Again an awesome detail tip . Everyday I look forward to another tip from. So realistic and simple. You have the best detailing tips on line. Thanks for sharing them with us 👍
Hey I like that! Thanks. The real deal on a truck, from my trucking experience, shock absorbers become nothing more than an ornament a month after putting them on new!
outstanding tutorial - you make it look manageable without too much effort. I'll need to get some of those bolt heads and add some brass tubing to the aluminum stock I keep.
I have to remember to get some brass tubing for stock as well, I often go with aluminum because of its ease of cutting and ability to polish to chrome like finish on stacks however the "solderability" is not there.
Great video look,s really good I enjoy watching your work! It kind of gave me a idea? You could actually make them shock,s functional by adding a piece of ink pen spring inside the shock tube. But you would have to make your spring hanger,s work too. I have figured that out not hard to do. Maybe you can come up with a video of that! Or maybe you already did! Anyway,s keep up the good work excellent tutorial video,s as always.👍🏼
With the exception of soldering gun/iron and supplies, and possibly hobby vise, most of the required tools are same ones used for most modelling applications so tool outlay shouldn't be that bad.
You're right that some kits don't include shocks. It does make you wonder, when they say 250 parts in a kit, they mean it. And no more! But is the way to correct that.
I hadn't thought about the exact parts count before, maybe that's why Ertl's Transtar 4300 lacks a steering shaft from cab to steering box! Looking at instruction sheets for a variety of kits it is quite interesting to see how some have the majority of parts for some systems like the air brakes (tanks, valves, front and rear brake chambers etc.) and others only have the tanks and brake chambers.
Thanks for sharing. Just what I was looking for. A friend's Dad had a 66 Red Impala 4 door pillared car growing up, her dad replaced shocks with truck ones lol I'm buliding in 1/25 scale as a memorial to her Dad & car! Any tips I should follow? Thanks /Rosemary
Building a 1/25 replica is a great tribute. Basic process for building shock absorbers is similar whether for car or truck, material sizes might be slightly smaller for car (you can use the kit shocks as a guide to general size). Google search for ‘66 Impala shock absorbers shows rear shocks like the ones built for this fire truck project with eyes top and bottom, front shocks look even easier to built as they have an eye at the top, bottom of piston is threaded and presumably attaches to lower control arm.
I never thought about contrasting colors helping assembly with fabbed parts, great idea! Who/where is your black styrene coming from? Thanks for sharing
I found a package of .010" Evergreen black styrene sheets years ago at a hobby shop, Evergreen's web site does show it in the range of thicknesses from .010" up to .080". One package of the .010" in 6" x 12" size has four sheets, enough to supply modelling needs for quite some time!
I use Micro-Mark's "Micro Punch Set", item # 83513 on their web site. 9 punches from 1.0 mm (0.039 inch) to 5.0 mm (0.197 inch) diameter in 0.5 mm (0.0197 inch) increments. A small soft faced mallet is also a good ide to use with it to avoid damaging end of punch over time.
Those black styrene disks (or rubber pieces on real shocks) are a fantastic idea. Improves the whole look of the shock absorber mounting area.
Again an awesome detail tip . Everyday I look forward to another tip from. So realistic and simple. You have the best detailing tips on line. Thanks for sharing them with us 👍
Hey I like that! Thanks. The real deal on a truck, from my trucking experience, shock absorbers become nothing more than an ornament a month after putting them on new!
A lot of tutorial in a short video. Great detail.
great tutorial video my friend.
Thank you!
outstanding tutorial - you make it look manageable without too much effort. I'll need to get some of those bolt heads and add some brass tubing to the aluminum stock I keep.
I have to remember to get some brass tubing for stock as well, I often go with aluminum because of its ease of cutting and ability to polish to chrome like finish on stacks however the "solderability" is not there.
More great stuff!
Great video look,s really good I enjoy watching your work! It kind of gave me a idea? You could actually make them shock,s functional by adding a piece of ink pen spring inside the shock tube. But you would have to make your spring hanger,s work too. I have figured that out not hard to do. Maybe you can come up with a video of that! Or maybe you already did! Anyway,s keep up the good work excellent tutorial video,s as always.👍🏼
Another great video thanks again 👍
That looks awesome!!
Seems like I need to buy some tools to make them!!
Thanks 🙏🏽
With the exception of soldering gun/iron and supplies, and possibly hobby vise, most of the required tools are same ones used for most modelling applications so tool outlay shouldn't be that bad.
FANTASTIC!
You're right that some kits don't include shocks. It does make you wonder, when they say 250 parts in a kit, they mean it. And no more! But is the way to correct that.
I hadn't thought about the exact parts count before, maybe that's why Ertl's Transtar 4300 lacks a steering shaft from cab to steering box!
Looking at instruction sheets for a variety of kits it is quite interesting to see how some have the majority of parts for some systems like the air brakes (tanks, valves, front and rear brake chambers etc.) and others only have the tanks and brake chambers.
Thanks for sharing. Just what I was looking for. A friend's Dad had a 66 Red Impala 4 door pillared car growing up, her dad replaced shocks with truck ones lol I'm buliding in 1/25 scale as a memorial to her Dad & car! Any tips I should follow? Thanks
/Rosemary
Building a 1/25 replica is a great tribute. Basic process for building shock absorbers is similar whether for car or truck, material sizes might be slightly smaller for car (you can use the kit shocks as a guide to general size).
Google search for ‘66 Impala shock absorbers shows rear shocks like the ones built for this fire truck project with eyes top and bottom, front shocks look even easier to built as they have an eye at the top, bottom of piston is threaded and presumably attaches to lower control arm.
I never thought about contrasting colors helping assembly with fabbed parts, great idea! Who/where is your black styrene coming from? Thanks for sharing
I found a package of .010" Evergreen black styrene sheets years ago at a hobby shop, Evergreen's web site does show it in the range of thicknesses from .010" up to .080".
One package of the .010" in 6" x 12" size has four sheets, enough to supply modelling needs for quite some time!
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 Thanks again!
😎👍🏻
What tool do you use to punch the discs from the styrene sheet?
I use Micro-Mark's "Micro Punch Set", item # 83513 on their web site. 9 punches from 1.0 mm (0.039 inch) to 5.0 mm (0.197 inch) diameter in 0.5 mm (0.0197 inch) increments. A small soft faced mallet is also a good ide to use with it to avoid damaging end of punch over time.
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 Thanks for the info.