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The video series you are looking at contains all the information you need. But a 1998 would almost certainly be a Thunderbolt 5. If you look on the flame arrestor or valve cover you should find the engine serial number. That tells me all I need to know to provide the proper kit. You can email me at moccasin.marine.llc@gmail.com with the above info.

Sure it’s not brown w light blue stripe? That would an alarm wire that sounds buzzer if it touches ground. It goes to the over temperature switch more than likely.

@moccasinmarine the wire it too short to of been able to connect to the temp switch. It's definitely brown with a yellow strip. Is there anywhere i could send you a picture of it?

Moccasin.marine.llc@gmail.com

I’m building two now. I can definitely say I don’t recommend drive by wire. I did a video on my reasons which I’m not ready to publish. Contact me privately if you want to know why. I plan to release all the videos when’s it all done.

@ What is your email address?

It’s moccasin.marine.llc@gmail.com

Thanks

I do appreciate donations. My PayPal handle is www.paypal.me/JohnWilson994657. But my primary goal of this channel is to create a market for tools and parts that I design and sell. That way you get a tangible item for your money. You can donate whatever you feel is fair.

Just curious what was wrong with the engine when you got the boat? Also be sure to run 89 or higher octane for the life of the boat and 91 or higher during the break in period. Mercruiser engines are basically GM truck engines and need to be treated with care since they are pushed to their limits everytime you put it in the water. High octane is a safety margin that’s needed on a high RPM truck engine. Also, ethanol gas, E-10 runs lean in a carbureted engine because the jets are set up for pure gasoline. So running low octane combined with ethanol gas is going to detonate the engine.

No it’s all steel.

@ Thanks 👍

It’s great to hear you got some help from my videos. All I ask any of my viewers is to seriously consider purchasing my tools and parts from my video links. My main motivation is create a market for tools and parts to make boat work easier. This way you get something for your money and I am able to stay in business to keep the videos coming.

Thanks

I can’t say it often enough, read the description of all my videos. I plainly state this is part 1 of the teardown and I state that in the video.

Some racers partially fill unused cooling cavities to reduce the water volume and lower the weight. If you do that on heads they are no longer interchangeable left to right. Otherwise it doesn’t hurt anything as long as they didn’t overfill it.

Funny you mention that now. The SUV (Traverse) quit running gradually over a week. So I’m doing the job again. I have the cover off and all chains are still in place and tensioned. But the exhaust phaser on the front bank (GM calls it the right bank) has failed because it isn’t locked. It moves with a wrench with the engine off. After reading about Cloyes chains breaking I bought all Melling this time around. I’m replacing the phaser with a genuine GM part but honestly it doesn’t look better quality than the Chinese Melling phaser I returned. I hope to have it all back together soon.

It’s been too long to remember but 90% of the time it’s because customer didn’t drain engine block in winter. It cracks internally and water is continuously pumped into engine until it fills up with water oil mix.

@ thanks. I’ve just had similar with a 5.0 but I’m in Australia and we don’t have the freezing problem so looking for other answers.

@@damienjohnson7582 if it didn’t freeze the next most likely cause is a leaking intake gasket at the corners. Water leaks into lifter valley and gets into oil pan.

I haven’t noticed any difference in blocks between a truck and boat engine. I have noticed that if you buy a “new” crate boat engine the block has a higher content of Chinesium.

@@moccasinmarine The blocks I seen were from the 70’s (400’s). They had a color to them that were different from the norm. They were also Noticeably heavier. They had more nickel in them making them stronger. I was just asking because of the color of the block you were showing. Although I’m seeing it from a phone.😂😂 Just asking. Thanks for the video.

Your’re wrong. Show proof from any GM document where it says to shim the oil pump.

I don’t recommend EFI for a boat unless it’s already on the boat. Why do you want an EFI kit?

This is an open system. It fills up with raw water automatically once the drive is turning. You can’t and SHOULD not attempt to put coolant in this system. All the coolant will come out on the ground in less than 2 minutes.

Antifreeze for winter I have to run it though the system 100%

ruclips.net/video/LboIjbWTRTc/видео.htmlsi=oyJGwj7yTzwHYYuR

Around the 30 min mark

ruclips.net/video/LboIjbWTRTc/видео.htmlsi=u7f7CHyeqpur_dO9

If there are no leaks the system expansion tank should do the job of allowing the water to expand and contract between run cycles. So after initial fill and expansion you don’t need the bottle. But in the real world the bottle makes up for any leaks over time.

I don’t know what you mean by closed loop. What loop are you closing? Is your engine carbureted or fuel injection?

You need to watch my #1 video in this series and pay very close attention. I do not recommend any other module than the Delco D1965A. All others are Chinese knock offs and more than likely will give you problems like random stalling on the water. It happened to 6 of my customers. Once I replaced the aftermarket (Sierra Included) modules with genuine GM modules the issues went away. I don’t sell any modules because I need all that I have for my complete kits. They are sold for around $225 on Marine Parts Source. marinepartssource.com/ignition-module-o-e-delco?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtXKRTh79qfo79GuMcCTXYcIQCte&gclid=Cj0KCQjw05i4BhDiARIsAB_2wfAA-6tRgtbIS2Vkr765tu65JP90oBqPJe2812CFvO-s-S3N_eshnjsaAqyvEALw_wcB If you don’t see GM on the module it’s a knock off, not always but usually. Older NOS modules may not have the GM logo but they are GM modules. Volvo Penta 3854003 is the same part.

it’s in the video.

Found it I wasn’t able to get the 7.601 that you ordered but got the 7.645 from a 71-72 boss 302 they’re from Elgin as well. Would you say the .044 extra would give that higher percentage you would have shot for?

Using your math I’d be at 75% but I’ll measure mine too! This video was a HUGE HELP for running small base circle #351w #camshafts from #speedmaster!

It’s in the first video in this playlist but you can’t find them.

@@moccasinmarine so the D1965A will work on boats?

If you didn’t buy my kit you are headed down a rabbit hole I can’t get you out of. While I’m pretty sure you bought a kit before you found my you tube kits, you need to watch my videos very carefully. I explain that other kits are inferior because they don’t use genuine GM ignition modules. You can order anything you want but knowing what to order takes work. The manual for the Delco EST is found here: f01.justanswer.com/oldnewenglandmarine/36c97f52-be29-4a64-9ab5-8bf8b351bf86_Delco_EST.pdf

Also, you said TB V not IV, my IV looks just like this, plugs and all, can I set it up like this or not? Everything appears the same except the wires on coil are purple and gray, but Im good with wiring so Im not scared.

I’m not understanding your questions. First if your system looks like a TB 5 then it’s a TB 5. The TB 4 is entirely different. You are also asking questions that have been covered in several videos. Finally, I sell a kit that I created using knowledge and skills. The parts contained in my kits are proprietary and I don’t reveal individual part numbers.

​​@@moccasinmarineOk, I was a bit confused because I was sure it was a V, but the part number on the ignition control box came back to a IV, must be an error. TY. .

Anything but genuine GM is a crapshoot. You haven’t watched enough of my videos to know that aftermarket modules fail on a regular basis. Also, do you really think a $20 Chinese made module knockoff is going to work reliably? You get what you pay for.

@@moccasinmarine great, found one on rock auto genuine delco, did not know I could get original

I also saw that one. It’s also listed on eBay and finditparts.com. I didn’t buy it because it doesn’t look genuine GM. What happens is someone buys the GM module, swaps in a knockoff, returns it for a refund, and RockAuto not having humans just sells it again as GM. The giveaway is the chrome screw holes. GM doesn’t use chrome screw holes on any modules I’ve ever seen.

I did another video on how I adjust valves. I only used the method in this video because the manual explains it this way. I think my way is much better and faster. Mercruiser 3.0 3(c) - Easier Way To Adjust Valves!! ruclips.net/video/1A7mteNPCxc/видео.html

@moccasinmarine I have brand new lifters to install and set the rockers In a motor I just had rebuilt. Do I presoak the lifters in oil?

@@Molly-hk2rk there is no point in soaking lifters in oil. All it does is make a mess. Since the 3.0 is a flat tappet camshaft you do need to use assemble lube on the lifter face and can lobe when installing lifters. Just put a few drops of oil all around the lifter body and assembly lube and install the lifter. Without oil pressure around the lifter oil will not enter the lifter body even if they are soaked in oil. When you prime the engine with with a drill it will fill the lifters with oil at that time. Also do not run the engine at idle during first run. It needs to run 1500-2000 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the camshaft. This is critical to having the camshaft last.

Watch the video and read the comments. Your questions are already answered.

A new outdrive system with transom plate and drive is going to cost 10 times or more than your engines combined.

@moccasinmarine I need a new transom no matter what route I take, a new outboard is $15k... I'm looking at Bravo outdrives for $5k...

You changed the rules on me. You didn’t say it needed a new transom anyway. But the labor to rebuild the transom assembly and the drive is going to be over $10k alone.

If the nut isn’t a friction nut then yes torque it down. No adjustment needed.

Put a socket on the alternator nut and turn alternator. If belt slips put more tension on belt with your palm.

No video on winterizing but if you are running antifreeze on the closed side half is already done. Just follow the pipe coming off the hull and drain all low points. The exhaust manifolds will need draining and the raw water side of the heat exchanger. If its fuel injected the fuel cooler as well. EDIT: let me clarify low points. I’m not talking about just the obvious lowest piping in the bilge. I’m talking about traps where water is trapped in any low points below two higher points. In the video the pipes leaving the heat exchanger going to the bottom of the exhaust manifolds are low traps even though the raw water pipe at the fuel cooler is technically lower. So if we use the engine in the video as an example, you’ll need to drain the raw water pump itself and the hose leaving it going to the steering cooler, you’ll need to drain the fuel cooler, and then drain the hose under both exhaust manifolds. To drain a hose Mercruiser usually installs the blue twist plugs to make it easier but not always. As long as you have good antifreeze the block and intake doesn’t need draining.

@@moccasinmarine i would also love a video on winterising it!

Call Scott’s Machine Shop in Fayetteville GA. He can sell you one or tell you where to get one.

This video is 2 years old and i haven’t touched the drive since so I can’t help you.

Still working on it.

@@moccasinmarine that isnt selling your video claiming how easy the conversion is!!! can i ask why you havent done it yet? time/finances/complexity?

@@moccasinmarine i am between a straight up repower with a 350MAG or consider LS swap

I didn’t say I haven’t done it yet. I said I’m working on it. When you launch a new product you don’t just throw junk on the market that’s untested and not profitable to manufacture. An LS in factory configuration won’t fit in a boat. It’s easy for me but not for most people so I’m trying to make it easy for everyone as in buy my kit, bolt it on, drop it in, and go boating. That’s takes time to develop and do sea trials. I’ll have all this done by November in time to launch in December for winter repowering.

No you still have to drain the exhaust manifolds as they are low points in the raw water side. Any low points in raw water side still have to be drained.

I’m doing two conversions now. Videos released in about a month. You can run the Alpha one but you may have to change props or gear ratios.