Thanks for the review. It is a pity that some bad suppliers destroy good products by creating bad "faked" products. I did also use some of these loads, but recently bought an ITECH IT8512A+. Of course, this is a different price range, but so far, I am happy with it, mainly because it displays 4 values at the same time...
I've been looking at BK Precission, Maynuo and Itech for quite a while.. they are very similar, maybe even the same electronics under the hood. Good electronic loads, I might get one at some point.
I plan to do a video about my new load in the near future. I had first ordered a Maynuo (because it was 50$ cheaper). But it was out of stock and I needed it. So, I changed to the ITECH. As you mention, they seem to be very similar inside...
So apparently my unit is a fake, that's why it's got all those problems. There are also genuine ones which don't have the problems outlined in this video, they can be identified by a tantalum capacitor under the LCD, a discussion is here www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/part-identification-150w-constant-current-electronic-load-60v-10a/
Just bought this as well... In my case, it showed 0.02A, when 2A was set. I have quickly discover a blown SMD fuse and then a blown TO-247 load mosfet. changed these to a new ones and it failed once again when I started the test. I used a 100A mosfet, so this must be due to high voltage inductive kick. After further investigation I have found there is absolutely no overvoltage protection in this device - not worth fixing, unless I add a bunch of extra components.
Hello everybody I also bought this dummyload. I also miss the "1.4" on the display when I turn on the voltage. At my dummyload, apparently, the temperature control for the cooling fan does not work anymore. So I'll try to steer with a small thermostat the cooling fan. I would also like to install a voltage regulator for the cooling fan, so that it brings a little more cooling performance. Still one thing that comes to mind, is that the self-calibration does not work either. I did not manage to activate the self-calibration (post of volvoracinggermany) If I read your posts so, then I suspected that I also bought a fake. If after my addition the dummyload still works, it is ok. Otherwise I will probably dismantle the heatsink and the fan. The rest of the dummyload gets a oneway ticket to the moon. :-)
In some of these units I've noticed the microcontroller is often located right next to the MOSFET...which gets VERY hot. The accuracy of the timer in the controller is a function of temperature. So...as the MOSFET heats up, the timer accuracy could change significantly. It may also affect voltage and current data if associated components are also dependent on temperature.
@@voltlog really want to see a review of that one. And maybe even a reverse engineering of this fake one. I loved your reverse engineering video of the 60W DC loadm
I also trapped by this rubbish. The bug you have found I also have in my device and it even destroy the mosfet if the DUT is able to provide enough current. I tested with lead acid batteries and damaged the IRF250. Anyway, there is a possible simple workaround for the bug but it does not improve the overall precision of the cheap "fake" version. Fake because there is a "original" one which I finaly found and which is semi professional in performance. You can see the difference on the right side above the setting key there is a RS232 (rx, tx, gnd) connector. Have fun
Hi. Awesome review. Thanks. Can you please tell me which type of capacitor is soldered next to the 12v jack? (C1) Mine just exploded with a big bang! Update: Fixed it with a 220uF.
I've got an EBC-A05 Electronic Load / Charger that works well and has an output for a PC so you can log and graph the data. It can handle 0-30.00V, 0-5.000A, up to 60W and costs around $50. This unit is great for testing batteries since it can first charge them up fully and then discharge them to a preset value and shut off. What do you think of that one? One odd thing about it is that it has a USB port on the back but the output is serial, not USB, and requires an external adapter in order to connect to a PC. I didn't know that and never ordered the adapter so I just used an FTDI USB adapter that I already had. Otherwise the unit has worked perfectly.
Great review! It is so helpful to your viewers when you point out shortcomings of these Chinese products. So shameful for the manufacturer. Please point out the manufacturer whenever possible so we can avoid their other products as well. THANKS SO MUCH.
When you make your accuracy assessments, do you compensate for the voltage drop across your ammeter? Some meters can substantially impact the readings of other instrumentation.
Thanks for this interesting reveiw and warning! Kept me from wasting my money on that. Did you check or hear if the newer products are any better and if the removed the bugs in firmware? I bought the 60W dummy load instead but it was way off the specs either! I had an error of more than 10% on the current reading (50% in the lowest setting of 200mA - was only 100mA instead). But i managed to improve the accuracy by resoldering the current sensing shunt which was soldered from one side only on my exemplar. By doing so i succeeded in having reliable values between 1 and 2 Amps load but on lower values it shows to much, on higher values it shows to less power! So this seems to be unfixable just by adjusting the shunt - you need an accurate calibration method and maybe adjusted firmware. Anyware for 15 bugs you get a reasonable adjustable dummy load but you cant expect a high-precision instrument ;-)
After watching your video, I decided to ll my Yosoo out of the junk box. You are right; it is junk. But, one fix is to put a high-speed fan in place of the stock one. Then, it can dissipate 150 Watts. Sorry but no fix for other failures.
Hello Florin. I wonder if you had done anything about this DC load. The reason I am asking is I have a genuine one, which worked perfectly until today. I was trying to calibrate a hall effect current sensor for a project of mine using the DC load and while doing it, I disconnected the load lines and reconnected them with the DC load on. There was a small spark and the load cannot measure voltage anymore. Everything else is still working.
I haven't done anything related to this load. I would suggest reverse engineering the schematic, figuring out where the voltage sensing happens, check if there is any protection on that (maybe a protection diode popped). If there isn't a protection diode, then maybe that signal goes through an op-amp and that op-amp is dead. If the signal goes directly to the microcontroller, that ADC is probably dead and there isn't much you can do about it.
That is exactly what I'm trying to do at the moment, but it is not an easy board to reverse engineer. There are protection diodes and a 10A fuse, but they check out OK. There is an ST brand SMD op-amp (that is my guess since there must be an op-amp), markings on it says "358" and "MZ634". I could not find anything as MZ634, so I think it may be an LM358. There is a voltage comparator, LM393, and there are two 18 bit DAC's (I know this from the sellers item description page) they are in a very tiny SMD package and marked as "CAEE" which again there is absolutely no info about. Buying another one is an option but I am afraid they will send me a fake one like they did to you. I really want to repair this and I am willing to change all of these parts in doing so. I will appreciate any input from you if you can find the time to check what's on your fake one. I can send pictures of the parts too, if you can give me an e-mail.
the stc mcu is fairly capably and easily re-programmable with opensource software ( sdcc and stcgal ). Seems like this would be a great project to reverse engineer the schematics, and produce a totally open-source firmware for it...
Hey, can you please make a Fade-in Fade-out LED (Strip) Dimmer and sell the kit on your site or put an affiliate link so we can buy the parts? THANKS!!!
Thank you for the video. Sadly I burned this in like 10 minutes without doing nothing special, I Ve ordered some spare parts to hopefully repair it. But I'm not confident. I was so disappointed that I overshooted in its substitute and I ended buying myself a Maynuo M9710 instead... My wallet was not happy... If just that thing worked it decently I wouldn't have reacted so badly
You can easily identify if you got one of the bad fakes or the real good working version. No need to even turn it on for this. Just have a look on the main pcb. Under the display pcb you will find the text "LCD" on the fake version and "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" on the good version. And you will find two additional holes (one to the left and one to the right of the display connector) on the main pcb only on the bad "LCD" version. The good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version does not have this two holes. The fake version has very poor accuracy and the most important thing is that it does not turn off the load at overload conditions correctly. Without my voltage and current limiting psu I would have killed the MOSFET at first use. The firmware of the "LCD" version is crap and it has much less functions (e.g. no automatic and manual calibration modes and more). Another way to identify the bad version is that on power on it does not show the "Welcome to use" message. I just bought one on Aliexpress from the Seller "Pro Powers Tools Store". He advertised the well working "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version (pictures and description text) but sent one of the bad "LCD" version to me. I opened a dispute with describing the problem and with two videos and in the end I got my money back after Aliexpress stepped in the dispute. I think there are many stores that sell the bad "LCD" version but advertise the good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version but even don't know that they are selling the bad one. There seemes to be a freeloader that made a very bad copy of the good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version. You cannot read out the firmware and this I think is the main culprit of the "LCD" version because they had to write their own firmware for their bad copy. With a good firmware it may work as good as the original. Now I ordered a second one (Aliexpress store name "KKK-store") and contacted the seller before I ordered and he told me that I will get the good version. It's still on it's way so I cannot say if this time I will the the good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version. Keeping fingers crossed... I modified the "LCD" version I got. I mounted a better cpu cooler on the device (goo.gl/twutid). And I re-positioned the MOSFET and gave the NTC a little thermal grease so that the coupling to the MOSFET is better. With this I get 100% stable 150W at about 7x°C and I can go up to 185W at 91°C. At 93°C the "LCD" version "tries" to cut off the load (but it doesn't). Hopefully I will get the original "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version to compare both. With a correct firmware it should turn of the load on voltage, current AND watts overload conditions I hope. Not only in over temperature condition.
Yes, I realized everything you said after reading the comments in here. Good luck with your new purchase, hopefully it will be the right version. I will try to source one of the goods ones directly from China through a friend.
Today I got my second order and I had luck and got the real version with "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" text on the main pcb. It works very good with perfect accuracy. Seller on Aliexpress was "KKK-store". I made the modification I already have described (better cpu cooler) and with this I can get 100% stable 160W at 54°C MOSFET temperature at about 24°C room temperature. The EDL does not allow more than exactly 160W (16,00V @ 10.00A). When I increase the voltage over 16,00V @ 10A it reduces the current automatically in order not to go above 160W. I hoped it would take the MOSFETs' temperature into account and let me go higher than this. The IRFP250N is capable of 214W. The original EDL has a cooler master cooler and it is slightly narrower than the one on the fake EDL. So you cannot change the coolers coming with the original and fake version against each other. The original EDL has a much better power dissipation even with the original small cooler than the fake one.
As it is established that you've got a fake one, it would be better to edit the video title that says "It's crap!" and the description that is very negative. These may be misleading to those who are thinking of buying one since the genuine item actually works pretty decent. I have one that seems to be genuine, and I checked with Fluke 87V, it was spot on.
Unfortunately, no. My unit can't even handle 100W for extended period of time. heats up and shuts off very quickly. And then if you try to operate it, it starts short-circuiting repeatedly. I have to push "start" button a couple of times to get it out of that short circuit mode. I wonder if these units could be fixed by reflashing original firmware. But I bet original manufacturer doesn't make it available to prevent cloning.
No, I didn't do a video on that one because it's quite hard to find... and also doesn't come with any specs at least where I got it from, directly from Taobao.
From the comments it definitely seems like you got a fake one, which is a shame :/ I'd love to get the "good" one but t's pretty risky to buy this supply at the moment. Apparently some sellers have pictures of the original supply, but they sell the fake one.
Update: Got myself the one you recommended (www.aliexpress.com/item/150W-Constant-Current-Electronic-Load-60V-10A-Battery-Discharge-Capacity-Tester-ammeter-voltage-meter/32725711985.html) and it seems to be the original. Works really well. Thanks again!
Just to let you know there is a CBA IV Pro load from UK with optional CBA Charge Controller total 300$ value it can do various test and automatic battery lifetime check/ charge discharge cycles. It can be extended to 2000W at 500W increments. Now why ZKE tech or somebody else can't make the same clone hardware? Why make the rubbish fake clones?
I think we are going to start seeing better dummy loads coming from China. Most of the time there is a big language barrier so the Chinese part doesn't know what we want.
I'm in a current battle with eBay seller Alice1101983 over item "H-bridge l298n module" board I purchased (5ea), only to find it was different from most seen online. I asked repeatedly for documentation. For this one item (so far), they appear to have gone out of their way to not satisfy my (the buyer, remember?) concerns. I'm about to negative-vote them on eBay. Does anybody know of an online "seller scorecard" website, so buyers can evaluate potential purchases from certain sellers? Thanks.
You are mentioning the word "cheap" what do you thing you get for 50$ on Ebay., Aliexpress, Bangood? Every thing you get there is made as cheap as possible! When you want a High-End load, why do you then not by a electronic load with high specs for 1000$
A german review (ruclips.net/video/6iiBt6EHeSk/видео.html) shows the ability to calibrate and seemed to have good correlation to external meter readings and cautions to watch out for fakes. The buttons on that unit were labeled in english. Maybe you got a fake which reflects badly on the properly operating load. They also show the power rating specs derating over 20volts.
Hi, yes keep testing electronics from China so we can can avoid the crap and save our money for quality products, which are hard to find these days either on ebay or banggood . About 50% of the electronics , I do receive from China does not work as specified, parts missing , or does not match the description. An alarming amount of fake and poorly copied stuff. Keep up the good work Tx.
P.S. here you can find a very good instruction incl. adjustments / calibration and special (hidden) functions (in german language): www.360customs.de/2017/01/150w-constant-current-load-60v-10a-battery-capacity-tester/ Seems there are good and fake ones that look very similar with those 4 buttons left and right of the display. Others have those click-knobs to adjust values and settings and come with yellow PCB intead of green. But this seems not the proof for fake or real...
Unfortunately I already have this really stupid meter. So many bugs and it's unusable and as you said it is dangerous especially when it is in the off modes! Even the AH (amp hours) go up and down if you change the settings on the fly. Please do NOT buy this useless and dangerous product!!!
Dude!! Speak the language of your little country and stop messing up ours. if you insist, then do some serious schooling, or hire a translator who can speak proper ENGLISH. It's like torture. The funniest thing is criticizing "Chinglish" by YOU, or "sen-zorz" and "cirk-witt". Are you a cousin of Melania Trump or something? I love our first lady, don't get me wrong, but I do my best to avoid hearing her speak English cuz it gives me serious stomach pain. Please, don't get offended, just find a better gig that suits you and stop mimicking Mr. Spiess or Dave Jones or others who know what they're doing. I accidentally found this video and couldn't stand but a few minutes.
Thanks for the review. It is a pity that some bad suppliers destroy good products by creating bad "faked" products. I did also use some of these loads, but recently bought an ITECH IT8512A+. Of course, this is a different price range, but so far, I am happy with it, mainly because it displays 4 values at the same time...
I've been looking at BK Precission, Maynuo and Itech for quite a while.. they are very similar, maybe even the same electronics under the hood. Good electronic loads, I might get one at some point.
I plan to do a video about my new load in the near future. I had first ordered a Maynuo (because it was 50$ cheaper). But it was out of stock and I needed it. So, I changed to the ITECH. As you mention, they seem to be very similar inside...
So apparently my unit is a fake, that's why it's got all those problems. There are also genuine ones which don't have the problems outlined in this video, they can be identified by a tantalum capacitor under the LCD, a discussion is here www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/part-identification-150w-constant-current-electronic-load-60v-10a/
So the TEC-12P or TEC-06 that can be connected to PC, has reliable old design and no fakes is worse than ZPB30A1?
Just bought this as well... In my case, it showed 0.02A, when 2A was set. I have quickly discover a blown SMD fuse and then a blown TO-247 load mosfet. changed these to a new ones and it failed once again when I started the test. I used a 100A mosfet, so this must be due to high voltage inductive kick. After further investigation I have found there is absolutely no overvoltage protection in this device - not worth fixing, unless I add a bunch of extra components.
Hello everybody
I also bought this dummyload.
I also miss the "1.4" on the display when I turn on the voltage.
At my dummyload, apparently, the temperature control for the cooling fan does not work anymore.
So I'll try to steer with a small thermostat the cooling fan.
I would also like to install a voltage regulator for the cooling fan, so that it brings a little more cooling performance.
Still one thing that comes to mind, is that the self-calibration does not
work either.
I did not manage to activate the self-calibration (post of volvoracinggermany)
If I read your posts so, then I suspected that I also bought a fake.
If after my addition the dummyload still works, it is ok.
Otherwise I will probably dismantle the heatsink and the fan.
The rest of the dummyload gets a oneway ticket to the moon. :-)
In some of these units I've noticed the microcontroller is often located right next to the MOSFET...which gets VERY hot. The accuracy of the timer in the controller is a function of temperature. So...as the MOSFET heats up, the timer accuracy could change significantly. It may also affect voltage and current data if associated components are also dependent on temperature.
what was the device with the large silver heatsink at the top right of the intro sequence? looks like it might be OK ?
that is a dummy load which is hard to find, I got it directly from Taobao.
@@voltlog really want to see a review of that one. And maybe even a reverse engineering of this fake one. I loved your reverse engineering video of the 60W DC loadm
I also trapped by this rubbish. The bug you have found I also have in my device and it even destroy the mosfet if the DUT is able to provide enough current. I tested with lead acid batteries and damaged the IRF250. Anyway, there is a possible simple workaround for the bug but it does not improve the overall precision of the cheap "fake" version. Fake because there is a "original" one which I finaly found and which is semi professional in performance. You can see the difference on the right side above the setting key there is a RS232 (rx, tx, gnd) connector. Have fun
Hi. Awesome review. Thanks. Can you please tell me which type of capacitor is soldered next to the 12v jack? (C1) Mine just exploded with a big bang!
Update: Fixed it with a 220uF.
yup, those are 220uF 35V.
Did you return it or get a replacemwnt?
Nope, it's been too long since the time of purchase.
I've got an EBC-A05 Electronic Load / Charger that works well and has an output for a PC so you can log and graph the data. It can handle 0-30.00V, 0-5.000A, up to 60W and costs around $50. This unit is great for testing batteries since it can first charge them up fully and then discharge them to a preset value and shut off. What do you think of that one? One odd thing about it is that it has a USB port on the back but the output is serial, not USB, and requires an external adapter in order to connect to a PC. I didn't know that and never ordered the adapter so I just used an FTDI USB adapter that I already had. Otherwise the unit has worked perfectly.
I haven't tested that model.
Great review! It is so helpful to your viewers when you point out shortcomings of these Chinese products. So shameful for the manufacturer. Please point out the manufacturer whenever possible so we can avoid their other products as well. THANKS SO MUCH.
thanks!
When you make your accuracy assessments, do you compensate for the voltage drop across your ammeter? Some meters can substantially impact the readings of other instrumentation.
Thanks for this interesting reveiw and warning! Kept me from wasting my money on that. Did you check or hear if the newer products are any better and if the removed the bugs in firmware? I bought the 60W dummy load instead but it was way off the specs either! I had an error of more than 10% on the current reading (50% in the lowest setting of 200mA - was only 100mA instead). But i managed to improve the accuracy by resoldering the current sensing shunt which was soldered from one side only on my exemplar. By doing so i succeeded in having reliable values between 1 and 2 Amps load but on lower values it shows to much, on higher values it shows to less power! So this seems to be unfixable just by adjusting the shunt - you need an accurate calibration method and maybe adjusted firmware. Anyware for 15 bugs you get a reasonable adjustable dummy load but you cant expect a high-precision instrument ;-)
all of these cheap dummy loads have problems measuring low currents, but the 60W dummy load is still the best overall out of the bunch.
After watching your video, I decided to ll my Yosoo out of the junk box. You are right; it is junk. But, one fix is to put a high-speed fan in place of the stock one. Then, it can dissipate 150 Watts. Sorry but no fix for other failures.
Hello Florin. I wonder if you had done anything about this DC load. The reason I am asking is I have a genuine one, which worked perfectly until today. I was trying to calibrate a hall effect current sensor for a project of mine using the DC load and while doing it, I disconnected the load lines and reconnected them with the DC load on. There was a small spark and the load cannot measure voltage anymore. Everything else is still working.
I haven't done anything related to this load. I would suggest reverse engineering the schematic, figuring out where the voltage sensing happens, check if there is any protection on that (maybe a protection diode popped). If there isn't a protection diode, then maybe that signal goes through an op-amp and that op-amp is dead. If the signal goes directly to the microcontroller, that ADC is probably dead and there isn't much you can do about it.
That is exactly what I'm trying to do at the moment, but it is not an easy board to reverse engineer. There are protection diodes and a 10A fuse, but they check out OK. There is an ST brand SMD op-amp (that is my guess since there must be an op-amp), markings on it says "358" and "MZ634". I could not find anything as MZ634, so I think it may be an LM358. There is a voltage comparator, LM393, and there are two 18 bit DAC's (I know this from the sellers item description page) they are in a very tiny SMD package and marked as "CAEE" which again there is absolutely no info about. Buying another one is an option but I am afraid they will send me a fake one like they did to you. I really want to repair this and I am willing to change all of these parts in doing so. I will appreciate any input from you if you can find the time to check what's on your fake one. I can send pictures of the parts too, if you can give me an e-mail.
the stc mcu is fairly capably and easily re-programmable with opensource software ( sdcc and stcgal ). Seems like this would be a great project to reverse engineer the schematics, and produce a totally open-source firmware for it...
I am thinking about this while knowing I have an abandoned dummy load project :-)
Hey, can you please make a Fade-in Fade-out LED (Strip) Dimmer and sell the kit on your site or put an affiliate link so we can buy the parts? THANKS!!!
Thank you for the video. Sadly I burned this in like 10 minutes without doing nothing special, I Ve ordered some spare parts to hopefully repair it. But I'm not confident. I was so disappointed that I overshooted in its substitute and I ended buying myself a Maynuo M9710 instead... My wallet was not happy... If just that thing worked it decently I wouldn't have reacted so badly
the maynuo is decent but in a completely different price range.
Thanks for publishing a good user manual...
You can easily identify if you got one of the bad fakes or the real good working version. No need to even turn it on for this. Just have a look on the main pcb. Under the display pcb you will find the text "LCD" on the fake version and "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" on the good version. And you will find two additional holes (one to the left and one to the right of the display connector) on the main pcb only on the bad "LCD" version. The good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version does not have this two holes.
The fake version has very poor accuracy and the most important thing is that it does not turn off the load at overload conditions correctly. Without my voltage and current limiting psu I would have killed the MOSFET at first use. The firmware of the "LCD" version is crap and it has much less functions (e.g. no automatic and manual calibration modes and more). Another way to identify the bad version is that on power on it does not show the "Welcome to use" message.
I just bought one on Aliexpress from the Seller "Pro Powers Tools Store". He advertised the well working "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version (pictures and description text) but sent one of the bad "LCD" version to me. I opened a dispute with describing the problem and with two videos and in the end I got my money back after Aliexpress stepped in the dispute.
I think there are many stores that sell the bad "LCD" version but advertise the good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version but even don't know that they are selling the bad one. There seemes to be a freeloader that made a very bad copy of the good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version. You cannot read out the firmware and this I think is the main culprit of the "LCD" version because they had to write their own firmware for their bad copy. With a good firmware it may work as good as the original.
Now I ordered a second one (Aliexpress store name "KKK-store") and contacted the seller before I ordered and he told me that I will get the good version. It's still on it's way so I cannot say if this time I will the the good "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version. Keeping fingers crossed...
I modified the "LCD" version I got. I mounted a better cpu cooler on the device (goo.gl/twutid). And I re-positioned the MOSFET and gave the NTC a little thermal grease so that the coupling to the MOSFET is better. With this I get 100% stable 150W at about 7x°C and I can go up to 185W at 91°C. At 93°C the "LCD" version "tries" to cut off the load (but it doesn't).
Hopefully I will get the original "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" version to compare both. With a correct firmware it should turn of the load on voltage, current AND watts overload conditions I hope. Not only in over temperature condition.
Yes, I realized everything you said after reading the comments in here. Good luck with your new purchase, hopefully it will be the right version. I will try to source one of the goods ones directly from China through a friend.
Today I got my second order and I had luck and got the real version with "ELECTRONIC LOAD V1.6" text on the main pcb. It works very good with perfect accuracy. Seller on Aliexpress was "KKK-store". I made the modification I already have described (better cpu cooler) and with this I can get 100% stable 160W at 54°C MOSFET temperature at about 24°C room temperature. The EDL does not allow more than exactly 160W (16,00V @ 10.00A). When I increase the voltage over 16,00V @ 10A it reduces the current automatically in order not to go above 160W. I hoped it would take the MOSFETs' temperature into account and let me go higher than this. The IRFP250N is capable of 214W.
The original EDL has a cooler master cooler and it is slightly narrower than the one on the fake EDL. So you cannot change the coolers coming with the original and fake version against each other. The original EDL has a much better power dissipation even with the original small cooler than the fake one.
As it is established that you've got a fake one, it would be better to edit the video title that says "It's crap!" and the description that is very negative. These may be misleading to those who are thinking of buying one since the genuine item actually works pretty decent. I have one that seems to be genuine, and I checked with Fluke 87V, it was spot on.
good point
Thanks for the review
thank you!
Thanks! As always great video! Wish I saw it before buying this unit. I hope at least mine has improved firmware.
I hope you get the original one.
Unfortunately, no. My unit can't even handle 100W for extended period of time. heats up and shuts off very quickly. And then if you try to operate it, it starts short-circuiting repeatedly. I have to push "start" button a couple of times to get it out of that short circuit mode. I wonder if these units could be fixed by reflashing original firmware. But I bet original manufacturer doesn't make it available to prevent cloning.
Thanks for showing new "dummy loads"
Thermal protection on my unit kicks in at 45C and then fan turns on lol, any suggestions how to fix it?
did you do video of the top right one also? didn't find it
No, I didn't do a video on that one because it's quite hard to find... and also doesn't come with any specs at least where I got it from, directly from Taobao.
interesting thx fr sharing :)
Can you recommend me one that is accurate?
Thnx for the heads up!
Very well done! Keep up with the good work.
thanks!
Good review. Thanks.
Thanks for the honnest review
thank you!
nice review that was a great video very informative and very well explained.
Thank you!
can you not replace the mosfet for a bigger mosfet nice video regards. sietse
It's not really about the mosfet..
From the comments it definitely seems like you got a fake one, which is a shame :/
I'd love to get the "good" one but t's pretty risky to buy this supply at the moment. Apparently some sellers have pictures of the original supply, but they sell the fake one.
try aliexpress, that is where I got the one I reviewed, it is the proper one.
Thanks!
Update: Got myself the one you recommended (www.aliexpress.com/item/150W-Constant-Current-Electronic-Load-60V-10A-Battery-Discharge-Capacity-Tester-ammeter-voltage-meter/32725711985.html) and it seems to be the original. Works really well. Thanks again!
@@battlecoder I'd love to get one but the link is broken!
Just to let you know there is a CBA IV Pro load from UK with optional CBA Charge Controller total 300$ value it can do various test and automatic battery lifetime check/ charge discharge cycles. It can be extended to 2000W at 500W increments.
Now why ZKE tech or somebody else can't make the same clone hardware? Why make the rubbish fake clones?
I think we are going to start seeing better dummy loads coming from China. Most of the time there is a big language barrier so the Chinese part doesn't know what we want.
I rather not wait and build this one, Just need to wait longer for logging PC part to be made www.scullcom.uk/category/projects/dc-load/
Nice review. Thank for the video
thanks!
Very interesting, as usual. Thanks!
thanks!
Thanks for show this product !!!!
no problem.
Thanks for this video. It was very helpful
thanks!
Now I'm happy that I didn't bought that dummy load ;)
These 6-pin chips look more like protective diode sets.
I'm in a current battle with eBay seller Alice1101983 over item "H-bridge l298n module" board I purchased (5ea), only to find it was different from most seen online. I asked repeatedly for documentation. For this one item (so far), they appear to have gone out of their way to not satisfy my (the buyer, remember?) concerns. I'm about to negative-vote them on eBay. Does anybody know of an online "seller scorecard" website, so buyers can evaluate potential purchases from certain sellers? Thanks.
if they sent you the wrong item and you have a good ebay reputation than you should be able to ask for a full refund.
You are mentioning the word "cheap" what do you thing you get for 50$ on Ebay., Aliexpress, Bangood? Every thing you get there is made as cheap as possible!
When you want a High-End load, why do you then not by a electronic load with high specs for 1000$
Merci beaucoup :)
A german review (ruclips.net/video/6iiBt6EHeSk/видео.html) shows the ability to calibrate and seemed to have good correlation to external meter readings and cautions to watch out for fakes. The buttons on that unit were labeled in english. Maybe you got a fake which reflects badly on the properly operating load. They also show the power rating specs derating over 20volts.
yes, I think I have one of the fake ones.
Hi, yes keep testing electronics from China so we can can avoid the crap and save our money for quality products, which are hard to find these days either on ebay or banggood . About 50% of the electronics , I do receive from China does not work as specified, parts missing , or does not match the description. An alarming amount of fake and poorly copied stuff. Keep up the good work Tx.
thank you!
Am i the only one who wants to see these chinese things severely overloaded, overheating and blowing up.
I sometimes wanna do that too :-)
me too i bought a fake one, fortunately I was refunded
P.S. here you can find a very good instruction incl. adjustments / calibration and special (hidden) functions (in german language):
www.360customs.de/2017/01/150w-constant-current-load-60v-10a-battery-capacity-tester/
Seems there are good and fake ones that look very similar with those 4 buttons left and right of the display. Others have those click-knobs to adjust values and settings and come with yellow PCB intead of green. But this seems not the proof for fake or real...
mine is definitely a fake.
Unfortunately I already have this really stupid meter. So many bugs and it's unusable and as you said it is dangerous especially when it is in the off modes! Even the AH (amp hours) go up and down if you change the settings on the fly. Please do NOT buy this useless and dangerous product!!!
Real men dont need protection 😂 No worries.
agree! It is junk thanks
More like get a Load out of this Dummy electronic device, thanks again China...
yeah, pretty disappointing but i think it has good potential if only we could access the calibration menu
calibration menu doesn't exist on fake ones.
Dude!! Speak the language of your little country and stop messing up ours. if you insist, then do some serious schooling, or hire a translator who can speak proper ENGLISH. It's like torture. The funniest thing is criticizing "Chinglish" by YOU, or "sen-zorz" and "cirk-witt". Are you a cousin of Melania Trump or something? I love our first lady, don't get me wrong, but I do my best to avoid hearing her speak English cuz it gives me serious stomach pain. Please, don't get offended, just find a better gig that suits you and stop mimicking Mr. Spiess or Dave Jones or others who know what they're doing. I accidentally found this video and couldn't stand but a few minutes.