Very smart! Hopefully BMS manufacturers will see this video and start implementing pre chargers in there BMS. I think the bigger QUCC BMS has a per charger built-in. Good information for people thanks 👍
By the way for those of you with out a resistor, i used my battery tester, which is a huge resistor. hooked up the batteries to one side (positive) and the negative to the jumper that i wanted to connect without major sparks. The tester reads in the green. Then flip the switch as though you were testing a battery to use the large coil resistor inside. Then turn off the switch, and no more voltage reading. And you can watch it climb slowly so disconnect quickly and no spark.... In my case, a 3000W inverter with 6,000 surge capacity. That is one hell of a bank of capacitors to charge all at once, hence sparks like a short...
@@OffGridBasement Thanks, looked around the garage and no resistors, then noticed the battery tester...... And thank you, as there was so much spark I suspected a short, the battery tester gives one both answers safely. If the voltage remains it is more than capacitors.
The resistor method works well! I like the momentary switch setup. I use a 12v test light. You know those things that look like screw drivers but have a alligator clamp and light inside? If you use that the light will light up bright as the capacitors charge and when full the light goes out. I know the capacitors are fully charged that way. My Go Power inverter actually takes about 10 seconds to fully charge the caps. It has to be an incandescent bulb to work which is what most test lights are anyway, the LED test lights cant take the same amount of amps so they may blow. If I ever do a power wall like yours I might steal your momentary switch idea and hook up a 12v bulb to mine!
@@OffGridBasement Good idea! Give it a shot, you can get those 12v test lights pretty cheap from many places. It's neat to get the visual confirmation when charging an inverter. Plus then you have a 12v test light and if you need to troubleshoot or test any basic connections in a vehicle you can with some basic know how!
I can see one issue... If the whole system i running and you happen to just turn the system off with that switch you will damage your Victron Energy controllers. You should have an electrical box to disconnect your solar sightly before it disconnect the power supply. IMHO Remember that DC with higher voltage will give you bigger arcs that should be properly attenuated.
You are correct. I would need to make sure and disconnect the 3 circuit breakers from the solar panels to the charger controllers before turning off the main system switch. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasementwhy would the solar charge controllers get damaged if the battery is disconnected? Wouldn't the system just then be powered with solar?
Hi. Nice work. I would add fuse to protect that precharge circuit. In case if that button get stuck in. Not easy to find this buttons rated for 48VDC. I did my precharge using terminal block and sticking bridge wire for few second. More fail safe.
Nice setup! the only thing is while it is small and so are the capacitors for the grid tied inverter , it didn't get pre-charged through the pre-charge button with the circuit breaker to it turned off. Maybe add another for that, but many small inverters won't potentially blow without one? Thanks for the video, I was going to maybe use a 3 way switch for that, I like your button better though!
@@OffGridBasementif you flipped that switch then what's the point of the button which is wired to it? It makes no sense. It needs to be wired directly to the battery and bus bar.
Great looking system nice job. I need some advice though. I have a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter that came with 40 Amp fuses. What Amp Fuses or circuit breaker should I buy to protect the internal fuses. I was thinking a 30 Amp circuit breaker. But I need your advice. John. Thank you.
I'm guessing the inverter has multiple 40a fuses inside. Probably one for each wire inside. They are to make sure the internal wiring does burn up. If you use a 30a breaker you will get a max of about 400w from the AC side before the breaker pops. Your best bet is to size the breaker to the wire size going to the inverter. Hope that helps!
Thanks! Yes. I wanted to make sure I had room near the inverter. At some point I would love to upgrade to a victron multiplus. Those take up a lot of room!
My admit , I might try a hybrid invertor to make the wire job as simple as possible. ? What guage wire should ,I use for a 24v volt battery, Also if I deside to go 48v what gauge cable for thats Thanks.
@@OffGridBasement Thanks, So many things or pitfalls. Hybrid invertors make some thing easier. But cant see limiters. I have to research. External Limiters next project. Would of hope that new hybrid invertrrs just connect to my smart meter, I have like a kitchen unit displaying usage. Not sure how it connects does not require wifi. Maybe thru mains wires.
Shed is 30 meters from Electric meter..So even with a Solis Grid tie not sure.. If it will be accurate..ruclips.net/video/49nnnspxgrs/видео.html Also solis does not give you the limiter as standard have to buy separatly...The smart meters use IoT internet of things communication provider so not much chance of manufactures conecting...Might be few years away but they can get CURRENT LOAD over a closed network to display in your kitchen monitor.
Hi, installed victron setup but when I installed cut-out switch , positive or negative side voltage reading goes haywire 4- 8 volts dc, everything works perfect without switch.would a resister help this, where did you connect the wires after the resister?
That is strange about the switch. It shouldn't cause anything like that. It's a simple device. A resistor wouldn't help with that situation. Is the switch dirty or have something in it that could cause a disruption in current? The resistor wiring goes: switch post, button, resistor, other switch post.
Can a circuit breaker work the same as a cut off switch? Pushing the button on (disconnecting) it cuts off the battery! Then a button rig can be used like you show before resetting the circuit breaker? It has the same 2 contacts on the positive side! Thanks!
If I have a all in 1 inverter (e.g. Deye) would I need this workaround? Or just plugging it to 220V (turn on) and then to connect the battery is enough? I guess it's because of capacitors, right?
DC Miniature Circuit Breaker, 2 Pole 1000V 32 Amp Isolator for Solar PV System, Thermal Magnetic Trip, DIN Rail Mount, Chtaixi DC Disconnect Switch amzn.to/3Gd6dlR
@@OffGridBasement epic, thanks a ton. I just got my first system online yesterday as a test run and was waiting on finding correct breakers before I put it to use.
I live in the UP of Michigan where we get a lot of cold and snow. I have a very small trappers cabin and maybe spend 8-10 nights there so I just use a a Lifepo4 battery and 1000 inverter. I take the battery out every time I leave (because of the cold) go home and charge it up if needed , so would this be a viable option to install and would it cut down my sparking?
It would, but honestly I would just purchase some resistors and have them on hand when you go to connect the battery. Here is a link to the ones I use. -Tegg 10w Resistors amzn.to/3OpvKfy Hope that helps! Thanks for the comment.
Sir, I thank you so much for all your efforts. However, please go back to the drawing board. Then get some cable ways and put some serious order in your wonderful equipments to protect your investment.
I don't believe so. I believe T-class fuses are really only needed for when you are using very high amperage loads. My system isn't designed for that. I usually max out at around 1500w from the inverter. Now if I were powering my whole house with an 8k inverter, then yes. Thanks for the comment.
Hi, great video! Do you know if there are physically smaller switches the do the same thing yours does but for 10A solar controller systems? I have a tiny diy (5 pounds, 10w / .5A panel, 10A Renogy controller 5Ah battery) backpacking system that I’d like to hook up to a larger capacity battery that I would store at home or in my SUV (for leisure / device charging use) more easily. Thinking I would need two switches (one inside the diy generator case to turn on /off to control the little battery and one next to the bigger battery at home). Thanks!
@@OffGridBasement not really sure that will help you against direct current arc, I thought about some handle load circuit breaker with arc-extiguisher chamber, here a video example what I am talking about: ruclips.net/video/NBniCDzpsWw/видео.html By the way, I have one more question: do you know what voltage or power drop for that load breaker from your video, because I didn't find this information for such devices? Thanks.
@@igornedashkivskyi1472 I know it can handle 600v, but I don't know about any voltage drop from the shut off switch. Thanks for the link. I'll need to watch it on a computer so I can read subtitles.
You are correct and I still haven't! It's more of a cosmetic issue. It actually never gets hot or restricts my system in anyway. I'm sure I will change it out at some point. Thanks for the comment 👍
Your system is the same size as mine so the same equipment would work just fine. Check out the description of the video for links to the products. Thanks!
The resistor required is determined largely by the battery voltage. The one used here (looking at Amazon link in description) is 1000 Ohms. On a 24v battery that will limit the initial current surge from potentially hundreds of amps to an exceedingly cautious 24 milliamps! (Current = Voltage / Resistance) in this case 24/1000 ). It would take many seconds to charge the filter capacitors in the inverters, but better than making them pop off with an unrestricted current surge. There is also a question of power dissipation as heat produced in the resistor. The one used is 5 watts and more than enough. Power = (Voltage x Voltage)/ Resistance (24x24)/1000=0.58Watts For this 24v system a 100 Ohm resistor would allow 240mA to flow (safe) and dissipate 5.8w for a few seconds so also safe and faster. If you’re using a 48v battery, the 1000 ohm resistor would still work, but a 500 ohm resistor would be prefered and use 4.6W while allowing 96mA Hope this helps!
You really should turn PV off first when working on your system. You really don't want to have power coming into your charge controllers with them being about to put that power somewhere.
How to safely shutdown a grid tie solar system with batteries backup? My system is wiring from solar to charge Controller to batteries to inverter to grid.please advise thanks
Hey Jim, im doing a 12v system with a 100ah battery & 2500 inverter. How big is the fuse i need to use & also do i need a switch to disconnect the battery? Tks
It's wise to have a cut off switch but you definitely don't need one. The fuse is meant to protect the wiring. What gauge of wire are you using? If it is 2 awg then use a 150 amp fuse.
Good observation! It is because they are connected to the 12v fuse block and I forgot to turn them off. They are DC lights. They are not powered by the inverter.
You're right! I forgot to record turning on the breakers to the panels! You would want to do that last. A Rasp Pi is a small computer that you can program to monitor your Victron system. It would do the same as a Victron Cerbo.
But shouldn't your resistor be inline, and not parallel? Otherwise you have essentially bypassed the isolator rhe connectors DJI used to use on thier flagship platforms S900 and S1000 come to mind. The male plugs would insert into the female sockets but the positive plug was a 2 piece plug with the tip isolated from the rest of the plug by a resistor. So as you connectef the plug and socket the tip would initially contact the socket and current would run through the resistor then as you further inserted the plug the main part of the plug would make comtact and power could then bypasd thr resistor.
It is in parallel, but you only press the button before you flip the main power on. It's wired to bypass the main switch with the button switch and resistor. Hope this helps.
Hey it's good i am wandering can u tell me how to kill my capacitor bank when it's charging and also after it charged and throw all charges to resistor
The brand is "JQuad". Here is a Amazon Link: amzn.to/3K0i4Gs You can also look at my website for everything in my setup. Go to off-grid-basement and find the "Diagram" section. There you find a PDF with clickable images for everything. I hope this helps!
Did all those years in the prison workshop teach you nothing? You've got to test everything. That switch can only handle 50amps continuously without generating massive amounts of heat. If you're gonna go cheap run 2 of em side by side. 🤠
:-) Thanks for the information and the comment. Since the switch is in line with a 10 ohm resistor there will only be 1-2 amps @ 12v going through the wire.
Parallel a dc lamp with resistor the same voltage as you battery setup 12/24/48 volt when the lamp goes out the voltage at the inverter and battery are the same, no guessing if they are balanced.
Nice video! What caught my attention was that some of your breakers are mounted upside down. Maybe you did that on purpose for some reason? I would think having them all the same way would be safer.. less chance of thinking something is off, when it isn't.. just my 2 cents..
I feel like the item with the most potential energy should be wired through the top. The battery has more potential energy than the charge controller. I definitely could be wrong in my thinking. Thanks for the comment.
You are correct! I usually do when I connect the inverter manually using a resistor, but this time I didn't. I guess I just felt confident... which is a bad idea. It's when you let your guard down you get into trouble. Thanks for the comment!
hahah!! Thanks. I'll probably be cutting my hair this summer. My son wanted us to both grow our hair out. He cut his hair and I'll be doing it soon enough. Thanks for the comment!
Yeah that's all wrong! I think your got yourself all confused! You don't wire your precharge switch across the isolator! When the isolator is off pressing the switch won't precharge anything. It should be connected from the battery to the press down switch through the resistor to the inverter. The flashing lights was probably inrush current which will damage BMS and invertors! All these so-called experts are dangerous! I've been involved in off-grid power since the late 1990s. It's amazing how far tech has come making it easier to get free power and has made it some what safer! BUT the basic principles are the same and if not followed will result in the first free energy!! 🔥🔥FIRE🔥🔥
The flashing lights were from my DC lights connected to the fuse block that I forgot to shut off. Also, I don't believe I ever considered myself an expert. Thanks for the comment and info.
I like that you talk slow enough to follow and don't rush through the explanation. Great video, thanks!
You're welcome and thanks for the comment!
Very smart! Hopefully BMS manufacturers will see this video and start implementing pre chargers in there BMS. I think the bigger QUCC BMS has a per charger built-in.
Good information for people thanks 👍
Yes. I feel like we can't get the word out enough! Thanks for the comment!
By the way for those of you with out a resistor, i used my battery tester, which is a huge resistor. hooked up the batteries to one side (positive) and the negative to the jumper that i wanted to connect without major sparks. The tester reads in the green. Then flip the switch as though you were testing a battery to use the large coil resistor inside. Then turn off the switch, and no more voltage reading. And you can watch it climb slowly so disconnect quickly and no spark.... In my case, a 3000W inverter with 6,000 surge capacity. That is one hell of a bank of capacitors to charge all at once, hence sparks like a short...
That's really good to know. I'll need to try that sometime. Thanks for the info!
@@OffGridBasement Thanks, looked around the garage and no resistors, then noticed the battery tester...... And thank you, as there was so much spark I suspected a short, the battery tester gives one both answers safely. If the voltage remains it is more than capacitors.
The resistor method works well! I like the momentary switch setup. I use a 12v test light. You know those things that look like screw drivers but have a alligator clamp and light inside? If you use that the light will light up bright as the capacitors charge and when full the light goes out. I know the capacitors are fully charged that way. My Go Power inverter actually takes about 10 seconds to fully charge the caps. It has to be an incandescent bulb to work which is what most test lights are anyway, the LED test lights cant take the same amount of amps so they may blow. If I ever do a power wall like yours I might steal your momentary switch idea and hook up a 12v bulb to mine!
Thanks for the info! Maybe I'll get one of the tester lights and try it out. Thanks!
@@OffGridBasement Good idea! Give it a shot, you can get those 12v test lights pretty cheap from many places. It's neat to get the visual confirmation when charging an inverter. Plus then you have a 12v test light and if you need to troubleshoot or test any basic connections in a vehicle you can with some basic know how!
Just a note; I've had much lower device temperatures by aligning heat sink fins vertically.... food for thought. Thanks for the video!
That's a good idea. Better heat dissipation. Thanks for the info!
Idiot
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste .. 🙏🏻 😊 ✌ ☮ ❤ 🕊
You're welcome and thank you for the comment!
Thank you very much. Excellent demostration. Like you said work in progress . I love that thought.
Thank you for the kind words!
Yes thank you. Have a great thanks giving stay safe stay warm. John
To you as well! Thank you.
I can see one issue... If the whole system i running and you happen to just turn the system off with that switch you will damage your Victron Energy controllers. You should have an electrical box to disconnect your solar sightly before it disconnect the power supply. IMHO Remember that DC with higher voltage will give you bigger arcs that should be properly attenuated.
You are correct. I would need to make sure and disconnect the 3 circuit breakers from the solar panels to the charger controllers before turning off the main system switch. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasementwhy would the solar charge controllers get damaged if the battery is disconnected? Wouldn't the system just then be powered with solar?
HOWdy O-G-B,
Nice "momentary -on" Button to pre-charge your CAPACITORS
Thanks
COOP
...
Thanks!
Fantastic thank you. I need to add this to my system. So easy to do.
Yes. It wasn't very difficult. Worth it if you shut off your system regularly. Thanks for the comment!
excellent job there. love all the disconnects
Thanks. I need to fuse the button.
Interesting on your second press of the pre-charger resistor, the overhead lights blinked a few times.
Yes. They are 12v led lights connected to my fuse block. I left them on to see what would happen! Thanks for the comment!
Hi.
Nice work.
I would add fuse to protect that precharge circuit. In case if that button get stuck in.
Not easy to find this buttons rated for 48VDC.
I did my precharge using terminal block and sticking bridge wire for few second.
More fail safe.
That's a good idea. Not constantly connected. Much more safe. Thanks for the comment.
excellent idea i need to do exactlly what youve done here.
I'm glad I could give you some ideas. Thanks for the comment!
try using a 12v light bulb in place of the resistor, and get some feedback on the capacitor charge state!
That's a great idea! Thanks for the comment.
Nice setup! the only thing is while it is small and so are the capacitors for the grid tied inverter , it didn't get pre-charged through the pre-charge button with the circuit breaker to it turned off. Maybe add another for that, but many small inverters won't potentially blow without one? Thanks for the video, I was going to maybe use a 3 way switch for that, I like your button better though!
That is true. I'll need to make sure and flip that circuit on before precharging.
The button does work well! Thanks for the comment!
@@OffGridBasementif you flipped that switch then what's the point of the button which is wired to it? It makes no sense. It needs to be wired directly to the battery and bus bar.
Great looking system nice job. I need some advice though. I have a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter that came with 40 Amp fuses. What Amp Fuses or circuit breaker should I buy to protect the internal fuses. I was thinking a 30 Amp circuit breaker. But I need your advice. John. Thank you.
I'm guessing the inverter has multiple 40a fuses inside. Probably one for each wire inside. They are to make sure the internal wiring does burn up. If you use a 30a breaker you will get a max of about 400w from the AC side before the breaker pops. Your best bet is to size the breaker to the wire size going to the inverter. Hope that helps!
Great video!! one question is there any specific reason why you don't put the kill switch on the negative side?
Thanks! Yes. I wanted to make sure I had room near the inverter. At some point I would love to upgrade to a victron multiplus. Those take up a lot of room!
My admit , I might try a hybrid invertor to make the wire job as simple as possible. ? What guage wire should ,I use for a 24v volt battery, Also if I deside to go 48v what gauge cable for thats Thanks.
It depends on the size of inverter. 3000w @ 24v should be 2awg minimum. 5k @ 48v can use the same gauge cable.
@@OffGridBasement Thanks,
So many things or pitfalls. Hybrid invertors make some thing easier. But cant see limiters. I have to research. External Limiters next project. Would of hope that new hybrid invertrrs just connect to my smart meter, I have like a kitchen unit displaying usage. Not sure how it connects does not require wifi. Maybe thru mains wires.
Shed is 30 meters from Electric meter..So even with a Solis Grid tie not sure.. If it will be accurate..ruclips.net/video/49nnnspxgrs/видео.html
Also solis does not give you the limiter as standard have to buy separatly...The smart meters use IoT internet of things communication provider so not much chance of manufactures conecting...Might be few years away but they can get CURRENT LOAD over a closed network to display in your kitchen monitor.
Good stuff ‼️ Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!
Nice work 👏
Thanks!
Hi, installed victron setup but when I installed cut-out switch , positive or negative side voltage reading goes haywire 4- 8 volts dc, everything works perfect without switch.would a resister help this, where did you connect the wires after the resister?
That is strange about the switch. It shouldn't cause anything like that. It's a simple device. A resistor wouldn't help with that situation. Is the switch dirty or have something in it that could cause a disruption in current? The resistor wiring goes: switch post, button, resistor, other switch post.
Can a circuit breaker work the same as a cut off switch? Pushing the button on (disconnecting) it cuts off the battery! Then a button rig can be used like you show before resetting the circuit breaker? It has the same 2 contacts on the positive side! Thanks!
Yes, absolutely. A circuit breaker can be used as a shut off switch, but it's not designed for that. Andy from the Off Grid Garage has this setup.
What was the value of the resistor? Resistance and power?
They are a 10w 20ohm resistor.
If I have a all in 1 inverter (e.g. Deye) would I need this workaround? Or just plugging it to 220V (turn on) and then to connect the battery is enough? I guess it's because of capacitors, right?
It is because of the capacitors. I use a resistor regardless. I don't like the spark.
Great video by the way!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment.
During switching Off , will there not be spark too ?
Is it only during the Switching ON that spark is expected ?
Yes. There is no spark as long as you turn off the inverter first.
I'm having a absolute horrible time finding dc breakers like you have here. Would you be able to link them?
DC Miniature Circuit Breaker, 2 Pole 1000V 32 Amp Isolator for Solar PV System, Thermal Magnetic Trip, DIN Rail Mount, Chtaixi DC Disconnect Switch
amzn.to/3Gd6dlR
@@OffGridBasement epic, thanks a ton. I just got my first system online yesterday as a test run and was waiting on finding correct breakers before I put it to use.
I live in the UP of Michigan where we get a lot of cold and snow. I have a very small trappers cabin and maybe spend 8-10 nights there so I just use a a Lifepo4 battery and 1000 inverter. I take the battery out every time I leave (because of the cold) go home and charge it up if needed , so would this be a viable option to install and would it cut down my sparking?
It would, but honestly I would just purchase some resistors and have them on hand when you go to connect the battery. Here is a link to the ones I use.
-Tegg 10w Resistors
amzn.to/3OpvKfy
Hope that helps! Thanks for the comment.
Could you can a more detailed instruction on where the wires terminate on the push button to the switch.
The button is just wired in line with the negative wiring along with the resistor.
Sir, I thank you so much for all your efforts. However, please go back to the drawing board. Then get some cable ways and put some serious order in your wonderful equipments to protect your investment.
Thanks for the comment. My next big project is to completely redo my 24v system. A metal cabinet and conduit is going to be a high priority.
@@OffGridBasement thank you so much for your understanding!
nice video thx.u dont need a t class fuse for this system?
I don't believe so. I believe T-class fuses are really only needed for when you are using very high amperage loads. My system isn't designed for that. I usually max out at around 1500w from the inverter. Now if I were powering my whole house with an 8k inverter, then yes. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement thx for the feedback.
Hi i was wondering what ohm resistor you use? Thanks great video
There is a link in the description. Here is the link:
-Tegg 10w Resistors
amzn.to/3OpvKfy
Hope this helps!
@@OffGridBasement Thanks man
Hi, great video! Do you know if there are physically smaller switches the do the same thing yours does but for 10A solar controller systems? I have a tiny diy (5 pounds, 10w / .5A panel, 10A Renogy controller 5Ah battery) backpacking system that I’d like to hook up to a larger capacity battery that I would store at home or in my SUV (for leisure / device charging use) more easily. Thinking I would need two switches (one inside the diy generator case to turn on /off to control the little battery and one next to the bigger battery at home). Thanks!
Thanks for the info. I like the idea of a back pack battery setup. Good thinking and thanks for the comment.
It looks so nice, but what about huge continue spark (arc) when switch off this breaker inverter under the load?..
Thanks
Are you saying I should install a fuse on the line? That is a pretty good idea....
@@OffGridBasement not really sure that will help you against direct current arc, I thought about some handle load circuit breaker with arc-extiguisher chamber, here a video example what I am talking about:
ruclips.net/video/NBniCDzpsWw/видео.html
By the way, I have one more question: do you know what voltage or power drop for that load breaker from your video, because I didn't find this information for such devices?
Thanks.
@@igornedashkivskyi1472 I know it can handle 600v, but I don't know about any voltage drop from the shut off switch. Thanks for the link. I'll need to watch it on a computer so I can read subtitles.
Always shut off the loads before the main breaker! Unless it is an emergency.
crazy the contrast between victron and "reliable"
Victron is definitely top of the market.
But you didn’t even change out the negative 4 awg wire.
You are correct and I still haven't! It's more of a cosmetic issue. It actually never gets hot or restricts my system in anyway. I'm sure I will change it out at some point. Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi. Great work. I have a 24v solar. I have a 3000watt 24v solar inverter wot size Resistor do you think i need plus the Push Button Switch
Your system is the same size as mine so the same equipment would work just fine. Check out the description of the video for links to the products. Thanks!
@@OffGridBasement Hi. I was trying to work out how you connected the wire to the resistor did you solder the wire on? All the best.
@@cabin56 I believe I used a butt splice, but soldering would be a much better option.
Hi thank you.@@OffGridBasement
How do you work out the size of resistor you need for a given Inverter Size and Battery Capacity????
I just use the same resistor for all inverter / battery connections. Thanks for the comment.
The resistor required is determined largely by the battery voltage. The one used here (looking at Amazon link in description) is 1000 Ohms. On a 24v battery that will limit the initial current surge from potentially hundreds of amps to an exceedingly cautious 24 milliamps! (Current = Voltage / Resistance) in this case 24/1000 ). It would take many seconds to charge the filter capacitors in the inverters, but better than making them pop off with an unrestricted current surge.
There is also a question of power dissipation as heat produced in the resistor. The one used is 5 watts and more than enough. Power = (Voltage x Voltage)/ Resistance (24x24)/1000=0.58Watts
For this 24v system a 100 Ohm resistor would allow 240mA to flow (safe) and dissipate 5.8w for a few seconds so also safe and faster.
If you’re using a 48v battery, the 1000 ohm resistor would still work, but a 500 ohm resistor would be prefered and use 4.6W while allowing 96mA
Hope this helps!
is it suppose to turn off AC/Load 1st and PV 2nd
You really should turn PV off first when working on your system. You really don't want to have power coming into your charge controllers with them being about to put that power somewhere.
How to safely shutdown a grid tie solar system with batteries backup? My system is wiring from solar to charge Controller to batteries to inverter to grid.please advise thanks
You are going to start seeing this guy subscriber count increase soon. Just wait and watch unfold.
Many thanks!
Hey Jim, im doing a 12v system with a 100ah battery & 2500 inverter. How big is the fuse i need to use & also do i need a switch to disconnect the battery? Tks
It's wise to have a cut off switch but you definitely don't need one. The fuse is meant to protect the wiring. What gauge of wire are you using? If it is 2 awg then use a 150 amp fuse.
@@OffGridBasement The inverter came with 3awg cables. You recommend to go with 2awg or leave it for now. Thanks for the response 👍
@@sonnic2071 3 awg will be fine since your battery can only output up to 1300 watts. I would then use a 125amp fuse. Hope that helps!
That particular switch becomes extremely hot beyond 50A .... forget about rated 300A.
Thanks for sharing and the comment.
What kind of disconnect switch would you recommend for higher sustained amps?
8:44 Why are the lights flafhing when you push the button?
Good observation! It is because they are connected to the 12v fuse block and I forgot to turn them off. They are DC lights. They are not powered by the inverter.
9:23 What is a Rasberry pie ? 9:55, turn back on the solar pannels braker ?, before all that replace the 4G cable. :-0). Thank You for this video.
You're right! I forgot to record turning on the breakers to the panels! You would want to do that last. A Rasp Pi is a small computer that you can program to monitor your Victron system. It would do the same as a Victron Cerbo.
But shouldn't your resistor be inline, and not parallel? Otherwise you have essentially bypassed the isolator rhe connectors DJI used to use on thier flagship platforms S900 and S1000 come to mind. The male plugs would insert into the female sockets but the positive plug was a 2 piece plug with the tip isolated from the rest of the plug by a resistor. So as you connectef the plug and socket the tip would initially contact the socket and current would run through the resistor then as you further inserted the plug the main part of the plug would make comtact and power could then bypasd thr resistor.
It is in parallel, but you only press the button before you flip the main power on. It's wired to bypass the main switch with the button switch and resistor. Hope this helps.
Hey it's good i am wandering can u tell me how to kill my capacitor bank when it's charging and also after it charged and throw all charges to resistor
Those are items I don't regularly work with so I wouldn't be the person to give out advice. Sorry. I hope you find the answers you're looking for.
@@OffGridBasement okay thanks for ur reply
You should buy the one with copper bolts.
I didn't even think about it. Good idea. Thanks for the comment.
Hi. What are your busbar brand
The brand is "JQuad". Here is a Amazon Link: amzn.to/3K0i4Gs
You can also look at my website for everything in my setup. Go to off-grid-basement and find the "Diagram" section. There you find a PDF with clickable images for everything. I hope this helps!
@@OffGridBasement very informative thank you
Did all those years in the prison workshop teach you nothing? You've got to test everything. That switch can only handle 50amps continuously without generating massive amounts of heat. If you're gonna go cheap run 2 of em side by side. 🤠
:-) Thanks for the information and the comment. Since the switch is in line with a 10 ohm resistor there will only be 1-2 amps @ 12v going through the wire.
Parallel a dc lamp with resistor the same voltage as you battery setup 12/24/48 volt when the lamp goes out the voltage at the inverter and battery are the same, no guessing if they are balanced.
That's a good idea. Thanks for the info and the comment.
Nice video! What caught my attention was that some of your breakers are mounted upside down. Maybe you did that on purpose for some reason? I would think having them all the same way would be safer.. less chance of thinking something is off, when it isn't.. just my 2 cents..
I feel like the item with the most potential energy should be wired through the top. The battery has more potential energy than the charge controller. I definitely could be wrong in my thinking. Thanks for the comment.
Breakers in up position is on.😊
Should've worn safety glasses to set a good example.
You are correct! I usually do when I connect the inverter manually using a resistor, but this time I didn't. I guess I just felt confident... which is a bad idea. It's when you let your guard down you get into trouble. Thanks for the comment!
You look so much better in this video with your hair cut in, should I say, a more "mature" manner.
hahah!! Thanks. I'll probably be cutting my hair this summer. My son wanted us to both grow our hair out. He cut his hair and I'll be doing it soon enough. Thanks for the comment!
Yeah that's all wrong! I think your got yourself all confused! You don't wire your precharge switch across the isolator! When the isolator is off pressing the switch won't precharge anything. It should be connected from the battery to the press down switch through the resistor to the inverter.
The flashing lights was probably inrush current which will damage BMS and invertors!
All these so-called experts are dangerous! I've been involved in off-grid power since the late 1990s. It's amazing how far tech has come making it easier to get free power and has made it some what safer! BUT the basic principles are the same and if not followed will result in the first free energy!! 🔥🔥FIRE🔥🔥
The flashing lights were from my DC lights connected to the fuse block that I forgot to shut off. Also, I don't believe I ever considered myself an expert.
Thanks for the comment and info.
K
:-)
You should not have to do all that with every inverter come on now
It is overkill. I've used it once since I installed it over a year ago. I just wanted to show it can be done. Thanks for the comment.
What a mess.....and all those electric devices on a wood panel.... What a joke
Just like life, it's a work in progress. Thanks for the comment.
Unbelievable mess!