Hello Ozz (Glen), I was watching your video about stuck slider pins on brake calipers. I notice you mentioned about heating the caliper up with a propane torch. I also do that if I need to. I wanted to mention a word of caution when performing that type of procedure. That is, that I heated one up one time. I must have heated it too much, because I went to put a wrench on the pin to move the pin, as soon as I tried to turn the pin, and without even turning the pin just added a slight pressure to it the pin shot out of the caliper like a bullet. If I had of been in front of the caliper I'm positive it would have penetrated my abdomen for sure and would have been in trouble. Just to mention also in my garage I had an electric stove across from where I was doing this, the stove was approx 10 feet from where the caliper was when the pin shot out it broke the stove oven glass in a million pieces. So please be careful and be safe when doing this kind of work. I believe it shot out because grease or water that was in the cylinder of the pin must have turned to steam and built up excessive pressure on the pin. Never stand in front of the pins, always to the side.
Thanks for sharing your story Bob. Glad to know that you were not injured. Working on anything requires safety and doing our best to prevent injury. It is important to know. Appreciate your comment.
Thanks, Ozz. I was surprised to find that the siezed pin I've just found is a common problem since Ive never come across it before. I'm grateful for your advice, and will finish the job using your advice.
I replaced my pads a week ago and ignored one seized caliper clip pins and almost died in the highway, got it towed to the house and will replace/fix it today. Thanks for the video, great info
Had to do this today on my 2005 Honda Accord in the rear ...... !!!! I learned this from my grandfather years ago ..... Great video for ppl that don't know this
Your heat n beat method did the trick…..luckily, I had a spare pin from previous job ( I keep all kinds of old crap).. because I destroyed the pin head getting it off…couldn’t have done it without you…heat n beat is often the solution!
Just run into this issue on a light truck. Was just about to take the bracket off and put some heat in it. Looks like that’s the way to go. Cheers for the confirmation video
This is exactly the video I was looking for since I have the same issues on both driver and passenger sides. What a pain in the ass. And you're correct. A 2009 Nissan Cube, they do not even have the caliper bracket for purchase. Thank you so much for uploading this. Don't any of you dare to do a disc brake job without checking your GUIDEPINS ! My fault too.
Just finished the front brakes on my Nissan Titan, I was about to give up but instead I went and bought a torch and a vise . I then beat and lubed it to death and it came apart 🙏🏾 thanks for the video.
front passenger wheel was squeaking horribly, took the caliper apart and sure enough a pin was stuck. watched a few youtube videos including yours and was able to get it out and replace with new hardware & lubricant, good as new. thanks so much, very helpful!
Fantastic video. Thank you. What works for me is just rotating the caliper pin back and forth and pulling on it gently, I rocked it back and forth about maybe 50 times, sprayed W-D 40 in the space between the boot and the pin, and eventually it gave way and slid out. I hammered lightly as well. It's amazing how these caliper pins get stuck all the time.
@@ozzstars_cars Patience is definitely key. A couple of months ago my wife's car was squealing. One of the pads was down to metal, the other still had about 1/2 of the meat left. I found one of the pins was stuck. In my defense, I've seen them stick, never seized. I thought a couple hits with a hammer on the wrench would free it. The head of the pin broke off. I had to replace the caliper. Today I was doing my front brakes, after I got home from work and both of the pins on one side are stuck. I learned my lesson and didn't make the same mistake. I hit the wrench with my hand a few times, when that didn't loosen it, I gave up and checked good ole RUclips. I found your video. I will be trying your method tomorrow. Thanks for the tips I blame the quality of the way things are made nowadays, or should I say lack of quality. I've been working on my and my family's cars since I was a teenager. I'm 56 now, and as I've said I've never seen this before. Now 2 different cars in a couple of months. Thanks again.
Edit: I heated them up and beat them with a hammer. They still didn't budge. I kept going to heavier hammers (I have a lot of hammers, lol). I was hitting them outward because I was afraid of twisting them and breaking off the head like I did with my wife's car. What finally worked was twisting them gently (or only as forcefully as needed) with a breaker bar, while heating them. It took a lot of heat with the propane torch, at least a couple of minutes. To be honest, I read RPFIE9368's comment below and was a little afraid I would end up breaking something or worse yet, a caliper pin through some part of my body. They finally started to move, and I kept working them until they came out. I cleaned out the mount holes with wire brushes and even had to use a file. I replaced the pins and boots with new, because the originals were very rusty, but I didn't have to replace the caliper (the mount alone isn't available locally). I might have been able to sand them down enough to re-use them, but I was running out of time.I put them in and replaced the brake pads. Everything seems to be working well. I might take everything apart again in a couple of weeks just to check that it's all good. Sorry for the length of these comments. Hopefully it helps someone, like you helped me. Thanks again.
I just performed this on my Lincoln mkS vlog. I am telling you this job was a pain because it was so rusted being that the car was originally from New York. But I made it through in the end. Great job and advice Glen!
I feel your pain Jay Cee, that NY rust is no fun I worked on a Tundra truck last week from NY State and it was a challenge. Glad the video helped you out. Take care
Great tips, Glen. You might add not to stand in front of the bracket while you're heating it. I have seen those pins shoot out like a bullet out of a gun sometimes.
Thanks I was going down this route but was reassured through your video. Also I didn’t take the bracket to the vise worked well just keeping it bolted on. Cheers 🍻
Did a whole rotor job today with my lil bro assuming that was the root of his problem as we drove to test it out we see smoke coming from front driver side, annoyingly took off the wheel to find a stuck, seized, rusted, guide pin. this video helped a lot unfortunately didn't have a vise so we couldn't remove after torching, We ended up ordering the new bracket with guide pins.
So I knew these were supposed to slide... my best bud said they weren't.... how do we see who's right? Go to good old youtube.... long story short I type in froze brake pin and this video pops up. Wasn't expecting anything fancy cuz it's such a simple thing but lemme tell u... u definitely did a helluva job on this video got yourself another subscriber!
BRO U are a LIFE SAVER GR8 VIDEO FINALLY a VIDEO like it REALLY is when U DO IT yourself I was STCUK for 2hrs trying to get mine out an WATCHED your VIDEO an BAM few minutes came OUT THANK U SAVED ME a TON of TIME an MONEY!!!
That’s what happened to me on my used 2006 Vibe! The pins were frozen, and just the near pad wore to nothing but far pad still good! Thanks for the tip!
Keep track of the heat and do not get too close to the pin gasket so as not to melt it. I use steel wool and sometime had to use a file too clean up pins. Thanks for the video.
Had to do that on a Sienna, twice within the last couple months. 1st time was late April, and redid it this wk, but I replaced the boots this time around. I used a drill with wire brush to clean out the bore. Hoping it's fixed permanently this time around.
What a PIA. Yeah I ordered new boots, should solve the prob. Those Toyota calipers can get pretty rusty. This is a 21 year old Maxima so not too bad for that age. Take care Cuba
Thank for the video. An alternative method to try before heating would be to use penetrating oil with an air hammer smoothing bit on the outside casing while twisting the pin. Of course if ther doesn't work, you can always use heat.
@@ozzstars_cars Perhaps you misunderstood, The air hammer SMOOTHING BIT would be used on the OUTSIDE CASING. not on the pin itself. Obviously you would not use max air pressure, just enough to vibrate it loose Similar to what you illustrated with the ball peen hammer.
@%98%83%F0%9F%98%80%F0%9F%98%80%F0%9F%98%84hannel/UCbCgP2ryMEdcSiGC09Lcp0g oh I smell what you are stepping in now. Beat that pin in to submission anyway you can! 😃
I tried this & it only got somewhat loose, so instead i just put whole bracket & pin in the vice & it slowly started pressing it in & the pin just slid right out once it got unstuck! Thanks for the heating tip!
Thanks for helping me out. Half a can of WD40 , a hammer and a good wrench did the job and I didn't need the heater. It took me about half an hour to get the damn thing loose though ...
@@ozzstars_cars I'd like to ask you another question if I may. I have a 2002 GMC Yukon 1500 and the digital temperature/ AC controller only gives me 2 options: cold on every setting and very hot at maximum setting (nothing in between). I've calibrated the heater module, I've replaced the blend door actuator on the passenger's side that regulates the heat but without succes. What's goin' on here ? Thanks for your time.
@@superfluppe there are too many variables to type an answer here without diagnosing the truck in person. If the correct relearn procedure was done then I would suspect the control unit. Maybe the contacts need cleaning? A scan tool with bidirectional controls would be helpful. I have a video that might give some clue though it's on an older '93 GM with electronic climate control repair. ruclips.net/video/KBeqA1n9q9A/видео.html
I replaced all four a few years back. I found the front passenger brake caliper and wheel burning up and smoking after a day's drive. The pin is seized from rust just like yours was. And it looks like the pistons are seized. The damn things are not cheap but I have to buy new ones.
I just found impact gun works miracle in such situation.. be careful you might need new sliders after. They are pretty cheap so might as well replace them
my first time doing brakes ever on my car, I ran into this problem. so I took a crash course through RUclips on how to replace a caliper and how to push the air out and bleed the caliper. it is possible I could have dislodged the pin? maybe. but I do not have a table vise so I just went with a straight up replacement. now I know to check those rubber boots and re-grease the pins every 6 months or so.
I had one seized the other day was heating it up and just exploded, the pin shot all the way to the other side of the workshop, only heated it up for about 30 seconds or so, was there something I did wrong or could do differently?
Ive got lucky a few times. Lots of heat. Vise grips on slide pin. Work that sob loose. Buy new pin set better then $200 caliper!! Trucks here 2500hd,s Why cant a grease fitting go in that bracket to grease slides when doing your ujoints ect. Contemplating drilling /tapping next new set of calipers and putting grease nipples. Or look at the idea a little more. Nice vid. Thanks champ
I have a 2015 Mazda CX5. Had a rear caliper freeze up a few years ago and had it replaced. I made sure the front pins were lubbed with SIL-Glyde. Went to change the front pads this summer and one of the pins wouldn't move. I had it mounted in the car and took an open end wrench on the pin and hit the wrench with a 4 lb hammer quite a few times and it came out. The wrench gripped both sides of the pin so there was no issue with bending and it didn't dig up the pin.
@ozzstars_cars today, I was able to free mine. It was really stuck! Now i know i need to free up the front wheel caliper pin. I was able to get the new breaks on so i lift it as is
Thank you for this informative short video. I was working on my front brakes of T sienna, and one of the caliper pins wouldn't budge. I took out the bracket out, have soaked with WD-40. Will use a vise as you have shown, will try to get the caliper out as you have described. What is a good criteria to decide on a new caliper pin or going with the old one? At 6.00 in your clip, you talked about a small sleeve on one of the pins, your thoughts on why only one caliper pin has this (and not both the pins). Is this sleeve really necessary as I have seen some mechanics saying it's not that important. Thanks again!
The sleeve is made of rubber and it's purpose is to dampen vibration and reduce brake noise. A replacement pin must fit snug but be able to slide with no excessive wobble. Careful not too use to much heat, it can cause the pin to shoot out like a bullet.
My first attempt with heat and wiggle didn't work. Now I have added some more penetrating oil and left it. Will try again. In your opinion, LH and RH caliper brackets are they the same? Looks quite similar to me, any thoughts? Thanks
@@pradeeppallan2232 left and right depends on the design. To many cars out there to guess. Takes a lot of wiggling and beating sometimes to get those rusty pins out.
I dont have a blowtorch but used a paint heat gun to provide the heat - that also did the trick after 3 goes. I destroyed the boot and while I am waiting for the new pin and boot I cut a section from a bigger sliding pin boot from some junk I had lying around from a previous job!
@@ozzstars_cars Repeated applications of the heat gun, hammering with a drift, and working the pin left and right, eventually loosened it - after 40 minutes!! Perseverance paid off
Will this help on a car that has been sitting for three years ? I suspect my calipers may be locked up because when I put a crow bar near them and have someone pump the brakes I don't feel them squeezing the rotor at all ?
Can you help me please? I have problem with my guiding pins. I clean the wells with WD40 and Q-tips. Then I use the SilGlyde lubricant, I put very little, very thin layer. And yet, next time I check, guide pins are seized. I noticed that the rubber dust boots on the top make airtight seal. Yes, the guide pins have 3 flat channels, to allow air to escape, but it does not. When I install them, I push all the way in, and they bounce back. One of the guide pins have a cut out near the bottom where the anti-vibration rubber rings should be. If I put these rubber bends, I can not push the guide pins at all. They get stuck at the base of the dust boots. Any idea?
Omg thank you for this. What started with a simple brake and rotor changed turned into this shitty pin stuck. Just like this, n i didn't know what else to try. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
This happened on my Camry. I got a propane torch & a 3lb mallet so I should be able to get it done without that big bench vice on my paved driveway. Thanks!
Does the seized pins cause spongy or soft brakes ? I’m having this issue after had installing new rotors and pads. Everything was installed correctly and I double checked but now my brakes are soft. I bled the air out too
I used sil-glyde brake grease on my caliber slide pins. It's supposed to be OK for rubber you can buy it at most any parts store. It's like $10 bucks for a 8 ounce tube.
I do because it could be years before the brakes are serviced again and by then the old grease can dry out and seize the pin causing abnormal brake wear.
How did you heat it without wrecking the boots? Normally I wouldn't worry about that, and just replace them, but you can't just walk into a store and buy them it seems.
Thanks for explanation When My brake pads cannot retract (a little bit) , I press down break padel and then brake pads are free, what is problem? Is concern with cliper guide pin? air in brake line? Master cylinder?
What do I do if it’s stuck, but dry. I got it off but mine is rusted and doesn’t have any sludge at all. It was literally metal to metal rubbing should I replace the part or will some lube do the job
I always have this problem. I lubricate the pins and after a short while I find them stuck and not moving... So what is the solution and what is your advice? Note: Silicone grease is not available in my country, so what is a good alternative?
I got an 08 nissan titan with this exact issue... I'm still trying to get it out, it got dark on me so I soaked it w wd40 and I'll try it again tom. Hopefully I can get a new pin kit and fix it that way, hate to spend 75 on a new caliper just to get a bracket......
great job man good tips i dont know if theve upgraded caliper pin bolt boots but really need something better then just a cheap boot to protect the pin from freezing up dont know if this is a problem in the southern non rust states or just a northeast thing
@ozzstar's cars do you think that if the bracket pin is stuck can cause pulsing to the brake lever on a motorcycle with floating calipers? Any advice would be much appreciated!
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Best way of doing this I have the same freakin problem with my 2011 scion xb and I found out because my break pads were wearing uneven.....my piston in the caliper is perfect so I found this issue.....and man it's a pain trying to get it out....so time for the flame thrower!!!!!🤌👍✌
Hi in this interesting vid you show the cleaning of the guide pins. why are they different from each other? that is, one pin is completely smooth and the other instead has a black coating as if it had a darker metal band around ? what is it for? Should the one with the metal band be at the top or bottom of the assembly? hi thanks for the answer
Dude I couldn’t get my top caliper bolt out today . I tried everything I know . The bolt head is stripped now . What can I do to get this out ?? Actually I haven’t tried a real penetrate yet . Just WD 40 . Im gonna get some tomorrow and hopefully they have some type of wrench that will tighten down on head as I beat on it . What do you think
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Hello Ozz (Glen),
I was watching your video about stuck slider pins on brake calipers. I notice you mentioned about heating the caliper up with a propane torch. I also do that if I need to. I wanted to mention a word of caution when performing that type of procedure. That is, that I heated one up one time. I must have heated it too much, because I went to put a wrench on the pin to move the pin, as soon as I tried to turn the pin, and without even turning the pin just added a slight pressure to it the pin shot out of the caliper like a bullet. If I had of been in front of the caliper I'm positive it would have penetrated my abdomen for sure and would have been in trouble. Just to mention also in my garage I had an electric stove across from where I was doing this, the stove was approx 10 feet from where the caliper was when the pin shot out it broke the stove oven glass in a million pieces. So please be careful and be safe when doing this kind of work. I believe it shot out because grease or water that was in the cylinder of the pin must have turned to steam and built up excessive pressure on the pin. Never stand in front of the pins, always to the side.
Thanks for sharing your story Bob. Glad to know that you were not injured. Working on anything requires safety and doing our best to prevent injury. It is important to know. Appreciate your comment.
Thanks Bob... near miss!
very informative thanks
Thanks, Ozz. I was surprised to find that the siezed pin I've just found is a common problem since Ive never come across it before. I'm grateful for your advice, and will finish the job using your advice.
Very grateful for that advice, Bob!
And why do people say it’s just a five minute job when there is no such thing. Great tip Glen in showing how to get a rusted caliper pin out. 😀👍
Doing anything right takes time as you know. Doing a job twice to get it right sucks. 😬
Well lube, sliding in and out, rubber boots?!?!?! I forgot I was watching a brake caliper fix! wow! Good tip Glen!
Good thing you are over 18 years old Mike. lol
@@ozzstars_cars - SO many innuendos in this vid, I don't know where to start! 😜😂
The more I DIY mechanic, the more I realize mechanical engineers have a one track mind 😂😂🤣💀
I replaced my pads a week ago and ignored one seized caliper clip pins and almost died in the highway, got it towed to the house and will replace/fix it today. Thanks for the video, great info
Be safe.
Just replaced my rears, 1 pin was seized, fixed it, glad I did after reading your post. Greeting from Australia😅.
Some of those can be a rear pain in the rear end. Good job. Thanks again for the help
Sure thing, anytime. 👍
Had to do this today on my 2005 Honda Accord in the rear ...... !!!! I learned this from my grandfather years ago ..... Great video for ppl that don't know this
Thanks Joshua. Passing down info for generations is pretty cool.
Your heat n beat method did the trick…..luckily, I had a spare pin from previous job ( I keep all kinds of old crap).. because I destroyed the pin head getting it off…couldn’t have done it without you…heat n beat is often the solution!
Nice job Phillip
Just run into this issue on a light truck. Was just about to take the bracket off and put some heat in it. Looks like that’s the way to go. Cheers for the confirmation video
This is exactly the video I was looking for since I have the same issues on both driver and passenger sides. What a pain in the ass.
And you're correct. A 2009 Nissan Cube, they do not even have the caliper bracket for purchase. Thank you so much for uploading this.
Don't any of you dare to do a disc brake job without checking your GUIDEPINS ! My fault too.
Glad the video helped you out! Good luck. -Glen
Lexus is250 awd rear brake caliper bottom sliding guide pin sizes in bore. Big pita. Great video
In my earlier days, did not know about slide pins. Last 15 years yes always cleaned and relubed.
Just finished the front brakes on my Nissan Titan, I was about to give up but instead I went and bought a torch and a vise . I then beat and lubed it to death and it came apart 🙏🏾 thanks for the video.
Glad the video was helpful.
You’re like the stepdad / uncle I wish I had as a kid
In a good way.
front passenger wheel was squeaking horribly, took the caliper apart and sure enough a pin was stuck. watched a few youtube videos including yours and was able to get it out and replace with new hardware & lubricant, good as new. thanks so much, very helpful!
Good news. Thanks for your comment.
Fantastic video. Thank you. What works for me is just rotating the caliper pin back and forth and pulling on it gently, I rocked it back and forth about maybe 50 times, sprayed W-D 40 in the space between the boot and the pin, and eventually it gave way and slid out. I hammered lightly as well. It's amazing how these caliper pins get stuck all the time.
They can be a pain. Patience is key! Thanks for the comment.
@@ozzstars_cars Patience is definitely key. A couple of months ago my wife's car was squealing. One of the pads was down to metal, the other still had about 1/2 of the meat left. I found one of the pins was stuck. In my defense, I've seen them stick, never seized. I thought a couple hits with a hammer on the wrench would free it. The head of the pin broke off. I had to replace the caliper.
Today I was doing my front brakes, after I got home from work and both of the pins on one side are stuck. I learned my lesson and didn't make the same mistake. I hit the wrench with my hand a few times, when that didn't loosen it, I gave up and checked good ole RUclips. I found your video. I will be trying your method tomorrow. Thanks for the tips
I blame the quality of the way things are made nowadays, or should I say lack of quality. I've been working on my and my family's cars since I was a teenager. I'm 56 now, and as I've said I've never seen this before. Now 2 different cars in a couple of months. Thanks again.
Edit: I heated them up and beat them with a hammer. They still didn't budge. I kept going to heavier hammers (I have a lot of hammers, lol). I was hitting them outward because I was afraid of twisting them and breaking off the head like I did with my wife's car. What finally worked was twisting them gently (or only as forcefully as needed) with a breaker bar, while heating them. It took a lot of heat with the propane torch, at least a couple of minutes. To be honest, I read RPFIE9368's comment below and was a little afraid I would end up breaking something or worse yet, a caliper pin through some part of my body. They finally started to move, and I kept working them until they came out. I cleaned out the mount holes with wire brushes and even had to use a file. I replaced the pins and boots with new, because the originals were very rusty, but I didn't have to replace the caliper (the mount alone isn't available locally). I might have been able to sand them down enough to re-use them, but I was running out of time.I put them in and replaced the brake pads. Everything seems to be working well. I might take everything apart again in a couple of weeks just to check that it's all good. Sorry for the length of these comments. Hopefully it helps someone, like you helped me. Thanks again.
Good tips. I agree with only using silicone on slide pins, petroleum based products can swell those rubber bushings up and cause them to seize.
Yes I have seen it. 👍
I saw my mechanic put in lithium heavy duty grease. Will that be a problem?
I just performed this on my Lincoln mkS vlog. I am telling you this job was a pain because it was so rusted being that the car was originally from New York. But I made it through in the end. Great job and advice Glen!
I feel your pain Jay Cee, that NY rust is no fun I worked on a Tundra truck last week from NY State and it was a challenge. Glad the video helped you out. Take care
@@ozzstars_cars Indeed. Thanks for the replay. It did indeed.
Excellent and very informative video. Thanks for posting, now I'm ready to work on my front brakes!
Great tips, Glen. You might add not to stand in front of the bracket while you're heating it. I have seen those pins shoot out like a bullet out of a gun sometimes.
Yes someone else.mentioned that. I never knew that until now. Thanks for the tip. Have a happy 4th man.
Great tip to check when you check the brakes. Fixes lots of brake problems so you don't have to heat and beat. Thanks Glen
That's right man!
@ozzstars_cars sometimes you got to beat the heck out of the parts to get em to move again then clean em up and lube! 30 minite job turns into 1 hour!
Thanks I was going down this route but was reassured through your video. Also I didn’t take the bracket to the vise worked well just keeping it bolted on. Cheers 🍻
Did a whole rotor job today with my lil bro assuming that was the root of his problem as we drove to test it out we see smoke coming from front driver side, annoyingly took off the wheel to find a stuck, seized, rusted, guide pin. this video helped a lot unfortunately didn't have a vise so we couldn't remove after torching, We ended up ordering the new bracket with guide pins.
I’m glad you lubed it up before you forced it in there.😂 excellent video Glen!
lol, high performance lube for guys like us Brian. 😉
So I knew these were supposed to slide... my best bud said they weren't.... how do we see who's right? Go to good old youtube.... long story short I type in froze brake pin and this video pops up. Wasn't expecting anything fancy cuz it's such a simple thing but lemme tell u... u definitely did a helluva job on this video got yourself another subscriber!
Thanks Cody!
BRO U are a LIFE SAVER GR8 VIDEO FINALLY a VIDEO like it REALLY is when U DO IT yourself I was STCUK for 2hrs trying to get mine out an WATCHED your VIDEO an BAM few minutes came OUT THANK U SAVED ME a TON of TIME an MONEY!!!
That's awesome! You're welcome.
That’s what happened to me on my used 2006 Vibe! The pins were frozen, and just the near pad wore to nothing but far pad still good! Thanks for the tip!
That'll do it!
Keep track of the heat and do not get too close to the pin gasket so as not to melt it. I use steel wool and sometime had to use a file too clean up pins. Thanks for the video.
@@ken2400 good suggestions.
And a good vise is a must. Great tip and well explained process. I hope your having a great Independence Day!
It's like a good set of strong extra hands that you don't have to babysit. haha Happy 4th man!
Happened to me during a brake job.. Fixed it as you said also. Nice tutorial and explanation. Thanks Much.
Good deal!
Had to do that on a Sienna, twice within the last couple months. 1st time was late April, and redid it this wk, but I replaced the boots this time around. I used a drill with wire brush to clean out the bore. Hoping it's fixed permanently this time around.
What a PIA. Yeah I ordered new boots, should solve the prob. Those Toyota calipers can get pretty rusty. This is a 21 year old Maxima so not too bad for that age. Take care Cuba
Good info. Especially about only using silicone grease on the slider pins. Common mistake people make.
Thank for the video. An alternative method to try before heating would be to use penetrating oil with an air hammer smoothing bit on the outside casing while twisting the pin. Of course if ther doesn't work, you can always use heat.
If the pin is only slightly rusted otherwise that air hammer will make mince meat out of that frozen caliper bolt.
@@ozzstars_cars Perhaps you misunderstood, The air hammer SMOOTHING BIT would be used on the OUTSIDE CASING. not on the pin itself. Obviously you would not use max air pressure, just enough to vibrate it loose Similar to what you illustrated with the ball peen hammer.
@%98%83%F0%9F%98%80%F0%9F%98%80%F0%9F%98%84hannel/UCbCgP2ryMEdcSiGC09Lcp0g oh I smell what you are stepping in now. Beat that pin in to submission anyway you can! 😃
Saved my goddam life, never used a blowtorch before this, I’m a changed man!!
Now you are officially in Manhood but you really need to weld something now. lol
I tried this & it only got somewhat loose, so instead i just put whole bracket & pin in the vice & it slowly started pressing it in & the pin just slid right out once it got unstuck! Thanks for the heating tip!
Glad it worked out for you Roman.
Thanks for helping me out. Half a can of WD40 , a hammer and a good wrench did the job and I didn't need the heater. It took me about half an hour to get the damn thing loose though ...
It's a battle sometimes. Glad you won. 👍
@@ozzstars_cars I'd like to ask you another question if I may. I have a 2002 GMC Yukon 1500 and the digital temperature/ AC controller only gives me 2 options: cold on every setting and very hot at maximum setting (nothing in between). I've calibrated the heater module, I've replaced the blend door actuator on the passenger's side that regulates the heat but without succes. What's goin' on here ? Thanks for your time.
@@superfluppe there are too many variables to type an answer here without diagnosing the truck in person. If the correct relearn procedure was done then I would suspect the control unit. Maybe the contacts need cleaning? A scan tool with bidirectional controls would be helpful. I have a video that might give some clue though it's on an older '93 GM with electronic climate control repair. ruclips.net/video/KBeqA1n9q9A/видео.html
@@ozzstars_cars It turned out to be the inside temperature sensor aspirator ...
I replaced all four a few years back. I found the front passenger brake caliper and wheel burning up and smoking after a day's drive. The pin is seized from rust just like yours was. And it looks like the pistons are seized. The damn things are not cheap but I have to buy new ones.
I just found impact gun works miracle in such situation.. be careful you might need new sliders after. They are pretty cheap so might as well replace them
my first time doing brakes ever on my car, I ran into this problem. so I took a crash course through RUclips on how to replace a caliper and how to push the air out and bleed the caliper.
it is possible I could have dislodged the pin? maybe. but I do not have a table vise so I just went with a straight up replacement. now I know to check those rubber boots and re-grease the pins every 6 months or so.
For anyone reading this please replace the boot. It's the reason it seized.
Not a bad idea
Thanks this helped me today, took the torch to finally free the bolt
Yeah Eric those pins can be frizen!
Thanks I had the same problem pin was Frozen, big struggle getting that one out , Thanks again
☕️☕️😊😊😊👍👍👍
You're welcome!
I had one seized the other day was heating it up and just exploded, the pin shot all the way to the other side of the workshop, only heated it up for about 30 seconds or so, was there something I did wrong or could do differently?
thanks you so much.l learned a lot watching your video.saved me a lot of money..greetings from Argentina and may the successes continue!!!
Great news! Thank you -Glen
Ive got lucky a few times. Lots of heat. Vise grips on slide pin. Work that sob loose. Buy new pin set better then $200 caliper!!
Trucks here 2500hd,s
Why cant a grease fitting go in that bracket to grease slides when doing your ujoints ect.
Contemplating drilling /tapping next new set of calipers and putting grease nipples. Or look at the idea a little more. Nice vid. Thanks champ
Folks would probably over grease and that would melt and get on the brake rotos and pads. Not a good thing if trying to stop. Good in theory though.
Thanks I needed that help about the slide pins being stuck now in the morning I can finish my brake job on my Dodge Dakota!!!😀
Good.luck with the repair. 👍
Thank you for the step-by-step educational guide..
Heat and beat. I can relate to that. Lol. Great info. Thanks.
🤣
I have a 2015 Mazda CX5. Had a rear caliper freeze up a few years ago and had it replaced. I made sure the front pins were lubbed with SIL-Glyde. Went to change the front pads this summer and one of the pins wouldn't move. I had it mounted in the car and took an open end wrench on the pin and hit the wrench with a 4 lb hammer quite a few times and it came out. The wrench gripped both sides of the pin so there was no issue with bending and it didn't dig up the pin.
Make sure the rubber boots are in good condition.
You can remove the boot before you start beating and heating! It will stretch around the head if they are in good shape!
Yup that's exactly what she told me. 🤣
Greetings from Lagos Nigeria ❤
Terrific breakdown on what needs to be done to free the pin 🧰🛠
You got it! Thanks
Thank you very much for this excellently delivered tutorial
Sure thing Martin
Oh much appreciated! I just used a plumbers torch and worked perfect
Nice!
Excellent video and funny descriptions. Exactly what i was looking for. 👌
Glad you liked it!
@ozzstars_cars today,
I was able to free mine. It was really stuck! Now i know i need to free up the front wheel caliper pin. I was able to get the new breaks on so i lift it as is
Thank you so much I was busting my ass for an hours on this pin and I finally got off using your technique.
You're welcome Charles
Thank you for this informative short video. I was working on my front brakes of T sienna, and one of the caliper pins wouldn't budge. I took out the bracket out, have soaked with WD-40. Will use a vise as you have shown, will try to get the caliper out as you have described. What is a good criteria to decide on a new caliper pin or going with the old one?
At 6.00 in your clip, you talked about a small sleeve on one of the pins, your thoughts on why only one caliper pin has this (and not both the pins). Is this sleeve really necessary as I have seen some mechanics saying it's not that important.
Thanks again!
The sleeve is made of rubber and it's purpose is to dampen vibration and reduce brake noise. A replacement pin must fit snug but be able to slide with no excessive wobble. Careful not too use to much heat, it can cause the pin to shoot out like a bullet.
Thank you
My first attempt with heat and wiggle didn't work. Now I have added some more penetrating oil and left it. Will try again. In your opinion, LH and RH caliper brackets are they the same? Looks quite similar to me, any thoughts? Thanks
@@pradeeppallan2232 left and right depends on the design. To many cars out there to guess. Takes a lot of wiggling and beating sometimes to get those rusty pins out.
I dont have a blowtorch but used a paint heat gun to provide the heat - that also did the trick after 3 goes. I destroyed the boot and while I am waiting for the new pin and boot I cut a section from a bigger sliding pin boot from some junk I had lying around from a previous job!
Sounds like a real pain. The heat gun is a good alternate, thanks for sharing.
@@ozzstars_cars Repeated applications of the heat gun, hammering with a drift, and working the pin left and right, eventually loosened it - after 40 minutes!! Perseverance paid off
You could also thread a slide hammer on the pin and hammer out a few times with a light 5 pound or less size slide hammet
Good idea.
Have you tried wb40.... have a go did work for me ... heat always help. Thanks
@linogiestas6453 never heard of wb40, did you mean WD-40?
Thanks ...very informative....What is the purpose of the rubber bushing on the pin??
To control vibration and reduce noise.
Will this help on a car that has been sitting for three years ? I suspect my calipers may be locked up because when I put a crow bar near them and have someone pump the brakes I don't feel them squeezing the rotor at all ?
Sometimes replacement us the answer. Good luck.
Had this happen on one of my cars before. I freed it with a impact wrench, leaving the slider pin bolt on and driving it.
I was afraid to strip the threads. I ended up using this method by instinct.
This is the video that I was looking for. Exelent
This was truly helpful. I guess I have to go get a torch to heat it up. thanks
Good luck with the repair.
Personally I stick a bit more grease in the rubber boot after the initial grease of pin
Most excellent video! Thanks for helping me through this!!
Good news, thanks for your comment!
Can you help me please? I have problem with my guiding pins. I clean the wells with WD40 and Q-tips. Then I use the SilGlyde lubricant, I put very little, very thin layer. And yet, next time I check, guide pins are seized. I noticed that the rubber dust boots on the top make airtight seal. Yes, the guide pins have 3 flat channels, to allow air to escape, but it does not. When I install them, I push all the way in, and they bounce back. One of the guide pins have a cut out near the bottom where the anti-vibration rubber rings should be. If I put these rubber bends, I can not push the guide pins at all. They get stuck at the base of the dust boots. Any idea?
Thank you mine popped out to the speed of light ….is a good thing I thought it could happened and faced it toward the wall
Ufff 🌈🇨🇦
The pressure can be intense
Omg thank you for this. What started with a simple brake and rotor changed turned into this shitty pin stuck. Just like this, n i didn't know what else to try. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Glad the video was helpful. -Glen
Hi very good vid, how often would you need to do this, annually? or more? or less? Cheers
Good preventative maintenance. Most times it's years.
@@ozzstars_cars so annually?
Good video Glen. Hey where do you get those brushes at. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! I had a stuck break caliper on my 2004 Nissan Pathfinder. Having the exact issues.
You're welcome!
Penetrants improve things by 10% tops. I don't even keep it around anymore. Heat always works.
I'd rather have a 10% chance than no chance at all. 😉
@@ozzstars_cars In the absence of not having a heat source available, certainly.
This happened on my Camry. I got a propane torch & a 3lb mallet so I should be able to get it done without that big bench vice on my paved driveway.
Thanks!
That's a BFH for a small job. Don't bend the bracket by accident.
Worked great for me, thanks for uploading.
Great to hear!
Does the seized pins cause spongy or soft brakes ? I’m having this issue after had installing new rotors and pads. Everything was installed correctly and I double checked but now my brakes are soft. I bled the air out too
Anything is possible. You may want to check that ALL caliper pins are sliding smoothly.
Great vid, exactly what I needed. Thanks.
You got it Graham!
I used sil-glyde brake grease on my caliber slide pins. It's supposed to be OK for rubber you can buy it at most any parts store. It's like $10 bucks for a 8 ounce tube.
Yes it's good.
I've the same issue with my high landers brakes
Ill try this ozzie!
Give it a go!
Same! Bottom pin is stuck on my Highlander. I’ll give this a try. Can I use wd-40 or brake cleaner on the pin?
Should I bother take the caliper pins out and lube them if they.move freely?
I do because it could be years before the brakes are serviced again and by then the old grease can dry out and seize the pin causing abnormal brake wear.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank you.
Yes. Good. Heat and beat. Good title. Thanks
Thanks for your comment.
thank you for the info! i have a seized guide pin on my 2014 Hyundai Santefe, now i know what to do! thank you.
Take your time and patience. Let us know how it goes.
@@ozzstars_cars for sure, the one im dealing doesnt move at all, its literally seized in there
@@Matt-iq1zj they can be tough to remove. If the pin wobbles in the bore after removal, then replace it.
How did you heat it without wrecking the boots? Normally I wouldn't worry about that, and just replace them, but you can't just walk into a store and buy them it seems.
I don't heat the metal cherry red. Just to the point of hot, flame away from the boot.
excellent. agree with all. thank you. heat worked for me.
Way to go!
Thanks for explanation
When My brake pads cannot retract (a little bit) , I press down break padel and then brake pads are free, what is problem?
Is concern with cliper guide pin? air in brake line? Master cylinder?
Could be a lot of things. Test don't guess.
What do I do if it’s stuck, but dry. I got it off but mine is rusted and doesn’t have any sludge at all. It was literally metal to metal rubbing should I replace the part or will some lube do the job
After cleanup if the pin has slop buy a replacement, you will need a new boot kit at the very least to keep water out.
I always have this problem. I lubricate the pins and after a short while I find them stuck and not moving... So what is the solution and what is your advice? Note: Silicone grease is not available in my country, so what is a good alternative?
Dielectric grease but it will not resist the hear and melt. Curious what country you are in?
@@ozzstars_cars from libya
@@ozzstars_cars Can it be replaced with joint grease?
I got an 08 nissan titan with this exact issue... I'm still trying to get it out, it got dark on me so I soaked it w wd40 and I'll try it again tom. Hopefully I can get a new pin kit and fix it that way, hate to spend 75 on a new caliper just to get a bracket......
Thanks for the video, saved me a bunch of cash,
Nice! I could use some. Haha
great job man good tips i dont know if theve upgraded caliper pin bolt boots but really need something better then just a cheap boot to protect the pin from freezing up dont know if this is a problem in the southern non rust states or just a northeast thing
Happens often. Thanks for your comment.
@ozzstar's cars do you think that if the bracket pin is stuck can cause pulsing to the brake lever on a motorcycle with floating calipers? Any advice would be much appreciated!
Mobil 1™ Synthetic Grease, the official automotive grease of NASCAR, is an advanced full synthetic grease formulated with a proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks and a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart excellent extreme-pressure properties and resistance to water wash, rust and corrosion. The proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives reliable lubrication over wide temperature ranges -50 C (-58 F) to 246 C (475 F). Outstanding structural stability coupled with high performance synthetic base stoc USED IT FOR 35 YEARS. ZERO PROBLEMS.
That sounds like a commercial
It is what it is. Guys on here saying you must use extra special 30.00 a can special caliper grease. Blowing smoke up our asses..@@ozzstars_cars
Best way of doing this I have the same freakin problem with my 2011 scion xb and I found out because my break pads were wearing uneven.....my piston in the caliper is perfect so I found this issue.....and man it's a pain trying to get it out....so time for the flame thrower!!!!!🤌👍✌
🔥 wrench! 👍
Hi in this interesting vid you show the cleaning of the guide pins. why are they different from each other? that is, one pin is completely smooth and the other instead has a black coating as if it had a darker metal band around ? what is it for? Should the one with the metal band be at the top or bottom of the assembly? hi thanks for the answer
The black band is a rubber sleeve that acts is an anti rattle device, which prevents noise.
@@ozzstars_cars so whether it is mounted above or below makes no difference or is it better a specific position?
@iMarco M usually the smooth pin is at the top and what the caliper hangs on and swings up, the rubber bushing pin is at the bottom.
@@ozzstars_cars ok very kind! for your providential answers!!!!!!!
Happy Independence Day brother
Great video Glen
Worked like a charm
Thanks
On the heat part... how hot does it need to get? I got one stuck good and tight nothing is working so far.
time to get a new caliper
@@raccoon874 😂 exactly what I did in the end, after wasting a lot of time trying to free the darn thing.
Good stuff, Glen! 👍👍
Hope you had a great Independence Day. 🍻 Back to the grind today ...
Thanks Smitty. Nothing burned down and everyone still has all there fingers. Another successful 4th. 😁
@@ozzstars_cars - That's a successful mission there. Glad to hear that! 😁👍👍
Dude I couldn’t get my top caliper bolt out today . I tried everything I know . The bolt head is stripped now . What can I do to get this out ?? Actually I haven’t tried a real penetrate yet . Just WD 40 . Im gonna get some tomorrow and hopefully they have some type of wrench that will tighten down on head as I beat on it . What do you think
I did put some heat on it too . Maybe not enough . Had to be careful not to burn boot
At the very least you will need a new bolt but if it snaps off a new or used caliper bracket and slider bolt boot kit too.
Hello minds break can a machine shop rebulid it?