How To Remove A Broken Bolt From An Engine
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- How To Remove A Broken Bolt From An Engine
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I could live to be 10,000 years old, and never in person see one come out this easily.
I have actually never succeeded in getting a broken screw out with this kind of extractor. If the screw broke when you tried to loosen it then you can forget it. But we do not know why this particular screw broke.
Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket?
@@donyboy73 Too late, my man! You done used up all your good luck already!
Lmfao. Totally agree. Never seen an extractor of any kind work.
@@Drottninggatan2017I agree. As you tighten the extractor it tends to expand the bolt shaft locking it in even tighter. I've had better luck with the hammer-in bladed type extractors. They only work on softer metals though.
To get the centre more accurately, use a drill bit that will fit the tapped hole and drill into the broken bolt a little. This will give you the centre.
I'll try that next time!
Thank you for not editing out the problem with the centre punch, makes me feel better I am not the only one.
I spent 25 years in the maintenance business at a ABB factory that short screw would be pretty easy. Easy outs are pretty simple. I like how you show this process and make it simple.
Don This is The Snap On Stud Extractor Set I Told You About. I've Been An Auto Mechanic Since 1973 And Worked For VW And Audi For 33 Years. I Used This Kit To Remove Hundreds Of Broke Exhaust Studs . There Are Lots of Them For Sale On Ebay Or On The Snap On Truck Best Wishes . Blue-Point Screw Extractor Set No. E-1020.
I have had some success finding the center on a bolt that is broken but not flat on top by putting a hole sized o-ring in the bolt hole and then putting the punch point in the o-ring center hole to stabilize the punch somewhat. It saves some frustration.
Great tips and tool review. Thank you so much Mr. Don!!! You have been a lifesaver since I started viewing your videos years ago!!! Stay well and safe.
I have a couple bolt extraction kits, but never had much luck with them. Great job, Don. Thanks
Never saw one come so easy! I put grease on the drill bit to hold metal bits from going into Crankcase. Oil change recommended and magnet probe. Drilling too large thins the wall of the broken piece and the Easy out of that type simply spreads the stud making it more difficult. I like the Rectangular easyouts with sharp corners.
Some times it is better to be lucky than skilled... I'll always take an easy to remove broken bolt any day! Thumbs Up!
Nice job Don! Thanks for the tool suggestions.
Awesome job on the extracting on bolt THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
Good video Dony! Thanks for all the good info you put out, it is greatly appreciated! Hello from North Carolina! Stay warm!
Thanks, you too!
great segment. thanks for sharing.
Some of the comments provided value added insight… My father went through a tool and die maker apprenticeship in the ‘50s, worked in a model shop and directed machinests in the ‘60s and I learned tricks from him. There were a few tricks in the comments I hadn’t heard before. Cool!
while its best to use a smaller drill bit at first its actually better to use the biggest one you can as long as it wont contact the casing. its also great using the left hand twist drills because most of the time going up through each size the broken stud will just come out with the drill. then there is no chance of breaking the easyout...
You were extremely fortunate with that removal. This is an example of the exception rather than the rule ! 😮😂
Got lucky on that one. The next one or two will get even with you. You should use a T-handle like a breakover bar that has a sliding handle. T-handles distribute the force better. Ratchets put the force more on one side....if you have the room and you did.
Thank you Donnie for this video I appreciate everything you do
I really enjoy your videos, Donnie thank you
Thank Don, best tutorial I have watched, I will be happy to use my extractor tools now, Cheers
Yeah, that came out a lot better than I figured it would...good job. Thanks for sharing.
Love that you didn't edit this - this is exactly the sort of issues that the rest of us 'normal folk' have. Great video
Much of what you share is stuff I've learned over my... ahem... many years - how to do things easier and more effectively. The other, larger part is stuff that it would have taken me more years (more years than I have left) :-) to learn. I'm sure you have saved your viewers tens of thousands of hours and hundreds of thousands of dollars. Keep up the good work.
Wow 😳. That came out easy. Nice. Ive actually broke off my extractor in the bolt im trying to get out before. That sucks. Great video. Thanks for sharing this with us
Thanks Dony
Great video don keep up the great work
Very nice!
Thanks Don.
Hvala na vrlo korisnom prilogu.Pozdrav iz Vojvodine...
Nice work nice job👍
You did Great. I refer to these as 'lucky' outs.
For recessed snaps with some thread to screw into, a bolt that's been precision pre -drilled in the center works well as a drill guide. There's a chance that the bolt has a jagged surface, so even with the punch, the drill might still wander.
Thanks for the tip!
I've seen 'dummy' bolt sets with the hole exactly in the center. I'm not sure what they are called. If you have a drill press and a machinist vice, you can make your own from the same diameter bolt stock or rod.
Good job buddy
Nice work dude 😊😊
Let me tell ya something, you got lucky. I had an engine mounting bolt break off and it about killed me to get to the finish line. Nice work Don👍
Good work Don, keep the videos coming.
More to come!
Great Video Donny
Thanks 👍
👍👍👍.Thanks Donny
That was way too easy. I thought for sure that is was going to be a lot more difficult than that! Thanks for showing that to us!
Good timing for this video. I just had a head bolt snap off on a Tecumseh Snow King. Welding a washer/nut failed so I just drilled it and put in a Helicoil. I bought a kit last year that I’ve been looking for an excuse to use.
Right on!
You got lucky on that one, great video.
What is your preferred method of removing broken self tapping engine mounting bolts, Don? The Briggs and Stratton push mower engines usually have one of three that is seized in the aluminum and breaks.
Do yourself a favor. When you finally get them out, for God’s sake replace them with a machine screw of correct pitch and anti-seize if they are a repeat customer
To get an accurate Centre mark..hammer a Nail in slightly and then try the Punch..worked for me...
Nice 👍🏼
Very cool
Using a small easy-out also tends to expand the bolt less but is also more fragile.
😀Thanks!
Thanks for your support!
A transfer punch the same diameter as the bolt will do a much better job of setting that starter point more easily and accurately.
Using a left hand rotating bit is the answer, IF you spin it slowly until the hole is underway you should no problems. Good job!
I did not know the tip starting reverse with the drill and then drill normally...thanks for that.
These were reverse drill bits, they will only drill in reverse but you can use regular drill bits if you don't have these.
Magnific
Thanks Don. I have better luck when I can soak those in PB Blaster for an hour.
Great job. I dont think anyone looks forward to a broken bolt extraction. It can be very tedious and frustrating. I'm glad your job turned out drama-free.
Nice work, you got lucky indeed! Your most important advice: don't force/put too much pressure on those extractors! You got a real mess on your hands if the extractor breaks off in the bolt...
nice;y done, got a link to those tap holders?
I’ve never had one work that easy.
Interesting, thanks. I'm surprised you didn't apply some heat after drilling and before trying to extract. Even if you let cool a lot before trying to extract. But what works, works... :)
Looked like that old bolt had been crossthreaded (or just over torqued?), I'm surprised the threads in the block are still good.
Yes sometimes I heat them if I feel the extractor will break
I have had the best luck removing lawn mower engines from rusted out or damaged decks by heating the exposed threads that come through the engine plus using penetrating oil. Also just turning the bolt very slowly works best for me until it breaks loose. The welding over the broken bolt is what I’ve seen to work best then welding a nut on top usually does the trick. Lots of patience helps 😊.
Mig does work well Don, the aluminum acts as a heat sink and steel wire wont stick to the aluminum as well as the added heat
helps to loosen the bolt.Lucky break on that one!!
Great info! My first instinct would to put some penetrating oil on the bolt prior to extraction to help the process. Any reason not to?
Dony, There are tools called Vix Bits that will automatically center a starter hole in that situation. They are made for starting holes for door hinges but should work for your type of situation as well. They come in 3-4 sizes and I'm not completely sure the biggest would be big enough for that bolt (3/8"?), but I've often found it difficult to get an accurate center punch on a bolt and the closer to actual center, the better the extractor will work. I love the idea of the ratchet mounted extractor. I once had to remove a bolt under a car and had to keek sliding the handle back and forth because there was not room to spin it in a complete circle. This would have saved me 10-15 annoying minutes
Your skill is high.
Donny do you have a link to the Irwin square to hex adapter. I found the Norseman extractor bits and saw your review.
They are on Amazon
I never get that lucky
Now Donnie don't laugh at me but I'm going to tell you what when you first started drilling I actually blew out the shavings sorry I'm laughing I can't help it
@@johnmote1137 I kind of felt stupid after I did it but yeah kind of figured it was okay though
What is the typical length of these bolts ?
I have a situation exactly like this on a snowblower acquired recently for resale. I’m usedto freeing stripped out hardware occasionally on machinery I work on so I have the easy outs already. Also trick is apply a little penetrating fluid to the bolt /hole first, it will Break the dissimilar metal bite between aluminum block and steel bolt.
When I centerpunch things like this bolt I use a High speed steel pointed machine screw tap. Hard and always sharp. Wear the safety glasses because the tap might shatter.
The cutting oil and the vibration from.punch must have helped it
Good day Dony Interesting video But when I heard something snap I thought extractor broke
Thanks
You and me both!
Gee, don't you just hate it when they come out easily? 😂 Seriously, I will look forward to seeing a follow up video with your other method. Cheers from near Ottawa.
haha yes!
I think this bolt DID come out quite easily. I've never had one come out that easily. The one step I'd add would be, after drilling the hole, hit it with some penetrating oil, and let it sit for a half hour or so. Then try to extract it.
P B Blaster is some amazing stuff! Broken bolts...manifold bolts...any thing that is gonna be difficult to extract!
I am going to invest in a set of transfer punches, I never get the centre
How do you do that on a tecumseh motor?
Come on Dony! They never come out that easy! Just joking. That second when the bolt breaks loose with that snap makes me catch my breath hoping it was the bolt and not the tap breaking.
Same here!
You would probably make a good dentist.
I use my own rust remover first which is one half acetone and one half trani fluid and leave it sit overnight and a lot of times it will come out just using just the reverse drill bit !
I'll try that!
Can somebody provide me a link for that Viking tool. I'm having a tough time finding it on Amazon
"The extractor will break."
True, too true.
Then to replace it... ££££
Not to mention the trouble with getting it out.
👍
When I worked for Audi the cars with the 5 Cylinder engines always broke exhaust studs on the ends . Number 1 and Number 5 Cylinder. I repaired hundreds of cars with this problem. I used The snap On stud extractor kit. It comes with centering bushings so you don't even need to use a center punch.Just Drill. That kit never ever Failed me. It even comes with the drill bits
I should get that kit!
There's a reason why this bolt broke. You've been fortunate with this one.
Don get a set of transter punches, always centered then
More hits than ELVIS Dony 😂
Next time you should get the replacement bolts and compare length before you drill. You drilled straight through the end of the bolt into the block. It might have worked out this time but it might not next time
You must be living right, that was a dream extraction!
Rarely is it that easy!
@@donyboy73
Believe me, I know! I once broke my extractor in a crankshaft seal bolt. The only access to it was through the crankshaft flange that the propellor bolts to. I burned up 20 cobalt drill bits and 4+ hours getting the extractor and bolt remnants out. In the end it was all good but that 4+ hours felt like 2 weeks!
@@upsidedowndog1256 That was a job from hell!
Where did you purchase the equipment you used ?
Amazon
Parts # for extractor and extractor rachet adapters
@@joeanthonyavitia9301 Scroll though video description, I just added them!
I have tried to use an extractor a few times without any success. I end up drilling the whole thing out.
Once you’ve endured the pain of a broken extractor, you’ll throw them in the bin where they belong.
Quick. Go buy a lottery ticket. Ya got the luck today!
Better lucky than good
yeah, that was way to easy to extract that bolt out.... some are a nightmare to get out... Easy out is kind of hit and miss, but seems like you got it out pretty easy.
@donyboy73 Is this particular engine made in China or the US?
China
Don sound like Sgt. Kerry Schmidt when I close my eyes
A chisel in an X to find the center
Use a vacume not compressed air.
Onko tällä työkalulla numeroa?...greetings from Finland
www.amazon.ca/Norseman-Screw-Remover-Super-Premium/dp/B0036YW6WC/ref=sr_1_35?crid=1PER8I1MZIHM2&keywords=viking+drill+and+tool&qid=1706229625&sprefix=viking+drill+and+tool%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-35
Why not use a welder with a washer and nut technique to remove the bolt out.
If it hadn't come out I would have done that.
I never use this method. I weld a nut to it. Been doing it for over 20 years. Even below the surface.
A drill the size of the bolt hole first would have given you a center .
Mine are not broken so I just need to buy a tap and die set to fix the threads but I’m broke and poor so if any of you know a good cheapish set I’d love the feed back 😂