2008 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0T- A/C Blows Warm
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- in this video we are working on a 2008 vw jetta with a 2.0T engine, the customer complaint is that the vehicle air conditioning system blows warm air, in this video I would like to show you how to diagnose this system using a scantool looking at trouble codes and data pids, more importantly how to reference one data pid that is extremely helpful and on to using a basic A/C manifold gauge set to check and verify static pressure, I hope you enjoy this video and thanks for watching.
Wow. I just did your test and found my leak immediately. And under vacuum… it held! But not under pressure. Awesome new idea you taught me.
At the end of the video, gauges still showing 50 psi,indicating no leak! :) Thanks for sharing.
I love the VW/Audi Air Con PID's. Those Pressure Sensors sure are problematic for leaks and sensor failure. I replaced 4 last summer and always have 1 in stock. Nice work 👍
For me a diyer this idea of compressed air as a diagnostic tool is great , and if it's put under vacume before filling ... On a system that's been empty of refrigerant... the chances of having any negative effect must be next to 0 ! Great video !
I like your trouble shooting method using compressed air to find leaks. But without seeing clutch movement I think that this procedure should include gauges on and comp on to see first of all if comp is trying to press up system and pumping. Bottom line is this will save folks money 💰. It's a great diy. Thanks.
Man they give you a ton of data pertaining to the AC compressor operation in there! I'm glad you cleared up what that "3" digit meant in the compressor status data PID, totally didn't know that before! Thanks for bringing us all this fine footage on these euro's man, I always learn something new.
Cool video. I didn't realize the scan tool gave that much data for AC. Thanks!
Nice work Tom on the thought process of going through the diagnostics. And great info on the scanner to show the a/c pids! One tip that I've used on locating leaks is to use an ultrasonic leak detector which works very well.
stuzman Where can I purchase one?
Awesome job Sir! I've seen Paul use this method but you performed it very efficiently and showed a perfect example. Well done. I'm planning on taking my first stab at servicing my own A/C system this summer and this will definitely help. Thanks Tom!
Nice video ! I'm going to screen grab those compressor codes lol as we work on a lot of Vag cars and always wondered what the numbers meant . Used compressed air for several years and never had a problem . It's a very efficient and cost free way to troubleshoot a/c
The air trick is fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
You can take a look if you can see oil residue and there is you leak/s or hear also if its not a small leak, anyway the soapy water is what almost everyone use so great video and diagnose.
Very informative - thanks very much. Bob Hulen
Yes danner and you are doing some cost effective perfect diagnostic techniques 💌
right on tom i got a 02 gti so i will be watching you close for all my vw info lol
Good work i liked all your video , i learned many thing from you thank you and keep going. you also can use an old refrigerant compressor for compressing and evacuation of ac circuit this compressor can comperes for about 300 psi
Great video very helpfull thanks for posting. All the best from England. 😊👍👍
Nice job thanks for sharing I saw danner do this and forgot about it it’s a great test keep the videos coming love them
Guys, I want to thank you for sharing all this information. This is my case.
I have a 2002 Beetle. When I turn on the AC on the fan position I could see the AC light turn on and can feel the compressor kicking in. BUT, when I move the position of the button to 1, 2, 3, or 4 the AC light shuts off and the air is fan air and not cold air.
I did this
1. Check the battery fuses (they are not melted) and change the position on them to make sure they were ok.
2. Bought a Fan Control Module and changed it.
I still have the exact same situation. AC light is on in the fan position, but then after hitting 1, 2, 3 and 4, it shuts off and no cold air.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Good easy test to check for leaks.
The receiver drier is for sure saturated with moisture, you will never get all of the moisture you just induced out of there. Nitrogen is your friend when checking ac leaks.
good video good review for the coming months a/c season is here
thanks to scannerdanner i found ur channel.good stuff man
Don't use compressed air, use dry nitrogen for pressure testing, compressed air might introduce contaminants into the system and cause other problems.
I was taught to use ofn aswell. but now I think about it, if the system is already been open to atmosphere and driven through some puddles or whatever and has moisture in the system. then adding any moisture while not ideal, should be fine. as long as you hold a vacuum for a good hour before charging.
Its not so much the moisture but the oil carried in the air and the dirt if the filtration isn't very good, vaccing down won't remove that and it might cause problems later on.
I like to use a rubber tipped air chuck and blow directly into the low side service port and keep the high side gauge connected. the air will go past the valve and it will self-seal when I let go of the trigger so I don't have to close a valve.
Excellent! Thanks for the education!!!!!!
NICE one TOMMy, thanks for sharing.cheeeeeeers
That is a great idea, do not have to go through the bs charging cycle with the ac machine and waste 20 minutes only to find there is a leak.
Gd test great test
Thank you! It is really helpful.
Dude you ROCK!!! Thanks.
you and scanner Danner sound alike ? lol very informative great job
Great work,thanks for sharing
Alright 100% legit way to work on the street without making 2 much of a big mess or hassle
Awesome video man!
Nice mechanic
VW
Nice work Tom
theres couple of step to do the a?c
if every thing works but is not getting colder check your pressure switch or you need to recharge your freon leaking
but if the comopressor dont work at all it might be stock and you will need a new now if everyhing is good but still not clod check your blower under the compartment now if the issue your a?c is loud noise it migth clogged issue or bearing ang your pipe is getting so wet and moisted this just base on my experience
Yes great video keep them coming plz
this just turned into a engine detaling vid :P
Nice Tommy !
Where do you find those off codes. Can you use Identifix or Mitchell to find the list of code's. Nice video by the way.
Stellar job!
nice find👍
Have 2010 Jetta 2.5 mk5 and Level I’ll check the fuses office is good but I still know how the power and the positive cable connect to the compressor what else I can check I’ll replace the relay inside car Do you think is gonna be the control AC panel the one inside because I push the button for the AC on and not doing nothing I’ll push it off and let’s continue Johnson didn’t do nothing and I still don’t have power in the positive cable
good video. I got code 16. related to n280 in the compressor. Question is. Code 16 refer to circuit problem or performance problem in n280?
Nice video, dude!
good test gotta vacum anyway !!
Hi Thanks for the video,I will like to know which scanner were use it.? thanks
Great diagnostic and fix. So does this test with air, later create more moisture in cabin when using AC? About that status codes, did you get them from repair manual, or is it described somewhere in Elsawin?
nice tommy
Hai.. my car is vw jetta 1.9 tdi mk5 2008 dsg having same type of compressor.. problem is when i turn on ac its not cooling immediately some time in sunny days.. after few min like 10 to 12 min its turing on cooling... While driving car also its stoping cooling automatic and turing on cooling .. it self.. what is the problem.. everything is ok looks like but problem is not identified and its irritating me q lot.. pls help. Me out my broo
all vid best
did you going to replace the receiver/dryer? if not what's your out look on it
thanks great
hey brother
00457 - Control Module for Network (J519)
013 - Check DTC Memory
its a 2008 jetta with a 2.0fsi non turbo engine any thoughts tried changing the control valve on the compressor still nothing compressor does not come on when trying to recharge the system. this code is stored in the hvac and comfort control module.
Where Ca I get that tester??
nice. Video. tech. exselecte diagnostic. saludes. noelmatute
What is the compressor type or part code
cool way to find a leak
refrigerant should not be at cero, meaning pressure minute 3
Great video!! Thank you! My mk4 has the exact same problem. Any thoughts on what I should do to repair it
If it's leaking from the sensor. Then you would replace the sensor and evac / recharge the system. I think those sensors have a shrader valve underneath but maybe safer evacuating the system first
Positive Lead Diagnostics it's definitley leaking from the sensor. Do you know if I can pull the part from a junk yard or the high pressure + o ring makes that a counterproductive idea. (Context: broke college student)
You can probably get it from a junk yard. But remember it's from a junk yard. I don't know how expensive those psi sensors are. You are probably better off getting a new one with a new o-ring
What diagnostic computer did you use on this?
safety third!
Hi where did you got that chart with codes definitions where can I get a copy ?
how did you check to see if the evap core had a leak or the hard to reach spots
He didn't, we are just going to assume that the switch was the problem LOL :)
Where is the "assumption", he showed the fix?
Shut up Raf, the whole world know's your the biggest shade tree mechanic there ever was.
Do I get an award with that?
I have Toyota corolla gli ac trip same time same work comprsar new what is problem please
I have a 08 GTI and my A/C blows intermittently. I noticed if it's 90+ degrees outside, the A/C doesn't blow cold but if it's below that temperature it works fine. Any thoughts? I remember have that pressure switch shown on the video replaced like 3 years ago.
any faults or compressor off codes? do you have a set of gauges to see what the pressures are?
no faults or codes. I'm using the gauge that came with the can of freon from the auto parts store. It can only read the low side pressure and it is in the acceptable range, given the ambient temperature. Right now I have an AC compressor solenoid valve and pressure switch on order. Which part do you think I should start replacing first? Or just do both at the same time? Oh and I injected some dye yesterday and no leaks were found.
Do you have climate control? If so it has a diagnostic mode which will tell you all sorts including refrigerant pressure and compressor shut down codes for free.
So a leak can cause it to blow warm air?
If it leaks all of the refrigerant out of the system, yes.
is that a snap on scanner?
Hope the Customer did not have to pay for you playing with the Scan Tool. :)
you think this is playing?
While I was was joking with him hence the smile!! The scan tool was an unnecessary step, He did that to demonstrate, I'm sure . If you got something to say go ahead and say it.
It's all good. Customer paid the 1hr diagnostic fee there were no extra charges. I just wanted to show you guys other ways to attack this ac system
I knew that, was just playing with you, that's why there is a smiley at the end of the comment. And immediately you have some jokers get all would up.
It's all good. I saw the smile. Hard to tell through text. No big deal
Adding Air is Never a Good Idea. Small Tank of Compressed Nitrogen will last a long time if that is the rout you use to test for leaks. Most Air compressors produce massive amounts of moisture that is trapped in the air and it is rare to see a Shop that has a Moisture Separator. After-coolers and Refrigeration units work but don't get rid of all the water. Nitrogen on the other Hand pushes moisture and does not deposit any moisture inside the system. Today's modern Recovery & Recharge Systems claim to check for moisture when evacuating the system but I still don't think that is fool proof.
But still a nice Video!!
The Receiver/Drier will most likely take care of the moisture that may be introduced into the system.
OK! Keep on doing it that way then. Or better yet, read a book about AC Repair.
In theory true, in reality with the air and moisture that is already in there ?
No argument, but think of it like this, what would you rather clean up the cup of coffee you spilled or the pot of coffee you spilled. I used shop air for 15 Years to do the exact same thing and I would do so again if I ran out of Nitrogen but you must know what is going to come out of your air hose!! Other contaminants coming from an air hose factor into this as well, an example would be tiny particles of rust traveling from the tank true the air hose or what about the oil that can be present in the lines.
@@ralfsautomotive so put a napkin between air nozzle and AC manifold hose should take care of that?
What model scan tool are you using
Snap On Verus Pro
9 out of 10 times condencer is to blame and it's on high presure side and yes no good idea to put air in... :-) my vw was ok for one season but this summer I get shut off number 16 something to do with g280 valve..sold car like this so don't know what it was
presure sensor whitch I replaced last summer go in peases.. good video anyway
I just need a 3000 dollar scanner now
Says the cabin temp is almost 90°F
ahahahahahahahaha with water :D
Boring
Lol