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Moccasin Marine LLC
Добавлен 22 фев 2013
Mechanical engineer, mechanic, and fuel injection expert on a quest to make marine engines less mysterious and costly. Please subscribe and hit the like button if you’d like to see more of my work!!
Although I have a full time job as a mechanical engineer I do freelance mechanic work as a second business focusing on marine engines. While I’ve rebuilt hundreds of engines (Porsche, BMW, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, AMC, Nissan, Toyota, etc.) I’ve been rebuilding marine engines for the last five years. For a quote gmefiguy@gmail.com.
I also design, manufacture, and sell parts that I create. See my parts and tools playlist here:
ruclips.net/p/PL6wJJenh5G97N_kRYiyA3Aip9mR3b8dXe&si=19GVN4JSDYl1Cjjt
Although I have a full time job as a mechanical engineer I do freelance mechanic work as a second business focusing on marine engines. While I’ve rebuilt hundreds of engines (Porsche, BMW, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, AMC, Nissan, Toyota, etc.) I’ve been rebuilding marine engines for the last five years. For a quote gmefiguy@gmail.com.
I also design, manufacture, and sell parts that I create. See my parts and tools playlist here:
ruclips.net/p/PL6wJJenh5G97N_kRYiyA3Aip9mR3b8dXe&si=19GVN4JSDYl1Cjjt
1a - Why Is a Melonized Gear Included?
In this video I discuss melonized distributor gears and why you need one on some ignition kits. Simply put melonized gears are the longest lasting distributor gear you can buy. GM uses them on all v8 engines after 1996. The v6 engines did not have melonized gears but I plan to use them anyway to provide a better product.
Просмотров: 550
Видео
4b - Best Way to Wire Delco EST Upgrade Kit into a TB V Harness
Просмотров 8503 месяца назад
In this video I’ve updated and improved the wiring changes to install a Delco EST Ignition Upgrade kit into a THUNDERBOLT V harness on a 5.7 Mercruiser engine. However this applies to any size engine with a TB V ignition system. This method is the easiest to do and faster.
12 - Sparkie The Eel - I’ll Be Checking TDC From Now On
Просмотров 3484 месяца назад
I was trying to set the timing on a fresh Mercruiser 4.3 rebuild with Delco EST upgrade when I struggled to get it to run smooth. After replacing the distributor, the ignition module, the plug wires, and the plugs I finally played with the timing and got it running but the timing marks were way off so I checked and found that the balancer mark for TDC was way off. I made a new mark, set the tim...
11 - Sparkie The Eel - Tips and Troubleshooting
Просмотров 5374 месяца назад
In this video I’m installing a Delco EST ignition system on a freshly built Mercruiser 4.3 engine. This is a pre-Vortec (before 1996) engine so I have to custom calculate the timing setting since the timing curve in the module is for a Vortec engine.
Volvo Penta GSI 5.0 to 5.7 Upgrade - Teardown
Просмотров 5465 месяцев назад
In this video I’m disassembling a Volvo Penta 5.0 GSI with the plan to swap in a 5.7.
Volvo Penta 5.7 - DIY Piston Install
Просмотров 2355 месяцев назад
In this video I show my DIY piston rod heater and how it allowed me to repair a machine shop mistake on the spot. It’s not economical to make this setup unless you build a lot of engines however.
Mercruiser 6.2 (1e) - Rebuilding the Cool Fuel Module
Просмотров 9355 месяцев назад
In the video I’m restoring the fuel injection cool fuel module on a Mercruiser 6.2 engine. The cool fuel module contains a fuel pump, a fuel to water heat exchanger, and a fuel pressure regulator all in one housing mounted low on the port side of the engine. Due to its location it often gets corroded and rusty, esp on saltwater boats. I’m doing what I can to save this module since you can’t buy...
MerCruiser 6.2 (1i) - How To Set TBI/MPI Timing
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.5 месяцев назад
In the video I am setting the timing on a fresh Mercruiser 6.2 rebuild. To adjust the timing you rotate the distributor counter clockwise to advance the timing (move blue line left) and clockwise to retard the timing. I had already adjusted the distributor before filming but it was way retarded when I started filming. It was retarded because my initial static distributor setting was too far cl...
Mercruiser 6.2 (1h) - How The MPI Electrical Works
Просмотров 7735 месяцев назад
In this video I discuss the electrical system of a Mercruiser 6.2 liter engine. While doing this video I needed to refer to the electrical wiring diagram to understand the ignition system. A link to the diagram is below:
Mercruiser 6.2 (1f) - Closed Cooling System Basics
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.5 месяцев назад
In this video I describe the rare closed cooling system on a Mercruiser 6.2 liter engine.
Mercruiser 6.2 (1g) - Groovy Dude
Просмотров 805 месяцев назад
In this video I show how to save a harmonic balancer with a groove where the seal rides. If you don’t repair the seal surface it will leak oil and good bye engine. Watch the video for details.
Volvo Penta 5.0 To 5.7 - How To
Просмотров 5145 месяцев назад
In this video I explain how I upgraded a 5.0 to a 5.7.
Failed Experiment - Where Are The Engines?
Просмотров 3905 месяцев назад
In this video I’m showing a 5.7 L Vortech V8 tear down that was intended to be a simple, refresh with new bearings and marine head gaskets, but the engine was worn out so it needs a complete rebuild. Now, I could just go buy another engine, but it took three months to find this one, so I don’t think I will find another one for reasons that I explain in the video. 
Volvo Penta 5.7 TBI - Valve Train Tips
Просмотров 3825 месяцев назад
In this video I am prepping a Vortec cylinder head with better valve springs and testing used valve lifters before sealing them inside the engine. I’m also using the best (in my opinion) valve adjustment process. It’s a little long but I want to make sure my viewers completely grasp how I recondition a used valve train.
Mercruiser 6.2 (1b) - Restoring Rusted Parts
Просмотров 535 месяцев назад
In this video, I’m using cleaning vinegar with about 6% acidity to remove rust on parts. It takes about three days of soaking to get rid of the rust. 
Mercruiser 6.2 (1a) - Let’s Build This Beast
Просмотров 3785 месяцев назад
Mercruiser 6.2 (1a) - Let’s Build This Beast
Volvo Penta 5.7 - First Time Start-Up
Просмотров 2995 месяцев назад
Volvo Penta 5.7 - First Time Start-Up
Volvo Penta 5.0 to 5.7 - Son of a Beach/ 🤬I Bought a Defective Engine
Просмотров 6605 месяцев назад
Volvo Penta 5.0 to 5.7 - Son of a Beach/ 🤬I Bought a Defective Engine
Volvo Penta 4.3 - Low Cost Recondition Pt. 1
Просмотров 1555 месяцев назад
Volvo Penta 4.3 - Low Cost Recondition Pt. 1
Volvo Penta Thermostat Replacement
Просмотров 3,3 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Volvo Penta Thermostat Replacement
Volvo Penta 5.0 To 5.7 GSI - Test Drive
Просмотров 7675 месяцев назад
Volvo Penta 5.0 To 5.7 GSI - Test Drive
Volvo Penta 5.7 GSI - Rest in Pieces
Просмотров 5448 месяцев назад
Volvo Penta 5.7 GSI - Rest in Pieces
Mercruiser 5.7 5a - Crank Too Tight But Fixed; Other Tips Too
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Mercruiser 5.7 5a - Crank Too Tight But Fixed; Other Tips Too
10 - Why You Must Use DELCO EST Marine Modules for Boats
Просмотров 79310 месяцев назад
10 - Why You Must Use DELCO EST Marine Modules for Boats
9 - More On My Delco EST Marine Modules
Просмотров 87210 месяцев назад
9 - More On My Delco EST Marine Modules
7 - Setting Dynamic Timing - SPARKIE THE EEL
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.Год назад
7 - Setting Dynamic Timing - SPARKIE THE EEL
im sorry but where did u learn what u r taking about , guys like u post videos and people watch them think u know what the hell your taking about because u dont, ing voltage is just that batt. voltage is the same with 1,2,3 or as many batt. u want, when modual is powerd up it drops because it energize the coil, thats way there is a purple wire on s side of startor for direct batt voltage to ing , look at your so called work station , rusty plugs, red batt cable to ground, i have been doing this tec shit for almost 50 yrs, just stop, 5.2k sub. i feel sorry 4 them
I cant find your marinized LS swap video. Did you make it yet?
Still working on it.
@@moccasinmarine that isnt selling your video claiming how easy the conversion is!!! can i ask why you havent done it yet? time/finances/complexity?
@@moccasinmarine i am between a straight up repower with a 350MAG or consider LS swap
I didn’t say I haven’t done it yet. I said I’m working on it. When you launch a new product you don’t just throw junk on the market that’s untested and not profitable to manufacture. An LS in factory configuration won’t fit in a boat. It’s easy for me but not for most people so I’m trying to make it easy for everyone as in buy my kit, bolt it on, drop it in, and go boating. That’s takes time to develop and do sea trials. I’ll have all this done by November in time to launch in December for winter repowering.
Hi! I just sent you an email! Can’t wait to hear back from you ASAP! Thank you! Love the channel and the videos YOU THE MAN!!
So, no need for winterizing the boat at all, correct?
No you still have to drain the exhaust manifolds as they are low points in the raw water side. Any low points in raw water side still have to be drained.
I love this and im going to continue to watch and learn as much as i can. I am rebuilding an 89 sea ray 180, it had a 4.3 merc in it. If i convert to an LS can i still run my aplha 1 as is?
I’m doing two conversions now. Videos released in about a month. You can run the Alpha one but you may have to change props or gear ratios.
Best video ever. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
What pins do I use to start 4.3 on bench
Do you have to put the jumper wire if you don’t have fuel injection?
Thanks for this and your other videos on the 3.0.
More to come!
Just did this in my 97 Blazer. Works perfect. Much obliged.
Is it possible, you could tell me where to connect the wire label as TACH in the front of the engine, mine has it but its not conected and my rpm is not working, just bought this boat, thanks
My question is new motor where do I set the pulley on the tab to start the timing process I’ve got this Same motor
By the nature of your question you don’t understand the difference between static and dynamic timing. I have videos on static timing elsewhere on my channel.
@@moccasinmarine I got my distributor set ready to fire on cylinder one and I have the notch on the pulley lined to tdc “0” I’ve got my timing light ready I’ve got my jumper wire set and the switch wired up my thing is do I adjust the distributor until that notch strikes the 2btdc on the tab or should I set the pulley on 2 btdc to start
@@moccasinmarine I also appreciate your help
Ok so you know more than you implied. With dynamic timing it doesn’t matter where the engine starts from. The timing light only triggers when the distributor fires the #1 cylinder. Loosen the distributor to where it rotates by hand but not to where it will turn on its own. Crank it up and let it idle around 600-800 rpm (doesn’t matter as long as it not over 1000 rpm) then use the timing light to watch the pulley notch light up under the timing tab. Depending on the year it could be 1 degree BTDC or 2 degrees ATDC (after TDC). Look for the timing setting on the flame arrestor sticker. If it won’t idle or fire up move the distributor around a little at a time until it fires up. Then start setting timing with the light. While you can rotate the distributor with it running with rubber gloves I recommend shutting down to rotate distributor. You can lose a finger, hand, or your life if you fall into engine after getting shocked. Once the timing marks line up to the correct timing shut down, tighten distributor, and check one last time. Timing to the exact number is important. Btw you start the engine and then connect the set timing tool. If it idles too slow speed it up with idle speed screw on carb. If the engine doesn’t slow down when set timing tool is connected to battery power then the timing tool is not making a connection to +12volts.
Wrong information 0 compression after that 😮😮😮
You have earlier heads that require adjustment. This video covers later model heads. The information is not wrong.
I am looking to put a small block in a boat is the block set up and the crank spaced the same
I have no idea what you’re asking me
Idk if you’ll see this but will the tachometer not work after this conversion if the gray and white on that connector not connected to anything? 4:04
Ignore this video. It is obsolete. The video below is currently the best way to wire the system. ruclips.net/video/YPNZbf4MWUo/видео.htmlsi=Q7_BnsqdWubq9o4E
I am using the Sierra Marine Sierra Marine AC Delco (18-5513) conversion kit for my 1990 4.3V6 Mercruiser ( which I purchased in Jan 24 before realising you did your own kit). The engine runs OK but I have a problem with the ignition timing not advancing when the engine rpm increases - i have an advanced timing light that shows both the rpm and the ignition advance timing degress and I am using the correct harness for running the engine but regardless of the rpm, the Ignttion timing stays where I set it at idle. I have now tried 2 different ECMs (original and a warranty replacement from Sierra) but the replacement made no difference. I note that the Sierra Marine AC Delco Distrubutor assembly does not actually use the AC Delco ECM - they use their own less expensive brand in the kit. I am now at a loss as to whether there is a bad batch of "sierra" ECMs out there or I am just doing something fundamnetally wrong but have been over and over the info many times over many months now. I havent actually put the boat on the water to try and see how it runs with only "base timing" but was wondering if people doing this conversion would even know the timing wasnt advancing - lack of power? (I do becuase I have the advanced timing gun!). Any advice would be most appreciated so that I dont miss another summer season of boating.
Mr. White, I have explained this as clearly and straight forward as I can. No other kit uses a GM module. The other kits are selling inferior modules. Most of them are truck modules that don’t work in a marine engine. I also got burned six times before I finally switched to GM modules exclusively. I stated this very clearly in the first video. You’ll need to switch to a GM module if you can find one.
Can I run this distributor with a carb and fire it some other way?
Not unless you want to pay $700 for an msd crank trigger and msd ignition box. This is the second time you’ve asked about using this distributor with a carb. It can’t be done cheaply. You would be better off buying my Delco EST kit if this is for a marine engine. If it’s for a truck or car just use an old HEI distributor with vacuum advance.
Thanks for your help I will find a good used MSD box and trigger it for a marine engine and I need the space. Can’t use a tall distributor. Sorry if I asked the question too many times thank you.
You didn’t ask the question too many times. I just thought you didn’t understand my answer and I was making it clear that the answer wouldn’t change. But you didn’t explain why you needed a low profile distributor which changes the situation drastically. There are probably low profile distributors out there that have side post plug wires and have a magnetic reluctir pickup inside with centrifugal advance. If you find one a Ford Duraspark ignition module can fire the coil. This would a much cheaper way than a crank triggered MSD ignition.
The same thing happened to the fan motor in my heat pump. The motor is a 1/3 HP GE ECM motor. I also happened to have some JB Weld epoxy on hand and did the same repair. Any epoxy should work. There is nothing special about JB Weld. Thanks for posting your repair.
Thank you sir for the information. I had the tool to remove the gimbal bearing and it stripped the nut you turn to apply the pressure. I will try this method. Damn salt water!
Good video can I use a flat top distributor on 5.7 vortex with carb please help thank so very much
Big no. There is nothing in that distributor to trigger the ignition with. You’d need an msd crank trigger to fire an MSD ignition box and then the flat top distributor could route the spark but that would be expensive.
What is the part number ? On the chain and sprockets . Also mine has a tensioner ? It’s a 96+ vortec
It’s a lot more than a 96+ Vortec. Look up a 2010 Silverado 4.3 on RockAuto. I found a tensioner in the timing components. But your engine is getting into the later year options so don’t go by what I say. You’re going to have to get a service manual for your engine.
I have an 07 Tahoe with the 5.3 and a boat with a junk 470 merc. The truck is ready to be scraped out but engine still strong with only 243000 kms on it. You gave me new hope for the boat. Thanks.
Text me at 17063583175. I have some tips for you
Hi! thanks for such great videos. Have you encountered a situation where the tan-blue terminal on the ICM is constantly connected to the ground? It seems like a short circuit inside the ICM module. I am not planning to replace the TBV with DELCO just yet. My plan is to install an additional temperature switch somewhere in the water spider and move the tan-blue wire from the ICM module to it. This way, the ICM will receive readings from the temperature sensor, and the second switch will be responsible for triggering the buzzer.
You misunderstood the tan blue wire purpose. It leads back to the negative side of the alarm horn. A tan blue wire goes to each alarm device (low oil pressure, high temperature, and low gear oil level). If you are reading ground on the tan blue with engine off it’s because you are reading ground through the oil pressure switch which does sound the horn with the key on engine off. The yellow wire on TBV is for the analog temperature sensor. The TBV not only uses temperature to turn on the over temperature alarm it also retards the spark timing. Why do you suspect the over temperature alarm is not working?
@@moccasinmarine A bit different setup on my boat (Mariah SX9 2003). The low oil pressure switch does not use the tan/blue wire. It seems to only provide a positive connection to the fuel pump when shorted. However, if you remove the ICM from the engine and check the resistance between the tan/blue and black terminals (ICM), you get almost zero. This would mean that the buzzer should work constantly, which seems incorrect.
I can provide an exact wiring diagram of my boat. iBoats have a respective topic. Can't insert a URL here.
@@antons7852 there are three oil pressure devices. One is the sender for the gauge in dash, one is for the fuel pump power under way and the third is the low oil pressure alarm. When you turn on the key the low oil pressure switch does turn on the alarm horn until you start the engine. All tan blue wires are paralleled in the harness so if you read one wire to ground you’ll read back to the junction and then to ground through the oil pressure switch. Send me the link to the wiring via text to 706-358-3175.
@@moccasinmarine messaged you in a whatsapp and email.
Open it up....
You NEVER go WOT on a brand new engine. You must keep it under 3000 rpm for the first 10 hours. Otherwise it will not break in properly.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
❤❤❤❤❤❤
Does the raw water side when leving the HX to the exhaust manifolds have the same hose exit or seperate? I need to barnicle bust and trying to figure the return to bucket location. TY
At the 3:30 mark I point out the port exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger and at 3:40 mark I point out the starboard exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger.
What brand of main an rod bearing do you use on your builds?
Sealed power or CLEVITE 77 P series. I rarely use aluminum bearings even though GM factory bearings are aluminum. I have videos on the parts I use. ruclips.net/video/vR-mao6ZZX4/видео.htmlsi=joDRmlnI6dHZ6OzW
@@moccasinmarine how you feel about King hp bearings.
I only use top quality parts. The difference in cost isn’t worth the risk. I believe Engine Tech uses King bearings in their kits. I’m not impressed.
I currently have the roller lifter bolt finger tighten down. I have cylinder 1 on TDC but now I'm confused on which roller lifters I need to tighten down to 22ft pound. I only need to tighten down the 6 roller lifters on the left cylinders (2, 4 and 6). In the video you said to tighten down the 3 roller lifter bolt that had no spring tension, then rotate the engine 360 degrees and tighten the other 3 roller lifters bolt. How do I know which one has no spring tension and how do I know which ones to tighten down before rotating the engine 360 degrees? In other words what sequence do I tighten these roller lifters bolts? Can I tighten them all to 22ft pound at the same time without rotating the engine? If tighten them all down at the same time isn't an option, can you explain further on how to know which roller lifter bolt I need to tighten down first before rotating the engine? I'm staring at 6 roller lifter that are finger tighten down; I'm now just so confused about what I have to do next? If I could get your input that would be great. Thanks!
Text me at 706-358-3175 for a tip
What does this upgrade improve? Better what?
It makes the engine run period. Thunderbolt modules are very old and beginning to fail. The Delco EST system is a better system.
Can i have the starter part number number?
Anytime you need a part number go to www.marinengine.com and use the search function.
Gosh that super information but you speak so blooming fast have to keep watching it to try to keep up with you. Slow it down mate, but thanks again for the info. Invaluable.
I just wanted to say that your video is very informative. Mine broke apart in like 10 different pieces, but watching your video made me realize that sometimes you just have to do it the hard way.
thanks
Hy! Are you still selling these kits? I need one while it`s still summer :)
Yes text your full name, shipping address, email, and your engine serial number and I’ll send you a quote/invoice for the kit you need. Text me at +17063583175.
non parla italiano
Can I buy a set timing harness?
Yes I sell them for $25 but why would you need just that part?
would you happen to know the size of the 12 point 4 bolts that hold on the exhaust
I think they are 3/8” x 16 stainless steel but not positive
thank you i wandering why one would not tighten up
wat the part number for the manifold gaskets
The 35 ft lbs is for the Pre Vortec engines (intake has 12 bolts; up to 1995). The 11 ft lbs is for the Vortec engines (intake has 8 bolts; 1996 and up. Does this makes sense for the pre Vortec seems like a big difference?
I see the answer in a previous reply. My aftermarket pre Vortec gaskets is the plastic style from Michigan motoz
I’ve never heard of plastic gaskets for the pre Vortec heads. Are you certain they have 6 bolt holes on each gasket? The plastic gaskets can’t handle the torque of 35 ft lbs. They will crush. The other gaskets are coated paper and need the crush to seal.
@@moccasinmarine you are right it's not a plastic gasket. The gasket came with some steel tabs for a center port, not sure what that's about
I use the Comp Cams composite gear on my billet steel camshaft in my big block Chevy engines. You can use a bronze gear on the billet cam but I don’t like the way my oil looks when I change my oil, it puts a minute amount of bronze in the oil and I suppose it doesn’t hurt anything but I want to be able to do a better inspection of my oil when I take it out of the pan.
The art of selling products is to the find the lowest cost part that does the job and make sure the part is not a Chinese ripoff that doesn’t meet the specification that it claims to have. The GM melonized gear is the only one I trust to meet the melonized specification and while it’s not cheap it’s not extravagantly priced.
@@moccasinmarine i agree, it’s hard to find parts that are not made in China. I’m 74 and been a drag racer since I was a teenager and I remember when GM parts started getting parts made in Mexico and I thought that was bad. 🤦♂️
Can you use the button position on the distributer to determine the firing of the piston. Seems like the best way to determine it unless I'm missing something.
At this stage of rebuilding I have not installed the distributor but yes if it were installed you could use it.
Thank you for getting back with me. I tried it and am getting zero compression. What have I done wrong at this point. I used the button to verify the cylander was due to fire and everything.
The distributor can only be used if it was installed properly and it sounds like it wasn’t. Don’t use the distributor. Rotate the engine until you see the exhaust valve on cylinder 1 move. Keep rotating until exhaust valve opens all the way and then closes. Just as the exhaust closes you’ll see the intake begin to open. You are now close to TDC on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the engine one full turn and line up the zero mark on timing tab with the notch on the pulley. You are now at TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1. Readjust both valves for just that cylinder. Using the firing order of 1,3,4,2 rotate the engine exactly 180 degrees and then adjust both valves on cylinder 3, then rotate 180 degrees again and adjust both valves on cylinder 4, rotate 180 degrees again and adjust both valves on cylinder 2. They should now all be adjusted correctly. Since the lifters may be pumped up with oil you’ll have to wait about an hour or so before running it to allow lifters to pump down. If it still has no compression you have a stuck lifter that is not allowing any preload. Oh btw, once you get back to TDC on cylinder 1, reinstall the distributor lining up the rotor to cylinder #1.
Como escucharlo en español
Did u use any silicone with the gasket
No, any gasket that has a rubbery or graphite or any other coating you don’t use any gasket sealer. The only gaskets I use silicone on are plain paper gaskets and maybe boosting the sealing of a Vortec rubber gasket around a water port.
My TB V had two wires on the old coil, purple, and the grey/white that you left abandoned on the old TB harness, have you ever seen that?
Yes that’s how thunder bolt IV systems are wired. One purple from the ignition switch providing power and another purple leaving that powers the Thunderbolt IV module.
@moccasinmarine so the grey and white wire must be the grey wire that goes on your ignition coil? I read that they are all grey but I see no other option on mine...it must be spliced somewhere to go back to the tac?
@@jasonhosking8439 I’ve never seen a gray and white wire. The colors are too close together to be distinguishable. Are you sure it’s not just a white wire with dirt?
@moccasinmarine 100%, and a continuity test confirms it is the one that is abandoned on the TB V harness. I found a diagram that shows that wire is spliced into a run from the harness to the old TB module.
I install new intake manifold gaskets, now the engine wont start, what do you think the problem is??
That’s way too little information to answer. But it’s not getting spark or fuel would be my answer.
carburetor had fuel, spray quick star, it back fire on #1 , spark plugs are new, rotor is new. though maybe timing ? we turn distributor right and left in small increments, and nothing.
Sounds like you have the firing order wrong on the distributor cap. The cylinders are 1,3,5 on the port side front to back and 2,4,6 on the starboard side. Going clockwise from #1 distributor post the order is 165432.
It a Marine Power Chevy 350 left turning engine.
Show where you put the jumper telling us doesn't work
Would any of this cause an engine to have poor throttle response by way of seemingly no adjustment to timing by the PCM? I just pulled my dad's old Ram out of the woods this spring and my friend did the lion share of resto on it mechanically. It does have new injectors and cap/rotor. It turns on and runs, but basically only responds to low throttle activation. If I floor it it might do nothing, or it might if running at road speeds dump to 1st. But from 20% throttle to 90% throttle it basically does nothing other than ever so slowly crawl a bit faster. For reference, the engine and trans themselves have less than 10k on them having been replaced a decade or more ago.
It’s not timing. The engine won’t start if cam sensor is not working and once it’s running, the PCM doesn’t need cam sensor for ignition timing. Being that it sat up a long time my guess is either bad fuel, wrong size injectors, fuel pump gummed up or sluggish. Get a fuel pressure gauge and measure fuel pressure while running. I think that’s where you’ll find your problem.
@@moccasinmarine I had already grabbed a fuel gauge and will test this weekend. Hadn't thought of injectors being wrong size... might be worth verifying. I was going to test based on it having a new fuel pump in case it wasn't hitting pressure. I did go on to find the other videos last night and realized the distributor is a goofy cam sensor of sorts. That does alleviate my concern about it.