Hi, actual professional gunsmith here. Cold blue most certainly isn't perfect and not nearly as good as hot or immersion bluing, however, this was not applied properly and and not cured properly. This is not a test that shows the true potential of any of these products. The fact that they were left for so long in acids makes this test completely useless. Of course things degrade in vinegar. Use bed liner or a product made for automobiles specifically. That being said, guns that have parts that I've applied cold blue to (costumers needed a touch up but didn't want to spend hot bluing money) have lasted for years on duck hunting shotguns. Also not a test in good faith since auto parts are the last thing you should be applying this to. Use it where it's meant to be, on small parts that can be maintained regularly or need a patina and not on your truck.
Well first of all Chemically speaking I'm not positive there's much of a difference between the bluing acid and the acidic rust stop/proofing. Most don't know but that process (cold bluing) is generally a nitric acid solution of some sort. It's nitrate salts used in hot bluing baths. Rusting is oxidation aka burning, yes burning is rapid oxidation, the best solution for rapid rusting is Hydrogen peroxide, aka H2O2, or DiHydrogen DiOxide, properly named, if you want that to go even quicker, add energy, like heat. Vinegar is, as we know, a weak acid, C2H4O2 (acetic acid) an organic compound. Muriatic Acid, properly named Hydrochloric Acid is HCl, mix that properly, (complete molar reaction), with NaOH, Sodium Hydroxide and you're left with NaCl, (table salt), and H2O, which everyone should know is of course pure water. The baking soda, (Sodium Bicarbonate), NaHCO3 with the HCl yields NaCl, Sodium Chloride (table salt), + CO2, (Carbon Dioxide Gas) + H2O, again, water. Everyone should take basic chemistry, you would stop buying little jugs of gas line antifreeze and just buy Methyl Hydrate and lock deicer and just pay way less for way more Isopropyl Alcohol. Same goes for acid etching or bluing of metals. FYI, if your drain pipes are ABS, a little hydrochloric acid isn't going to hurt them, the stuff in your liquid Drano is pretty damn acidic corrosive. If your drain pipes are still cast iron, well, you should probably consider changing them out soon anyways.
I am not convinced that testing with vinegar is an entirely fair test. For your purpose you wanted the most durable coating to withstand outdoor abuses, so this test was probably good for you. My issue is that I believe Chassis Black will change the dimensions of the metal. For bolts this won't matter much, but for precision metal parts it could be disastrous. Cold Blue with oil does not change the dimensions by any appreciable amount, and helps greatly to protect from rust in many applications. Also, with Cold Blue, multiple coats are recommended which you did not use. I tend to use 3 to 5 coats, and generally its the color that I use to determines how many coats. I sometimes use Nickel plating (Copper then Nickel) for parts when cold blue is not particularly effective or when the dark color is not desired.
Totally fair. If you're coating a machined tool that you'll keep in the shop and oil occasionally, cold bluing does great (and it looks good). Lots of car-people, however are always looking for a not-shiny solution for their fasteners and I was wondering how it might hold up on a chassis bolt where conditions, especially in the upper midwest, suck for metal.
Not really a valid test when you rapid rust them in an acid solution that likely eats protective coatings, after all, you removed the zinc in the first place using an acid.
It's the nature of accelerated testing I could have put them on a truck and driven it for 40 years, but I'm not sure RUclips or I would even be around for the reveal.
Hi, actual professional gunsmith here. Cold blue most certainly isn't perfect and not nearly as good as hot or immersion bluing, however, this was not applied properly and and not cured properly. This is not a test that shows the true potential of any of these products. The fact that they were left for so long in acids makes this test completely useless. Of course things degrade in vinegar. Use bed liner or a product made for automobiles specifically.
That being said, guns that have parts that I've applied cold blue to (costumers needed a touch up but didn't want to spend hot bluing money) have lasted for years on duck hunting shotguns. Also not a test in good faith since auto parts are the last thing you should be applying this to. Use it where it's meant to be, on small parts that can be maintained regularly or need a patina and not on your truck.
Well first of all Chemically speaking I'm not positive there's much of a difference between the bluing acid and the acidic rust stop/proofing. Most don't know but that process (cold bluing) is generally a nitric acid solution of some sort. It's nitrate salts used in hot bluing baths. Rusting is oxidation aka burning, yes burning is rapid oxidation, the best solution for rapid rusting is Hydrogen peroxide, aka H2O2, or DiHydrogen DiOxide, properly named, if you want that to go even quicker, add energy, like heat. Vinegar is, as we know, a weak acid, C2H4O2 (acetic acid) an organic compound. Muriatic Acid, properly named Hydrochloric Acid is HCl, mix that properly, (complete molar reaction), with NaOH, Sodium Hydroxide and you're left with NaCl, (table salt), and H2O, which everyone should know is of course pure water. The baking soda, (Sodium Bicarbonate), NaHCO3 with the HCl yields NaCl, Sodium Chloride (table salt), + CO2, (Carbon Dioxide Gas) + H2O, again, water. Everyone should take basic chemistry, you would stop buying little jugs of gas line antifreeze and just buy Methyl Hydrate and lock deicer and just pay way less for way more Isopropyl Alcohol. Same goes for acid etching or bluing of metals. FYI, if your drain pipes are ABS, a little hydrochloric acid isn't going to hurt them, the stuff in your liquid Drano is pretty damn acidic corrosive. If your drain pipes are still cast iron, well, you should probably consider changing them out soon anyways.
I am not convinced that testing with vinegar is an entirely fair test. For your purpose you wanted the most durable coating to withstand outdoor abuses, so this test was probably good for you.
My issue is that I believe Chassis Black will change the dimensions of the metal. For bolts this won't matter much, but for precision metal parts it could be disastrous. Cold Blue with oil does not change the dimensions by any appreciable amount, and helps greatly to protect from rust in many applications. Also, with Cold Blue, multiple coats are recommended which you did not use. I tend to use 3 to 5 coats, and generally its the color that I use to determines how many coats. I sometimes use Nickel plating (Copper then Nickel) for parts when cold blue is not particularly effective or when the dark color is not desired.
Totally fair. If you're coating a machined tool that you'll keep in the shop and oil occasionally, cold bluing does great (and it looks good). Lots of car-people, however are always looking for a not-shiny solution for their fasteners and I was wondering how it might hold up on a chassis bolt where conditions, especially in the upper midwest, suck for metal.
@@YoshimoshiGarage I'm glad I saw your video. My trailer is rusting all over, and cold blue is a rotten option. :)
Man I'm thinking about bluing my jeep bumpers. Never seen that and the patina after some years would be awesome
Excellent test.... Im painting them !
I just open a can of anti-seize in the garage, and suddenly everything within 100 feet has a coating of the stuff.
It's just as magical in my garage. It gets on absolutely everything.
Not really a valid test when you rapid rust them in an acid solution that likely eats protective coatings, after all, you removed the zinc in the first place using an acid.
It's the nature of accelerated testing I could have put them on a truck and driven it for 40 years, but I'm not sure RUclips or I would even be around for the reveal.
@@YoshimoshiGarage 😂
Too many samples, would be great to have it labeled
Nothing was ever applied properly
No
This is far from a good test first off dunking them in acid should never been done this was a crap test