Bro, this video has saved my sanity. Went through all the processes on my 50 (same as 40) and just had to adjust mix screws on the lower carbs to eliminate lean sneeze. Now she purrs like a kitten.... Thank you all the way from Australia
You just saved me from buying a new $600 cdi unit that a mechanic told me I would need! Turns out all I needed was an adjustment. Everything was severely out of sync! Thank you so much!!!
Really good. I have the manuals and I have had the engine for few years. Just had some misfire or backfire issues and dying on idle. Watch your video then cleaned the carbs which I’ve done before and then set up the carburettor using your Link sync RUclips video. Your videos answered all the outstanding questions I had even though I’ve got the Yamaha workshop manual absolutely brilliant really appreciated it. Clear and detailed instructions I really can’t thank you enough. For now the engine is back to running perfectly
5:30 it was at this point that I stopped the video and gave this a shot on my 90 and let me tell you sir you made my day actually my weekend. I haven't even finished the video yet but I'm about to. It took me a little messing around to get it smoothed out but when I first started it it was backfiring. I see now some of these connectors are cracking so I need to get new ones. But thanks to you I know what I did to make this happen and how to correct the problem. I appreciate you. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
Joe your vid’s are awesome. I’m a green home with mechanics but watching your vids I have completed Carbi cleans and now completed the timing through this vid.
This video and your carburetor cleaning video have been incredibly helpful to me in my DIY attempt to save some green. You're the best at clearly showing and explaining the details of how and why and walked me through the process very well...Thank You so much.
Forgot to say your tuning videos have been a great help to me thanks for doing them , i cant even find out what year this thing really is when it was made they didnt record manufacturing years 87 -92 somewhere in there i think .
@@ExtremeDIYGuy sure as hell are used your method to clean all the carbs even got the wire same as yours through amazon the bottom carb jets were completely blocked but carb cleaner and the wire made them like new again .
@@ExtremeDIYGuy no i was on the home straight going to adjust the links and carbs and the tilt and trim switch was playing up on the binacle tried to open it up but some bone head has put stud lock on the screws then the bracket that holds the adjustment screw for the cdi broke when i went to adjust the 20mm distance for the stopper having heaps of trouble trying to get a replacement as they dont make them anymore.
Gday mate well have made a new throttle bracket foot and it wont break , it works well possibly even better than the original , as for the timing marks they all seem to line up after a small adjustment full throttle and idle on spec tommorow i do the sync on the carbs i played the video on the stop a few times to make sure i knew where it was and how to adjust it properly looking at a friday fire up hope it goes well and ive put it back together correctly .
I am using your video to adjust the carbs and linkage on my yamaha 50 TLR 2 stroke. I noticed that when I adjust the full throttle stop on the bottom carb, it will also increase the idle speed to about 1500-2000rpm because when the throttle is back to neutral, the butterfly valves cannot close all the way. If I adjust the linkage so that the idle speed is around 700-900 rpm, then when I advance throttle to WOT, there still is about 1/4'' that the carbs can still be opened. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Hey great video helped out allot, I’ve got a 50pro Yamaha having a hard time finding specs on this thing. Would my idle fuel control be the same as the 40 at 1 1/2 turns?
Hello, very good videos and very well explained, thank you. I have a question. On a 50Cv 2T autolube engine, what would be the measurements of the CDI and air/mixture screws, etc. of the carburetors? I would be very grateful for any advice. A greeting from Spain.
Nice video!! It helped me a lot with checking my engine! Thanks a lot!! I have problems with cold start... it goes to 3500 rpm!! And then back to 850... Im not able to understand why.. its the same motor.. 40cv 2 t yamaha 90'...
Hey, any recommendations for setting up a 1993 model? The 20 mm initial idle setting seems wrong on this one. And the wide open stop is non adjustable.
Hey man thanks for the video it's very helpful. I have a 50 hp yamaha and my idle screw is on the top carb .. does this mean my carbs are in the wrong order .. or does it not matter for the top 2 ?
I do not but but I checked the manual. It advises that when the carb is held upside down, the top of the float should be 15 mm +/- 1 from the edge of the carb body. Hope that makes sense.
ON a Yamaha 40 hp 2 stroke on idle air jet on the end there is a tiny wire, Not having the top of carb off I seated the jet and broke off the wire, Do I need the wire? Or must I order another?
Question for you I have 120 hp Nissan two-stroke outboard the fuel cup where the screen filter cup drops down inside was flipped upside down in there. I don’t know how this happened or if somebody had gotten in there and worked on it previously but we have been having issues where the boat will not throttle up or hardly get up on plane it idles fine
Jose, by this system being a push control vs a pull does the pull option have an advantage vs the push? I’m struggling and with that I have new cables!? Control box is in great shape and when disconnected is smooth as butter!?
I don't have that off hand. Its been a few years and I no longer have that engine. I would give them a call, that's what I did and their techs are extremely helpful in finding the right part and giving you whatever tech tips you might need.
Hey this was really useful - is there anyway to test WOT without boat in water - ie disconnect gear shift? My engine dies at WOT but idles fine and goes forward to maybe 4 5 kts but as soon as WOT just cuts out - have stripped carbs but not sure now how to test without going back in water
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Thanks for this - just noticed again as I watch for 50th time - my roller in idle doesnt touch the black plastic part - @9.13 my roller is someway to the right - what do i need to adjust please?
Can you help me locate the thermostat on a 40hp Yamaha outboard motor It is not clear I believe it may be on Port side of engine Is it behind the oil resovoir And help or video Picture would be great
I need to do this to my 1989 90 horsepower oil injected it's 90 etlr is it the same or a little bit different on the millimeters and measurements for everything? Great video by the way
Thanks, I'm not 100% sure but if you don't have access to a manual you might want to try 20mm as the starting measurement. Before you do anything, measure where it is at first in case you have to revert back to where it was. Good luck!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy No problem, I was just going by what you had said in your Yamaha sync and tune video that you were going to make a video showing how to adjust cables in a Yamaha controller...
I ended up selling the boat along with the Yami and the controller. I did adjust the cables on it before selling it but did not make a video. TBH, it was a pain in the butt. I'd like to get another Yamaha at some point, if I do I'll do my best to do a video on that. I ended up doing small adjustments on the controller end. Making the adjustments wasn't too hard. Lining everything up correctly was the challenging part.
Hey there. I have a 1998 evinrude intruder 115hp. When going on plane there is a clunk and when on plane its clunks periodically. It feels like i would of hit something. I checked the gear oil no metal shavings gears and dog clutch are fine. Could loose linkage cause the motor to make the clunking?
Alright question for you, got an 06 Yamaha 50 two stroke been giving me fits for a long time actually spoke with you about a year ago lol. Running rich exhaust will burn your eyes out. But also lean sneezing and poor idle if at all. Did the link and sync as shown. However will only run with the air screws out about 3 turns and poorly at best. Looking at the carb linkages after the sync the bottom carb is open considerably more than the other two. The linkage is perfect for the top two carbs bottom one most open up 1/8 + to install the linkage. Is this normal? I can’t see why is sneezing when it’s running so rich. I’ve tried from 1/2 turn out to almost 3 with no improvement. At 1 1/2 won’t even idle.
Something definitely sounds off. The sync sounds like it is off with the bottom carb. That could definitely cause a lot of issues. I would start with trying to fix that as it should be perfectly in sync with the other two carbs. Did you do a complete cleaning of the carbs? If not, I would do that first. I have a video on that as well.
Hi Jose, The idle control screw(vertical screw at the 2nd carb) on my Yamaha plrp 40hp 2 stroke does not make contact with the stop on the carb even when it is tightened all the way in. Not sure what I should be adjusting to make the idle control screw make contact and work properly. Thanks
Hi Jose ,can you tell me if a set of yamaha 6h5 carburettors bolt straight up and can I use a 40hp square bowl to replace the fuel enricher bowl . My motor is 2000 6h4 Cheers fella
Question, I have an 06 50TLR. I’ve set everything the way you showed, mine starts idles rough and shuts off when trying to give it throttle. If I push my CDI lever down while running it takes off. I’ve been fighting this forever now. Different tank, clean carbs new plugs. This was a motor swap and I had to purchase new cables. Will the link and sync cause these issues? I’ve tried everything I can think of to no avail!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I haven’t. I’m having a hard time getting it to run even on idle at this point. I’ve been through the entire fuel system and today I’ve found the prime start solenoid is bad. 0.0 ohms. I’m not sure that’s the overall issue though. Last year when I put this motor on it ran an idles just fine but would die as soon as I put it in gear in the water. New temp gas tank new hoses and bulb new fuel pump. Then got into the control cables today. I had to replace them for longer cables. Also tried disconnecting the low oil sensor. No dice. If I try to bump up the idle to make it run it dies instantly. I was thinking CDI but dang expensive gamble!
@@ancellsadventures They aren't cheap but may be worth a try. I bought mine from CDI electronic but did it because I know the timing was way off with the original. I'm not 100% sure but the carbs may be the culprit. Yamaha carbs are notorious for getting fouled up and the common theme is that you need a hydrosonic cleaner to open up the port to the idle jet. I'm actually going to dive into mine soon to see what all the talk is about but sounds like that might be a place to look. I've been told that these ports can be cleaned manually but haven't had the chance to try it myself.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I’ve been thinking timing all along honestly just did everything else I could first. I’m very familiar with small carbs and I’m satisfied that these are clean. I’m going to try and test my CDI and verify before pulling that trigger lol. Thanks for your help! Great video and ya got a new subscriber!
Thanks! One last piece of advice, call CDI Electronics tech assist and ask for the Yamaha expert, let him know what you're running into. I did that before changing the CDI and he spent some time on the phone with me, I learned more in 20 minutes about Yami's then a weeks worth of classwork! Checked out your channel, great job on the Whaler, sub'd to your channel. Best of luck.
Hello my name is Heni Guba from Hanuabada village National Capital District Port Moresby Papua New Guineaa, okay I have a yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke (electronic key starter) in running conditions but the problem I'm really facing is when I start the engine and put the gear in forward and turn the idle up it began to knock so can you give me some ideas on how to do it to or what to do with that knock, please
Gday mate i can see what you mean about the manual it seams a bit confusing as i am just about to do this ,my cdi unit is backward to what is shown in the manual ie the marks for adtdc and btdc i just have to hope that i am doing it the right way ,i have 1992 heto 40hp so its pretty old ,is that an aftermarket cdi unit on your motor ? mine is made by mitsubishi original , went to adjust the stop to 20mm and the hole where the adjustment screw goes was brokeni think my motor is cursed ,they dont make the brackets anymore so i will try to weld it back up to make it right .
@@ExtremeDIYGuy it has had its issues i can tell you completly calcified up it was the dirtiest greaseiest angine i have ever seen but not anymore ill get there in the end .
Howdy Joe...great video, just subscribed! I have an 08 90tlr and I just rebuilt and reinstalled my carbs. I didn't fiddle with the timing or linkages at all, I just sync the three valves and tried to get the mixture and idle right. When I synced, in order to get the bottom butterfly to close completely, I had to force it with my finger, and then tighten the screw...it seemed to be tugging on the oil pump linkage on the opposite side side. Now they are in perfect sync, but the smell of raw gas coming from the motor is pretty overpowering. Did I do something obviously wrong? First time doing a project like this. Thanks :)
Sounds like there's a few things going on. As far as the fuel smell, that sounds like the float isn't closing the needle valve all the way on one of the carbs. On the linkage adjustment, you shouldn't have to force it, did you back the idle adjustment out before trying to sync the carbs to fully closed? You may want to also look at the oil mix adjustment and probably do a complete link and sync. I would suggest getting a service manual if you don't already have one, I found a pdf version on line for about $20
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank you. I have the shop manual, I used it for the carb rebuild. I think having to force the bottom butterfly valve close was a result of the linkage getting caught up on the various oil lines around the tank and pump. After running WOT this weekend for a while, it stalled coming out of gear and the bottom cylinder was completely flooded and gas was dumping out down the shaft. I bought another rebuild kit so I'll be starting with that tomorrow. Thanks!
Jose. Great video Thankyou just followed up on a 50hp boat run amazing but my tach is saying I’m running at 5k rpms but boat sounds and seems to be running perfect as if it is at 1k Rpms and idle screw on carbs is all the way out. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Excellent video, probably the best one on the link and sync out there. So good. One question, my cam accelerator/throttle accelerator only goes about 50% of the way and then feels stuck. The remote handles are also about 50% down. Feels like something is stuck with the cam accelerator. Can the spring fail or these parts be put on wrong? Or could it be a way of restricting the revs? Engine is a 3 cyl 2 stroke Yam.50HP. engines only reach 4500/4750 revs.
@@mitchmix999 Make sure to check the engine first before doing anything to see if there's anything obviously wrong. I had a similar problem which was the control box but yours may be as simple as adjusting the throttle cable. at the engine.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Just had a look by taking the cam accelerator link off so i could push the remotes down. All good. Checked the cam accelerator and the movement in that was ok too. My guess is the 703 remote cable is a bit stiff and just needs a bit of working. Might be at it's end of life too?
Turned out the CDI output voltage to each HT lead was only 50V (spec is 125V minimum). On top of this, the CDI timing position is well out. I've replaced the CDI and 7 degrees is bang on the mark with new CDI unit. The old CDI unit, 7 degrees was near half way towards fully advanced. I can only assume this is an age related issue with the CDI. I've a twin engine setup and both units are showing the same failings....poor output voltage to HT lead and also timing no longer being accurate on the CDI.
Hey Joe I did a full link and sink on a 2007 Yamaha 90tlr 2 stroke the only thing I could not find is the distance I need to measure for the idle advanced do you happen to know what it is on my 90hp kind of got a sluggish low idle once I put it in forward gear at low speed so I believe that needs to be adjusted, I believe it was 20 mm on that 40 horsepower you're tuning tia
Clayton, unfortunately, I don't have a manual for a 90 so can't give you a definitive answer. I might be worth searching for the manual on yours, I've found a wealth of manual resources online in the past.
The control link for that should be on the bottom carburetor port side. Follow the link to the oil mixer control. I don't have details on adjusting that though. I would get a copy of the manual for specifics.
Hello Jose, I am a certified RUclips diy mechanic. On a Yamaha 30 DMO 2 stroke, 3 cylinder i have a fast idle lever on the 703 controls. When i move it forward the idle speed goes up but not significantly. Should this lever be adjusted(or can it) to push the black round knob to wide open throttle?? It s the knob that is linked to all 3 carbs and i can only push it by hand in idle when i open the cover for maximum power or WOT... hope this makes sense. Thank you
Hey Jose, I’ve got an ‘98 Yamaha 40hp. It’ll start great every time. But will only idle for about 10-15 sec. Then stops dead. At times it’ll slowly start to die but will die very suddenly. Turn the key straight away and she starts no problem. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
Thanks for the video. Got a 1999 C40TLRX. It has a WOT mis. I checked the CDI settings and they obviously needed adjustments. I did it where the pointer lines up at idle and at WOT. Now motor starts and quits after RPM winds down. Any ideas what the problem could be?
I would start by checking the idle mix screws and then the idle control. Could be the linkage as well. I had to adjust mine back at the controller so everything would play nicely in the engine. Another are that could be causing that are the carbs. They are actually pretty easy to thoroughly clean (I have a video on that as well).
I have a 1999 Yamaha c60 the pointer on my cdi box is just the opposite of that at an idle it's toward the single line and between the two lines at wide open position. it struggles to get up to speed but once on plane runs good and runs good at an idle. does this sound right to you? with the marks being reversed from you video?
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I did end up finding the information on a forum with the c60 Yamaha the single mark is idling and double line is wot. With that setting my timing is right on with the light. Thank you for the video it was still helpful to me. Keep it up you do a great job of exploring the process.
Okay I purchased a service manual but couldn’t find the idle stop mm information. Is there another manual out there? On Yamahapubs I can only purchase the service manual and owners manual. Maybe I will look on another site
Mine show it in the "periodic inspection and adjustment section", sub section titled "control system" section 3 page 2. My manual covers the 40 and 50hp version, you may want to measure where it's at now and then try 20mm (what mine calls for). Interestingly enough, mine was serviced by a Yamaha "pro" who left all the settings completely out of spec.
Question: I tried this on my 50hp yam. and did everything as you, but step one did not seem to have a stop.......I can take a pic and let you see if needed. thanks, brian
That's odd, there should be an idle stop, perhaps a picture might help. Or better yet, send me the exact year and model #, I might be able to look it up.
Thanks, it was very off and the bolt had a washer and it threw me off, I set that first and then recked all the rest. Great Job and ty for your help Brian @@ExtremeDIYGuy
Great vid and super helpful.. nobody ever makes a good detailed vid but this guy is good!.. i have an 04 50hp yamah 2 stroke and she runs perfect until i throttle up and hit 1200 rpm then ahe coughs so hard wont get past 1200 rpm.. replace fuel system, fresh carb rebuild, new cdi (black box) im lost?? Anyone have ideas?
Jose let me make this clear when i say this.. you have saved me hundreds of $$ by posting this vid!! P.O.V. i have just taken my yama to the shop for coughing / hard studder issues while accelerating anything over 1.5k rpms.. long story short, $700 for carb rebuild, $225 external fuel delivery system rebuilt/ water separator the whole 9 yrds. Ofcourse to no avail!.....So jose, finally the mechanic tells me its the "Black Box" aka C.D.I unit. So without hesitation i order a new one. $500 u.s.d for the box. Okay so i swapped the c.d.i. out for the new one.. launched the boat and was so excited to finally have fixed the prob. Only to once again have my motors spit and sputter like a lawn mower in the high grass.. parked the boat on the trailor and made the call to my mechanic and got another appt to spend probably another grand on b.s. but i had a few days before they could get the boat into shop. This is when i stumbled across your channel. Seen this timimg adjustment vid, literally went out and brought a $5 digital caliber came to the boat and followed your specs word for word, # for #, and the boat runs like a scolded dog... i know its a long story but i wanted you to really understand how much you have help me brother... thank you so much for what you do and just keep posting no matter what jose! You give more than just diy tips in these videos, you really help build peoples confidence and morale. So keep it up bud🤘🤙
@@Fpvcandy This is the type of feedback that keeps me making DIY vids! I really appreciate this kind of feedback and am happy I was able to help! Thank you!
Hey Jose how you doing man! Glad to see your still up here posting and helping people with their d.i.y projects.. Recently purchased a Yamaha V4 115. It is a two-stroke and it is carbureted. Also, 704 rigging and binnacle. I wonder what this same link and sink measurements work on that? 115?
Thanks Jose. I have a 97 C40 that is surging at high RPMs. Seems to fluctuate a few hundred RPMs when I reach about 4K. Checked for air leaks in fuel system and have found none. Carbs have been cleaned and new filter installed. Recently noticed fuel leaking from fuel pump, could this be the culprit?
I can find it but have to warn you that it is ill fitting for this boat, it would have been better for a 12-14 ft skiff. (Affiliate Link) amzn.to/2RztIk7
Bro, this video has saved my sanity. Went through all the processes on my 50 (same as 40) and just had to adjust mix screws on the lower carbs to eliminate lean sneeze. Now she purrs like a kitten.... Thank you all the way from Australia
Did you use the same measurements for the all the stops....meaning there the same from the 40hp to the 50hp??
You just saved me from buying a new $600 cdi unit that a mechanic told me I would need! Turns out all I needed was an adjustment. Everything was severely out of sync! Thank you so much!!!
Thats awesome, I hate to say it, but I don't have much confidence in many of the Outboard mechanics I've run into. I can tell yo some horror stories
Really good. I have the manuals and I have had the engine for few years. Just had some misfire or backfire issues and dying on idle. Watch your video then cleaned the carbs which I’ve done before and then set up the carburettor using your Link sync RUclips video. Your videos answered all the outstanding questions I had even though I’ve got the Yamaha workshop manual absolutely brilliant really appreciated it. Clear and detailed instructions I really can’t thank you enough. For now the engine is back to running perfectly
That's great feedback! I'm glad the video was helpful to you!
Hi Jose..Still watching your videos... Just fixed my 1984 Yamaha 40 .. By watching your videos.. Ron.
Thanks for sticking around Ron! Glad they have been helpful!
5:30 it was at this point that I stopped the video and gave this a shot on my 90 and let me tell you sir you made my day actually my weekend. I haven't even finished the video yet but I'm about to.
It took me a little messing around to get it smoothed out but when I first started it it was backfiring. I see now some of these connectors are cracking so I need to get new ones. But thanks to you I know what I did to make this happen and how to correct the problem.
I appreciate you. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
Feedback like this keeps me going! I appreciate it and am glad the video helped you!
Joe your vid’s are awesome. I’m a green home with mechanics but watching your vids I have completed Carbi cleans and now completed the timing through this vid.
Good deal! Glad I was able to help.
Thank you so much!!! Did not even need the manual, started first time, ran ok a few more small adjustments and all good.
Great to hear!
Thanks for showing the procedure on the carbys it will be a big help 👍 cheers
No problem 👍
This video and your carburetor cleaning video have been incredibly helpful to me in my DIY attempt to save some green. You're the best at clearly showing and explaining the details of how and why and walked me through the process very well...Thank You so much.
Glad I could help!
Dou you have the timing specs for the 1991 Pro50 engines?
i have a 60 2 stroke seems to be the same setup more or less , thanks for the video nice job very help full
This is a great video. Helped me out a lot. I have a 50 and seems to be the same. Thanks for this videos!
You're welcome!
Forgot to say your tuning videos have been a great help to me thanks for doing them , i cant even find out what year this thing really is when it was made they didnt record manufacturing years 87 -92 somewhere in there i think .
Glad they are helpful to you!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy sure as hell are used your method to clean all the carbs even got the wire same as yours through amazon the bottom carb jets were completely blocked but carb cleaner and the wire made them like new again .
That's awesome! Have you got it running yet?
@@ExtremeDIYGuy no i was on the home straight going to adjust the links and carbs and the tilt and trim switch was playing up on the binacle tried to open it up but some bone head has put stud lock on the screws then the bracket that holds the adjustment screw for the cdi broke when i went to adjust the 20mm distance for the stopper having heaps of trouble trying to get a replacement as they dont make them anymore.
Thanks, this helps alot, I have a 50hp.2 stroke feels like 3500rpm is lower than max rpm thought it was 5500
top video mate, many thanks, from the UK -
No problem 👍!
Gday mate well have made a new throttle bracket foot and it wont break , it works well possibly even better than the original , as for the timing marks they all seem to line up after a small adjustment full throttle and idle on spec tommorow i do the sync on the carbs i played the video on the stop a few times to make sure i knew where it was and how to adjust it properly looking at a friday fire up hope it goes well and ive put it back together correctly .
That's great! Hopefully it will fire right up and run right!
Excellent video. Followed steps for my 40 tlr. Runs much better. Thx
That's great to hear! I'm glad it helped!
Please keep up the videos as they are such a great help and very well explained mate.. Great job.!!!
Thanks, will do!
Thanks a bunch I’ve been looking for this entire procedure 👍🏻👍🏻
No problem !
I am using your video to adjust the carbs and linkage on my yamaha 50 TLR 2 stroke. I noticed that when I adjust the full throttle stop on the bottom carb, it will also increase the idle speed to about 1500-2000rpm because when the throttle is back to neutral, the butterfly valves cannot close all the way. If I adjust the linkage so that the idle speed is around 700-900 rpm, then when I advance throttle to WOT, there still is about 1/4'' that the carbs can still be opened. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Hey great video helped out allot, I’ve got a 50pro Yamaha having a hard time finding specs on this thing. Would my idle fuel control be the same as the 40 at 1 1/2 turns?
The manual I have says 1-5/8 +/- 1/4 for an M model and 1-3/8 +/- 1/4 for an EM or E model. Hope that helps.
Hello, very good videos and very well explained, thank you.
I have a question.
On a 50Cv 2T autolube engine, what would be the measurements of the CDI and air/mixture screws, etc. of the carburetors? I would be very grateful for any advice. A greeting from Spain.
Nice video.....will be doing this soon and this is a huge help
Your welcome!
Nice video!! It helped me a lot with checking my engine! Thanks a lot!! I have problems with cold start... it goes to 3500 rpm!! And then back to 850... Im not able to understand why.. its the same motor.. 40cv 2 t yamaha 90'...
Prob the prime start solenoid. Stu has a good video on that here ruclips.net/video/x35uqVMu2r0/видео.html
Hey, any recommendations for setting up a 1993 model?
The 20 mm initial idle setting seems wrong on this one. And the wide open stop is non adjustable.
Just wanted to say thank you….. that really helped
Glad to hear it!
Great video very helpful. I have the same motor and it keeps foiling plugs out.
Glad it helped
Hey man thanks for the video it's very helpful.
I have a 50 hp yamaha and my idle screw is on the top carb .. does this mean my carbs are in the wrong order .. or does it not matter for the top 2 ?
Probably in the wrong order, I would check with a service manual
Great video I have a 50tlr I have been going through and this is next on the list. Do you have a video of adjusting the floats in the carbs?
I do not but but I checked the manual. It advises that when the carb is held upside down, the top of the float should be 15 mm +/- 1 from the edge of the carb body. Hope that makes sense.
Great video super helpful with my 40
Thanks !
Thanks 🙏 this is really helpful ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video!
Thank you very much!
Great video, how does this differ w/other makes like 96 Mariner 40 hp?
ON a Yamaha 40 hp 2 stroke on idle air jet on the end there is a tiny wire, Not having the top of carb off I seated the jet and broke off the wire, Do I need the wire? Or must I order another?
I would replace it, I've not seen a tiney wire on the 40 2 stroke so am not really sure.
Thank you man! This video helped me out a lot!
Glad it helped!
Question for you I have 120 hp Nissan two-stroke outboard the fuel cup where the screen filter cup drops down inside was flipped upside down in there. I don’t know how this happened or if somebody had gotten in there and worked on it previously but we have been having issues where the boat will not throttle up or hardly get up on plane it idles fine
Jose, by this system being a push control vs a pull does the pull option have an advantage vs the push? I’m struggling and with that I have new cables!? Control box is in great shape and when disconnected is smooth as butter!?
Not that I can tell. I think the push system is a little more finicky to adjust but beyond that, I have no preference for either.
Wouldnt happen to know the part number for that CDI Box?? Mine is stuck at about 15degrees of timing
I don't have that off hand. Its been a few years and I no longer have that engine. I would give them a call, that's what I did and their techs are extremely helpful in finding the right part and giving you whatever tech tips you might need.
What should I do if my lever with the adjustment screw that is supposed to be 20mm, doesn’t come in contact with the stopper below it
Same problem I had.
Great video, I learned so much!!
Thanks!
Excellent video very informative I’ll be watching more thanks keep up the good work!
Thank you Jeffery!
Hey this was really useful - is there anyway to test WOT without boat in water - ie disconnect gear shift? My engine dies at WOT but idles fine and goes forward to maybe 4 5 kts but as soon as WOT just cuts out - have stripped carbs but not sure now how to test without going back in water
There are simulated props that let you go WOT in a tank, typically used for timing adjustment at WOT. BUT, they are pretty pricy!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Thanks for this - just noticed again as I watch for 50th time - my roller in idle doesnt touch the black plastic part - @9.13 my roller is someway to the right - what do i need to adjust please?
@@ExtremeDIYGuy can i send you a video at all to get some help with a yamaha 40hp 2 stroke please?
merci pour cette vidéo très bien faite .il ne me reste plus qu'a essayer de faire la même chose sur mon moteur ,merci
Your welcome, thanks for watching!
I have a 2004 Yamaha 50 TRLD. Would the specs for set up be the same ?....Thanks,
They are slightly different The idle adjustment screw should be 1-5/8 for a 50M model and 1-3/8 for a 50EM model. +/-1/4 for both.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Thanks !
Hi Joe just watched your Videos great help easy to follow merry Xmas
Merry Christmas and thanks!
another great instructional!
Glad you enjoyed it
Can you help me locate the thermostat on a 40hp Yamaha outboard motor
It is not clear
I believe it may be on Port side of engine
Is it behind the oil resovoir
And help or video
Picture would be great
Hard to say without a pic but on mine it sts right above the exhaust cover.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I was able to locate with diagrams on parts list with pictures of location
Thanks
Hi do you have a video of linkage adjustment on oil pump my 2004 40tlrc is getting alot of oil smokes bad or advice thanks great video
Sorry, I dont have access to one at this point. It should be in the manual though.
I need to do this to my 1989 90 horsepower oil injected it's 90 etlr is it the same or a little bit different on the millimeters and measurements for everything? Great video by the way
Thanks, I'm not 100% sure but if you don't have access to a manual you might want to try 20mm as the starting measurement. Before you do anything, measure where it is at first in case you have to revert back to where it was. Good luck!
Where can I find your video on the adjusting of throttle and shift cables in Yamaha 704
I haven't worked on one so don't have a video for it, sorry.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy
No problem, I was just going by what you had said in your Yamaha sync and tune video that you were going to make a video showing how to adjust cables in a Yamaha controller...
I ended up selling the boat along with the Yami and the controller. I did adjust the cables on it before selling it but did not make a video. TBH, it was a pain in the butt. I'd like to get another Yamaha at some point, if I do I'll do my best to do a video on that. I ended up doing small adjustments on the controller end. Making the adjustments wasn't too hard. Lining everything up correctly was the challenging part.
Hey there. I have a 1998 evinrude intruder 115hp. When going on plane there is a clunk and when on plane its clunks periodically. It feels like i would of hit something. I checked the gear oil no metal shavings gears and dog clutch are fine. Could loose linkage cause the motor to make the clunking?
I am not a certified tech but think that something sounds off with the drive or the crankshaft. I would definitely have a shop look at it.
Is this the same process for a Yamaha 50 2 stroke? I followed step by step and my idle is higher than normal.
IT is very similar, you should be able to adjust the idle speed though
Alright question for you, got an 06 Yamaha 50 two stroke been giving me fits for a long time actually spoke with you about a year ago lol. Running rich exhaust will burn your eyes out. But also lean sneezing and poor idle if at all. Did the link and sync as shown. However will only run with the air screws out about 3 turns and poorly at best. Looking at the carb linkages after the sync the bottom carb is open considerably more than the other two. The linkage is perfect for the top two carbs bottom one most open up 1/8 + to install the linkage. Is this normal? I can’t see why is sneezing when it’s running so rich. I’ve tried from 1/2 turn out to almost 3 with no improvement. At 1 1/2 won’t even idle.
Something definitely sounds off. The sync sounds like it is off with the bottom carb. That could definitely cause a lot of issues. I would start with trying to fix that as it should be perfectly in sync with the other two carbs. Did you do a complete cleaning of the carbs? If not, I would do that first. I have a video on that as well.
Thank you. Lots of info.....
Your welcome!
Sir my boat quit an wouldn't start...after watching your video it's Running great...Thanks John from Florida
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
Hi Jose, The idle control screw(vertical screw at the 2nd carb) on my Yamaha plrp 40hp 2 stroke does not make contact with the stop on the carb even when it is tightened all the way in. Not sure what I should be adjusting to make the idle control screw make contact and work properly. Thanks
Something is off with the link and sync, you should probably go through the whole process from scratch.
Hi Jose ,can you tell me if a set of yamaha 6h5 carburettors bolt straight up and can I use a 40hp square bowl to replace the fuel enricher bowl .
My motor is 2000 6h4
Cheers fella
Brendan, I honestly have no idea. If I ever have the opportunity I would give it a shot but can't give you an honest answer.
Question, I have an 06 50TLR. I’ve set everything the way you showed, mine starts idles rough and shuts off when trying to give it throttle. If I push my CDI lever down while running it takes off. I’ve been fighting this forever now. Different tank, clean carbs new plugs. This was a motor swap and I had to purchase new cables. Will the link and sync cause these issues? I’ve tried everything I can think of to no avail!
Did you check the timing? I had to replace the CDI module on this engine as the timing was way off with the original.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I haven’t. I’m having a hard time getting it to run even on idle at this point. I’ve been through the entire fuel system and today I’ve found the prime start solenoid is bad. 0.0 ohms. I’m not sure that’s the overall issue though. Last year when I put this motor on it ran an idles just fine but would die as soon as I put it in gear in the water. New temp gas tank new hoses and bulb new fuel pump. Then got into the control cables today. I had to replace them for longer cables. Also tried disconnecting the low oil sensor. No dice. If I try to bump up the idle to make it run it dies instantly. I was thinking CDI but dang expensive gamble!
@@ancellsadventures They aren't cheap but may be worth a try. I bought mine from CDI electronic but did it because I know the timing was way off with the original. I'm not 100% sure but the carbs may be the culprit. Yamaha carbs are notorious for getting fouled up and the common theme is that you need a hydrosonic cleaner to open up the port to the idle jet. I'm actually going to dive into mine soon to see what all the talk is about but sounds like that might be a place to look. I've been told that these ports can be cleaned manually but haven't had the chance to try it myself.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I’ve been thinking timing all along honestly just did everything else I could first. I’m very familiar with small carbs and I’m satisfied that these are clean. I’m going to try and test my CDI and verify before pulling that trigger lol. Thanks for your help! Great video and ya got a new subscriber!
Thanks! One last piece of advice, call CDI Electronics tech assist and ask for the Yamaha expert, let him know what you're running into. I did that before changing the CDI and he spent some time on the phone with me, I learned more in 20 minutes about Yami's then a weeks worth of classwork! Checked out your channel, great job on the Whaler, sub'd to your channel. Best of luck.
Hello my name is Heni Guba from Hanuabada village National Capital District Port Moresby Papua New Guineaa, okay I have a yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke (electronic key starter) in running conditions but the problem I'm really facing is when I start the engine and put the gear in forward and turn the idle up it began to knock so can you give me some ideas on how to do it to or what to do with that knock, please
Gday mate i can see what you mean about the manual it seams a bit confusing as i am just about to do this ,my cdi unit is backward to what is shown in the manual ie the marks for adtdc and btdc i just have to hope that i am doing it the right way ,i have 1992 heto 40hp so its pretty old ,is that an aftermarket cdi unit on your motor ? mine is made by mitsubishi original , went to adjust the stop to 20mm and the hole where the adjustment screw goes was brokeni think my motor is cursed ,they dont make the brackets anymore so i will try to weld it back up to make it right .
It's a good engine, definitely worth the effort! Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy it has had its issues i can tell you completly calcified up it was the dirtiest greaseiest angine i have ever seen but not anymore ill get there in the end .
Hopefully the finish line is in sight!
I have a 2007 yamaha 50hp 2 stroke, will this work the same with my motor? New to outboard motors so trying to learn this as I go!
It will be similar but probably not the same, I would get an on line manual.
Howdy Joe...great video, just subscribed! I have an 08 90tlr and I just rebuilt and reinstalled my carbs. I didn't fiddle with the timing or linkages at all, I just sync the three valves and tried to get the mixture and idle right. When I synced, in order to get the bottom butterfly to close completely, I had to force it with my finger, and then tighten the screw...it seemed to be tugging on the oil pump linkage on the opposite side side.
Now they are in perfect sync, but the smell of raw gas coming from the motor is pretty overpowering. Did I do something obviously wrong? First time doing a project like this. Thanks :)
Sounds like there's a few things going on. As far as the fuel smell, that sounds like the float isn't closing the needle valve all the way on one of the carbs. On the linkage adjustment, you shouldn't have to force it, did you back the idle adjustment out before trying to sync the carbs to fully closed? You may want to also look at the oil mix adjustment and probably do a complete link and sync. I would suggest getting a service manual if you don't already have one, I found a pdf version on line for about $20
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank you. I have the shop manual, I used it for the carb rebuild.
I think having to force the bottom butterfly valve close was a result of the linkage getting caught up on the various oil lines around the tank and pump.
After running WOT this weekend for a while, it stalled coming out of gear and the bottom cylinder was completely flooded and gas was dumping out down the shaft.
I bought another rebuild kit so I'll be starting with that tomorrow. Thanks!
Great video do I need to bring piston to the top before I set carbs thanks for the help
Jose. Great video Thankyou just followed up on a 50hp boat run amazing but my tach is saying I’m running at 5k rpms but boat sounds and seems to be running perfect as if it is at 1k Rpms and idle screw on carbs is all the way out. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
If the idle screw are all the way out it is probably running too rich for one. Is it running at 1k or 5k?
Is this the same procedure for the 90tlr?
It should be relatively close. I would suggest buying a pdf version of the manual. I do that for any engine I work on.
Great video! Please show an image of the cable end position while in reverse
Actually I don't have that engine anymore sorry
Excellent video, probably the best one on the link and sync out there. So good.
One question, my cam accelerator/throttle accelerator only goes about 50% of the way and then feels stuck. The remote handles are also about 50% down. Feels like something is stuck with the cam accelerator. Can the spring fail or these parts be put on wrong? Or could it be a way of restricting the revs? Engine is a 3 cyl 2 stroke Yam.50HP. engines only reach 4500/4750 revs.
Thanks! I would start at the control box and work my way back to the engine to see if something is hanging up or mis-adjusted.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy will try that tomorrow 👌
@@mitchmix999 Make sure to check the engine first before doing anything to see if there's anything obviously wrong. I had a similar problem which was the control box but yours may be as simple as adjusting the throttle cable. at the engine.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Just had a look by taking the cam accelerator link off so i could push the remotes down. All good. Checked the cam accelerator and the movement in that was ok too. My guess is the 703 remote cable is a bit stiff and just needs a bit of working. Might be at it's end of life too?
Turned out the CDI output voltage to each HT lead was only 50V (spec is 125V minimum). On top of this, the CDI timing position is well out. I've replaced the CDI and 7 degrees is bang on the mark with new CDI unit. The old CDI unit, 7 degrees was near half way towards fully advanced. I can only assume this is an age related issue with the CDI. I've a twin engine setup and both units are showing the same failings....poor output voltage to HT lead and also timing no longer being accurate on the CDI.
Hey Joe I did a full link and sink on a 2007 Yamaha 90tlr 2 stroke the only thing I could not find is the distance I need to measure for the idle advanced do you happen to know what it is on my 90hp kind of got a sluggish low idle once I put it in forward gear at low speed so I believe that needs to be adjusted, I believe it was 20 mm on that 40 horsepower you're tuning tia
Clayton, unfortunately, I don't have a manual for a 90 so can't give you a definitive answer. I might be worth searching for the manual on yours, I've found a wealth of manual resources online in the past.
Do you know the specs on the timing marks on an OEM Yamaha Mitsubishi cdi box?
I do not sorry.
It so good to DIY. Thanks mate
Your welcome!
Great video man!
Thanks Kenny!
I have a 2002 50TLRC Yamaha. Will the specs on your video work on the 50HP?
Probably close but not exact, I always recommend you download a service manual if you are going to work on your own engines.
Thank you for responding back to me.
Hi, My motor is a Yamaha 150 Salt Series II - 2 strokes. It's smoking too much, Do you know where is the oil mixer control? Thank you.
The control link for that should be on the bottom carburetor port side. Follow the link to the oil mixer control. I don't have details on adjusting that though. I would get a copy of the manual for specifics.
The stop screw are you sure you done that right or is it to where it stops
I'm pretty sure I got that right.
Hello Jose, I am a certified RUclips diy mechanic. On a Yamaha 30 DMO 2 stroke, 3 cylinder i have a fast idle lever on the 703 controls. When i move it forward the idle speed goes up but not significantly. Should this lever be adjusted(or can it) to push the black round knob to wide open throttle?? It s the knob that is linked to all 3 carbs and i can only push it by hand in idle when i open the cover for maximum power or WOT... hope this makes sense. Thank you
excellent !! great job!!
Thanks!
Great video ! Thanks so much..
You are welcome!
Thanks. Tuned her up good.
Your welcome Kane!
Does this same process and specs work for the 50hp as well?
I literally just did it with my 50 and yes it works 100%
Hey Jose, I’ve got an ‘98 Yamaha 40hp. It’ll start great every time. But will only idle for about 10-15 sec. Then stops dead. At times it’ll slowly start to die but will die very suddenly. Turn the key straight away and she starts no problem. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
I would check your fuel system,. Here's a video that will give you some tips. aruclips.net/video/8NI9drrnB9Q/видео.html
Thanks for the video. Got a 1999 C40TLRX. It has a WOT mis. I checked the CDI settings and they obviously needed adjustments. I did it where the pointer lines up at idle and at WOT. Now motor starts and quits after RPM winds down. Any ideas what the problem could be?
I would start by checking the idle mix screws and then the idle control. Could be the linkage as well. I had to adjust mine back at the controller so everything would play nicely in the engine. Another are that could be causing that are the carbs. They are actually pretty easy to thoroughly clean (I have a video on that as well).
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thanks Jose. I think my pointer in the CDI was not indexed with the marks on the case and I may have throw the timing way off
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Found out my CDI was shot. I replaced it and WOT RPM now is smooth. Having a hard time making it idle smoothly.
I have a 1999 Yamaha c60 the pointer on my cdi box is just the opposite of that at an idle it's toward the single line and between the two lines at wide open position. it struggles to get up to speed but once on plane runs good and runs good at an idle. does this sound right to you? with the marks being reversed from you video?
That doesn't sound right at all. But I don't have access to a C60 manual so cant say definitively.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I did end up finding the information on a forum with the c60 Yamaha the single mark is idling and double line is wot. With that setting my timing is right on with the light.
Thank you for the video it was still helpful to me. Keep it up you do a great job of exploring the process.
I have a 2003 Yamaha 50TLRB
Do you think most of the measurement settings etc will be the same?
2 stroke
Probably so, but I would play it safe and download a pdf copy of the manual, I think I paid about $20 for mine,
Okay
I purchased a service manual but couldn’t find the idle stop mm information. Is there another manual out there? On Yamahapubs I can only purchase the service manual and owners manual. Maybe I will look on another site
Mine show it in the "periodic inspection and adjustment section", sub section titled "control system" section 3 page 2. My manual covers the 40 and 50hp version, you may want to measure where it's at now and then try 20mm (what mine calls for). Interestingly enough, mine was serviced by a Yamaha "pro" who left all the settings completely out of spec.
Question: I tried this on my 50hp yam. and did everything as you, but step one did not seem to have a stop.......I can take a pic and let you see if needed. thanks, brian
That's odd, there should be an idle stop, perhaps a picture might help. Or better yet, send me the exact year and model #, I might be able to look it up.
Thanks, it was very off and the bolt had a washer and it threw me off, I set that first and then recked all the rest. Great Job and ty for your help Brian @@ExtremeDIYGuy
Nice show 👍
Thanks 👍
My Yamaha grinds a bit when switching from forward to reverse, any recommendations?
The linkage probably needs adjustment, I would download the manual and follow the steps in it to adjust it correctly.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy your awesome! Thanks for your time(sharing information) and professionalism!
Great vid and super helpful.. nobody ever makes a good detailed vid but this guy is good!.. i have an 04 50hp yamah 2 stroke and she runs perfect until i throttle up and hit 1200 rpm then ahe coughs so hard wont get past 1200 rpm.. replace fuel system, fresh carb rebuild, new cdi (black box) im lost?? Anyone have ideas?
Sounds like a challenging problem. Did you check whether the tank is venting and the hoses and bulb aren't collapsing?
Jose let me make this clear when i say this.. you have saved me hundreds of $$ by posting this vid!!
P.O.V. i have just taken my yama to the shop for coughing / hard studder issues while accelerating anything over 1.5k rpms.. long story short, $700 for carb rebuild, $225 external fuel delivery system rebuilt/ water separator the whole 9 yrds. Ofcourse to no avail!.....So jose, finally the mechanic tells me its the "Black Box" aka C.D.I unit. So without hesitation i order a new one. $500 u.s.d for the box. Okay so i swapped the c.d.i. out for the new one.. launched the boat and was so excited to finally have fixed the prob. Only to once again have my motors spit and sputter like a lawn mower in the high grass.. parked the boat on the trailor and made the call to my mechanic and got another appt to spend probably another grand on b.s. but i had a few days before they could get the boat into shop.
This is when i stumbled across your channel. Seen this timimg adjustment vid, literally went out and brought a $5 digital caliber came to the boat and followed your specs word for word, # for #, and the boat runs like a scolded dog... i know its a long story but i wanted you to really understand how much you have help me brother... thank you so much for what you do and just keep posting no matter what jose! You give more than just diy tips in these videos, you really help build peoples confidence and morale. So keep it up bud🤘🤙
@@ExtremeDIYGuy 🤘
@@Fpvcandy This is the type of feedback that keeps me making DIY vids! I really appreciate this kind of feedback and am happy I was able to help! Thank you!
Hey Jose how you doing man! Glad to see your still up here posting and helping people with their d.i.y projects..
Recently purchased a Yamaha V4 115. It is a two-stroke and it is carbureted. Also, 704 rigging and binnacle.
I wonder what this same link and sink measurements work on that? 115?
Thanks Jose. I have a 97 C40 that is surging at high RPMs. Seems to fluctuate a few hundred RPMs when I reach about 4K. Checked for air leaks in fuel system and have found none. Carbs have been cleaned and new filter installed. Recently noticed fuel leaking from fuel pump, could this be the culprit?
That could very well be the problem, I would replace or rebuild it and see if that fixes the problem.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy i.have Yamaha 40 hp I set the cdi on the marks but snis and cohf and puf plos no power
Jose, I have replaced the fuel pump and cleaned the carbs again using your other helpful video and the problem still persists, any tips?
Will this also work for a 2005 Yamaha 70TLR?
Id recommend you get a manual for your specific engine as I cant say for sure.
Great videos
Thanks!
Good information
Thanks
Mine is a bit different, and is idling very very high in neutral not sure how to adjust
Hi Joe, what year Yamaha is that?
Hi Brian, it's a 1995
Do you adjust 90 yamaha 2 stroke 1998 the same way ??
Its probably similar but get the manual, i get a manual for every engine I work on.
do you have the link for your boat cover?
I can find it but have to warn you that it is ill fitting for this boat, it would have been better for a 12-14 ft skiff. (Affiliate Link) amzn.to/2RztIk7
My yamaha outboard CDI has I and II marked. Any idea which is high and which is low?
On all the ones I have seen I is low speed and II is high speed.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thanks
Thanks!
No problem! Thanks!
Thank you sir!!🤳🙏
Most welcome!
ID like to know how to do a 5 horsepower single cylinder Yamaha synchronising
I would find and download the shop manual for it. That's what I do for every outboard I work on.
I have a question how could I talk to you directly?
Best bet is email, extremediy01@gmail.com
how much price for the cdi? that cdi doesnt have power limit right?
I think it was around $300
@@ExtremeDIYGuy where can i get the cdi
www.cdielectronics.com/ @@FrankieBush-r7n
does it have power cut?
Is it the same for a 95 yamaha pro50?
ITs probably very similar, I would get a manual for that model.