Wow, JD, this is downright fiddly stuff and your patience goes deep. Nice work! One wonders how much the old timers cared about beat error, other than getting centres lined up when power was off. Or if they could even detect it.
Fantastic !!!! this work is fantastically time consuming. I remove hairspring stud every time so I have better access to hairspring collet, which adds to time but I find that i have better control.
I really need to build some kind of a jig that supports the balance while I adjust the collet. What I really worry about here is damaging the hairspray as I remove the balance from the watch each time I attempt an adjustment. What I do like with the microscope is to be able to see where the arm of the pallet fork is in relation to the banking pins. This lets me know whether I need to move the collet left or right. The end result was excellent.
I have had luck adjusting the beat error down to 1.0ms with out removing the hairspring stud. When I want a sub 0.5ms I need to remove the stud the amount to rotation needed it just to tiny.
@@JDRichardReleasing the hairspring stud while balance is in watch allows removal of balance cock then removal of Balance without any danger. My methods usually are more time consuming. But I’m assured of fewer mishaps.
I would have changed the mainspring, the old one looks weak. It might have helped to speed up the watch. It is dangerous to mess with the meantime screws. It could affect the trueness of the balance.
The power from the mainspring was great. The regulator pins needed a lot of work and yes, you’re right, playing with the meantime screws is usually not recommended unless you completely poise the balance again.
Wow, JD, this is downright fiddly stuff and your patience goes deep. Nice work! One wonders how much the old timers cared about beat error, other than getting centres lined up when power was off. Or if they could even detect it.
@@Mars-zgblbl I think the pros back in the days did care about beat error as these watches had to meet the railroad specs.
Thanks
Thanks, JD. I’ve learned new things!
Hey cool, glad I could help
Fantastic !!!! this work is fantastically time consuming. I remove hairspring stud every time so I have better access to hairspring collet, which adds to time but I find that i have better control.
I really need to build some kind of a jig that supports the balance while I adjust the collet. What I really worry about here is damaging the hairspray as I remove the balance from the watch each time I attempt an adjustment. What I do like with the microscope is to be able to see where the arm of the pallet fork is in relation to the banking pins. This lets me know whether I need to move the collet left or right. The end result was excellent.
I have had luck adjusting the beat error down to 1.0ms with out removing the hairspring stud. When I want a sub 0.5ms I need to remove the stud the amount to rotation needed it just to tiny.
@@JDRichardReleasing the hairspring stud while balance is in watch allows removal of balance cock then removal of Balance without any danger. My methods usually are more time consuming. But I’m assured of fewer mishaps.
You said the S word I said the crap word and someone got all upset with that gee could not handle the truth . Good education stuff with the Hamilton .
@@tonyaxeman4381 IM SURE I WANTED TO SAY MORE THAN THE S WORD
Great video, thanks!
Thanks Darin, appreciate the compliment
I would have changed the mainspring, the old one looks weak. It might have helped to speed up the watch. It is dangerous to mess with the meantime screws. It could affect the trueness of the balance.
The power from the mainspring was great. The regulator pins needed a lot of work and yes, you’re right, playing with the meantime screws is usually not recommended unless you completely poise the balance again.
What is the range of amplitude that is acceptable?
@@Aikidobear129 I think if you can get between 220 and 260 you are good. Really depends on the grade of the movement.
@@JDRichard Thank You!