This has been in my Banggood cart for some time, waiting for a potential situation I want to test a power supply with more than 30A my existing Itech load maxes out. Nice to see how it is in practise. Happy to see the teardown later on!
Just a reminder, when using active loads on sources with feedback circuits such as switchmode regulators, you can see instabilities due to interaction of the source loop with the electronic load loop.
Why didn't you show the battery discharge function? What is the resolution of the capacity measurement? (1mAh? 10mAh?) Any ideas on the accuracy of that?
120320/0350H PST-1150H UTC. Thank you for the presentation. I am frantically looking for such an DC EL device, for some time. Being a DIY Electronics enthusiast, I have struggled to obtain the true capacity of Li-Ion/ LiFePo4 cells. I largely depended on the verbal assurances of the venders, who are often hide the true value. for example if the label on the Cell indicates 50Ah (LiFePo4 Cells) most often it is NOT, being 35Ah or less. I have often viewed your YT presentations and have learned many innards and techniques of Electronics. Thanks, for this presentation. stay safe
Thank you so much for linking to the software! I was able to download the light version, but not the full? Can you reupload it? What is the smallest load you can run? 5mA? 1mA? Thanks again!
I'm using this load to test a power bank I'm building and have on several occasions found the load drew more current than the set value. In the past if the KP184 drew excessive current it only happened when I first hit the ON button and hitting the button two more times (turning the load off and back on) caused the proper load setting to be drawn. My current drain tests have run 2 hours to over 13 hours with no problems. All current drain tests have been run at one set current level. However the other day I had the KP184 set to 0.800 A and everything worked fine until about 3 minutes into the test when the KP184 suddenly drew over 4 A, as recorded by the TI bq27441 Fuel Gage in the circuit. This time turning the load off and back on didn’t help. I’ve stopped using the knob because it has a tendency to jump digits due to contact bounce. The buttons can also experience contact bounce, however it hasn’t been as drastic as the knob. This is very dangerous when you think you’re increasing the current in 0.1 A steps and it suddenly jumps to 2 or 3 A! With the Power switch being located on the back panel I didn’t notice at first, but the power light is always on whether the power on or off!
Is possible connect another dc load in parallel for more current or in series for more voltage ? For example 2 in series for 300v 40A dc load or 2 in parallel for 150v 80A ?
I agree on the substandard user interface. If you like the Kunkin KP184, I think you'll love the East Tester ET5410. I picked one up on Alibaba a while back but I believe Banggood stocks them too. Quite a nice interface, solid build, with similar specs. I appreciate your look at this Kunkin. I was not aware of the multiple interface daisy-chaining of the units. It blows my mind how expensive some of the competing electronic loads are for such basic functions. I am a huge fan of this one and the East Tester, over the dumb $40 ebay special pink fan ones. What a ripoff. Thanks for the video!
Looks like a decent electronic load with the price in mind, biggest drawback is the 7 segmented display interface, as that can be cumbersome dealing with features and test sequences with such a limited display. and it doesn't seem the pwm-load intensified fan is a noisy problem as there was no notice of it.
Great review - like it! You cover many important points like accuracy measurement - thats great! I dont like the non-fitting 4mm jacks - this is wierd!? Why cant they provide proper fitting jacks! At 40 A this is really important. You should have done a load test with at least 30...40 Amps (maybe with a car battery e.g.). Could be that the plugs started to melt! The point about interference of feedback loops from SMPS with the feedback loops of the load would be interesting to see. Can you reveal the internal frequency of the load loop?
I got one of these about a month ago. It is nice, but takes a little getting used to. The first time I tried battery mode it pulled the cell down below 1 volt overnight. If you go over the power dissipation limit it needs a hard reset, which really makes me wish the power switch was on the front.
I tried going over the power limit, triggered over-power protection which switched the load off but it was as simple as pushing the ON button to turn it back on, no hard reset needed. You should check the motherboard revision you are running and compare with what will be shown in the next video (the teardown), you might be running an older version. The current version doesn't have this problem.
Since reviewing this unit has another Battery capacity meter beaten it for accuracy, affordability and build quality? I need to test the capacity of 48v lithium packs that i build out of used EV cells.
How many times did you use this $200 equipment? I already have a $30 chinese with sense, which works well, I don't know if is necessary more than that.
Sorry, I'm still trying to figure out what the max voltage for this is. Now with higher voltage batteries oout there that's important. I think it would have been nice if they would have put a handle on it.
I too would like to see you compare this unit to the East Tester ET5410 or ET5420. Very similar specs. But the ETs have an OLED screen and (apparently) better UI.
Very interesting. I've had one of those 60W electronic loads sitting in my eBay cart for the last few weeks, and while this does look a lot more professional, I think I'll wait for the teardown either way. On the other hand, it does work out to around AU$260, which is probably more than I'd really want to spend. And I've got the feeling that the teardown may reveal whether or not this is good value.
Another informative review. Thank you. I am looking for good quality banana jumper cables (male banana at each end) like you show in your demonstration of the poor contact with 4.2mm terminals. Can you please provide the maker of your banana cables, or link?
Those lights are very old and so is the video (ruclips.net/video/xsRLzmb0l1U/видео.html) Since then, I have replaced some of the LEDs which failed as well as the LED controller with remote which is not a simple touch on/off controller. These need an upgrade to some high CRI LEDs but haven't had the time to deal with them so far.
I contributed to the VisualStudio Software, because I was unable to find the manufacture's software. Thank you for the download links. Unfortunately the link for the full version does not work. I once asked my aliexpress seller to send me the software, but he only provided a Chinese document which describes the calibration process. Let me know, if you are interested in this document.
"Piece of software which you have to obtain through the manufacturer which doesn't respond to emails" This should be reason enough not to buy such a product lol If you're going to use this in an electronics lab of any sort, the lack of product support should be a deal breaker, or, if this is your first electronic load and/or you don't have the means to verify and maintain a proper calibration on the unit. The only way I can see this being a viable product for anyone, is if it's someone who already has the means to verify the accuracy and maintain it's calibration with good quality and accurate instruments they already own. This doesn't make any sense for someone who's starting an electronics lab though.
Not everyone can afford 500+ USD test gear from the mid tier manufacturers or multi thousand dollar test gear from the 1st tier, that's why test equipment like this KP184 has it's own place on the market even with the mentioned limitations.
@@voltlog Totally understandable. On the same token though, people are unlikely to only buy one of these. People are better off getting one from a mid tier manufacturer and then saving the cost by getting these to fulfill the rest of their needs. At the very least, have at least one piece of test gear that will let you accurately test it's accuracy to see how much it's off and how much it drifts over time. If you can't afford to outfit your lab with mid to high end test gear(as would be the case for most of us, myself included), make the most of what you can afford and at least have one accurate test equipment to verify the rest of your equipment. With a mid tier 6.5 digit bench dmm, you can usually devise a way to calibrate out any inaccuracies in these loads(at least to a point that's more than suitable for a home lab) (b^.^)b The other side of the coin is, if this were to break down, without the accurate equipment to repair it, you are out the cost of the device since product support is next to nothing from the manufacturer.
Steve at SDG Electronics did a review and teardown a few months ago: ruclips.net/video/8_fIH9pA2bY/видео.html Jerry Walker showed how to calibrate them: ruclips.net/video/FDHT9bqQ7kw/видео.html
I am aware of Steve's video, there is a comment of mine left on that video 👍 He does have an older revision though as you'll see in the upcoming teardown video.
There are standard 4.2mm binding posts / banana plugs: www.audiophonics.fr/en/banana-plugs/hicon-hi-bm07-banana-plug-red-o42mm-unite-p-7968.html - for the most part they are used in audio to connect speakers. Universal 4.0-4.2 banana plugs are also produced: bit.ly/2Sa5Elh Why such binding posts are used in this load is unclear - the 4mm standard is much more widespread and popular. Perhaps because typical 4mm are not designed for such current.
This might explain how the 4.2mm size is not a manufacturing error (tolerance error) but I'm pretty sure they are not gaining any advantages in current carrying capability because it's the same M5 thread size which dictates the max current.
It's impossible. The standard M5 external thread with a pitch of 0.8mm has a minor diameter of 3.869-4.110mm. M5 thread with a small pitch of 0.5mm has a minor diameter of 4.272-4.439mm, which in principle allows you to have a socket diameter of 4mm, but not 4.2mm. www.engineersedge.com/hardware/metric-external-thread-sizes1.htm But this is not even about that, but about the permissible load of the banana plugs themselves.
@@O1dAlex I just got a brand new KP184 manufactured late October 2021. I measured the inside diameter of the banana binding posts with a micrometer and they are *excactly* 4 mm in diameter. May be the banana binding posts of VoltLog are manufactured out of spec or they tightened the manufacturing specs in the meantime ? On the opposite side I measured several banana plugs of different make and kinds I got lying around. All of them are >= 3.8mm diameter with a lot of tolerances for the cheaper types, the average majority seems to be appr. 3.9 - 4.1 mm. Looking at the bottom of the unit from the outside, the small power transformator seems to have been moved to the back of the unit judging from the screw positions and venting slots visible. The manufacturers "seal" is now covering the last case screw on the left side carrying a "QC Passed" and a handwritten date. You have to damage / remove it to open the case for a look inside, which i didn't do up to now. I probably will do it just for looking at the main board version, any modifications and changes plus soldering problems... The provided "Test Certificate" with handwritten measurements (?), date and serial number of the unit is printed in Chinese unfortunately and I haven't been able to have it translated into English yet ...
1. I have never met micrometers for measuring internal diameters less than 5 mm. However, I do not presume to say that such things do not exist. 2. In the original comment, I only stated that in addition to the widely spread 4 mm standard, there are also 4.2 mm banana posts. 3. In the following - only that: a) it is physically impossible to cut a metric M5 thread on a tube with an internal diameter of 4.2 mm; b) banana posts with a diameter of 4 mm do not allow the specified current by standards.
@@O1dAlex My mistake: VoltLog has measured his binding posts with a caliper like myself (not micrometer as stated before). Some stated, that they found 4.2mm banana plugs but looking at the drawings they are just 4 mm banana plugs with a certain way of constructing them (bunch plugs). My opinion: those 4.2mm binding posts are just out of specs ones for a 4 mm banana binding post. Kunkin probably didn't test befor installation. I got several of those ones too, which look (and measure) quite similar. I looked around Amazon and found M5 mm banana binding posts for 30A and M6 mm ones for 50A. You have to use the screws to get at higher amperage not the banana plugs.
crap interface, give me a analogue ps any day. turn knob to what voltage you want and your done. Dont like having to select volts then turn to voltage required, then pree select or whatever! just too long winded for me. Good videos on it though, thankyou
I really don't understand how something so mass-produced like a 4 mm banana connector can be so much out of spec on the ID. Must be some garbage manufacturer chopping up surplus 4,2mm piping to sell as connectors or something dumb like that. Either way a complete fail in my book.
I had a cheap test unit but up test leads melt falling down onto desk top. That would have caused a fire 🔥 on most desks but mine is made out of glass.
this affordable lab equipment gets more and more popular. looking forward to the teardown, so we can see the true quality of it ;)
Yup, these days we can get decent equipment for less money.
This has been in my Banggood cart for some time, waiting for a potential situation I want to test a power supply with more than 30A my existing Itech load maxes out. Nice to see how it is in practise. Happy to see the teardown later on!
Just a reminder, when using active loads on sources with feedback circuits such as switchmode regulators, you can see instabilities due to interaction of the source loop with the electronic load loop.
ohhh ohh 1:15 you didnt..
that was hot... no spoilers or added sound.. just "au natural"..wow..
It was beautiful... thx.. lets meet again next week.
Why didn't you show the battery discharge function?
What is the resolution of the capacity measurement? (1mAh? 10mAh?)
Any ideas on the accuracy of that?
Please can you reupload the KP184 PC Software (Full 156MB)? Unfortunately, the link is invalid.
120320/0350H PST-1150H UTC. Thank you for the presentation. I am frantically looking for such an DC EL device, for some time. Being a DIY Electronics enthusiast, I have struggled to obtain the true capacity of Li-Ion/ LiFePo4 cells.
I largely depended on the verbal assurances of the venders, who are often hide the true value. for example if the label on the Cell indicates 50Ah (LiFePo4 Cells) most often it is NOT, being 35Ah or less. I have often viewed your YT presentations and have learned many innards and techniques of Electronics. Thanks, for this presentation. stay safe
I'm glad to hear the information showed here on the channel helped you, Good luck!
Thank you so much for linking to the software! I was able to download the light version, but not the full? Can you reupload it? What is the smallest load you can run? 5mA? 1mA? Thanks again!
I'm using this load to test a power bank I'm building and have on several occasions found the load drew more current than the set value. In the past if the KP184 drew excessive current it only happened when I first hit the ON button and hitting the button two more times (turning the load off and back on) caused the proper load setting to be drawn. My current drain tests have run 2 hours to over 13 hours with no problems. All current drain tests have been run at one set current level. However the other day I had the KP184 set to 0.800 A and everything worked fine until about 3 minutes into the test when the KP184 suddenly drew over 4 A, as recorded by the TI bq27441 Fuel Gage in the circuit. This time turning the load off and back on didn’t help.
I’ve stopped using the knob because it has a tendency to jump digits due to contact bounce. The buttons can also experience contact bounce, however it hasn’t been as drastic as the knob. This is very dangerous when you think you’re increasing the current in 0.1 A steps and it suddenly jumps to 2 or 3 A!
With the Power switch being located on the back panel I didn’t notice at first, but the power light is always on whether the power on or off!
Is possible connect another dc load in parallel for more current or in series for more voltage ? For example 2 in series for 300v 40A dc load or 2 in parallel for 150v 80A ?
Very clear and thorough review. Well done! Hopefully, Kunkin will respond with minor changes to make this unit even better. Then I will buy one.
I agree on the substandard user interface. If you like the Kunkin KP184, I think you'll love the East Tester ET5410. I picked one up on Alibaba a while back but I believe Banggood stocks them too. Quite a nice interface, solid build, with similar specs. I appreciate your look at this Kunkin. I was not aware of the multiple interface daisy-chaining of the units.
It blows my mind how expensive some of the competing electronic loads are for such basic functions. I am a huge fan of this one and the East Tester, over the dumb $40 ebay special pink fan ones. What a ripoff. Thanks for the video!
Looks like a decent electronic load with the price in mind, biggest drawback is the 7 segmented display interface, as that can be cumbersome dealing with features and test sequences with such a limited display.
and it doesn't seem the pwm-load intensified fan is a noisy problem as there was no notice of it.
Very credible and convincing video. Good work
Very good review video
Great and honest review. Given the safety issues, this is not CE compliant and should be taken off the market before accidents happen.
Great review - like it! You cover many important points like accuracy measurement - thats great! I dont like the non-fitting 4mm jacks - this is wierd!? Why cant they provide proper fitting jacks! At 40 A this is really important. You should have done a load test with at least 30...40 Amps (maybe with a car battery e.g.). Could be that the plugs started to melt! The point about interference of feedback loops from SMPS with the feedback loops of the load would be interesting to see. Can you reveal the internal frequency of the load loop?
I got one of these about a month ago. It is nice, but takes a little getting used to. The first time I tried battery mode it pulled the cell down below 1 volt overnight. If you go over the power dissipation limit it needs a hard reset, which really makes me wish the power switch was on the front.
I tried going over the power limit, triggered over-power protection which switched the load off but it was as simple as pushing the ON button to turn it back on, no hard reset needed. You should check the motherboard revision you are running and compare with what will be shown in the next video (the teardown), you might be running an older version. The current version doesn't have this problem.
Since reviewing this unit has another Battery capacity meter beaten it for accuracy, affordability and build quality? I need to test the capacity of 48v lithium packs that i build out of used EV cells.
The lack of any decent control software might be forgivable if a detailed protocol specification was available.
That alone would rule it out for me.
No softwre means no battery testing. Really bad .
How many times did you use this $200 equipment? I already have a $30 chinese with sense, which works well, I don't know if is necessary more than that.
I wish this was available in a horizontal form factor. Everything I have is wider than it is tall.
Thanks for the video. The download links doesn't work anymore. Could you please re-upload it? Thanks a lot
So i can use my own softwar application in #C and integrate this in the code to control the dc load also?
Excellent review! Thanks a lot.
Sorry, I'm still trying to figure out what the max voltage for this is. Now with higher voltage batteries oout there that's important. I think it would have been nice if they would have put a handle on it.
You mention HP 3458A a few times, although you’re using a 34401A DMM.
A 3458A would be nice, but a bit overkill for those measurements… 😁
That's my brain playing tricks after being stuck for too long inside the home, it just talks about gear I wish I had 😁
@@voltlog That's a very good wish to have. Imagine a 3458A In The Mail. It'll really touch your bank account. :)
Hi, Where did you buy your multimeter from? I am also from romania and I am looking to buy a bench multimeter. Thanks!
That rear panel positive terminal connection is a bit terrifying! :-o Can it be fixed with a mod? Or is that just how the thing is always going to be?
I too would like to see you compare this unit to the East Tester ET5410 or ET5420. Very similar specs. But the ETs have an OLED screen and (apparently) better UI.
Does this put the fan at full speed at power on? I just got mine and I'm baffled by the fan noise it makes even without load.
The link ( KP184 PC Software (Full 156MB)), are down. Reupp?
Thanks for the great review
Glad it was helpful!
looks like one for my wish list
Can you please check the software download links. they're all broken
let me know if you find any
Very interesting. I've had one of those 60W electronic loads sitting in my eBay cart for the last few weeks, and while this does look a lot more professional, I think I'll wait for the teardown either way. On the other hand, it does work out to around AU$260, which is probably more than I'd really want to spend. And I've got the feeling that the teardown may reveal whether or not this is good value.
Just a quick hint, it looks very good on the inside but the video is coming up next weekend.
Another informative review. Thank you.
I am looking for good quality banana jumper cables (male banana at each end) like you show in your demonstration of the poor contact with 4.2mm terminals.
Can you please provide the maker of your banana cables, or link?
I make my own test leads using good quality 4mm connectors and silicone wires.
Have you done a video on how you installed your workbench light?
Those lights are very old and so is the video (ruclips.net/video/xsRLzmb0l1U/видео.html) Since then, I have replaced some of the LEDs which failed as well as the LED controller with remote which is not a simple touch on/off controller. These need an upgrade to some high CRI LEDs but haven't had the time to deal with them so far.
@@voltlog yes much better LED set up on the market now. Hope some gives you a free one.
Oh, next video will be 300! That's a lot
is this better than East tester et5410?
The link to the software no longer works.
Thanks!!
but with that section of wire coming out, it can't support 40A
I feel the biggest feature of this unit is the 400W capability, so I am disappointed to see you did not verify stable performance at 400W.
I bought one too last year. Really good but the software doesn’t work for me.
Loaded it with 400w no problem.
i have the one wih the pink cooler but with a pc cooler, it works nicely for the price.
good
what about kl 5100
keen
I contributed to the VisualStudio Software, because I was unable to find the manufacture's software. Thank you for the download links. Unfortunately the link for the full version does not work. I once asked my aliexpress seller to send me the software, but he only provided a Chinese document which describes the calibration process. Let me know, if you are interested in this document.
I have updated the link in the description, please try again. In the meantime I have discovered the calibration procedure but thank you!
@@voltlog Thank you for the link for the full version. I tried it, but as you mentioned in you video, there are files missing when I execute it.
@@voltlog Where did you get the calibration procedure? Do you have a link??
Thank You for the Video, can you reupload the Software?;)
Thank Thee :-)
No peek inside ??
Patience
Teardown video has already been released on Patreon and will go public on the channel next Weekend.
The link ( KP184 PC Software (Full 156MB) voltlog.com/y/9r4gu ), 3rd link above, seems to be broken.
I have updated the link in the description, please try again.
@@voltlog ok thanks
You have "range of 0-150V and 0-40W, " in video describtion instead of A
Thank you for catching that 👍
expend a bit more and get a better one safety and quality wise like the Korad KEL103 (around USD 250)
But korad is even lower spec (120V, 30A, 300W), $270 USD.
It's interesting that the unit does not ship with banana plug leads. Maybe because they know they wont fit!
It's not unusual for test gear to ship without banana test leads.
"Piece of software which you have to obtain through the manufacturer which doesn't respond to emails"
This should be reason enough not to buy such a product lol
If you're going to use this in an electronics lab of any sort, the lack of product support should be a deal breaker, or, if this is your first electronic load and/or you don't have the means to verify and maintain a proper calibration on the unit.
The only way I can see this being a viable product for anyone, is if it's someone who already has the means to verify the accuracy and maintain it's calibration with good quality and accurate instruments they already own. This doesn't make any sense for someone who's starting an electronics lab though.
Not everyone can afford 500+ USD test gear from the mid tier manufacturers or multi thousand dollar test gear from the 1st tier, that's why test equipment like this KP184 has it's own place on the market even with the mentioned limitations.
@@voltlog Totally understandable. On the same token though, people are unlikely to only buy one of these. People are better off getting one from a mid tier manufacturer and then saving the cost by getting these to fulfill the rest of their needs. At the very least, have at least one piece of test gear that will let you accurately test it's accuracy to see how much it's off and how much it drifts over time. If you can't afford to outfit your lab with mid to high end test gear(as would be the case for most of us, myself included), make the most of what you can afford and at least have one accurate test equipment to verify the rest of your equipment.
With a mid tier 6.5 digit bench dmm, you can usually devise a way to calibrate out any inaccuracies in these loads(at least to a point that's more than suitable for a home lab) (b^.^)b
The other side of the coin is, if this were to break down, without the accurate equipment to repair it, you are out the cost of the device since product support is next to nothing from the manufacturer.
There’s no way that this thing can produce 40a the input power cord doesn’t even appear to support 20
Steve at SDG Electronics did a review and teardown a few months ago: ruclips.net/video/8_fIH9pA2bY/видео.html
Jerry Walker showed how to calibrate them: ruclips.net/video/FDHT9bqQ7kw/видео.html
I am aware of Steve's video, there is a comment of mine left on that video 👍 He does have an older revision though as you'll see in the upcoming teardown video.
@@voltlog Aah, I wasn't aware the unit had been updated since Steve's review. I look forward to seeing the changes. Thanks!
There are standard 4.2mm binding posts / banana plugs: www.audiophonics.fr/en/banana-plugs/hicon-hi-bm07-banana-plug-red-o42mm-unite-p-7968.html - for the most part they are used in audio to connect speakers. Universal 4.0-4.2 banana plugs are also produced: bit.ly/2Sa5Elh
Why such binding posts are used in this load is unclear - the 4mm standard is much more widespread and popular. Perhaps because typical 4mm are not designed for such current.
This might explain how the 4.2mm size is not a manufacturing error (tolerance error) but I'm pretty sure they are not gaining any advantages in current carrying capability because it's the same M5 thread size which dictates the max current.
It's impossible. The standard M5 external thread with a pitch of 0.8mm has a minor diameter of 3.869-4.110mm. M5 thread with a small pitch of 0.5mm has a minor diameter of 4.272-4.439mm, which in principle allows you to have a socket diameter of 4mm, but not 4.2mm.
www.engineersedge.com/hardware/metric-external-thread-sizes1.htm
But this is not even about that, but about the permissible load of the banana plugs themselves.
@@O1dAlex I just got a brand new KP184 manufactured late October 2021. I measured the inside diameter of the banana binding posts with a micrometer and they are *excactly* 4 mm in diameter. May be the banana binding posts of VoltLog are manufactured out of spec or they tightened the manufacturing specs in the meantime ? On the opposite side I measured several banana plugs of different make and kinds I got lying around. All of them are >= 3.8mm diameter with a lot of tolerances for the cheaper types, the average majority seems to be appr. 3.9 - 4.1 mm.
Looking at the bottom of the unit from the outside, the small power transformator seems to have been moved to the back of the unit judging from the screw positions and venting slots visible.
The manufacturers "seal" is now covering the last case screw on the left side carrying a "QC Passed" and a handwritten date. You have to damage / remove it to open the case for a look inside, which i didn't do up to now. I probably will do it just for looking at the main board version, any modifications and changes plus soldering problems...
The provided "Test Certificate" with handwritten measurements (?), date and serial number of the unit is printed in Chinese unfortunately and I haven't been able to have it translated into English yet ...
1. I have never met micrometers for measuring internal diameters less than 5 mm. However, I do not presume to say that such things do not exist.
2. In the original comment, I only stated that in addition to the widely spread 4 mm standard, there are also 4.2 mm banana posts.
3. In the following - only that:
a) it is physically impossible to cut a metric M5 thread on a tube with an internal diameter of 4.2 mm;
b) banana posts with a diameter of 4 mm do not allow the specified current by standards.
@@O1dAlex My mistake: VoltLog has measured his binding posts with a caliper like myself (not micrometer as stated before). Some stated, that they found 4.2mm banana plugs but looking at the drawings they are just 4 mm banana plugs with a certain way of constructing them (bunch plugs). My opinion: those 4.2mm binding posts are just out of specs ones for a 4 mm banana binding post. Kunkin probably didn't test befor installation. I got several of those ones too, which look (and measure) quite similar.
I looked around Amazon and found M5 mm banana binding posts for 30A and M6 mm ones for 50A. You have to use the screws to get at higher amperage not the banana plugs.
crap interface, give me a analogue ps any day. turn knob to what voltage you want and your done. Dont like having to select volts then turn to voltage required, then pree select or whatever! just too long winded for me. Good videos on it though, thankyou
groove jet I like the interface. You can use the knob or the key buttons to adjust the load.
Reviewer said he was probably(?) going to replace the digit displays with OLED and nice UI.
Stay tuned. And to help him, become a Patreon patron.
.....Those banana jacks concern me! Bad connections = inaccurate readings, and heat buildup @ the plug ins. NOT GOOD!
Do reverse engineering and maybe DIY project on Arduino Nano? To evryone could build one ;)
Hi. Have you check this issue: ruclips.net/video/NGrWOk47wAA/видео.html ??
Mine came with that problem due bad transportation.
Mine doesn't have that problem.
I really don't understand how something so mass-produced like a 4 mm banana connector can be so much out of spec on the ID. Must be some garbage manufacturer chopping up surplus 4,2mm piping to sell as connectors or something dumb like that. Either way a complete fail in my book.
It doesn't make sense to me either because normally 4mm banana sockets are smaller than 4mm (like ~3.8mm).
I had a cheap test unit but up test leads melt falling down onto desk top. That would have caused a fire 🔥 on most desks but mine is made out of glass.