Just the video I was looking for! You did a great job of pointing out what parts wear out. I'm about to remove the transaxle in my mower due to grinding noises. I found that the shift pin that has the ball detent doesn't fully engage sometimes and it appears that I might have some ground up parts in there. I'll find out tomorrow what the damage is. Thank you for providing this video.
thanks for making this video. I'd like to fill you in on the battery truth and myth as far as putting on concrete. a very long time ago, battery housings were made from natural rubbers and other materials that would allow a slow leech to ground if placed on earth/concrete. modern batteries do not have this problem so you can place it on whatever you please. the exception to this is that if your battery is dirty enough, a weak path could exist from the terminal across the dirt on the surface of the battery case to ground, as well is across the dirt on the battery from terminal to terminal which would drain the battery no matter where it is stored.
Thank you for this video. My Troybilt transaxle failed today. Wouldn't go forward. I put it in neutral, rolled it forward by hand and finally it engaged, but made clunking sound as you described. After I watch Part 2, I will try to order parts.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Realizing that you performed this transaxle repair over 4 years ago, I hope you can give me your source for parts. To date, I have been unable to locate parts online for a rebuild. Thank you again for this excellent two part video.
@@texbrew64 I looked up the model number of the lawnmower then and found the parts list, from there I found the transmission number and from there I found a break down of what was in the transmission.. But you can go to lowes ( with the model number from under the hood and they can look it up for you. I found that in my case there price was a few pennies cheaper the the best deal on the internet for new parts.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thank you for your timely reply and for your time. With this information I hope to find the needed parts. Happy Thanksgiving!
My 06 Super Bronco has been slipping in forward for years, but on rare occasions. After dedicating it to a 42" snow blower the forward gearing went out. I replaced all of the belts on the tractor and it would rotate the tires forward while jacked up off of the ground. When I placed it back on the ground it would not move forward and was making a loud racket but reverse still worked perfectly. I took apart the axle and everything looked fine while covered in a thick layer of grease so I started looking at videos and found this one. The diff works fine so I will have to take a closer look tomorrow at the drive shaft assembly. After watching this video I am certain that is the issue.
Great video You're lucky you can buy the individual parts. Here in Canada they don't list them. Would you be so kind as to provide links to the parts you bought & where to get them.
I searched around on ebay and other sites but I did find that in this case I could just get the parts from Troybult at the same price ( give of take a little ) and that way I know I have the proper part. you can find your mower model number under the hood cover or under the seat if not under the hood. here is the site www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts
Best overall trans ever made and the cheapest to fix Back in the best days in America history, like the vs units also Folks you think the new crap is great tell you see the cost 💲 to fix or replace it 😢😢😢
Beautiful! Thank you so much for greasing the way for my upcoming transaxle surgery ... never done anything like this before. How do you remove the grease?
Pressure washing or spray some grease remover on it and wash it down with a garden hose or just wipe it down with some old rags and a few paper towels. I pressure washed the axle before I started working on it. after I had removed it and pulled it apart I placed the whole thing in a drum and did a fast pressure wash in the guts of it ( but be careful because the water with splash back at you while doing it this way so wear protection. ) there are lots of way but just make sure you clean out ALL the gears because just one old metal chunk can cause problem if you don't. Now another way has a risk of fire and such, and that would be to use gasoline and a paint brush, but be careful because just one spark and there you have the recipe for a bad day. There are other solvents you can get at the parts store that will do the same job as gasoline so you would be better to find some of that and use it if you choose this course
Very good video there's not enough videos on transaxles but man those tires might help a little but I was worried about that 2 dollar strap you had holding the mowers up
that thing wit the battery,on wood,,my mechanic uncle told me the same in 1971,,i was 10,,but he said it matter,,and just told me to do it unless i wanted to mow that many yards,,to buy a new one,,been doing it ever since,,not sure why
Good video. But the camera placement wasn't ideal. A tripod with a gooseneck would allow for better placement. Great information though. I have a problem on my breaks where the rotor isn't spinning. I was hoping the teeth in the rotor stripped. But no suck luck. The tractor runs great forward and reverse. Will climb up a barn door if I wanted.
Yes, the breaking system on these are not the best. And yes I know my angels are not the best but I have been just using a Panasonic lumix DMC-Zs19 camera because it's what I have. ( and not it needs a new battery ) but I might purchase a couple of GH4 or a couple of go-pro 9 cameras or something along those lines in the future
Where did you get the part numbers for the two gears (forward and reverse) and the bushings and engagement mechism The part you said the teeth were worn on the front leading edge? Thanks
I looked up the model number of the lawnmower then and found the parts list, from there I found the transmission number and from there I found a break down of what was in the transmission.. But you can go to lowes ( with the model number from under the hood and they can look it up for you. I found that in my case there price was a few pennies cheaper the the best deal on the internet for new parts. as for the leading edge issue I will say that swapping the gears from one side to the other does not work the way it may seem since the main drive gear will still hit the gears from the same side
Great video! My tractor is locked and I cannot shift into any gear (forward, neutral or reverse). Never heard any grinding. Is is possible something (broken tooth) is jammed in the transaxle or would it be something to do with the brake?
I could list lots of things that it could be, but they all hide inside of the trans-axle so you would need to pull it a part anyway. as for the break being a problem there is little chance of that because they are so weak. but you can test it by lifting one wheel off the ground then supporting the mower and then trying to turn the brake rotor on the side of the trans-axle ( with the engine off )
Thanks for this video. I wonder if you know what the problem is when the wheel axles can move in and out a lot? Works so far but is afraid that this could lead to a breakdown.
that sound more like the outside bushings are broke off or wore down. Notice when I remove the tire/ rim at 3:20 that there is a black bushing left on the axle right behind where the rim was? that can break off or where down. so you need to check to see how much of the movement is the axle or is it play in the gap from the rim to the bushing
Thank you for taking your time to make a video like this it is very helpful and I am about ready to tackle this project this week. The only question I have is the pulley you first took off yo showed all 3 but you never said what one you took off. Is it the pulley that pinches the belt that you removed first,
I removed the pulley closer to the front of the mower ( the tension one ) but I only remove it to get some slack you could remove the largest pulley and do the same thing but that pulley can be a pain to break loose so I just went after the other one. but with that said you can leave them all on and get the slack you need once you start removing the bolts that hold the transmission in the lawnmower. ( but it is better to just remove that small pulley ( you do not remove the double pulley ) Hope this helps
hello, I know it's a while ago i have same trans I took mine apart because the brakes would grab the rotor but mower don't stop i thought i would see something broken, but everything looks good any ideas thanks tom.
There might be an adjustment on your mower ( may be an arm you have to pull out of one hole and place in another ) ( but if it was me I would just run it up and down a hill a few times going slow and fast over and over and see it it settle in and stops the problem.
hello, thanks for the video, I am writing to you from Italy, I have a problem with my lawn mower, with the forward gear if I am going downhill it picks up speed and you can hear a noise at the transmission (continuous beat), which it doesn't do if I go downhill in reverse. What can it depend on? Thanks Marc
Good chance that is wear on your forward side of the gears. the gears can wear / or chip on one side and still be in good shape on the other. If that is the case then what is in this video will fix the problem. Now there is a chance that you could just add a small bushing behind the gear and stop the problem ( if no chips are on the gear ) but this would just be a patch and not fix the real problem.
I have a question about the transmission on this and would like to reach out to you about a metal washer I found in the case broken in pieces. All the diagrams I see online do not show those metal washers sold separately. It looks like 2 on one side of the axel shaft near the center and diagram doesn't show other side and now I have no metal washers on the other side. Can I send you pictures?
part number on left of page, www.troybilt.com/en_US/transmissions-and-parts/drive-shaft-assembly/918-04079.html#q=13bx60tg&lang=en_US&start=197 main page of mower www.troybilt.com/en_US/prior-year-models/super-bronco--troy-bilt-riding-lawn-mower-/13BX60TG766.html#q=13bx60tg&lang=en_US&start=0?q=13bx60tg&lang=en_US&start=0&scroll=113
Great job!! Thanks for the video. Where did you find the parts to rebuild the unit. I’m having trouble locating them? Do you have the part or parts numbers
I used the model number ( it is under the hood ) and searched around on ebay and other sites but I did find that in this case I could just get the parts from Troybult at the same price ( give or take a little ) and that way I know I have the proper part. here is the site www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts
Great video! What was the first thing you removed? You went back at 1:00 -1:20 to show us the pulleys I can only assume you were removing one of them. I have one of these mowers, a 2007 Troy Bilt Super Bronco with a single-speed transaxle. It works great as I have been very methodical about maintenance. That being said I do have a concern. When in forward gear mine makes a whining noise and the faster I go the louder it gets. There are no grinding noises, no jumps, jerks or other problems. Any suggestions? I have a newer Toro ZTR and plan to sell my Troy Bilt, but I want it to reliable for the buyer.
It has been an while since I made this video but I think I used a pair of vice grips and clamped onto one lip on the pulley edge then used that to wedge it . but you do not have to remove the pulley while it is in the mower, if you remove the bolts holding the trans-axle the the belt will come off as you drop the rear. ( do not use vice grip and hold the pulley biting the top and bottom flange at the same time as that will just crush the metal of the pulley into the 'V' of where the belt rides. )
My exact problem. Troy-bilt pony w/manual transaxle, and I hit something and trashed the gearbox. My question: where do you buy the parts. The manual only shows the complete transaxle. It doesn't list individual gears. I can't afford to buy the whole unit.
I looked up the model number of the lawnmower then and found the parts list, from there I found the transmission number and from there I found a break down of what was in the transmission.. But you can go to lowes ( with the model number from under the hood and they can look it up for you. I found that in my case there price was a few pennies cheaper the the best deal on the internet for new parts.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thank you! Lowe's never occurred to me, even though I bought it there. Since they stopped carrying the Troy-bilt brand, they have not been good about getting anything Troy-bilt. That will be my first place to look now.
ok mine is a bit different it has 1 gear and the reverse is thru a chain. it has pins for the dogs and they are all good it still pops out of gear no matter where i adjust the shifter. so i'm going to modify the linkage and move the hole out from the pivot. plus i checked the bushings they were good i greased the vari drive slack sheaves and i still have the whine so it must be just part on the system. if the mod to the pivot linkage works i will come back and say it did.
yes concrete will make a battery go weak but it on rubber tire Need a rubber mat to set batteries on Also concrete will zap the life out of your tires make em hard and crack. Need to park on rubber mats
i am doing this same job same transaxle etc etc ,,,,,BUT i cant find nothing rounded shipped broken that would give me a smoking gun ! i was hearing a hell of a grinding in forward i was sure id find pierces everywhere but NO ,,,,the only thing that is a little suspicious is those fr rev gears have a wobble on the shaft which they slide on , if i am right and i dont know yet it would make the pinion gear slip , but i dont even see worn out gears so far ? HELP LOL ,,,,going to sleep on this one for now thanks for your video ,,,,how did you clean all that grease out of there did you make a mess ,,lol cause i did and its not all clean yet ,,,,,
Lots of de greasers at the parts store but you can just use diesel fuel and a brush ( Warning fire hazard so be careful ) and yes it does sound like your gears are wore out but it could just be the side bushings You can bring the model number to Home depot and find the parts to use
Can you routine maintenance these rear axles? Like change the oil in them? I have a Troy built pony that I’m sure has never had maintenance done. Just wanting to avoid this work if possible. Thank you!
Yes that is a good idea to do some preventive maintenance, and it's not as much work as it looks. biggest thing after checking for chipped gears is to make sure the grease is still in it and not dried out. also check where the main drive intake shaft ( the one with the large pulley on top ) does not have much side ways play in it where it goes through the casing if you catch is early enough you might just be able to repace a bushing
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 ok thank you very much for the advice! I’ll be doing that soon to my mower. Seems easy enough. Do you know what type of lubricant to put back?
I’m kinda wonder mine is a really hard shift from F-N-R and doesn’t like to stop forward or reverse like when you put in a drive you have to jamb it into neutral to stop and is real hard. I was wondering if you think it’s the Ball Bearing?
Could be the ball bearing or the grease has dried out in parts or something got into you shifter arm and damaged it. make sure the leakage is normal first. the tear-down of these is not hard and it could be good just to know what it looks like inside of you case and that way you would not need to wonder about the health of it.
I did seem the shifter was a little bent. Straitened on gears looked ok. I cleaned and 00 greased the whole transaxle. The issue is still won’t stop so the break shoes are next…..but when I put it in Neutral it won’t shift eg in Forward gear when shifted to Neutral it keeps going Forward and won’t stop have to shift to Reverse to stop. When in Reverse shift to Neutral it keeps going in Rev then have to shift to Forward to stop but it takes off Forward. I’ve adjusted to shift lever helping some but not fixing it. I’m guessing the issue is in the Fwd and Rev gear possible the Gear that runs between them and the lever too. What do you think. It also really hard to shift.
1- diesel fuel and a stiff brush ( even an old tooth brush will work ( of course you could start a fire using fuel if you are not careful. ) 2- a pressure washer ( but not set at high pressure,and keep in mind that the grease can spray back into your face when using a pressure washer. 3- wipe out all the grease you can with old rags then use WD-40 or carburetor cleaner spray to wash out the rest ( again be careful of back spray and fire hazards.) 4- the safest way is to wipe out the extra grease then place it in a bucket of water and Dawn dish-washing liquid and take a tooth brush to it. but it will try to rust after you finish so you would need to be ready to put some new grease on it or spray it down with 3M oil ( sewing machine oil ) to keep it safe from rusting
When I did mine I searched many places and did purchase from a couple different places but in the end I noticed that in this case it is better to just get it from the manufacture. The prices are about the same as other places but this way you know you have the real parts. www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw48-vBhBbEiwAzqrZVIIhmrbRBOabsew1HV2vLqaLJJx-m6WKQZsQfP59ki2ITcYLyQz-zBoCs04QAvD_BwE
Back when I purchase the parts. I did a big search on the internet and found that actually Lowe's Home Improvement who sells the stuff to begin with has good prices on the rebuilt Parts as well. And you know you're getting too genuine product
How's it holding up? Mine 50" big red horse has the rattling noise and it really just does it after the rearend starts getting hot. Last year it started and this cutting season it's starting to not pull as fast as it use to so I'm thinking the noise in rear end is the issue. Great video I'm sure my bigger version of this mower will be about the same design.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Glad to hear it doing great still. Yeah I put new main belt couple years back and man it was a bear to get to I had to flip mower up on it's side and 50" garden tractor is heavy and hard to do anything with. The rattling noise started last year and with it getting hot and doing it and slowing down only after the rattling has been happening for a while makes me think it's the rearend but good tip on checking the belt. Believe it or not the 92 MTD still has even it's original drive belt.
Are you still out there? My MTD is sticking going from F to N to R. My local shop says it is a scrapper - though they refuse to take it apart. Looking at this mechanism, I am puzzled as to what could cause it to stick BOTH ways. Any thoughts before I rip it apart?
I hat a reply for you but I realized it turned into a small book :o) So I will make a video and go over this and post the link here soon ( in under 2 days
I would say that a large chip broke off from a gear and is now getting stuck into the other gears as you push the mower. This is why I made sure to clean the trans-axle part as well when I rebuilt mine
Look for your model number ( should be under the hood, but might be under the seat ) and then go to Home Depot and ask then about ordering the parts for you... The parts are about the same price you could find them on Ebay and then you would know it is the right parts
Thanks for this video. I bought a 3rd hand 07 Pony. After about 5 uses, mine started slipping, or so I thought. I changed the drive belts and still the same thing. So, I'm looking at needing to do his to mine. Just wondering if you were experiencing slipping issues also. Or what yours may have been doing. Thanks
Wilkes Fountain. Thank you. 1 last question and I will leave you alone. Do you remember the number of the washer you added? My bearing sleeves, for some reason, were applying roo much pressure when I bolted mine back up. So, essentially the only new parts I am using are the gears and collar. But, I would like to try and minimize the slack. But, mine was grinding and slipping, it wasn't as bad as yours.
@@fido3561 I found a local small engine place that ordered them. They were just a little cheaper than ereplacementparts.com. my tractor forum.com is where I started with my diagnosis
Jj Hearn Thanks for the reply. I ordered from replacement. didn't buy any gears just seals bushings. 55.00. Went to my local junk yard and picked a whole trans with good tires and rims for 75.00. They separate all the cars from mowers. I did ck the gears and changed the grease. Very little wear. Thanks again, take care have a great day.
Warning no matter how you clean the part be careful of anything that can cause a fire. so read the container an avoid sparks of any kind. You can use 1-a parts washer. 2 - de-greaser spray. 3- go-jo and an old toothbrush ( do not use on teeth after ). 4- carburetor cleaner. 5- Dawn foaming spray. 6- Steam cleaner ( the large type that would be used to clean things like heavy equipment. but the parts would need to be secured down and you would need to have eye and body protection to keep the junk from getting all over you from splash-back ) 7- old rag and a lot of time. I left out the cleaning for sake of time in the video. but the fixing part was in the video.
Pressure washing or spray some grease remover on it and wash it down with a garden hose or just wipe it down with some old rags and a few paper towels. Then buy new grease and put it back in there!
Late reply but I am just now seen your message because I was looking at the video ( I never got an alert on it ) Now as far as the fluid if it does not have a drain plug then you would need to split the housing open. I wish they all had a drain plug but that would make it too easy to work on at home.
I had went o Lowes as I found that the prices were as good as "The deal" I found on the internet, but now Home Depot has the Troybilt contract and although they can look up the parts for you some of them do not like to order them as that is not something they do ( I went and asked one about the steering bushing once and was told this ) but you can try the Troybilts website www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts And there are lots of parts on ebay but they may be of questionable quality
You see any thick metal for a hitch for that troy built? All i see is tin.. I for got a gr8 video> Hope never have to do that again.. Where getting to old for this stuff , dam back cheers man
Home depot has the troy bilt contract. I have found parts ( new ) on ebay as well, and you can check your local co-op store they can get parts and they have in stock some of the hard to find parts like the steering gear. and of course there are random places on the internet
Just a guess. 200 labor and 150 parts. unless they say you need a whole new rear end ( to save themselves some work ) then they might say 500 parts and 100+ labor. Most mechanics can do a change out in under an hour, I can do one in half an hour but a rebuild takes about an hour extra and it is messy to handle the grease
Well, I had tracked down a website that had great prices that seemed to beat many other websites. But then I went to Lowes ( where the mower was sold ), and they had the same parts for a few cents cheaper and the added bonus of knowing that it was the real parts. Now, this is not always the case, but it was for me. Many times you will have to pay a lot more when going back to the store that sold the item.
How do I adjust my clutch ? I push it in but it's hard to change the gears and the brake doesn't stop. I have to shut the motor off to shift into either forward or reverse ! WTF is wrong ?
Sound like you have a drive belt that not long enough and the system is staying engaged. ( or the belt has flipped over and now seem larger to the adjustable pulley, either way you would need a new belt ) it could also be that spring you talked about in the other post, if it is not mounted right it could be making the belt be over stressed ( tight )
Also check the large fan-belt wheel that goes into your transmission ( the main pulley ) and see if it has a lot of wobble back and forth, if it does then chances are the case itself is bad and there is not much that can be done for that ( nothing that would be worth the price of repair )
Well in this case I did try find good deals on the internet, but to my surprise Home Depot was able to order what I needed and I saved a couple of cent. ( I ordered the gears from Home depot )
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thks for the quick answer (I'm not use to getting any at all). I like the way you used your accent. 1st, keep everyone know what you doing & why you doing it. 2nd, it's entertaining like folk poetry. I'm a retired geek & have been geeking-out on what transaxle I should get on my next used garden tractor. I just might stay with Troy-bilt & just fix the transaxle when I break it. Here's a bunch of riding mower links you might or might not like: www.today.com/money/cheapism-best-budget-riding-mowers-6C10282306 todaysmower.com/riding-mower-brands/ todaysmower.com/the-best-lawn-yard-garden-tractor-buyers-guide/ Differences Between Riding Mowers,Lawn Tractors,Yard Tractors, and Garden Tractors. ruclips.net/video/UWyPQWHWgt8/видео.html GT mowers: John Deere, Husqvarna, Cab cadet have better transaxles IHT Transaxle series K (K46, K57, K58, K62, K66, K72) www.kanzaki.co.jp/en/products/transmission/iht_k_k46k57k58k62k66k72.html 5ThzEGAAUtJiHvv7LwxQR5o9od5s4ClNBH8ds6zY7FUFyIaAj_6EALw_wcB K46 new ~$700 (rebuild kit ~$370) ; K66 new ~$1600 (rebuild kit ~$500) Tuff Torq, Repair Kit K46 Extended 1A646099591 ($370) mulliganspartscompany.com/tuff-torq-repair-kit-k46-extended-1a646099591/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9JzoBRDjARIsAGcdIDWH0jFgC Troy bilt transaxle rebuild. Part 1 of 2 removing the drive. ruclips.net/video/mrRFhqVAqD4/видео.html Troy bilt transaxle rebuild. Part 2 of 2 installing the drive. ruclips.net/video/Dxq9oeCnT4s/видео.html The Grease is called "00" grease. you can find it at Tractor supply stores and it will cost about five dollars. The official grease would cost around twenty dollars. Grease in a SQUEEZE BOTTLE MTD Lawn Tractor Differential Troubleshooting ruclips.net/video/gPPa-XixSAw/видео.html Parts below Part 1 John Deere L Series Transmission Repair- Removal ruclips.net/video/YDjhAo6aZ7s/видео.html Part 3 John Deere L Series Tractor Trans Rebuild- Open it UP-side down ruclips.net/video/mZjNErnMNYo/видео.html 1 Hydrostatic Garden Tractor transmission rebuild 1 of 4 Hydro Gear ruclips.net/video/lo5UILc52pE/видео.html Tuff Torq K66 Hydrostatic Transaxle Rebuild - Part 1 ruclips.net/video/AVpTCGIJ1ls/видео.html Hydro transmission K46 12 year old riding mower study ruclips.net/video/x6Ew_vSjPEA/видео.html k46 teardown and explanation. (NO PART 2 SEE DESCRIPTION!!) ruclips.net/video/d2JTSPFvNbo/видео.html Hydrostatic Transmission Repair. (Part 1) TUFF TORQ (Husqvarna) ruclips.net/video/CkiTH32v-Sg/видео.html Hydrostatic Transmission Repair. (Part 2) TUFF TORQ (Husqvarna) ruclips.net/video/matO2hlN3Mc/видео.html Hydrostatic Transmission Repair. (Part 3) TUFF TORQ (Husqvarna) ruclips.net/video/JOLqV4Qs6vY/видео.html lawn mower transmission Gear: Commonly referred to as manual transmissions, this type of mower uses ground speed to shift. The biggest downfall of this kind of transmission is that you’ve got to shut the tractor off to shift into an alternate range. This makes them more difficult to use, when you’ve got lots of landscape characteristics and garden beds to go around. This is a dependable transmission option, offering years of service to you. Friction Disc: When used correctly, it’s a highly dependable transmission. It uses the forward rate of your rider to alter its gear. It’s possible for you to change on-the-go with some versions, but to get the longest lifespan out of your product, most brands recommend you shove down on the clutch or brake pedal, then shifting to the rate you need. Automatic: This is essentially a belt and pulley system, that varies, much like the drive system in a snowmobile. This was initially used in conjunction with John Deere products. These mowers are not designed to pull heavy loads. To drive the tractor, you’ll generally use two levers. Use the F/R lever to to alter the rate you need to go. This is a dependable transmission option that can give you years of service for level yards, and pulling at loads that are really light. CVT/IVT (Always/Infinitely Variable Transmission): MTD have attempted using the IVT Infinitrak, doubled in the Craftsman Revolution and the Cub Cadet. Consumers haven’t typically been prepared to spend the extra cash to possess this kind of transmission, however. These transmissions are certainly simpler to use. Whether or not they are fender-mounted alters the rate and direction. Hydrostatic: Hydrostatic transmissions are more costly than mechanical transmissions, but they’re easier to use and can carry greater torque to the wheels, when compared with an average mechanical transmission. Enclosed Double Hydrostatic: A different back wheel is controlled by each trans. This is the main reason why zero-turn mowers are more expensive compared to lawn tractors. Most of these mowers were not designed to pull loads, but simply to tote and mow. MTD Genuine Factory Parts Riding Mower & Tractor Attachments www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Outdoor-Power-Equipment-Riding-Mower-Tractor-Attachments/MTD-Genuine-Factory-Parts/N-5yc1vZbx56Zalr Nordic Plow easily attaches to the Cub Cadet plow assembly ruclips.net/video/3GC3n9NEMOM/видео.html The difference between a sleeve hitch and a 3 point hitch? www.mytractorforum.com/345-backyard-round-table-faq-stickies-section/209117-difference-between-sleeve-hitch-3-point-hitch.html ostton.info/sleeve-hitch-for-lawn-tractor/ www.humana-global.org/garden-tractor-sleeve-hitch-plans.html Garden Tractor Sleeve Hitches www.humana-global.org/garden-tractor-sleeve-hitch.html MTD makes Cub Cadet®, Troy-Bilt®, and Remington®, as well as Robomow®, Yard Machines®, Rover®, WOLF-Garten®, and Bolens®. Mtd Genuine Parts Sleeve Hitch $190 www.lowes.com/pd/mtd-genuine-parts-hitch-kit/1000250741?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_-146-_-sosridingmowers-_-1000250741-_-0&kpid&k_clickID=go_1793258876_70187394213_348537320865_pla-351061847729_c_9006686&gclid=Cj0KCQjwov3nBRDFARIsANgsdoGgaVr4_ehYAXGnzzyabE0VvXTywYdzf0h8JfP2AO3CSn1rfdcpR18aAuzQEALw_wcB Universal Electric Sleeve Hitch for Quality Lawn & Garden Tractors (~$700) www.johnnyproducts.com/J_Bucket_HTMs/UNI_Sleeve_Hitch.htm
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 I couldn't quite find the inner transaxle parts on the home depot website. ?Could you provide a link to them? Transaxle parts www.discountonlineparts.com/lawnmower/?c=Transmission%20Parts&b=Troy%20Bilt www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a21b323c25/Troy-Bilt-Lawn-Mower-Transmission-Brake-Clutch-Parts Lawn Tractor Transaxle 918-04566B (previous part 918-04566A) $~400 www.searspartsdirect.com/product/55qi0gj34q-0071-247/id-918-04566a
So my mower Jerks hard when you are turning left or right but is fine when you drive in a straight line .I'm not sure why, How ever my Dad sent me this video before he passed and really hoping checking all the gears will help. If you or anyone maybe have any clues as to why it does this it would be greatly apparated. As I have no one to ask about this stuff anymore. Jean-
Sounds like it is in your trans-axle Differential area ( at 20:25 in this video ) and that's one of the worst things that can go wrong with it. also notice at 19:49 in the video the area I am touching. that feeds the power from the engine to the pulley ( not installed in video ) and the the shaft goes through the case and that can wear out the case itself and cause the shaft to wobble. you can test it by grabbing the pulley and try to move it side to side and feel for extra play. but again this is a very bad problem to have, the right machine shop could re-drill it and put a sleeve in it but at that point it's just better to get another one. Ps make sure your tires are the same size on the rear and that they have proper pressure as well, this will not fix any damage but it will take some stress off the system. it has been a while but it seems like a new rear end like these will cost about 500 hundred dollars . Now with that said there is a chance that you are having the same problem that is in this video and it is only showing up while you are turning because the stress changes just enough to trip the problem. I say just pull it apart / clean it up and give it a good look.. good chance you will see the problem that is the good thing about these system. ( you can check the shaft wobble without removing the drive-train just remove the belt and rock the pulley back and forth. ( speaking of belts... make sure they are not slipping and causing problems ) If it was me and it had housing damage I would just write it off
I have not worked on the Differential parts ( never had that part go bad ) so you might want to get a second option here ruclips.net/video/gPPa-XixSAw/видео.html
I searched the internet but on these items it was cheaper just to get them from Home depot. and that was good since I knew the part would not be some off brand. so yeah get your model number ( most of them are listed under the hood of the mower ) and tell then what you need I paid about $60.00 for everything I replaced in mine
True. It would not be wise to go any higher than I did in this video because then you might have oil seep by your engine rings and fill up your piston area and that could cause a problem when you hit the starter. But if you are worried about this then just remove the spark plug and give the engine a good spin ( crank-over ), and if it has oil in the piston it will spray out ( all over everything in front of it ) then put the spark plug back in, and you are good to go.
My first video that fixes that problem will be out in a couple of days. When I started this channel I just wanted to share some things before I got too old. I would just toss an old camera around the area and shoot. but I have been noticing that I need to show more and have better lighting, so I will stage my shots better and soon I will purchase a better camera for these videos ( I have a blackmagic pocket 4k but it has no real focus and would not be very good in this environment ) I will also be working a some intros to the page as well...right now I am trying to decide on a new name for the channel,,, or just keep the one I am using
Most of my videos show the basic way of doing a project. Some people don't have Jack stands, but there is a good chance they have a strap or even a rope or chain. But it would not be easier to remove the deck and use Jack stands. The mower can get bumped and slip off of Jack stands very easy, and since you took the time to remove the deck, you would not even have that to keep the thing from smashing down on you. The way I did it in the video looks strange, but even if you kicked it sideways, it would still be hanging on the strap. And even if it did fall it would land on the tires that have more grip than the metal Jacks so this way is faster, safer and cheaper.. but it does not look like the basic shop school way. (and I don't mean that to sound like an insult because it is not. I am just pointing out why the way I do it in the video looks off to some people. ) Now with that said I want people out there to know that the Jack stand way he talks about is the more standard way it can be used as well. Just make sure there is no danger of someone bumping into the mower while it is on Jack stands and that you do not pull too hard on the mower ( as in pulling to loosen a bolt ) while it is on Jack stands or you might end up in the E.R Room.
Please don't do a video showing people to use a tree and a rachet strap to lift any heavy machinery. Crazy. Go to Home Depot and get a proper lift. Please, and redo the video
At 2:57 I warn people this is not the safest thing to do. Plus I put the wheel / tires under it is case it did fall. But You are welcome to make your own video and show people the super safe way.
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Just the video I was looking for! You did a great job of pointing out what parts wear out. I'm about to remove the transaxle in my mower due to grinding noises. I found that the shift pin that has the ball detent doesn't fully engage sometimes and it appears that I might have some ground up parts in there. I'll find out tomorrow what the damage is. Thank you for providing this video.
Great job of explaining it and we normal folk enjoyed it 😊
Thanks. I am glad you liked it.
luv your style,,not trying to be an actor,straight and to the point,,good job
Thanks. Glad it helped
My 07 Troy Built just started grinding when I put it into gear. Thanks for the educational video. Greatly appreciated
You're welcome. glad the video helped
thanks for making this video. I'd like to fill you in on the battery truth and myth as far as putting on concrete.
a very long time ago, battery housings were made from natural rubbers and other materials that would allow a slow leech to ground if placed on earth/concrete.
modern batteries do not have this problem so you can place it on whatever you please.
the exception to this is that if your battery is dirty enough, a weak path could exist from the terminal across the dirt on the surface of the battery case to ground, as well is across the dirt on the battery from terminal to terminal which would drain the battery no matter where it is stored.
Yes this reply is years late. Yes I would agree with what you said about batteries in your post
Thank you for this video. My Troybilt transaxle failed today. Wouldn't go forward. I put it in neutral, rolled it forward by hand and finally it engaged, but made clunking sound as you described. After I watch Part 2, I will try to order parts.
You are welcome.Glad it helped
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Realizing that you performed this transaxle repair over 4 years ago, I hope you can give me your source for parts. To date, I have been unable to locate parts online for a rebuild. Thank you again for this excellent two part video.
@@texbrew64 I looked up the model number of the lawnmower then and found the parts list, from there I found the transmission number and from there I found a break down of what was in the transmission..
But you can go to lowes ( with the model number from under the hood and they can look it up for you. I found that in my case there price was a few pennies cheaper the the best deal on the internet for new parts.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thank you for your timely reply and for your time. With this information I hope to find the needed parts. Happy Thanksgiving!
My 06 Super Bronco has been slipping in forward for years, but on rare occasions. After dedicating it to a 42" snow blower the forward gearing went out. I replaced all of the belts on the tractor and it would rotate the tires forward while jacked up off of the ground. When I placed it back on the ground it would not move forward and was making a loud racket but reverse still worked perfectly. I took apart the axle and everything looked fine while covered in a thick layer of grease so I started looking at videos and found this one. The diff works fine so I will have to take a closer look tomorrow at the drive shaft assembly. After watching this video I am certain that is the issue.
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Great video
You're lucky you can buy the individual parts. Here in Canada they don't list them.
Would you be so kind as to provide links to the parts you bought & where to get them.
I searched around on ebay and other sites but I did find that in this case I could just get the parts from Troybult at the same price ( give of take a little ) and that way I know I have the proper part. you can find your mower model number under the hood cover or under the seat if not under the hood. here is the site www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts
outstanding vid of how it works--betting your a doctor , thanks so much for taking time to do this enjoyed watching
Thanks for watching.
Any man driving Metro got my respect
has over 300,000 miles on it
Love your work, thank you for this video.
You're Welcome
SUPWER - SUPER helpful video. THANKS for publishing this.
You're welcome, glad it helped
Best overall trans ever made and the cheapest to fix
Back in the best days in America history, like the vs units also
Folks you think the new crap is great tell you see the cost 💲 to fix or replace it 😢😢😢
Thanks so much. I don't know yet if I will attempt this but this is a valuable video.
Thanks. you find it to be very easy to do.
Beautiful! Thank you so much for greasing the way for my upcoming transaxle surgery ... never done anything like this before.
How do you remove the grease?
Pressure washing or spray some grease remover on it and wash it down with a garden hose or just wipe it down with some old rags and a few paper towels. I pressure washed the axle before I started working on it. after I had removed it and pulled it apart I placed the whole thing in a drum and did a fast pressure wash in the guts of it ( but be careful because the water with splash back at you while doing it this way so wear protection. ) there are lots of way but just make sure you clean out ALL the gears because just one old metal chunk can cause problem if you don't. Now another way has a risk of fire and such, and that would be to use gasoline and a paint brush, but be careful because just one spark and there you have the recipe for a bad day. There are other solvents you can get at the parts store that will do the same job as gasoline so you would be better to find some of that and use it if you choose this course
Great job, Roll Tide Bro. ...
Nice metro. Best mpg car ever
What's the name of the parts to order?
Very good video there's not enough videos on transaxles but man those tires might help a little but I was worried about that 2 dollar strap you had holding the mowers up
that thing wit the battery,on wood,,my mechanic uncle told me the same in 1971,,i was 10,,but he said it matter,,and just told me to do it unless i wanted to mow that many yards,,to buy a new one,,been doing it ever since,,not sure why
Good video. But the camera placement wasn't ideal. A tripod with a gooseneck would allow for better placement. Great information though. I have a problem on my breaks where the rotor isn't spinning. I was hoping the teeth in the rotor stripped. But no suck luck. The tractor runs great forward and reverse. Will climb up a barn door if I wanted.
Yes, the breaking system on these are not the best. And yes I know my angels are not the best but I have been just using a Panasonic lumix DMC-Zs19 camera because it's what I have. ( and not it needs a new battery ) but I might purchase a couple of GH4 or a couple of go-pro 9 cameras or something along those lines in the future
Where did you get the part numbers for the two gears (forward and reverse) and the bushings and engagement mechism The part you said the teeth were worn on the front leading edge? Thanks
I looked up the model number of the lawnmower then and found the parts list, from there I found the transmission number and from there I found a break down of what was in the transmission..
But you can go to lowes ( with the model number from under the hood and they can look it up for you. I found that in my case there price was a few pennies cheaper the the best deal on the internet for new parts. as for the leading edge issue I will say that swapping the gears from one side to the other does not work the way it may seem since the main drive gear will still hit the gears from the same side
Great video! My tractor is locked and I cannot shift into any gear (forward, neutral or reverse). Never heard any grinding. Is is possible something (broken tooth) is jammed in the transaxle or would it be something to do with the brake?
I could list lots of things that it could be, but they all hide inside of the trans-axle so you would need to pull it a part anyway. as for the break being a problem there is little chance of that because they are so weak. but you can test it by lifting one wheel off the ground then supporting the mower and then trying to turn the brake rotor on the side of the trans-axle ( with the engine off )
Thanks for this video. I wonder if you know what the problem is when the wheel axles can move in and out a lot? Works so far but is afraid that this could lead to a breakdown.
that sound more like the outside bushings are broke off or wore down. Notice when I remove the tire/ rim at 3:20 that there is a black bushing left on the axle right behind where the rim was? that can break off or where down. so you need to check to see how much of the movement is the axle or is it play in the gap from the rim to the bushing
Thank you for taking your time to make a video like this it is very helpful and I am about ready to tackle this project this week. The only question I have is the pulley you first took off yo showed all 3 but you never said what one you took off. Is it the pulley that pinches the belt that you removed first,
I removed the pulley closer to the front of the mower ( the tension one ) but I only remove it to get some slack you could remove the largest pulley and do the same thing but that pulley can be a pain to break loose so I just went after the other one. but with that said you can leave them all on and get the slack you need once you start removing the bolts that hold the transmission in the lawnmower. ( but it is better to just remove that small pulley ( you do not remove the double pulley ) Hope this helps
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 thank you for your help going to tackle this wednesday or thursday when the parts get here. Thanks again. Bob
hello, I know it's a while ago i have same trans I took mine apart because the brakes would grab the rotor but mower don't stop i thought i would see something broken, but everything looks good any ideas thanks tom.
Question for ya…….just changed both belts , after do so once it starts it starts moving slow without touching throttle pedal….any suggestions….thanks
There might be an adjustment on your mower ( may be an arm you have to pull out of one hole and place in another ) ( but if it was me I would just run it up and down a hill a few times going slow and fast over and over and see it it settle in and stops the problem.
hello, thanks for the video, I am writing to you from Italy, I have a problem with my lawn mower, with the forward gear if I am going downhill it picks up speed and you can hear a noise at the transmission (continuous beat), which it doesn't do if I go downhill in reverse. What can it depend on? Thanks Marc
Good chance that is wear on your forward side of the gears. the gears can wear / or chip on one side and still be in good shape on the other. If that is the case then what is in this video will fix the problem. Now there is a chance that you could just add a small bushing behind the gear and stop the problem ( if no chips are on the gear ) but this would just be a patch and not fix the real problem.
I have a question about the transmission on this and would like to reach out to you about a metal washer I found in the case broken in pieces. All the diagrams I see online do not show those metal washers sold separately. It looks like 2 on one side of the axel shaft near the center and diagram doesn't show other side and now I have no metal washers on the other side. Can I send you pictures?
part number on left of page, www.troybilt.com/en_US/transmissions-and-parts/drive-shaft-assembly/918-04079.html#q=13bx60tg&lang=en_US&start=197
main page of mower www.troybilt.com/en_US/prior-year-models/super-bronco--troy-bilt-riding-lawn-mower-/13BX60TG766.html#q=13bx60tg&lang=en_US&start=0?q=13bx60tg&lang=en_US&start=0&scroll=113
Great job!! Thanks for the video. Where did you find the parts to rebuild the unit. I’m having trouble locating them? Do you have the part or parts numbers
I used the model number ( it is under the hood ) and searched around on ebay and other sites but I did find that in this case I could just get the parts from Troybult at the same price ( give or take a little ) and that way I know I have the proper part. here is the site www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 I called them and they told me they didn’t sell the parts . She must have been a rookie?
I did find them though . Thanks for the info!!!
Great video! What was the first thing you removed? You went back at 1:00 -1:20 to show us the pulleys I can only assume you were removing one of them. I have one of these mowers, a 2007 Troy Bilt Super Bronco with a single-speed transaxle. It works great as I have been very methodical about maintenance. That being said I do have a concern. When in forward gear mine makes a whining noise and the faster I go the louder it gets. There are no grinding noises, no jumps, jerks or other problems. Any suggestions? I have a newer Toro ZTR and plan to sell my Troy Bilt, but I want it to reliable for the buyer.
here is a link ruclips.net/video/Csmc2SYYxgI/видео.html
So how did you take the belt off at the begining, remove the big pulley?
It has been an while since I made this video but I think I used a pair of vice grips and clamped onto one lip on the pulley edge then used that to wedge it . but you do not have to remove the pulley while it is in the mower, if you remove the bolts holding the trans-axle the the belt will come off as you drop the rear. ( do not use vice grip and hold the pulley biting the top and bottom flange at the same time as that will just crush the metal of the pulley into the 'V' of where the belt rides. )
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thank you
@@donaldjones7058 You are welcome
JUST AN UPDATE ON MTD PARTS PRICES. Bevel gear #197- 04056 $39.89/ #918-04045 clutch collar $17.04.
Not bad. let me know how the repair goes.
What did you use to clean out all the grease?
You can clean most of it out with a paper towel. then use some degreaser from the parts store ( or diesel fuel and a stiff brush WARNING FIRE HAZARD )
My exact problem. Troy-bilt pony w/manual transaxle, and I hit something and trashed the gearbox. My question: where do you buy the parts. The manual only shows the complete transaxle. It doesn't list individual gears. I can't afford to buy the whole unit.
I looked up the model number of the lawnmower then and found the parts list, from there I found the transmission number and from there I found a break down of what was in the transmission..
But you can go to lowes ( with the model number from under the hood and they can look it up for you. I found that in my case there price was a few pennies cheaper the the best deal on the internet for new parts.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thank you! Lowe's never occurred to me, even though I bought it there. Since they stopped carrying the Troy-bilt brand, they have not been good about getting anything Troy-bilt. That will be my first place to look now.
im digging the way you hung it from a strap..And you must did your research are you did that before..Thanks for the education..Roll Tide
You are welcome. Yes I have worked on lots of mechanical projects through the years
how did u get the grease out?
You can use diesel fuel and a brush or cleaners from a parts store ) remember some are flammable so be careful
ok mine is a bit different it has 1 gear and the reverse is thru a chain. it has pins for the dogs and they are all good it still pops out of gear no matter where i adjust the shifter. so i'm going to modify the linkage and move the hole out from the pivot. plus i checked the bushings they were good i greased the vari drive slack sheaves and i still have the whine so it must be just part on the system. if the mod to the pivot linkage works i will come back and say it did.
yes concrete will make a battery go weak but it on rubber tire Need a rubber mat to set batteries on Also concrete will zap the life out of your tires make em hard and crack. Need to park on rubber mats
i am doing this same job same transaxle etc etc ,,,,,BUT i cant find nothing rounded shipped broken that would give me a smoking gun ! i was hearing a hell of a grinding in forward i was sure id find pierces everywhere but NO ,,,,the only thing that is a little suspicious is those fr rev gears have a wobble on the shaft which they slide on , if i am right and i dont know yet it would make the pinion gear slip , but i dont even see worn out gears so far ? HELP LOL ,,,,going to sleep on this one for now thanks for your video ,,,,how did you clean all that grease out of there did you make a mess ,,lol cause i did and its not all clean yet ,,,,,
Lots of de greasers at the parts store but you can just use diesel fuel and a brush ( Warning fire hazard so be careful ) and yes it does sound like your gears are wore out but it could just be the side bushings You can bring the model number to Home depot and find the parts to use
Can you routine maintenance these rear axles? Like change the oil in them? I have a Troy built pony that I’m sure has never had maintenance done. Just wanting to avoid this work if possible. Thank you!
Yes that is a good idea to do some preventive maintenance, and it's not as much work as it looks. biggest thing after checking for chipped gears is to make sure the grease is still in it and not dried out. also check where the main drive intake shaft ( the one with the large pulley on top ) does not have much side ways play in it where it goes through the casing if you catch is early enough you might just be able to repace a bushing
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 great! So you still have to take the rear end out and split it apart?
@@davidd6854 Yes these do not have a fill hole... but it will let you see if there is damage while you are in there
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 ok thank you very much for the advice! I’ll be doing that soon to my mower. Seems easy enough. Do you know what type of lubricant to put back?
I’m kinda wonder mine is a really hard shift from F-N-R and doesn’t like to stop forward or reverse like when you put in a drive you have to jamb it into neutral to stop and is real hard. I was wondering if you think it’s the Ball Bearing?
Could be the ball bearing or the grease has dried out in parts or something got into you shifter arm and damaged it. make sure the leakage is normal first. the tear-down of these is not hard and it could be good just to know what it looks like inside of you case and that way you would not need to wonder about the health of it.
Thank you I’ll look into. Thank You for the videos
I did seem the shifter was a little bent. Straitened on gears looked ok. I cleaned and 00 greased the whole transaxle. The issue is still won’t stop so the break shoes are next…..but when I put it in Neutral it won’t shift eg in Forward gear when shifted to Neutral it keeps going Forward and won’t stop have to shift to Reverse to stop. When in Reverse shift to Neutral it keeps going in Rev then have to shift to Forward to stop but it takes off Forward. I’ve adjusted to shift lever helping some but not fixing it. I’m guessing the issue is in the Fwd and Rev gear possible the Gear that runs between them and the lever too. What do you think. It also really hard to shift.
Another question? What did you use to clean all the grease out with?
1- diesel fuel and a stiff brush ( even an old tooth brush will work ( of course you could start a fire using fuel if you are not careful. ) 2- a pressure washer ( but not set at high pressure,and keep in mind that the grease can spray back into your face when using a pressure washer.
3- wipe out all the grease you can with old rags then use WD-40 or carburetor cleaner spray to wash out the rest ( again be careful of back spray and fire hazards.)
4- the safest way is to wipe out the extra grease then place it in a bucket of water and Dawn dish-washing liquid and take a tooth brush to it. but it will try to rust after you finish so you would need to be ready to put some new grease on it or spray it down with 3M oil ( sewing machine oil ) to keep it safe from rusting
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Will brake cleaner work ?
@@donaldjones7058 should work as well ( but I would still remove all the extra grease first )
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 10-4 will do my best with rags firstly
@@donaldjones7058 good luck
Where can we buy these parts..what is a good source??
When I did mine I searched many places and did purchase from a couple different places but in the end I noticed that in this case it is better to just get it from the manufacture. The prices are about the same as other places but this way you know you have the real parts. www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw48-vBhBbEiwAzqrZVIIhmrbRBOabsew1HV2vLqaLJJx-m6WKQZsQfP59ki2ITcYLyQz-zBoCs04QAvD_BwE
thanks for the video but where can buy the transmission parts
Back when I purchase the parts. I did a big search on the internet and found that actually Lowe's Home Improvement who sells the stuff to begin with has good prices on the rebuilt Parts as well. And you know you're getting too genuine product
How's it holding up? Mine 50" big red horse has the rattling noise and it really just does it after the rearend starts getting hot. Last year it started and this cutting season it's starting to not pull as fast as it use to so I'm thinking the noise in rear end is the issue. Great video I'm sure my bigger version of this mower will be about the same design.
The Mower is doing great. Your mower my be slowing down because of a stretched / wore out belt. so check that as well.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Glad to hear it doing great still. Yeah I put new main belt couple years back and man it was a bear to get to I had to flip mower up on it's side and 50" garden tractor is heavy and hard to do anything with. The rattling noise started last year and with it getting hot and doing it and slowing down only after the rattling has been happening for a while makes me think it's the rearend but good tip on checking the belt. Believe it or not the 92 MTD still has even it's original drive belt.
Are you still out there? My MTD is sticking going from F to N to R. My local shop says it is a scrapper - though they refuse to take it apart. Looking at this mechanism, I am puzzled as to what could cause it to stick BOTH ways. Any thoughts before I rip it apart?
I hat a reply for you but I realized it turned into a small book :o) So I will make a video and go over this and post the link here soon ( in under 2 days
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Will look forward to that. I am no spanner king myself so your videos are brilliant.
Question..is the pulley nut clockwise or anti-clockwise to undo? I can’t tell from the vid. Does one even have to remove the pulley?
Actually, can see it is normal as you put the nut back on. Tx!
So mine is locked up and then frees up then locked up while pushing in neutral do you know what would be wrong?
I would say that a large chip broke off from a gear and is now getting stuck into the other gears as you push the mower. This is why I made sure to clean the trans-axle part as well when I rebuilt mine
Can somebody explain to me where can I find that part at that he was explaining about
Look for your model number ( should be under the hood, but might be under the seat ) and then go to Home Depot and ask then about ordering the parts for you... The parts are about the same price you could find them on Ebay and then you would know it is the right parts
Thanks for this video. I bought a 3rd hand 07 Pony. After about 5 uses, mine started slipping, or so I thought. I changed the drive belts and still the same thing. So, I'm looking at needing to do his to mine.
Just wondering if you were experiencing slipping issues also. Or what yours may have been doing. Thanks
Forward gear would not engage, because the inner 'clutch' edges were chipping off where they would meet the forward gears.
Wilkes Fountain. Thank you. 1 last question and I will leave you alone. Do you remember the number of the washer you added?
My bearing sleeves, for some reason, were applying roo much pressure when I bolted mine back up. So, essentially the only new parts I am using are the gears and collar. But, I would like to try and minimize the slack. But, mine was grinding and slipping, it wasn't as bad as yours.
Where did you find a place to order parts?@@jjhearn8015
@@fido3561 I found a local small engine place that ordered them. They were just a little cheaper than ereplacementparts.com. my tractor forum.com is where I started with my diagnosis
Jj Hearn Thanks for the reply. I ordered from replacement. didn't buy any gears just seals bushings. 55.00. Went to my local junk yard and picked a whole trans with good tires and rims for 75.00. They separate all the cars from mowers. I did ck the gears and changed the grease. Very little wear. Thanks again, take care have a great day.
What did you use to clean out the old grease?
It looks like you replaced it with a brand new unit.
I get suspicious when videos jump over steps.
Warning no matter how you clean the part be careful of anything that can cause a fire. so read the container an avoid sparks of any kind. You can use 1-a parts washer. 2 - de-greaser spray. 3- go-jo and an old toothbrush ( do not use on teeth after ). 4- carburetor cleaner. 5- Dawn foaming spray. 6- Steam cleaner ( the large type that would be used to clean things like heavy equipment. but the parts would need to be secured down and you would need to have eye and body protection to keep the junk from getting all over you from splash-back ) 7- old rag and a lot of time.
I left out the cleaning for sake of time in the video. but the fixing part was in the video.
How do u change the transmission fluid on the Troy bill horse
Pressure washing or spray some grease remover on it and wash it down with a garden hose or just wipe it down with some old rags and a few paper towels. Then buy new grease and put it back in there!
Late reply but I am just now seen your message because I was looking at the video ( I never got an alert on it ) Now as far as the fluid if it does not have a drain plug then you would need to split the housing open. I wish they all had a drain plug but that would make it too easy to work on at home.
How do you order parts?
I had went o Lowes as I found that the prices were as good as "The deal" I found on the internet, but now Home Depot has the Troybilt contract and although they can look up the parts for you some of them do not like to order them as that is not something they do ( I went and asked one about the steering bushing once and was told this )
but you can try the Troybilts website www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts
And there are lots of parts on ebay but they may be of questionable quality
How much do it cost to fix it
Been a while but I think it was around 65.00
The lawn mower shop wants 2 to 300$ to fix mine
@@garrickwelsh6793 In today's market that sounds about right ( maybe on the lower end of the scale )
How to remove the pinion gear?
i'am going to fine some eye bolts and use a winch to jack mine up
Yes that would be a better way to lift it
You see any thick metal for a hitch for that troy built? All i see is tin.. I for got a gr8 video> Hope never have to do that again.. Where getting to old for this stuff , dam back cheers man
Where you get the parts
Home depot has the troy bilt contract. I have found parts ( new ) on ebay as well, and you can check your local co-op store they can get parts and they have in stock some of the hard to find parts like the steering gear. and of course there are random places on the internet
thank u so much
You're Welcome
what do you think a repair man would charge to fix mine ? ,(the rear end out ) please
Just a guess. 200 labor and 150 parts. unless they say you need a whole new rear end ( to save themselves some work ) then they might say 500 parts and 100+ labor. Most mechanics can do a change out in under an hour, I can do one in half an hour but a rebuild takes about an hour extra and it is messy to handle the grease
Can you add links to where you buy your parts please? I need to break mine down and do this.
Well, I had tracked down a website that had great prices that seemed to beat many other websites. But then I went to Lowes ( where the mower was sold ), and they had the same parts for a few cents cheaper and the added bonus of knowing that it was the real parts. Now, this is not always the case, but it was for me. Many times you will have to pay a lot more when going back to the store that sold the item.
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thanks, I will look into that.
How do I adjust my clutch ? I push it in but it's hard to change the gears and the brake doesn't stop. I have to shut the motor off to shift into either forward or reverse ! WTF is wrong ?
Sound like you have a drive belt that not long enough and the system is staying engaged. ( or the belt has flipped over and now seem larger to the adjustable pulley, either way you would need a new belt ) it could also be that spring you talked about in the other post, if it is not mounted right it could be making the belt be over stressed ( tight )
Also check the large fan-belt wheel that goes into your transmission ( the main pulley ) and see if it has a lot of wobble back and forth, if it does then chances are the case itself is bad and there is not much that can be done for that ( nothing that would be worth the price of repair )
Interesting that the tires come off so easily
Yes Just one little bolt hold the tire on, but that is all it needs.
Thks, I've got a pony. ?Where do you get the parts from?
Well in this case I did try find good deals on the internet, but to my surprise Home Depot was able to order what I needed and I saved a couple of cent. ( I ordered the gears from Home depot )
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 Thks for the quick answer (I'm not use to getting any at all). I like the way you used your accent. 1st, keep everyone know what you doing & why you doing it. 2nd, it's entertaining like folk poetry.
I'm a retired geek & have been geeking-out on what transaxle I should get on my next used garden tractor. I just might stay with Troy-bilt & just fix the transaxle when I break it. Here's a bunch of riding mower links you might or might not like:
www.today.com/money/cheapism-best-budget-riding-mowers-6C10282306
todaysmower.com/riding-mower-brands/
todaysmower.com/the-best-lawn-yard-garden-tractor-buyers-guide/
Differences Between Riding Mowers,Lawn Tractors,Yard Tractors, and Garden Tractors. ruclips.net/video/UWyPQWHWgt8/видео.html
GT mowers: John Deere, Husqvarna, Cab cadet have better transaxles
IHT Transaxle series K (K46, K57, K58, K62, K66, K72) www.kanzaki.co.jp/en/products/transmission/iht_k_k46k57k58k62k66k72.html
5ThzEGAAUtJiHvv7LwxQR5o9od5s4ClNBH8ds6zY7FUFyIaAj_6EALw_wcB
K46 new ~$700 (rebuild kit ~$370) ; K66 new ~$1600 (rebuild kit ~$500)
Tuff Torq, Repair Kit K46 Extended 1A646099591 ($370) mulliganspartscompany.com/tuff-torq-repair-kit-k46-extended-1a646099591/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9JzoBRDjARIsAGcdIDWH0jFgC
Troy bilt transaxle rebuild. Part 1 of 2 removing the drive. ruclips.net/video/mrRFhqVAqD4/видео.html
Troy bilt transaxle rebuild. Part 2 of 2 installing the drive. ruclips.net/video/Dxq9oeCnT4s/видео.html
The Grease is called "00" grease. you can find it at Tractor supply stores and it will cost about five dollars. The official grease would cost around twenty dollars. Grease in a SQUEEZE BOTTLE
MTD Lawn Tractor Differential Troubleshooting ruclips.net/video/gPPa-XixSAw/видео.html
Parts below
Part 1 John Deere L Series Transmission Repair- Removal ruclips.net/video/YDjhAo6aZ7s/видео.html
Part 3 John Deere L Series Tractor Trans Rebuild- Open it UP-side down ruclips.net/video/mZjNErnMNYo/видео.html
1 Hydrostatic Garden Tractor transmission rebuild 1 of 4 Hydro Gear ruclips.net/video/lo5UILc52pE/видео.html
Tuff Torq K66 Hydrostatic Transaxle Rebuild - Part 1 ruclips.net/video/AVpTCGIJ1ls/видео.html
Hydro transmission K46 12 year old riding mower study ruclips.net/video/x6Ew_vSjPEA/видео.html
k46 teardown and explanation. (NO PART 2 SEE DESCRIPTION!!) ruclips.net/video/d2JTSPFvNbo/видео.html
Hydrostatic Transmission Repair. (Part 1) TUFF TORQ (Husqvarna) ruclips.net/video/CkiTH32v-Sg/видео.html
Hydrostatic Transmission Repair. (Part 2) TUFF TORQ (Husqvarna) ruclips.net/video/matO2hlN3Mc/видео.html
Hydrostatic Transmission Repair. (Part 3) TUFF TORQ (Husqvarna) ruclips.net/video/JOLqV4Qs6vY/видео.html
lawn mower transmission
Gear: Commonly referred to as manual transmissions, this type of mower uses ground speed to shift. The biggest downfall of this kind of transmission is that you’ve got to shut the tractor off to shift into an alternate range. This makes them more difficult to use, when you’ve got lots of landscape characteristics and garden beds to go around. This is a dependable transmission option, offering years of service to you.
Friction Disc: When used correctly, it’s a highly dependable transmission. It uses the forward rate of your rider to alter its gear. It’s possible for you to change on-the-go with some versions, but to get the longest lifespan out of your product, most brands recommend you shove down on the clutch or brake pedal, then shifting to the rate you need.
Automatic: This is essentially a belt and pulley system, that varies, much like the drive system in a snowmobile. This was initially used in conjunction with John Deere products. These mowers are not designed to pull heavy loads. To drive the tractor, you’ll generally use two levers. Use the F/R lever to to alter the rate you need to go. This is a dependable transmission option that can give you years of service for level yards, and pulling at loads that are really light.
CVT/IVT (Always/Infinitely Variable Transmission): MTD have attempted using the IVT Infinitrak, doubled in the Craftsman Revolution and the Cub Cadet. Consumers haven’t typically been prepared to spend the extra cash to possess this kind of transmission, however. These transmissions are certainly simpler to use. Whether or not they are fender-mounted alters the rate and direction.
Hydrostatic: Hydrostatic transmissions are more costly than mechanical transmissions, but they’re easier to use and can carry greater torque to the wheels, when compared with an average mechanical transmission.
Enclosed Double Hydrostatic: A different back wheel is controlled by each trans. This is the main reason why zero-turn mowers are more expensive compared to lawn tractors. Most of these mowers were not designed to pull loads, but simply to tote and mow.
MTD Genuine Factory Parts Riding Mower & Tractor Attachments www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Outdoor-Power-Equipment-Riding-Mower-Tractor-Attachments/MTD-Genuine-Factory-Parts/N-5yc1vZbx56Zalr
Nordic Plow easily attaches to the Cub Cadet plow assembly ruclips.net/video/3GC3n9NEMOM/видео.html
The difference between a sleeve hitch and a 3 point hitch? www.mytractorforum.com/345-backyard-round-table-faq-stickies-section/209117-difference-between-sleeve-hitch-3-point-hitch.html
ostton.info/sleeve-hitch-for-lawn-tractor/
www.humana-global.org/garden-tractor-sleeve-hitch-plans.html
Garden Tractor Sleeve Hitches www.humana-global.org/garden-tractor-sleeve-hitch.html
MTD makes Cub Cadet®, Troy-Bilt®, and Remington®, as well as Robomow®, Yard Machines®, Rover®, WOLF-Garten®, and Bolens®.
Mtd Genuine Parts Sleeve Hitch $190 www.lowes.com/pd/mtd-genuine-parts-hitch-kit/1000250741?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_-146-_-sosridingmowers-_-1000250741-_-0&kpid&k_clickID=go_1793258876_70187394213_348537320865_pla-351061847729_c_9006686&gclid=Cj0KCQjwov3nBRDFARIsANgsdoGgaVr4_ehYAXGnzzyabE0VvXTywYdzf0h8JfP2AO3CSn1rfdcpR18aAuzQEALw_wcB
Universal Electric Sleeve Hitch for Quality Lawn & Garden Tractors (~$700) www.johnnyproducts.com/J_Bucket_HTMs/UNI_Sleeve_Hitch.htm
@@fromcarstocomputers7261 I couldn't quite find the inner transaxle parts on the home depot website. ?Could you provide a link to them?
Transaxle parts
www.discountonlineparts.com/lawnmower/?c=Transmission%20Parts&b=Troy%20Bilt
www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a21b323c25/Troy-Bilt-Lawn-Mower-Transmission-Brake-Clutch-Parts
Lawn Tractor Transaxle 918-04566B (previous part 918-04566A) $~400
www.searspartsdirect.com/product/55qi0gj34q-0071-247/id-918-04566a
thinks for the info
Very Welcome
Wow your wheels just slide off. I cannot bet mine off. Had to get a new transaxle and wheels are still on old one 😠
So my mower Jerks hard when you are turning left or right but is fine when you drive in a straight line .I'm not sure why, How ever my Dad sent me this video before he passed and really hoping checking all the gears will help. If you or anyone maybe have any clues as to why it does this it would be greatly apparated. As I have no one to ask about this stuff anymore. Jean-
Sounds like it is in your trans-axle Differential area ( at 20:25 in this video ) and that's one of the worst things that can go wrong with it. also notice at 19:49 in the video the area I am touching. that feeds the power from the engine to the pulley ( not installed in video ) and the the shaft goes through the case and that can wear out the case itself and cause the shaft to wobble. you can test it by grabbing the pulley and try to move it side to side and feel for extra play. but again this is a very bad problem to have, the right machine shop could re-drill it and put a sleeve in it but at that point it's just better to get another one.
Ps make sure your tires are the same size on the rear and that they have proper pressure as well, this will not fix any damage but it will take some stress off the system. it has been a while but it seems like a new rear end like these will cost about 500 hundred dollars . Now with that said there is a chance that you are having the same problem that is in this video and it is only showing up while you are turning because the stress changes just enough to trip the problem.
I say just pull it apart / clean it up and give it a good look.. good chance you will see the problem that is the good thing about these system. ( you can check the shaft wobble without removing the drive-train just remove the belt and rock the pulley back and forth. ( speaking of belts... make sure they are not slipping and causing problems ) If it was me and it had housing damage I would just write it off
I have not worked on the Differential parts ( never had that part go bad ) so you might want to get a second option here ruclips.net/video/gPPa-XixSAw/видео.html
where did you find the parts for the transmission?
I searched the internet but on these items it was cheaper just to get them from Home depot. and that was good since I knew the part would not be some off brand. so yeah get your model number ( most of them are listed under the hood of the mower ) and tell then what you need I paid about $60.00 for everything I replaced in mine
Just pull the spring and it will come off .
Use the ratchet to lift the equipment? I AM THE EQUIPMENT
I am now weak in my old age...I am thinking about making a few workout videos so I can get this old broke down body back in shape
Yeah it will you want them elevated about a foot
True. It would not be wise to go any higher than I did in this video because then you might have oil seep by your engine rings and fill up your piston area and that could cause a problem when you hit the starter. But if you are worried about this then just remove the spark plug and give the engine a good spin ( crank-over ), and if it has oil in the piston it will spray out ( all over everything in front of it ) then put the spark plug back in, and you are good to go.
It looks like he knows what he's doing, but it's too bad he can't convey that in a video.
My first video that fixes that problem will be out in a couple of days. When I started this channel I just wanted to share some things before I got too old. I would just toss an old camera around the area and shoot. but I have been noticing that I need to show more and have better lighting, so I will stage my shots better and soon I will purchase a better camera for these videos ( I have a blackmagic pocket 4k but it has no real focus and would not be very good in this environment ) I will also be working a some intros to the page as well...right now I am trying to decide on a new name for the channel,,, or just keep the one I am using
I think you are the one who needs help not him because he explains it so any normal person can understand 😊😊😊
Single Speed Peerless,
0 to 2 in 7.8 seconds
Dude really? Next time simply remove the deck then just Jack it up and get stands under it.
Why remove the deck and tranny smart way to do it
Most of my videos show the basic way of doing a project. Some people don't have Jack stands, but there is a good chance they have a strap or even a rope or chain. But it would not be easier to remove the deck and use Jack stands. The mower can get bumped and slip off of Jack stands very easy, and since you took the time to remove the deck, you would not even have that to keep the thing from smashing down on you. The way I did it in the video looks strange, but even if you kicked it sideways, it would still be hanging on the strap. And even if it did fall it would land on the tires that have more grip than the metal Jacks so this way is faster, safer and cheaper.. but it does not look like the basic shop school way. (and I don't mean that to sound like an insult because it is not. I am just pointing out why the way I do it in the video looks off to some people. ) Now with that said I want people out there to know that the Jack stand way he talks about is the more standard way it can be used as well. Just make sure there is no danger of someone bumping into the mower while it is on Jack stands and that you do not pull too hard on the mower ( as in pulling to loosen a bolt ) while it is on Jack stands or you might end up in the E.R Room.
Of limited value because camera locations are inadequate.
This is true
H to
Please don't do a video showing people to use a tree and a rachet strap to lift any heavy machinery. Crazy. Go to Home Depot and get a proper lift. Please, and redo the video
At 2:57 I warn people this is not the safest thing to do. Plus I put the wheel / tires under it is case it did fall. But You are welcome to make your own video and show people the super safe way.
Is he speaking English?
We have no idea what you are doing with you constantly blocking the cameras view of the mower !
Anyone else puke?