Some people kinda know what they are talking about...but are really guessing. You actually know what your doing, thank you soooo much for taking the time to make a video!!
I have tried everything under the sun. I am either stuck in base timing mode or I cannot out of it. My engine dies immediately after I apply 12V to the 3rd pin from the right (B - Bypass) at ~1500RPM. It is not advancing so I suspect I am stuck in base timing mode or the module is bad. However, I bought a new module in 2017 when I acquired the boat and it has been sitting while I mess with it to try to figure out the timing issue, among other things. It only has about 20 hours on this module and ~70 hrs on the engine. Any help or input is most appreciated. Your videos are super thorough and and amazing help. Thank you. - Mercruiser 3.0LX with EST Ignition
start the engine and use a timing light to see if you can read in the current timing position (8 degrees?) then advance the throttle to see if the time does advance as you increase rpm, this can be done in neutral. If the timing does not advance then yes the module is bad, if it does advance then the base timing may to low (why it stalls when B+ applied. try advancing the timing some more in neutral and then at 1500-2000 rpm try attaching the bypass wire to B+ and see if you can set it to base.
Hi Ted , I have an issue at 2500 rpm only. 3.0 lx 2000 carb. Ignition module is so hot cant touch it. Are there specific modules or are they all the same ( 2pin + 4 pin).I use the 2 pins only.would the ignition pickup coil be part of the problem.
Google Thermal Paste, SYY 2 on amazon. Remove the module, clean the surfaces with carb or brake cleaner, apply and re-bolt. Be careful and don't strip the bolts. I think it's 28 in lbs.
Just a question for a problem that is driving me crazy. I have a 1994 Crusader 7.4 XL with the EST distributor, MSTS and a Holley carb. When I run the engine on load and then bring it back to idle it wants to idle at 1400 rpm. If I shut it off and restart it then idles at 750 or normal. The Holley carb is mechanical on the secondary's and they do not hang open. I really think it's an electronic issue keeping the timing advanced. I replaced the MAP valve that runs off engine vacuum from the carb but that wasn't the culprit. I haven't read that the ignition module could be doing this but that is my next choice. Any thoughts?
It well could be the module. the way to test it is to have a timing light at the ready. See if the timing is well advanced when you return to idle speed (but it hangs at 1400). If so change the module and don't forget to put thermal paste on the bottom of it prior to installation.
Thank you I did buy paste and a new module. I'll give it a go. The last time I used a timing light was probably 30 years ago. Mine is not inductive so I will buy a new one. It's tight quarters on a boat as you probably know.
Hi Ted, after you use the shunt connection tool, can you just leave it inserted because I have nothing that plugs into that port so it is open to air. Thanks
Thunderbolt 5 has a fancy microprocessor built into the ignition module (does several different things) it also has a separate knock sensor and separate module attached next to the ignition module.
Some people kinda know what they are talking about...but are really guessing. You actually know what your doing, thank you soooo much for taking the time to make a video!!
Thank you for the positive feedback! I've done that a few times as well.
I have tried everything under the sun. I am either stuck in base timing mode or I cannot out of it. My engine dies immediately after I apply 12V to the 3rd pin from the right (B - Bypass) at ~1500RPM. It is not advancing so I suspect I am stuck in base timing mode or the module is bad. However, I bought a new module in 2017 when I acquired the boat and it has been sitting while I mess with it to try to figure out the timing issue, among other things. It only has about 20 hours on this module and ~70 hrs on the engine. Any help or input is most appreciated. Your videos are super thorough and and amazing help. Thank you. - Mercruiser 3.0LX with EST Ignition
start the engine and use a timing light to see if you can read in the current timing position (8 degrees?) then advance the throttle to see if the time does advance as you increase rpm, this can be done in neutral. If the timing does not advance then yes the module is bad, if it does advance then the base timing may to low (why it stalls when B+ applied. try advancing the timing some more in neutral and then at 1500-2000 rpm try attaching the bypass wire to B+ and see if you can set it to base.
Hi Ted , I have an issue at 2500 rpm only. 3.0 lx 2000 carb. Ignition module is so hot cant touch it. Are there specific modules or are they all the same ( 2pin + 4 pin).I use the 2 pins only.would the ignition pickup coil be part of the problem.
Google Thermal Paste, SYY 2 on amazon. Remove the module, clean the surfaces with carb or brake cleaner, apply and re-bolt. Be careful and don't strip the bolts. I think it's 28 in lbs.
Or less....
Just a question for a problem that is driving me crazy. I have a 1994 Crusader 7.4 XL with the EST distributor, MSTS and a Holley carb. When I run the engine on load and then bring it back to idle it wants to idle at 1400 rpm. If I shut it off and restart it then idles at 750 or normal. The Holley carb is mechanical on the secondary's and they do not hang open. I really think it's an electronic issue keeping the timing advanced. I replaced the MAP valve that runs off engine vacuum from the carb but that wasn't the culprit. I haven't read that the ignition module could be doing this but that is my next choice. Any thoughts?
It well could be the module. the way to test it is to have a timing light at the ready. See if the timing is well advanced when you return to idle speed (but it hangs at 1400). If so change the module and don't forget to put thermal paste on the bottom of it prior to installation.
Thank you I did buy paste and a new module. I'll give it a go. The last time I used a timing light was probably 30 years ago. Mine is not inductive so I will buy a new one. It's tight quarters on a boat as you probably know.
@@deborahbaty3369 see if anyone has one you can borrow!
Hi Ted, after you use the shunt connection tool, can you just leave it inserted because I have nothing that plugs into that port so it is open to air. Thanks
Yes, I suppose so. Some had plug covers, but I have no idea as to where to find one.
Does a thunderbolt 5 ignition have a dst distributor on a 5.7 mercruiser
Thunderbolt 5 has a fancy microprocessor built into the ignition module (does several different things) it also has a separate knock sensor and separate module attached next to the ignition module.
How to get timing control using holley efi with that kind of distributor?
Soery, don't know haven't worked on that type
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 The normal fuel injection system for a volvo penta what wire normal go to the ECU from the delco est distributor?
hi Ted ,Paul in Scotland sent you an email hope you got it ok 👍