Wow I’m amazed how putting a little stress on the blade and it will get centered. Got a new pm2 tanto and this actually worked without have to disassemble it. Thanks!
Thanks so much. Couldn’t get rid of blade play until I watched this. I did the pivot first, then the lock bar, and last the frame screw. Zero blade play, perfect centering, and super smooth action. Absolutely awesome video. Thanks man!! 👍🏼
I used a cheap torx bit and tweeked the pivot screw. Ordered WIHA bits and stubby driver. I have new scales, blue anodized hardware, pocket clip and back spacer. Can't wait to get it finished. Should have watched more RUclips videos first,but I was excited. Thanks for the tips.
Idk how this video does’nt have more views. Some great tips and tricks here. I was finally able to fix the centering on my para 3 🙌. Breathed new life in that knife for me. Thank you.
Just subscribed. Fantastic video and timely. I just received the PM2 in MAXAMET that I had preordered in September of 2019 and it was one blade thickness off center. Your technique centered her perfectly. Thanks again.
I'm so relieved that I'm hallucinating my lock stick , I was thinking the loud click was lock stick , making my finger raw with the pressure I have to put on the liner to get it to release 😂. Now I think I'm just crazy...pweh.
Great advice on centering. Works on Bugouts with metal scales too (titanium and aluminum) I am guessing that this technique shifts rhe axis of the pivot relative to the handles.
Holy SH!T the flex worked. I’m amazed. I’ve taken my PM2 Tanto apart like 6 times trying to get it centered and done the paper wedge trick like 8 and none of those worked.
But if that weird flex worked, doesn’t it mean there is something wrong with that knife? I mean, if you do that with all screws tighten, doesn’t it mean you’re bending something?
@@klrktsr No…. Cus when I did mine it didn’t feel like I was bending anything. More like flexing? Don’t really know how to describe it. I don’t. More importantly it worked where literally nothing else before had so. 🤌
@@AdamforAmerica thanks for your reply. So, even now, after all screws are tightened… can you still unfold the knife and push the blade? If I do that, it becomes off centred. I can push it back the other direction and it’s cantered again. This doesn’t make sense to me as all the screws are tight.
Thank you so much for showing that hammer trick! I've been trying to get my PM2 apart for a scale swap, and I swear I could feel my blood pressure rising to an unhealthy level because of that stupid lanyard tube (the fact that it was an older PM2 with red loctite didn't help either).
Thank you for this comprehensive video! Picked my 1st PM2 in CruCarta (avoided Spyderco for 20 yrs with those phterodactilian looks but Delica 4 changed that). Love the knife, it's a perfect fit. It's breaking in fine and I have made zero adjustment. The only downer is that the compression lock is hard and scratchy to disengage if the knife was deployed harshly prior (flicking the blade open). Any ideas as to what course 8f action? I've so far just added a few drops of oil and worked the mechanism manually with different torque input. It's lossy goossy alright but both engagement and disengagement if the lock are meeeeh, irregular and sticky. It seems to get a bit better with daily but coming from ceramic BB, I'm thinking it's just the nature of the beast...?
Very helpful instruction. Excellent delivery. I was specifically looking for blade centering technique. Thanks to you, my PM2 is centered up again. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Subscribed
Thank you very much for this video and for sharing your knowledge with us! It'd be great if you could do a video or two on your methods for sharpening a PM2.
It’s actually not the lock sticking but rather a slight defect in the tang. Sometimes after machining they leave a hairline canal in the tang where the lock leaf slides into. It then sits inside this canal/ furrow. Then when unlocking it clicks out of this furrow which feels like lock stick. You can fix this by filing this section down until it is smooth and the canal/furrow is gone. I have had to do this a couple of times.
I just got my first pm2 and it's the m4 tanto. Came with super loose pivots so I adjusted them and when I get rid of the blade play it's no longer centered. Driving me bananas trying to get it dialed in!
I had the same issue with the crack in the same spot fortunately the retailer I bought it from replaced the knife with a new one but still pretty irritating that it happened to a brand new 200+ knife
best trick I lerned for gettting the tube off is to start at the far end, with a slim screwdriver, wedge it between the scale and the liner, and pretend you're on a loom, and press toward the tube, slow and easy, stable pressure, and she comes right off - no warp to the scale, no damage... easy peasy
My factory seconds pm2 has lock stick. It had it pretty bad when I originally got it... It broke in slightly, but even after taking it apart, and oiling it it's still sticky. I can tell it is, because my other one that was retail sold isn't sticky like it at all. It's a factory seconds though, what can I say lol; I got it for $84 shipped. I'm interested to take them both apart one time and compare the liners... Sand the other one down a bit when my sandpaper gets here; I need to sand the spine on my factory seconds one anyway, because the edges are so rough that the spine bit me a few days ago... When I noticed myself bleeding I'm like "wtf?", then later I pulled the knife out and there was blood on the spine lol.
I always have a giggle when people start absolutely screaming about the blades being slightly off center with the various brands. It is simply the tolerances between the parts in action, one scale/liner being a literal hair off can show up as a significant off center blade. Whenever I take my knives apart they usually go back with the blade slightly wonky until I give the blade a wiggle and fully tighten all the screws up.
I can't agree more on having quality bits, and how important quality tools are. The only 3 bit brands I use now are Wera, Wiha, and C.K Tools ( The Chrome vanadium ones made in Taiwan), not tried the C.K bits made in China but I'm sure they are good as well since C.K Tools are known for their quality tools.
I'm having alot of drag on my compression lock, blade not wanting to fall freely when disengaged, especially after fluck8ng hard. what causes this and how do I fix it?
Hi, for the 10:20… Is this only with PM2? This is so weird, even though all the screws are tight, I can move the blade as you did and make it off center… Is this normal? I’d appreciate your reply!
I got a pm2 with a pivot that's a little loose in the d cut out in the frame rails. Causes the lock to set on the edge of the ramp on the blade. Should I grind a little off the top so it slides under the frame spacer a little more?
I’ll say that Para 3 lockstick definitely isn’t a myth; mostly because it uses a floating stop pin as opposed to the pm2’s fixed pin. Something with how the physics of it wedging into the lock means the last 3 para 3’s I’ve tried have either had lockstick, or if they didn’t they had vertical play. PM2s really shouldn’t have stick though.
Thank you for all of this. But, I have real lock stick. Incredibly hard to break the lock and close the knife. I have cycled a new PM2 over 2000x and still sticking. Send it back?
Same here! I have not cycled mine as much, but the harder I snap the blade open, the harder it is to unlock. No way I can unlock it one-handed when it sticks liked that. Did you find a solution?
@@punkish7 Hi Mike. I finally sent it back to Spyderco for service. They sent me a new knife, which was much better with only a slight lock stick. Eventually, I sold that knife as well. Maybe I'll own another PM2 some day???
I think most aftermarket tubes allow you to separate the scales again more easily in the future. It's very easy for the stock lanyard tube to eat away at the edge of the scales where the tube goes in each time you remove the scales because the stock tube has a relatively aggressive "lip" that goes over the scales.
Lock stick is definitely no myth on my pm2. Had if for months now, taken it apart a dozen times, cleaned it, oiled it, tried without oil. Played with it tons trying to “break it in”. With some oil it goes away for a bit, but always comes back. Reached out too Spyderco, got no response at all…. The pm2 is overrated in my opinion, and Spyderco customer service is basically none existent… maybe it’s just my knife.
i got a tanto pm2 aniut a monthmago and it had terrible lockstick. i ended up getting rid of the lockstick by doing a bladeswap with another pm2 i have. so if u have another pm2 try swapping the scales and liners. i tried cleanjng and eferything and the only thing that worked was swapping them scales and liners.
I have to say that upsets me and makes me wonder about Spyderco quality! My Para3 LW is absolutely perfect, but the PM2 I just got is very hard to unlock. Just luck of the draw when ordering a Spyderco?
@@punkish7 yeah man I love Spyderco but I’ve had some lemons. In addition to the LW, I have a SpydieChef and a PM2 with lock stick, and a para 3 that has blade play and lock rock, no matter how tight the pivot is.
The whole bending the blade thing freaks me out. I have so much money tied up in PM2’s and the idea that I should bend the blade makes me feel like I’m dealing with a junk knife. I feel like we shouldn’t have to bend a blade to get it centered. The quality in fit and and machining should lay that blade in the center every time. Just my opinion.
You ever seen the washers in the CRK Inkosi? Big flat machined to shape phosphor bronze pieces. To simply call them washers is a bit of a understatement. Of course we'd be comparing a $400 Reeve to a $130 (base price +/-) Spyderco- apples to oranges, but it is a comparison you should make if you expect these tolerances. The ability to do adjustment by bending is likely in part due to the use of Spyderco's basic little circle washers.
Wiha bits are overrated... mine eventually bent on a stubborn screw as easy any other driver. You can get a bag of 10 T6 bits for like 12 bucks though...
I just tried the blade bend to center my tanto and when nothing else worked, that did!!! Awesome!!! Thanks 🤘
Wow I’m amazed how putting a little stress on the blade and it will get centered. Got a new pm2 tanto and this actually worked without have to disassemble it. Thanks!
Thanks so much. Couldn’t get rid of blade play until I watched this. I did the pivot first, then the lock bar, and last the frame screw. Zero blade play, perfect centering, and super smooth action. Absolutely awesome video. Thanks man!! 👍🏼
I used a cheap torx bit and tweeked the pivot screw. Ordered WIHA bits and stubby driver. I have new scales, blue anodized hardware, pocket clip and back spacer. Can't wait to get it finished. Should have watched more RUclips videos first,but I was excited. Thanks for the tips.
Helpful video. You speak clearly and make sense. Thanks for this.
Idk how this video does’nt have more views. Some great tips and tricks here. I was finally able to fix the centering on my para 3 🙌. Breathed new life in that knife for me. Thank you.
Great knowledge with awesome tips and tricks. I'm going to Center and reduce the drag on my PM2 right now, thank you.
literally perfect and covered everything, thank you.
Just subscribed. Fantastic video and timely. I just received the PM2 in MAXAMET that I had preordered in September of 2019 and it was one blade thickness off center. Your technique centered her perfectly. Thanks again.
Just found your channel and wish I found it sooner. Great 👍
I'm so relieved that I'm hallucinating my lock stick , I was thinking the loud click was lock stick , making my finger raw with the pressure I have to put on the liner to get it to release 😂. Now I think I'm just crazy...pweh.
Literally, Thank You for explaining blade centering issue!
Great advice on centering. Works on Bugouts with metal scales too (titanium and aluminum) I am guessing that this technique shifts rhe axis of the pivot relative to the handles.
Holy SH!T the flex worked. I’m amazed. I’ve taken my PM2 Tanto apart like 6 times trying to get it centered and done the paper wedge trick like 8 and none of those worked.
But if that weird flex worked, doesn’t it mean there is something wrong with that knife? I mean, if you do that with all screws tighten, doesn’t it mean you’re bending something?
@@klrktsr No…. Cus when I did mine it didn’t feel like I was bending anything. More like flexing? Don’t really know how to describe it. I don’t. More importantly it worked where literally nothing else before had so. 🤌
@@AdamforAmerica thanks for your reply.
So, even now, after all screws are tightened… can you still unfold the knife and push the blade? If I do that, it becomes off centred. I can push it back the other direction and it’s cantered again. This doesn’t make sense to me as all the screws are tight.
Thank you so much for showing that hammer trick! I've been trying to get my PM2 apart for a scale swap, and I swear I could feel my blood pressure rising to an unhealthy level because of that stupid lanyard tube (the fact that it was an older PM2 with red loctite didn't help either).
Thank you for this comprehensive video! Picked my 1st PM2 in CruCarta (avoided Spyderco for 20 yrs with those phterodactilian looks but Delica 4 changed that). Love the knife, it's a perfect fit. It's breaking in fine and I have made zero adjustment. The only downer is that the compression lock is hard and scratchy to disengage if the knife was deployed harshly prior (flicking the blade open). Any ideas as to what course 8f action? I've so far just added a few drops of oil and worked the mechanism manually with different torque input. It's lossy goossy alright but both engagement and disengagement if the lock are meeeeh, irregular and sticky. It seems to get a bit better with daily but coming from ceramic BB, I'm thinking it's just the nature of the beast...?
Great video! I hope you continue to make content like this. 👍😁
Very helpful instruction. Excellent delivery. I was specifically looking for blade centering technique. Thanks to you, my PM2 is centered up again. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Subscribed
Great centering tips. Thank you.
Thank you very much for this video and for sharing your knowledge with us! It'd be great if you could do a video or two on your methods for sharpening a PM2.
It’s actually not the lock sticking but rather a slight defect in the tang. Sometimes after machining they leave a hairline canal in the tang where the lock leaf slides into. It then sits inside this canal/ furrow. Then when unlocking it clicks out of this furrow which feels like lock stick. You can fix this by filing this section down until it is smooth and the canal/furrow is gone. I have had to do this a couple of times.
You should make a video of that process, would be very helpful.
EDIT: just tried it and it now works like a charm thanks.
D3MSTER will do my friend.
Sending one just received that has that groove and has terrible lock stick right back . Not my job to do the manufacturers job.
Good and informative. Learnt a lot. Thanks
I just got my first pm2 and it's the m4 tanto. Came with super loose pivots so I adjusted them and when I get rid of the blade play it's no longer centered. Driving me bananas trying to get it dialed in!
Very good video thanks
Great video man. How do you go about removing a broken screw where the head broke off ?
Helpful! Thank you!
I had the same issue with the crack in the same spot fortunately the retailer I bought it from replaced the knife with a new one but still pretty irritating that it happened to a brand new 200+ knife
Love the Channel 👊...AWESOME INFO
best trick I lerned for gettting the tube off is to start at the far end, with a slim screwdriver, wedge it between the scale and the liner, and pretend you're on a loom, and press toward the tube, slow and easy, stable pressure, and she comes right off - no warp to the scale, no damage... easy peasy
Great video, easy to follow. Tks
My factory seconds pm2 has lock stick. It had it pretty bad when I originally got it... It broke in slightly, but even after taking it apart, and oiling it it's still sticky. I can tell it is, because my other one that was retail sold isn't sticky like it at all. It's a factory seconds though, what can I say lol; I got it for $84 shipped. I'm interested to take them both apart one time and compare the liners... Sand the other one down a bit when my sandpaper gets here; I need to sand the spine on my factory seconds one anyway, because the edges are so rough that the spine bit me a few days ago... When I noticed myself bleeding I'm like "wtf?", then later I pulled the knife out and there was blood on the spine lol.
I always have a giggle when people start absolutely screaming about the blades being slightly off center with the various brands. It is simply the tolerances between the parts in action, one scale/liner being a literal hair off can show up as a significant off center blade. Whenever I take my knives apart they usually go back with the blade slightly wonky until I give the blade a wiggle and fully tighten all the screws up.
Subbed today. good content very thorough 💯🤙🏼
I can't agree more on having quality bits, and how important quality tools are. The only 3 bit brands I use now are Wera, Wiha, and C.K Tools ( The Chrome vanadium ones made in Taiwan), not tried the C.K bits made in China but I'm sure they are good as well since C.K Tools are known for their quality tools.
Glad to see you on RUclips!
I'm having alot of drag on my compression lock, blade not wanting to fall freely when disengaged, especially after fluck8ng hard. what causes this and how do I fix it?
Hi, for the 10:20… Is this only with PM2? This is so weird, even though all the screws are tight, I can move the blade as you did and make it off center… Is this normal? I’d appreciate your reply!
I bought a new pm-2 it has the worst lock stick I've ever encountered?
Great video mate. Subbed.
Thank you Sir!
I got a pm2 with a pivot that's a little loose in the d cut out in the frame rails. Causes the lock to set on the edge of the ramp on the blade. Should I grind a little off the top so it slides under the frame spacer a little more?
I’ll say that Para 3 lockstick definitely isn’t a myth; mostly because it uses a floating stop pin as opposed to the pm2’s fixed pin. Something with how the physics of it wedging into the lock means the last 3 para 3’s I’ve tried have either had lockstick, or if they didn’t they had vertical play. PM2s really shouldn’t have stick though.
locl stick does happen. but it's usually more to do with the lock pin and the lock bar sticking on that.
Thanx for the knowledge!
When you flex that blade to center it your actually bending the non locking side of the liner because it is not heat treated and it is easily bend.
Thank you😊
Thank you for all of this. But, I have real lock stick. Incredibly hard to break the lock and close the knife. I have cycled a new PM2 over 2000x and still sticking. Send it back?
Same here! I have not cycled mine as much, but the harder I snap the blade open, the harder it is to unlock. No way I can unlock it one-handed when it sticks liked that.
Did you find a solution?
@@punkish7 Hi Mike. I finally sent it back to Spyderco for service. They sent me a new knife, which was much better with only a slight lock stick. Eventually, I sold that knife as well. Maybe I'll own another PM2 some day???
Thanks! Great insights. 🙂
Great stuff. Thanks man.
Great video man!
What about severe lock stick? I've been trying EVERYTHING to no avail. Bout ready to throw it at a wall
I've dropped my PM2 since then it's been tight, tried breaking it in again, sadly didn't work. Do you know how to fix this?
Great video
thanks bro
Does you blade centering technique work for the Military as well?
Its just crazy that guys and gals are paying $200 for a knife and its still not good enough and now they spend even more money to make it better.
Nice man. Thanks!
Why replace the lanyard tube with a titanium one? From what I could see they look the same.
I think most aftermarket tubes allow you to separate the scales again more easily in the future. It's very easy for the stock lanyard tube to eat away at the edge of the scales where the tube goes in each time you remove the scales because the stock tube has a relatively aggressive "lip" that goes over the scales.
My new Bento PM3's lock scratches against the back of the blade when I go to collapse the knife. Just needs a break in?
I cant for the life of me get the other side of my pivot screw out. How much locktite do they use on this Para 2's ?
When centering the blade, It favors the opposite side because the inset metal liners bend a bit. Look @ the mechanics of it again.
This is gold
Lock stick is definitely no myth on my pm2. Had if for months now, taken it apart a dozen times, cleaned it, oiled it, tried without oil. Played with it tons trying to “break it in”. With some oil it goes away for a bit, but always comes back. Reached out too Spyderco, got no response at all…. The pm2 is overrated in my opinion, and Spyderco customer service is basically none existent… maybe it’s just my knife.
i got a tanto pm2 aniut a monthmago and it had terrible lockstick. i ended up getting rid of the lockstick by doing a bladeswap with another pm2 i have. so if u have another pm2 try swapping the scales and liners. i tried cleanjng and eferything and the only thing that worked was swapping them scales and liners.
Can you please add a link for the torx bits?
I’m thinking it’s flexing the steel liners. I use that trick to
WOOW
The lock stick doesnt happen there, it binds on the stop pin.
The pm2wizard.
My Para3 Lw has some pretty bad lock stick...always has
I have to say that upsets me and makes me wonder about Spyderco quality! My Para3 LW is absolutely perfect, but the PM2 I just got is very hard to unlock. Just luck of the draw when ordering a Spyderco?
@@punkish7 yeah man I love Spyderco but I’ve had some lemons. In addition to the LW, I have a SpydieChef and a PM2 with lock stick, and a para 3 that has blade play and lock rock, no matter how tight the pivot is.
You're bending the frame/liner. It's easy to center simple by bending the handle.
The whole bending the blade thing freaks me out. I have so much money tied up in PM2’s and the idea that I should bend the blade makes me feel like I’m dealing with a junk knife. I feel like we shouldn’t have to bend a blade to get it centered. The quality in fit and and machining should lay that blade in the center every time. Just my opinion.
You ever seen the washers in the CRK Inkosi? Big flat machined to shape phosphor bronze pieces. To simply call them washers is a bit of a understatement. Of course we'd be comparing a $400 Reeve to a $130 (base price +/-) Spyderco- apples to oranges, but it is a comparison you should make if you expect these tolerances. The ability to do adjustment by bending is likely in part due to the use of Spyderco's basic little circle washers.
man those scales are purty...
I use my girls on heat hairdryer safer and easier for red locktite . 2 mins and screw is loose Try it it works Trust
Sharp dress knives?
It's the gut who makes the scales. @sharpdressedknives on IG...
www.sharpdressedknives.com/product-page/spyderco-paramilitary-2-deep-blue-twill
be safe, dont do stupid stuff...
but we wanna do stupid stuff :D
now what :D
i see those Sharp Dressed Knives scales don't have all four positions for pocket clip.
Some would consider that a good thing. Makes for s cleaner look.
Wiha bits are overrated... mine eventually bent on a stubborn screw as easy any other driver. You can get a bag of 10 T6 bits for like 12 bucks though...
are those scales aftermarket or is this a sprint?
he said scales by Sharp Dressed Knives.
That factory clip 🤮🤮