Temps are high because the radiators are side mounted and get no air flow. A lot of guys rig a switch to turn them on early. Also make sure all of your fans are working properly and make sure you have good coolant. If the bike has ever been dropped I can bet that the radiators are bent a little hindering coolant flow.
@@onlyoneromeoYup; I've rigged a manual switch to the bars of my VFR800 so i can turn the fan on and off at my discretion. Riding in London it's always on :/
Bought my sp1 in April, lost my cowl cover mid summer on the interstate. It's been an amazing bike. I just put a steering damper on unfortunately having to wait till spring to really dial it in.
How to solve the complaints: Start engine. Place in first gear. Slowly release clutch lever. Find long, winding road. Twist throttle. Forget about complaints.
Neil T or just get a Honda super hawk...better set up for the street anyways. RC51 was a scalpel designed to dethrone the Ducati 996 and it succeeded, end of story
@@tnelliott2447 On of my early bikes was a first generation Katana. No fuel gauge, no gear position indicator, average brakes and go like hell. All bike no frills.
With you on that one. I know what gear im in because i learnt how to count and i know how much fuel i have because im blessed with vision and can look in side the tank.
As it is based on the race variant,,it would be on paddock stands when performing maintenance tasks so it should be level,I don't know why Honda would make it very awkward to change and fill the oil.
Drain plug is always on the side of kickstand so it can drain from the lowest point. You don't need to remove the fairings. To fill unscrew the fairing bolt and pull fairing back. Use pliers to crack open the fill cap and use funnel to fill. On the bottom undo the clips that hold the fairings together and pull apart. You don't need to remove them.
I bought a new SP2 in 2002, still have it. No rectifier issues, does not run hot (I'm in Florida) Stays between 172 and 190. I think your bike is running way lean. I do wish Honda had used front mounted radiator though, side mounts limits engine mods. Bad points? Weight, side radiators, seat. My modified RC is plenty fast, handles great, just not all that comfortable anymore for my 66 year old body. About 1 hour is all I can take in the seat. Never lost my rear cowl, mine fits flush. I would suggest a good dyno tune, light battery, remove sound dampening around airbox , gearing change (1up/1down) and the usual flapper/ pair mod to start. Also soft limiter mod. That will transform the bike. After that light wheels, suspension upgrades, SS lines, brembo radial master cylinder.
Everything you found is Cuz Race Bike... It was designed as a race bike by the engineers first, street bike second.. Youve been spoiled by those VFR's and CBR's... Lol
A couple of ideas...you can purchase Spal pusher fans and mount them to each radiator. Additionally, there are carbon fiber air scoops that are mounted between the fairing, and radiator to draw moving air into the radiators. You could also switch to engine ice, water wetter, or Evans those are all pretty decent fluids to reduce operating temps. You could get a full ecu reflash, and have the fans come on at a lower temp. And, if you wanna go full baller status, you could buy the radiator relocation kit. This also helps you lose weight, because you only have one radiator, but its centralized in the traditional location, so you would be getting a lot more air thru, and around the rad. Phew.....! You should be able to find all these tips, tricks, and maybe parts on the Rogue51 forum. Enjoy!
On the hot temp, I had that problem. My friend that races his told me to use distilled water and appropriate amount of water wetter per gallon. It's awesome. I always ran 100 degrees Fahrenheit over ambient temperature. And yes when it hits 210 the fans kick in and actually cools the bike even in stop start traffic
My bikes don’t even go over 100c in Sydney traffic in the summer. Good coolant and tbe fans kick in about 90 something. 104c while running is ridiculous, should be sitting in 80s no problem. Sorry for Celsius but you can google lol.
The only legit complaints about her is her weight and how hot she runs. I live in san Antonio texas so, I removed the thermostat! It made a HUGE difference, she now runs at 178 degrees on the highway. Low 200s in traffic. TAKE YOUR THERMOSTAT OUT, ITS NOT LIKE YOUR GOING TO RIDE HER IN THE MASS WINTER. TAKE OUT THE THERMOSTAT BRO IM TELLING YOU.
That's a really sharp looking bike. I have always hated digital temperature gauges. As long as it isn't overheating, it is fine. Most cars and motorcycles do not number their gauges and put a normal temperature range on the face. When I had my 2000 VFR, I saw a lot of people going crazy because the coolant was over 212F. Cooling systems are pressurized and can take more than 212F. I think that the VFR got upset up around 245-250F and something started flashing. My Z1000 doesn't even have a temp gauge. Never cared about gear position indicators because I ride the bike in a rev range. I don't lug my bikes and want them to be able to pull away. If the bike is revving too high, I shift up and if the bike is revving too low, I shift down.
As much as I want it to happen so bad I know they will screw it up and it will probably look like shit and sound like shit too because of the emissions controls. There is just something about these old graphics on these old Japanese bikes. They look perfectly timeless. There are rumours going on that there will be a new v4 from Honda to compete against Aprilia and Ducati we'll see. I love Honda very very much but they are just not that special anymore. They are all just inline 4s smh
The vfr800 also...only in a lightweight streetfighter, and a second supersport CBR fairing ish styled version....rather than that touring bike crap they did from 03+. I love my 97 VFR750
drain on the left side as the bike leans to that side?,header wrap the left side link pipe to reduce heat radiating,defo swap the volt reg for a mosfet they run a lot colder, I have a low budget vtr1000 drag bike motor tuned to rc51 power sp1's and 2 are so expensive they have become a cult classic and way out of my 'fun toy' price range I may be wrong but I recall reading valentino rossi said the sp1 (possibly the 2?) was his favourite factory stock production bike ?
I have 2001 hornet 600 I had issues with it getting to hot . What I did was got a actual racing radiator . Flushed out the coolant and runs a lot better and stays cooler . Love your videos look forward to the next one
I'm sure you've heard of it, but if you put redline water wetter in your coolant it may help your temperature issues. I know it works well with cars, not familiar enough with motorcycles to know if it would work as well.
@@HeroRR I have also though about water wetter for my vfr but just be aware that there have been conflicting reports about its success. if you do decide to run it, make sure that your coolant has corrosion resistant additives in it and do a bit of research about the different results due to different water to coolant mixtures. I'm certainly not saying that you shouldn't use it though. I am also trying to decide myself now that i've seen other opinions is all.
@@AustinConnell One thing to be aware of is how accurate the temp gauge really is. I got suspicious of mine and using an infrared thermometer found it wasn’t running as hot as I thought.
I had the Nicky Hayden edition. I loved many things about it but in the end it was too heavy, it ran too hot for me and it was too impractical to perform maintenance procedures on. I think I should have only used it for the track like it was meant for. It was the most beautiful bike I’ve ever ridden and owned though.
I just watched this and wondered why this was a complaint? Gear indicators are completely unnecessary. What ever did people do without gear indicators over the last 100+ years of cycles?
@@retom7 Right, Become the bike. feel the bike. Be one with the bike. Let go Luke, trust your feelings. Yoda says, "Gear indicator, Hmph! Speedometer, Hmph! A true Rider needs not these things! LOL Anyway, More RC51 Videos Please! Love the channel
@@ryancoulter3755 Speedometers do keep you from getting tickets...if they were accurate. Mine are always optimistic, which is annoying. I definitely agree on the gear indicator. Ride the bike at an rpm that allows the bike to accelerate if necessary. Top gear on the highway for gas mileage. Oh, forgot it was an RV51. Gas mileage is never great.
My 2013 CB500F doesnt have a gear indicatior, and its driving me nuts. I constantly have to count shifts or remember how much rpm i have on what speed.
i'm pretty sure all rc51's have that trunk lid issue. I know at least 3 of my buddies have had issues with it not latching all the way. this is the case with both the cover and the seat version of that lid. I will ask around at pigfest in a couple months to see if anyone has found a solution. Speaking of which, idk where you're located (sounds and looks sort of northish), but you should come out to pigfest in August if you aren't too far. tons of RC51's on the dragon. I'll be on my vfr though chasing/passing those bastards in comfort lol.
I have a 2000 RC51 with about 55,000 miles. I bought it new in April of 2000, and I have never had a rectifier issue going on nearly 20 years on the original. On my 97 VFR yes, but not the RC. You must be standing at stoplights in hot weather to hit 220 degrees because even at a very average speed the temp should quickly drop into the 180 range. I get an average of about 42 mpg. I just ran a tank completely empty at 179 miles so that is how far a tank will go doing highway miles anyways. My frustration is aimed at the hard to see "Low Fuel" indicator in certain lighting conditions, Honda could have made it a bit more obvious. Other than that, your high pipes are to blame for the hot ankles as I haven't experienced any crazy heat from my titanium Moriwaki pipes (not routed as high as yours but higher than stock). I truly love my RC51! Keep up the cool vids!
@weldingblaster1 It is a bit snatchy, but over time you get used to it. If I need to I just bump it up a gear and use the low revs to help smooth it out a bit. Pulls from 1500 rpm so it is easy to do. I don't run a Power Commander so all is stock but the pipes.
Okay, given all of the pre-qualifications which you repeat often enough, the key ones being: fantastic bike, love this bike and race bike...I'll assume the bike is not for sale. 1) Fluids changes on a race bike had better be frequent and so you remove all the plastic anyway. It makes perfect sense to drain oil on the low side and add it on the high side. 2) Rear brake fluid reservoir access. There should be no need to access the reservoir between fluid changes. If it's leaking fluid, fix the leak. 3) Runs hot. Does it run within the factory specified operating range? If it does then it isn't running hot and if it doesn't get it fixed so that it runs within the factory specified range. 4) Mileage sucks, OMG it's a race bike! And, why would anyone want to do 130 nonstop miles in the saddle of most any sport bike let alone a race bike. 5) Exhaust heat on your ankle. I'd ask where you'd have the Honda engineers route the pipe? I suggest adding a heat shield either to the pipe or your ankle...LOL. 6) The rectifier issue is a good one to be aware of...thanks! 7) Loctite the rear cowl access hold down bolt as you suggest. It's not fast enough! Are you serious? Fast enough for what? If you can ride it at it's limits on a race track as it was designed to be ridden, don't worry there are plenty of faster motorcycles to choose from and you'll get a handsome sum of money for your increasingly rare RC51. Thanks for the review.
i thought it was annoying that i couldn't display temperature and the clock at the same time on my 2002 ninja 636, but not seeing the tripometer and the temp at the same time, especially on a bike that tends to run hot and not sip but gulp fuel like crazy would be a major concern to me.
I see a gear indicator, did you add that? I would put a heat shield on the exhaust to stop that heat, I had to put one on my Busa and you can find some nice looking ones... (the exhaust was melting the heal on my boot) I just put some shields on my goldwing because the heat from the left cyl. head was cooking my ankle.
On my gsx650f I need to remove both fairings to access the oil filter with an oil filtet wrench. Also, I took my bike on a 6 hour long ride on the interstate and I needed to stop every 100 miles because I was getting pretty uncomfortable. I could ride 150 to 175 miles before empty but I wouldn't want to on a long trip. For day to day riding it would be annoying to fill up though I bet.
I've had my VTR sp-2 (that's what they're called here in the UK),for almost 2 1/2 years and have never had a problem with overheating,but then again UK bikes are fitted with a separate temperature gauge.;-).Regarding the rectifier,that was one of the first things I replaced,I fitted one from a Yamaha R1 which has cooling fins and have had no probkems.
We should link up some time. I'm right in New Hampshire and have a 6th Gen vfr and a sp1 rc51 much like you! Well, getting the rvt tomorrow but I have high hopes for it.
Get the reverse scoops for the radiators or get a front mount radiator. Both help with the temps. I live in St Pete and did a lot of stop and go which the bike hates... never had a problem. If you get the scoops make sure they are backwards (opposite of a scoop) You don’t want a rear brake reservoir anyways... remove it and replace it with a tube only. Take your tube high enough to fill it. My RC51 did not heat my legs/ankles I had a stock exhaust. I lived in Florida too... can’t remember if the stock bike had heat shields but you can get aftermarket shields... they don’t weigh a damn thing... I needed one for my one of my Ninja’s. I’ve never cared for a gear indicator they don’t matter and you can buy them. When the RPMs are low you shift when they are high you shift. You can feel first and should know your in 6th. I guess I drove mine daily year long so I was used to it but... I had other bike with gear indicators I never ever looked at them. Don’t even need a neutral indicator. I bought mine brand new in 2006 loved it until someone loved it more and borrowed it permanently while I was sleeping.
My RC is super modified. The only thing that is stock... Fuel Tank , Frame, some of the wiring. I"d like to pop a pic and share the fun. Perhaps will do a review.
I've owned half a dozen motorcycles, one which was a Honda that handled great, looked and sounded fantastic as well, and was easy to work on. This Honda looks and sounds fantastic as well, and I was thinking about buying one, but this video is exactly what I needed to steer me back to something simple and more convenient.
@@blakeolinger1220 How would you compare the maintenance on this bike with your Honda VFR 800? I've heard people usually don't do much more than change the oil and filter and tires and they'll still run over 100k miles.
I used to have this exact same bike only with Yoshi’s instead. I miss it so much. I started watching videos and got to day dreaming about buying one again. Then you started talking about how hot it gets. For some reason I don’t remember that about mine but now I’m like man... do I want one if they get so hot like that. Ugh... is it really that bad?? I don’t know why I can’t remember that about mine. I only had it for about 6 months
The high coolant temps are likely emissions related. It’s relatively common with some cars. I had a 96 Z28 and the factory settings for the cooling fans were ridiculous... turn on low speed at 215F and high speed at over 220F.
Does the RC51 use a repurposed engine, or did Honda design the engine to be used on another model besides the RC51? I don't know these answers, just wondering if this is why the oil access is put there. Also, you may want to change out your temp sending unit, just to see if that is why your engine temp reads high. It will probably not matter, but may be a cheap fix if it does. Love the videos, would be cool to see something on the smaller class commuter bikes such as the CBR300R if you are so inclined. Thanks!
For the rectifier issue make that hole bigger and put another hole on the otherside. Easy way to get more air flow back there. Alos that parking lot looks like every other parking lot in MA lol
My 06 1000rr use to run 225-227 until i got an ecu flash. The fan comes on sooner also i put an aluminum tig welded radiator in. Now i dont get over 206 on a hot day otherwise im 187-195
When the fuel air mixture is close to perfect, it runs hot. Learned from an old air force mechanic. Your average bike runs rich to keep cool, yours however runs as close to perfect air fuel due to being a race bike. It was designed that way.
My vfr runs hot aswell and that's definitely not a race bike. Hot just means stoicheometric/ lean more than anything else. Besides that's burn temps not operating temperatures. The engine runs hot because honda designed it too. And probably largely because of the side radiators aswell.
@@samuelcurran714 ur forgetting the Chock Full o Nuts size pistons those combustion chambers het up a plenty. RC 30'S and RC 45's are the same. Joey Dunlops 800cc v4 at the IOM in 1980 ran hot till he went out on the course. Also the engine has to have an operating temp for the fuel injection to work properly at street speeds.
It would be nice if you could another carbon fiber rim for the rear. Would look SICK... Expensive though. Thanks for sharing. No gear indicator though? Can see the gear number in red in your vids, lol...
Replace one fan with a spal 30103013 5.2" Paddle Blade Pusher Fan (then you will have a push-pull) to keep it from going OVER 220 ever. With the stock pull-pull setup, the faster you ride the more the fans fight natural air flow. After overheating at road Atlanta I switched to a push-push, then I started overheating in traffic lol, so now one push one pull is perfect. Also fans don't turn on until 220, so if you want lower temps you will still have to add a switch (tap black wire in fan relay in the tail).
Welcome to the world of V-Twins. Reminds me of my 98 Suzuki TL1000R. Hot as hell. There’s a reason why they called it the TLR (Testies Lightly Roasted).
@@rivernet62 In actuality I would not. The TL1000 and RC51 were specifically built to beat Ducati in racing. The RC51 did it. The TL was virtually unrideable. The SV was a redesign that works in the real world well!
Most people I asked told me the SV1000 is too linear for a Vtwin, and that it kind of does feel like a 4 cylinder( as in smooth and not very grunty) , what do you think ?
Having no odo and temp is an issue. I have a SP1 and baby is it hot, I've seen 220 on a warm day. Going to upgrade the fan to a Spal and also a second one as well. Mabie not as fast as a gsxr but he holds his own next to modern 600s. Oh you forgot to mention the cast iron seat ;) But if your getting on it your hanging off anway! Ride em like ya stole em! Gonzo
@@unclejohn5012 I had to wrap my pipe on my 636 after replacing the fairings and nothing bad ever happened in the 4 years I had the bike. I guess glass rubbing metal can eventually wear but I never had issues.
You should not need to top up brake fluid. Level goes down as pads wear & comes back up when you replace them. If you top it up it will be over filled. As long as it stays between max & min don't mess with it.
Love the video. I'm sure the reason why it runs hot is because of the side mounted radiators. Your buddy's 1000 radiator is forward facing. So the 1000's radiator placement allows for more efficient operation compared to side mounted radiators
@@HeroRR a buddy of mine's RC51 does the same thing and my 07 vfr frequently runs above 200. at about 35-45mph on a hot day (85-90's in North Georgia) it will be at about 210 and about 205 at 60+ mph. idling at intersections or parking lots it gets in the 220's but the fan runs and cools it back down pretty quickly. i agree that the side mounted rads don't help, but there is increased surface area also, so i'm not so sure that is the issue. I would be much more inclined to think it has more to do with being a full fairing bike with the V2 setup. my v4 does the same thing. there just isn't enough airflow to keep temps down. on the other side of things, perhaps the engineers had a reason to keep temps in that range to keep cooling system pressures high.
HeroRR HeroRR you both make pretty good points. I've always been a fan of the RC51, but never owned one. So I'm not too familiar with its idiosyncrasies. But I'm an engineer and a tuner. One thing I can say is no engine is designed to operate at the boiling point of water. I doubt that was the engineer's intent. You do get a little bit of wiggle room since the system is pressurized, but still. When I'm tuning any car or motorcycle on the dyno, I clutch in and let the engine cool when it hits 100 C. I tune a lot of cars in Dubai. And it is HOT over here. With tuning higher horse power cars, I find running Mocool helps big time. There is another chemical called Water Wetter of you can't find Mocool. Completely flush out your cooling system and fill up with straight distilled water. Then add the Mocool. Mocool breaks down the water tension and increases heat transfer ability of the water. I've seen as much as a 15 to 20F drop in coolant temps on 115F days. As to why your VFR doesn't have the same problem, it could be power. The byproduct of power is heat. Does the RC51 make more power than the VFR?
Service and bleed the brakes you will need to remove the caliper and turn it this way and that to be DAMN SURE YOU GET THE AIR OUT. In regards to rectifier the aftermarket parts have cooling fins on them.
I have an acquaintance in Washington state with an RC51 we swapped bikes on a ride I let him ride my old Katana 1100 what I liked about the bike was how light and responsive it felt and the sound compared to my old Katana😃
That hidden brake reservoir is a blessing in disguise, as it does not give fidgety people an opportunity to mess with the motorcycle. Overall, your Honda RC51 is really hard to nitpick on. Cheers!
First wrap the hot pipe, and open a vent for the tail section, and of course the temp running 220 can be bad for an aluminum engine, 190 would be much better, I would look into that. And I would put on a new triple clamp, risers and street fighter bars, now that should do the trick.
Ceramic coat your lower exhaust pipes, wrap them, run Engine Ice coolant, and use fully synthetic oil. All should help reduce engine/exhaust temps that you feel. You can also install a thermostat that kicks on the fan at a lower temp to cool the engine earlier, but there's debate on how much below stock temp you should go on the thermostat. I'd recommend no more than 10 degrees less than the stock thermostat.
I ride one every day would say put some straight bars on it makes it much better. Unless your at the track. And your tune must be way rich watch one of my videos that's what it should sound like. Cool video.
1 Thing I hate about your RC51: The hotbodies undertail. Those two round bugeyes looking back are the worst. On the other hand, the bigass rectifier serves a purpose: when you're removing the tail section, the left tab can "click into" the fins of the rectifier in order to limit the amount of spreading you have to do at any one time (if that makes sense).
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Your temp is up because you aren't riding fast enough. 100 plus will do it.
Damn idk why i didn’t think of that.
@@HeroRR Bro, I wished you could live where I do. You would REALLY love your RC.
Temps are high because the radiators are side mounted and get no air flow. A lot of guys rig a switch to turn them on early. Also make sure all of your fans are working properly and make sure you have good coolant. If the bike has ever been dropped I can bet that the radiators are bent a little hindering coolant flow.
@@onlyoneromeoYup; I've rigged a manual switch to the bars of my VFR800 so i can turn the fan on and off at my discretion. Riding in London it's always on :/
Things i hate about the rc51: i dont own it
Yeah, here's my list:
1.I wish i had one
2.I wish i had one
3.I wish i had one
4.I wish i had one
5.I really wish i owned one
True
Bought my sp1 in April, lost my cowl cover mid summer on the interstate. It's been an amazing bike. I just put a steering damper on unfortunately having to wait till spring to really dial it in.
How to solve the complaints: Start engine. Place in first gear. Slowly release clutch lever. Find long, winding road. Twist throttle. Forget about complaints.
Neil T or just get a Honda super hawk...better set up for the street anyways. RC51 was a scalpel designed to dethrone the Ducati 996 and it succeeded, end of story
It’s a engine and two wheels
Had a 03 myself
It’s a glorious old school vtwin
Just wants to be let free
Ride the dam thing bro
@@robertpowers1045 I’ve got both and you are right about the superhawk being tamer but damn tame isn’t why I bought the RC51.
@@tnelliott2447 On of my early bikes was a first generation Katana. No fuel gauge, no gear position indicator, average brakes and go like hell. All bike no frills.
@@donziperk Sounds exactly like my '00 ZX-9R 😅....
Hero RR, hates 5 things about the RC51
Loves a million other things about RC51
Honestly if you have a speedo and a tach you don't need a gear indicator
With you on that one. I know what gear im in because i learnt how to count and i know how much fuel i have because im blessed with vision and can look in side the tank.
@@scottcrawford2610 lol us old guys grew up on that. Kids these day😁
i must say I don't need or like gauges lol
I like that you answered all of your complaints with the logical solutions.
Also, manage engine temps? Looking at the gauge doesn't cool the engine.
The drain is on the stand side to drain with the angle:)
doubledown because gravity
As it is based on the race variant,,it would be on paddock stands when performing maintenance tasks so it should be level,I don't know why Honda would make it very awkward to change and fill the oil.
The RC series is a rare gem in the motorcycle world, they should make a throwback series of this model.
Definitely not, with how crappy modern takes are of classics... they just need to let the gems shine in their glory.
Drain plug is always on the side of kickstand so it can drain from the lowest point. You don't need to remove the fairings. To fill unscrew the fairing bolt and pull fairing back. Use pliers to crack open the fill cap and use funnel to fill. On the bottom undo the clips that hold the fairings together and pull apart. You don't need to remove them.
Thank you! You’re gonna save me a lot of time. Lol
I bought a new SP2 in 2002, still have it. No rectifier issues, does not run hot (I'm in Florida) Stays between 172 and 190. I think your bike is running way lean. I do wish Honda had used front mounted radiator though, side mounts limits engine mods. Bad points? Weight, side radiators, seat. My modified RC is plenty fast, handles great, just not all that comfortable anymore for my 66 year old body. About 1 hour is all I can take in the seat. Never lost my rear cowl, mine fits flush.
I would suggest a good dyno tune, light battery, remove sound dampening around airbox , gearing change (1up/1down) and the usual flapper/ pair mod to start. Also soft limiter mod. That will transform the bike. After that light wheels, suspension upgrades, SS lines, brembo radial master cylinder.
Everything you found is Cuz Race Bike... It was designed as a race bike by the engineers first, street bike second.. Youve been spoiled by those VFR's and CBR's... Lol
Tdriver1205 said CBR will crush it. Cause racebike yo.
Add a computer fan to the Rectifier. Minimal weight, 3D print a shroud
I like you as we think totally alike.
sometimes i find myself in my garage just looking at my RC. Ive had mine for a while and i love it more every season
Starring at it while it sits is like riding it in full throttle.😅👌🏼
@@johnjerizlopezignacio3891 Yup mines in my shop and all winter it makes me work harder so I can ride more come summer. Great motivator.
A couple of ideas...you can purchase Spal pusher fans and mount them to each radiator. Additionally, there are carbon fiber air scoops that are mounted between the fairing, and radiator to draw moving air into the radiators. You could also switch to engine ice, water wetter, or Evans those are all pretty decent fluids to reduce operating temps. You could get a full ecu reflash, and have the fans come on at a lower temp. And, if you wanna go full baller status, you could buy the radiator relocation kit. This also helps you lose weight, because you only have one radiator, but its centralized in the traditional location, so you would be getting a lot more air thru, and around the rad. Phew.....! You should be able to find all these tips, tricks, and maybe parts on the Rogue51 forum. Enjoy!
But either way the RC51 is an amazing bike
Because it’s Honda
On the hot temp, I had that problem. My friend that races his told me to use distilled water and appropriate amount of water wetter per gallon. It's awesome. I always ran 100 degrees Fahrenheit over ambient temperature. And yes when it hits 210 the fans kick in and actually cools the bike even in stop start traffic
My bikes don’t even go over 100c in Sydney traffic in the summer. Good coolant and tbe fans kick in about 90 something. 104c while running is ridiculous, should be sitting in 80s no problem. Sorry for Celsius but you can google lol.
These things are awesome. My buddy had one growing up. Was my favorite bike to ride. They sound sooooo cool
The only legit complaints about her is her weight and how hot she runs. I live in san Antonio texas so, I removed the thermostat! It made a HUGE difference, she now runs at 178 degrees on the highway. Low 200s in traffic. TAKE YOUR THERMOSTAT OUT, ITS NOT LIKE YOUR GOING TO RIDE HER IN THE MASS WINTER. TAKE OUT THE THERMOSTAT BRO IM TELLING YOU.
That's a really sharp looking bike. I have always hated digital temperature gauges. As long as it isn't overheating, it is fine. Most cars and motorcycles do not number their gauges and put a normal temperature range on the face. When I had my 2000 VFR, I saw a lot of people going crazy because the coolant was over 212F. Cooling systems are pressurized and can take more than 212F. I think that the VFR got upset up around 245-250F and something started flashing. My Z1000 doesn't even have a temp gauge. Never cared about gear position indicators because I ride the bike in a rev range. I don't lug my bikes and want them to be able to pull away. If the bike is revving too high, I shift up and if the bike is revving too low, I shift down.
Sold mine 3 years ago. Regret it almost daily.
Sold my 04 in 2007 and regret it every single day as well
Sold mine back in 09 or so I believe, miss it. His issues are minor
Honda really needs to bring back bikes like the RC51 and SuperHawk in a modern version. Would appeal to younger riders and old (nostalgia).
As much as I want it to happen so bad I know they will screw it up and it will probably look like shit and sound like shit too because of the emissions controls. There is just something about these old graphics on these old Japanese bikes. They look perfectly timeless. There are rumours going on that there will be a new v4 from Honda to compete against Aprilia and Ducati we'll see. I love Honda very very much but they are just not that special anymore. They are all just inline 4s smh
The vfr800 also...only in a lightweight streetfighter, and a second supersport CBR fairing ish styled version....rather than that touring bike crap they did from 03+. I love my 97 VFR750
drain on the left side as the bike leans to that side?,header wrap the left side link pipe to reduce heat radiating,defo swap the volt reg for a mosfet they run a lot colder, I have a low budget vtr1000 drag bike motor tuned to rc51 power
sp1's and 2 are so expensive they have become a cult classic and way out of my 'fun toy' price range
I may be wrong but I recall reading valentino rossi said the sp1 (possibly the 2?)
was his favourite factory stock production bike ?
I can see why. The bike is AMAZING. i would do a top x things i love about the rc51. But it would probably be a hour long video 😂😂
It maybe a dumb question but if you only had to have one bike, would it be this beauty or the VFR800?
I have 2001 hornet 600 I had issues with it getting to hot . What I did was got a actual racing radiator . Flushed out the coolant and runs a lot better and stays cooler . Love your videos look forward to the next one
Proud owner of the Kentucky Kid edition here.
She’s a keeper.
I'm sure you've heard of it, but if you put redline water wetter in your coolant it may help your temperature issues. I know it works well with cars, not familiar enough with motorcycles to know if it would work as well.
Thanks for the suggestion!
@@HeroRR I have also though about water wetter for my vfr but just be aware that there have been conflicting reports about its success. if you do decide to run it, make sure that your coolant has corrosion resistant additives in it and do a bit of research about the different results due to different water to coolant mixtures. I'm certainly not saying that you shouldn't use it though. I am also trying to decide myself now that i've seen other opinions is all.
@@AustinConnell One thing to be aware of is how accurate the temp gauge really is. I got suspicious of mine and using an infrared thermometer found it wasn’t running as hot as I thought.
consumption would be my only major problem dude! gas is extremelly expensive in greece
I had the Nicky Hayden edition. I loved many things about it but in the end it was too heavy, it ran too hot for me and it was too impractical to perform maintenance procedures on. I think I should have only used it for the track like it was meant for. It was the most beautiful bike I’ve ever ridden and owned though.
It does have a gear indicator. When the Neutral light goes out it's in gear!
I just watched this and wondered why this was a complaint? Gear indicators are completely unnecessary. What ever did people do without gear indicators over the last 100+ years of cycles?
@@retom7 Right, Become the bike. feel the bike. Be one with the bike. Let go Luke, trust your feelings. Yoda says, "Gear indicator, Hmph! Speedometer, Hmph! A true Rider needs not these things! LOL Anyway, More RC51 Videos Please! Love the channel
@@ryancoulter3755 Speedometers do keep you from getting tickets...if they were accurate. Mine are always optimistic, which is annoying. I definitely agree on the gear indicator. Ride the bike at an rpm that allows the bike to accelerate if necessary. Top gear on the highway for gas mileage. Oh, forgot it was an RV51. Gas mileage is never great.
If you want more air flow to the rectifier/regulator I am sure you can think of a way to do it.
My 2013 CB500F doesnt have a gear indicatior, and its driving me nuts.
I constantly have to count shifts or remember how much rpm i have on what speed.
get one off ebay. I got one for my CBR600RR.
Just sold my sp2 a few days ago. All your complaints are spot on! Other than that I loved it.
Sad day, hopefully you’re replacing it with something cool :-)
@@HeroRR R1 Crossplane plane plane plane.
Gay Complaints
You ever try installing a vapor gauge?
Literally just finished a 1 month review on an SP1 for my channel. I loved it so much I just bought a Castrol liveried SP1 for myself ♥️
i'm pretty sure all rc51's have that trunk lid issue. I know at least 3 of my buddies have had issues with it not latching all the way. this is the case with both the cover and the seat version of that lid. I will ask around at pigfest in a couple months to see if anyone has found a solution. Speaking of which, idk where you're located (sounds and looks sort of northish), but you should come out to pigfest in August if you aren't too far. tons of RC51's on the dragon. I'll be on my vfr though chasing/passing those bastards in comfort lol.
I get it this is a race bike, but
basically the entire video.
My 02 VFR800 get so hot especially during summer like in 220° while at the stop light. Then drops to like 190° once I start riding.
I have a 2000 RC51 with about 55,000 miles. I bought it new in April of 2000, and I have never had a rectifier issue going on nearly 20 years on the original. On my 97 VFR yes, but not the RC. You must be standing at stoplights in hot weather to hit 220 degrees because even at a very average speed the temp should quickly drop into the 180 range. I get an average of about 42 mpg. I just ran a tank completely empty at 179 miles so that is how far a tank will go doing highway miles anyways. My frustration is aimed at the hard to see "Low Fuel" indicator in certain lighting conditions, Honda could have made it a bit more obvious. Other than that, your high pipes are to blame for the hot ankles as I haven't experienced any crazy heat from my titanium Moriwaki pipes (not routed as high as yours but higher than stock). I truly love my RC51! Keep up the cool vids!
@weldingblaster1 It is a bit snatchy, but over time you get used to it. If I need to I just bump it up a gear and use the low revs to help smooth it out a bit. Pulls from 1500 rpm so it is easy to do. I don't run a Power Commander so all is stock but the pipes.
This might be my bike now has those pipes has 87k miles. 2024
Guy quoted 42mpg.carbon fiber heat shield for heal heat
heat wrap ? to keep your feet from burning up.. worth it, what do you think ?
Okay, given all of the pre-qualifications which you repeat often enough, the key ones being: fantastic bike, love this bike and race bike...I'll assume the bike is not for sale.
1) Fluids changes on a race bike had better be frequent and so you remove all the plastic anyway. It makes perfect sense to drain oil on the low side and add it on the high side.
2) Rear brake fluid reservoir access. There should be no need to access the reservoir between fluid changes. If it's leaking fluid, fix the leak.
3) Runs hot. Does it run within the factory specified operating range? If it does then it isn't running hot and if it doesn't get it fixed so that it runs within the factory specified range.
4) Mileage sucks, OMG it's a race bike! And, why would anyone want to do 130 nonstop miles in the saddle of most any sport bike let alone a race bike.
5) Exhaust heat on your ankle. I'd ask where you'd have the Honda engineers route the pipe? I suggest adding a heat shield either to the pipe or your ankle...LOL.
6) The rectifier issue is a good one to be aware of...thanks!
7) Loctite the rear cowl access hold down bolt as you suggest.
It's not fast enough! Are you serious? Fast enough for what? If you can ride it at it's limits on a race track as it was designed to be ridden, don't worry there are plenty of faster motorcycles to choose from and you'll get a handsome sum of money for your increasingly rare RC51.
Thanks for the review.
I have an SP-1 in Moriwaki trim. God I love the gear driven cam whir/whine sound...can't wait to ride her again.
i thought it was annoying that i couldn't display temperature and the clock at the same time on my 2002 ninja 636, but not seeing the tripometer and the temp at the same time, especially on a bike that tends to run hot and not sip but gulp fuel like crazy would be a major concern to me.
I see a gear indicator, did you add that? I would put a heat shield on the exhaust to stop that heat, I had to put one on my Busa and you can find some nice looking ones... (the exhaust was melting the heal on my boot)
I just put some shields on my goldwing because the heat from the left cyl. head was cooking my ankle.
Yeah i added the gear indicator. I’ll look into a heat shield, thanks for the suggestion!
Do you think a tune would help the bike run cooler? Possibilty of it running lean?maybe even have the fans turn on sooner.
That definitely could be some of it.
@@HeroRR rc51 is definitely one of my favorite bike and I have no idea why I like them so much.
On my gsx650f I need to remove both fairings to access the oil filter with an oil filtet wrench. Also, I took my bike on a 6 hour long ride on the interstate and I needed to stop every 100 miles because I was getting pretty uncomfortable. I could ride 150 to 175 miles before empty but I wouldn't want to on a long trip. For day to day riding it would be annoying to fill up though I bet.
I've had my VTR sp-2 (that's what they're called here in the UK),for almost 2 1/2 years and have never had a problem with overheating,but then again UK bikes are fitted with a separate temperature gauge.;-).Regarding the rectifier,that was one of the first things I replaced,I fitted one from a Yamaha R1 which has cooling fins and have had no probkems.
We should link up some time. I'm right in New Hampshire and have a 6th Gen vfr and a sp1 rc51 much like you! Well, getting the rvt tomorrow but I have high hopes for it.
Nice bike ,but we need more videos about the VFR
Get the reverse scoops for the radiators or get a front mount radiator. Both help with the temps. I live in St Pete and did a lot of stop and go which the bike hates... never had a problem. If you get the scoops make sure they are backwards (opposite of a scoop)
You don’t want a rear brake reservoir anyways... remove it and replace it with a tube only. Take your tube high enough to fill it.
My RC51 did not heat my legs/ankles I had a stock exhaust. I lived in Florida too... can’t remember if the stock bike had heat shields but you can get aftermarket shields... they don’t weigh a damn thing... I needed one for my one of my Ninja’s.
I’ve never cared for a gear indicator they don’t matter and you can buy them. When the RPMs are low you shift when they are high you shift. You can feel first and should know your in 6th. I guess I drove mine daily year long so I was used to it but... I had other bike with gear indicators I never ever looked at them. Don’t even need a neutral indicator.
I bought mine brand new in 2006 loved it until someone loved it more and borrowed it permanently while I was sleeping.
My RC is super modified. The only thing that is stock... Fuel Tank , Frame, some of the wiring. I"d like to pop a pic and share the fun. Perhaps will do a review.
I've owned half a dozen motorcycles, one which was a Honda that handled great, looked and sounded fantastic as well, and was easy to work on. This Honda looks and sounds fantastic as well, and I was thinking about buying one, but this video is exactly what I needed to steer me back to something simple and more convenient.
Buy one but beware of the high maintenance
@@blakeolinger1220 How would you compare the maintenance on this bike with your Honda VFR 800? I've heard people usually don't do much more than change the oil and filter and tires and they'll still run over 100k miles.
I used to have this exact same bike only with Yoshi’s instead. I miss it so much. I started watching videos and got to day dreaming about buying one again. Then you started talking about how hot it gets. For some reason I don’t remember that about mine but now I’m like man... do I want one if they get so hot like that. Ugh... is it really that bad?? I don’t know why I can’t remember that about mine. I only had it for about 6 months
Is that a race bike?
V twins run hotter? My v-twin 1L goes to 100C/~215F max while being air cooled. You sure you don't have a problem with your coolant?
How are you measuring the temp? Oil temps can go higher and head temps definitely go higher.
The high coolant temps are likely emissions related. It’s relatively common with some cars.
I had a 96 Z28 and the factory settings for the cooling fans were ridiculous... turn on low speed at 215F and high speed at over 220F.
Does the RC51 use a repurposed engine, or did Honda design the engine to be used on another model besides the RC51? I don't know these answers, just wondering if this is why the oil access is put there. Also, you may want to change out your temp sending unit, just to see if that is why your engine temp reads high. It will probably not matter, but may be a cheap fix if it does. Love the videos, would be cool to see something on the smaller class commuter bikes such as the CBR300R if you are so inclined. Thanks!
What is the Name of the exhaust? And where I can find some good parts for the bike. Google doesnt provide many infos
Sato Racing Exhaust. Racetorx sells good parts for the RC
For the rectifier issue make that hole bigger and put another hole on the otherside. Easy way to get more air flow back there. Alos that parking lot looks like every other parking lot in MA lol
It's always hard to roast your fav bike, but thanks for the try haha, nice vid as always 😎
I dunno, I’ve had my RC for 12 years now... same rectifier. She’s an 03.
My 06 1000rr use to run 225-227 until i got an ecu flash. The fan comes on sooner also i put an aluminum tig welded radiator in. Now i dont get over 206 on a hot day otherwise im 187-195
1992 CBR 600F2
1997 Ninja ZX6R
2001 RVT 1000R RC51
2004 GSXR 750
2007 GSXR 1000
2009 R1
My RC51 is the only bike I regret selling...
When the fuel air mixture is close to perfect, it runs hot. Learned from an old air force mechanic.
Your average bike runs rich to keep cool, yours however runs as close to perfect air fuel due to being a race bike. It was designed that way.
My vfr runs hot aswell and that's definitely not a race bike.
Hot just means stoicheometric/ lean more than anything else.
Besides that's burn temps not operating temperatures. The engine runs hot because honda designed it too. And probably largely because of the side radiators aswell.
@@samuelcurran714 ur forgetting the Chock Full o Nuts size pistons those combustion chambers het up a plenty. RC 30'S and RC 45's are the same. Joey Dunlops 800cc v4 at the IOM in 1980 ran hot till he went out on the course. Also the engine has to have an operating temp for the fuel injection to work properly at street speeds.
It would be nice if you could another carbon fiber rim for the rear. Would look SICK... Expensive though. Thanks for sharing. No gear indicator though? Can see the gear number in red in your vids, lol...
Replace one fan with a spal 30103013 5.2" Paddle Blade Pusher Fan (then you will have a push-pull) to keep it from going OVER 220 ever. With the stock pull-pull setup, the faster you ride the more the fans fight natural air flow. After overheating at road Atlanta I switched to a push-push, then I started overheating in traffic lol, so now one push one pull is perfect. Also fans don't turn on until 220, so if you want lower temps you will still have to add a switch (tap black wire in fan relay in the tail).
Were you in saint Andrews New Brunswick today?
Saw the same bike and couldn’t tell if it was yours or not
“Excellent bike”. Must be the understatement of the century 😂 😂
What's the metal bar infront of the handlebar for? Like crashing or airflow?
Nikola Ger it’s called a fairing stay. It gives the nose strength.
@@ianmason2003 thanks mate interesting
Welcome to the world of V-Twins. Reminds me of my 98 Suzuki TL1000R. Hot as hell. There’s a reason why they called it the TLR (Testies Lightly Roasted).
I like the RC51, but my SV1000s fixes most of those problems. Except a fuel gauge or gear indicator.
I miss my SV 😢
@@rivernet62
I only bought mine because the insurance was cheaper than the RC51. I haven't regretted my decision since 2003!
Don’t we call Ducatis “expensive SV knockoffs?” 🤣😁
@@rivernet62
In actuality I would not. The TL1000 and RC51 were specifically built to beat Ducati in racing. The RC51 did it. The TL was virtually unrideable. The SV was a redesign that works in the real world well!
Most people I asked told me the SV1000 is too linear for a Vtwin, and that it kind of does feel like a 4 cylinder( as in smooth and not very grunty) , what do you think ?
Spal fan mod…. I have the Radiator scoops and spal fans and I never see over 210 while sitting and 190 moving…
Having no odo and temp is an issue. I have a SP1 and baby is it hot, I've seen 220 on a warm day. Going to upgrade the fan to a Spal and also a second one as well. Mabie not as fast as a gsxr but he holds his own next to modern 600s. Oh you forgot to mention the cast iron seat ;) But if your getting on it your hanging off anway!
Ride em like ya stole em!
Gonzo
what are those bars around the handle bars called and what do they do
It's called a "Fairing Stay"...It's the only production bike with them, Because Race Bike!!! Easy to polish too!!!
Are the wheels different front and rear? Can you give the info on those wheels bro they look good!
OEM wheels
The last 30 seconds made everything you said before that sound like "blah blah blah". That bike sounds INCREDIBLE!!!!
I just picked one but, and yes the rear brakes do suck lol. Oil change was a pain
You could wrap that part of the pipe with fiberglass tape.
Over time the wrap will destroy the pipe.
@@unclejohn5012 I had to wrap my pipe on my 636 after replacing the fairings and nothing bad ever happened in the 4 years I had the bike. I guess glass rubbing metal can eventually wear but I never had issues.
You should not need to top up brake fluid. Level goes down as pads wear & comes back up when you replace them. If you top it up it will be over filled. As long as it stays between max & min don't mess with it.
Love the video. I'm sure the reason why it runs hot is because of the side mounted radiators. Your buddy's 1000 radiator is forward facing. So the 1000's radiator placement allows for more efficient operation compared to side mounted radiators
That definitely could be part of it. Although my VFR has side radiators and doesn’t have heat issues. Hmm 🤔
@@HeroRR a buddy of mine's RC51 does the same thing and my 07 vfr frequently runs above 200. at about 35-45mph on a hot day (85-90's in North Georgia) it will be at about 210 and about 205 at 60+ mph. idling at intersections or parking lots it gets in the 220's but the fan runs and cools it back down pretty quickly. i agree that the side mounted rads don't help, but there is increased surface area also, so i'm not so sure that is the issue. I would be much more inclined to think it has more to do with being a full fairing bike with the V2 setup. my v4 does the same thing. there just isn't enough airflow to keep temps down. on the other side of things, perhaps the engineers had a reason to keep temps in that range to keep cooling system pressures high.
HeroRR HeroRR you both make pretty good points. I've always been a fan of the RC51, but never owned one. So I'm not too familiar with its idiosyncrasies. But I'm an engineer and a tuner. One thing I can say is no engine is designed to operate at the boiling point of water. I doubt that was the engineer's intent. You do get a little bit of wiggle room since the system is pressurized, but still. When I'm tuning any car or motorcycle on the dyno, I clutch in and let the engine cool when it hits 100 C. I tune a lot of cars in Dubai. And it is HOT over here. With tuning higher horse power cars, I find running Mocool helps big time. There is another chemical called Water Wetter of you can't find Mocool. Completely flush out your cooling system and fill up with straight distilled water. Then add the Mocool. Mocool breaks down the water tension and increases heat transfer ability of the water. I've seen as much as a 15 to 20F drop in coolant temps on 115F days. As to why your VFR doesn't have the same problem, it could be power. The byproduct of power is heat. Does the RC51 make more power than the VFR?
Service and bleed the brakes you will need to remove the caliper and turn it this way and that to be DAMN SURE YOU GET THE AIR OUT. In regards to rectifier the aftermarket parts have cooling fins on them.
Why do you add brake fluid?
I have an acquaintance in Washington state with an RC51 we swapped bikes on a ride I let him ride my old Katana 1100 what I liked about the bike was how light and responsive it felt and the sound compared to my old Katana😃
That hidden brake reservoir is a blessing in disguise, as it does not give fidgety people an opportunity to mess with the motorcycle. Overall, your Honda RC51 is really hard to nitpick on. Cheers!
I think they do inherently run hot, but if you get it tuned on a dyno and fatten up the fueling it will cool down a bit.
The dual faring removal would be a bit of a PITA, roaring fun bike, minimal gages needed I guess, looks beautiful nice job on the various upgrades.
I don't get bored when you talk, even when you talk too much, i love listening to you
Thank you! :)
Same here
First wrap the hot pipe, and open a vent for the tail section, and of course the temp running 220 can be bad for an aluminum engine, 190 would be much better, I would look into that. And I would put on a new triple clamp, risers and street fighter bars, now that should do the trick.
I would definitely heat wrap the hot foot pipe area it would actually be racing inspired and correct as well as cheap and not intrusive to the pipe
how come you say it has no gear indicator when it does....? it's right there on the left of ur MPH
I think he means stock but this bike is from a different era and isn’t a Gsxr where they place in the tach lol
It's a keeper like the 954rr, buy them now when cheap, got a 2004 Nicky Hayden. Blackbird will also be worth something.
Ceramic coat your lower exhaust pipes, wrap them, run Engine Ice coolant, and use fully synthetic oil. All should help reduce engine/exhaust temps that you feel. You can also install a thermostat that kicks on the fan at a lower temp to cool the engine earlier, but there's debate on how much below stock temp you should go on the thermostat. I'd recommend no more than 10 degrees less than the stock thermostat.
Fuel gauge issue is agreeable. Rest is all something you got to accept and adapt my friend 🙂 Ride hard ✌️
Still looking for my rc51, found one in Atlanta, but they wanted to much for 2005 with 8400 miles. 8k
How does the RC51 stand up to a CBR 1000rr??
In a straight line? Not well... On the track? I'd pick the RC. The RC51 is between a 600 and a 1000 when it comes to strait line acceleration.
The tuning is okay as long as it isn't stumbling anywhere in the rpms. That's a cool old bike dude!
How to tell that a guy has a race bike? Don’t worry, he will tell you ;)
Lol I’m sorry 😂
I ride one every day would say put some straight bars on it makes it much better. Unless your at the track. And your tune must be way rich watch one of my videos that's what it should sound like. Cool video.
My 98 Tl1000R sits at 183 at any moving speed. I get about 130 miles before my light comes on and its geared lower.
1 Thing I hate about your RC51: The hotbodies undertail. Those two round bugeyes looking back are the worst.
On the other hand, the bigass rectifier serves a purpose: when you're removing the tail section, the left tab can "click into" the fins of the rectifier in order to limit the amount of spreading you have to do at any one time (if that makes sense).
Who uses the rear brake?