Noga Joe. G'day Joe, back again, so quick. I had too much clearance and it showed up when power feed was engaged and when taking a facing cut, Jeremy offers some good advice on the clearance. Yes 5/8 key stock and all thread makes a good drive dog, you'll see mine in the Steady Rest video. Cheers Peter
Peter, thanks for the tip on finding it. So what is the clearance on yours? Do you think the .005 on mine is too much? Noga, that's it. I need one of those! I have some key stock so I think I will go that route just so i can turn between centers. Joe
My Heap on the subject of aliment of machine tools do a search for Schlessinger tolerances he literally wrote the book on the subject and it's out of copyright now so you can find it for free if your net savvy
Joe, No problem to add a little packing underneath the AXA tool post block to raise it up over the compound casting. I had the same concern of keeping the lathe original. I used an Amana shaper bushing 1/2" x 3/4" with wide flange and turned it down to accept the post bolt and slot of the compound. Of course I had to use the rocker tool post to do it. Your new tool holder will be a great improvement and easier and faster to change tooling. You'll love it.
Steven, thanks for that bit of info. So you don't feel like you lost anything by putting it on the packing? I am getting excited. Funny thing, I realized after I posted the video, that I said I only had the tail stock to do, but then realized I still have to clean and install the lead screw. :-D
I also had this problem, and I too was concerned about keeping it original but I wanted the tool post to sit flat on the compound so I put my compound in the shaper and shaved it back about 3/4", actually looks like it was made that way now, worked out very nice. As far as the clamping, nut I just made a new one for it instead of trying to machine the one that came with the axa tool post. And also goes without saying this is by far one of the best improvements you can make to this lathe, or just about any lathe for that matter.
Hey Joe, wish I could tell you what the required play is in the saddle. I checked it by lifting the saddle, and sliding a feeler gauge under the sliding surface. Don't remember what I measured at. The way I ended up doing it was taking away. 002" at a time till i started binding when slid the lengnth of the way. Then added a thou till it slid nice. Mine is a little tight tward the tail as my ways are slightly warn up near the headstock. I don't do much long work so this works best for me. I could machine that nut for you if you want. Or, if you know what the size and thread pitch of your stud is, I could make you a completely separate one. May take a week or two if I don't have the right size tap and have to order one.
Jeremy, thanks for the tip!! The stud is M14 x 1.5. Either way would be fine with me. I can send you the nut or you can make a new one. Will be happy to pay you for your time. Richard asked me for a drawing of the nut. I sent him one but have not heard anything back yet. Joe
Joe, .005 is too much, aim for 1 thou but it will be a compromise because the bed will have worn sections where mostly used and good sections with no wear, like under the tailstock which you can ignore. I had 2 in the mills carriage and had to reduce it so I could bore the spindle housing successfully, ok, ok alot of stick out with the boring bar but it does matter, by the way a Coke can is 4 thou. Cheers
Thanks Peter. I think I have a pack of brass shim stock somewhere ... If I can find it. I bought it when I started the Gingery Lathe. Will definitely keep the pop can thickness in mind! Great Tip, Also I think heavy duty aluminum foil is in the neighborhood of 3 thou. Joe
So, I'm curious, what did you find regarding the slop at the back of the carriage? I was very interested in hearing these findings as I have a TH54 10X36 quick change and this one item I have never checked on mine. Just curious, thanks for sending.
Just a note, I made my measurements with the saddle moved towards the tailstock end of the bed where there is less wear. I know you would want some clearence but am not sure how much. It would also be an interesting test to set the indicator on the back of the saddle and take a good facing cut to see if it actually deflects. Best of luck and let me know your findings. Joe
Hi Steve, I thought I would do the 4 Jaw first for a couple of reasons. First, the backplate for it will be a simpler job than the three jaw, and ... even though I will do my best to make it as concentric as possible, if it is slightly out it isn't the end of the world since they are independent jaws. Second, as I understand it, it is more versatile than the three jaw even though it could take longer to set the work up. Nice to have another geek on board. I am primarily a network guy, but a one man shop for the Hospital I work for. How about you? Joe
I went to school primarily for networking. Was hired at a hospital 20 years ago and have been a jack of all trades since. I have done a little programming over the years. I started with CBM Basic and 6502 Assembly when I was a teenager while constructing interfaces to run model trains with the game port on the C64. Done a little c/c++ with Borland builder and QT. These days the only programming I get around with is web stuff. HTML, PHP, JavaScript, CSS and MySql. I just barely get by programming so I will leave the hard stuff to you guys! Joe
Noga Joe. G'day Joe, back again, so quick. I had too much clearance and it showed up when power feed was engaged and when taking a facing cut, Jeremy offers some good advice on the clearance. Yes 5/8 key stock and all thread makes a good drive dog, you'll see mine in the Steady Rest video. Cheers Peter
Peter, thanks for the tip on finding it. So what is the clearance on yours? Do you think the .005 on mine is too much?
Noga, that's it. I need one of those!
I have some key stock so I think I will go that route just so i can turn between centers.
Joe
My Heap on the subject of aliment of machine tools do a search for Schlessinger tolerances he literally wrote the book on the subject and it's out of copyright now so you can find it for free if your net savvy
Got it. Looks like a good one. Thanks for the tip.
Joe
Joe, No problem to add a little packing underneath the AXA tool post block to raise it up over the compound casting. I had the same concern of keeping the lathe original. I used an Amana shaper bushing 1/2" x 3/4" with wide flange and turned it down to accept the post bolt and slot of the compound. Of course I had to use the rocker tool post to do it. Your new tool holder will be a great improvement and easier and faster to change tooling. You'll love it.
Steven, thanks for that bit of info. So you don't feel like you lost anything by putting it on the packing? I am getting excited. Funny thing, I realized after I posted the video, that I said I only had the tail stock to do, but then realized I still have to clean and install the lead screw. :-D
Won't hurt a thing and keeps the lathe authentic. Works great. I made a tightening lever for the tool post to get rid of looking for the wrench.
I also had this problem, and I too was concerned about keeping it original but I wanted the tool post to sit flat on the compound so I put my compound in the shaper and shaved it back about 3/4", actually looks like it was made that way now, worked out very nice. As far as the clamping, nut I just made a new one for it instead of trying to machine the one that came with the axa tool post. And also goes without saying this is by far one of the best improvements you can make to this lathe, or just about any lathe for that matter.
Steve, while you sending picture, how about your lever assembly you made? :-)
Joe
Richard, would you send me a picture of your milled down casting? xavier at gtec dot com. I would like to see it.
Joe
Hey Joe, wish I could tell you what the required play is in the saddle. I checked it by lifting the saddle, and sliding a feeler gauge under the sliding surface. Don't remember what I measured at. The way I ended up doing it was taking away. 002" at a time till i started binding when slid the lengnth of the way. Then added a thou till it slid nice. Mine is a little tight tward the tail as my ways are slightly warn up near the headstock. I don't do much long work so this works best for me. I could machine that nut for you if you want. Or, if you know what the size and thread pitch of your stud is, I could make you a completely separate one. May take a week or two if I don't have the right size tap and have to order one.
Jeremy, thanks for the tip!!
The stud is M14 x 1.5. Either way would be fine with me. I can send you the nut or you can make a new one. Will be happy to pay you for your time. Richard asked me for a drawing of the nut. I sent him one but have not heard anything back yet.
Joe
Joe, .005 is too much, aim for 1 thou but it will be a compromise because the bed will have worn sections where mostly used and good sections with no wear, like under the tailstock which you can ignore. I had 2 in the mills carriage and had to reduce it so I could bore the spindle housing successfully, ok, ok alot of stick out with the boring bar but it does matter, by the way a Coke can is 4 thou. Cheers
Thanks Peter. I think I have a pack of brass shim stock somewhere ... If I can find it. I bought it when I started the Gingery Lathe. Will definitely keep the pop can thickness in mind! Great Tip, Also I think heavy duty aluminum foil is in the neighborhood of 3 thou.
Joe
So, I'm curious, what did you find regarding the slop at the back of the carriage? I was very interested in hearing these findings as I have a TH54 10X36 quick change and this one item I have never checked on mine. Just curious, thanks for sending.
rtkville, the front averaged .005 and the back averaged .0035. I hope that helps.
Joe
Thanks Joe, You have inspired me to check my TH-54 saddle, I'm surprised I had not thought of doing this before.
Just a note, I made my measurements with the saddle moved towards the tailstock end of the bed where there is less wear. I know you would want some clearence but am not sure how much. It would also be an interesting test to set the indicator on the back of the saddle and take a good facing cut to see if it actually deflects.
Best of luck and let me know your findings.
Joe
I know who I am hiring to repair my Lathe 😊
HAHAHA, Yeah, but will you live long enough for me to finish it???
🤔🤔 😳
I'm a computer geek too and love metal work. I am a bit ahead of you for metal work. :-) Do the backplates first. The 4 jaw first.
Hi Steve, I thought I would do the 4 Jaw first for a couple of reasons. First, the backplate for it will be a simpler job than the three jaw, and ... even though I will do my best to make it as concentric as possible, if it is slightly out it isn't the end of the world since they are independent jaws. Second, as I understand it, it is more versatile than the three jaw even though it could take longer to set the work up.
Nice to have another geek on board. I am primarily a network guy, but a one man shop for the Hospital I work for. How about you?
Joe
Software developer for about 40 years, specializing in performance for the last 20 years. Working primarily on db2 database.
I went to school primarily for networking. Was hired at a hospital 20 years ago and have been a jack of all trades since. I have done a little programming over the years. I started with CBM Basic and 6502 Assembly when I was a teenager while constructing interfaces to run model trains with the game port on the C64. Done a little c/c++ with Borland builder and QT. These days the only programming I get around with is web stuff. HTML, PHP, JavaScript, CSS and MySql. I just barely get by programming so I will leave the hard stuff to you guys!
Joe
For a make you cry video try "Brainiac75" ..you too "MSFN"
An attractive channel for the most part, yes???
A small town nice guy whose hobby got him noticed.. GREAT
Machinists dont cry Steve 😎. Unless of course we crash the Lathe 😖😂