Thanks for all your videos! You were integral in me getting my new to me mouse house (had mice nest in exhaust header) 1985 Mercruiser 2.5 rebuilt, running and back on the water. If you ever come to Bham, beers on me. This was the closest I could find to reinstalling the dipstick tube as it magically appears around 3:20 in. I did not measure how far it was sticking out prior to disassembly but reinstalled it to the paint line. I measured how deep it is with a piece of wire and it is 1/4" from the bottom of the oil pan. I just did my first oil change with a new Wix 50169 filter and a gallon of Rotella from a sealed bottle which according to the manual is the oil capacity with a new filter. The dipstick shows a half quart low. Now I do drain from the oil pan plug rather than pumping and let it drain over night. I did verify the correct dipstick is installed and have no reason to believe the tube has been replaced. Should I just add the half quart?
Turns out a Wix 50169 is not a short filter like the original Mercury Quicksilver 35-866340Q03 is. It's a inch taller so I guess that should account for some of the difference.
Thank you for this excellent and super helpful video. I especially appreciated your technique of covering the spark plug hole, then rotating the crank and listening for the flow of air out of the piston, which can only happen when both valves are closed and not moving, and which is the needed valve state for firing. And this technique can be performed without having to remove the lifter cover. When I was performing my static timing procedure, however, I removed the lifter cover, and watched for movement of the rods associated with cylinder no. 1, as the crank was moved through TDC. If no rod movement was observed, then I concluded that this was the TDC for cylinder no. 1 firing position, and this could also be confirmed by observing movement for the rods of cylinder no. 4. While you have to remove the lifter cover, you don't have to remove the spark plug. I was wondering what your opinion of this alternate approach is. Thanks!
The method you describe has been used by seasoned mechanics for ages. I’ve been using it for 40 years. This video is a variation of the method. ruclips.net/video/1A7mteNPCxc/видео.htmlsi=j0Ns-bCYqmLsMhAO
Thank You for the many great videos! I am a subscriber and new (used) boat owner and have found your info on Mercruiser 3.0 very valuable. Just replaced my long block, and installed the distributor. Runs fairly well and I am now working on the fine tuning. In this video you mention the #1 position on the distributor as the right corner of the plug base. Is it important that that be the #1 position? I thought that the number 1# position was relative and could be any of the posts as long as the plug wires were then attached in the correct 1342 firing order to the corresponding spark plug while at TDC. Just want to get all of the performance out of it if a reset of the distributor is necessary. Keep the great videos coming.
The #1 distributor post position can be any of the four posts as long as you install the plug wires going clockwise in the firing order. However the factory service manual shows the right corner as number 1 so I stick with that since any future mechanic will expect it to be there also.
Same question that I asked on another video of yours. Trying to get the Delco number of the two pin connector or ultimately the number of the module receptacle so that I may connect to my replacement Petronix distributor. Thanks. Rick.
To replace the parts on the plate the distributor gear has to be removed and the shaft pulled out. I would just clean up the part and keep using it as is unless the parts don’t work anymore.
holy crap this video just save me so much headache.... I stalled out and wouldnt start again turns out I just accidentally turn the distributor cap when removing oil filter
Is this essential for getting engine started. Took everthing from the head and on to replace all gaskets and clean engine. Engine cranks but wont start. I have spark and fuel is comming out of carburator. Could this be why my engine wont start? Since i didnt do it
If you did not take distributor out or loosen it then it should start. This ignition is very simple. Diagnose ignition first then worry about fuel. Remove a spark plug and lay it on the engine (not near gasoline fumes) and crank engine. If no spark you’ve probably got an electrical problem not getting power to the ignition coil.
@moccasinmarine I went back and tried that just now. There's definitely a spark coming out of the spark. Plus, there was also a compression mist that came out of the spark plug hole, and i can see gas coming out of the carburator. Im stuck
This is a video about static timing, not connecting spark plug wires or timing with a timing light. I cover these topics in other videos. I did point out cylinder #1 and explain how to find TDC on #1 firing stroke which is the most important requirement for timing a distributor.
There is no need to get into that much detail. It’s automatic that the triggers line up when the rotor points at the distributor cap tower. If they don’t you’ll have a distributor phasing problem. But thanks for the tip.
I don’t know a lot about it but can you tel me please where is the oil pump is or how to do it and a video I will really appreciate you sir , Hi sir thanks for texting me back , I have a 3.0 mercury 4 cylinders stingray 190RS but I forgot how the spark plugs cables order,?
How can alignment the cylinder number one up , because the engine is is my boat and I really don’t know how to turn with the engine in the boat, can you help me out please
www.mercruiser-shop.at/data/datenblatt_0000025_1.pdf This manual contains spark plug wire routing. The oil pump is inside the engine under the distributor.
Thanks for all your videos! You were integral in me getting my new to me mouse house (had mice nest in exhaust header) 1985 Mercruiser 2.5 rebuilt, running and back on the water. If you ever come to Bham, beers on me. This was the closest I could find to reinstalling the dipstick tube as it magically appears around 3:20 in. I did not measure how far it was sticking out prior to disassembly but reinstalled it to the paint line. I measured how deep it is with a piece of wire and it is 1/4" from the bottom of the oil pan. I just did my first oil change with a new Wix 50169 filter and a gallon of Rotella from a sealed bottle which according to the manual is the oil capacity with a new filter. The dipstick shows a half quart low. Now I do drain from the oil pan plug rather than pumping and let it drain over night. I did verify the correct dipstick is installed and have no reason to believe the tube has been replaced. Should I just add the half quart?
Turns out a Wix 50169 is not a short filter like the original Mercury Quicksilver 35-866340Q03 is. It's a inch taller so I guess that should account for some of the difference.
Hi! I just sent you an email! Can’t wait to hear back from you ASAP! Thank you! Love the channel and the videos YOU THE MAN!!
Thank you for this excellent and super helpful video. I especially appreciated your technique of covering the spark plug hole, then rotating the crank and listening for the flow of air out of the piston, which can only happen when both valves are closed and not moving, and which is the needed valve state for firing. And this technique can be performed without having to remove the lifter cover. When I was performing my static timing procedure, however, I removed the lifter cover, and watched for movement of the rods associated with cylinder no. 1, as the crank was moved through TDC. If no rod movement was observed, then I concluded that this was the TDC for cylinder no. 1 firing position, and this could also be confirmed by observing movement for the rods of cylinder no. 4. While you have to remove the lifter cover, you don't have to remove the spark plug. I was wondering what your opinion of this alternate approach is. Thanks!
The method you describe has been used by seasoned mechanics for ages. I’ve been using it for 40 years. This video is a variation of the method.
ruclips.net/video/1A7mteNPCxc/видео.htmlsi=j0Ns-bCYqmLsMhAO
Thank You for the many great videos! I am a subscriber and new (used) boat owner and have found your info on Mercruiser 3.0 very valuable. Just replaced my long block, and installed the distributor. Runs fairly well and I am now working on the fine tuning. In this video you mention the #1 position on the distributor as the right corner of the plug base. Is it important that that be the #1 position? I thought that the number 1# position was relative and could be any of the posts as long as the plug wires were then attached in the correct 1342 firing order to the corresponding spark plug while at TDC. Just want to get all of the performance out of it if a reset of the distributor is necessary. Keep the great videos coming.
The #1 distributor post position can be any of the four posts as long as you install the plug wires going clockwise in the firing order. However the factory service manual shows the right corner as number 1 so I stick with that since any future mechanic will expect it to be there also.
Same question that I asked on another video of yours. Trying to get the Delco number of the two pin connector or ultimately the number of the module receptacle so that I may connect to my replacement Petronix distributor. Thanks. Rick.
I posted an answer to your other question.
How do u rotate the oil pump
Flat blade screwdriver
I have this same distributor, can i replace the parts ontop of the plate or do i have to change out the whole distributor?
Why do you want to replace anything? You don’t say what’s wrong with it?
@@moccasinmarine well nothing is wrong with it, just rusty and dirty. My first boat, I'm giving her a tune up
To replace the parts on the plate the distributor gear has to be removed and the shaft pulled out. I would just clean up the part and keep using it as is unless the parts don’t work anymore.
holy crap this video just save me so much headache.... I stalled out and wouldnt start again turns out I just accidentally turn the distributor cap when removing oil filter
Is this essential for getting engine started. Took everthing from the head and on to replace all gaskets and clean engine. Engine cranks but wont start. I have spark and fuel is comming out of carburator. Could this be why my engine wont start? Since i didnt do it
Also, to add, i never took the distributer out, but i did rotat the crank shaftm does that even matter for starting the engine
If you did not take distributor out or loosen it then it should start. This ignition is very simple. Diagnose ignition first then worry about fuel. Remove a spark plug and lay it on the engine (not near gasoline fumes) and crank engine. If no spark you’ve probably got an electrical problem not getting power to the ignition coil.
@moccasinmarine I went back and tried that just now. There's definitely a spark coming out of the spark. Plus, there was also a compression mist that came out of the spark plug hole, and i can see gas coming out of the carburator. Im stuck
@@moccasinmarine the timing looks good too
Send me an email to gmefiguy@gmail.com
How’d you line up the slot in the oil pump inside the engine?
What’s your email address?
@@moccasinmarine Sorry sir, can’t give you that on this platform. I’d be happy too, but It’s a world-wide platform.
My email is all over this channel. How else can I interact with viewers. Then you email me at gmefiguy@gmail.com.
@@moccasinmarine email sent
Could you also please explain to me how you moved the oil pump slot??
Good video,
You should add the firing order and cylinder numbers to it though,
Thanks
This is a video about static timing, not connecting spark plug wires or timing with a timing light. I cover these topics in other videos. I did point out cylinder #1 and explain how to find TDC on #1 firing stroke which is the most important requirement for timing a distributor.
you should have mentioned the triggers being lined up too.
There is no need to get into that much detail. It’s automatic that the triggers line up when the rotor points at the distributor cap tower. If they don’t you’ll have a distributor phasing problem. But thanks for the tip.
Hi how you turn the oil pump ??
With a long flat blade screwdriver.
I don’t know a lot about it but can you tel me please where is the oil pump is or how to do it and a video I will really appreciate you sir , Hi sir thanks for texting me back , I have a 3.0 mercury 4 cylinders stingray 190RS but I forgot how the spark plugs cables order,?
How can alignment the cylinder number one up , because the engine is is my boat and I really don’t know how to turn with the engine in the boat, can you help me out please
www.mercruiser-shop.at/data/datenblatt_0000025_1.pdf
This manual contains spark plug wire routing. The oil pump is inside the engine under the distributor.
Put a socket on the alternator bolt and rotate the engine with the alternator pulley. Take the spark plugs out so that the engine rotates easier.