But found a deal on both front 3", and 2" rear. I would get upper control arms eventually but like to see how this one is doing. I don't off road so probably good for a while. To much $$ to be dickering up a new truck. Lol. Thanks for any reply 👍
@@Herbymac0811 upper control arms prematurely worn. Had to be replaced after 50k miles. 3” is pretty much the max you can lift the front without upgraded uppers/knuckle. Other joints still look like they are taking it fine.
I just got my kit 3" front 2" rear ive called a couple shops they are saying i could experience bottom out over bumps and holes on with the stock control arms. I don't do any off road driving. Do you have this issue? I plan on running 33" tires.
Tommy James using stock control arms, you’ll lose travel in droop.( when the wheel drops lower then you’re stock height for instance like going off a jump or you’re front end leaves the road surface.) three inches is pretty much the max that i would go for the control arms but if you want you’re stock performance or better performance you’ll need either drop spindles or modified control arms. If you’re just staying on the road and not off roading, i think you’ll be okay. Just be aware about the loss in droop, and extra stress on ball joints. Have a blessed day.
Chris Meacham my main goal was to throw 33” on the truck with new 20x10 wheels with offset of -19. Should I return this set up and just do 2.5 Moto fab in the front only ?
Tommy James you can run that setup (the one you have). It’ll all depend on the end stance you want. I would google how 33s look with 2.5 and then with 3. It’s a very small difference, i would just go with what you have. It doesn’t hurt to have extra clearance!
Chris Meacham yeah I have with both set ups on customoffsets.com they have a huge data base with peoples rides. It looks great. I was just concerned about the overall durability.
Is it perfect level?? i have the same truck but cant decide if i want use 2" or 2.5" lift block at the back i really dont want to be higher at the front
Any difference with ride quality? Just curious due to no shock extensions or longer replacement shocks with this kit. I've got a 2015 Silverado that I'm contemplating doing this kit on. I'm thinking the 3" in the front and 2" in the rear.
Scott Shuttleworth so far it feels the same as before. But if you wanna upgrade your shocks, i suggest Bilstein 5100s for the rear. The front won’t need new ones, since the spacer is on top of the coilover
@@developmentdivision122 I'm also worried about wearing out front end components, ball joints and tierod ends with this lift/level kit since the control arms are the factory arms. I'm not going to be doing any kind of off roading, mine is a pavement princess haha. I do average driving. Just wondering how those components will wear.
@@scottshuttleworth2085 The extension is not too much to have to worry about premwear. Plus for the what you are doing, unless you go full suspension kit, having to buy new axles and tie rods a few thousand miles before theyre normally due isn't a bad tradeoff imo.
I just did my Silverado 1500 2018 and I kept the same wheels and my front rims run on my control arm....only when backing up full lock. Does yours do the same?
@@developmentdivision122 I’m also thinking of doing this kit on my 18 Sierra all terrain but been seeing a lot of bad reviews on 3 in without UCA love the stance on your truck looks great
To chime in. After 3k, my passenger side balljoint was working its way out. 1/8 gap. Thats with 0 off roading. Since a year ago after watching this video. I've installed readylift control arms, diff drop spacers, and shock extensions for the rear. Much better ride.
DO NOT HIT THE STUD FOR THE TIE ROD END!!!! That’s a good way to mushroom it and stop you from getting the nut on or off. The proper way is to smack the knuckle on the side where the tie rod bolt goes through.
Been there done that
I did the same to my 2014 but ended up adding the Rough Country Upper Control Arms as it was bottoming out on rebound. No issues and actually the RC Upper Control Arms are massive in comparison to stock. They are intended for 2" - 4" lifts and put the geometry of the ball joint back to more standard angles which should help in reducing potential wear and tear down the road.
Just a quick reminder, check your warranty first. Most warranty will void any recall items or any other factory issue if a lift and level kit is installed
3 inch in the front 1 inch in the back, and party all the way around. Great work son.
Jacob Rodriguez needs tires next i think 🤔
Lol hes talking about sex bro
Guy reminds me of Russel Wilson. Good video on the install.
put the motofab 3" on my truck, have yet to get rid of all the different noises coming from my front end. I have replaced, UCA's, sway bar links, tie rod ends, rotors, brakes, rims, tires, cv axles... the only thing stock is the rancho strut and the lower control arm. I may just go down to a 2.5"
Lower ball joints or rack and pinion bushings?
When i initially tried this install, the directions had me putting the strut in a vice and attempting to turn that bottom portion of the strut. After a couple of attempt and being scared of snapping something on the strut, i gave up, reversed everything and sent it back. Wish i had seen your video first and attempted to just use a lift to get the holes to line up
I saw the exact same thing on some video. About using the vice for the strut. I just did basically what he did same thing lined up at the bottom first and the whole assembly actually came towards me when I was laying it up. Then all I had to do once the bolts were in just push it back and lower the control arm with my foot until I got it inside the groove for the holes.
wish i did the 2.5" on top and not a 2" on the bottom of the shock. Larger tires could use the bit more space for zero rubbing
Hey bud might wann be careful next time you do that with your brake lines bungee or tie that spindle to a hole on frame somewhere to support it overall good job
What is the height from the ground to the bottom of fenders? Front and rear?
Edit, I'll answer my question lol
39¾ and 41½ rear. But with a 2 ¼ rear block.
Stance of the truck looks great 285/60r20 toyo R/T’s wound be a great choice for tire’s, do you plan on upgrading you control arms at all ?
Marcus Mendoza yeah, some 33’s would look nice. Probably going to go with BFG KO2’s though. Not sure, maybe something a little more aggressive than the KO2? As for control arms, not in the plans at the moment, but later down the road if there are any issues, then yes.
Chris Meacham personally I have the on my tahoe there great no issues I have 30k miles on them no issues and they still have more then half there life in them I’d recommend them over the KO2’s and so would my uncle he had some wear issues with them and once he put miles on them they got loud and he complained about wet traction issues and I convinced him to switch over to the toyos and he even likes them over his old KO2’s, the reason I brought up control arms is because if you look the upper control arm is resting on the droop limiter so you have 0 down travel in the suspension now
I'm putting on the same lift but also adding Readylift upper control arms. Ball joint angle is just too severe without them.
Nice video straight forward. Who's truck?
REN JK41 a good friend of mine
nice! did you upgrade your tires? if so, sizw info plz
Do you plan to put new upper Control Arms on the truck?
Jacob Dela Rosa not in the near future, unless the upper ball joints wear out early or something.
i forgot to mention that i install RC upper control arm on mine ,this might be why it rubs .it also seems to be higher with it.
So 5 months or so, how's the balljoints? And any issues in other areas? I have a 2" RC on front now, and also have a 2.5 motofab sitting here. I'm looking at 2" rear blocks. But found a deal on both front 3", and 2" rear. I would get upper control arms eventually but like to see how this one is doing. I don't off road so probably good for a while. To much $$ to be dickering up a new truck. Lol. Thanks for any reply 👍
ProjectADD no problems or issues or premature wear signs of the ball joints. Truck still drives like new, straight as an arrow.
@@developmentdivision122 Awesome 👍
@@developmentdivision122 question, what is the height now from ground, center of hub, to the bottom side of the fender? Thanks
Mean while his brakes lines are screaming for dear life
Going with 3”front and 2”rear kit. Will I need to use longer shocks?
No. The 3” spacer for the front acts as shock extension. The rear should be fine with the stock shocks.
Ok now…. How are your control arms and ball joints taking it???
@@Herbymac0811 upper control arms prematurely worn. Had to be replaced after 50k miles. 3” is pretty much the max you can lift the front without upgraded uppers/knuckle. Other joints still look like they are taking it fine.
I just got my kit 3" front 2" rear ive called a couple shops they are saying i could experience bottom out over bumps and holes on with the stock control arms. I don't do any off road driving. Do you have this issue? I plan on running 33" tires.
Tommy James using stock control arms, you’ll lose travel in droop.( when the wheel drops lower then you’re stock height for instance like going off a jump or you’re front end leaves the road surface.) three inches is pretty much the max that i would go for the control arms but if you want you’re stock performance or better performance you’ll need either drop spindles or modified control arms. If you’re just staying on the road and not off roading, i think you’ll be okay. Just be aware about the loss in droop, and extra stress on ball joints. Have a blessed day.
Chris Meacham my main goal was to throw 33” on the truck with new 20x10 wheels with offset of -19. Should I return this set up and just do 2.5 Moto fab in the front only ?
Tommy James you can run that setup (the one you have). It’ll all depend on the end stance you want. I would google how 33s look with 2.5 and then with 3. It’s a very small difference, i would just go with what you have. It doesn’t hurt to have extra clearance!
Chris Meacham yeah I have with both set ups on customoffsets.com they have a huge data base with peoples rides. It looks great. I was just concerned about the overall durability.
Chris Meacham thank you for all of your input.
I just got this kit for my 2018. How are the stock suspension components after like 8 months.
Alex Firebaugh still pretty good
Is it perfect level?? i have the same truck but cant decide if i want use 2" or 2.5" lift block at the back i really dont want to be higher at the front
Go for the 2” if you aren’t going to be using the bed for anything. 2.5” will compensate for a toolbox, headache rack, etc
Nice job
In the rear did you have to undo anything other than shocks? Meaning brake lines etc.
Varick Reeder Nope, if my memory serves correct, just shocks.
Chris Meacham thx
What if I just did motofab 2.5 level in the front and leave the back stock..would I have any issues. 2019 chevy 1500
should be fine.. 3 or more you should replace upper arms
Any difference with ride quality? Just curious due to no shock extensions or longer replacement shocks with this kit. I've got a 2015 Silverado that I'm contemplating doing this kit on. I'm thinking the 3" in the front and 2" in the rear.
Scott Shuttleworth so far it feels the same as before. But if you wanna upgrade your shocks, i suggest Bilstein 5100s for the rear. The front won’t need new ones, since the spacer is on top of the coilover
@@developmentdivision122 I'm also worried about wearing out front end components, ball joints and tierod ends with this lift/level kit since the control arms are the factory arms. I'm not going to be doing any kind of off roading, mine is a pavement princess haha. I do average driving. Just wondering how those components will wear.
Scott Shuttleworth they look fine as of now, I'll make an update video on the leveling kit in a few months.
@@scottshuttleworth2085 The extension is not too much to have to worry about premwear. Plus for the what you are doing, unless you go full suspension kit, having to buy new axles and tie rods a few thousand miles before theyre normally due isn't a bad tradeoff imo.
Do you have to loosen up the upper control arm all the way so it has enough downward angle to go back on the spindle?
Yes you do that easier access
I just did my Silverado 1500 2018 and I kept the same wheels and my front rims run on my control arm....only when backing up full lock. Does yours do the same?
They rub metal on metal
yves gagnon i don’t have this issue. Get wheel spacers.
@@developmentdivision122 probably get new wheels with a negative offset
I know this is a older video but did this kit make the truck level or is it a little bit higher in the front? Hard to tell in the video
Level
How do the ball joints look?
Zackary Watson they don't look too bad, ideally, I would want to get some different spindles for this type of lift. But so far no issues.
Any issues so far ?
No issues
@@developmentdivision122 I’m also thinking of doing this kit on my 18 Sierra all terrain but been seeing a lot of bad reviews on 3 in without UCA love the stance on your truck looks great
How long did it take you to just do the front?
Maybe like 1-2 hours tops, the truck was pretty clean so bolts and nuts came off quick and easy.
Would this kit do any damage in the front ?
victor alvarez No
Do u recommend upper control arms
Yes but you can go without them. Not a need unless you’re using for moderate to heavy off road use
To chime in. After 3k, my passenger side balljoint was working its way out. 1/8 gap. Thats with 0 off roading. Since a year ago after watching this video. I've installed readylift control arms, diff drop spacers, and shock extensions for the rear. Much better ride.
With some 22x12s on 33s oof
RIP ur upper control arm
You are bad ass
Ooooooof