Torque twist and a few other issues is why I circled back to worm drive axles for my micro crawlers. The higher gear reduction in the worm drives lowers torque twist (amongst other advantages). Ring/pinion portal axles are a little better than non portals, but they have their own can of worms. I still think a Traxass UDR planetary style pinion is needed for the micro ring/pinion axles. It would increase gear reduction at the axle, lowering torque twist, and wouldn`t affect ground clearance. It would increase costs but I see other sites selling out of $150 micro axle sets regularly.
Great video! One of the main contributing factors to torque twist is how much of the total gear reduction is taking place in the differentials. The torque essentially has to make a 90 degree turn from the driveline to the wheels where the pinion gear meets the ring gear, and that torque reaction causes the twist. Example: As an experiment, I tried running the trail gears in the transmission with 16% underdrive in both axles, hoping to find a middle ground between the trail and crawler gears essentially. Compared to stock, the torque twist was dramatically worse. I've found that a healthy amount of overdrive is very effective in fighting twist. In my brushless tarantula build I have a total of about 25%, with 9% OD front and 16% UD rear. Any twist it has is so minimal as to be essentially undetectable. Still side hills great, seems to be the perfect amount of od/ud for a hardcore crawler/conp-ish build but I probably wouldn't go so aggressive with the gearing on a trail rig.
If you watch when the chassis is suspended it turns in the opposite direction from when the truck is on its wheels. So the effect of the motor spinning in the direction it is, helps in reducing the twist you see while it’s driving. Trucks like the UDR have a planetary gear reduction on the rear axle and that almost eliminates torque twist completely, as do worm gears previously mentioned. The suggestions you make in the video are great for reducing torque twist tho!
People packing Red and tacky and thicker grease in their diffs/transmission is a big part of the twist as well. I personally only use Protek white gear grease as it is smooth and thin.
counter rotating drive shafts help with this as well. But, as some mentioned, when you go from one axis of rotation and then re-route that rotation by 90degrees, that's where most problems are, and that's at the diffs. Other factors including gearing size and speed of the trans to the driveshaft to the diff also matter. The band aids you provided are good and will last, but there is also a cost in both money and performance of the rig. What i'm annoyed at is that in the past 2 years, with manufacturers each putting out so many rigs, they have not bothered to evolve and fix this; because it'll cost them more to redesign and re-manufacture new stock parts so instead they will pump out the band aids for us to keep their profits up instead of providing good products.
Your facts are correct The solution however is not applicable to live axles so we as solid axle loving hobbiests have to work around chassis fixed final drives or learn to accept independent suspension. Ill live with a bit of trq flex rather 😂
So glad you finally touched on this Adam. With my TRX4M K10, I got the Meus portal axles with the holmes hobbies motor, & have been trying to get rid of it some how! 🤨 Thanks dude! 💪🏻
I installed all 4 factory spring perch spacers on the passenger rear. Helped quite a bit with keeping my drivers front tire in contact while climbing. Its free so why not try it
I just got the Traxxas trx4m defender and love it. But out the box really bad torque twist. Fixed and now I'm fixing it up with extras so many lol wondering if you recommended a better tire than stock, thanks keep up the videos
I had to get pretty aggressive with the shock oils to eliminate torque twist on my trx4m f150 high trail. I went with hot racing shocks,80 weight oil,one stiff spring on the right rear and one stiff spring on the left front. No noticeable torque twist that i can see at all.
Came for the tips, stayed for the marriage advice. I get really bad twist on the gladiator so I'll be trying some of this out soon. Thanks for the rundown.
Im sorry but you are wrong with regards to the cause of torque twist. Torque twist are caused by the drive shaft thats fixed to a chassis mounted gearbox on the one side and suspension mounted axles on the other ends. Is your diffs was mounted to the chassis (independent suspension) it would transfer the twist straight to the chassis. It is a result of the input to the ring vs pinion ratio. The bigger the final drive ratio the less the torque twist, hence portal reduction reduce this affect. Your theory of sentrifugale force is correct but does not cause torque twist.
Anti roll or torsion bar, reversing front to rear drive shaft rotation or increasing final drive only lessens Torque twist, it will never eliminate it with a drive shaft to ring and pinion live axle. Only chassis mounted diff eliminate torque twist if the chassis is rigid to withstand the force.
Flip the motor around and run it ccw makes a good difference. I’m against messing about with the shocks unequally as it makes the truck handle unbalanced on one corner and you also loose articulation on one corner
with what is on the market now. what tires would you put on a ax24 64mm or 70mm swamp claws. i am going to put a torquebeast 3.0 and 33% underdrive and maybe the mofo stretched high clearance brass links,emax servos,steering links,front brass knuckles? whats your opinion how this future build would turn out?
I would still stick with the 64mm on that scale. 70mm will swallow that thing. For that truck I would look at the JConcepts Ruptures. I would HIGHLY recommend and ESC upgrade. Otherwise your list sounds great
The one thing that eliminated my torque twist was; Instead of putting two inner brass rings in the front tires, only use one on the torque twist side. That & I added weights to my sliders on the driver side. Worked like a charm!
That will effectively reduce the twist in one direction only, not eliminate it. The full size automotive industry has all the answers we are looking for.😊
I recently had a very crazy idea on the subject. I tied a thread to the axle where the suspension is. I ran the thread over the frame and connected it to the other axle on the same side. This on both sides offers full flex at any spring preload and eliminates 99% of tork twist. You just must not pinch the thread anywhere.
@@CapeCrawlers thx, i was suprised too. Once i Had the Idea and could Not Imagine that its that easy. But Than i did it at a orlandoo x01 and what should i say. Its Like Magic 😅 now i Run it complet without shocks 🤣 and No torktwist
Panhard length is the most common issue people have with torque twist. A lot of people change their ride heights and shock lengths and don't realize the panhard needs to be adjusted for it.
From what I hear (haven’t tried) the stock tires don’t play nice with many other wheels. Traxxas has released the method 1.0 wheels that will work. Those are nice but they’re pricey
Would too much overdrive cause torque twist? My Capra leans to driver side pretty bad under throttle…but it doesn’t do it on stand it’s a brand new build with 3 gear tranny. Everything seems to spin freely on stand
There are only really 2 things you can do to reduce body torque twist. 1-stiffer springs. 2-gear reduction WITHIN THE AXLE. (This reduces the torque experienced at the prop shaft aka body roll)
In my personal experience the overdrive/underdrive does not impact the twist that much. I guess it would depend on the ratios. I keep it pretty conservative.
If you want to see torque twist, hold the back wheels and apply slow throttle, see how the twist increases with more applied throttle though your motor and drive train is not spinning. RC scientific's first video is also wrong, that is inertia vectoring or centrifugal forces. Watch his second video, its closer to science but if you fill in his equations it will give the whole story.
@@CapeCrawlers thank you kindly! Building up my trx4m similar to yours as a lot of people are in sure. I’m so happy I decided to get into this hobby I grew up rock crawling and off roaring with my family. Now I have a little one on the way and can’t wait to get her hooked on crawling too!! Even tho that might be a bit!! I AM HOOKED!!
Great video. What you are showing with the hanging chassis is "dynamic" torque twist, which is less of a contributor on slow moving, high torque crawlers than "static" twist. This will challenge a lot of the comments made here, but worm gears, planetary gears, counter rotating and portals do not change the static torque twist. Only the total gear reduction from motor mount to contact patch matters. I attempt to explain it in these two video. Shock tuning, as you explain is one of the only ways to reduce twist in a shaft driven vehicle. Keep the tech videos coming! ruclips.net/video/KBDeGCc8NvA/видео.html studio.ruclips.net/user/video3lMzPAvUCEQ/edit
Timestamps
What is torque twist: 0:36
Tip 1: 1:54
Tip 2: 2:51
Tip 3: 4:50
Tip 4: 7:20
Tip 5: 10:07
Final thoughts additional info: 12:30
Torque twist and a few other issues is why I circled back to worm drive axles for my micro crawlers. The higher gear reduction in the worm drives lowers torque twist (amongst other advantages). Ring/pinion portal axles are a little better than non portals, but they have their own can of worms. I still think a Traxass UDR planetary style pinion is needed for the micro ring/pinion axles. It would increase gear reduction at the axle, lowering torque twist, and wouldn`t affect ground clearance. It would increase costs but I see other sites selling out of $150 micro axle sets regularly.
My Losi Nightcrawler is still Crawler king amongst my local competitors. Work Gears. Whish they made them metal though
Great video!
One of the main contributing factors to torque twist is how much of the total gear reduction is taking place in the differentials. The torque essentially has to make a 90 degree turn from the driveline to the wheels where the pinion gear meets the ring gear, and that torque reaction causes the twist.
Example: As an experiment, I tried running the trail gears in the transmission with 16% underdrive in both axles, hoping to find a middle ground between the trail and crawler gears essentially. Compared to stock, the torque twist was dramatically worse.
I've found that a healthy amount of overdrive is very effective in fighting twist. In my brushless tarantula build I have a total of about 25%, with 9% OD front and 16% UD rear. Any twist it has is so minimal as to be essentially undetectable. Still side hills great, seems to be the perfect amount of od/ud for a hardcore crawler/conp-ish build but I probably wouldn't go so aggressive with the gearing on a trail rig.
If you watch when the chassis is suspended it turns in the opposite direction from when the truck is on its wheels. So the effect of the motor spinning in the direction it is, helps in reducing the twist you see while it’s driving. Trucks like the UDR have a planetary gear reduction on the rear axle and that almost eliminates torque twist completely, as do worm gears previously mentioned. The suggestions you make in the video are great for reducing torque twist tho!
People packing Red and tacky and thicker grease in their diffs/transmission is a big part of the twist as well. I personally only use Protek white gear grease as it is smooth and thin.
Dont add resistance.with a super thick grease designed for full size vehicles
counter rotating drive shafts help with this as well.
But, as some mentioned, when you go from one axis of rotation and then re-route that rotation by 90degrees, that's where most problems are, and that's at the diffs. Other factors including gearing size and speed of the trans to the driveshaft to the diff also matter.
The band aids you provided are good and will last, but there is also a cost in both money and performance of the rig.
What i'm annoyed at is that in the past 2 years, with manufacturers each putting out so many rigs, they have not bothered to evolve and fix this; because it'll cost them more to redesign and re-manufacture new stock parts so instead they will pump out the band aids for us to keep their profits up instead of providing good products.
Your facts are correct
The solution however is not applicable to live axles so we as solid axle loving hobbiests have to work around chassis fixed final drives or learn to accept independent suspension. Ill live with a bit of trq flex rather 😂
If your gearbox/rear diff allows it, you can reverse the rotation of the rear axle - worth doing on the Hobby Plus Evo Pro.
What about full droop with inner springs or rubber bands. Also overdrive....
Thank you for your great contents of your channel 👍
So glad you finally touched on this Adam. With my TRX4M K10, I got the Meus portal axles with the holmes hobbies motor, & have been trying to get rid of it some how! 🤨 Thanks dude! 💪🏻
This was so helpful in understanding this subject. Awesome to reallly understand stand the changes we can do to help with this.
Thanks for this information on torque twist. I keep learning new things from your channel, great video as always Adam. Thanks 👍🏼👍🏼😎
Thank you for this. Very helpful. Just bought mine today and that was the first thing I noticed.
I installed all 4 factory spring perch spacers on the passenger rear. Helped quite a bit with keeping my drivers front tire in contact while climbing. Its free so why not try it
I just got the Traxxas trx4m defender and love it. But out the box really bad torque twist. Fixed and now I'm fixing it up with extras so many lol wondering if you recommended a better tire than stock, thanks keep up the videos
I had to get pretty aggressive with the shock oils to eliminate torque twist on my trx4m f150 high trail. I went with hot racing shocks,80 weight oil,one stiff spring on the right rear and one stiff spring on the left front. No noticeable torque twist that i can see at all.
Amazing video! Your content is quickly becoming my favorite
Came for the tips, stayed for the marriage advice. I get really bad twist on the gladiator so I'll be trying some of this out soon. Thanks for the rundown.
Im sorry but you are wrong with regards to the cause of torque twist.
Torque twist are caused by the drive shaft thats fixed to a chassis mounted gearbox on the one side and suspension mounted axles on the other ends. Is your diffs was mounted to the chassis (independent suspension) it would transfer the twist straight to the chassis.
It is a result of the input to the ring vs pinion ratio. The bigger the final drive ratio the less the torque twist, hence portal reduction reduce this affect.
Your theory of sentrifugale force is correct but does not cause torque twist.
Anti roll or torsion bar, reversing front to rear drive shaft rotation or increasing final drive only lessens Torque twist, it will never eliminate it with a drive shaft to ring and pinion live axle.
Only chassis mounted diff eliminate torque twist if the chassis is rigid to withstand the force.
You are the only person that makes good rc content in my opinion keep making videos plz
Great video! Question what is your preferred servo? For a Trx4m. Thanks
Thank you for the tips!
Yes! Torque twist is like that annoying habit from your spouse… Love that.
Thank you so much this helped so much!
Flip the motor around and run it ccw makes a good difference. I’m against messing about with the shocks unequally as it makes the truck handle unbalanced on one corner and you also loose articulation on one corner
with what is on the market now. what tires would you put on a ax24 64mm or 70mm swamp claws. i am going to put a torquebeast 3.0 and 33% underdrive and maybe the mofo stretched high clearance brass links,emax servos,steering links,front brass knuckles? whats your opinion how this future build would turn out?
I would still stick with the 64mm on that scale. 70mm will swallow that thing. For that truck I would look at the JConcepts Ruptures. I would HIGHLY recommend and ESC upgrade. Otherwise your list sounds great
Would the 70mm swampclaws just be to much for the motor and servos? also what esc do you recommend
The one thing that eliminated my torque twist was; Instead of putting two inner brass rings in the front tires, only use one on the torque twist side. That & I added weights to my sliders on the driver side.
Worked like a charm!
That will effectively reduce the twist in one direction only, not eliminate it. The full size automotive industry has all the answers we are looking for.😊
@@ja_co_bus650 I only have torque twist in one direction, so yes it eliminated it!
I recently had a very crazy idea on the subject. I tied a thread to the axle where the suspension is. I ran the thread over the frame and connected it to the other axle on the same side. This on both sides offers full flex at any spring preload and eliminates 99% of tork twist. You just must not pinch the thread anywhere.
Genius!
@@CapeCrawlers thx, i was suprised too. Once i Had the Idea and could Not Imagine that its that easy. But Than i did it at a orlandoo x01 and what should i say. Its Like Magic 😅 now i Run it complet without shocks 🤣 and No torktwist
I don't get it - do you have a video about it?
Cheers 🤙
Thanks for the helpful information.
really good idea for a video, so close to 100k!!!!!! congratz!!!!!!
Thank you! Should hit it by the end of the month I think!
Panhard length is the most common issue people have with torque twist. A lot of people change their ride heights and shock lengths and don't realize the panhard needs to be adjusted for it.
The TRX4M has a panhard bar?
sway bar
Or use it to your advantage on tough climbs. I start the climb with the wheel it torques towards to get some starting traction.
This has nothing to due with torque twist but, what beadlock wheels can i use with the stock tires (Baja Pro Xs) for the High trail?
From what I hear (haven’t tried) the stock tires don’t play nice with many other wheels. Traxxas has released the method 1.0 wheels that will work. Those are nice but they’re pricey
Would too much overdrive cause torque twist? My Capra leans to driver side pretty bad under throttle…but it doesn’t do it on stand it’s a brand new build with 3 gear tranny. Everything seems to spin freely on stand
12:38. Well said brother.
There are only really 2 things you can do to reduce body torque twist. 1-stiffer springs. 2-gear reduction WITHIN THE AXLE. (This reduces the torque experienced at the prop shaft aka body roll)
Btw smaller dia tires also increases the gear reduction and the torque in the prop shaft.
Hi love your channel ! Do you do the oil and preload just on the back shocks ? Thank you !
Don't know if it helps but overdrive the front or underdrive the rear might work? Idk.
In my personal experience the overdrive/underdrive does not impact the twist that much. I guess it would depend on the ratios. I keep it pretty conservative.
Does torktwist infect performance?
Buy the heaviest brass beadlock wheels! It keeps an otherwise stock trx4m incredibly planted.
Great video!
counter rotating shaft option like the Hobby plus cr18 evo pro has is an option?
Yes, absolutely for that model
Hairties can be also a cheap trick reduce torque twist.
If you want to see torque twist, hold the back wheels and apply slow throttle, see how the twist increases with more applied throttle though your motor and drive train is not spinning.
RC scientific's first video is also wrong, that is inertia vectoring or centrifugal forces. Watch his second video, its closer to science but if you fill in his equations it will give the whole story.
Hey Adam or viewers what’s your go to 3s battery for trx4m?
I use the Spektrum 300mah 3s
@@CapeCrawlers thank you kindly! Building up my trx4m similar to yours as a lot of people are in sure. I’m so happy I decided to get into this hobby I grew up rock crawling and off roaring with my family. Now I have a little one on the way and can’t wait to get her hooked on crawling too!! Even tho that might be a bit!! I AM HOOKED!!
What if you have the Injora flex blades?
Shouldn't impact anything
Great video. What you are showing with the hanging chassis is "dynamic" torque twist, which is less of a contributor on slow moving, high torque crawlers than "static" twist. This will challenge a lot of the comments made here, but worm gears, planetary gears, counter rotating and portals do not change the static torque twist. Only the total gear reduction from motor mount to contact patch matters. I attempt to explain it in these two video. Shock tuning, as you explain is one of the only ways to reduce twist in a shaft driven vehicle. Keep the tech videos coming!
ruclips.net/video/KBDeGCc8NvA/видео.html
studio.ruclips.net/user/video3lMzPAvUCEQ/edit
Tip 6: run portal axles
rear sway bar!
Try a rear sway bar
where can you find sway bars?
Isn't the most important thing having a gearbox with counter rotating axles? All those tips are just bandaids
12:37, oof.
No one makes a sway bar or a torque bar for these?