Easy Plastic Reconstruction and Repair
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2019
- Using Super Glue and Baking Soda you can easily rebuild broken plastic!
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Here are the two other videos I showed "
Flip Clock Tile Repair: • Flip Clock Restoration...
2007 Video Demonstration: • Superglue & Baking Soda
This process worked so well I want to go around finding all my broken devices and give this a try on them. I would love to see what other people come up with for this.
Playlists of more stuff like this:
Repairs: • Repair
Other Links
RUclips: / akbkuku
Github: github.com/AkBKukU
Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/AkBKukU
Patreon: / akbkuku
Discord: / discord 
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On those sections where you were basically trying to recreate a missing tab and you have a good example to use, you can press the object into modeling clay to make an impression and then fill the impression with your process to build the part. Once you have it built, take it out of your mold, clean it well and use your process to put the new part into position. Also, small sanding blocks on the flatter parts might be more practical and give more even results. Great video, by the way.
Love this idea!
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I tried this method but this process won't work as well as building a new part on the surface of broken one because the joint would be very weak.
I am a mold maker and use superglue a lot. I get a superglue kit, some kind of German brand of glue, but the kit comes with powered aluminum. I use the powdered aluminum in the same way you're using baking soda here. I also use the accelerator to make the glue dry really fast.
I often use PVC glue (used in plumbing for joining PVC pipes) for plastic repairs. It is basically liquid PVC plastic in a solvent that quickly evaporates, which gives you some time to shape things. It works great as a filler & for small repairs, but sometimes the bond strength is not enough. This super glue + baking soda method looks great for adding strength, thanks!
Thank you very much for your very clear (and enthusiastic!) demonstration of this technique, which I had never heard of before. Using it just as you described, today I managed to successfully complete an otherwise "impossible" repair on my wife's favourite and indispensable hair dryer. She is going to be over the moon when she sees it! Thanks again, and all the best.
Yes, there is a reaction between glue and soda. CA glue is self-polymerising and contains sulfonic acid as inhibitor. To kick off the reaction, atmospheric moisture acts as spontaneous source of OH ions due to dissociation, which neutralise the acid in some spot and allow the reaction to proceed, it'll cure from there on out. Soda acts similarly as an ion source and acid inhibitor.
I do a lot of plastic repairs. Thin reinforcement on the inside with a superglue and blotter paper composite, or same with epoxy. You can also get "plastic glue" which is bog standard CA glue and a felt tip pen to use beforehand which does something to the surface of ABS and other Styrene based plastics, not sure what!
For epoxy i use UHU 1:1 epoxies personally, both 30-minute type and super durable 24-hour type, and usually i heat the parts with a hair dryer while the epoxy is setting or throw it on the hot bed of the 3d printer - curing it hot (up to about 80°C) makes it much more durable for some reason and speeds up curing, also helps kick off a reluctant mixture. The magical thing about good epoxy is that you don't necessarily get a super hard brittle material, you can vary the proportion of binder and hardener to achieve a range of mechanical properties. Adding about 20% more hardener than binder (which is actually hardener-epoxy-plastifier mix balanced such that it won't cure on its own) will match ABS plastic flexibility remarkably well, which can prevent breakage in the future. But adding more hardener makes it more difficult to cure, which is where heat comes in. You can also tint it in a million ways for seamless repairs.
Another useful tool is two-part kneading silicone. Usually either a broken off part or a symmetrical similar part is present, which can be thus copied over by making a mould in minutes.
I've used the plastic epoxy to repair broken plastic gear teeth a few times, a bit tedious.
Going from this video it seems like the soda and super glue method the next time I have to fix a gear.
@@madmax2069 If you're unlucky and are repairing a POM or PA gear, no adhesive holds on to these extremely very common gear materials permanently, not CA, not epoxy. Those need to be moulded and replacements cast - for example from epoxy.
Using CA or CA-soda composite for gear teeth is not recommended because it's higher friction and less abrasion resistant than epoxy. It may work under sufficiently low loads and it might not even matter, its adhesion properties aren't usually too different from epoxy, but it's worth keeping in mind.
I know this might be asking too much but it would be great if you could make a video about this. I promis to like and share :-)
Would be helpful if you state the brands of the materials you mention. and where to buy them.
@@maxcarter3413 I used the earbulb syringe often in Neonatal ICU, And it can work well as a powder injectors. Try earbulb Syringes from the pharmacy! That "tool" he could not name.
17:45 I fixed a small plastic piece like that by carefully pushing tiny metal staples, which I heated up with a soldering iron, into it along the split (after gluing it as well). It holds up really well under stress so far (it was broken around a screw hole).
The metal basically acts like rebar in concrete and it can make the piece stronger than before. I got this idea from Matthias Wandel here on RUclips when he fixed plastic pieces by melting wires into them.
I've re-built exploded corners of casings, using tape as a mold and they have lasted beautifully even on instruments that get dropped a lot.
I normally pre-mix the glue and baking soda for better uniformity and less fiddling. You can go up to 50-50, but the more baking soda you put, the faster you have to work and the stronger it gets.
This is the first time I see this dipping technique, I might have to try that sometime.
Heat up a pin, and push it into the plastic first, but to length, then build superglue/baking soda around it. It is the best way, and becomes pretty much unbreakable
'Micro-rebar'. I had been doing this with toys and attempting such plastic repairs since childhood, although I never had knowledge of the 'CyA + baking soda' method. Would have been soooooo helpful back then...
I very much like this idea!
Yup it works beautifully!! Strong hold use it for repairing plastic totes!
Ooh!! Thank you! It just seems so obvious once you hear it.
That's a fucking fantastic idea!
you should have called it "analog 3d printing"
Lol
You should have capitalized and used a period in your comment.
@@thomas4844 The 4th Reich is over. Chill out grammar Nazi.
Handcraft printing solids.
Oh, Sorry, but I gotta tell you, that those bumps were far too small to be anallog! There were definitely not that!. and believe me I should know! ;). 30-print what you want but really? Some printing filaments should best be left on the store shelf to en-dust and become dust bunnies. And that filthy filament is definily one that will go down for being grossest ever!1. J/k….;)
The technique looks quite interesting, but I have to add some thoughts here!
1. For extra mechanical strength you can glue metal rods (for these small repairs something like a paperclip should be good) into it
2. Maybe consider some prep, some sanding and a quick clean to get rid of any oils should really help strengthen the bond
3. I think acrylic (speaking about the 2k powder + liquid stuff) that's used for fake nail forming is a much better way of doing this!
It shares many properties with the superglue method as it is really easy to work with, gets rock solid, is durable and cheaply/ readily available.
Additionally, it has two really great advantages, it has a high viscosity therefor is malleable in any direction (after all that's what it's made for), so you don't have to work with/ against gravity, can even be shaped it into tight corners/ bends, and secondly it's available in pretty much any color (you can even mix your own colors and there are thousands of finishes/ top coats available too) which makes it much less noticeable on visible repairs.
Can You give any product example for the 3 point? It sounds interesting
@@Ahnii alright I found the powder, and what about the liquid? Is it part of the set or should i use the Super Glue?
@@Drax658 Superglue likely could also harden it but it probably won't be malleable (my guess given the chemistry, never tried it). If you want it to behave as I said you need to use acrylic powder AND liquid (that's the activator).
@@Ahnii thank You very much! 🙂
Better still go to an RC hobby shop and buy a thin carbon fiber rod. It's stronger than steel and epoxy or crazy glue bonds strongly to it.
I use this method in model making but some differences I use are to apply the baking soda first and then let thin CA seep into it. Also sanding the surface prior helps with adhesion and cocktail sticks are very useful too.
For extra tensile strength you can also use cotton swab fibers + super glue
Hell yeah, anything works, I actually used a lot toilet paper + super glue😁
I got the cotton wool + super glue trick from Adam Savage... Works a charm
@@guily6669 ive used paper towels and super glue before, and ive seen people use dental floss as well. anything does infact seem to work
Just to tag on I have a crank type pencil sharpener I use whenever I need a good filler material. Sometimes I mix in some baking soda to the graphite and wood dust, but it doesn't need the baking soda.
22:45 you might in the future want to use aluminium foil to build a mould to tower it up so you can have gaps in between. Just fill the foil in between to create a gaps, something like a partition.
Nice to see this tip get some attention. I once used this technique to reconstruct a plastic headlight bucket for a 70s moped. The entire latching surface inside to hold the front to the back was missing... made the whole thing using this method with some dollar store modelling clay to form a crude mold!
Side note: Regarding musical instruments, this trick is common amongst luthiers, as a way of repairing/gap filling in the bone/ivory string nuts.
Pianotuners use it to tighten the holes of the pinblock in which the tuning pins are drilled (the strings are attached to the tuning pins). Previously, they used to replace the pins by simply putting bigger pins in the holes, which is not an elegant solution.
Great video Sir!!! I've heard stories of people using this technique to replace tooth fillings.
Yikes, I would not do that. People are often allergic to cyanoacrylate (super glue). The allergy can spontaneously develop at any time in someone's lifetime, just like a latex or cockroach allergy. It would really suck to have CA tooth fillings and then develop the allergy, after which one would experience a painful rash in their mouth and possibly esophageal rash and gastritis too. 😳😳😳
Edit: Furthermore, mouths are very well colonized by bacteria that secrete acid which is more than powerful enough to eat our teeth. Our enamel is resilient and resists the acid pretty well, but the inner material, dentin, is not resilient. If someone has a filling fall out, and they just pack the hole with CA and baking soda, they WILL end up with a horrific abscess in that tooth because the bacteria were locked inside of the dentin and ate right into the pulp chamber to infect it. Dentists flush filling and root canal holes with bleach VERY THOROUGHLY along with agitating it with ultrasonic tips to break up biofilm and bacteria. The hole should be very highly sanitized before filling material is added.
You are a totally awesome teacher. Such clarity, and a no nonsense approach. I really appreciate learning this as I love to fix things and hate having to give up on something that otherwise works so well.
On something, such as the calculator, you should consider using methylene chloride to actually weld the two pieces together. Can also use xylol. This will actually melt each side of the plastic slightly which will allow them to molecularly bond. This essentially makes it as good as new and you won't see a future break along the same path. Sadly superglue and baking soda provides decent compressive strength, but minimal tensile strength, which the later is what causes break and fractures. You can also try adding some small fibers in the baking soda mix which will enhance the tensile strength.
so for cracked plastic cases like on the calculator, I usually vee out the backside of the crack and fill it with superglue and baking soda. it's similar to techniques getting good weld penetration in steel or aluminum.
I will note that the resulting repair is much harder than the original surrounding plastic and will immediately break if shock-loaded by dropping it or something similar.
I feel like I'd prefer to use epoxy... though I suppose either way involves mixing two things together, and can both create virtually seamless repairs in those situations. The idea of squeezing out the excess and cleaning off the surface just appeals more to me than mixing in a powder.
@Lassi Kinnunen Very true. And of course building up layers like with the monitor clasp or the clock tab is much harder with epoxy too.
Mine hasn't seemed to have air contamination in the tube though, but I can easily see how it would happen if the cap got weak or had corners cut in manufacture.
@Lassi Kinnunen Like that ever happens...
Heheheheh, "backside of the crack".
This video finally got my thump out and repaired a par of scissors with a cracked handle.
Another tip. You can wrap stuff with a layer of surgical tape and add low viscosity CA glue. The tape will absorb the glue and create a strong wrap that keeps internal force from opening cracks and brakes. It's not pretty but works great things like scissors with plastic handles, screw drivers or those plastic screw posts if they break in the half way.
Edit:
Another tip. You can fix screw holes with ruined thread by filling it with baking soda and ca glue. After filling it you can drill (and tap if you want) a new hole. As long as its not under huge loads it works great.
Thanks for the great videos!
/Bo
That was a great demonstration! Four different broken items fixed!
And if you have a Dremel, you can shape the repaired parts even more precisely.
Great video!
This is amazing. I had seen it before but never payed much attention to it thinking it was just another stupid life hack that didn't work. Now that i see it working this opens up so many possibilities for my repair projects.
That is exactly the message I wanted to get across. All the popular videos on this mostly just mix the two together and go "wow, it's hard now" rather than try and find an application for it.
This seriously changed at how I look at broken plastic now, it's not an unsolvable problem and it uses everyday household stuff. It beats the pants off of mixing epoxy for one little crack.
The same happened for me when using fine sand paper to refresh/resurface rubber electrical contacts (TV remote buttons, etc). You can just use wire glue, but I have had little long term success with it (also using foil glued to the contacts doesn't last long, maybe super glue could help). Sanding makes the rubber pads work almost like new!
The baking soda and super glue method is extremely useful, I definitely need to try it out sometime. So many uses......
*Here are some cool things I have found so far:*
- Retro lightening/brightening - Leave yellowed plastics out in the sun for a long period of time for multiple days or use hydrogen peroxide to assist
- Sanding rubber contacts - Sand the surface of rubber electrical contacts to refresh the surface. Usually just a light sanding of the surface.
- Baking soda + super glue - Apply in layers, with the most surface area for both substances mixed together for maximum effect and overall strength.
I have repaired lots of notebooks hinges support and another plastic reconstruction using a dremel tool and this technic. If you do it with some skills, ends harder than a rock.
You need to know that cianocrylathe or how it write in english, does not stick in some plastics as poliethylene, etc. They need a chemycal treatment before. In metal, the stick of cianocrylathe is minor than in compatible plastics. The problem of epoxy is the base material delamination. Superglue do any chemical reaction in compatible plastic surfaces that prevent delamination.
@@penguinsushi8442 Regarding rubber electrical contacts, doesn't sanding rub off more of the electrically conductive layer that was initially applied to it?
Here's a tip for super precise applications! Try getting a syringe with a super thick gauge removable needle tip. They sell them with like 20 gauge metal screw on tips that are not actually needles. If you fill it up with super glue or sometimes even better gell super glue, and you take advantage of accelerators, you can precisely place drops of glue and use something like aluminum foil or aluminum tape to build shapes to fill with baking powder and solidify with the glue. Peeling the foil or whatever off can be hard but it can be easier than filing in places you can't reach.
Baking soda and super glue (Zap-a-gap) are used like this extensively when building prototype sculpts for the toy industry. Often when you are cleaning parts coming out of the 3d printer they get broken and you have to either build up small areas or glue them back together so that they can be painted for paint masters or samples for shows like Toy Fair or comic-con.
It is great stuff! The baking soda cures the glue instantly.
I am dumbfounded by this video. As an architect and model builder my mind was set ablaze by this video. I am going to follow you for a long while. Great Job!!
Your Akbkuku has evolved into:
A manual baking soda and super glue 3D printer!
Akbkuku goes to sign up for a website, gets to the "I am not a robot" capcha...and begins to sweat profusely.
Could also try Sugru... a mouldable glue.
@@thedungeondelver off-topic, but I'm not convinced that your profile pic is a wizard and not a zener diode symbol where the ink got a bit smudged.
As a student mayor in product design, I was surprised that move. That is impressive. I never thought it can be done like this.
AkBKuKu : (exist
3D printer: Am I a joke to you?
Allah-o-Akbkuku xD
I watched this last night. I have an old Technics (SLB-30) turntable I purchased back in 1982. Its lid had 2 tabs that slid into a hinge to close it. You could lower it when playing an album to prevent dust from getting on your records when it played. Well, probably 1 year after purchasing it, one of the tabs broke off except a small piece that slid into the hinge, but not long enough to stay on it. I could not epoxy/glue the broken tab off. Well, after seeing this, I grabbed the lid - the broken tab long gone and went to work. I used your method of creating a puddle of CA and then dipping it into the baking soda. Of course, the thickness was about 3x the original thickness of the original tab, but I was able to trim and sand it all back to the original thickness, and even squared off the edges. Yes got carried away and the tab was about 1/4" longer than the other, so cut back on that as well. In doing this, there were a couple of small pits that I needed to fill - no problem, just added a touch of glue, sprinkled on those spots, trimmed/sanded down, and it worked like a charm! Placed the lid back on the turntable hinges, and it fit perfectly and it works like new. I'm amazed how strong the piece is and that it bonded so well! Thanks!
Been doing that for years. Good tip: like the gear/knob on the clock repair you showed, glue the two halves together first, then apply the strengthening to the back side.
Very well done. I have not seen such a simple yet effective trick before. I am sure this video of yours is going to be of help to many people struggling with irreparable parts in their arsenal.
Damn, that panasonic clock is glorious. I found a clock by a company I never heard of from germany, it was so nice, white with a green vfd.
It most definitely is! I'm not a clock collector by any means. But once I found out that was a thing I had knew I had to have one. It matches the 70s Hi-Fi stuff I have perfectly.
@@TechTangents I collect radios too, and I really like the bedside radio clocks from the 70s.
I think the radio in this is actually pretty good. It's going right next to my Pioneer SX-780 with Sansui SP-3200A speakers though so it's going to be outclassed by other options.
i love my sony DT-30.
You can apply superglue to the outside crack as well, and then scrape/sand it down. It ends up clear, and if the crack is closed well, it's pretty much invisible. Even when the cracks are big, it still makes it look less noticeable. I just did it to a very cracked NES case, and it definitely helped.
The most helpful and best demonstrated video I've come across thus-far of plastic repairing with Baking Soda/Super Glue. 👍
This worked beautifully for me on a small aquarium cover. Used it to replace a tiny tab. Also use the foil to wipe off the Super Glue container. As a result, the stuff lasts for many more uses. Thank you!!
I saw this a lot researching ABS crack and tab repair for motorcycles fairings too! For your example, on your calculator crack, they would dremel a void to then fill with powder, and then saturate with glue.
I'm among the collector community for coin operated video arcade games, I will definitely be sharing this video around!
Great video. Since I retired, I build and repair diecast cars. I have been using this trick for a few years but I had never thought of using the applicator bulb for a more controlled application of powder. That was a great idea. Right now I just use a oil paint spatula to scoop little bits of soda. I will try your trick.
I've seen a number of videos using this method, but this one shows the process better and I like that you showed multiple repairs on different objects. The last one, where the little "nipples" are too tall and hit the heat sink or RF shield or whatever is behind the hole, just take your file, or better yet a Dremel tool, and shorten the nipples so that they don't hit the obstruction. Easy peasy.
BTW, I bought a kit with some super glue and a white powder a while back for doing this kind of thing. I think I paid about $12 for that kit. Now i suspect the white powder is nothing but baking soda.
I always make my own accelerator spray with water and baking soda.
It's the chemical reaction you want to set the CA glue imidiatly.
I use it to make small fillets for extra structural support for model builds.
wow! this is the first time I've seen this type of repair... and I look back at all the fiddly things that just didn't fix with just super glue... I want a time machine now to go back and bring out the baking soda!
Works amazingly! Been doing this for years. First time i replace broken buttons on a remote. It was a bit fiddly but used a nail file to smooth it down. Suitably impressed with my handy work i continued using this method for years! I even used it to repair my husbands broken toenail after it split down the middle after dropping a breezblock on his foot. It lasted long enough for his toenail to grow out past wherd it was cracked, and it didnt look like there was anything wrong with it, to the point he was happy enough to wear his sandles on the beach. Recommended.
You may have just saved me a lot of trouble... and simultaneously spent a bunch of my time... Thanks!!!!
Oh shit, that ear syringe applicator is gold. I was trying to fix an n64 joystick with this method but the best way I could figure was to just sorta shovel powder in with the back end of some tweezers. Thanks for the tip dude.
I've had my share of plastic repairs. For items that require a strong repair, I find that superglue + some sort of fiber strand (toilet tissue, strand from cigarette butt, etc) works well. Sometimes I need to "copy" a shape, I use something like a InstaMorph to copy the shape and make a mold from a good part, then transfer to a broken part. Then, I use PMMA (two part acrylic, or dental resin) to create the new part. Works really well. However, this method sometimes doesn't work well due to the material of the original plastic: ABS works the best, PP is the worst.
Nice work! Ive got 20 such projects to do and its worth trying. Thanks so much.
This was very helpful and the ONLY video I could find to help me with what I needed to repair. Exactly what I needed. Thank you for your creativity! 🙌🏼🤙🏼
There is also micro-ballon glass "powder" as a filler which I like to use not only with epoxy, but with ca glue. It seems to instantly set the ca glue, too. If I want to add structural strength to something like the calculator case, I would use some carbon fibre. They bond very well with ca-glue and are super strong.
This was incredibly helpful thanks!
My grandparents had a clock just like this, and I inherited it from them. I haven't restored mine just yet due to my being partially blind, but I'll be waiting this when I might be able to give it a try. Thanks!
I have been on a superglue + baking soda binge, fixing things at home. We have a hand blender. A piece about 1" by 1" had broken off from its outer casing and had disappeared. I stuck a piece of plasticine on the outside over the affected part, and shaped it to give me a surface that was flush with the rest of the casing. I used the plasticine as a mould, and then did the superglue and baking soda spiel, and succeeded in getting a pretty ok looking patch.
I also had a few holes on my masonry wall that needed blanking and I needed fresh holes to be drilled there to take new screws. I stuffed cotton wool inside the holes with a toothpick, and squirted superglue inside. Success again.
I've seen the baking soda/CA glue trick used by die-cast customization/restoration and modeling guys as well
I do modeling and we have use this for a long time in the community. Works well as a body filler and reinforcing areas. I never thought to use it for this... Gray Hair syndrome I guess...LOL
Have you tried to use some clay and make a mold? put the broken side in the mold then fill the mold with the baking soda and super glue.
I am involved with installing NOS(New Old Stock) air conditioning in my 1991 Toyota Pickup (I love this truck). It is very difficult to find a good evaporator suitcase that is not busted up (28 year old trucks known for being rode hard and put away wet). I got a score at a pick and pull, but after I got to installing it I noticed one mounting ear had cracked. Thanks so much for your video, this is AMAZING! I watch your nostalgic videos all the time, since I too cut my nerd teeth on TRS80s,C64s,Atari800s, and the lot. I never expected you to help with a nostalgic automotive repair?!!! If I could give you two thumbs up I would.
I work in semiconductor industry. Similar technique can be used for ~40Ton granite precision linear stage equipment, 'to cosmetic part, in low-level clean environment'.
It is similar-cyanoacryllate liquid adhesive with fine quartz powder. Razor blade is used for layering & leveling tool.
You need a Dremel tool, then you could really shape the parts. Old hack but well executed/demonstrated
I thought that. is it strong enough to be dremelled?
@@carcophan it is but beware of the dust produced it's pretty nasty
A dremel would save countless hours of filing and if you use the right burr and the right speed it will cause less stress to the material.
I’ve had these kind of repairs come unstuck. Now I roughen the surface first to give the glue something to mechanically hold to. It also increases the surface area as the glue gets into the grooves. Thirdly the newly roughened surface has no oils to prevent the glue from sticking.
By the way, there are many different formulations of super glue. Not just the additives, but the main cyanoacrylate ester can wary somewhat (though it's not usually labeled as super glue). Besides the normal formulations, there are also hard (methyl) and flexible (octyl) specialty cyanoacrylate glues that may work as well. I imagine the glue you use would depend on the application.
Just discovering you and I’m blown away at the quality of this production! Great work sir!
I have been using this trick for 40 years. Works damn good on car bumpers. That’s where I learned it. Great video about the other uses. Also always wear rubber gloves when doing it.
You can do the same with two component epoxy to get a proper plastic. I also just file it to shape after is solidifies.
I agree for crack repair but for building height, i can see how this works a little better, you dont need to wait for epoxy to set to build layers.
Baking soda and super glue creates an acrylic.
@@samoksner And the fact that the super glue/baking soda mixture blends in perfectly with the ivory/foux ivory nut on a typical guitar neck.
@@BEdmonson85 Right? That's where I first heard of this technique, years and years ago...
if its abs plastic, you can get small abs pellets and use acetone to rebuild the part, acetone dissolves abs, then it solidifies again as the acetone diffuses away. You can also use it by putting acetone on the crack and put it together, it will become welded together....
thanks!
lego bricks too.
I came across this when needing to repair a motorbike with broken plastic. It can easily cost thousands of dollars to replace, but with this you build up missing bits, and can then spray it and it looks brand new, and just as strong. Since most computer cases of old are abs, as well as many other things like LEGO, this works as well there. :)
For ABS, styrene and many plastics that are not like nylon or Teflon where they are slick, common ABS pipe adhesive will weld them back together. It's basically MEK and toluene blended. Way back in history Radio Shack used to sell microbead plastic to do repairs like this. They called it Plastic Patch Powder. Plastex has the same stuff in red, black and clear
Good ole super glue and baking soda. I’ve used this technique to repair all sorts of things for decades especially damaged R/C planes. From what I recall, the backing soda changes the pH of the super glue which triggers the hardening. It was was originally developed to close battlefield wounds in the Vietnam as a temporary stitch. It’s the reason why all super glues will stick BETTER to your fingers than the thing you are trying to repair. The pH of skin exactly matches the trigger of the hardening process. Micro balloons work better for structural integrity and are lighter, something important when rebuilding a smashed up R/C plane. Good job demonstrating some real world examples.
I used a form of this technique back in the 80's to repair my split/broken fingernails.
I would rough up the top surface/s of the nail with a nail file, then position the dust created along the crack, apply superglue to the area. Wait a minute, then file the glued area smoother, push that dust into place, another layer of superglue, etc, until I'd built a good strong repair. Smooth well and apply polish.
Those repairs were STRONG!
you kept calling the Baking Soda Baking Powder they are different but similar. Baking soda is pure sodium bicarbonate, Baking Powder is 30% sodium bicarbonate, 5-12% monocalcium phosphate, and 21-26% sodium aluminium sulfate. so there is a difference for what you are doing Baking Soda will work not Baking Powder because the other two ingredientes will cause a reaction with the Cyanoacrylate.
I made this mistake, I wish I would have read your comment before I tried it, the fumes were horrible! And I had bicarbonate at home, but used baking powder as video said so. Do not make the same mistake!
Yes, American _baking soda_ is what we Brits, Australians, etc. would refer to as _bicarbonate of soda_ or _sodium bicarbonate_ ... or simply _bicarb._ Though _baking powder_ is somewhat similar, it has extra dry acidic ingredients to ensure that, when water is added, a reaction with the alkaline soda will create gassy bubbles to raise your cake, soda bread or whatever. Some recipes that need a raising agent use the simpler, unadulterated alkaline powder (bicarb) because the acidity required for the bubbly reaction will be provided by some other external, acidic ingredient such as buttermilk, vinegar or lemon juice.These confusions between different versions of English do cause confusion sometimes.
He said the backing soda was basically a fine powder... Which it is.
@@ronieGirl327 Nobody is saying baking soda isn't a powder. He repeatedly calls it "baking powder," as if the two terms were interchangeable. They are not.
@@kh23797 Here in Argentina we called bicarbonate of soda too. I believe it's called like that everywhere in South America.
Nope, do not challenge me. I have nearly a metric tonne of things with broken bits that I've set aside to eventually fix. If I start now, I'll never finish, no matter how satisfying it would be. :-\ Great job though. 👍
I am so thankful to you. This trick helped me fix many broken things at home.
This video was a literal lifesaver, thank you! I dropped my glasses and the frames broke, and I would've been pretty much disabled until I could get brand new ones. However, I used this trick to fix them and it worked perfectly! It's been a few weeks and they're still holding up despite me having dropped them again.
Cool now I know how to repair my xbox 360 controller that cracked from switching out the batteries so many times. Thank you for the tip.
You must be a real hardcore gamer then.
I feel like I watched a "Repair video by Kylo Ren" :). Great video!
Great video. I never knew about the reaction between glue and bicarb. Thanks for the heads-up.
Fantastic vocal delivery and very informative; Thank you!
If I had a penny for every time standard loctite super glue has saved me I could at least afford another bottle
duct tape and wd40 get all the credit but IMO super glue is the real hero
@@onometre I agree! Your finger sticks to the broken plate as never before, and the super glue bottle sticks on your finger like it was born to be there (leaving nice trail marks from the label). Been there, done both. =)
wish i could say that. i hate superglue and have bought 2 or3 bottles and never had the crap work once. i don't know what brands i bought but i have had luck with Locktite products. i just already feel like a fool for buying the ones i did and am reluctant to take another chance.
I want to add that I can’t wait now for something to break!!!!
This is great thank you for sharing, I'll give it a try in some of my own repairs
This it's actually really cool. I don't have anything that needs plastic repaired, but now I know what to do it it does need it.
Thanks.
I FIXED ALL MY TEETH!!!
(12:36) - I would've superglued the crack first, then used the baking soda / glue to strengthen on the inside.
Prior to the strengthening part of the job, I would remove a v-shaped groove / channel along the line of the crack, (on the inside of course using a Dremel), which would then be filled in with the glue / baking soda composite.
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I repaired an AST Premium 2 computer case front cover about a year ago with this same method. The front cover had several big cracks through it, and even a piece completely broken off. I did need to paint it all when I was done, but I'm very happy with the final result.
You do a really nice presentation. Easy to watch and listen to.
Nice. You can melt some plastics back together with acetone. Works on C64 case pillars ;)
The super glue and baking soda is a chemical reaction. It is slightly exothermic, and technically your creating an acrylic.
Pretty cool demonstration. Thanks for the idea. For some of the plastic parts, though, I like to use Plastic Weld (I think that's the name). It basically melts the plastic and forms a new bond. The plastic will be just as strong as it was before it broke. I found it works really well with Lego parts.
Been using this in model building for decades. There are now a few new materials like epoxy putty I use instead for some situations, but there is still a bottle of super glue and a jar of baking soda in my supply kit.
An awful lot of plastic housings are ABS, which dissolves in Acetone. I'm told that the ABS Cement from the plumbing section of home improvement stores is essentially just ABS in an Acetone solvent. Sure enough, I've used it to make repairs on the inside of many cracked ABS parts. Because you are actually adding ABS on the inside it can often be stronger then the original. lf the calculator or clock gear is ABS then ABS Cement could work even better! It's more difficult to work with though since you aren't going to find any precision applicator. I like to get a blob on a toothpick and drop it into stripped screw holes on ABS plastic enclosures. Works great!
I beg to differ. You can get hobby syringes with blunt needle tips and with a bit of a steady hand you can get pretty darn precise drop size and placement. The other option is the soft LDPE precision tip squeeze bottles. These things only cost about 5 - 10 USD for two up to several of them and I have used them with Acetone and a couple other solvents.
If you use a razor blade to clean up the baking soda, it wouldn't look out of place in the 80s.
lol... I'm not the only one thinking I'm watching cocaine lines lol
Something about Scarface and Debbie Harry's Rush Rush...
Oddly enough, that is how we built our balsa wood models, back in the 80s.
Thought the same when I saw it in a bag 🤣🤣🤣
I was repairing an engine block from a late 80's/ early 90's muscle car once, with super glue and a similar bag of baking soda, when a friend of mine walked in and asked what I was doing. I told him I was repairing a car engine with some super glue and white powder. When he asked what kind of powder, I casually said: Dun know, I found it behind the dashboard. The look on his face was priceless. XD
I repaired my Commodore monitor cover by simple filing down one side, then using expoxy to stick a metal washer to it then cutting through the centre with my Dremel. I did both sides as a precaution to the other side breaking.....that was over twenty five years ago and the repair is still perfect. I think the washer fix in this case is by far the better solution.
For the calculator you could have used UV fix Liquid Plastic Welding or resin.
The clock repair too is an easy washer + epoxy fix.
The blanking plate solution is a little more complex. You cut off what remains of the legs then find two plastic walls plugs and two screw that are a push fit in to the plugs. Trim the plugs and fit them into the original holes and then exopy the two screws where the plastic legs were!! Trim the plugs and screw s to suit the blind hole.
Anything can be fixed in my experience but I am retired and have a lot of time on my hands. My grandchildrens mantra is 'grandad will fix it' and I haven't failed them yet....fingers crossed.
I was brought up in days of true austerity so you did not throw things away or buy new, you repaired what you had. I have abiding memories of my dad working away on his shoe last putting new soles and heels on the families shoes. To this day my cellar workshop is full of salvaged bits and pieces that I know will get used one day and some now increasing in value such as my old computers which have suddenly become collectable.
I use synthetic cloth mesh for flat surfaces and it works excellently. Baking soda is great to refill missing parts
I fix most cracks with acetone (hope there is no misunderstanding XD) :)
Me too. I use some model-makers plastic weld, but it's basically the same stuff. Any plastic in the styrene family including abs, which most of the plastics were in this video.
@Lassi Kinnunen Only if we use ABS filament. It doesnt work well with PLA or PETG
@Howard Black My question is always how I'm supposed to know what sort of plastic the thing I'm looking at it made of. Most glues (including super glue) say they don't work on polyethylene or polypropylene. A clear plastic swinging cover on the meat drawer of our fridge broke one of its little hinge pin arms (not sure how to describe it). I repaired it once by attaching a tiny piece of sheet metal along its side with glue that supposedly works on all materials including PE and PP - it held for a couple weeks and then came apart again. Next I reinforced around the whole thing with expensive stuff called Bondic that solidifies under UV light (not a glue, as it doesn't stick to anything but itself, but it's strong) - that lasted a few months, but it broke again recently. Not sure what to try next - I'm sure the temperature makes it more difficult.
As for "good 'ol pipe cement", I didn't realize that would work on anything except PVC. It's magic on PVC, but I never tried it on anything else. Glue is never as strong as the original material, but cemented PVC is as if it had always been a single piece.
Use thin viscosity CA glue with baking soda... then you can "drip" it in to the baking soda. The loctite glue is a thick gel, which is not really well suited for these types of repairs.
As an old geezer myself, loving diy, especially repairs, very fun to watch video.. an I learned something! 👍👍 Thanks!😁
A tip I found with plastics is to drill both pieces with a fine drill with a Dremel & fix a small panel pin between them with Epoxy Resin, it makes the bond stronger than before as you have Reinforced it with the panel pin, if the pieces are longer you can place a few panel pins along both pieces, i drill & fix the pins on one side first & place them together to mark the joining part for drilling by scratching the other side for drilling.
Dude, you actually discovered a prehistoric form of 3D printing...
You need a Dremmel tool for shaping the fixed parts.
Or a dental drill. Using files is so lame!
@@Rattlerjake1 No, using files is using what you have when you don't have what you want, like using super glue and baking soda instead of the right replacement part.
@Duncan McOkiner yes
Maybe?
@@85jvia Indubitably.
Glad you commented "derived from music instruments". It's exactly how I learned this. Either sawdust or baking soda.
I really like the multiple examples!
Put the baking soda on first, then wet it with super glue, prevents the "it burst when I touched it" problem.
That would for sure. That problem only happened when I applied too much super glue and it was wicking up the sides of the plastic making it really thick. I don't know how well the baking soda is penetrating when I put it on the super glue but it seems really solid. On some of the other parts I tried to burst them and couldn't. So I think as long as you keep it thinner you will be fine.
If you put soda first, it does not stick same. You need first add superglue, not too much. Superglue creates a quimical reaction in some plastics and the adherence is superior by this. You need to add some superglue, wait a few seconds, then add a thin coat of soda, wait, compress it, add another layer of superglue, add soda, wait, compress, and so on a few times until you rechargue the piece. Then sit for a few minutes or hours and dremel it. This way i used to notebook hinges support repair with more strenght that original.
Another trick is use strips of toliet paper, but always you need to put superglue at first layer to react with plastic. If, not, it would be delaminated from the base. With toilet paper you need to compress every layer and is a bit more difficult when you have done a few layers before. Its so tricky but it works. Sorry my english.
Anyways you need to dremel first, chamfer the crack and then rechargue it.
@@juanjosprint I've done this TP trick a couple of times on a laptop LCD bezel too. Keeps the surface pretty flat while also adding some additional support, but only in cases where there's just a hair of space to work with. With older models which are not so thin i apply a strip of flexible fabric/band-aid typo thing that comes in a roll bought from a farmacy and then submerge it in glue. After that I even cover with hot glue for added support. Just wait for the glue to cure, because when u mix them while still wet, you get some pretty intense fumes that make you feel like you just popped some shots of alcohol xD
Saw dust and super glue also forms a resin like amalgamation
I saw a product exactly like this at an auto parts store. It was going for $20.00 and you got very little powder so you could only fix a two or three items. This is amazing!!!
Great job, excellent diction, you are a natural speaker, thank you!
Two words for ya. “Dremel tool” 😝
Lol I made same comment then read yours later
just out of curiosity= isn't there an english word for this tool other than the brandname?
in german its called something like fineDrillgrinder(small) or Straightgrinder(large)
@@hyperhektor7733 Sometimes they're called rotary tools. Larger ones are called die grinders.
@@scarabeetle101 ty
LOL that little bulb thing that you don’t know the use of is a snot sucker for babies (called a bulb syringe) babies haven’t learned to blow their nose yet and babies blowing snot bubbles out their nose is not cute.
The bulb is for baby snots and for de-waxing your ears. This one is baby blue, so it is probably not the one that comes with the ear de-waxing kits and is more for baby snots. The ones that come with the de-waxing kits are dark green.
I was wondering if it's that, I believe we've had one of those at home.
Definitely baby snots.
It will also blow dust from camera lenses.
Nope, mine which came with the dewaxing tool is baby blue.... Don't know who cares, but I like to add it 😉😂
I've got an old travel clock with a plastic body that'd fractured - and I only found out after taking off the outer shell and having it crumble in my hands! Thanks for showing me this technique, I think it will work perfectly for my project too :)
I used to drive old VWs, 69/70 model years and used liquid fiberglass and an old t-shirt to strengthen the floorboards. Everything bonded really well, was waterproof, and saved me the $100 per pan to have new ones welded in. Of course, this wasn't a restoration project, just a 19/20 y/o guy trying to save money back in the day :)