Biggest surprise was Tomoa missing out on the finals. I knew lead wasn't his strength, but I was sure that with his bouldering score he was basically through already. My money is now on Sorato and Toby, and I'm very uncertain about 3rd podium. Before the Olympics I would have said Jakob, but Adam looks to be in really good shape. I'm rooting for Alberto, though. So many people disrespected him after his win at the Tokyo Olympics, I want to see him win another medal.
I was so surprised about the entries from Australia Men's, and South Africa Men's and Women's. It was quite a surprise to see such a huge gap in capability between them and the rest, and it didn't seem right personally. I find it difficult to accept that those are the best offerings from these countries. I will say how impressed I was with Oce, her performance was absolutely amazing and you can tell just how much she has benefited from training alongside climbers such as Natalia and Brooke!
Route was very very hard but there was a very big gap between the climbers who qualified and the ones who didnt. Not only that but the points across boulder and lead were very balanced so I genuinely think the setters did a great job
The setters got this so very wrong in my opinion. The tricky black section was so difficult it basically determined who got to the final. This made the entire bouldering section irrelevant to the results. Sorato qualified without even needing to Lead climb. What is that about? Having said that I think the best eight climbers are in the final so it should be very entertaining. The setting in the women's bouldering made much more sense than the men's bouldering.
It does say a bit that the winner of the boulder round didn't need to climb lead to progress through but the competitor in 2nd place climbed lead and didn't make it through.
That doesn't prove your point at all. Sorato qualified without doing lead because he did so much better than everyone else in boulder, so it was very relevant. Both halves of the competition were brutal but the strongest climbers made it working produced a great final.
@@lonesome3958 If God helps anyone win that would be unfair, wouldn't it? Praying for good health and avoiding injury would be fine but praying to win is just not right unless you consider your opponents to be demons that you need God's help to defeat.
Sadly we didn’t manage to get one beforehand 😭 Hopefully we’ll get one following on from the Olympics. Understandably his schedule within the lead-up was rather busy!
@@TheCuriousHobbit here’s what the offer says: ‘Offer on Standard tier until 11.08.2024 via selected subscription providers. £3.99/month until the end of 2024 and then automatically renews at £6.99/month from 2025 unless cancelled prior to renewal.’ That last bit is key. Means you can cancel at any time. I’ve already cancelled mine!
The scoring system is broken. With Sorato coming out already qualified for the combined, without having done any combined climbing whatsoever, proves their system is borked. They set the boulders far too stiff and rewarded only one style. And yes, Sorato was awesome, but he excels at that style. Setting needs to reinvent itself. Still, I'm pleased overall with the finishing 8, even if it absolutely sucks (and is not a good reflection on setting) to have Megos out.
I think the scoring system works well, especially as climbing is a fairly new event in the olympics and needs to remain somewhat accessible for the general audience. I think its unfair to complain about Sorato being so good, but it could also be the same dilemma with Janja. Its the olympics and as we're seeing absolute focus is necessary to even attempt reaching the podium, theres no room for error. I was suprised that tomoa and megos fell so early but thats how it goes. Still an interesting competitions regardless and I am unfamiliar with alot of the younger talent. Rooting for Adam Ondra!
I don't think you can say they set the boulders to one style that benefitted Sorato when he only topped 2 out of the 4. If it suited him so well, he should've sent all 4.
I think by this point people just look for things to complain about. Scoring is fine, setting is fine. It was difficult but it is Olympics, it has to be special and not another world champ. As mentioned Sorato topped only 2/4 just shows again that people complain without paying attention. Megos slipped where it was slippery, true, but others didn't. I'm happy for Alberto, dude got too much undeserved hate for circumstances he had no control over. I doubt he will make it to the podium but still great to see him in the finals.
What was the biggest surprise of the day? And whose your money on now we've seen both lead and boulder?
As a german im really sad for megos his fall was clearly not necessary and he could have had a top 3 performance for sure
@@konstantinheller4661 We're gutted for Alex. You could see how devastated he was after the fall.
Biggest surprise was Tomoa missing out on the finals. I knew lead wasn't his strength, but I was sure that with his bouldering score he was basically through already.
My money is now on Sorato and Toby, and I'm very uncertain about 3rd podium. Before the Olympics I would have said Jakob, but Adam looks to be in really good shape. I'm rooting for Alberto, though. So many people disrespected him after his win at the Tokyo Olympics, I want to see him win another medal.
Alex Megos slipped unexpectedly when he wasn't even strained on a slippy foothold. Pretty Sad. The Slovenian climber slipped on the same spot
I was so surprised about the entries from Australia Men's, and South Africa Men's and Women's. It was quite a surprise to see such a huge gap in capability between them and the rest, and it didn't seem right personally. I find it difficult to accept that those are the best offerings from these countries. I will say how impressed I was with Oce, her performance was absolutely amazing and you can tell just how much she has benefited from training alongside climbers such as Natalia and Brooke!
Route was very very hard but there was a very big gap between the climbers who qualified and the ones who didnt. Not only that but the points across boulder and lead were very balanced so I genuinely think the setters did a great job
@@pandemonium78 Think you’re right. Suspect the Final will be very different!
Don't think we can say there are "no boulderers in the mix" for the finals when you've got the 2023 overall Boulder world cup champion - go Sorato!
Sorato is also the overall lead champion so he doesn't count as a boulderer... :p
@@peggykao5948 not sure I agree with that logic! 😂.. why can't he be both? Being a lead climber doesn't mean he's not a boulderer.
The setters got this so very wrong in my opinion. The tricky black section was so difficult it basically determined who got to the final. This made the entire bouldering section irrelevant to the results. Sorato qualified without even needing to Lead climb. What is that about? Having said that I think the best eight climbers are in the final so it should be very entertaining. The setting in the women's bouldering made much more sense than the men's bouldering.
It does say a bit that the winner of the boulder round didn't need to climb lead to progress through but the competitor in 2nd place climbed lead and didn't make it through.
That doesn't prove your point at all. Sorato qualified without doing lead because he did so much better than everyone else in boulder, so it was very relevant. Both halves of the competition were brutal but the strongest climbers made it working produced a great final.
praying ondra wins
If your prayer is granted wouldn't that be cheating?
@@hairtoss7975do the olympics have rules against divine intervention?
@@hairtoss7975 maybe yes
@@lonesome3958 Not religious lol just a figment of speech
@@lonesome3958 If God helps anyone win that would be unfair, wouldn't it? Praying for good health and avoiding injury would be fine but praying to win is just not right unless you consider your opponents to be demons that you need God's help to defeat.
so many of my predictions are off now 😭
We’re still in shock 🤯
TOBY IS SO CUTIE！！
can they all see the route at same time ? or do they all go in blind ? Seems like if u can watch people before it would help
I mostly agree with your words. Except that to me Ondra showed superior technique and smoothness. My opinion
When is the hamish interview 😢😊.
Sadly we didn’t manage to get one beforehand 😭 Hopefully we’ll get one following on from the Olympics. Understandably his schedule within the lead-up was rather busy!
Where can I watch the climbing I can't find it anywhere on BBC iplayer
@@TheCuriousHobbit Discovery +. You can subscribe for £3.99 then cancel at the end of the month.
@ukclimbingofficial thanks, I checked it out and it says 3.99 for the remainder of 2024 which sucks but nm. Thanks anyways
@@TheCuriousHobbit here’s what the offer says: ‘Offer on Standard tier until 11.08.2024 via selected subscription providers. £3.99/month until the end of 2024 and then automatically renews at £6.99/month from 2025 unless cancelled prior to renewal.’ That last bit is key. Means you can cancel at any time. I’ve already cancelled mine!
Free replay available somewhere ??
im also looking for one! cant find one for this or the womens anywhere. bbc only broadcasted the mens bouldering semis. annoying!
We’ve signed up to Discovery+ for £3.99 - that seems like the best/cheapest/easiest way to get access
@@ukclimbingofficialCan you watch replays on discovery+ or is it just live?
I did that...but no replays of climbing
The scoring system is broken. With Sorato coming out already qualified for the combined, without having done any combined climbing whatsoever, proves their system is borked. They set the boulders far too stiff and rewarded only one style. And yes, Sorato was awesome, but he excels at that style. Setting needs to reinvent itself. Still, I'm pleased overall with the finishing 8, even if it absolutely sucks (and is not a good reflection on setting) to have Megos out.
I think the scoring system works well, especially as climbing is a fairly new event in the olympics and needs to remain somewhat accessible for the general audience. I think its unfair to complain about Sorato being so good, but it could also be the same dilemma with Janja. Its the olympics and as we're seeing absolute focus is necessary to even attempt reaching the podium, theres no room for error. I was suprised that tomoa and megos fell so early but thats how it goes. Still an interesting competitions regardless and I am unfamiliar with alot of the younger talent. Rooting for Adam Ondra!
I don't think you can say they set the boulders to one style that benefitted Sorato when he only topped 2 out of the 4. If it suited him so well, he should've sent all 4.
I think by this point people just look for things to complain about. Scoring is fine, setting is fine. It was difficult but it is Olympics, it has to be special and not another world champ. As mentioned Sorato topped only 2/4 just shows again that people complain without paying attention. Megos slipped where it was slippery, true, but others didn't. I'm happy for Alberto, dude got too much undeserved hate for circumstances he had no control over. I doubt he will make it to the podium but still great to see him in the finals.
ONDRA!!!
sucks for tomoa, but also skill issue
I just want to watch without listening to this kind of commentator
@@Kobrakameraid maybe subscribe to the broadcast then? 🤷♂️
The route setting is rubbish it always looks the same way to boulder like too. It's like climbing balloons
LOL