Good job Ian, not a bad looking little scooter. Had not thought to change the connector round on the mother board good idea. Say hi to Jenny and be lucky.
We sell and rent a lot of Drive Medical products. The 1811 in the serial number is 2018 November. The manufacturing date. The numbers after the 1811 is the unit number made that month. I believe the 1L has to do with the manufacturing location and product line.
Thank you David, good to know. I don't really mess with Drive stuff as our cost price on new scooters are more than what you can buy at Walmart! so we don't buy them to make a loss.
I have some motors with brushes and a couple without brushes I do understand the difference Do you know whether or not I can swap them out with the same controller? I haven't looked yet to see if they will physically fit to the other transaxle I have one motor that's four pole and of course it's missing a brush I learned from your videos I've been fixing them now and collecting for about four years
You know, that's a good question and I've never thought about it. I don't see there to be a problem using a brushless motor in place of brushed as long as the voltage and wattage is good. I'm going to have to do some tests to be positive that it can be done.
Have you tried any of the Lifepo4 batteries yet Ian? I have a customer that has 3 Victory Sports and has them in all 3. I'm a little concerned about using them because I'm afraid of them catching fire.
@@cliveharmsworth2894 I think I may get some for my own scooter first and try them. I also plan to buy the Lifepo4 charger because I'm told the ones that come with scooters aren't compatable. I wonder if my scooter will run faster with them?
Good question, I had a customer in from CA and he had a problem with his ZT8 (under warranty less than 2 year old) and a melted battery connector on the floorboard of the scooter. He didn't mention anything to me before bringing in the scooter and wanted me to diagnose the problem. I've seen melted front to rear connectors before but never a battery connector. Turns out after quizzing him he finally told me he had changed the original batteries (SLA) for Lithium-Ion batteries. I know this is only one case of this, but I don't think I'll be advising or replacing SLA's for Lithium on any scooter that isn't made for it.
I wouldn't, it won't make it go any faster they just have more charging cycles compared of SLA about 1300 charges per life cycle and charge a little quicker, and cost more.
@@lasvegasscooterslifts Wow!! I agree. My customer has burned up a controller in a Victory LX by using some huge Lifepo4s in them. I think these Lifepo4s are really too strong for mobility equipment in general.
Can you please share info on your battery tester? brand & model? and knowing those batteries are 18amp hour I noticed that you set your tester at 180cca, so guessing that the 12amp batteries would be 120cca? and 35amp batteries would 235cca?
Hey Richard, I did a review video on the TOPDON tester but it's taken a while to figure out the CCA conversion. I was sick of having to buy a car battery tester ever 6 months as I always burnt out the switches on them. Basically, I got a brand new known good 35ah battery and did some tests on it to see what gave me 100% health and it seems to be at 210 - 235CCA Here are my other setting I use. 12v 12ah set around 150- 165 CCA 12v 18 ah - 170 -180 CCA 22ah I would do at 185 - 190 cca 12v 35ah I always test at 210 CCA 12v 40ah 230- 250 CCA 12v 55AH I'm still messing with but I'm getting around 300 - 330 CCA They say the way to figure it out is AH value x 7.2 = CCA value but that math works badly for 12ah x 7.2 =86.4CCA which is way off. hope this helps
@@lasvegasscooterslifts Speaking OF batteries; Do you have a specific supplier that you use out there in Las Vegas for batteries? I've had a run of bad batteries, mostly the 12120 batteries that I've bought on Amazon & Ebay. I also sent back a set of 12350 batteries that were 2 years old when they arrived here. Didn't even open the boxes!!
@@richardbarkley9909 Buying online is always a hit and miss thing more miss than hit for us. We have a national distributor we use here in Vegas and their stock is never old dates as they can't get enough batteries over to us, so we know they are always fresh stock.
You have the washers absolutely correct. I like to put a flat washer under the bolt head as well, then do exactly the same as you have done.
Phew thanks Richard.
Good job Ian, not a bad looking little scooter. Had not thought to change the connector round on the mother board good idea. Say hi to Jenny and be lucky.
I have my moments lol. Jenny says hi to you both.
We sell and rent a lot of Drive Medical products. The 1811 in the serial number is 2018 November. The manufacturing date. The numbers after the 1811 is the unit number made that month. I believe the 1L has to do with the manufacturing location and product line.
Thank you David, good to know. I don't really mess with Drive stuff as our cost price on new scooters are more than what you can buy at Walmart! so we don't buy them to make a loss.
Bit fiddly Ian but job well done buddy nice little scooter,👍
Thanks bud.
Folks seem to like the 4 wheel scooters over the 3 wheels. I've recently had a run on 2 Golden GC440s and 1 Pride Victory 10 here in Florida...
Yep stable over turning radius seems to what people like but with Pride's ZT and iTurn range of scooters that's a thing of the past now.
I have some motors with brushes and a couple without brushes I do understand the difference
Do you know whether or not I can swap them out with the same controller? I haven't looked yet to see if they will physically fit to the other transaxle I have one motor that's four pole and of course it's missing a brush I learned from your videos I've been fixing them now and collecting for about four years
You know, that's a good question and I've never thought about it. I don't see there to be a problem using a brushless motor in place of brushed as long as the voltage and wattage is good. I'm going to have to do some tests to be positive that it can be done.
Have you tried any of the Lifepo4 batteries yet Ian? I have a customer that has 3 Victory Sports and has them in all 3. I'm a little concerned about using them because I'm afraid of them catching fire.
I do agree with you, but we all use cordless drill drivers-impact drivers and I for one do not wrap them in cotton wall.
@@cliveharmsworth2894 I think I may get some for my own scooter first and try them. I also plan to buy the Lifepo4 charger because I'm told the ones that come with scooters aren't compatable. I wonder if my scooter will run faster with them?
Good question, I had a customer in from CA and he had a problem with his ZT8 (under warranty less than 2 year old) and a melted battery connector on the floorboard of the scooter. He didn't mention anything to me before bringing in the scooter and wanted me to diagnose the problem. I've seen melted front to rear connectors before but never a battery connector. Turns out after quizzing him he finally told me he had changed the original batteries (SLA) for Lithium-Ion batteries. I know this is only one case of this, but I don't think I'll be advising or replacing SLA's for Lithium on any scooter that isn't made for it.
I wouldn't, it won't make it go any faster they just have more charging cycles compared of SLA about 1300 charges per life cycle and charge a little quicker, and cost more.
@@lasvegasscooterslifts Wow!! I agree. My customer has burned up a controller in a Victory LX by using some huge Lifepo4s in them. I think these Lifepo4s are really too strong for mobility equipment in general.
Can you please share info on your battery tester? brand & model? and knowing those batteries are 18amp hour I noticed that you set your tester at 180cca, so guessing that the 12amp batteries would be 120cca? and 35amp batteries would 235cca?
Hey Richard, I did a review video on the TOPDON tester but it's taken a while to figure out the CCA conversion. I was sick of having to buy a car battery tester ever 6 months as I always burnt out the switches on them.
Basically, I got a brand new known good 35ah battery and did some tests on it to see what gave me 100% health and it seems to be at 210 - 235CCA
Here are my other setting I use.
12v 12ah set around 150- 165 CCA
12v 18 ah - 170 -180 CCA 22ah I would do at 185 - 190 cca
12v 35ah I always test at 210 CCA
12v 40ah 230- 250 CCA
12v 55AH I'm still messing with but I'm getting around 300 - 330 CCA
They say the way to figure it out is AH value x 7.2 = CCA value but that math works badly for 12ah x 7.2 =86.4CCA which is way off. hope this helps
@@lasvegasscooterslifts Absolutely LOTS of help Ian!! Thanks much!!
@@lasvegasscooterslifts Speaking OF batteries; Do you have a specific supplier that you use out there in Las Vegas for batteries? I've had a run of bad batteries, mostly the 12120 batteries that I've bought on Amazon & Ebay. I also sent back a set of 12350 batteries that were 2 years old when they arrived here. Didn't even open the boxes!!
@@richardbarkley9909 Buying online is always a hit and miss thing more miss than hit for us. We have a national distributor we use here in Vegas and their stock is never old dates as they can't get enough batteries over to us, so we know they are always fresh stock.
@@richardbarkley9909 You're welcome.