Parrot AR Drone 2.0 - Repair Part 1 of 4 - Remove Central Cross to Replace - Step by Step
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Part 1 of 4. Topic = Parrot AR Drone 2.0 - Replacement of the Central Cross PF070036
This is a detailed video where I first remove and then replace a broken Central Cross.
It takes circa 120+ minutes all in (to the point you can fly again). I explain what tools and parts you need and then talk through step-by-step how to perform the removal and then the new part instal.
I created this video with the RUclips Video Editor ( / editor )
Both the ribbon cables are held in place with the remaining part of the 'clip' and it works and flies fine!
There is enough friction that when you put the clip back in - it doesn't really need both side clasps.
I have flown (and posted many vids) since this repair. Good luck with your repair! I hope this helps.
I found this series of videos very detailed and extremely helpful. The only suggestion I have is one I found a short video on elsewhere. To safely and easily remove the ZIF connector for the front camera (the one sandwiched between the two halves of the motherboard), also remove the Phillips head screws holding the left side of the motherboard to the frame. The motherboard then easily comes apart at a single hard connector and the ribbon is freely accessible without being bent or pinched.
As you allude to in your text comments at 4:42, ease the black portion of the ZIF connector just "slightly" out of the white socket by applying a little pressure at each end. It does not have to move much to release the ribbon and should stay attached to the white socket. Without being angled through the slot in the motherboard, the ribbon cable slips easily out of the connector once the black clip is loosened.
UPDATE: The "hard connector" is not that "hard". After a couple of central cross repairs, which required me to separate the motherboard, the connector pulled loose from the motherboard. It's hard to see that this has happened, but if you reassemble your drone and get a PIC WATCHDOG EMERGENCY message, there's a good change it's that connector. It is a surface mount connector and does not attach with pins that go through the board. I was not able to resolder it onto the board. Use extreme care working with this connector and try to only disconnect and reconnect it once. Keep pressure on it when plugging the boards back together so the female side can't be forced loose from the board. Install the Phillips screws again so the motherboard has support from the frame.
For reassembly once your cross is back in place, the camera cable WILL reach without going through the slot. Attach the nav board cable first, then the camera cable. For each, simply slide the ribbon straight into the connector and lock the black retainer back in place. This routing of the camera cable is not ideal, but it's better than having to buy a new motherboard because of a broken board connector.
Otherwise, your videos gave me great piece of mind as I performed this repair! Thank you!
+Marv Hein Many thanks for adding such detailed and thoughfull comments. I did indeed make a mess of the ZIF connectors!
Glad to know this still helped you and you have now added to that information for people facing the same challenge!
Thanks for this video! This was a lot of fun replacing the cross and motors. I was able to get the connectors off the board by moving them out to the stops, then inserting a fine point tweezer in the gap and this forces the arms out a little. I reinstalled all the motors, the unit went "green" immediately and I hit "take off" , the unit immediately crashed and broke a gear on the motor...it was cracked before I'm sure. I'd recommend ordering a gear and propeller kit with the cross just to save time.
also, as mentioned above, a fine point tweezer is very helpful positioning these tiny screws. I also did disassembly over a small box, definitely caught some screws headed for the floor.
You take excellent care explaining all the steps, but once you start this whole process of replacing the cross just takes 15minutes. The motors take a few minutes each, label everything.
Tim Schorer glad my series of videos helped and thanks also for your tips.
Nice work Tom. I learning experience for all. I quite certain I broke my central cross and will be performing the same type of repair, but before I do I've been watch videos like yours. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your advice. I wish I knew that before I started this repair!
(when I watched the Parrot video - It looked like they removed them using tools. So I followed their lead. The Parrot video has so little details and is so rushed I know why I went wrong.)
With your better information and others - I hope others manage to avoid the two clip snaps I had.
But they still act as wedges and my AR drone works fine! So no harm done!
Tom--thanks. Very nicely done and a great help in fixing the crossbar. I removed the broken one, glued it with heavy-duty epoxy and used three zip ties to hold anything in place should it break again. Put the bar back and will watch how it flies, before I switch to new part, which could just as easily break.
Thanks Paul. That adds some great detail. (Only wish I had known before! The Parrot video shows very little details & I did my best)
Hope all this helps people when tackling this type of repair for themselves.
& than you for taking the time to give feedback. :)
Sorry to hear about your crash. Whilst they are pretty tough, they are prone to 'Falling out of the sky' ! :(
Glad you liked the video and found it useful. Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback :D
Luckily I was able to repair the cross-brace rather than replace. Have a spare now at least.
One observation that I found was that it was easier to remove the bottom camera from the mounting than it was to risk damaging the pins.
Thank you for the clear instruction & advice.
Ahh - I see... Yes - The clips only broke on one side. They both now have only a single clip point. But they fit in snug with their cables and connectors and all works fine :)
Good to hear that your repair also went well and that you are flying again :D
After about 10 years i finally got my AR out of the attic and started fixing it. Actually waiting 10 years on a half hour fix xD
Ouch that you had a bad crash. I plan to get down to Donnington Castle come the spring. BTW - I broke my central cross filming around Nottingham Castle!
I am playing safe and waiting for the first signs of dry warm weekend before heading out this year. I plan a bushings to bearings upgrade that I will video and comment on any improvements.
Thanks for this, since early on in it's life (1st week intact) my drone has been erratic and one prop kept hitting the housing, never seemed to hover stable and only now when I was about to bin it did I find your video. Cross member in 3 pieces!!! Hopefully problem solved. $60 for tools + crossmember = $300 saved on written off drone. Thanks again.
I am glad you Liked it & found it useful. Glad sharing my repair has helped you get your AR Drone back in the air flying! :)
I totalled my AR drone chassis, found this video and managed to restore it back to new.
Thank you!
+Michael Davies Glad you found this video repair segment helpful. Happy flying!
Tom Strong Reviews hey Tom? Where do you get your tools to take off the propellers because those tools didn't come with my drone
I now know that those little connectors are call ZIF (zero insertion force) type. They have a little section of a different colour on their leading edge (the part facing the ribbon cable). This pulls out just slightly away from the connector body. They only come out a millimetre or so, so be careful. Once they have pulled out, the ribbon comes out without any force.
A lot of people who have now watched this found that by being more careful and slow - they avoided the breaks!
Good Luck!
Yay! Good to hear that you are flying again :)
Glad that my videos managed to help a fellow AR Drone flyer.
Glad it was of some help :D
I have also 'fashioned' a repair of my broken one - in case I break my new one. Similar idea, but I also added 2 washers above & below, 4 zip ties tightening them into a compression type joint. (I might make a video to show later this summer)
I hope that by sharing my experiences (and problems!) that others can benefit...
Totally agree with you regarding those connectors. They are 'poorly engineered' - This is meant to be a unit that you fully repair 'at home' and it is fiddly to say the least.
Glad it helped get you flying again! + Thank you for your feedback :D
Tried to get some good images of the top of Donnington Castle at the weekend on a slightly windy day.
Looks like I'll be making use of that spare central cross after all!
Thank you again, will be checking out a fair few of your videos on this form.
Thank you. I am no 'expert' & I say so on my 'Channel' - I just share what I do & learn & think. If that is in any way useful. Great! :D
I am so very happy that I have had messages from people who also struggled with the Parrot videos. Even though some parts of this repair did not go 10/10 - others that watch it can see what to do & consider their next steps.
BTW - My AR Drone flew First Time after this repair. It flies really well & I have not had to do anything to it since!
Finally :)))) my drone is back in game :) Your videos are more than useful.... For guy with similar problem: C Front left, A front right, C Rear right, A rear left.... Thanks
My AR Drone is all repaired & flies better than ever. But I do take on board your comments. Fortunately for me & my Drone - I have very dry skin. You have clearly had to do this repair yourself. As with all things - you learn from doing. This was my first time and I find the Parrot videos next to useless as they are way to fast & show no real detail. Certainly I saw / read no mention of a 'clip' removal tool.
Your comments will further improve this task for others. Sharing is a good thing :)
I just wedged the broken clips back into place with the one damaged leg and they seemed fairly secure. My AR Drone flies just fine. If you do use a glue - find one that can be easily removed. Like the type companies use on the front of magazines when they stick 'free' CDs to the front covers.
I am glad you found it useful & Liked it. Good luck with your repair!
Great video! Thanks to you I've repaired the central cross myself. I did a flip at 2 feet high and it felt on one of the arms and broke. After watching your video's several times I repaired it just like you did. Otherwise I had to pay €40 repaircosts. So thanks again! PS see my flight here in the French Alps AR drone 2.0 flying in the French Alps! :).
I am really glad my video series helped get you flying and saved you some money! :)
Re- Your video - what a wonderful location for a flight btw! Such clear skies and views. :D
You are most welcome! Be very careful when removing the black cable clips. I wish you luck!
I think that it would be a great contribution. Parrot seems to have a business model based heavily on selling replacement parts. If you can show others how to keep their drones flying with a fixed up crossbar, maybe they will work harder on making a sturdier drone in the future.
Great to know you are all fixed and flying!
+ Thank you for the tip.
Then you have nothing to loose. Try to repair. If not, then buy and replace.
Try soldering it back on. But be mindful that you need to be careful of the heat so it doesn't transfer further up into the motherboard circuitry. I recommend using something like crocodile clip to attach to the components / board just upstream from where you will be soldering to absorb the heat. Good Luck!
helpful video! mine just fell from 70 metres n snapped a leg but rest assured ur video has enlightened me! cheers matey :)
Great video; currently got the required parts on order for a similar break.
Thanks!
It was rather stubborn and seemed to either be 'securely in' or 'out & snapped clip'.
This was my first time doing this - it was a learning experience. I found the Parrot videos next to useless as they are way to fast & show no real detail.
Your comment will further enhance this exercise for others.
Thank you for taking the time to comment. :)
Great tutorial, TBH i was a bit afraid i could not do this bit i did surprisingly well!
thanks again
The reason I made this was because the 'Official Video' was frustratingly quick and had no step by step commentary.
Even though I made mistakes - It still shows everyone what needs to be done and I am glad you liked it and found it useful. Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback :D
Thank you very much! I was learning as I was doing - but I was also finding that the 'Official' ones are way to fast and no commentary !
(Rest assured - as I crash and break things - I will video my repairs!!)
I am glad you find them useful - Thanks again for your feedback and comments. To get the best out of this hobby - it is all about sharing our experiences. Good and Bad. :D
Testing indoors is always a good idea - you can exclude topics such as cross-winds.
However - Other things can affect flight / hovering such as 'warped' props or 'Warped' Shafts.
If you had a serious crash - you need to consider checking all 4 Props and 4 Pins. (I show this in other videos on my channel).
Q. When you record video whilst hovering indoors. Does the Video show any evidence of 'Jello' / 'Jelly' wobble ??
I agree with you. For it to break so 'cleanly' - it is a design flaw.
ok - I will make the video. Just need to dig it out again.
Thanks for the feedback. Does the Drone always fly to one side ? or just 'out of control' ??
Possibly the ribbon edge connectors need to be removed and re-seated. Also worth double checking that the downward facing camera is aligned ok with the hole in the hull.
+ make some tests. Will the AR Drone still notice it when you tilt the drone ? hold Drone, start to take off and then flip it over. Does it say 'Tilt emergency' ? still ???
If you mean the 'black plastic' connectors that I managed to break one of the clips off of on each of the two clips, then I would not solder anything. The clips hold in position delicate ribbon cables.
It will be better to either find some other 'thin plastic' to act as a 'wedge' and then small pieces of insulation tape to hold in the plastic. I was considering having to do this exact same thing when mine broke.
Maybe try cutting up some clean plastic from yoghurt pots or plastic drink cartons.
Those little connectors are call ZIF (zero insertion force) type. You can't just pull the flat cables out of them! Notice they have a little section of a different color on their leading edge (the part facing the ribbon cable). This pulls out just slightly away from the connector body. They just pulll out a millimeter or so, so be carefdul. Once they pull out, the ribbon comes out without any force at all (hence the name)
Great video.
Ryan. I am glad that you find them useful and like them..... and yes. It REALLY does help to know that these help. I found the Parrot ones lacking. These are certainly not perfect... But they do share step by step what issues and successes I encountered!
As I crash and need to make more repairs - you can be sure I will make a half-decent video of whatever unfolds.
Many thanks for taking the time to comment. :D
Thank you for taking the time to leave feedback. I am glad you Liked it :)
I think you mean the 2 x White plastic connector plugs.
These connectors are wires from the central cross and come from and controls the four motors.
As you get new wire and new connectors with a new central cross - you can just cut them off. It is not important.
IF you mean that the 'pins' have been pulled of the motherboard somehow.. Sure. Try soldering them back on. But you need to be good and watch the heat doesn't transfer further into the circuitry. Use a crocodile clip to eat the heat.
I am glad you found my attempts useful.
:)
I am unsure what you mean.
Q. Do you mean the cable removal performed at 03:00 ?
(There was a black clip that needed to be 'pinched'. My black clip broke on one side.)
Q. Have you pulled the white socket from the main board ?
Got the exact same break, thanks for the details!
Thanks so much for a great video. It was very simple with was still very uncertain so your video helped me a lot.
The ribbon has multiple wires & connections on it. Unless you know someone who is able to re-terminate, add the wires & then solder these back in place on the mono... I can't see how you will re-attach the height sensors.
Check the Parrot web site. I think what you need to do is buy a new "Parrot Navigation Board For AR.Drone 2.0"
.Paul Sim 2 seconds ago
Hi Tom
I didnt read all the comments, but you might want to edit this video.
Those 2 ribbon cables that you broke the plasic holders, they are needed, they are to used to press the connections pins on to the board, u only need to push them out about 2 MM to release the pressure, then you can pull the cale out
I know and show that they are needed, I re-insert them in the re-assembly section of video. (both with only one clip intact)
They were not easy to remove & the Parrot video did not show the technique you describe. I followed the instructions that Parrot provided....
Thanks for this informative video Waaaaaaay better than those parrot videos. Keep up the good work!
I hope my experience helps yours! (This was my first time and there were no other detailed videos around - So I made this!!) Just be more careful than I was with those black clips! You need a better tool / skill to remove them than I used. But All went well in the end and my AR Drone 2 files better than ever! Good Luck!
And thank you for the feedback. :D
I am glad you Liked it and was of some use. :)
Thanks for responding, I didn't get to fully explore its symptoms today BUT it seems to drift to the same side. Today at work I played with it indoors and it seemed to mostly hover ok but it would occasionally drift and occasionally it would drop and climb. I will forgive today's symptoms of due to work stations and tables everywhere. Can a electronic part inside function interminably? I was hoping to look at the rotors tomorrow.
If you mean that you have also broken the removable plastic 'grippers' then hopefully you will also be able to re-connect them in the same way that I do.
This is Video 1 of 4 and if you watch the video where I reassemble my AR Drone, you will see that I was still able to use the plastic grippers to hold the cables in place.
My AR Drone is fully repaired and flies really well again.
I wish you luck!
No - mine worked fine first time.
Check your propellers - The A & B are important!
This is video 1 of 4! Maybe you need to watch the others ?
thank you very much for the instructional repair video,Sir
Ha - Yes! Thats what I meant. C & A. They have to go on the correct motor.
You need to watch the other 3 videos where I explain everything in great detail.
Hope that helps.
Not the first time I have repaired RC Models. Just the First attempt at this AR repair. I do my best! :D
As I mention before - I watched the Parrot videos. I found them next to useless. They use a screwdriver & the cir-clip removal tool. Magically the clips come away free. They do not. They both snapped on one side of the clip. Sure. I need to master just how I get these out without breaking them. Poor design by Parrot, they used 2 x 10 cent brittle pieces that you can't buy to replace! Pffft!
I did not explain fully - The 'Jello' effect is when there is actually a vibration about your AR Drone 2. Looking at the video when in flight reveals this very easily.
However - I do recommend that you have a full exchange of Props and Pins so that you can be sure.
(It may also be worth while checking out some of my other videos on how to change / test / check / all is well. You also do not want to also find that you have damaged gear teeth) Good Luck!
Oh i see, thanks for the upload by the way your videos are great and very informative.
Thanks for posting this
I just hope it helps! & I hope you avoid the mistakes & pitfalls I made this first time...
Really useful video - thank you!
I ha e seen this jellow affect but it didn't bother me... All my smart phones have had that for years... At least I think I know what you are talking about regarding the jellow.. I have ordered all new props, pins and gears so hopefully I will report back that it's fixed.... Bte why did you ask about the jellow affect?
I am not sure what you mean exactly.
My Central Cross did snap into two parts.
I removed he broken Central cross.
I then installed a brand new Central Cross. If you watch the four videos - the whole exercise is there for you to watch and I give detailed step by step commentary..
Hope that helps.
GreaT video, but I have a question, but AFTER SWAPPING all the parts my drone now dives out of control to the side. And I think at some point I saw it display Camera problem... Any advice? I thanks again for such a detailed video.
Seems castles are as deadly to drones today was they were to invaders in their own era. Sorry for my late reply, I've been away.
I'll look forward to your upgrade video; I'll let you take that risk before I do haha
Best regards and thanks again.
Hi Tom, I broke one of the little clips as well. The smaller one from the sonar, or what ever it's called. My question is, did it fly ok when you installed the with one broken side of the clip, or do you think I should put a small dab of glue to better hold it still? Not on the contacts, but on the top. Do they sell new clips? Thanks
I had the same problem as you with the first cable you tried to disconnect (nearest the sonar), the connector broke, but the ribbon cable is fine. Was that a problem when you put it back together? How did you address that?
Does seem to be a 'common' break fault. :(
I hope my videos help you with your repair. Good Luck and be extra careful when removing those two black connectors!
I broke one of the feet, i am worried about breaking the connections, i have no nails! I have a replacement cross section but was wondering if there was way you have thought of to fix the problem?
Hi Tom,
I replaced the cross section like in the video, but now when i take off the drone flips upside down, the propellers are on the correct way there just not turning the correct way. Do the motors spin a different way round? the only thing i can think of is that i put the motors back in the wrong positions.
Regards
Sam
+Sam Shaw Hi Sam, the motors are the same... But the propelled are not! You need to make sure that you get the A and C correct.
(This is only 1 part of the set of 4 videos. I do show what I mean)
This video is part 1 of 4. You may find watching the remaining 3 videos helpful.
Hi, This is Video 1 of 4 - The other videos show the entire operation from start to finish.
(Just look at my channel)
Is it possible to take out the motherboard without the official tools but your ordinary tools from any store?
+Awesome Pizza Yes. The tool they sell is nothing special. If you have a decent set of tools, you will be fine.
+Tom Strong Reviews thanks also i don't know the tool can you tell me the specific name pls?
Hi, thanks for the video, I replaced the cross like you described, however when I turn it on, instead of hovering it flips over to one side. Any idea of what I did wrong? Is there a way to calibrate it ?
Markus Huber glad it was some help. My first advice is that you should first double check the A and C type propellers are on the correct motors.
Tom Strong Reviews How do I check that? I probably mixed them up, how do I find out which one is A and which one is C ?
Markus Huber My series of 4 videos shows every step. You must not have watched the others.
true! Thank you so much!
Hi Tom, I was wondering if the replacement cross had the legs connected to it because my current (broken) cross has a missing leg from a rough fall.
John Hawes Yes, the central cross has four new legs already attached.
thanks for the vid, just spent the last 2 hours fixing this bloody thing, what a pain in the arse. they could have used a little more noob-friendly connectors
This video helped me to fix central cross then now my AR.Drone 2.0 says "Pic Watchdog Emergency" TAT
Glad you managed to make your repairs.
The Pic Watchdog' error is usually because the Navigation board is not communicating with the Main board properly. Check your white ribbon cable is connected properly. (The Nav board is the small board that is partly exposed nd points downwards out the underneath of the main body.)
Thx!!! ^^
+Thomas Kim I know this is a year too late, but it may help someone else. The cause of this error on mine was the little connector connecting the two parts of the motherboard together. It had been jarred enough that the solder holding it to the motherboard broke. You may see the little feet raised slightly off the board if you gently rock the connector. I was not able to reheat the solder with a low wattage soldering iron with a fine tip to reconnect it. Had to buy a new motherboard. :(
Scotch tape! When you fold back the ribbon cables, use a piece of scotch tape to hold back the ribbon cables. It makes the job easier and you'll be a lot less likely to bust one of the ribbon cables.
A good tip!
I replaced my central cross and now all of my motors run backwards. Props are correct, but it blows the wrong way. Whats up with that?
73stratocaster That does sound weird... Did you also check the arrow to ensure the whole central cross is pointing the right way forward ??
Why did you snap that clip out at 04:24? you only need to pull it back a little.
@09:02 - The two sockets with pins ?
hi :) i did everithing as in video... but my motors are runing other way!?!? Did you have similar problem? Help!
I am wondering if you can help me solve a issue, using your video here I changed out the Central cross on my AR Drone 2.0. I also put in new high speed gears and bearings I have put everything back together and took the drone out for a test flight today. Everything powers up and the motors spin, however its almost like something is reverse wired on one side because the drone wants to turn on its side. Even when holding it in the house in my hand I can feel it pulling to one side. But all 4 blades spin. What could cause this? Did something get cross wired somewhere? What things could I check or test to try and determine how to fix this?
The most common problem is that you may have put the wrong propeller blades on the wrong arms. I do explain this fully in my videos. (This is just 1 of 4)
What if you don't have those special screwdrivers need to unhook the circuit board
Hello! Can i change the controller(motherboard) of the drone ? I'm thinking to put a kk2 controller. Because i needed for one project. Is that possible ?
+bmoviestgams i do not make such modifications. You need to try the more specialist Parrot forums. Hopefully someone else can help you.
Ookie dokie ! thanks anyway ;)
Hi, To better explain. Give me the minute & second on this video that shows exactly what you are doing.
Hi I have a problem with my drone. Yesterday was the first time I tried to make it fly, and I have to admit it's not something for me: my drone hit agaisnt the tree. But it was totally normal, I continued trying a couple of time and it didnt have any problem but today, when it takes off it has 2 lights red and 2 lights green, and it keeps turning around by 360 degree. Can you please tell me what's its problem? Thank you in anticipate.
Mai Xuan Huong Start by performing a reset of your drone and then try again.
Hello I was unplugging the connectors to the mother board and the black prices broke how can I fix them?
+Sean Blevins You could glue them back on, but I found just putting the ZIF connectors carefully back in place and using a small bit of tape works as well.
+Tom Strong Reviews Ok thanks for the help!
The screw driver is just a cross head screwdriver on one end & a flat head end on the other. Nothing special.
You will need something to help you guide on & off each circlip though.
What do you do if you break the ZIF connectors? Can you buy replacement connectors or do you have to buy new boards?
Mine worked fine with just me carefully re-inserting the cables. The one clip that I have left on both seems enough and I have not done anything else to my Drone for almost 18 months and it still flies well.
Looking at the spares options from parrot you only get the cables and connectors with the motherboards.
Tom Strong Reviews did you have to glue anything? did the connections every go loose?
Yska363 No glue or anything. I just slid back in the cable and the connectors. This is only Part 1 of 4. If you watch the re-assembly you can see exactly what I did. This flew first time and still flying!
thanks tom
Hi tom, it seems that my battery connection is loose. Is this normal?
Yes. Use the strap to keep the battery snug. You dont want it to move in flight.
Tom Strong Reviews should I send it for warranty. when I first bought it, it has this issue and I swap it for a new one, but after for a few days it shows the same issue. Actually, the connectors are tight, is only when I fiddle around the wire and it starts to restarts itself.
Ahh! You mean the power connections between the AR Drone and the Battery. No, that should not be loose. (Mine have all been nice and snug and I have several batteries)
Test another battery if you can. Pity to take the AR Drone back if its actually one battery at fault. But sure. That should not be loose and power stability is crucial to good flight behaviour.
Thanks for your reply tom. Maybe can you try on your drone as well( if you still have it), like try to play around the wire connectors of the battery and power supply? if that happens to your then is a built quality issue. No point for me to send it for warranty.
I know all my batteries worked fine and my power connection was good on all of mine. So, no issue with my Drone nor any of my batteries.
If you have a second battery you will be able to confirm with some certainty where the fault lies. If not... take back under warranty.
Nice video M8 =)
I was wondering if you can help me...I put a new cross member in and did not mark my motors..at a loss on how to fix this
You should be ok. (They are all the same and controlled directionally by the electronics) The main thing to ensure is that you put the correct propeller onto the correct arm.
Thank you
Me suscribo espero obren de igual modo gracias.