First of all, thank you for your videos. They are very helpfull. I bought one and as expected encountered some issues. The positive plug was grounded due to the contact between the transformer and one of the screws on one MOSFET (issue fixed). Like you, the diameter of the plugs is too big (4.2mm), and the cover is not grounded (issue fixed). Secondly, I found the Kapton tape unstuck on one side of the heatsink, which can create an air leakage, and thus degrade the cooling flow. I also found a bad contact in the power plug on the rear panel, you have to push the cable strongly for it hold, finally I replaced the main câble and it's a bit better. Finally, this afternoon, testing a power supply, the charge went into "OT" over temp. After removing the cover, I found the fan stopped. This was due to a bad contact in the fan connector, I could reproducethe issue by moving the connector. I found nothing special, after reconnecting the contact was correct and permanent. I think I must have touched this connector during the previous disassembly to correct the contact of the transformer with a transistor. I still have to replace the 4mm plugs and to put a main switch on the front panel. In spite of these problems, the load is functional, I tested it at 400W. And the measurements are very accurate. However, I wonder how these electronic loads could have passed the factory final tests!!!!!
I'm realy quite happy with my KP184, but those loose binding posts anoyed me from day one. New binding posts are on order! Thanks for the excellent video and advice!
I bought a Kunkin kp184 with the production year March 2023. The board is V06 (purple board) and also had fluctuations of around 160mA in CC mode. I desoldered the C58 and it was also reduced to 30mA fluctuations.
Wow! Thanks alot! You made my day :-) I found this 50Hz-ripple really annoying, but i could some kind of live with it while doing hi-power stuff. Now i am into a low-power project and started fiddeling around with resistors. That was yesterday. Works as a charm. I also did not bother with contacting the vendor about the software. But now, that it's here ... :-) Applause!!!
There is a another problem with these units. The four screws that hold the fan are connected to the positive lead through the heatsink. Under test these units screws are live. And can pose a potential shock hazard. This may be why they did not ground the side of the case or the back of the case. By grounding the side of the case, you're actually making it more dangerous to turn it on and off while something is connected. Make sure you disconnect the unit under test before turning it on or off. You could also cover the screws with hot glue or silicone, anything to insulate them.
I would like to make a note about the earthing (point 2): In terms of protecting an earth fault originating within the appliance, the rest of the enclosure does not require protective earthing as the mains earth is already present at the transformer stud. You can earth the rest of the case as a functional earth, but it is not expressly required for safety or protection against insulation faults in the transformer.
According to Infineon’s website and datasheet the IRF parts still has the IR markings on them. Otherwise they would’ve update the datasheet with the new marking information. IR being part of Infineon doesn’t mean it cease to exist. Looking at the date code on the pcb showing 2019111 and other components showing 19 date code on some of them most likely means the mosfet having a date code of 9 probably was manufactured in 2019.
To get application working, user need to set on windows system locale to Chinese simplified and after the full package install and reboot replace the files on Program Files with the updated application(small download). @VoltLog I will get instead this unit the ET5410 Electronic Load, you should test that one too.
When my device arrived, the rotary control always went up in the same direction, only with the keys down ... it cost me a little time ... I arrived at the processor after a thorough investigation ..... and a tiny one Well hidden solder bridge found on the processor ... sending back to China is out of the question :( but it works .... :) the final inspection slept there too
just checked that jlpcb you always mention: 6 dollar for a pcb, then 48 for DHL shipping(only option), to which i should add 68% custom tax due to DHL, so for 5 pcbs the minimum is USD 92~, i'll pass on it...
Depends on the country, for me they offer ~$8 airmail shipping, no customs tax on that. If I go with DHL its ~$20. Maybe there are better options available in your country.
If you are not getting the $2 cost then you might be choosing some non-standard options as that cost is only valid for the standard setup. Regarding shipping there are multiple shipping options, their price varies depending on where you are located and especially now during the pandemic shipping costs are higher everywhere so do let us know if you can find cheaper. Most people right now are not even concerned with cost of shipping but rather actually receiving anything in a reasonable time.
@@voltlog i did a quick selection of the most beasic board to check the shipping cost(i think it was 10x15cm), but the only shipping option for 5 boards was DHL. Later i checked out pcbway and they do offer multiple options for my country, one of them china post registered for 7USD shipping(USD12 total), even if it takes 60+ days to arrive paying 10x more for hobby boards is not cost effective (even if i'd pay jlcpcb for dhl shipping which i know arrives in 5 days, the components which i need to get from china will take 60+ days all the same)
First of all, thank you for your videos. They are very helpfull. I bought one and as expected encountered some issues.
The positive plug was grounded due to the contact between the transformer and one of the screws on one MOSFET (issue fixed). Like you, the diameter of the plugs is too big (4.2mm), and the cover is not grounded (issue fixed). Secondly, I found the Kapton tape unstuck on one side of the heatsink, which can create an air leakage, and thus degrade the cooling flow.
I also found a bad contact in the power plug on the rear panel, you have to push the cable strongly for it hold, finally I replaced the main câble and it's a bit better.
Finally, this afternoon, testing a power supply, the charge went into "OT" over temp. After removing the cover, I found the fan stopped. This was due to a bad contact in the fan connector, I could reproducethe issue by moving the connector. I found nothing special, after reconnecting the contact was correct and permanent. I think I must have touched this connector during the previous disassembly to correct the contact of the transformer with a transistor.
I still have to replace the 4mm plugs and to put a main switch on the front panel. In spite of these problems, the load is functional, I tested it at 400W. And the measurements are very accurate. However, I wonder how these electronic loads could have passed the factory final tests!!!!!
You wonder about the factory final test? It's quite simple, they all get a small circular QC sticker and that's it 😁
A very thorough step by step pimping up tutorial, great work!
Thank you!
I'm realy quite happy with my KP184, but those loose binding posts anoyed me from day one.
New binding posts are on order! Thanks for the excellent video and advice!
I bought a Kunkin kp184 with the production year March 2023. The board is V06 (purple board) and also had fluctuations of around 160mA in CC mode. I desoldered the C58 and it was also reduced to 30mA fluctuations.
Wow! Thanks alot! You made my day :-) I found this 50Hz-ripple really annoying, but i could some kind of live with it while doing hi-power stuff. Now i am into a low-power project and started fiddeling around with resistors. That was yesterday. Works as a charm. I also did not bother with contacting the vendor about the software. But now, that it's here ... :-) Applause!!!
Glad I could help!
There is a another problem with these units. The four screws that hold the fan are connected to the positive lead through the heatsink. Under test these units screws are live. And can pose a potential shock hazard. This may be why they did not ground the side of the case or the back of the case. By grounding the side of the case, you're actually making it more dangerous to turn it on and off while something is connected.
Make sure you disconnect the unit under test before turning it on or off.
You could also cover the screws with hot glue or silicone, anything to insulate them.
Yup, mentioned this issue in the review or teardown video.
I thought that the fan has a plastic body? I am not sure how such a connection would exist.
@@bjem2287 The screws go through the fan and into the heat sink, which is directly connected to the load transistors.
I would like to make a note about the earthing (point 2): In terms of protecting an earth fault originating within the appliance, the rest of the enclosure does not require protective earthing as the mains earth is already present at the transformer stud. You can earth the rest of the case as a functional earth, but it is not expressly required for safety or protection against insulation faults in the transformer.
The noise that you measure, is probably the result of the large ground loop formed by the ground clip of the probe.
According to Infineon’s website and datasheet the IRF parts still has the IR markings on them. Otherwise they would’ve update the datasheet with the new marking information. IR being part of Infineon doesn’t mean it cease to exist. Looking at the date code on the pcb showing 2019111 and other components showing 19 date code on some of them most likely means the mosfet having a date code of 9 probably was manufactured in 2019.
Hi I need some advice I bought a kunkin kp184 I would like to connect it to the PC could you advise me which cable to use buyer that is USB thanks
Great job!!! It is a excellent teardown from this interesting Electronic load.
Typical thread sizes of insulated post nuts:
- imperial 1/4"-32tpi
- metric M6×0.75
Is the fan at full speed when you power it on? Just got mine and it does that so I'm wondering if it's normal.Thanks:)
To get application working, user need to set on windows system locale to Chinese simplified and after the full package install and reboot replace the files on Program Files with the updated application(small download). @VoltLog I will get instead this unit the ET5410 Electronic Load, you should test that one too.
Very good rewiew
Excellent follow up.
When my device arrived, the rotary control always went up in the same direction, only with the keys down ... it cost me a little time ... I arrived at the processor after a thorough investigation ..... and a tiny one Well hidden solder bridge found on the processor ... sending back to China is out of the question :( but it works .... :)
the final inspection slept there too
Whats the Flux remover product??
It's called IPA cleanser, nothing special just IPA based cleaner in a spray can.
which flux cleaner do you use?
IPA based cleaner, doesn't really matter, I use whatever I can find the cheapest in a spray can.
5:42 First we have the part number, first we have the part number. I thought youtube was glitching:)
just an editing glitch 👍
Try to decap the mofets using chemical or brute force. Usualy the fake one have small silicon die. then compare with originals.
I'd just measure the voltage drop and temperature at known currents first.
..... Or ask Clark Kent to look at them.
Is there reverse polarity protection?
I don't see it (from what I've seen on a video).
just checked that jlpcb you always mention: 6 dollar for a pcb, then 48 for DHL shipping(only option), to which i should add 68% custom tax due to DHL, so for 5 pcbs the minimum is USD 92~, i'll pass on it...
Depends on the country, for me they offer ~$8 airmail shipping, no customs tax on that. If I go with DHL its ~$20. Maybe there are better options available in your country.
If you are not getting the $2 cost then you might be choosing some non-standard options as that cost is only valid for the standard setup. Regarding shipping there are multiple shipping options, their price varies depending on where you are located and especially now during the pandemic shipping costs are higher everywhere so do let us know if you can find cheaper. Most people right now are not even concerned with cost of shipping but rather actually receiving anything in a reasonable time.
@@voltlog i did a quick selection of the most beasic board to check the shipping cost(i think it was 10x15cm), but the only shipping option for 5 boards was DHL.
Later i checked out pcbway and they do offer multiple options for my country, one of them china post registered for 7USD shipping(USD12 total), even if it takes 60+ days to arrive paying 10x more for hobby boards is not cost effective (even if i'd pay jlcpcb for dhl shipping which i know arrives in 5 days, the components which i need to get from china will take 60+ days all the same)
The link to KP184 PC Software (Full 156MB) @t is not working...
Link is fixed now, thank you!
The link has expired
is there a way to get over 400watt?
Yes, use two or more units together in parallel.
👍