Really well put together video. One piece of critique: when the music started all of a sudden (10:21), I found it really distracting. It looks like you had music the entire time, it just seemed to get much louder at some point.
Dude this is by far the best tutorial out there!!!! Iv been struggling to understand how to implement this into trying to cut a particular design I have and I think you just solved it all, going to try a narrower V but I think I got it as for adjusting the radius off set and clearing 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for your kind feedback @woodcraft_cz ! I’m glad my video is still helping others. I would love to see your outcome with this technique. Cheers dude 👍👍
At first I was searching how to make inlays, but damn this video was way more instructive on which I can't say anything less than a real thank you for sharing your knowledge!
This was really good and now my go to video on Vcarving. Presentation, flow and "cookbook" steps were right on. No more dealing with the VCarve Pro deep dive bug on vcarving! Thanks!!!
An amazing video, jam packed with information that is very helpful. I am very new to cnc, and want to make inlay cutting boards, using fusion, and this is just great, every step quickly explained and super clear, thank you for providing this content for free!
Thank you for your generous comment @Baltic Blades . I pleased to hear that this helped you and interested to see how this technique can be used for inlays. Good luck with the CNC journey and thanks for your kindness!! 😁👍
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks! Well I hope this will work out, as I will do one part as you show in the video, and the other one will be inverted, ofc I will use a smaller angle bit for both of the parts! Super excited, cnc milling is a very exciting thing!
Great to hear! Just keep in mind that a sharper angle will means that you will need to use some trigonometry to figure out the rest tool path! 90deg is easiest to work out but with simple trig any v bit can be used!! It’s an exciting journey!! Enjoy 😀😀
Another Great Video, Thanks. I liked your little trick with the offset to close the gap to allow it to select the contour. I also hit this problem, spent hours trying to find the gap. I ended up using a feature that allows you to set the tolerance of what you will ignore. It’s under the toolpath menu (Right click on your toolpath), in the “Compare and Edit” menu item. I changed the “Chaining Tolerance” from 0.01mm to 0.001mm. smaller ignores more…
Thanks for your comment Adrian!! Great advice. I must give this a go 👍 I had not tried this before. I appreciate your feedback and support Adrian. Keep on carving 😊👍
Great video! The fake bit idea is brilliant. I'll look into your other videos but would be particularly interested in further illustrator tutorials on creating designs to be transferred to fusion. Mandala layers perhaps.
Great tutorial. I was wondering if there is a work around for personal fusion 360 users. I can't postprocess both engraving processes because fusion360 believes I am using a different bit. Thanks!
Thanks for letting me know! I didn’t realize that happened. I would just run one program after the next on your CNC, however you could manually insert the tool path gcode into the end of previous. Unfortunately I’m not aware of any ways around this issue with the personal version.
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks! Yes that is what I did and the cut turned out great! Such a simple method that I would have never thought to do on my own. Thanks again
Well done. Looks cools. I am trying to do something similar, first time using fusion on the CNC at work, but the program somehow behaves randomly at the end and just digging in into the CNC bed, I have to emergency stop it to avoid accident or crash. Hopefully I figure it out soon.
Thanks Rafael! Hmm the only thing I can think of is that you may have started up the machine with the spindle close to the bed and that’s where it thought the z safe height was! I’m not sure what happened in your case, however try winding your z height to the highest point and reconnect the machine. Maybe try an air cut without the spindle on to check the tool path! You can also use ncviewer.com to check the tool path gcode before using on CNC!! I hope this helps 👍😁
hello there! i really like your videos, i keep on watching it over and over. and i copied your procedures.. and it simulate very well on fusion 360, but when i put on my machine , the second process which is engrave didn,t go well.. its off by i think 1mm..didnt match exactly to my first process.. i hope you can help me with this.. thank you!
Thanks for your comment Eddie! Sorry to hear the second process didn’t work out well. More than happy to look into it for you. Feel free to send me the file or a video of the fusion tool path to assist you. My email is newtechcreative@gmail.com
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Have you tried going one step further and making an inlay to go into a carving? If you have any tips for how to make that work, it would be really useful.
Great to hear an Aussie doing these kinds of video. I’m considering getting started with CNC over here too, where do you get your wood from? Bunnings basically only sells pine and decking boards… so that’s no good.
Cheers @Ae8Zn6 . It took me a while to research and find good sources of timber in Brisbane. Where are you located? Depends on what type of timber your after. Some of the best finds for me were fb marketplace sellers where you can find some really interesting timber however this also has its risks. There is also high quality timber supply places that sell much better quality ply and building products than bunnings that pop up on google maps after doing some digging. It does take time to find good quality and trustworthy suppliers, however networking, talking to other woodworkers/fb sellers and jumping on fb groups in your local area will give you a pretty good idea where to purchase, however just takes time! If your from around Brissy I can certainly give you some leads. 👍
@@NEWTechCreative regional Vic here, there are some local mills, so might be able to get some rough sawn ash. Really just after woods to move to once I have figured out working on cheap stuff for practice (probably pine). Will be doing cnc for presents etc. so want something that will look impressive once it has a good stain/finish on it. Looking at getting the workbee 1x1.5 myself from maker store. I can’t decide how much to invest in the spindle though, it’s my first cnc, so I could probably get away with a router or their 400w jobby, but noise is a concern and I don’t want to just need to upgrade in 6 months…
Great to hear about possibly purchasing a workbee. I would suggest upgrading directly to a 1.5kw or 2kw water cooled spindle…, you will end up purchasing within the first year anyway 😊 regarding using pine to CNC with.. I would suggest to avoid using pine for engraving or 3D carvings as it has a furry finish and hard to work with. It’s ok for just 2D contour cuts but warps pretty quickly. You will be better off using pine ply for stiffness and strength, however for other 3D carvings, there a a heap of other timber’s that you might find down where you are such as macadamia and other fruit tree species that have a much nicer grain and carve better!
@@NEWTechCreative ha, don’t twist my arm too hard into something I was already trying to find an excuse to justify 😂 Was mainly thinking pine for calibration and experimentation, then switching to other species once I’m starting to get a handle on things. Would likely be throwing out most of the pine I cut. Thanks for the advice, looking forward to your future videos.
Your using ugs? When you change your bits do you just return to 0 change the bit and then zero the z? I always have trouble with the machine just driving through my work to get to the beginning of the next g code.... so frustrating!
Thanks for your comment! Yes I’ve been there before with UGS. I still use UGS and love it! The most likely reason for diving into work piece is that your ‘homing’ 0 or machine 0 is not set correctly event though you have set zero… one of the frustrating parts of UGS. To avoid this from happening, I always start my machine with the z height all way up before booting UGS, then will understand where the machine 0 is. Let me know if that works??
Awesome stuff, quick question though coming from someone that is brand new to this world of CNC and editing. Why not export as SVG file? Is there a specific reason why you export from Illustrator as DXF? Thank you!
Great question! Yes that is also possible and can export as an svg just as easily. I tend to default to dxf files as they are locked to a specific measurement and carryover between apps without loss of dimensions, where as svgs are not as dimension driven and can cause issues if you need something spot on, however work well in most cases.
Very informative but the music that ramps up at about the 10:00 mark was *REALLY* distracting. It was so loud it was competing with your voice and I found it difficult to follow along from that point.
@@NEWTechCreative I did turn on the captions but I had to mute the sound entirely as the tug of war between your voice and the music made it difficult to concentrate on what you were demonstrating. Nevertheless, it was a great video and I love the idea of tricking the software into thinking you have a tiny end mill; very clever.
Thanks for your comment @Derek Goslee . I’m not sure without seeing your setup? However it sounds like you need to select an outer border as well to let the engraving tool path know where to start engraving! Let me know if that helps?
your music is very distracting. If you could lower the volume or cut it off I will be able to understand you easier. I am 81 and don't hear as well as I used to. Thank you
Thanks for your feedback James! Unfortunately RUclips doesn’t allow re-uploading or changing once a video has been released 😩😩 I will improve on future videos!!
Really well put together video. One piece of critique: when the music started all of a sudden (10:21), I found it really distracting. It looks like you had music the entire time, it just seemed to get much louder at some point.
I appreciate your feedback! Thanks for letting me know. I’ll keep an eye on the music levels for future videos 😁
Dude this is by far the best tutorial out there!!!! Iv been struggling to understand how to implement this into trying to cut a particular design I have and I think you just solved it all, going to try a narrower V but I think I got it as for adjusting the radius off set and clearing 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for your kind feedback @woodcraft_cz ! I’m glad my video is still helping others. I would love to see your outcome with this technique. Cheers dude 👍👍
Man, I wish more tutorials used the keystroke logger. Subbed the second you mentioned that; SO incredibly helpful
Thanks for your kind words Elliott! I understand your frustration. Cheers for the Sub 😁
At first I was searching how to make inlays, but damn this video was way more instructive on which I can't say anything less than a real thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for your kindness @Gillesdelbeke ! I’m glad you enjoyed my video! Good luck with the CNC journey 😊😊
This was really good and now my go to video on Vcarving. Presentation, flow and "cookbook" steps were right on. No more dealing with the VCarve Pro deep dive bug on vcarving! Thanks!!!
Thanks for your kind feedback Perry! I’m pleased that you found this helpful 😊😊😊
thanks for the hint with the fake bit, it helps me a lot!
Now this video made so much sense of making it simple. And using stock to leave and rest machining made it work so well. Thank you.
Thanks @Leon Searle! I’m glad it helped. I appreciate your feedback 😄😄
Nice just what I was looking for ..
Thanks
This video answered so many questions I had. Thanks!
Wow! Thank you! Didn't know that stock to leave trick.
Great video, thank you. Love the false bit trick.
My dude, this video was incredibly useful to me. Thanks for taking the time to make it!
Thank you for you kind feedback @Adam Kahler . I’m glad I could help you out 😊
nice work and smart thinking well done really appreciate your lesson
Thanks for your kind comment Oun 😁😁👍
FANTASTIC breakdown. Thank you for transferring some of your knowledge into my mind.
Thanks for your kind words 😊😊
totally awesome! love that last little cleanup pass. good thinking!!!
Thank you @danny austin !
@@NEWTechCreative just did my first carve.. ended up with those pesky bits left over in the middle. now re-watching to implement that top tip :)
Great presentation! Excellent for us newbies, thanks!
Thanks for your comment @Sandra In The Sky . I look forward to making some more beginner tutorials down the track 👍😁
An amazing video, jam packed with information that is very helpful. I am very new to cnc, and want to make inlay cutting boards, using fusion, and this is just great, every step quickly explained and super clear, thank you for providing this content for free!
Thank you for your generous comment @Baltic Blades . I pleased to hear that this helped you and interested to see how this technique can be used for inlays. Good luck with the CNC journey and thanks for your kindness!! 😁👍
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks! Well I hope this will work out, as I will do one part as you show in the video, and the other one will be inverted, ofc I will use a smaller angle bit for both of the parts! Super excited, cnc milling is a very exciting thing!
Great to hear! Just keep in mind that a sharper angle will means that you will need to use some trigonometry to figure out the rest tool path! 90deg is easiest to work out but with simple trig any v bit can be used!! It’s an exciting journey!! Enjoy 😀😀
Another Great Video, Thanks. I liked your little trick with the offset to close the gap to allow it to select the contour. I also hit this problem, spent hours trying to find the gap.
I ended up using a feature that allows you to set the tolerance of what you will ignore. It’s under the toolpath menu (Right click on your toolpath), in the “Compare and Edit” menu item. I changed the “Chaining Tolerance” from 0.01mm to 0.001mm. smaller ignores more…
Thanks for your comment Adrian!! Great advice. I must give this a go 👍 I had not tried this before. I appreciate your feedback and support Adrian. Keep on carving 😊👍
Great video! The fake bit idea is brilliant. I'll look into your other videos but would be particularly interested in further illustrator tutorials on creating designs to be transferred to fusion. Mandala layers perhaps.
Thanks for your comment @Conrad Hynes . Great idea! This would be a great video to make!! I’ll add it to the list 😁👍👍
Thanks for the video. 👍
Excellent work, would love to see if you have done any inlay work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Robert! I haven’t attempted any inlay at this stage, however I think I’ll give it a crack soon 😊
Hi thanks alot for the video. I was looks for a while for this explanation.
this is awesome, thank you !!!
Like a new fan ho love to make art with cnc machine what kind of stuff i have to learn!?
Great tutorial. I was wondering if there is a work around for personal fusion 360 users. I can't postprocess both engraving processes because fusion360 believes I am using a different bit. Thanks!
Thanks for letting me know! I didn’t realize that happened. I would just run one program after the next on your CNC, however you could manually insert the tool path gcode into the end of previous. Unfortunately I’m not aware of any ways around this issue with the personal version.
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks! Yes that is what I did and the cut turned out great! Such a simple method that I would have never thought to do on my own. Thanks again
Well done. Looks cools. I am trying to do something similar, first time using fusion on the CNC at work, but the program somehow behaves randomly at the end and just digging in into the CNC bed, I have to emergency stop it to avoid accident or crash. Hopefully I figure it out soon.
Thanks Rafael! Hmm the only thing I can think of is that you may have started up the machine with the spindle close to the bed and that’s where it thought the z safe height was! I’m not sure what happened in your case, however try winding your z height to the highest point and reconnect the machine. Maybe try an air cut without the spindle on to check the tool path! You can also use ncviewer.com to check the tool path gcode before using on CNC!! I hope this helps 👍😁
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks for the suggestion, I will try it, cheers.
Very nice and simple to understand video. How about a follow up and make an inlay, would greatly appreciate learning how to do that. Thanks
Great suggestion! I’ll put it on the list 😊😊
hello there! i really like your videos, i keep on watching it over and over. and i copied your procedures.. and it simulate very well on fusion 360, but when i put on my machine , the second process which is engrave didn,t go well.. its off by i think 1mm..didnt match exactly to my first process.. i hope you can help me with this.. thank you!
Thanks for your comment Eddie! Sorry to hear the second process didn’t work out well. More than happy to look into it for you. Feel free to send me the file or a video of the fusion tool path to assist you. My email is newtechcreative@gmail.com
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Have you tried going one step further and making an inlay to go into a carving? If you have any tips for how to make that work, it would be really useful.
Thanks for you great suggestion @Andrew Moore . I will certainly consider it! This is a logical next step for this technique 👍👍
Thanks a lot. specially that using the fake bit
Great to hear an Aussie doing these kinds of video. I’m considering getting started with CNC over here too, where do you get your wood from? Bunnings basically only sells pine and decking boards… so that’s no good.
Cheers @Ae8Zn6 . It took me a while to research and find good sources of timber in Brisbane. Where are you located? Depends on what type of timber your after. Some of the best finds for me were fb marketplace sellers where you can find some really interesting timber however this also has its risks. There is also high quality timber supply places that sell much better quality ply and building products than bunnings that pop up on google maps after doing some digging. It does take time to find good quality and trustworthy suppliers, however networking, talking to other woodworkers/fb sellers and jumping on fb groups in your local area will give you a pretty good idea where to purchase, however just takes time! If your from around Brissy I can certainly give you some leads. 👍
@@NEWTechCreative regional Vic here, there are some local mills, so might be able to get some rough sawn ash. Really just after woods to move to once I have figured out working on cheap stuff for practice (probably pine). Will be doing cnc for presents etc. so want something that will look impressive once it has a good stain/finish on it.
Looking at getting the workbee 1x1.5 myself from maker store. I can’t decide how much to invest in the spindle though, it’s my first cnc, so I could probably get away with a router or their 400w jobby, but noise is a concern and I don’t want to just need to upgrade in 6 months…
Great to hear about possibly purchasing a workbee. I would suggest upgrading directly to a 1.5kw or 2kw water cooled spindle…, you will end up purchasing within the first year anyway 😊 regarding using pine to CNC with.. I would suggest to avoid using pine for engraving or 3D carvings as it has a furry finish and hard to work with. It’s ok for just 2D contour cuts but warps pretty quickly. You will be better off using pine ply for stiffness and strength, however for other 3D carvings, there a a heap of other timber’s that you might find down where you are such as macadamia and other fruit tree species that have a much nicer grain and carve better!
@@NEWTechCreative ha, don’t twist my arm too hard into something I was already trying to find an excuse to justify 😂
Was mainly thinking pine for calibration and experimentation, then switching to other species once I’m starting to get a handle on things. Would likely be throwing out most of the pine I cut.
Thanks for the advice, looking forward to your future videos.
Which program did you use for logging your keys on screen like that?
It’s a program called Carnac 😁
@@NEWTechCreative Thank you! (:
When you say stock, do you mean the wood block?
Yes! Correct 👍
Your using ugs? When you change your bits do you just return to 0 change the bit and then zero the z? I always have trouble with the machine just driving through my work to get to the beginning of the next g code.... so frustrating!
Thanks for your comment! Yes I’ve been there before with UGS. I still use UGS and love it! The most likely reason for diving into work piece is that your ‘homing’ 0 or machine 0 is not set correctly event though you have set zero… one of the frustrating parts of UGS. To avoid this from happening, I always start my machine with the z height all way up before booting UGS, then will understand where the machine 0 is. Let me know if that works??
Awesome stuff, quick question though coming from someone that is brand new to this world of CNC and editing. Why not export as SVG file? Is there a specific reason why you export from Illustrator as DXF? Thank you!
Great question! Yes that is also possible and can export as an svg just as easily. I tend to default to dxf files as they are locked to a specific measurement and carryover between apps without loss of dimensions, where as svgs are not as dimension driven and can cause issues if you need something spot on, however work well in most cases.
Nice piece of work, what timber did you use?
Thank you @John Parry
The timber is called camphor laurel. It’s a softer timber and quite easy to mill. Also has the most amazing smell!!
What kind of spindle do you use?
Hi @daveedje86 , I’m using a water cooled 2.2kw spindle! It’s a beast 😁
Very informative but the music that ramps up at about the 10:00 mark was *REALLY* distracting. It was so loud it was competing with your voice and I found it difficult to follow along from that point.
Thanks for letting me know. I think there are subtitles available if needed 👍
@@NEWTechCreative I did turn on the captions but I had to mute the sound entirely as the tug of war between your voice and the music made it difficult to concentrate on what you were demonstrating.
Nevertheless, it was a great video and I love the idea of tricking the software into thinking you have a tiny end mill; very clever.
Formula for stock to leave, for any angles bit is
tg(_half_angle_of_bit)*depth_of_cut
Thanks pubboo
amazinggggg
I can't get it to cut outside the letters I must of missed something.
Thanks for your comment @Derek Goslee . I’m not sure without seeing your setup? However it sounds like you need to select an outer border as well to let the engraving tool path know where to start engraving! Let me know if that helps?
Did you find a solution? I have the same problem!
same, followed everything and it will not cut around the outside, always inside
Around 14:00 the stock moved a little :-)
Ahhh!! Well done, thought it would go unnoticed 🤣 serves me right for not using my fence and taking a full depth pass! Good eyes @IceCreams62 😁
@@NEWTechCreative Of course thanks a lot for your videos
your music is very distracting. If you could lower the volume or cut it off I will be able to understand you easier. I am 81 and don't hear as well as I used to. Thank you
Thanks for your feedback James! Unfortunately RUclips doesn’t allow re-uploading or changing once a video has been released 😩😩 I will improve on future videos!!
@@NEWTechCreative bummer. good job on the content.
Great tutorial, but please… STOP THE MUSIC!!! It’s really distracting.
Thanks for your feedback. Unfortunately I can’t swap out the video once uploaded! Thanks for your support
Amazing barring the weird overly loud music that starts half way through
Thanks Josh! Yes I wish RUclips made it easier to alter a video once released, nevertheless thanks for barring with the audio. 👍
@@NEWTechCreative content was clearly good enough to have to squint my ears for haha. Yeah YT is annoying in some respects like that!
Having a hard time understanding you with the music going
Thanks for the feedback Brian!
@@NEWTechCreative still a great video though. I’ll be referring to it often