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Still working on it.

@@moccasinmarine that isnt selling your video claiming how easy the conversion is!!! can i ask why you havent done it yet? time/finances/complexity?

@@moccasinmarine i am between a straight up repower with a 350MAG or consider LS swap

I didn’t say I haven’t done it yet. I said I’m working on it. When you launch a new product you don’t just throw junk on the market that’s untested and not profitable to manufacture. An LS in factory configuration won’t fit in a boat. It’s easy for me but not for most people so I’m trying to make it easy for everyone as in buy my kit, bolt it on, drop it in, and go boating. That’s takes time to develop and do sea trials. I’ll have all this done by November in time to launch in December for winter repowering.

No you still have to drain the exhaust manifolds as they are low points in the raw water side. Any low points in raw water side still have to be drained.

I’m doing two conversions now. Videos released in about a month. You can run the Alpha one but you may have to change props or gear ratios.

Glad you liked it!

More to come!

By the nature of your question you don’t understand the difference between static and dynamic timing. I have videos on static timing elsewhere on my channel.

@@moccasinmarine I got my distributor set ready to fire on cylinder one and I have the notch on the pulley lined to tdc “0” I’ve got my timing light ready I’ve got my jumper wire set and the switch wired up my thing is do I adjust the distributor until that notch strikes the 2btdc on the tab or should I set the pulley on 2 btdc to start

@@moccasinmarine I also appreciate your help

Ok so you know more than you implied. With dynamic timing it doesn’t matter where the engine starts from. The timing light only triggers when the distributor fires the #1 cylinder. Loosen the distributor to where it rotates by hand but not to where it will turn on its own. Crank it up and let it idle around 600-800 rpm (doesn’t matter as long as it not over 1000 rpm) then use the timing light to watch the pulley notch light up under the timing tab. Depending on the year it could be 1 degree BTDC or 2 degrees ATDC (after TDC). Look for the timing setting on the flame arrestor sticker. If it won’t idle or fire up move the distributor around a little at a time until it fires up. Then start setting timing with the light. While you can rotate the distributor with it running with rubber gloves I recommend shutting down to rotate distributor. You can lose a finger, hand, or your life if you fall into engine after getting shocked. Once the timing marks line up to the correct timing shut down, tighten distributor, and check one last time. Timing to the exact number is important. Btw you start the engine and then connect the set timing tool. If it idles too slow speed it up with idle speed screw on carb. If the engine doesn’t slow down when set timing tool is connected to battery power then the timing tool is not making a connection to +12volts.

You have earlier heads that require adjustment. This video covers later model heads. The information is not wrong.

I have no idea what you’re asking me

Ignore this video. It is obsolete. The video below is currently the best way to wire the system. ruclips.net/video/YPNZbf4MWUo/видео.htmlsi=Q7_BnsqdWubq9o4E

Mr. White, I have explained this as clearly and straight forward as I can. No other kit uses a GM module. The other kits are selling inferior modules. Most of them are truck modules that don’t work in a marine engine. I also got burned six times before I finally switched to GM modules exclusively. I stated this very clearly in the first video. You’ll need to switch to a GM module if you can find one.

Not unless you want to pay $700 for an msd crank trigger and msd ignition box. This is the second time you’ve asked about using this distributor with a carb. It can’t be done cheaply. You would be better off buying my Delco EST kit if this is for a marine engine. If it’s for a truck or car just use an old HEI distributor with vacuum advance.

Thanks for your help I will find a good used MSD box and trigger it for a marine engine and I need the space. Can’t use a tall distributor. Sorry if I asked the question too many times thank you.

You didn’t ask the question too many times. I just thought you didn’t understand my answer and I was making it clear that the answer wouldn’t change. But you didn’t explain why you needed a low profile distributor which changes the situation drastically. There are probably low profile distributors out there that have side post plug wires and have a magnetic reluctir pickup inside with centrifugal advance. If you find one a Ford Duraspark ignition module can fire the coil. This would a much cheaper way than a crank triggered MSD ignition.

Big no. There is nothing in that distributor to trigger the ignition with. You’d need an msd crank trigger to fire an MSD ignition box and then the flat top distributor could route the spark but that would be expensive.

It’s a lot more than a 96+ Vortec. Look up a 2010 Silverado 4.3 on RockAuto. I found a tensioner in the timing components. But your engine is getting into the later year options so don’t go by what I say. You’re going to have to get a service manual for your engine.

Text me at 17063583175. I have some tips for you

You misunderstood the tan blue wire purpose. It leads back to the negative side of the alarm horn. A tan blue wire goes to each alarm device (low oil pressure, high temperature, and low gear oil level). If you are reading ground on the tan blue with engine off it’s because you are reading ground through the oil pressure switch which does sound the horn with the key on engine off. The yellow wire on TBV is for the analog temperature sensor. The TBV not only uses temperature to turn on the over temperature alarm it also retards the spark timing. Why do you suspect the over temperature alarm is not working?

@@moccasinmarine A bit different setup on my boat (Mariah SX9 2003). The low oil pressure switch does not use the tan/blue wire. It seems to only provide a positive connection to the fuel pump when shorted. However, if you remove the ICM from the engine and check the resistance between the tan/blue and black terminals (ICM), you get almost zero. This would mean that the buzzer should work constantly, which seems incorrect.

I can provide an exact wiring diagram of my boat. iBoats have a respective topic. Can't insert a URL here.

@@antons7852 there are three oil pressure devices. One is the sender for the gauge in dash, one is for the fuel pump power under way and the third is the low oil pressure alarm. When you turn on the key the low oil pressure switch does turn on the alarm horn until you start the engine. All tan blue wires are paralleled in the harness so if you read one wire to ground you’ll read back to the junction and then to ground through the oil pressure switch. Send me the link to the wiring via text to 706-358-3175.

@@moccasinmarine messaged you in a whatsapp and email.

You NEVER go WOT on a brand new engine. You must keep it under 3000 rpm for the first 10 hours. Otherwise it will not break in properly.

At the 3:30 mark I point out the port exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger and at 3:40 mark I point out the starboard exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger.

Sealed power or CLEVITE 77 P series. I rarely use aluminum bearings even though GM factory bearings are aluminum. I have videos on the parts I use. ruclips.net/video/vR-mao6ZZX4/видео.htmlsi=joDRmlnI6dHZ6OzW

@@moccasinmarine how you feel about King hp bearings.

I only use top quality parts. The difference in cost isn’t worth the risk. I believe Engine Tech uses King bearings in their kits. I’m not impressed.

Text me at 706-358-3175 for a tip

It makes the engine run period. Thunderbolt modules are very old and beginning to fail. The Delco EST system is a better system.

Anytime you need a part number go to www.marinengine.com and use the search function.

Yes text your full name, shipping address, email, and your engine serial number and I’ll send you a quote/invoice for the kit you need. Text me at +17063583175.

Yes I sell them for $25 but why would you need just that part?

I think they are 3/8” x 16 stainless steel but not positive

I see the answer in a previous reply. My aftermarket pre Vortec gaskets is the plastic style from Michigan motoz

I’ve never heard of plastic gaskets for the pre Vortec heads. Are you certain they have 6 bolt holes on each gasket? The plastic gaskets can’t handle the torque of 35 ft lbs. They will crush. The other gaskets are coated paper and need the crush to seal.

@@moccasinmarine you are right it's not a plastic gasket. The gasket came with some steel tabs for a center port, not sure what that's about

The art of selling products is to the find the lowest cost part that does the job and make sure the part is not a Chinese ripoff that doesn’t meet the specification that it claims to have. The GM melonized gear is the only one I trust to meet the melonized specification and while it’s not cheap it’s not extravagantly priced.

@@moccasinmarine i agree, it’s hard to find parts that are not made in China. I’m 74 and been a drag racer since I was a teenager and I remember when GM parts started getting parts made in Mexico and I thought that was bad. 🤦‍♂️

At this stage of rebuilding I have not installed the distributor but yes if it were installed you could use it.

Thank you for getting back with me. I tried it and am getting zero compression. What have I done wrong at this point. I used the button to verify the cylander was due to fire and everything.

The distributor can only be used if it was installed properly and it sounds like it wasn’t. Don’t use the distributor. Rotate the engine until you see the exhaust valve on cylinder 1 move. Keep rotating until exhaust valve opens all the way and then closes. Just as the exhaust closes you’ll see the intake begin to open. You are now close to TDC on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the engine one full turn and line up the zero mark on timing tab with the notch on the pulley. You are now at TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1. Readjust both valves for just that cylinder. Using the firing order of 1,3,4,2 rotate the engine exactly 180 degrees and then adjust both valves on cylinder 3, then rotate 180 degrees again and adjust both valves on cylinder 4, rotate 180 degrees again and adjust both valves on cylinder 2. They should now all be adjusted correctly. Since the lifters may be pumped up with oil you’ll have to wait about an hour or so before running it to allow lifters to pump down. If it still has no compression you have a stuck lifter that is not allowing any preload. Oh btw, once you get back to TDC on cylinder 1, reinstall the distributor lining up the rotor to cylinder #1.

No, any gasket that has a rubbery or graphite or any other coating you don’t use any gasket sealer. The only gaskets I use silicone on are plain paper gaskets and maybe boosting the sealing of a Vortec rubber gasket around a water port.

Yes that’s how thunder bolt IV systems are wired. One purple from the ignition switch providing power and another purple leaving that powers the Thunderbolt IV module.

@moccasinmarine so the grey and white wire must be the grey wire that goes on your ignition coil? I read that they are all grey but I see no other option on mine...it must be spliced somewhere to go back to the tac?

@@jasonhosking8439 I’ve never seen a gray and white wire. The colors are too close together to be distinguishable. Are you sure it’s not just a white wire with dirt?

@moccasinmarine 100%, and a continuity test confirms it is the one that is abandoned on the TB V harness. I found a diagram that shows that wire is spliced into a run from the harness to the old TB module.

That’s way too little information to answer. But it’s not getting spark or fuel would be my answer.

carburetor had fuel, spray quick star, it back fire on #1 , spark plugs are new, rotor is new. though maybe timing ? we turn distributor right and left in small increments, and nothing.

Sounds like you have the firing order wrong on the distributor cap. The cylinders are 1,3,5 on the port side front to back and 2,4,6 on the starboard side. Going clockwise from #1 distributor post the order is 165432.

It a Marine Power Chevy 350 left turning engine.

It’s not timing. The engine won’t start if cam sensor is not working and once it’s running, the PCM doesn’t need cam sensor for ignition timing. Being that it sat up a long time my guess is either bad fuel, wrong size injectors, fuel pump gummed up or sluggish. Get a fuel pressure gauge and measure fuel pressure while running. I think that’s where you’ll find your problem.

@@moccasinmarine I had already grabbed a fuel gauge and will test this weekend. Hadn't thought of injectors being wrong size... might be worth verifying. I was going to test based on it having a new fuel pump in case it wasn't hitting pressure. I did go on to find the other videos last night and realized the distributor is a goofy cam sensor of sorts. That does alleviate my concern about it.