How to replace crank sensor Mercedes C230 M271 engine
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- There are other you tube videos on how to replace these sensors on the V6 engines found in some Mercedes-Benz vehicles. There are none on the C230 with the M271 inline 4-cylinder supercharged engine...until now. If you have the CEL and a code for a faulty crankshaft position sensor, your scan tool shows zero RPM's when cranking the engine and it refuses to start, you most likely have a faulty crankshaft position sensor.
In this video I show you how to assemble the Mega Zord/Voltron of extensions to remove the Crank Sensor bolt. Below are some valuable links should you choose to tackle this job yourself. They will assist you in your journey. Good luck, we're all counting on you.
Cars N' Boba air box removal video
• Mercedes C230 Mass Air...
1/4 inch Torx socket kit
www.amazon.com...
Band Clamp locking tool
www.amazon.com...
I did replace mine today on c230 kompressor 2003, I suggest to go from under. The only parts I have to detach are the two hoses only two bolts, you will see them they are in the way. When it’s unscrew, With a long flat screw driver, push on the latch when the top connector is lock against any part and easy pull the crank sensor.
I have to say this is the best video on these evil nasty sensors! And I can’t stress how important that clip removal tool is! I tried to get the thing off without it and it easily added two hours and at least three scars to my right hand. Shame it was the timing chain jumping on the sprocket that caused my issues in the first place though 🙄. At least I’ve got a spare sensor should I ever be stupid enough to do this again.
Lost it at "megazord of extensions". thx for making this video
Thanks for shooting this video,, mine has been a intergalactic pain in the @SS, but your video helped manage this. Got it out and another 2 hours will likely struggle to get it back in. There is a beer in my future....!!!!
Drink one for me, buddy and I'll do the same for you.
Thanks. I sypathize with the emotional and physical pain ride too. God bless.
Wow, I have never seen something like this before. Hopefully, you did this because you could not lift the car up or did not have acces to a jack.
If you do this from underneath, it takes about 15 minutes, 20 max to replace the cps once you get it up in the air.
What is recommedned is to remove the starter which would push this into about an hour to remove the starter. If i was going in that direction, I would replace the starter so I wouldn't have to do it again. It is not necessery to remove the starter. Some might want to because of the insulated wire which is in the way that goes to the starter. But you can unloosen the csp screw and retightent with a lot less patience than what was required to do this from the top.
Otherwise, remove screws from as line, simply remove the wire clip from the cps and unscrew the e8 screw. I leave the scew in the cps and lift the cps out. Then put the screw in the new cps and push into the block, tightein the cps. Connect wire and replace the two screws holding down the ac line.
Some guys will do this but will remove the six bolts on the steel plate holding the rear transmission mount. The engine will lean back a couple inches and give you more finger access if you have big hands.
Also, just for your information, if you remove the airfilter box, you can remove it as an assembly. Just disconnect the wire terminals and the two e10s at the rear of the box. Remove the intake hose clamp at the rear, the front intake hose, pull up and push back and the assembly will come out and off the lower pins. You do not have to take the airfilter upper cover from the box to remove it.
For going through what you did from the top, you should get some kind of award. If you really could not get under the car and had to do this from the top, you should get some kind of award for patience.
If you really did this from the top, deliberately, you should get a Darwin award
I replaced mine on a clk with same engine and the sensor could be reached from below. Much easier! The only problem was a worn screw head of the sensor retaining screw which made the job a hell to remove with hummer and chisel.
Damn. Nothing is ever easy, is it? Anytime a job looks like it should take me 15 minutes, I assume it'll actually take me 8 hours.
I may try this route on Sunday.
Man. I’m glad I found you and thank you for the content. I’m about to tackle this for a coworkers husband. I might try and jackass it and just get my hand in there. I got kinda smallish/medium Asian hands. I could just touch the plug when I was looking at it today.
Let me know how that goes. I've always wanted to know if I could recruit my niece and her child hands to go where my hands cannot.
@@HollywoodHornet actually called a local shop about it. They go from the bottom. I haven’t jacked the car up yet but I’m gonna grab my lopro jack from my bro and look at it before I go your route. It’s the same way we did our xterras. All else fails I can see the etorx bolt barely and till do the voltron technique you did to break it free and finger it from below if I can.
@@HollywoodHornet so I unplugged it from the bottom my hand is the right size to fit from the top. Also the 2000 c230 I did didn’t have that robust air box.
@@careyedgince mist be nice. I reckon the sensor swap was a success?
@@HollywoodHornet very much. It’s sat for two years and the fuel filter get up wasn hanging last he drove it. So I replaced it and made a jdm hanger. If I can do motor and trans mount for him he’ll be set with new brakes. I gotta buddy with a lift and hoist if anything else since it can drive now.
straight up! love your channel.
Audience, you had me laughing. I know it's a monster to take out. I'm trying to remove mines in my 2002 C240. Your hands will get pretty banged and numb. I'm about to go hit again from yesterday. Wish me better luck🍀 today... Have a Great Day Sir...
Good luck. We're all counting on you.
Not getting notice about your vids ..Working in Jeffco today ...Cool weather is awesome ...The fellas not gonna go to skool in fall ...Buy mo ammo
JeffCo is my kinda place. Fellas usually steer clear of there...for now.
@Wiekram Jokhoe It's hard to see. You can't even see it from above until after the air box and MAF tubing are removed. (On the left-hand drive anyway.
You can see it from below without removing anything tho. Jack up the car and look towards the top of the bell housing. You can clearly see it and the electrical connector running to it from below with enough light. If You're really ambitious you might even be able to remove it from below. I wouldn't try it, having done it from above, but it is visible from below for sure.
Thanks, why don't you take out the hose above sensor for access ?
to remove that hose you need to remove the supercharger :D
Thank you for make this video.
wow! just get a gallon of gas and watch her go!!! LOL!
But the sensor in the photo looks smaller than the one you removed. I have a problem with mine and I put one in and it broke because it was too long. There are two types, a short and a long?
Nice video ;-)
What a pain in the ass to change. Two things to consider for anyone in the future to make this a touch easier. For the first thing plan on flushing the coolant and if you do that you can remove the coolant line that runs right over the CPS sensor and that will give you a better view of the sensor and E8 that needs to removed. Can you do this without flushing the coolant yes you can but you will save time and kill two birds with 1 stone if you flush the coolant while hunting down this CSP sensor and save a lot of time fighting to get your hands in position to hold the socket on the head of the bolt. The other thing I would suggest and this is only if you can, if you are working in a garage turn off the lights then grab yourself a flashlight and go take a look for the sensor, without all the other lights on it is a lot easier to see the sensor and harness. Not everyone will have that option but if you do try it out. I guess I have a third option and that is if you have a car lift and can walk under the car it is easier to get to but not if you have to lay on your back there is not enough room for your arms and shoulders to maneuver above your head IMO, whatever method you use, pack a lunch and grab at least a 12 pack. Oh and one last tip take off your wedding ring or any watches or jewelry it is a very tight fit between the firewall and engine last thing you need to happen is to get your hand caught up by your ring and leave yourself only 1 option get your hand out in tact.
is this accessible through the wheel well?
Good for you, I feel your pain. I did all of that just to change my vacuum hoses underneath that air box 3 yrs ago now I need to do it again this time to change mine too (CS sensor). Did you get the DTC “code” on that sensor?
Yes. The car confirmed that was the issue. Changed the sensor and cleared the code. Runs like a top now.
What code number? I have an issues on my car but the code is not CS sensor.
Have you experienced this code P0171?
@@Jojo51058 I had a lean code too. It might have been a P0171. I fixed the lean code also. It was a small vacuum tube just under the plastic engine cover. It had become old brittle and needed replaced. It's a small tube on the left side of the engine cover. Pull the cover off, look to the left of it (if you are facing the engine from the front bumper) and start there.
@@HollywoodHornet thanks
hi, can I ask where is located the crank shaft sensor on w140 serieS300 TD year 1998?
I'm not as familiar with those cars, but the crank sensor should still be somewhere along the bell housing in order to read the crankshaft location. I'd check along the bell housing, top and bottom until you see the sensor. It will be a sensor bolted to the bell housing with wire running from it to a connection elsewhere (not unlike the C230 in this video).
hello sir! my car has given crank sensor error, I recently started feeling some sort of vibration when the rpm is low, I think it's called low engine speed knocking. do you think that the error is accurate or would there be smh else to cause this problem? [2010 w204 c180 1.6 5 gears m271 engine]
A failing crank sensor will cause vibration at idle. When the sensor is unable to tell the ECU the position of the crankshaft, ignition timing is affected. The vibrations felt are because of misfires. You may or may not have multiple error codes related to misfires, air/fuel mixture, timing, knocking, etc.
If your crank sensor is bad, the misfires/vibrations may be related to the failed sensor, and not necessarily an independent problem with fuel, ignition or other components.
If you have a crank sensor code, replace that first. That will let you know for sure if other codes or symptoms were caused by the crank sensor or if you have another issue to resolve after the sensor is replaced. You'll know immediately after you replace the sensor if that was the issue or not. If it runs perfect afterwards, you're done with the repair.
Was the car idling rough and stalling? I got p0010 and also. Misfiring on all cylinders.
Correct. It would take forever to start and run like shit if and when it did.
@@HollywoodHornet mine starts right away but runs like shit and stalls while driving. I have been told it could be the timing chain...
Well, if you've lift the car and go under , close to the starter motor.. perhaps will take you less time and pain to remove it..
What type of code was it giving?
Crankshaft position sensor
@@HollywoodHornet I have a code p0020 would this solve that
@@arsalanquadri5837 I'm not sure. What does code P0020 say the problem is? For example code C2200 is ABS module. Meaning a replacement of the ABS module will solve code C2200. P0442 is small evap leak. Finding and fixing a small leak in the evap system will solve code P0442. What is code P0020?
@@HollywoodHornet A camshaft position Actuator circuit/ open bank 2
@@arsalanquadri5837 replace the camshaft sensor. A much easier job. The cam sensor is located on the front of the engine. Bank two is the exhaust cam. Replace the cam sensor on the exhaust side.
Edit: it will be the round looking thing sticking out of the head on the exhaust bank. It's more of a solenoid than a sensor, but there will be an electrical connection to it. Unplug it, unbolt the sensor/solenoid and put the new one in.