These vids have inspired me to begin using brass/aluminum materials in my builds. Had never thought to venture down that path before. Thanks for taking the time to do these, and please keep them coming!
Thank you for the feedback, great to hear that you can put some of the ideas to use. Some applications of brass aluminum have evolved for me over the course of a decade or so, with mirrors being an example. .030” styrene rod was used on several sets of truck mirrors and was easy to work with from an assembly point of view (flattening ends, drilling holes and gluing together vs. soldering) but forming curved and especially 90 degree bends was difficult, and the finished mirror was very delicate. .032” brass wire is what I currently use and is certainly more difficult to flatten ends on and drill, but assembly by soldering actually goes fairly easily and resulting mirrors are stronger. In the end my choice of materials comes down to which one works best for the application. Aluminum tube is easier to cut than brass and polishes well but of course doesn’t solder. Styrene tube has a heavier wall thickness, offsetting this is the ease of attachment to kit parts. All are better than kit parts for many round items as there is no parting line to remove.
You have some of the best tutorials to be found. These videos will keep getting hits as new people find you. They'll wind up going thru the whole library. Thanks for sharing
Thank you, funny thing is that the model truck topics were a bit of an afterthought when channel was initially created! Will still make and upload videos related to horses, trailering etc. of course however the model truck detail items are fun to do and also provide me with motivation to make progress on the various projects on the bench, even if only a little bit at a time.
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 I never mind when someone has other real life subjects mixed in. Adds to it far as I'm concerned... even if you started with that (horses trailering etc) in mind my guess is the trucks will takeover in views.
Those small detail items can be a lot of fun to create, I think one reason I like to add them is seeing them up close on 1:1 trucks I have driven at previous jobs.
I had a head injury. Haven't been able to get out and do what I'd like to. Figured model building would keep the mind sharp. Some of you do some amazing work on RUclips. Being I'm seeing double, I'll keep to the simple kits.for.now. But this is some Oh Mazin stuff
What a great tutorial episode. Your various rigs look amazing (and that's just from from the rear frame angle). I also noticed the double mud flap or mud flap for each axle on the Labatte assembly. Very interesting set-up.
The double mud flaps are unusual, and true to the 1:1 truck! In an unusual turn of events, I was able to speak with the fellow who drove the actual truck when employed by Labatt's. That connection came about as he was related to a fellow who was president of Great Lakes Truck Club of which I was a member at time that model was built. He gave me information about the interior colour, engine (Cummins) and other interesting detail items including the double mud flaps which apparently helped prevent "tire poppers" like nails, screws or other debris being thrown up by lead axle tires and causing flats on the rear axle ones. Because this truck had the wide drive axle spacing of 72" this makes some sense as it is a long way between the two sets of tires. I actually gave the completed model to him a year or two after it was completed, the real fun is of course in the building, it had made it to a few model car/truck shows as a completed rig and in the end I think it is better displayed in his home than in my collection.
I didn't realize that, and I even built a General kit some years ago! Interesting to see how much variation there was between AMT's kits in terms of many of the small details that were included, I recall the General as being one of the most complete for brake chambers and valves as an example, compared to the Kenworth W925 and K123 kits with brake chambers and air tanks only, no brake valves (or even front brakes although that was a legitimate spec if a 1:1 truck buyer wanted it up until around the late 1970's)
Thank you, the still photos with narration format does seem to work fairly well for this sort of presentation. And in progress photos are nice to have for future reference as well.
This was a completely awesome video and I can't tell you how much I appreciated the tips here thanks again. 🙂Thomas 0ver at The Model Hobbyist Thumbs up #3
You're welcome - glad there was information you found helpful. I will post another mud flap video in the near future with a couple other options using kit parts and styrene strip, as sometimes the brass and soldering approach may not be feasible. (For example, supply chain issues. I picked up what I could of the K&S square bar and 1/64" x 3/32" strip when I saw it a few years ago at different hobby shops, unfortunately it doesn't seem to be listed on the K&S web site currently.)
Plaskit (Daniel Gailloux) from Quebec makes excellent resin glad hands, both separate (“unconnected”) and as a connected pair. He also casts the electrical plug for trailers. I’ve used both kit-supplied air hose material and insulation from small black stranded wire for straight hoses, and either coloured small gauge (solid) wire or .032” diameter solder to make the coiled type often seen these days. The solid wire is available in red, blue, green and yellow which matches the typical colours on 1:1 trucks. I did make simplified glad hands from brass tube for an AMT trailer some time ago, will look in the archives for pictures.
That is something I have not done, a long time ago (10 years or so) I did take some photos of a Mack DMM mixer, it had a separate steering box for each front axle. I don’t remember if there was also mechanical linkage between the two axles as well to synchronize steering.
@@barryrae9355 Those are Italeri kit wheels although I'm not certain exactly which kit they are from. I believe it was their "US Wrecker Truck" Ford LTL 9000 as I used that kit's "Cummins" engine for the 378. Lug nut covers were made from Plastruct .060" styrene hex rod, finish is Alclad chrome.
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These vids have inspired me to begin using brass/aluminum materials in my builds. Had never thought to venture down that path before. Thanks for taking the time to do these, and please keep them coming!
Thank you for the feedback, great to hear that you can put some of the ideas to use.
Some applications of brass aluminum have evolved for me over the course of a decade or so, with mirrors being an example. .030” styrene rod was used on several sets of truck mirrors and was easy to work with from an assembly point of view (flattening ends, drilling holes and gluing together vs. soldering) but forming curved and especially 90 degree bends was difficult, and the finished mirror was very delicate.
.032” brass wire is what I currently use and is certainly more difficult to flatten ends on and drill, but assembly by soldering actually goes fairly easily and resulting mirrors are stronger.
In the end my choice of materials comes down to which one works best for the application. Aluminum tube is easier to cut than brass and polishes well but of course doesn’t solder. Styrene tube has a heavier wall thickness, offsetting this is the ease of attachment to kit parts. All are better than kit parts for many round items as there is no parting line to remove.
You have some of the best tutorials to be found. These videos will keep getting hits as new people find you. They'll wind up going thru the whole library. Thanks for sharing
Thank you, funny thing is that the model truck topics were a bit of an afterthought when channel was initially created! Will still make and upload videos related to horses, trailering etc. of course however the model truck detail items are fun to do and also provide me with motivation to make progress on the various projects on the bench, even if only a little bit at a time.
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 I never mind when someone has other real life subjects mixed in. Adds to it far as I'm concerned... even if you started with that (horses trailering etc) in mind my guess is the trucks will takeover in views.
Your work is always the best! Great real photos for examples. Good variety of mudflap types & finishes! Nice decal work too!
Ink jet printer decals do have some limitations due to the ink not being very opaque but on a white surface they work great!
Love your tutorials. I may never get to that level of detail, but your skills are impressive!
Those small detail items can be a lot of fun to create, I think one reason I like to add them is seeing them up close on 1:1 trucks I have driven at previous jobs.
I had a head injury. Haven't been able to get out and do what I'd like to. Figured model building would keep the mind sharp. Some of you do some amazing work on RUclips. Being I'm seeing double, I'll keep to the simple kits.for.now. But this is some Oh Mazin stuff
What a great tutorial episode. Your various rigs look amazing (and that's just from from the rear frame angle).
I also noticed the double mud flap or mud flap for each axle on the Labatte assembly. Very interesting set-up.
The double mud flaps are unusual, and true to the 1:1 truck! In an unusual turn of events, I was able to speak with the fellow who drove the actual truck when employed by Labatt's. That connection came about as he was related to a fellow who was president of Great Lakes Truck Club of which I was a member at time that model was built. He gave me information about the interior colour, engine (Cummins) and other interesting detail items including the double mud flaps which apparently helped prevent "tire poppers" like nails, screws or other debris being thrown up by lead axle tires and causing flats on the rear axle ones. Because this truck had the wide drive axle spacing of 72" this makes some sense as it is a long way between the two sets of tires.
I actually gave the completed model to him a year or two after it was completed, the real fun is of course in the building, it had made it to a few model car/truck shows as a completed rig and in the end I think it is better displayed in his home than in my collection.
The gmc general by amt ertle actually had this style of molded in mud flap hanger! Only kit I have seen it on
I didn't realize that, and I even built a General kit some years ago! Interesting to see how much variation there was between AMT's kits in terms of many of the small details that were included, I recall the General as being one of the most complete for brake chambers and valves as an example, compared to the Kenworth W925 and K123 kits with brake chambers and air tanks only, no brake valves (or even front brakes although that was a legitimate spec if a 1:1 truck buyer wanted it up until around the late 1970's)
FANTASTIC!!!
Nicely done great tutorial
Thank you, the still photos with narration format does seem to work fairly well for this sort of presentation. And in progress photos are nice to have for future reference as well.
This was a completely awesome video and I can't tell you how much I appreciated the tips here thanks again. 🙂Thomas 0ver at The Model Hobbyist Thumbs up #3
You're welcome - glad there was information you found helpful. I will post another mud flap video in the near future with a couple other options using kit parts and styrene strip, as sometimes the brass and soldering approach may not be feasible. (For example, supply chain issues. I picked up what I could of the K&S square bar and 1/64" x 3/32" strip when I saw it a few years ago at different hobby shops, unfortunately it doesn't seem to be listed on the K&S web site currently.)
Looks cool.
Thank you - probably one of the most mundane parts on a real truck but also a highly visible one, it was fun to create 1/25 versions.
Great video I'm having a hard time finding glad hands and air lines any suggestions of who might sell these?or how I could make some
Plaskit (Daniel Gailloux) from Quebec makes excellent resin glad hands, both separate (“unconnected”) and as a connected pair. He also casts the electrical plug for trailers.
I’ve used both kit-supplied air hose material and insulation from small black stranded wire for straight hoses, and either coloured small gauge (solid) wire or .032” diameter solder to make the coiled type often seen these days. The solid wire is available in red, blue, green and yellow which matches the typical colours on 1:1 trucks.
I did make simplified glad hands from brass tube for an AMT trailer some time ago, will look in the archives for pictures.
Thanks for the information 👍
Have you ever built a tandem steer system
That is something I have not done, a long time ago (10 years or so) I did take some photos of a Mack DMM mixer, it had a separate steering box for each front axle. I don’t remember if there was also mechanical linkage between the two axles as well to synchronize steering.
Where did the wheels come from on the lab
That's labatts truck
@@barryrae9355 Those are Italeri kit wheels although I'm not certain exactly which kit they are from. I believe it was their "US Wrecker Truck" Ford LTL 9000 as I used that kit's "Cummins" engine for the 378. Lug nut covers were made from Plastruct .060" styrene hex rod, finish is Alclad chrome.
Cool and thanks