Imagine fighting your way through a boulder problem in a roof for 5 minutes and then someone clips in your harness and tells you that you have to lead climb
Magnus Midtbo sent this with no kneepads and no fan in half the time. Many forget what an absolute beast on the rock he used to be. The kneepads definetely had to lower the grade at least to 9a+, Ive seen some people who climbed it say this is noticably easier than the original.
In addition to the fan, somebody should rappel down to each hand hold and brush it as he climbs. Someone should also be dedicated for blowing on his fingers for extra moisture reduction.
It’s a little ridiculous. High-level climbers often wait for the most ideal conditions to attempt a project, but having a dude follow you with a fan is a little much.
This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
I would really like to hear the thoughts of Alex Megos about this send. And the fan guy standing on a ladder is a bit much, there is no way around that. But anywayz I bet 100 eur, that if his shinn would be 3 cm shorter, he would not have done it with an army of fan guys. So the next step will be to build a tent around the route and air-condition the whole place. I wonder how no boulders have been tent-ed yet.
I really can't believe that this kneebar fest has the same difficulty as Golpe de Estado or Jumbo Love. A weird mixture of technicality meets brutality with a dash of enduro ;)
Exactly! This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
Dave is the most inspiring climber to me, the fact that 15b can be sent without blood curdling screams makes me think you actually have it figured out rather than being physically stronger than the climb. Dave you are truly the best and most unique climber I have ever seen climb. Send hard and prosper🤙
Comments at the end of the video are magical: Dave afther sendign: I'm gonna puke Dave to Citro (the fan guy): thanks for the air Primo: how the fuck i stop recording this shit Congrats Dave!
Sure, the fan on a ladder and clip in was a bit much but jeez guys, this is 16+ minutes, mostly inverted, on crimpers, pinches, toe hooks, etc. Knee bars don't keep your heart rate from rocketing up. Climbing is a different world now. Hell of an accomplishment.
Rodellar: A dude climbs an sit start to a route that is linked to another route that has like 10 extensions with two kneepads while the other dude on th ground holds a big fan in his face all the time Frankenjura: A dude is offended by a new COMPLETELY SEPERATE route next to his and chips the bolts Altmühltal: If you don't break your legs (or neck) falling in the sketchy af 6m to the first bolt, the route is overbolted
@@MrWhoabuddy you have to have someone clip the rope in for this kind of route... what's the alternative, be clipping draws 5 feet off the ground and have insane rope drag the whole way?
If he couldn't have send it without fan then isn't that the definition of aid? If he could send it without it then why didn't he. A fan is an external thing and it was carried around by another person. I'm open to change my mind on this thing, I'm more on the OP side rn though
Shoes are aid. chalk is aid. Fans are aid. Knee pads are aid. Get over it it’s climbing rocks. If you aren’t hanging on gear and you do it clean under your own power it’s a send. Dudes out here climbing 5.15b for 20 minutes just for 5.8 climber keyboard warriors to bash
I really enjoy comparing different climbing styles/different climbers on the same route so here‘s magnus midtbos video to whom it may concern :) ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html
Everyone's worried about a fan? What about Dani doing all moves without knee pads? Can't be the same grade with all of those rest points that the knee pad allows for... ruclips.net/video/P-JZjl4K_S8/видео.html
Exactly! This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
Exactly! This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
@@drtimoneill Laura Rogora also did it with much fewer knee bars. But I don’t think using a lot of knee bars is “cheating”. I don’t know why the other climbers didn’t use that many, but maybe they just couldn’t? Finding knee bars and using them also takes skill, power and endurance.
@@Mike-oz4cv Did she have pads taped to each knee? Did she have a fan guy? The fact we even have to ask 'how' they did it is the point. It's simply not a 'what' anymore. Times and ethics have changed so really I don't need to ask any more, clearly the 'when' is from now on it's just a different sport.
@@drtimoneill I think knee pads are generally allowed and not frowned upon. Not sure if taping them is allowed. I think your criticism boils down to him using a different beta. Which is fine. If somebody finds a new and easier beta it can result in the downgrade of a route though. Regarding the fan guy: Yeah, that was pretty ridiculous. Personally I think it would have distracted me more than it helps, but I don’t climb 9b roofs ;) I don’t know what the climbing hivemind has to say about external help. I’ve always found it borderline cheating when somebody gives chalk to boulderers during a climb instead of them carrying their own chalkbag.
Original ascent and grade did not include 29 kneebars. Why people don't downgrade instead of remaining quiet I don't understand. Slice of life ring a bell ? Dave is really one of the best climbers in American history and Dave's long term time span at the top end of climbing is incredible. This video to me really just shows me his mastery of the kneebar ,not climbing 15b.
@@philipdegle lmao what? Congratulation on being the single most humorless, uptight asshole I've ever encountered in any setting in the climbing community.
I know it’s been said a hundred times at this point but this is simultaneously impressive, bizarre, and a bit sus with the fan. All in all seems like typical Dave Graham, probably just doing it for himself not caring about what people think of the aid
The endurance, the patience, the pure determination... to hold up that fan for so long. What a hero.
HAHAHA I love you ...
Your comment is what "winning" looks like. Bravo Madame.
@@vashusan1984 Charlie Sheen's life is what "winning" looks like ...
If I was Dave Graham, this comment would have bothered me. As I'm not, I instead, laughed my fucking ass off. Hats off!
Lol! 😂
¡SpOiLeR AlErT!
Allez Count: 47
Knee-bars placed: 29
Fan: Runs the entire time
Dave Graham: Still crushes
He fucking better crush with all that aid
You missed the 'tranquilo' counter
the guy with the fan definitely has sore shoulders
Hahaha I can't believe you actually counted the 'allez allez allez'
did you count vengas?
Looks like we found your biggest fan.
i hate you
This currently has 69 likes.. nobody better screw it up
where can I buy the send crew package with the fan guy included
£5.99 on amazon
sacks or 10.99$ USD
The fan guy is the real MVP here
Climbing 9b is cool, but holding up a fan for 17 minutes! That’s some next level shi
A true fan in the literal sense
The camera guy is funny af!
This just might be the hardest aid route ever sent XD
As of today I am removing "Let's Go!" from my repertoire and adding "Continue!"
How many kneebars do you wanna use?
Dave Graham: Yes
Imagine fighting your way through a boulder problem in a roof for 5 minutes and then someone clips in your harness and tells you that you have to lead climb
Akira is just like that
Thought Citro would come rappeling down with the fan at the end.. a pitty
Wow that was incredible and awesome to watch, you're a true inspiration, Mr. Fan Guy. Ah and nice climb Dave, well done...
damn dave speaks some real good spanish, thats probably how he got the makita fan package
Wow.. 16+ minutes on the wall.. or hanging from the ceiling. Congrats Dave, incredible effort!
Props to the send crew and fan guy too!
love how he got the biner clipped on his harness but closed it himself
I think the other guy screwed it shut (or maybe only partially shut) and he just checked again.
you can see the guy was gonna screw it on, but dave moved to adjust his kneebar so he didn't get the time
Yeah I thought the same. The guy could have closed it too
Magnus Midtbo sent this with no kneepads and no fan in half the time. Many forget what an absolute beast on the rock he used to be. The kneepads definetely had to lower the grade at least to 9a+, Ive seen some people who climbed it say this is noticably easier than the original.
Yes but if you do the route smoking 5 joints a day and drinking 2 wine bottles every night, its 9b/+ for sure!🤣
JjjjjJJJAJJJAJJAJJJJJAAJJAJAJAJA
@@nowelsss
that gave me goosebumps - so inspiring to see dave after so many years of climbing still crushing!
The climbing to lowering ratio on this climb is of the charts haha
Sick send!!
Awesome send! Also worlds greatest belay right there, a real stand up job...
Fan Guy didn't even kneebar once!
In addition to the fan, somebody should rappel down to each hand hold and brush it as he climbs. Someone should also be dedicated for blowing on his fingers for extra moisture reduction.
Talk about endurance man, holy shit.
he had a knee bar like half the time lmao
(and obv his endurance is really good, too)
@@liamd6238 But you gotta be really good at knee-baring, too. Otherwise your legs burn through pretty fast :D
Graham or the fan guy?
@@jrblackify i love this comment
and Andrada sent this back in 2007 without kneepads and without fan??? holy shit!
pretty sure having a guy plow a fan over each hold is definitely aid.
Yes, it is known from 2009 that this route is 9b / 6c+ F0 (fan aid)
@@Safex Incredible response. One of the best on RUclips!
It’s a little ridiculous. High-level climbers often wait for the most ideal conditions to attempt a project, but having a dude follow you with a fan is a little much.
Been watching you for a long time Dave. True inspiration in my climbing life. Great to see you enjoying the hell out of life!!
Dang, that was possibly the most impressive body tension I've ever seen on a climb
Super underrated comment right here. Insane.
Definitely the coolest climbing I have seen so far. Amazing! 🙌
yea it's cool alright thanks to the fan.
The fact that this man could focus with that goddamn music playing is the real feat.
Now this is what I call fan service!
Well done Dave, venga!!
He did more kneebars in one route than Adam Ondra in one year 😲
This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
you should watch ondra on silence climb, dude basically when camping on that rout lmao
Very good Dave. Super. Continue. Allez.
I finally know where and what the start of Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Low Start SDS Extension Direct is!
You forgot the “Total” part..
Up there as one of the most impressive bits of climbing I’ve seen.
This is probably the wildest thing this channel has posted and this channel has posted a lot of very wild things. Amazed!
Fan dab
This is a weird damn sport climb
I think this takes the crown for the most knee bars in a route
good job dave
I would really like to hear the thoughts of Alex Megos about this send. And the fan guy standing on a ladder is a bit much, there is no way around that. But anywayz I bet 100 eur, that if his shinn would be 3 cm shorter, he would not have done it with an army of fan guys. So the next step will be to build a tent around the route and air-condition the whole place. I wonder how no boulders have been tent-ed yet.
Sure...americans and AC...
Cant say im a "FAN" of the fan.
Might have to start calling it Ali Kneebar ;)
Great to see Dave crushing!
I really can't believe that this kneebar fest has the same difficulty as Golpe de Estado or Jumbo Love. A weird mixture of technicality meets brutality with a dash of enduro ;)
Exactly! This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
@@drtimoneill nice couch grading dude
@@drtimoneill Maybe you could say that if you've climbed 9B
THIS IS THE SHIIIIIIIITTTTTTT. MY MANS SHIT ON IT!!!!!!!!!!! So wish I was there ya'll... dang that looks fun. Best vibe ever.
Dave is the most inspiring climber to me, the fact that 15b can be sent without blood curdling screams makes me think you actually have it figured out rather than being physically stronger than the climb. Dave you are truly the best and most unique climber I have ever seen climb. Send hard and prosper🤙
Hey bro don’t hate on the blood curdling screams
Craziest boulder route ever! It had ropes!
That was amazing!
Looks like knee-bars are quite useful on this route......
I never thought of climbing as team sport, guess I was mistaken :).
Comments at the end of the video are magical:
Dave afther sendign: I'm gonna puke
Dave to Citro (the fan guy): thanks for the air
Primo: how the fuck i stop recording this shit
Congrats Dave!
Lo amo! Qué tío más carismático 😂🤣🤙🏼
Sure, the fan on a ladder and clip in was a bit much but jeez guys, this is 16+ minutes, mostly inverted, on crimpers, pinches, toe hooks, etc. Knee bars don't keep your heart rate from rocketing up. Climbing is a different world now. Hell of an accomplishment.
That was incredible! Thank you for sharing!
Gotta be the longest and hardest way to climb about 3 meters high!
Get it Dave! Awesome
The wizard.. doing what he does best!
This man just climbed for 16 minutes straight....
Thanks for the experience!
Is this the original version of Ali Hulk Sit? Seems longer. Dave the Knee bar king. Legend.
fan-driven climbing
Rodellar:
A dude climbs an sit start to a route that is linked to another route that has like 10 extensions with two kneepads while the other dude on th ground holds a big fan in his face all the time
Frankenjura:
A dude is offended by a new COMPLETELY SEPERATE route next to his and chips the bolts
Altmühltal:
If you don't break your legs (or neck) falling in the sketchy af 6m to the first bolt, the route is overbolted
Shoutout to the hardest working knees in the biz.
Fan Spotters Are Aid - change my mind
@@MrWhoabuddy you have to have someone clip the rope in for this kind of route... what's the alternative, be clipping draws 5 feet off the ground and have insane rope drag the whole way?
he could have just done it at a better season with no fan and it would be the same. But since it was a shit season he made the best of what he had.
If he couldn't have send it without fan then isn't that the definition of aid? If he could send it without it then why didn't he. A fan is an external thing and it was carried around by another person. I'm open to change my mind on this thing, I'm more on the OP side rn though
I mean it's the first time a see something like this anyway. Also he is a legend and all
Shoes are aid. chalk is aid. Fans are aid. Knee pads are aid. Get over it it’s climbing rocks. If you aren’t hanging on gear and you do it clean under your own power it’s a send. Dudes out here climbing 5.15b for 20 minutes just for 5.8 climber keyboard warriors to bash
I really enjoy comparing different climbing styles/different climbers on the same route so here‘s magnus midtbos video to whom it may concern :)
ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html
they should change the name of the route to "Rodillar" 🤣
OMG pitch it to them, deserves that name change haha
Fan guy is like the brush people in curling... hero
I would Dave's fan for weeks if only to see a send like this!!!!
Who else's arms got tired just looking at the fan guy?
Holding that fan would be really exhausting...
Dave Graham as he hangs upside down:
Everyone's worried about a fan? What about Dani doing all moves without knee pads?
Can't be the same grade with all of those rest points that the knee pad allows for...
ruclips.net/video/P-JZjl4K_S8/видео.html
Dani also crushes it no qualms. One finger pocket lock off , say nuttin
This might be the case, but Dave climbs the 'extension total' version, which adds another extension to the version first ascended by Dani Andrada.
magnus did the same. watching this ascent was painful
Exactly! This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
Mellow x Makita?!?! Chalk white color way is 🔥!
What a magician!
Wizard !
If you know, you know
If you don’t know, now you know
Fan guy is aid
Damn that route looks sick as hell.
I know it’s a fan but I’m pretending it’s a boom box 🎶 🕺🏼.
I think we have a new knee bar world champion.
Exactly! This is what a 9b looks like! No knee pads and just 1 one leg knee bar when tying in at the lip ... ruclips.net/video/ul6CkmmDsjw/видео.html&ab_channel=BAProductions91. Two taped on knee bar pads and 10 knee bars does not a 9b make. Dave has 2 choices, either to downgrade it or claim some other climb that isnt 9b. Sorry fan bois.
@@drtimoneill Laura Rogora also did it with much fewer knee bars. But I don’t think using a lot of knee bars is “cheating”. I don’t know why the other climbers didn’t use that many, but maybe they just couldn’t? Finding knee bars and using them also takes skill, power and endurance.
@@Mike-oz4cv Did she have pads taped to each knee? Did she have a fan guy? The fact we even have to ask 'how' they did it is the point. It's simply not a 'what' anymore. Times and ethics have changed so really I don't need to ask any more, clearly the 'when' is from now on it's just a different sport.
@@drtimoneill I think knee pads are generally allowed and not frowned upon. Not sure if taping them is allowed. I think your criticism boils down to him using a different beta. Which is fine. If somebody finds a new and easier beta it can result in the downgrade of a route though.
Regarding the fan guy: Yeah, that was pretty ridiculous. Personally I think it would have distracted me more than it helps, but I don’t climb 9b roofs ;) I don’t know what the climbing hivemind has to say about external help. I’ve always found it borderline cheating when somebody gives chalk to boulderers during a climb instead of them carrying their own chalkbag.
Didnt Dani Andrada do this without pads? Also wouldnt it be like 15c then..
Whats the point of roping up 5 feet from the ground when the belayer has 8 feet of slack
The essence of climbing right there. Dave is a somewhat technician
A kneebar*
Would be interesting to see the ascent (and the same beta) without kneepads
There are other ascents online where they didnt use them...I think first repeat by Magnus he didn't have knee pads
There's a video of Magnus doing it somewhere but he probably used diff beta
@@krux933 yeah, I'm also not sure - I think this is the sit start 'total' which I think adds a few moves from the original sit magnus sent
@@mitchellblanchard7838 there's like a million versions of this damn route. Regardless both variations if they are different are still 9b.
Can it really be counted as a send if no one screams LET'S GO!! after?
This isn’t hypnotized minds????
Please don’t make us wait 7 years I beg of you
David's Animal!
Original ascent and grade did not include 29 kneebars. Why people don't downgrade instead of remaining quiet I don't understand. Slice of life ring a bell ? Dave is really one of the best climbers in American history and Dave's long term time span at the top end of climbing is incredible. This video to me really just shows me his mastery of the kneebar ,not climbing 15b.
WTF DUDE
It was really a 17min climb. Insane
How many knee bars? All of them.
Mind like a steel trap having to remember all of that beta!
I’m 25, not very good at climbing, and suck at knee bars but I want to be Dave Graham when I grow up.
Just start with the kush and eventually you'll get there
not to touch a sore spot but does this mean the island is no more?
MUY BIEN!!! *gets lowered 15 feet*
29 knee bars and still 9b?????
Magnus Midtboe video without knee-bars shoul be 9c+ right???
Amazing!
Unsung hero of the send is jebrone with the fan
Fantastic 💪🏼😉👍🏼
Now I know why I can't send 5.15. I just don't have a guy holding a fan to my face the whole time. It all makes sense now.
You maybe cant even climb a 5c warmup boulder so just dont be a prick and give him the send
@@philipdegle lmao what? Congratulation on being the single most humorless, uptight asshole I've ever encountered in any setting in the climbing community.
Que animal! Increíble!
Very good, Dove Grehem!
Jesus Crist, this dude is wyld.
Looks so much fan
"Ali - Dave - Super!"
I’ve never seen Adam Ondra climb with some dude pointing a fan at him the entire time
That's how he'll send a 9c+
This just ruined climbing for me...
Time to get into professional fanning
I know it’s been said a hundred times at this point but this is simultaneously impressive, bizarre, and a bit sus with the fan. All in all seems like typical Dave Graham, probably just doing it for himself not caring about what people think of the aid