Stuck Caliper Slide Pin? A Quick Brake Service Tip - How To DIY
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2020
- In this video I show a tip I have used for well over a decade when servicing brake caliper slide pins, if you have an anti rattle rubber on the end of the slide / guide pin it can become swollen and stuck or jammed in position and not function correctly. This can be rectified by following these simple steps with no parts needed.
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Disclaimer:
GerardBurke is a qualified motor technician who has completed modules & courses in manual handling and all aspects of workshop safety. These videos are not intended to be used by anyone who is not trained and or qualified to carry them out.
Due to factors beyond the control of GerardBurke, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. GerardBurke assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. GerardBurke recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of GerardBurke, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not GerardBurke.
#StuckCaliperSlidePin #2MinuteQuickTip #BrakeService 
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A 2 minute video saved me a lot of time, effort and money. One of my slide pins had seized and already caused uneven brake wear and the disk to wasp due to the brake being stuck on. This saved me from trashing my new brakes and from buying a new caliper. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for posting this video! I was doing my first brake job on my 2005 Subaru Forrester and I was struggling to get the upper pin with the rubber sleeve back into the brake caliper. I tried over and over and couldn’t figure out why it’s slid out fairly easily but refused to slide back to its home position - even when cleaned and greased.
Then I watched your video and did what you suggested - just cutting a 16th of an inch off the end of the rubber sleeve. And suddenly, it slipped in so easily! What a great trick! Thank you so much!
The pin with the rubber sleeve on the pin goes on the bottom with Subaru vehicles.
It doesn't tell you how to get them out tho...
Heat gun or propane torch
Socket an breaker bar break it free then do pull it out
Make sure you you get new slide pins an lube them well
You have to manually extract them, spray in some lube as you go, it takes abit if time but it will come out.. 👍
I believe it was illustrated at 0:43 seconds into the video.
Love it mate I do all my own work on my car but I would have never thought of that at such a simple but effective way of solving the problem good job mate
Cheers Greg, I have started this series for that exact reason, sometimes I take things for granted that I have learnt along the way, I start to assume everyone knows it but then you get reminded in the workshop when helping out others.
Thanks for the comment mate, really appreciate it.
Hello Gerard, I've been using this tip on my Ford for a while. I've found too much silicon grease in the bore makes this worse. A periodic cleaning of the bore helps. Thanks for sharing our video!
Thanks for your input Papa 🙏👍👌
Great video and thank you Gerard! Having just experienced a frustrating situation with Toyota caliper brackets that use the rubber bushings on the guide pins, I wanted to share an important enhancement to your video. The inside diameter of the rubber boots is a critical dimension and if the retaining groove is not properly cleaned to remove scale and dried lubricant, the ID of the boot will be too tight and tear or push the rubber pin bushing away from the guide pin. Use a pick or pocket screwdriver to remove all contamination first before installing the boot. Coat the guide pin with silicone grease (such as AGS Syl-glyde) and the pins will push in just fine. Learned this the hard way and hope this will help others!
I have a 2001 Tacoma, this might be very useful knowledge. Thanks for sharing
This same problem happens to Motorcycles - There's a Tab on the inner housing of the caliper that holds the Pad next to the pistons, and that metal Tab was rubbing on the Rotor. Took a bit of searching to find out why, and then 2 minutes later on a car site (this video) I learned how to fix it - Thank you so much!!! :0) 2009 DL1000 V-strom Suzuki (Right side caliper)
Hey,i have a nissan Almera (pulsar) and one of the two pins is a tiny bit loose while the other one is much more stiff,do you think that's a problem or is it natural?
the nut at the end of the slide pin where the caliper bolts to. does this turn? if it does, when the caliper bolts to this slide pin it requires a wrench to hold the nut while the caliper is bolted to the slide pin? am i correct on this? thanks
Great idea Gerard, I like the sounds of this format...👍👍
Thanks mate!
Ive managed to snapped this bolt off inside the front caliper on my Audi s5, how would you go about taking it out and replacing it?
Thanks for posting this, this has been helpful.
Hi! Which type of grease should I use?
I have a 2006 f150. Theres only 1 pin on each side with a rubber piece on it. Does the pin with the rubber piece go on the upper or lower hole? Or does it even matter
Bloody marvelous, i had wondered about this issue for a while, the rubber bushing was super tight on my Matrix, Looking forward to fixing this! thanks very much
I changed the slider pins new discs and pads.
Was experiencing a chirp sound.
After replacement and before the pin with the rubber does not slide as freely as the top one.
Is this also a good thing to do with new replacement ones.
I did clean out the carrier twice and still felt that it was not sliding freely like has a bit of resistance.
Wonderful tip. Thanks for sharing.
My pin is bent a little and totally stuck. Is there a removal tool similar to U joint removal tool?
This video fixed my problem. Thanks so much!
Very useful information. Thanks.
My calipers rattle on the pins and they don't have that rubber washer. What can I do to get them to quieten down without replacing the pins and bracket?
Dude thank you!!!! My lower pin wouldn't go back in. Shaved it down now slides smooth!
Brilliant Charles, delighted to hear it helped you 👏👏🙏🙏
Hi. I’ve been chasing a noise in the area of my front passenger tire for about six months now. (2018 Ford F150). It’s a loud clanking when I go over bumps yet if I apply any type of pressure to the brakes it will not make that noise. They have replaced lower ball joints, tie rods to no avail. They have also taken off all type of shields. My friend at work wanted to take a look at it and he said that the bottom slide bolt in the caliper wasn’t moving freely. Would this be causing a loud clanking noise? I’ve had it at ford twice and my mechanic twice and nobody can figure it out. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Ty
Dude thanks a million, from Ft Lauderdale
I have thought I would rather hear the rattle than go through brake pads and rotors yearly. Thanks, I ll try that.
I always have this problem. I lubricate the pins and after a short while I find them stuck and not moving... So what is the solution and what is your advice? Note: Silicone grease is not available in my country, so what is a good alternative?
That is a great idea Gerard, thankyou:):)
Thanks Pat, it should help out a few people 👌👍🙏🙏
Good job ,, I learned this step years ago but wanted to review it from a Profesional, I do all my services on my cars ,,when it's brakes and oil changes I go the extra mile on service quality
for my brakes, the bolt for my caliper just keeps spinning. any ideas?
The simple things are always the best.
🙏🙏 Thanks Fintan
Thanks for this man youre a star!
🙏🙏
Very helpful thanks!!!
Where does the rubber pin go to? Trailing or leading.
My wife bought a used car recently - the previous owner had installed drilled and slotted rotors - but there did't seem to be any braking force until the pedal was pushed about half way down. Although I have done lots of brake jobs, I had never experienced that particular symptom. Since we were having some other work done at the dealer I asked them to look at the brakes. They said the slide pins were seized and actually did not charge us for that part of the repair - and the problem is solved.
Great tip Ger 👌
🙏🙏 Thanks
Some of these caliper mounting brackets cannot be ordered and can't find them in a junkyard like my 2009 Nissan Cube bracket. That's why I had to purchase a propane torch from
Walmart for $18.00. Heated it up and used locking pliers to back out that seized guide pin. Just don't dump it in cold water but let it cool naturally after getting a "seized" pin out. Thank you Gerard for the upload.
I had 3 be completely frozen, the trick was to remove the rubber boot (none broke) and then apply heat on the socket until smoke comes out, at that stage start trying to spin it while heating and wait for brown smoke to come out. Heat and spin until it rotates freely and then hammer it out. Hammering before these steps did nothing and i spent lots of time on the first pin. I also read that it can shoot out because of gas pressure from grease when heating but i only had rust inside and no grease to melt
Mission accomplished.👌👍
When this happens will it cause squeaking?
Hello😊 your trick worked for me..thanks a lot
Thanks for the tip. Is the something I use use to clean inside the "well" the slide pin goes into?
What did you find out?
Perfect! Thanks!!!
is it possible to clean up inside that socket?
Spray brake cleaner inside it and let it draw. Then a rag on a screw driver
Nice tip.
Brilliant Tip Thank you!
🙏💪
I used my outdoor grill as he heat source. It worked perfectly. Thanks
Cheers Don
Nice tip
LEGEND! Thank you
Man, sometimes I do great things. Sometimes I find myself looking up tips on the simplest things. Why I never thought of that. I overthought every other possible way it seems. I'm subbed. Thanks a million actually
Thank you Richard, I appreciate you taking the time to comment and sub 🙏🙏
I hope you find many other useful videos here 🙌
What else did you try? Looking at it? This wasn't stuck.
Wow, thank you for sharing your knowledge! Just about to purchase 2 caliper pin kits just to get 2 plain pins without rubber until I discovered your video! My rotors wore unevenly & the brake pad shims got crooked from the sticking pin & that darn piece of rubber. I’m subscribed now for more invaluable jewels you may provide us DIY’ers…Cheers!
The blue stuff. Just making sure. Was that lubricant, anti-seize, or thread lock?
This video saved my bacon! Thanx amigo! I'm subscribing!
Great tip Gerard!
Recently sorted out an older 2.0td Toyota Corolla with front brakes binding. Disks glazed outer pad excessively worn compared to the piston side and the fuel consumption was terrible.
All good now though after a few hrs cleaning, greasing etc! 👍 .
Keep up the good work 😃
Thank you Chris
How do I get them out tho??????????
Good video. Can you tell me what the blue lubricant fluid is? - Brand, type etc. Thanks. Much love from Scotland, ❤ X
Good tip. I will do just this. If I can get it out! 😆
Can you help me please? I have problem with my guiding pins. I clean the wells with WD40 and Q-tips. Then I use the SilGlyde lubricant, I put very little, very thin layer. And yet, next time I check, guide pins are seized. I noticed that the rubber dust boots on the top make airtight seal. Yes, the guide pins have 3 flat channels, to allow air to escape, but it does not. When I install them, I push all the way in, and they bounce back. One of the guide pins have a cut out near the bottom where the anti-vibration rubber rings should be. If I put these rubber bends, I can not push the guide pins at all. They get stuck at the base of the dust boots. Any idea?
I have given up on the anti-vibration rubber rings. Car seems to work fine.
@andyf104 I have the rubber boots. It is unthinkable to run without. the rubber ring that is in the groove of one of the pins, this is what I do not use. Some manufacturers do not use these at all.
How do you get it out when stuck????
Can a restricted slide pin cause a rotor to be warped or will it just damage the brake pad ?
It could if it got hot. Probably more likely the lug nuts were over tightened. That is really important to tighten to spec AND tighten in a cross cross pattern when putting the wheel back on. A lot of tire shops will hit the lig nuts with their air powered impact wrench on full force.. shortly thereafter you have a warped rotor and a shaking steering wheel when you got the brakes hard.
These little pins if seized can cause A LOT more damage including destroying your ball joints. Don't take it lightly.
Great trick
Cheers David
where should be the pin with rubber top or bottom?
Good video ...can i ask why some cars only have the rubber seal on one of the slide pins
Hello David, Thanks for watching.
Regarding the question I can only just speak on why I think that is but I can't say I have spoken to designers/engineers to be certain of this.
I have noticed over the years that different caliper designs distribute pressure differently when the brakes are engaged, some seem to visibly display uneven pin pressure when the brake is applied and the caliper almost rocks more on one side/pin.
This is why I believe the rubber is only needed on one side, I hope this helps.
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage thanks make sense seen lots over years and as in your video the one with rubber sticks...will defo use your trick
Good tip! Stay safe, Joe Z
Cheers Joe, thanks for stopping in.
Been following ya for a good while but ya know that 2min vid thing will catch on for ya👍 Hope Oz is treating ya well!
Thanks Ronan 👌👍 Great to have Subscribers comment, I appreciate ya stopping in 🤗 Everything is going very well thankfully 🙏🙏 and I am enjoying it!
Quick follow up, can this be done with the calliper on the disc?
Do I have to change the rotor if one of the caliper pin is stuck for like 2 years?
Depends on the condition of the rotor
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage a fresh newly installed brake pad used for 5 minutes shows that my left rotor is uneven, the brake pad only touches the rotor in the inside part. sending the rotor to be resurfaced.
What if you can't get the pin out even after trying to turn it, put a wrench on the back side and pound, etc. It's really seized. I could try heat/torch but that seems like a lot.
This just happened to me. I Jimmy rigged a puller to slowly pull the thing out using the bolt at the end of the pin. I got a big 1 inch socket and put it around the pen up against the bracket. Then put the bolt up against the 3/8 in side of the socket and crank away with a rachet. I had to then take up more space by using a couple channel locks as the guide pin slowly would come out. Probably not describing this very well but the key is to use the bolt as a puller by figuring out the proper way to anchor the pin. Happy pulling! 😊
thanks for the video! ive done my own brakes many times but never had a slide pin issue until today....it started getting dark and my truck doesnt fit completely in my garage, so i wouldnt have been able to close it....i was freaking out, started sweating hahaha,
How do you know where the rubber bit goes? I’ve got confused on my Chevy Cruze as to whether it goes top or bottom. I bought new rubbers and can’t get them to fit in.
X2
If He doesn't answer , maybe is because he doesn't know either. Lol
Usually the bottom. Might be the opposite on rear brakes though.
Gerard what is that blue grease you are using
Hello Jim, the brand is Bendix, all details are in the description 👍👌
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Thanks Gerard, sorry yes I did not see the arrow to expand your description, job well done with your videos
شكرا تحية من الجزاير
Thank you sir
🙏🙏👌
top tip.
Cheers Ian, appreciate it 🙏
Good video thanks!
🙏
I noticed in my f150 2006. It has rubber on the top pin and the bottle pin was different design. Never seen different pins before in a vehicle.
Will a stuck pin cause any damage or effect performance?
It might cause uneven pad wear because one side of the caliper will slide easier than the other.
It most certainly did in my experience. Put a lot of stress on my wheel hub.
If there really seized in the bore then a air hammer will get them out, a bronze bore brush and brake cleaner will sometimes save them
So how do I get a seized pin out
Rock it back and over while secured in a vise, if it's really really bad it may require heat to remove it.
Absolute legend,helped me,thanks a million.
My caliper pin won't fully go in, is this because there is grease at the bottom?
I find that the slider with the rubber boot won't go in if there is too much grease as air and grease get trapped in the channel and can't get past the rubber sleeve.
How tf do I get the stuck slide pin out??
There’s only one slider pin with a rubber on it. Does it matter which hole it goes in
Yes! Usually the lower one.
Mine is completely seized and I can't get it out.
Right, so going back to the actual question, how do you remove a completely stuck slider?
Did I miss the bit where you explained how to getthe pin out??
I bought a brand new factory caliper bracket & slide pin set and the pin with the bushing doesn’t move without altering the bushing first. I figured that the original pin and boot will be toast after extricating the one that is seized after only 40k miles and now I’m willing to bet the other side is locked up too. My engineer allergy is really acting up again.
The rubber part got swollen. To prevent this, what kind of grease do we use on the caliper slide pin? Copper-based, lithium-based, or silicone-based grease?
Silicone based is probably the safest bet, that's also why I use silicone spray so much on my vehicles
How do you loosen the damn thing when it’s on too tight?
Just finished mine aI put a visegrip and hammered itfor 1/2 hour
@@steveu235 Funny story. Mine wasn’t stuck. I was applying lefty/loosey but from the point of view of sitting and looking at it, now how it was put in, which was from the back side. I felt like such an idiot.
Part of the issue with the rubber swelling is using the wrong grease. If it has swelled just slice a small piece off the end and it will go back in better.
Hi Gerard. You have great videos. But regarding breaking. I have a Chevrolet Trax 2014 FWD 1.7 TD. And for 1,5 years nobody has diagnosed My issue right.
There is no computer signal or error code that shows up. But My front right and rear back brakes are randomly staying pushed against the rotors whenever the brakes are used. Even it is just once.
The weird thing is, it's not all the time like that. It comes and goes randomly.
Everything from the hoses, to the brake lines to the saddle and supports, rotors and disks are changed out. The main vacuum pump has been checked and is OK.
The ABS fuse has been tested. Meaning it has been taken out to see if it's an ABS or EBCM issue. But the issue still was there. So we put back the ABS fuse. And no one got wiser :(
The vacuum membrane has not been looked at and it seems that no one here in Estonia is qualified to do that either. Not even the Chevrolet dealers mechanics at Autospirit nor Opel dealers mechanics have identified the issue correctly. They just keep changing out parts but not diagnosing the underlying issue at all. Do you have come across an issue like that? Any advice?
Replace the caliper
Mine is stuck as in nothing is able to pull it out. It just slowly spins
this 2 min thing may take off
😊 Thanks for watching 😊
It took me more than 5 mins just to jack the car up :)
Love the earlier part of this with the bird song in the background. Just out of silly curiosity, what would happen if the slider pins either had zero grease on them, or they had super glue put on them? Would the brakes jam on when you brake, or would the super glue just "sheer"? Only asking such a bonkers question because I've heard of people doing some stupidly odd and dangerous things when attempting to maintain a vehicle 😅😝
Good tip, but can't even get the pin out with basic tools at home. It's rotating freely, but the rubber expansion is keeping it in place, really not moving a millimeter with any amount of raw force I can apply.
why do my pins always get stuck
Are the sliding pins able to be removed and reinserted real easy?
Iv replaced the pins on my car. But the bracket still rattles. Garage says common problem lol
Are you sure that the rubber boot isn't to prevent water from getting in there and corroding the slide cylinder? If you remove that rubber boot, then water can get in there and create oxidation which prevents the pin from sliding. Just a guess.
Had luck with siezed pins by spray and turn with a impact gun.
Make sure the rubber is pried back so it won't get torn...👍🏼😁
/Hopefully/ just saved me around a hundred dollars, thanks! 😄 Now to unstick the damn pin 🤣
Just did this on my lancer I just sanded the pins repaired the seal was cracked
👍
Hey Mate,
Guess what I am teaching the apprentices this week - Braking Systems!
This will be a good video to guide them in their practical tasks.
By the way - how long do the 2 Minute Quick Tips go for?? 😁😉
NICE!! 😁😁😁
This Series #2MinuteQuickTips I hope to go for a very long time, I have many ideas wrote down and some clips for future videos already shot, as always though it's having the problem/visuals in the workshop to showcase it for the viewers, that will be the biggest issue. Thanks for watching mate.
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Look forward to them. 👍
@@MiracleMAX 👍