I couldn’t replace my drill press with this only because I use it for much more than car audio, but for every application you showed this tool is perfect!
Hey Mark I'm an electrician and I've been trying to drill 90° holes to match things up for 20 years now and while I've gotten pretty good at it this tool is it going to be a game changer. Thanks for the tip 👍 and all the other ones. I just built a custom rear console enclosure for a JL10w6 v2 d4 for my 2015 f250 King ranch crew cab) great channel I just wish that you were in the Denver area so I could come pick your brain in person. Keep up the good work!
In addition to this tool, doing it one hole at a time helps also. Using the amp as an example, setting it there and marking all four holes at once can introduce error. It might shift a little. But if you mark one hole, drill, insert, screw down, then next hole, so on and so on you can get a much better tolerance.
Once you factor in time, material cost, the fact that you would need to own a ton of drill bits to make each hole size... and then still not have as nice of an end result, it probably makes much more sense to just buy it. But good for you if you want to make it!
This is a great tool, but like any tool, it has certain limitations. Holding by hand is dicey. The average cordless drill is long enough and heavy enough to easily rock the V-Drill guide when starting a hole. The V-Drill guide also has fairly slick surfaces, so it can slide slightly as you start the hole. With all that in mind, it's best to clamp the tool in place before drilling, to ensure that the bit stays both centered and aligned. I haven't yet tried using mine to drill corners (I have no need for that) or round stock (I rarely have need for that), but I'm sure the same rule will apply - clamp it down to ensure stability. Fortunately, the guide lines etched into the tool make it easy to line up with your measured marks, even without using the drill bit to align it.
I have used this thing quite a bit in the most recent build log videos and have been getting a bunch of questions about it, so I decided to make a video! Glad you enjoyed it!
5 лет назад+1
A great tool to add to your toolbox. It's versatile too. Got to get myself one. 😋
Thanks a lot for this. I watched the previous threaded insert video, then got right to drilling. The holes ended up being misaligned. It was very difficult to fix and ended up looking quite ugly.
New to car audio and this however it sounds great going to be adding either 2 12 or 2 15s in my 2007 H3 Hummer and doing it myself kinda a project for me researching to see what is right and best way very informative with everything I've learned from you so far thanks
This jig works really well for the specific hole sizes it offers on flat workpieces. It's very convenient as well. For angled drilling, you may also want to pick up a drill guide from Milescraft or Rockler. The benefit of these is that you can use any size drill bit, and you can angle them. Yes, they are more expensive, but if you do projects other than car audio then they come in handy.
I think having both is essential. There are times where clamping the workpiece can hinder drilling holes too. There are also other drilling jigs available for cabinet making, tube drilling etc that make drilling easier and not so complex in most applications. I do prefer metal/wood jigs over the plastic jigs, as the plastic jigs seems to have a very short life span.
Before I used threaded inserts, I was always a nut and bolt user , put equipment I wanted to mount in place, marked with sharpie. Then drill small pilot hole, and slowly work my way up where my bolt Barely fits. Then I have the bolt head on the opposite side of where I was mounting equipment and then put nut and lock washer on front surface. Could be troublesome if it’s difficult to get to the other side of what you are mounting to hold bolt head while tightening but I planned accordingly, and I always felt it was extremely secure.
That's a really handy little guide! There's a time and place for a drill press, but little portable jigs like that can make or break a project, especially if you need to change something up that's already assembled or installed, or if you need to line up holes on a frame, or through multiple spaced layers of steel somewhere deep inside the car. :D We have to remember that the kinds of projects we undertake are more along the lines of machining with wood, rather than general carpentry. That's in no way intended to knock carpenters; we build a decent box in the same amount of time it takes an equally skilled carpenter to frame a decent house. Two unique skillsets built around the same material Brethren in Compressed Cellulose! :D
That seems like a cool little tool I'd like to check it out There are certain projects that really do have to be right on the money and if they don't lineup become a major headache
hey ! I use to drill with a wolfcraft guide wich is very usefull ! perhaps because i'm on electricity but this tool is very little and easy to manipulate ! good vidéo !
@caf. Is it better to drill all the way through the 3/4 material or just the length of insert. Reason iam asking because I had 2 or three inserts loosen on me even after setting them with glue. It also could of been from like u said not drilling level. Doing a new box build and trying to prevent again lol.
I'm making a HT sub, so its got to look good as it will be in my lounge. I can't drill straight to save my life, so I was looking for something to help me. I looked at these , its good but looks a little cumbersome to use. You need one hand to steady and the other hand drill, if your drills moves off center the whole thing will probably move - good if you can clamp it down, but that decreases ease of us. I then found a mobile drill press on amazon - Milescraft 1318. Its much larger - but I think it assists drilling more easily.
Seems like a cool tool but honestly I would just drill a pilot hole to make sure its where i needed it to be instead of starting with a large drill bit so it doesnt walk when your drilling but it is a cool tool
Even if you drill with a small drill bit it can still happen at an angle which leads to the insert walking which is the main problem. This tool solves that
Need help!! So I have a Rockford T-2500 with 3800 watt rms, and have it pushing 2 Sundown X 10” in a custom box, I have a second kinetik battery added, I’ve done the Big 3 upgrade, I have a capacitor, all 0 gauge wire, but the amp still asks for more power and was looking into getting an alternator but do not know of a reliable website I can order from where I know the alternator will be good. If someone could please just let me know what is a good place to get the alternator from and around how many amps I should get, I would really appreciate it.
I always find it curious and could never figure out how to do perfect 90 degree holes. I 've seen people do it or seem to get pretty close. Then again most of those projects are on such a larger scale that being off a bit isn't as detrimental if at all, like on these smaller more intricate projects (which tend to be everything I personally get into solo lol) I need one of these.
There is absolutely no replacement for a drill press. However, as you mentioned, some work pieces do not fit in a press. In those situations a drill guide is nice to have. Also, a drill press cannot get into tight places. The portability of a drill guide wins in that aspect. Both tools are must-have items for me. It's like choosing between a cordless drill/driver or a screwdriver. I need both.
Please do an in-depth video on removing engine noise from speakers, I've tried moving power wire away from rca, grounding using the head unit to no satisfying avail
@@donavincaballero5976 running an amp for everything, the noise comes from the mids. The subs have their own amp snd the mids and highs also have their own
One of my cordless drills has a centering bubble on the backside of the motor casing and as long as my work surface is clean, it usually does a pretty good job of being perpendicular to gravity. Although that jig for the drill bit would improve my accuracy.
The drill pulls the bit to the left, or the direction the drill bit is spinning, drill half the hole, turn the drill 180 degrees and finish drilling the hole. This will stop your holes from wondering off your marks.
You're missing the point. Even if the drill lands perfectly on the mark it's the angle that forces the threaded insert off center. Thus the use for this tool.
The Proxxon drill press head can be swung out from the base, greatly increasing its ability to maneuver. I have one of those hand held guides (different brand) but have never had to use it. a drill press because of its flat base is preferable when possible in my view..
Looks like a great tool to have in your Arsenal. But if you do not have one of these you can always drill and tap or drill or use an insert in the first hole. Mount your hardware ie amp and then continue to drill the rest of the holes with your amp or speaker in place.
Drill press can be just as off as doing it without the guide. The bit can wobble due to a bad head, misaligned when installed, table is angled etc. The guide seem to also be faster since you don’t have to move the board to be under the bit.
I have a question and i need help.. I have a GAS COMPETITION 3500.1D amplifier 1x3500W RMS @1ohm 1x2500W RMS @2ohm 1x1800W RMS @4ohm I have 2 GAS PRO GPX1224 dual 3" voicecoils 4ohm each 1000W RMS - 2000W MAX. If i run each one separately i only have one chois and that is to run it in 2ohm.. wich needs 1000W x 2ohm = 2000W and the square root of that is 44.72V that i need to run them to get the max RMS without damagin them.. HERE comes my question... WHEN YOU PARARELL THEM.. TO EATHER 1ohm OR 4ohm... How should i calculate to get the max RMS out of them..? do i just calculate for one as following? 1000W x 1ohm = 1000 and the square root of that is 31.62V 1000W x 4ohm = 4000 and the square root of that is 63.24V OR... should i calculate it like this to get the max RMS out of them since it is 2 speakers on the same output.. 2000W x 1ohm = 2000 and the square root of that is 44.72V 2000W x 4ohm = 8000 and the square root of that is 89.44V I really need help guys.. another strange thing is my amp is 3500W RMS in 1ohm.. and 2500W RMS in 2ohm.. and 1800W RMS in 4ohm.. BUT.. i don't get it together.. 3500W RMS x 1ohm = 3500 the square root of that is 59.16V 2500W RMS x 2ohm = 5000 the square root of that is 70.71V 1800W RMS x 4ohm = 7200 the square root of that is 84.85V BUT.. when i ran an 50hz tone in 0DB and turned the knob full.. i measured 94.51V.. 94.51 x 94.51 = 8932W.. I really need help cause i don't want to ruin my speakers in any way.. the sellers of GAS measures the DB togo up to 149DB with those 2 subwoofers in the box i have.. But i don't get close to that i get around 125/130DB.. could be good to also tell you guys that i have 50mm OFC power cable both for power/ground.. i have a 75ah battery in the car to make it start etc.. and an extra 75ah battery both on 650CCA and also a 1 farad condensator.. i really think i should be able to get that 149DB.. I WOULD REALLY BE GREATFUL IF SOMEONE COULD HELP ME OUT :D.
I would parallel everything to a 1ohm nominal load, then slowly raise the gain on the amp to the voltage you need to meet the 2000 watts. Or find a nice used o-scope.
@@BrandinDanesi so when you parallel you double the gain? they are 1000W RMS each when separate, but if i parallel i should have the output gain too 2000W RMS?
@@marcushogberg8998 each sub has 1000rms, so two would be 2000. Four would be 4000. For your set up you could have a final ohm load of 1 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm , and each of those would still have 2000rms rating. Your amp is rated 1800 @ 4 ohm, and over 3000 @ 1 ohm. I would wire to 1 ohm since you will get the full 2000 watts after adjusting your gain setting. As far as 149 db vs what you are getting it would have to be the same configuration as they had, car, seats, mic location, spl meter, head unit, box placement... after messing about you may be over 150, or never get over 145.
@@BrandinDanesi Thanks, yea i figured i would need to wire them down to 1ohm load if i had to double my gain, im pretty much understanding it all, BUT i did not know if i had to double the gain, and i did not want to "experiment" with my subs since they were 250$ each and i don't have the money to buy new ones right now. So Im really happy you replied with those explaining comments, really helped me out :D
I have a version made by milescraft, I don't like it. I need three hands to hold everything and drill at the same time. Clamping the workpiece helps, but it's still a pain in the rear. A quality drill press is on my wishlist. That small drill press you have is a waste of space.
The drill press is the way to go when feasible. Use a drill guide when the drill press isn’t able to be used or is impractical. Trying to use a drill guide on a small tweeter ring or using a drill press on a 4’ x 4’ piece of mdf isn’t any fun.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
25 bucks isnt bad considering the price of a drill press and this thing is portable. Thanks for the info
I have a drill press and a cordless I'm still buying one for my next build as well as some nifty little inserts!
Your videos just keep getting better!!!
Drill guide is a life saver!!!! I just flawlessly mounted my subwoofer using that tool! Thanks for the heads up.
Those transfer punches....getting them. Slick little tools.
Mark I have a drill press but that V drill guide will be a great help in aligning your holes perfectly perpendicular.
I couldn’t replace my drill press with this only because I use it for much more than car audio, but for every application you showed this tool is perfect!
Hey Mark I'm an electrician and I've been trying to drill 90° holes to match things up for 20 years now and while I've gotten pretty good at it this tool is it going to be a game changer. Thanks for the tip 👍 and all the other ones. I just built a custom rear console enclosure for a JL10w6 v2 d4 for my 2015 f250 King ranch crew cab) great channel I just wish that you were in the Denver area so I could come pick your brain in person. Keep up the good work!
In addition to this tool, doing it one hole at a time helps also. Using the amp as an example, setting it there and marking all four holes at once can introduce error. It might shift a little. But if you mark one hole, drill, insert, screw down, then next hole, so on and so on you can get a much better tolerance.
Precision is GOLD.
as a machinist the v guide is a great tool for bench work
i saw lots of wood worker channel build a 90 degree drill guide ~ so i guess it kind of a must have
Awesome video. I feel both tools have a place. Sometimes a drill press just can't be replaced. But it does have it's limitations.
V-Drill Guide would be nice. I'd make my own drill block with a drill press.
Once you factor in time, material cost, the fact that you would need to own a ton of drill bits to make each hole size... and then still not have as nice of an end result, it probably makes much more sense to just buy it. But good for you if you want to make it!
This is a great tool, but like any tool, it has certain limitations.
Holding by hand is dicey. The average cordless drill is long enough and heavy enough to easily rock the V-Drill guide when starting a hole. The V-Drill guide also has fairly slick surfaces, so it can slide slightly as you start the hole. With all that in mind, it's best to clamp the tool in place before drilling, to ensure that the bit stays both centered and aligned.
I haven't yet tried using mine to drill corners (I have no need for that) or round stock (I rarely have need for that), but I'm sure the same rule will apply - clamp it down to ensure stability.
Fortunately, the guide lines etched into the tool make it easy to line up with your measured marks, even without using the drill bit to align it.
Very cool. I love these videos showing off tools and other install items that I never knew existed.
I have used this thing quite a bit in the most recent build log videos and have been getting a bunch of questions about it, so I decided to make a video! Glad you enjoyed it!
A great tool to add to your toolbox. It's versatile too. Got to get myself one. 😋
I think I would still use a small bit to start, cool tool thanks for the link!
Thanks a lot for this. I watched the previous threaded insert video, then got right to drilling. The holes ended up being misaligned. It was very difficult to fix and ended up looking quite ugly.
Went to the link in the video and purchased this killer tool!! Thank you for sharing.
depends on application, if the press can be use then use it. if time or fitting under a press is an issue then v-guide. Good Info Mark.
New to car audio and this however it sounds great going to be adding either 2 12 or 2 15s in my 2007 H3 Hummer and doing it myself kinda a project for me researching to see what is right and best way very informative with everything I've learned from you so far thanks
Super cool tool. Learn so much from you. Thank!!
I've heard of Big Gator Tools V drill guide, it was recommended by another RUclipsr, i love the quality and its pretty cheap.
This jig works really well for the specific hole sizes it offers on flat workpieces. It's very convenient as well. For angled drilling, you may also want to pick up a drill guide from Milescraft or Rockler. The benefit of these is that you can use any size drill bit, and you can angle them. Yes, they are more expensive, but if you do projects other than car audio then they come in handy.
I think having both is essential. There are times where clamping the workpiece can hinder drilling holes too. There are also other drilling jigs available for cabinet making, tube drilling etc that make drilling easier and not so complex in most applications. I do prefer metal/wood jigs over the plastic jigs, as the plastic jigs seems to have a very short life span.
Before I used threaded inserts, I was always a nut and bolt user , put equipment I wanted to mount in place, marked with sharpie. Then drill small pilot hole, and slowly work my way up where my bolt Barely fits. Then I have the bolt head on the opposite side of where I was mounting equipment and then put nut and lock washer on front surface. Could be troublesome if it’s difficult to get to the other side of what you are mounting to hold bolt head while tightening but I planned accordingly, and I always felt it was extremely secure.
That's a really handy little guide! There's a time and place for a drill press, but little portable jigs like that can make or break a project, especially if you need to change something up that's already assembled or installed, or if you need to line up holes on a frame, or through multiple spaced layers of steel somewhere deep inside the car. :D
We have to remember that the kinds of projects we undertake are more along the lines of machining with wood, rather than general carpentry. That's in no way intended to knock carpenters; we build a decent box in the same amount of time it takes an equally skilled carpenter to frame a decent house. Two unique skillsets built around the same material Brethren in Compressed Cellulose! :D
That seems like a cool little tool I'd like to check it out There are certain projects that really do have to be right on the money and if they don't lineup become a major headache
Just ran into this issue mounting a sub. Will be following your link and picking one of these up.
I've done it before too, its a bummer!
hey ! I use to drill with a wolfcraft guide wich is very usefull ! perhaps because i'm on electricity but this tool is very little and easy to manipulate ! good vidéo !
@caf what type of threaded inserts do you recommend as far as material? Brass's? Stainless steel? Zinc etc....
would you recommend any good threaded inserts for fiberglass?
@caf. Is it better to drill all the way through the 3/4 material or just the length of insert. Reason iam asking because I had 2 or three inserts loosen on me even after setting them with glue. It also could of been from like u said not drilling level. Doing a new box build and trying to prevent again lol.
Love the informative videos u put up. Always good to hear others opinions on tools and equipment. Better to be informed than not informed. Lol
I'm making a HT sub, so its got to look good as it will be in my lounge. I can't drill straight to save my life, so I was looking for something to help me. I looked at these , its good but looks a little cumbersome to use. You need one hand to steady and the other hand drill, if your drills moves off center the whole thing will probably move - good if you can clamp it down, but that decreases ease of us. I then found a mobile drill press on amazon - Milescraft 1318. Its much larger - but I think it assists drilling more easily.
Dammit Mark, stop making me spend money! Seriously though, that's a great tool. :-)
Great info. Love your videos.
What size of threaded inserts & screws are best for mounting 12" sub woofer DB SA-302D2 on the speaker box ?
Measure.
Seems like a cool tool but honestly I would just drill a pilot hole to make sure its where i needed it to be instead of starting with a large drill bit so it doesnt walk when your drilling but it is a cool tool
Even if you drill with a small drill bit it can still happen at an angle which leads to the insert walking which is the main problem. This tool solves that
Need help!!
So I have a Rockford T-2500 with 3800 watt rms, and have it pushing 2 Sundown X 10” in a custom box, I have a second kinetik battery added, I’ve done the Big 3 upgrade, I have a capacitor, all 0 gauge wire, but the amp still asks for more power and was looking into getting an alternator but do not know of a reliable website I can order from where I know the alternator will be good. If someone could please just let me know what is a good place to get the alternator from and around how many amps I should get, I would really appreciate it.
I always find it curious and could never figure out how to do perfect 90 degree holes. I 've seen people do it or seem to get pretty close. Then again most of those projects are on such a larger scale that being off a bit isn't as detrimental if at all, like on these smaller more intricate projects (which tend to be everything I personally get into solo lol) I need one of these.
definitely need to get myself one of those!!! :)
There is absolutely no replacement for a drill press. However, as you mentioned, some work pieces do not fit in a press. In those situations a drill guide is nice to have. Also, a drill press cannot get into tight places. The portability of a drill guide wins in that aspect. Both tools are must-have items for me. It's like choosing between a cordless drill/driver or a screwdriver. I need both.
Please do an in-depth video on removing engine noise from speakers, I've tried moving power wire away from rca, grounding using the head unit to no satisfying avail
uStacks where is the engine noise sounding from? The regular door speakers? Or subs? Or are u running an amp for mids and highs?
@@donavincaballero5976 running an amp for everything, the noise comes from the mids. The subs have their own amp snd the mids and highs also have their own
uStacks lower the gain on the amp for ur mids and it shud help
Could you do a video on how you install speaker wire through molex?
One of my cordless drills has a centering bubble on the backside of the motor casing and as long as my work surface is clean, it usually does a pretty good job of being perpendicular to gravity. Although that jig for the drill bit would improve my accuracy.
You got your punches right.....we knew you could do it
Excellent...Amazing...Revolutionary...
I likey....
The drill pulls the bit to the left, or the direction the drill bit is spinning, drill half the hole, turn the drill 180 degrees and finish drilling the hole. This will stop your holes from wondering off your marks.
You're missing the point. Even if the drill lands perfectly on the mark it's the angle that forces the threaded insert off center. Thus the use for this tool.
The Proxxon drill press head can be swung out from the base, greatly increasing its ability to maneuver. I have one of those hand held guides (different brand) but have never had to use it. a drill press because of its flat base is preferable when possible in my view..
Very cool! Thanks
Looks like a great tool to have in your Arsenal. But if you do not have one of these you can always drill and tap or drill or use an insert in the first hole. Mount your hardware ie amp and then continue to drill the rest of the holes with your amp or speaker in place.
That's a bad idea that would lead to damaging the mounting holes on the device.
Hey mark I need that template made for my 2019 Jeep can u help with that
A very handy tool indeed but the drill press still has its place.
U go boI I need a design four a box I need a t-line box 4 a power acoustic gothic gw3-12 do u got one mark???
My drill has a level window. Bubble in the center and I have a perfect 90 degree hole drilled.
That’s the only thing I wish my Milwaukee drill had
But what if the table you are working in is not level? Then it drills at an angle right?
Is there a video with tips on getting through a car firewall?
Studpum look for a rubber grommet
Drill press can be just as off as doing it without the guide. The bit can wobble due to a bad head, misaligned when installed, table is angled etc.
The guide seem to also be faster since you don’t have to move the board to be under the bit.
I have a question and i need help..
I have a GAS COMPETITION 3500.1D amplifier
1x3500W RMS @1ohm
1x2500W RMS @2ohm
1x1800W RMS @4ohm
I have 2 GAS PRO GPX1224 dual 3" voicecoils 4ohm each
1000W RMS - 2000W MAX.
If i run each one separately i only have one chois and that is to run it in 2ohm..
wich needs 1000W x 2ohm = 2000W and the square root of that is 44.72V that i need to run them to get the max RMS without damagin them..
HERE comes my question...
WHEN YOU PARARELL THEM.. TO EATHER 1ohm OR 4ohm...
How should i calculate to get the max RMS out of them..?
do i just calculate for one as following?
1000W x 1ohm = 1000 and the square root of that is 31.62V
1000W x 4ohm = 4000 and the square root of that is 63.24V
OR... should i calculate it like this to get the max RMS out of them since it is 2 speakers on the same output..
2000W x 1ohm = 2000 and the square root of that is 44.72V
2000W x 4ohm = 8000 and the square root of that is 89.44V
I really need help guys.. another strange thing is my amp is 3500W RMS in 1ohm.. and 2500W RMS in 2ohm.. and 1800W RMS in 4ohm..
BUT.. i don't get it together..
3500W RMS x 1ohm = 3500 the square root of that is 59.16V
2500W RMS x 2ohm = 5000 the square root of that is 70.71V
1800W RMS x 4ohm = 7200 the square root of that is 84.85V
BUT.. when i ran an 50hz tone in 0DB and turned the knob full.. i measured 94.51V..
94.51 x 94.51 = 8932W.. I really need help cause i don't want to ruin my speakers in any way.. the sellers of GAS measures the DB togo up to 149DB with those 2 subwoofers in the box i have..
But i don't get close to that i get around 125/130DB..
could be good to also tell you guys that i have 50mm OFC power cable both for power/ground.. i have a 75ah battery in the car to make it start etc.. and an extra 75ah battery both on 650CCA and also a 1 farad condensator..
i really think i should be able to get that 149DB..
I WOULD REALLY BE GREATFUL IF SOMEONE COULD HELP ME OUT :D.
I would parallel everything to a 1ohm nominal load, then slowly raise the gain on the amp to the voltage you need to meet the 2000 watts. Or find a nice used o-scope.
@@BrandinDanesi so when you parallel you double the gain? they are 1000W RMS each when separate, but if i parallel i should have the output gain too 2000W RMS?
@@marcushogberg8998 each sub has 1000rms, so two would be 2000. Four would be 4000. For your set up you could have a final ohm load of 1 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm , and each of those would still have 2000rms rating. Your amp is rated 1800 @ 4 ohm, and over 3000 @ 1 ohm. I would wire to 1 ohm since you will get the full 2000 watts after adjusting your gain setting.
As far as 149 db vs what you are getting it would have to be the same configuration as they had, car, seats, mic location, spl meter, head unit, box placement... after messing about you may be over 150, or never get over 145.
@@BrandinDanesi Thanks, yea i figured i would need to wire them down to 1ohm load if i had to double my gain, im pretty much understanding it all, BUT i did not know if i had to double the gain, and i did not want to "experiment" with my subs since they were 250$ each and i don't have the money to buy new ones right now. So Im really happy you replied with those explaining comments, really helped me out :D
I have a version made by milescraft, I don't like it. I need three hands to hold everything and drill at the same time. Clamping the workpiece helps, but it's still a pain in the rear. A quality drill press is on my wishlist. That small drill press you have is a waste of space.
I will simply say nice!
Shit Yes! It looks worth the money, being it is so portable. I hope they come in other sizes too?...
should clamp it first so it doesn't move. cool tool tho. 👍
Interesting tool. A lot cheaper than a drill press.
👍🏻
The drill bit can still walk unless you clamp the guide to the work.
Welp, now I know where I went wrong
The drill press is the way to go when feasible. Use a drill guide when the drill press isn’t able to be used or is impractical.
Trying to use a drill guide on a small tweeter ring or using a drill press on a 4’ x 4’ piece of mdf isn’t any fun.
First
Im early.
I use a drill press for most of my applications. Guaranteed a straight hole every time.
no you dont
@@AlanRaybasshead ok?